L!D:^ARY  CF  PRihiCETON 


THEOLOGICAL  SEMINARY 


DS2b8    .P4  1843 

Perkins,   Justin,  1805-1869. 

Residence  of  eight  years  in 

Persia,   among  the  Nestorian 

Christians   :   with  notices  of 

the 

Muhammedans . 


0 


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in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/residenceofeightOOperk 


MUHAMMi:0  SHMI.KINMV  Of  P^RSJA.. 

JTzQSi  learned  men  rJiusiie  held,  m  honor 


RESIDENCE 


or 


EIGHT  YEARS  IN  PERSIA, 

AMONG 

;THE  NESTORIAN  CHRISTIANS; 

WITH  KOTICES  OF 

THE  MUHAMMEDANS. 


BY  REV.  JUSTIN  PERKINS. 


ANDOVER: 
PUBLISHED  BY  ALLEN,  MORRILL  &  WARDWELL. 

NEW  YORK  :  M.  W.  DODD. 


BOSToy : 


TAPPAW  AND  DENNET;  CROCKER  AND  BREWSTER.  NEW  HAVEM 

A.  H.  MALTBY. — PHILADELPHIA  :   PERKINS  AND  PPRVE3. 


CINCINNATI  :   G.  L.  WEED. 


1843. 


LiBRARY  OF  PRINCETON 


OGiCAL 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1843,  by 

ALLEN,  MORRILL  AND  WARDWELL, 

in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  tJie  District  Court  of  Massachusetts. 


TO  A  MOTHER, 

WHO,  IN  WIDOWHOOD,  AGE,  INFIRMITY  AND  DEPENDENCE, 
GAVE  HER  SON  TO  THE  MISSIOKARY  WORK, 
THIS  VOLUME  13  AFFECTIONATELY  INSCRIBED  BY 

THAT  SON. 


PREFACE. 


It  never  appeared  to  me  a  reality,  that  I  might  again  tread  the 
soil  of  my  native  country,  greet  kindred  and  acquaintances  and 
worship  with  them  in  the  great  congregation,  until  we  had  embark- 
■ed  at  Smyrna,  on  our  return  to  the  United  States.    While  the  pros- 
pect could  not  be  otherwise  than  grateful,  it  was  not  wholly  unat- 
tended with  embarrassment.    How  should  the  missionary,  so  long 
immured  in  the  deep  darkness  of  benighted  Persia,  and  accustomed 
to  the  use  of  strange  languages,  meet  again  the  noon-day  light  of  a 
christian  land,  and  attempt  to  address  the  churches  in  his  native 
tongue,  so  many  years  unused  by  him  for  such  a  purpose  ?  Re- 
collecting that  primitive  missionaries,  whose  footsteps  I  had  imper- 
fectly endeavored  to  follow,  when,  in  one  case,  brought  back  by 
Providence  to  the  place  from  whence  they  had  been  recommended 
to  the  work  which  they  fulfilled,  "  rehearsed  all  that  God  had  done 
with  them  and  how  he  had  opened  the  door  of  faith  unto  the  Gen- 
tiles," I,  too,  hastily  glanced,  in  reminiscence,  over  my  missionary 
course ;  but  my  retrospect,  instead  of  a  few  months,  like  theirs,  em- 
braced a  period  of  between  eight  and  nine  years.    And  on  referring 
to  my  notes  to  select  a  few  incidents,  I  found  the  mass,  which  had 
been  gradually  accumulating  on  my  hands,  during  my  residence  in 
Persia,  so  large  and  miscellaneous,  that  it  was  no  easy  matter  to 
make  such  a  selection.    Thus  engaged,  the  idea  occurred  to  me,  of 
copying  out  portions  of  those  notes  for  future  use ;  and  the  rather, 
as  I  had  no  particular  employment  laid  out  for  the  voyage.  The 
result  is  this  volume,  which  is  made  up  of  a  simple  record  of  facts 


vi 


PREFACE. 


and  observations,  given,  to  a  considerable  extent,  as  they  were  ori- 
ginally recorded,  amid  the  scenes  whence  they  were  drawn. 

I  copied  about  one-fourth  of  the  volume,  on  our  homeward  pas- 
sage. My  circumstances,  after  reaching  this  country,  could  hard- 
ly have  been  more  unfavorable  for  prosecuting  the  task,  remain- 
ing, as  I  did,  but  a  day  or  two  in  a  place,  with  two  exceptions 
of  a  week,  during  the  first  nine  months,  and  being  called  upon, 
almost  constantly,  to  attend  public  meetings,  in  company  with  the 
Nestorian  bishop  who  came  with  me.  I  have  sometimes  writ- 
ten an  hour  at  a  public  house,  while  waiting  for  a  stage-coach ;  at 
other  times,  in  the  cabin  of  a  steamer,  among  scores  of  passengers ; 
and  have  often  revised  my  manuscript,  while  travelling  in  rail-road 
cars.  As  the  labor,  however,  has  been  mostly  that  of  fiJling  out 
notes  previously  on  hand,  I  have,  of  course,  felt  the  inconvenience 
of  these  circumstances,  less  than  if  my  matter  had  been  wholly 
unprepared. 

While  my  work  in  Persia  has  been  principally  among  the  Nesto- 
rians,  who,  together  with  our  mission  to  them,  are  the  prominent 
subjects  of  this  volume,  my  intercourse  with  the  Mohammedans 
of  that  country,  has  been  habitually  familiar ;  and  notices  of 
that  class  are  introduced  almost  as  extensively  as  of  the  native 
Christians.  And  though  my  object  and  labors  have  been  strictly 
missionary,  my  observations  have  been  general,  and  such  also  to  a 
considerable  extent,  are  the  contents  of  this  volume.  It  would 
have  been  easy  to  fill  it,  from  so  rich  a  field  as  Persia,  with 
matter  suited  to  the  taste  of  the  mere  scholar.  Indeed,  the  Ameri- 
can or  Englishman,  in  that  country,  meets,  in  the  Persian  lan- 
guage, so  many  familiar  acquaintances,  that  he  can  hardly  avoid 
dwelling  on  its  resemblance  to  his  own,  a  prototype  of  which  it  so 
clearly  is, — or  more  immediately  of  the  German ;  and  he  is  little 
less  delighted  with  the  similarity  of  their  construction  than  the 
coincidence  of  common  words.  It  would  also  have  been  easy  to 
prepare  the  volume  for  the  use  of  the  civil  historian  :  or,  make 
it  a  collection  of  general  statistics.  But  I  have  intended  rather 
to  combine  miscellany  and  incident  with  accurate,  missionary  and 
genera]  information,  in  the  hope  of  thus  rendering  the  work  more  ac- 
ceptable to  different  classes  of  readers,  and  more  useful  to  the  cause 
•which  it  primarily  seeks  to  promote.    From  that  vast  and  varied 


PREFACE. 


vii 


forest,  in  which  I  have  so  long  lived  and  ranged,  I  have  desired  to 
cull  a  few  Jeaves,  of  all  the  different  colors,  descriptions  and  sizes, 
and  so  group  them  together,  that  the  reader  may  see  thetn  in  some 
measure  as  the  author  saw  them,  and  be  furnished  with  a  correct 
miniature  of  that  forest ;  while  I  would  keep  him  constantly  remind- 
ed, however,  of  the  great  object  that  carried  me  thither,  and  inform- 
ed respecting  the  prpsperity  and  progress  of  that  object. 

Some  brief  portions  of  the  Journal,  have  appeared  in  the  form  of 
extracts,  in  the  Missionary  Herald ;  but  not  enough,  it  is  believed, 
to  impair  the  interest  of  their  perusal,  as  here  introduced  in  a  con- 
nected, modified  and  fuller  form.  The  narrative  style  is  mostly 
adopted  for  reasons  that  will  appear  in  the  perusal.  The  fact  that 
no  American  was  ever  a  resident  in  that  ancient  and  celebrated 
country  before  me,  and  the  position  which  the  Nestorian  church 
now  occupies  in  the  sympathies  of  Christendom,  and  its  relation  to 
the  prospective  extension  of  the  Redeemer's  kingdom,  are  circum- 
stances which  will,  perhaps,  tend  to  impart  a  somewhat  special  in- 
terest to  this  volume. 

Every  writer  on  Eastern  countries  feels  the  difficulty  of  being  ac- 
curate, where  there  is  so  little  intellectual  discipline  and  still 
less  moral  principle.  This  volume  is,  however,  so  much  the  result 
of  personal  observation,  as  to  be  little  affected  by  those  diffi- 
culties, except  that  a  growing  conviction,  that  the  statements  of 
orientals  are  not  in  general  to  be  trusted,  has  made  me  the  more 
careful  to  become  personally  acquainted  with  the  facts,  in  all  cases. 
Mar  Yohannan,  moreover,  having  been  with  me,  in  this  country, 
during  my  preparation  of  the  matter  for  the  press,  I  have  referred 
to  him,  on  any  points  respecting  which  I  had  doubt.  I  do  not,  af- 
ter all,  claim  for  the  work  entire  freedom  from  errors. 

The  accompanying  map  is  constructed,  to  a  considerable  extent, 
from  personal  observations  ;  but  much  assistance  has  been  derived 
from  the  map  of  Smith  and  Dwight  and  from  that  of  Mr.  South- 
gate.  For  its  successful  execution,  I  am  indebted  to  Mrs.  Alon2o 
Gray  of  Andover.  A  difficulty  is  often  felt  by  readers,  in  using 
maps  of  detached  interior  regions,  with  only  the  aid  of  degrees  of 
latitude  and  longitude,  in  the  absence  of  prominent  and  familiar  ob- 
jects, to  fix  the  relative  situation.  To  meet  this  difficulty,  I  have 
placed  the  corners  of  the  map  upon  the  well  known  waters  of  the 


PREFACE. 


Mediterranean,  Black  and  Caspian  Seas,  and  the  Persian  Gulf; 
points  that  naturally  embrace  the  countries  in  which  I  have  travel- 
led and  the  scenes  of  our  missionary  operations. — The  colored 
plates  were  originally  drawn  by  a  Persian  artist,  under  my  super- 
vision. They  will  impart  a  very  good  idea  of  the  varieties  of  cos- 
tume and  the  general  appearance  of  the  respective  classes.  The 
portrait  of  the  Shah  of  Persia  is  copied  from  one  engraved  in  En- 
gland, and  that  of  Mar  Yohannan,  from  one  taken  in  this  country. 
— The  eastern  view  of  Mt.  Ararat  was  sketched  by  Mrs.  Perkins, 
and  the  western,  by  myself. — The  device,  on  the  back  of  the  vol- 
ume, is  the  emblem  of  the  Trinity,  as  mentioned  on  page  384,  and 
the  name,  trinity  (Tlitayootha,)  in  the  Nestorian  character  of  the 
Syriac  language. — A  table  of  contents  is  prefixed,  and  a  glossary  of 
foreign  words  is  added  at  the  close  of  the  volume. — A  list  of  the 
engravings,  and  tables  of  marks  of  accent  and  pronunciation,  the 
measures  of  distance  and  the  names  and  value  of  Persian  coin,  are 
supplied,  after  the  table  of  contents. — The  meaning  of  foreign  words 
and  phrases  is  given  in  the  text,  where  they  occur  in  the  first  in- 
stance, and  in  some  cases,  repeatedly. — The  marks  of  accent  and 
pronunciation  of  foreign  words  are  generally  supplied,  though  not 
in  all  cases,  throughout  the  volume;  and  if  there  be  any  doubt, 
where  they  are  omitted,  such  words  will  be  found  properly  marked, 
as  well  as  defined,  by  reference  to  the  glossary. 

I  am  happy  to  acknowledge  mj  obligation  to  the  Rev.  R.  Ander- 
son, D.  D.,  one  of  the  respected  secretaries  of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M., 
and  to  my  esteemed  friend  and  former  instructor,  the  Rev.  Prof. 
N.  W.  Fiske,  of  Amherst  College,  for  valuable  advice,  in  relation 
to  the  preparation  of  this  work.  But  if  it  shall  prove  acceptable  to 
the  reader,  it  will  be  especially  owing  to  the  unwearied  aid  of  another 
esteemed  college  teacher  and  friend,  the  Rev.  Prof.  B.  B.  Edwards, 
of  the  Theological  Seminary  at  Andover,  who  has  kindly  taken  the 
trouble  to  revise  my  copy  and  assist  me  in  correcting  the  proofs, 
and  whose  familiar  acquaintance  with  oriental  countries  and  sub- 
jects, and  experience  as  an  author  and  an  editor,  are  of  course  a 
sufficient  warrant,  that  no  work  of  the  kind  could  pass  under  his 
supervision,  without  material  benefit. 

The  preparation  of  the  volume,  with  all  the  circumstances  of  in- 
convenience attending  it,  has  been  to  me,  a  pleasant  task, — living 


PREFACE. 


over,  as  it  has  led  me  to  do,  several  of  my  past  years,  fraught  with 
reminiscences  at  once  painfully  interesting  and  delightful.  And 
carrying  it  through  the  press  has  been  particularly  agreeable,  on 
this  favored  hill  of  Zion,  amid  the  hallowed  recollections  of  theo- 
logical study  and  endeared  companions  of  by-gone  years,  and  often 
greeted  by  the  familiar  countenances  of  venerated  instructors.  Nor 
should  I  omit  to  mention  my  intercourse  with  the  gentlemanly  and 
obliging  publishers,  as  a  circumstance  that  has  contributed  not  a 
little  to  render  my  task  agreeable.  How  they  have  performed  their 
part  of  the  work,  it  will  bear  testimony  for  itself 

The  volume  is  submitted  to  the  public  with  diffidence,  but  with 
the  prayer  and  hope,  that  it  may  subserve  the  interests  of  that  cause 
which  has  given  it  existence,  and  to  which  the  life  of  the  author  is 
devoted.  My  task  being  finished,  I  now  turn  my  thoughts,  and 
hope  soon  again  to  turn  my  face,  toward  the  distant  clime  and  peo- 
ple of  my  adoption. 

Andovtr,  Jan.  1843. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

General  Skbtch  of  the  Nestorian  Christians. 

The  Nestorlans,  a  small  remnant, — not  destitute  of  interest. — Formerly  nu- 
merous.— Missionary  zeal. — Lineal  origin. — Conversion  to  Christianity. — 
Origin  as  a  christian  sect. — Location. — The  Koordish  mountains. — Oroo- 
miah. — The  wild  character  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  mountains. —  Probable 
number  of  the  Nestorians. — Language. — Literature. — General  character. — 
Religious  character. — Ecclesiastical  organization. — Hopes  of  tlieir  reforma- 
tion.— Papal  efforts  to  proselyte  them. — Importance  of  their  receiving  effi- 
cient aid  from  Protestant  Christians. — Their  prospective  influence  in  the 
spread  of  the  gospel  and  the  conversion  of  the  world,     .       .       Page  1 

CHAPTER  11. 

Origin  and  Commencement  of  the  Mission  to  the  Nestorians. 

Report  of  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight. — Appointment  to  the  field. — Mission- 
ary Instructions. — The  Board  a  Society  for  observation. — Location  of  the 
mission. — First  objects  of  attention. — The  Scriptures  the  standard. — Need 
of  wisdom  from  above. — The  Miihainmedans  and  the  Papists. — The  church 
will  awake. —  Severe  sickness. — Embarkation,       ....  25 

CHAPTER  m. 

Voyage  to  Malta. 

Disagreeable  circumstances  of  a  voyage. — Its  advantages  to  missionaries. — 
Circumstances  of  our  embarkation. — Journal  at  sea. — Sea-sickness  of  the 
ladies. — Equinoctial  storm. — My  rapid  recovery. — The  porpoises. — Com- 
motion in  the  cabin. — The  Sabbath. — Sunset. — Moon-light  at  sea. — Amer- 
icans unfit  for  cabin-boys. — Economizing  time, — The  black-fish. — The  land 
bird. — The  turtle.—The  dolphins  .-Exercise. — Phosphoretic  gems. — Month- 
ly concert. — A  fair  wind. — Reading  Abercrombie. — Teaching  the  ladies 
Greek. — The  pilot-fish. — View  of  the  Western  Islands. — Reproof  of  the 
cabin-boy  for  swearing. — Profaneness  of  seamen. — Superstition  and  igno- 
rance of  the  cabin-boy  and  cook. — Mother  Carey's  chickens. — First  sight  of 
the  Old  World. — Shores  of  Gibraltar  Straits. — Pillars  of  Hercules. — Lands 
of  darkness. — Feeling  of  increased  security  .-Recent  disaster. — Excursion  in 
the  boat. — Sunrise  at  sea.— Island  of  Galata.— Site  of  ancient  Carthage. — Is- 
land of  Zembla  — Island  of  Pantalaria. — Arrival  at  Malta. — The  pilot. — The 
tow-boats. — Quarantine. — Pratique. — La  Valetta. — Cleanliness  of  the  city  .— 
Cheapness  of  living.— Splendid  churches.— Number  of  beggars  and  priests. — 
Strength  of  the  capital. — Troops. — Influence  of  the  government.— Missiona- 
ries of  the  London  and  Church  Missionary  Societies. — Preparation  of  the 
Neetorian  spelling-book,   35 


xii 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

VOTAGE  FROM  MaLTA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Passage  in  a  Greek  vessel. — Meetingr  an  acquaintance. —  Regulations  on  board. 
— Animals  on  board. — Cargo. — Southern  extremity  of  Greece. — Timidity  of 
Greek  seamen. — A  conversation  with  the  captain. — Greek  estimation  of 
American  character. — Infidelity  among  the  Greeks. — Went  on  shore. — The 
cabin-boy's  spelling-book. -Double  Cape  Malea.— Notice  of  the  islands.— Ar- 
rival at  Syra.— Description  of  the  place.— Meeting  with  missionary  friends. — 
Services  at  the  Greek  church. — The  schools. — A  Greek  baptism.— Atlie- 
neum  and  Lyceum. — The  upper  town. — A  severe  storm. — Voyage  con- 
tinued.— Islands  ravaged  by  the  Turks. — The  Dardanelles. — Mohammedan 
summons  to  prayers. — The  Marmora. — Worship  of  saints. — Arrival  at  Con- 
stantinople.— First  impressions  of  the  city. — Going  on  shore,    .      ,  52 

CHAPTER  V. 
Constantinople,  and  Voyage  thence  to  Trebizond. 

The  interior  appearance  of  Constantinople. — Object  of  our  temporary  stay 
there. — Armenian  reformer. — New  Year's  day. — Commodore  Porter. — The 
annual  concert. -Hohannes  and  Senacherim. -Bazars. — Hyppodrome. — The 
Suit-in — Armenian  funeral. — Lyceum. — A  conflagration. — The  Bosphorus. 
Another  conflagration. — Turkish  firemen. — Small  value  attached  to  life. — 
An  American  wedding. — Attendance  of  the  SuU&n  at  the  mosk. — Boats. — 
Turkish  schools  in  the  barracks. — Chaldcedon. — Scutari. — The  great  cem- 
etery.— E.xcursion. — Boyuk  Dereh. —  Giant's  mountain. — The  Mohamme- 
dan Joshua. — Intelligence  from  Persia. — Letters  from  Sir  John  Campbell 
and  Mr.  Haas. — Death  of  the  Prince  Royal. — Leaving  Constantinople. — 
Beating  up  the  Bosphorus. — The  vessel  run  aground. — Capt.  Grey. — Dan- 
gers of'  the  Black  Sea. — Expedients  of  the  natives  to  procure  a  fair  wind. 
— Mutual  hostilities  of  the  Mi5hammedan  sects. — Reverence  for  the  Koran. 
Turkish  and  Persian  ideas  of  the  New  World. — Pilgrimages. — MCihamme- 
dan  devotions." Metamorphosis  of  the  interpreter. — View  of  Trebizond  from 
the  sea. — Arrival. — Increased  communication  with  Constantinople,    .  70 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Trebizond,  and  Journey  thence  to  Erzroom. 

European  residents. — Situation. — Population.— Climate. — The  French  con- 
sul.— Rudeness  of  the  people. — The  Armenian  priests. — Sabbath. — Arme- 
nian school.  — New  Testaments. — Shorter  route.  —  Travelling  accoutre- 
ments.—Arrangement  of  the  loads.— Their  size. — Mrs,  Perkins  s  saddle. — 
The  three  different  routes.- Leaving  the  city. -Rural  scenery  .-Valley-lords. 
Scripture  illustrations. — Riding  in  the  night.— Lodging  under  a  tent. — Ja- 
vislik— Provisions. — Ascending  a  mountain. — Kara-kap^in. —  Sublime  scen- 
ery.—Lofty  table-land.— Madden.— Kroom.— The  Krooml^e.—Hamlets  in 
the  glen.— Apprehension  from  the  Liz. — Steep  descent. — Armoot. — Te- 
keh.— Its  minaret.— The  caravan  system— The  Sabbath.— Primitive  habits 
and  occupations  of  the  people.— Their  degradation.— Duplicity  of  the  mule- 
teer.—Roads.— Flowers.— Turkish  taste.— Prejudice  against  the  Russians, 
and  ret^ard  for  Americans.  —  Cowardice  of  Armenians.  —  Agriculture. — 
Utensifs.— Dread  of  the  troops.— Enter  Armenia.— Stages  shorter  in  sum- 
mer than  in  winter.— Baibdot.— Attentions  from  the  Pasha.— Valley  of  the 
JGrokh.— Mining  village. -Soda-spring.— Plain  of  Erzroom.— Sabbath.— 
Arrival  at  Erzroom,  


coNTENxs.  xiii 

CHAPTER  Vir. 

Erzkoom,  and  Journtt  thence  to  Erivak. 

Retrospect. — Antiquity  of  Erzroom. — Ruins.— Coiumerce. — Russian  Inva- 
sion.— Persian  agent.— Arrival  of  the  English  party  from  Fersia. — Koord- 
isli  disturbances. — Embarrassed  circumstances. — The  Pashi's  carriage. — 
Changes  of  customs  and  costumes  required  in  Persia.— Troops.— Expedi- 
tion against  the  Koords. — Face  of  tlie  country  between  Erzroomand  Persia. 
— Armenian  villages.  —  Journey  resumed.— Thunder  storm— Hassan-kU- 
Idah. — Conference  with  the  PashSi. — Change  of  route. — Lost  son  restored. — 
A  forest. — Kara. — Fertility  of  its  plain. — Wedding-day. — Crossing  the 
boundary. — GOmry. — Quarantine. — Embarrassments  there  and  at  the  cus- 
tom-house.— Boorish  conduct  of  the  custom-house  officers.— Detention  of 
effects. — Journey  resumed. — Arrival  at  Erivin. — Mt.  Ararat,  111 

CHAPTER  Vni. 

JoDRNEy  FROM  EriVAN  TO  TaBREEZ. 

Town  of  ErivAn. — Plain. — Valley  of  the  Arris. — Armenian  priest.— English 
credit. — Evening  view  of  Ararat. — St.  Gregory's  prison. — Separation  from 
our  tent. — Takvdor's  cowardice. — Great  heat. — Nakchevin.— River  Arrus. 

Detention. — Embarrassed  situation. — Liberation. — Russian  inhospitality  

Letter  from  the  English  ambassador. — Takt-raw^n. — Narrow  escape —Mo- 
rknd. — Dr.  Riach. — Recollections  of  Martyn. — Arrival  at  Tabreez.~Mrs. 


Perkins's  distressing  sickness  Kindness  of  English  friends. — Female  for- 
titude,  129 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Tabreez. 

Persia. — Boundaries. —  Provinces. —  Names. — Physical  features.  —  Mines. — 


Forests. — Azerbijin. — Tabreez. — Meaning  of  the  name. — Situation. — Ele- 
vation and  climate. — Population. —  Remnants  of  antiquity. — Commerce, — 
Manufactures. — Armory. — Personal  appearance  of  the  Persians,  their  cha- 
racter.— Civilization  in  Tabreez. — Advantages  as  a  missionary  station. — 
The  different  classes. — The  houses  in  Persia.— Luxury.— Traveling  in 
Georgia. — Bribes. — Character  of  the  ofBcers  in  that  country. — The  heir- 
apparent. — His  character  and  prospects. — Exhibition  of  throwing  bombs. — 
Appearance  of  the  heir-apparent. — Reports  of  the  Nestorians  becoming 
Catholics. — Distribution  of  the  Scriptures  among  Papists. — Mr.  Haas's  let- 
ter to  the  Patriarch,  143 

CHAPTER  X. 

Journet  to  Oroomiah. 

Object  of  the  journey. — Preparations. —  Companions. — Ali  ShSh.— Mirage. — 
Funeral. — Lodgings. — Ideas  of  America. — Persian  politeness.— Trade. — 
Abraham's  contract. — Presents. — Lake. — Deezeh-khal{;el. — Kuza-kh^lndh. 
Massacre  of  Armenians. — Islands  of  the  lake. — Kara-tapA. — Salmis. — 
Khosrovd. — Georgian  prince.— Civility  of  the  Catholic  bishop  — Crossing 
the  mountains  by  night. — A  young  Nestorian  adventurer.— Sleepiness, 
remedy  for  it. — Gavalan. — Reception. — The  Patriarch  Elias. — The  bishop's 
offer  to  go  to  Tabreez. — Decision  of  the  question  by  lot. — Plain  of  Ordo- 
miah. — City  of  Ordomiah. — Arrival. — Lodgings. — Church.— Mar  Gabriel. 
Visit  to  the  Patriarch  Eliaa. — Gratifying  reception,  ,  166 


xiv 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Visit  at  Oroomiah  anp  Return  to  Tabreez. 

A  visit  from  Mar  Elias. — His  reputed  learning. — The  governor. — The  Mool- 
Iths. — Present  from  the  governor.— Evening  devotions. — Gardens. — Beau- 
tiful scenery. — Priest  Abraham. — Pious  talk. — A  little  boy. — Ardishdi. — 
Another  visit  with  the  Patriarch. — Dflsh-oghdl. — Sheitin-abid. — Dole. — 
Sflldooz. — Neghadeh. —  Persian  prince. — Votive  pledges. — The  Koords. — 
Koordish  tribes  and  dialects. — Missionary  efforts  for  Ihem. —  Soda-springs. 
— Village  on  fire. — Prairie  on  fire. — Russian  officer  murdered. — Chilleek. 
— Yoolgilnlee. —  Presents  from  the  field. — Maragha. — Tomb  of  Hoolakoo 
KhAn. — Apprehensions  of  the  people. — Koordish liorseman. — Marble  quar- 
ries.—Deh-khorgin. — Arrival  at  Tabrfeez. — The  bishop  and  priest  at  our 
table.— At  our  devotions,       .      .      •  182 

CHAPTER  Xn. 
Residence  at  Tabreez. 

Death  of  the  king. — A  usurper. — Disorders. — Solitary  situation. — Presents 
from  Oroomiah. — The  young  king's  approach  to  the  capital. —  Surrender  of 
rivals. —  Coronation. — Means  by  which  he  secured  tlie  throne. — Aid  of  the 
English  ambassador. — General  Lindsley. — The  bishop's  interpretation  of 
parables. — The  press  in  Persia. — Letter  of  the  bishop  and  priest. — Festival 
of  Noo-rdse. — Last  rival  conquered. — Bishop  and  priest  visit  their  friends. — 
Corpses  carried  to  KerbuU. — Persian  prince. — Italian  play-actors. — Fire- 
works.— Celebration  of  Moharrfem. — Return  of  the  bishop  and  priest. — Pre- 
servation of  tears. — Syriac  teachers. — Nestorian  ideas  of  the  firmanent. — 
Mr,  Haas's  Mflhammedan  school,   200 

CHAPTER  Xni. 
Arrival  of  Associates. 

Jourrtey  to  Erzriom. — Koords. — Meeting  associates. — Plague  and  cholera. — 
Desirableness  of  a  mission  at  ilrzrdom. — Nevr  English  ambassador. — Eng- 
lish protection. — Russian  policy  towards  Protestant  missions. —  German 
mission  at  Shoosha. — Colony  at  Carrdss. — Converts  of  the  Greek  church. 
—  Ignorance  of  Russian  peasants. — New  Ukase. — Turkish  language. — Nes- 
torian  priest  teaching  English. — Preparation  for  removal  to  Oroomiah. — 
Intemperance  in  Persia. — Means  of  intoxication. — Prevalence  among  all 
classes. — Its  effects. — Difficulties  in  the  way  of  its  removal,  212 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Removal  to  Oroomiah. 

Leaving  Tabreez. — Annoyance  at  our  lodgings. — Arrival  at  GavalSn. — Wel- 
come from  the  Nestorians. — Ride  in  the  rain. — Arrival  at  Oroomiah. — At- 
tention from  the  governor. — The  bishop  and  priest. — Presentation  of  a  boy. 
— Persian  compliments. — Visit  to  the  governor. — A  Nestorian  wedding. — 
Wine  in  Persia. — Wedding  fees. — Extract  from  the  marriage  service. — 
Visit  to  Mar  Gabriel. — His  rndeneSs. — A  priest  from  the  mountains.— Need 
of  rrtore  laborers. — Need  of  a  Press,  227 

CHAPTER  XV. 
State  of  the  Field. 
Religious  character  and  condition  of  the  people. — Spiritually  dead. — Tena- 
cious of  forms. — Immotalities  Apologies  for  it. — Education. — School- 


CONTENTS.  XV 


room. — Dedication. — Commencement  of  the  semiEary. — Mar  Joseph. — 
Sabbath  service. — Fasts. — An  unreasonable  mother. — Priest  Yohannan. — 
Evening  prayer-meeting's. — Scripture  interpretation. — Commencement  of 
translatmg  the  Bible. — Abstinence  from  wine. — Apprehension  of  danger. — 
Mohammedans  of  Or6omiah.—Loot6e.— Efforts  of  English  gentlemen  to  pro- 
mote our  security. — Letters  from  Dr.  Riach  and  Sir  John  Campbell,  246 


CHAPTER  XVL 

Journal  :  March — Jdlt,  1836. 

Visit  from  the  German  missionaries. — Priest  Zadoc. — Communion  service. — 
Letter  to  the  Patriarch. — Duplicity  of  Persian  character.— Saudoc,  a  second 
H<ij6e  Baba. — Examination  of  the  seminary. — Visit  to  Ggog-tapji. — Mit- 
hammedan  wedding. — Persian  ease  of  manners. — Entertainment. — Piliv. — 
Recreations. — Summer  palace. — Bastinadoing. — Mar  Gabriel. — The  flam- 
ingo.— Mar  Joseph. — Visit  from  Mr.  Merrick.—  Beautiful  scenery. — Mounds 
of  the  fire-worshippers. — Traditions  of  St.  Thomas. — Burning  of  a  Jew. — 
Letter  from  the  Patriarch. — MQhamraed's  teacher. — Seizure  of  a  Nestorian 
girl. — Jesuit  efforts. — Ride  to  Barandooz. — Taxes — .Sources  of  revenue. — 
Oppressive  nobility,  262 


CHAPTER  XVn. 

JouRNAi,:  August — December,  1836. 

Public  celebrntion. — Royal  bride. — Female  decorations. — Education. — Hatred 
of  the  Nestorians  towards  the  Mohammedans. — Mock-lamentation. — Sick- 
ness.— Unhealthy  climate. — Favor  from  government. — 'Prince's  nrmSn. — 
Seclusion  of  females. — Visit  to  villages  — Attack  by  the  Lootee. — Punish- 
ment inflicted  on  the  assailant  by  the  governor. — Increased  security  in 
consequence. — Wedding  of  the  g'overnor^  son.. — Polygamy. — Mdhamnie- 
dan  marriages. — Electrical  machme. — Mohammedan  devotions. — Science 
in  Persia. — Metaphysics. — Alchemy. — Freemasonry. — Seven  heavens. — 
Dunka. — Class  in  Hebrew. — Oppression  of  the  Jews. — Expectation  of  the 
Messiah. — Hostility  between  the  Nestorians  and  tlie  Jews,  .  282 


CHAPTER  XVni. 

Journal:  January — June,  1837. 

School  of  the  Persian  prince. — A  clerical  party. — Malek  Mansoor  Meerza. — 
A  Papal  emissary. — Discussions. — Appeal  to  a  MoolUh — Result  of  the 
discussions. — A  bishop's  turban  stolen. — Priest  Zadoc. — His  vanity  to  be 
thought  learned. — Visit  from  a  H^ijee. — Journey  to  Eriroom. — Mar  Yo- 
hannan's  decision  to  go  with  me. — Oolih. — Aged  priest. — Khoy. — Cara- 
vanserdi. — Koordish  churn. —  Mt.  Ararat,  ascent  impracticable. —  Ge- 
noese fortifications. — Mar  Yohannan's  colloquial  powers. — Yezideez. — Ar- 
menian Papists. — White  birches. — Arrival  at  Erzr6om.— Meeting  associates. 
— Return  to  Ordomiah. — Meeting  the  German  missionaries. — Reasons  for 
their  leaving  Persia. — Kind  of  laborers  needed. — Call  for  indirect  labor 
among  the  Mahammedans,  "300 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Journal:  July — December,  1837. 
Fourth  of  July. — Visit  from  Dr.  Riach. — Declamation  in  the  Seminary. — 
Visit  from  Mr.  Southgate. — The  "  milky  way." — Primitive  customs,  among 
the  Nestorians. — Illustrations  of  the  Bible. — Grape  harvest. — Wojpen  labor- 
ing in  the  field. — Excursion  to  Ardishili. — Earthen  ware  factory. — Bathing 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


in  the  lake. — Royal  orders. — Note  from  the  Prince. — Letter  of  Mar  Yohan- 
nan  to  the  Syrian  Christians — Statistics. — Excitement. — Visit  from  the 
Prince. — His  schools. —  Friendly  intercourse. — Dining  with  the  Prince. — 
Peter  Parley's  Geography. — Nestorian  ideas  of  his  wi?dom. — Nestorian  lit- 
erature,    '  316 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Journal  :  Jancart — September,  1838. 
Influence  of  Scripture  tracts. — Donation  to  the  Tract  Society. — Pecuniary  aid 
from  Englisli  gentlemen. — Preaching  to  the  Nestorians. — Revival  of  mis- 
sionary efforts. — Nestorian  Chronology. — Ornaments  worn  by  Nestorian 
females. — Apprehension  of  the  Nestorians  that  we  should  send  their  chil- 
dren to  the  New  World. — Female  school. — Interesting  traits  of  character. 
Spiritual  death. — An  ordination. — The  roya]  campaign  against  Herilt. — An- 
tiquities.— Withdrawal  of  the  English  from  Persia. — A  sudden  death. — Mo- 
hammedan mourning  and  funeral. — Baptism  of  missionary  children. — Try- 
ing circumstances  of  the  children  of  missionaries. — Objects  of  deep  interest 
and  of  hope. — They  should  be  the  subjects  of  fervent  prayer  among  the 
churches,  330 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Journal  :  October — December,  1838. 
Political  uncertainties. — Want  of  pecuniary  means. — Papal  emissaries.— Rev. 
Wm.  Glen. — Catholic  deacon. — Receiving  ahundred  fold.— Deacon  Joshua. 
— Chaldean  vagrants  in  England. — Mar  Joseph's  excursion  into  Georgia. — 
Encouraging^ contrast — Conservative  policy  to  be  pursued  by  the  mission- 
aries to  the  Eastern  cliurches. — Zeal  for  forms. — Intercourse  of  Episcopa- 
lians with  Mar  Yohannan. — Article  from  the  Churchman. — Mar  Yohan- 
nan's  reply. — Christian  fellowship. — Harmony  among  missionary  societies 
and  their  missionaries,   346 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Journal  :  January — June,  1839. 

Death  of  Mrs.  Grant. — Letter  to  the  ambassador. — Letter  from  him. — 
Russian  protection. —  Changes  at  Tabrfeez. — Armenian  reformation. — 
Orders  from  the  king. — Concern  of  Mar  Joseph. — Mar  El ias  reading  the 
epistles. — Health-retreat  at  Gaval^n. — Interruption. — Abuse  of  Mar  Yo- 
hannan.— Imprisonment  of  his  father. — Extortion. — Mar  Sergis. — Care  of 
lunatics. — A  Koordish  PashA. — Visit  from  him. — Persian  prince  and  nobles. 
— European  costume. — Sign  of  the  Trinity. — John's  question  book,  368 


CHAPTER  XXIIT. 

Journal  :  August — December,  1839. 

Death  of  a  child. — Lines  by  Mr.  Merrick. — A  Persian  Meerza  preaching  the 
gospel. — Prince-governor's  rigor. — A  mob, — Packet  robbed. — The  medical 
profession  in  Persia. — Governor's  summer  hamlet. — Priest  Dunka  preach- 
ing in  the  mountains. — Tract  on  Papacy. — Visit  to  ArdishAi. — Salt  on  the 
shore  of  the  lake. — Mineral  springs. — Importance  of  scientific  knowledge  to 
missionaries. — Rescue  of  Mar  Gabriel  from  the  Papists. — Letter  from  Ma- 
lek  KAsem  Meerza. — Order  firom  the  king. — Addressing  superiors. — -Letter 
to  the  prince. — Providential  protection. — Indications  of  piety. — Prohibition 
of  wine-drinking,  385 


CONTENTS. 


xvii 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Journal  :  January — IVIakch,  1840. 

Note  from  Herit. — Visit  from  an  English  gentleman. — English  influence  in 
Afghinistin. — Mahaminedan  school. — Deaih  of  priest  Dunka's  brother. — 
Funeral. — Death  of  children  in  the  mission. — Deathof  Wm.  Riach. — Sym- 
pathy of  the  natives. — Mortality  of  native  children. — Longevity  in  Persia 
less  than  in  America. — Death  of  priest  Danka's  wife. — Nestorian  burial. — 
Service  at  the  grave. — Extempore  prayer. — Religious  feeling.— Letters  from 
priests  Abraham  and  Dunka,  received  in  America. — Mar  Sleeva,  his  igno- 
rance.— Narrations  of  an  adventurer.— Priest  Dunka's  education. — The 
Stork. — The  Nestorian  creed. — Proposition  to  translate  the  Liturgy,  402 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Journal:  March — September,  1840. 

Arrival  of  a  new  governor. — Visit. — Allusion  to  females. — Royal  firman. — 
Persian  style. — Office  of  Meerzas. — Manuscripts. — Sychophancy. — Com- 
munication of  intelligence. — Conclusion  of  the  war  with  Russia. — Conceal- 
ment of  unwelcome  news. — Emblems. — Policy. — Visit  from  a  Jewish  phy- 
sician.— Irrigation. — Mills. — Fruit. — Preparation  of  the  soil. — Apricot. — 
Plum. — Peach. — Grapes. — Melons.— Cherries. —Apples. —Pears. —Quinces. 
— Wheat. — Barley.  —  Rice. —  Tobacco. — Cucumbers. — Antepast. — Jewish 
rabbi. — A  work-yard. — Seeikhoosh. — Blessing  at  the  table. — Preaching. — 
Rain. — Monasticism. — Hebrew. — Wine-drinking,         .       .       .  413 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Jocrna-l:  September — December,  3840. 

Earthquakes. — Koordish  mountains. — Winds. — Sameil. — Preaching  to  the 
mountaineers. — Excursion. — Mahammedan  schools  and  colleges. — Judicia- 
ry.— Hunting. — Use  of  hawks.— The  net. — Papal  emissaries. — Secular  Pa- 
pists.— Character  of  Papacy  in  the  East. — Death  of  Williams. — Family  de- 
votions in  the  native  language. — Arrival  of  the  press. — Church  of  St.  Ma- 
ry.— Chief  rabbi. — Commencement  of  preaching  at  Ardishii. — Edition  of 
the  Psalms. — References. — A  Meerza,  learning  to  print,       .  -   .  435 

CHAPTER  XXVn. 

Journal:  January — June,  ]841. 
Preaching  in  the  meekni. — A  fast-breakfast. — Warming  the  church. — Map- 
drawing. — Preaching  again  at  Ardishdi. — Priest  Yohannan,  as  a  preacher. — 
Meeting  at  Alcii. — jfmpressions  on  first  hearing  the  truth. — Corbdn  Bei- 
rilm,  or  sacrificial  festival. — Adjustment  of  political  difSculties. — Visit  of 
the  Emeer-i-nizim. — Vizier. — Punishments. — Prison  discipline. — A  crowd- 
ed church. — Communion.— Levity  of  the  clergy. — Baptism. — The  first  book 
printed  in  the  Nestorian  language, — Buffalo- fighting. — 51st  Psalm. — Beard. 
Mt.  Seir. — Health-retreat. — Ordination. — Discussion  between  a  prince  and 
a  Lazarist. — Papacy  and  infidelity. — Success  in  building,       .       .  447 

CHAPTER  XXVni. 

Return  to  America. 

A  return  not  anticipated. — Sensitiveness  in  the  christian  community,  on  tiie 
subject  of  the  return  of  missionaries. — Reasons  in  our  case, — ViewB  of  the 


xviii 


CONTENTS. 


mission. — Ties  to  our  field. — Opinion  of  physicians. — Departure  from  Ordo« 
miah.— Crossing  the  Plain. — Mar  Yohannan's  desire  to  visit  America. — 
Obtains  his  father's  permission.— Minerals. — SalmAs. — District. --Town,  call- 
ed the  city. — Muleteer's  duplicity. — A  rain. — Khoy. — Threshing. — A  flood. 
Sublime  scene. — Horses  lost. — Insecurity.— Sight  of  the  Koords. — Grazing 
region. — Ararat. — Mammoth  caravan. — Papal  priest. -Merchants. — Horses. 
Poets. — Crossing  the  boundary  .—  Plain  ot  Ararat. — The  plague. — Providen- 
tial provision. — Tamine.  —  District  of  Alazgcrd. — Melancholy  scenes, — De- 
population.— Colony. — Crossing  a  summit. — Ascent  of  a  high  mountain. 
TJicft. — The  bishop's  loss — D5r  Boghos,  a  sublime  pass. — A  village  of  turf. 
Fields  of  wheat. — Illness. — Arrival  at  Erzroom. — Meeting  with  missionary 
friends. — Palace  of  the  English  Consul. — Missionary  prospects  at  Erzr6om. 
A  hard  soil. — An  important  position,     ....       .       .  461 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Return,  Continued. 

Infant  traveller. — Arrival  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Peabody  at  Erzroom. — Flowers. — 
Bees. — Sabbath  at  Hoshapand. — Shadow  of  a  great  rock. — Umbrellas. — 
Greek  priests. — Soda-spring. — Ravines. — Ascent  of  mountains. — Sight  of 
the  sea.  —  Taverns. —  Karakapim. — Sublime  views. — Javislik. — Reminis- 
cences.— Mrs.  P.'s  illness. — A  thunder-storm. — Arrival  at  Trebizond. — 
Quarantine. — Interview  with  the  English  ambassador. — Steamer. — Mission 
at  Trebizond. — Passage  to  Constantinople. — Samsoon. — Sinope. — Arrival. 
— Quarantine. — Carriages. — European  costume. — Meeting  with  friend*. — 
Italian  doctor. — Quarantine  doctors. — Influence  of  the  quarantine  system. — 
Mr.  Hamlin's  school. — Visit  at  Constantinople. — Monthly  concert. — Turk- 
ish bath. — Cleanliness  of  the  Persians. — Monthly  concert. — Progress  of  free 
inquiry. — Passage  to  Smyrna. — Mormon  missionary. — Mission  at  Smyrna. 
— Voyage  home.-^-Storms. — -Narrow  escape. — Allowance. — Judith,  as  a 
sailor. — Cargo. — Worms. —  Given  up  as  lost. — Arrival. — Meeting  of  the  A< 
B.  C.  F.  M  477 


CHAPTER  XXX. 
Conclusion. 

The  divine  agency  in  missions. --Sacrifices. — Female  agency.- -Mission- 
establishment  at  Or6omiah. —  Hope  in  the  missionary. — Present  state  of 

the  Nestorian  mission  Schools. --Printing. — Preaching. — Mission  to  the 

mountain  Nestorians. — Import  of  their  independence. — Changes  in  their 
political  condition  not  likely  to  be  unfavorable. — Mission  at  Constantino- 
ple.— Progress  of  truth  among  the  Armenians. — Character  of  the  people 
ifavorable  to  it. — General  aspects. — Influence  of  steam-power. — Increase 
of  commerce. — Rail-roads. — European  innovations. — Desire  for  European 
knowledge. — Miihammedism  declining. — Extension  of  British  influence. — 
Papal  designs  arrested. — Need  of  increased  prayer  and  effort  on  the  part  of 
the  church,  493 


LIST  OF  DRAWINGS. 


1.  King  of  Persia.  Page. 

2.  Koordish  warrior,  »   5 

3.  Nestorlan  of  tlie  mountains,  ;   Q 

4.  Mt.  Ararat,  as  seen  from  the  east,   132 

5.  Seminary  at  Oroomiah,   157 

6.  Mar  Yohannan,  a  bishop  of  Oroomiah,   172 

7.  Governor  of  Oroomiah,   184 

8.  Priest  Abraham,   ,   188 

9.  MarElias,   235 

10.  Priest  Zadoc,  a  brother  of  the  Patriarch,   262 

11.  A  Persian  MooUflih,   268 

12.  Mar  Gabriel,   272 

13.  A  Persian  lady,  at  home,   283 

14.  A  lady,  veiled  to  go  abroad,   288 

15.  A  lady,  gratifying  her  curiosity,   289 

16.  A  Nestorian  girl,  carrying  water,   319 

17.  A  Nestorian  girl,  decorated  with  ornaments,   335 

18.  A  Nestorian  mother  and  little  girl,   336 

19.  A  Persian  dervish,   375 

20.  A  Koordish  Pashd,   382 

21.  A  Persian  SeyM,   390 

22.  Priest  Dunka,   414 

23.  A  Persian  Meerza,   422 

24.  A  Persian  soldier,   457 

25.  A  Persian  muleteer,   466 

26-  A  Persian  merchant,   471 

27.  Mt.  Ararat,  as  seen  from  the  west,   472 


TABLES. 


MARKS  OF  ACCENT  AND  PRONUNCIATION. 
'  =  Accent. 

A  over  a,  =  both  accent*  when  that  is  not  over  another  syllable,  and  the 

sound  of  t]ie  vowel  a,  in  dawn,  only  a  little  shorter. 
*  over  M,  =  sound  of  oo  in  moon. 
i  over  i,  =  sound  of  i  in  machine. 
■  ■  over  u,  =  French  sound  of  w  in  vu. 
-  over  a  vowel,  =  very  short  o,  otu  in  tub. 
..  over  0  =  sound  of  eu  in  the  French  v^oidjleur. 


MEASURES  OF  DISTANCE. 

FursdJck,  the  Parasang  of  Xenophon,  which  has  usually  been  reckoned  as 
equal  to  four  miles,  but  is  probably  four  and  a  half  or  two-thirds. 

^ghdj,  tree,  [Turkish],  is  another  term  employed  to  indicate  the  same  dis- 
tance. 

Menzil,  stopping-place  ;  used  also  to  express  the  distance  between  two  stop- 
ping-places ;  i.  e.  stage,  or  day's  journey. 


PERSIAN  COIN. 

Sh&hie,  a  copper  coin  equal  to  one  and  one  fourth  cents. 
Mm  ShdMe  =  [half  shithde],  half  the  above. 

Sahih-hordn,  a  silver  coin  equal  to  twenty  shdhees,  or  twenty-five  cents. 
Penahdd,  a  silver  coin  equal  to  half  the  above,  or  twelve  and  a  half  cents. 
Tomdn,  a  gold  coin  equal  to  ten  sahib-kordns,  or  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents. 


**  "When  this  mark  occurs  over  two  letters  in  the  same  word,  the  accent,  if 
not  otherwise  indicated,  falls  upon  the  last  of  those  two  syllables. 


RESIDENCE  IN  PERSIA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

GENERAL  SKETCH  OF  THE  NESTORIAN  CHRISTIANS. 

The  interest  with  which  we  contemjplate  a  nation  or  people,  is 
often  in  great  disproportion  to  its  numbers.  The  little  States  of 
Greece  stand  unrivalled  on  the  pages  of  history,  as  the  early  in- 
structors and  civilizers  of  the  race.  The  small  community  of  the 
Waldenses,  pent  up  in  the  narrow  valleys  of  Piedmont,  was  the  re- 
pository of  that  inestimable  treasure — the  vitality  of  our  holy  reli- 
gion— during  the  long  night  while  the  rest  of  Europe  lay  torpid  un- 
der the  darkness  of  spiritual  death.  The  few  thousands  of  Mora- 
vians occupy  a  place  on  the  records  of  the  church,  in  the  vig-or  of 
their  zeal  and  the  energy  of  their  efforts  to  extend  the  triumphs  of 
the  gospel,  which  great  christian  nations  might  worthily  covet. 
And  the  small  island  of  Britain  is,  at  this  hour,  exerting  an  influence 
on  the  condition  and  destinies  of  the  whole  world,  which  the  vast 
extent  and  the  unnumbered  myriads  of  China  have  not  only  never 
known,  but  would  hardly  be  able  to  rival,  were  her  broad  territory 
and  countless  inhabitants,  illumined  by  the  light  of  science  and  con- 
trolled by  the  spirit  of  Christianity. 

The  obscure  people  who  are  the  particular  subject  of  this  volume, 
possess  a  humble  claim  to  illustrate  the  principle  I  have  suggested. 
The  Nestorian  Christians  are  the  small,  but  venerable,  remnant  of 
a  once  great  and  influential  christian  church.  They  are  the  oldest 
of  christian  sects;  and,  in  their  better  days,  were  numerous  through 
all  the  vast  regions  from  Palestine  to  China  ;  and  they  carried  the 
gospel  into  China  itself.  Their  history  is  a  checkered  one.  Some- 
times, as  under  the  tolerant  policy  of  the  mighty  Jhengis  Khan,  they 
were  raised  to  high  places  in  the  camp  and  at  the  court;  while  at 
other  times,  as  by  the  crushing  arm  of  the  bloody  Tiniourlane,  they 
were  cut  down  and  swept  away,  till  scarce  a  vestige  remained,  save 
in  the  fastnesses  of  inaccessible  mountains.  But  in  both  prosperity 
and  adversity,  during  more  than  a  thousand  years  of  their  history, 
are  furnished  the  brightest  examples  of  persevering  toil  and  self-de- 

1 


2 


LINEAL  ORrcrrr. 


nial,  and  often,  of  heroic  martyrdom,  cheerfully  encountered  in  the 
profession  and  zealous  promulgation  of  the  gospel,  that  are  to  be 
found  on  the  records  of  Christianity  since  the  days  of  the  apostles.* 

The  Vineal  origin  of  the  Nestorians,  like  that  of  most  Eastern  na- 
tions, is  hidden  in  the  mists  of  uncertainty.  Common,  and  perhaps 
universal,  tradition  among  them,  claims  the  Jews  as  their  ancestors. 
As  evidence  of  this  descent,  they  urge  the  resemblance  which  ex- 
ists between  the  Hebrew  and  their  own  language.  They  also  ad- 
dace  their  deep  abhorrence  of  the  use  of  images  and  pictures  as  an- 
other proof  of  their  Jewish  origin.  '  While,'  say  they,  '  all  other 
Eastern  Christians  having  descended  from  heathen  ancestors,  still  re- 
tain their  strong  attachment  to  idolatry,  the  plain,  unadorned  walls 
of  our  churches  proclaim  a  different  ancestry.'  The  curious  in- 
quirer might  adduce  many  other  more  or  less  plausible  evidences 
that  the  Nestorians  are  descendants  of  the  Jews.  Nor  is  there  any 
absurdity  in  the  supposition,  that  their  remote  ancestors  may  have 
been  some  portion  of  the  Israelites,  who  were  carried  away  captive, 
by  the  kings  of  Assyria,  as  mentioned  in  1  Chron.  5:  26,  and  2 
Kings,  15:  5,  29,  into  places  probably  not  distant  from  regions  now 
occupied  by  the  Nestorians.  But  to  attempt  to  demonstrate  as  certain, 
the  Jewish  origin  of  this  people,  must,  from  the  nature  of  the  case, 
in  the  absence  of  all  written  records  on  the  subject,  be  a  very  diffi- 
cult, if  not  an  unsatisfactory  undertaking ;  and  yet  more  difficult 
still  to  demonstrate  their  identity  with  tlie  lost  tribes  of  Israel,  un- 
mixed with  other  Jews  or  other  nations. 

Since  the  above  paragraph  was  originally  written,  Dr.  Asahel 
Grant,  one  of  my  respected  fellow-laborers,  has  published  a  work  in 
which  he  endeavors  to  prove  that  the  Nestorians  are  descendants  of 
the  lost  ten  tribes.  His  theory  has. been  examined  by  Dr.  Robinson 
and  rejected,  many  of  the  arguments  being  found  to  prove  too  much, 
by  adducing,  as  peculiar  to  the  Ancient  Israelites  and  the  Modern 
Nestorians,  customs  and  practices  which,  from  time  immemorial, 
have  been  oriental,  rather  than  national.  But  however  that  theory 
may  be  regarded,  the  narrative  part  of  Dr.  Grant's  book  will  be 
found  deeply  interesting  to  all,  particularly  as  it  details  the  incidents 
of  his  adventurous  journey  into  the  most  inaccessible  regions  of  the 
Koordish  mountains,  to  the  residence  of  the  Nestoriau  Patriarch 
and  other  places,  seldom,  if  ever,  before  visited  by  European  travel- 
lers. 

Their  conversion  to  Christianity,  the  Nestorians  refer  to  Thomas, 
one  of  the  twelve  apostles,  with  whom  Adai,  (Thaddeus,)  and  Mari, 
of  the  number  of  the  Seventy,  are  said  to  have  been  associated. 
Oral  tradition  and  the  ancient  writmgs  of  the  Nestorians  are  united 
in  support  of  this  opinion.  And  as  several  of  the  christian  Fathers 
inform  us,  that  Thomas  travelled  -eastward,  even  to  India,  preach- 

See  an  interesting  Account  of  the  "  Missions  of  the  Nestorian  Christians 
in  Central  and  Eastern  Asia,"  published  in  the  Missionary  Herald  for  Au- 
gust, 1638. 


ORIGIN  AS  A  CHttlSTIAN  SECT. 


3 


ing  the  gospel,  as  he  advanced,  through  the  countries  intervening, 
we  may  regard  the  claims  of  the  Nestorians,  on  this  subject,  as  at 
least  probable.  This  opinion  is  also  confirmed  by  the  fact,  that 
their  ritual,  composed  by  ancient  ecclesiastics,  contains  commemo- 
rations of  Thomas,  in  the  form  of  thanksgivings  to  God,  for  his 
zealous  labors  among  their  ancestors  and  other  eastern  nations. 
And  an  additional  confirmation  is  the  fact,  that  at  this  day,  the 
Nestorians  are  particularly  fond  of  naming  their  churches  in  honor 
of  that  apostle,  Mar  Thoma,  i.  e.  Saint  Thomas. 

The  origin  of  the  Nestorians,  as  a  christian  sect,  is  matter  of  au- 
tlientic  church  history.*  Nestorius,  from  whom  the  sect  derives 
its  name,  born  and  educated  in  Syria,  was  a  presbyter  at  Antioch 
and  was  made  bishop  of  Constantinople  A.  D.  428.  The  couspic- 
uousness  of  his  station — that  city  being  the  seat  of  empire — his 
boldness  in  attempting  to  correct  some  popular  superstitions — and 
perhaps  his  rashness  in  theological  speculation,  drew  upon  him  the 
envy  and  hostility  of  contemporary  bishops,  particularly  of  the  am- 
bitious Cyril,  then  bishop  of  Alexandria.  Arraigned  for  alleged 
heresy,  Nestorius  was  excommunicated,  at  Ephesus,  by  the  third 
general  council,  in  A.  D.  431, — only  about  three  years  after  his 
elevation  to  the  see  of  the  renowned  capital.  First  banished  for  a 
time  to  Arabia  Petraea,  and  subsequently  transported  to  one  of  the 
Oases  of  Lybia,  he  finally  died  in  Upper  Egypt.  One  charge  on 
which  the  august  council  decreed  his  excommunication,  by  ex  parte 
mnnagement,  was,  that  he  refused  to  apply  to  the  Virgin  Mary  the 
epithet  Mother  of  God,  (Oeotoxo^).  This  charge  he  evaded,  though 
Protestant  Christians  would  certainly  have  thought  never  the  worse 
of  him,  had  he  frankly  pleaded  guilty.  Another  principal  charge, 
in  his  excommunication,  was,  that  in  his  theological  belief,  he  in- 
vested Christ  with  two  persons  as  well  as  with  two  natures.  This 
charge  he  perseveringly  denied.  His  motives  in  attempting  to 
check  the  prevalent  superstition  of  paying  idolatrous  homage  to  a 
departed  mortal,  by  applying  to  Mary  the  blasphemous  epithet, 
mother  of  God,  were  undoubtedly  honest ;  and  whatever  novelties 
his  speculating  genius  may  have  led  him  to  broach,  on  the  myste- 
rious subject  of  the  incarnation,  his  views,  for  aught  that  appears, 
were  orthodox  in  the  main.  Indeed,  it  is  worthy  of  inquiry,  whether 
Nestorius  may  not  have  been  far  more  evangelical  than  his  oppo- 
nents, and  whether  his  comparative  purity,  in  the  general  corruption 
of  the  church  which  prevailed  at  that  period,  may  not  have  been 
the  principal  cause  of  the  rigor  with  which  he  was  treated.  Those 


*  See  Mosheim's  Institutes  of  Ecclesiastical  History,  by  James  Murdock, 
D.  D.  Vol.  I.  page  395  and        et  passim. 

A  full  account  of  the  origin  and, progress  of  Nestorianism  may  also  be 
found  in  Asseman's  "  Bibllolhoca  orientalis  Clementino  Vatieana,"  Vol.  IV  , 
in  giMioral  very  correct,  except  that  it  savors  strongly  of  Papal  projiulice. 

A  brief  but  very  accurnti'  account  of  the  Ncstoriiiu.s  is  also  jriven  in  llitt 
Researches  of  Smith  and  Dwight,  commencing  on  page  201,  Vol.  II. 


4 


JACOBITES  CHALDEANS. 


who  insist  on  the  infallibility  of  the  early  councils  are  of  course  led 
to  a  difTei  ent  conclusion. 

The  cause  of  Nestorius,  being  by  many  regarded  as  the  cause  of 
an  injured,  persecuted  man,  created  extensive  sympathy  and  found 
numerous  and  efficient  advocates.  It  was  warmly  espoused  by  his 
countrymen  in  the  East,  particularly  in  a  celebrated  Syrian  school 
in  Edessa,  (modern  Orfa,)  in  Mesopotamia,  in  which  great  num- 
bers of  christian  youth  were  at  that  time  educated.  This  first 
christian  sect,  thus  severed  from  the  general  church,  by  prejudice 
and  oppression,  taking  firm  root  in  that  central  position,  spread 
vapidly  in  all  directions.  It  soon  became  powerful,  especially  in 
Persia;  and  in  all  its  vicissitudes,  it  has  remained  permanent  from 
that  day  to  this,  in  some  of  the  regions  now  occupied  by  the  Nesto- 
rian  Christians. 

With  the  Nestoriayis,  should  not  be  confounded  two  other  sects, 
with  whom  they  are  sometimes  associated, — viz.  the  Jacobites  and 
the  Chaldeans.  The  former  are  Monophysite  Syrians,  i.  e.  Syrian 
Christians,  who  hold  to  but  one  nature  in  Christ.  They  are  quite 
numerous  in  Mesopotamia,  and  were  related  to  the  Nestorians, 
originally,  as  fellow  countrymen,  speaking  the  same  language,  the 
Ancient  Syriac. 

But  the  two  sects  are  divided  by  the  bitterest  hostilities  of  secta- 
rian rancor;  and  most  of  the  Jacobites  now  speak  the  Arabic  lan- 
guage, instead  of  the  modern  Syriac,  and  are  thus  cut  off  from  the 
last  tie  of  sympathy  with  their  kindred  the  Nestorians. 

The  Chaldeans  are  that  portion  of  the  Nestorian  Christians  that 
have  been  converted  to  the  Romish  faith,  principally  within  the  last 
century,  by  the  indefatigable  efforts  of  Jesuit  missionaries.*  Most 
of  these  Catholics  are  found  in  and  about  the  valley  of  Mesopota- 
mia. Indeed,  very  few  of  the  Nestorians  now  remain,  on  the  western 
side  of  the  Koordish  mountains,  who  have  not  yielded  to  the  intrigues 
and  usurpations  of  Papal  domination. f  The  title,  Chaldeans,  was 
given  to  these  Papists  by  the  Pope,  on  their  embracing  the  Catholic 
system, — an  epithet  which  the  Nestorians  deny  them  the  right  thus 
exclusively  to  appropriate,  alleging  that  they  themselves  have  at 
least  an  equal  relationship  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  ancient  "Ur  of 
the  Chaldees."  The  Papists  have  also  made  converts  from  the 
Jacobites,  and  arrogated  for  them  the  title  of  Syrian  Christians, 
with  about  the  same  degree  of  modesty  and  propriety  with  which 
they  assume  the  title  Chaldeans,  for  the  converts  they  have  made 
from  the  Nestorian  Christians.  Many  of  those  converted  from  the 
Nestorians  continue  to  speak  the  language  of  that  people,  as  well  as 
the  Arabic;  and  some  of  them  speak  only  the  former  ;  but  fami- 
ly quarrels  are  usually  the  most  violent,  so  the  Nestorians  are  sepa- 

*  See  Researches  of  Smith  and  Dwight,  Vol.  II.  p.  186. 

t  Southgate's  Tour  through  Armenia,  Persia  and  Mesopotamia,  Vol.  II. 
p,  229. 


KOORDISTAN  THE  K00BD3. 


6 


rated  from  those  "  Chaldeans,"  by  a  hostility  even  more  rancorous 
than  that  which  divides  them  from  the  Jacobite  Christians. 

It  is  to  the  Nestorians,  as  distinct  from  both  Jacobites  and  Chal- 
deans, that  our  missionary  labors  have  hitherto  been  directed,  and 
that  this  volume  has  particular  reference. 

The  existing  remnant  of  the  Nestorian  Christians  are  found  prin- 
cipally among  the  mountains  of  Koordistan  and  in  Oroomiah,*  an 
adjacent  district  in  the  western  part  of  Persia,  Geographically,  the 
Nestorians  are  situated  between  36°  and  39°  of  north  latitude,  and 
between  43°  and  46°  of  east  longitude. 

Koordistan  is  the  ancient  Assyria,  embracing  also  a  part  of  Ar- 
menia and  ancient  Media.  It  consists  mainly  of  wild  ranges  of 
mountains,  which  divide  tlie  Turkish  and  the  Persian  empires.  Its 
western  sections  are  nominally  subject  to  Turkey,  and  its  eastern 
to  Persia.  The  inhabitants,  however,  pay  but  a  limited  allegiance 
to  either  of  these  nations ;  and  some  of  them — the  Hakkary  tribe 
in  particular,  in  Central  Koordistan — are  nearly  or  quite  indepen- 
dent. 

The  Koords,  the  KaQdovxoi,  Carduchai,  of  Zenophon,t  who  gave 
hiraso  much  trouble  on  his  retreat  with  the  Ten  Thousand,  consist 
of  a  great  number  of  tribes,  speaking  different  dialects  of  a  language 
strongly  resembling  the  Persian,  who,  from  time  immemorial  have 
been  keepers  of  flocks — wild,  fierce  barbarians,  much  given  to 
plunder.  Their  religion  is  Milhammedism  of  the  Soonec  faith,  save 
the  small  sect  of  Yezeedees,  who  are  the  reputed  worshippers  of  the 
Devil.  Much  of  their  country  is  exceedingly  rough  and  would 
admit  little  cultivation.  This  roughness  of  the  country,  added  to 
the  ferocity  of  the  people,  renders  portions  of  it  well  nigh  inaccessi- 
ble, and,  consequently,  little  known  to  civilized  nations.  The  ac- 
companying drawing  very  well  represents  the  common  appearance 
of  a  Koordish  warrior. 


*  Says  the  Rev.  J.  L.  Merrick  of  Tabrijez,  Persia,  in  a  note  to  the  author, 
"  My  attention  has  of  late  been  turned  more  than  once  to  the  orthography  of 
the  name  of  your  city.  In  Syriac,  it  seems  the  ortliograpliy  is  perfectly  analo- 
gous to  the  Persian.  I  have  heard  vague  traditions  that  the  name  is  derived 
trom  a  colony  that  settled  there  from  Roum^  the  Greek  cvipira.  If  so,  the 
name  is  patronymic,  and  should  take  the  adjective  form.  I  use  cc,  as  in 
Frangee,  and  according  to  a  little  system  of  orthography  which  [  have  formed, 
I  should  write,  Oroomec  or  Jiroomr.c,  i.  e.  of  Room."  Surprising  devclopmenls 
will  doubtless  yet  be  made,  on  the  ethnology  of  the  people  of  tliis  and  other 
parts  of  Asia.  This  subject  has  already  advanced  sufficiently,  aa  a  science,  to 
rebuke  hasty  conclusions  and  sweeping  generalizations.  I  may  add,  in  con- 
nexion with  the  above  extract,  that  one  of  the  most  ancient  churches  in 
Oroomiah — an  arched  stone  fabric,  evidently  very  old  and  claiming  an  origin 
long  antecedent  to  the  time  of  Mdhammed,  is  said  by  the  Nestorians  to  have 
been  built  by  Franks,  i.  e.  by  xnestem  Christians.  For  the  present,  however, 
we  will  not  change  our  orthography  of  Oroomiah,  as  it  very  well  expresses 
the  native  pronunciation  of  the  name,  and  has  become  somewhat  established 
by  our  usage,— save  that  we  will  omit  one  o  in  the  first  syllable. 

t  Xenophon,  Anab.  III.  fin. 


6 


NESTORIANS  OF  KOORDISTAN. 


The  jVestorians  of  Koordistdn  inhah'it  the  wildest  and  most  inac- 
cessible parts  of  the  Koordish  mountains.  Some  of  the  districts 
occupied  by  them  are  so  rough,  that  no  beast  of  burden  can  travel 
over  them,  and  even  men  find  it  difficult  to  climb  about  from  cliff 
to  cliff.  The  least  populous  districts  of  these  Nestorians,  as  Gar- 
var,  Somai,  Chara,  Mamoodiah,  and  some  others,  are  subject  to  the 
Koordish  tribes  who  dwell  in  the  same  districts,  and  by  whom  (be- 
ing by  far  the  most  numerous)  the  Nestorians  are  severely  oppressed 
and  often  plundered.  Other  districts,  as  Diz,  Jeeloo,  Bass,  Tehoob 
and  Tiaree,  have  a  larger  Nestorian  population,  and  are  more  inde- 
pendent of  their  Koordish  neighbors.  Such  is  particularly  the  case 
of  Tiaree,  situated  in  the  narrow,  rugged  valley  of  the  river  Zab* 
(ancient  Zabus  or  Zabis,  which  runs  into  the  Tigris,)  which  is  the 
most  populous  of  all  the  Nestorian  districts  of  the  mountains.  It  is 
governed  by  Meliks  (literally  kings)  or  chiefs,  chosen  from  its  own 
people  by  the  popular  voice  irregularly  expressed.  The  office  of 
these  chiefs  is  usually,  though  not  always,  hereditary  in  the  same 
family.  This  district  of  Tiaree  is  not  only  quite  independent  of 
the  Koords,  but  its  inhabitants  have  such  a  character  for  bravery  and 
even  ferocity,  towards  their  Koordish  neighbors,that  the  latter  seldom 
hazard  the  adventure  of  entering  that  country,  and  such  as  do  enter 
it  are  said  often  to  atone  for  their  temerity  by  being  murdered  and 
thrown  into  the  river.  The  local  situation  of  Tiaree,t  hemmed  in, 
as  it  is,  by  steep,  lofty  mountains,  save  where  the  river,  by  narrow 
defiles,  enters  and  leaves  the  district,  serves,  no  less  than  its  popu- 
lousness,  to  defend  its  inhabitants  from  invasion.  The  Turkish 
government  is  now  making  vigorous  efforts,  through  the  agency  of 
the  Koords,  which  have  been  attended  with  measure  of  success, 
to  reduce  all  those  independent  Nestorians  to  a  state  of  vassalage. 

The  Nestorians  of  the  mountains,  like  their  Koordish  neighbors, 
obtain  their  subsistence,  to  a  great  extent,  from  the  pasturage  of 
flocks.  In  their  rugged  country,  the  principal  part  of  their  arable 
soil  consists  of  small  terraced  patches,  on  the  steep  declivities  of  the 
mountains-l  And  so  rough  and  barren  is  much  of  their  territory, 
that  the  people  find  it  almost  impossible  to  obtain  a  subsistence  in 
their  own  country.  Many  of  them  are  miserably  poor.  Some 
travel  abroad  and  beg  as  a  profession.  Considerable  numbers  come 
down  to  the  plain  of  Oroomiah,  in  summer,  to  find  employment; 
and  still  more  are  driven  down  there,  by  hunger  and  cold,  in  the 
winter,  to  seek  a  subsistence  on  charity.    In  some  of  the  districts 

*  Xenophon,  Anab.  II.  Sec.  5. 

t  This  name,  Tiiree,  13  a  Syriac  word,  which  means,  fold,  or  enclosure, 
(as  a  sheep-fold  in  John  10:  16  and  elsewhere),  and  was  obviously  given  to 
this  district  on  account  of  its  striking  local  peculiarities. 

t  Priest  Dunka,  one  of  our  translators,  who  is  from  the  mountains,  states, 
that  in  many  places,  if  a  Nestorian  lias  a  single  patch  large  enough  to  allow 
him  to  snw  n.  cop  fall,  of  seed  upon  it,  he  thinks  himself  peculiarly  favored  in 
the  extent  of  his  fields. 


A  MbSHIIWAS  iir  nil    Mril  NIAI.N 


OROOMIAH. 


7 


which  are  more  susceptible  of  cultivation  and  less  liable  to  the 
ravages  of  ihe  Koords,  the  inhabitants  obtain  a  comfortable  living; 
though  their  fare  is  coarse,  consisting  chiefly  of  the  products  of 
their  flocks,  with  rice,  and  bread  made  of  a  species  of  millet.  Wheat 
is  scarcely  cultivated  in  tlie  Koordish  mountains. 

The  Nestorians  of  the  mountains  resemble  their  Koordish  masters 
and  neighbors,  not  only  in  their  modes  of  living,  but  also  in  the 
exceeding  rudeness,  wildness  and  boldness  of  their  character.  The 
inhabitants  of  different  districts  often  fall  into  mutual  quarrels  and 
plunder  each  other;  and  if  remonstrance  is  offered,  the  pillagers 
sometimes  justify  themselves  by  replying,  that  they  plunder  their 
christian  brethren,  to  save  the  spoil  from  the  Koords  ! 

The  district  of  Oroomiah  is  in  the  western  part  of  Azerbijan, 
(ancient  Atropatene,*  northern  portion  of  Media,)  the  north-west- 
ern province  of  Persia.    It  consists  of  a  magnificent  plain,  situated 
at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Koordish  mountains,  and  extending  from 
them  to  the  beautiful  lake  of  the  same  name.    The  lake  of  Oroo- 
miah is  about  eighty  miles  in  length  and  thirty  in  breadth,  lying  in 
direction  a  little  to  the  west  of  north  and  east  of  south.    Its  waters 
are  very  salt,  perhaps  as  much  so  as  the  waters  of  the  Dead  Sea. 
No  fish  are  found  in  it:  but  fowl,  particularly  the  duck  and  fiam- 
ingo,t  frequent  it  in  great  numbers.    The  plain  of  Oroomiah  is 
about  forty  miles  in  length,  lying  upon  the  central  section  of  tlie 
lake,  and  in  its  broadest  part,  is  about  twenty  miles  wide.  Impos- 
ing branches  of  the  Koordish  mountains  sweep  down  quite  to  the 
waters  of  the  lake,  at  the  extremities  of  the  plain,  enclosing  it  like 
a  vast  amphitheatre.    This  great  plain,  with  the  adjacent  declivities 
of  the  mountains,  comprising  an  area  of  about  six  hundred  square 
miles,  contains  at  least  three  hundred  and  thirty  villages.    It  is 
amply  watered  by  three  considerable  rivers,  (i.  e.  considerable,  for 
Persia,  each  being  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
wide,)  besides  many  smaller  streams.    Its  soil  is  extremely  fertile, 
and  is  all  under  high  cultivation.    Its  staple  productions  are  wheat, 
rice,  cotton,  tobacco  and  the  vine.    It  also  abounds  in  a  great  va- 
riety of  fruits.    Besides  its  ten  or  twelve  species  of  the  grape,  it 
yields  cherries,  apricots,  apples,  pears,  quinces,  peaches,  plums, 
melons,  nuts,  etc.  in  most  ample  abundance.    And  such  is  the 


Strabo  XI.  p.  363.  ed.  Casaab.  1587.    Pliny  VI.  p.  13.  ed.  Lugd.  1GG9. 

t  The  flamingo  frequents  this  lake  in  such  numbers,  that  I  have  sccnynilts 
of  the  shore  whitened  by  a  continuous  flock  of  them.  This  bird  is  a  great  nat- 
ural curiosity.  Its  body,  as  it  is  found  here,  is  about  the  size  of  a  goose  ;  but 
its  slender  legs  and  small  flexile  neck  arc  of  such  enormous  length,  that  one 
full  grown  measures  six  feet,  from  tlie  bill  to  the  toes,  and  it  stretches  ita 
wings  to  even  a  greater  length.  Its  color  is  white,  save  the  wings,  the  front 
half  of  which  is  covered  with  inimitably  delicate  and  beautiful  red  feathers, 
and  the  back  half  with  black  quills.  It  is  taken  by  placing  snares  made  of 
hair,  in  the  shallow  parts  of  the  lake,  where  this  fowl  walks  about  in  search 
of  decayed  vegetables  carried  into  the  lake  by  the  streams. 


8 


BIRTH-PLACF.  OF  ZOROASTER. 


number  of  orchards  and  trees,  planted  along  "  the  water  courses," 
on  all  parts  of  the  plain,  as  to  give  much  of  it  the  appearance  of 
American  forests. 

About  twelve  miles  back  from  the  lake  and  about  two  miles  from 
the  mountains,  is  the  cit7j  of  Oroomiah.  It  is  the  ancient  Thebar- 
ma,*  the  birth-place,  as  tradition  says,  of  Zoroaster,  the  founder  of 
the  ancient  sect  of  fire-worshippers;  a  tradition  which  is  rendered, 
perhaps,  the  more  credible,  from  the  fact,  that  there  are,  on  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  plain,  sereral  artificial  mounds,  each  cohering  an 
area  of  an  acre  or  more,  and  rising  to  a  height  of  fifty  or  seventy 
feet,  which  seem  to  be  vast  piles  of  ashes,  that  accumulated  during 
the  lapse  of  centuries,  under  the  "perpetual  fires,"  before  which 
they  paid  their  adoration.  This  is  the  explanation  which  the  native 
inhabitants  give  of  these  monuments ;  and  I  see  no  particular  rea- 
son to  question  its  accuracy.  The  city  contains  about  twenty-five 
thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  nearly  four  miles  in  circumference. 
Like  other  cities  of  Persia,  it  is  surrounded  by  a  mud-wall  and  a 
ditch;  and  most  of  its  houses  are  built  of  unburnt  brick.  Its  mar- 
kets are  good,  for  this  country ;  its  streets  are  wider  than  are  com- 
mon, in  Eastern  cities ;  and  it  has  a  very  agreeable  air  of  comfort, 
from  the  great  number  of  shade-trees,  interspersed  among  the 
houses. 

From  elevations  back  of  the  city,  the  beholder,  as  he  looks  down 
upon  the  gardens  directly  below  him, — and  then,  upon  the  city, 
half  buried  in  shrubbery, — and  next,  over  the  vast  plain,  studded 
with  its  hundreds  of  villages,  verdant  with  thousands  of  orchards  and 
hedges  of  poplars,  willows  and  sycamores,  upon  the  streams,  and 
gleaming  with  almost  illimitable  fields,  waving  a  golden  harvest, — 
and  farther  still,  upon  the  azure  bosom  of  the  placid  lake,  beaming 
and  sparkling  like  an  immense  mirror,  under  the  brilliancy  of  the 
pure  Persian  sky, — and  finally,  upon  the  blue  mountains,  far  in  the 
distance  beyond  the  lake, — one  of  the  loveliest  and  grandest  speci- 
mens of  natural  scenery  is  spread  out  before  him,  that  was  ever  pre- 
sented to  the  eye  of  man. 

The  climate  of  Oroomiah  is  naturally  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
world.  It  resembles,  in  Us  temperature,  the  climate  of  our  Middle 
States.  Unhappily,  however,  artificial  causes  are  at  work  which 
render  it  decidedly  unhealthy, — particularly  to  foreigners.  A  coun- 
try so  charming, — so  bright  under  the  effulgence  of  its  clear  hea- 
vens and  grateful  with  the  thrifty  growth  of  its  abundant  crops,  pre- 
sents to  the  CT/c  so  much  of  the  aspect  of  an  Eden,  as  almost  to  for- 
bid the  idea  of  the  approach  of  sickness  and  pain.  But  the  foreigner, 
who  resides  there,  is  soon  forced  to  feel  that  its  brilliant  skies  and 
balmy  breezes,  beautiful  and  grateful  as  they  are,  are  still  surcharged 
with  the  elements  of  disease  and  death.    The  causes  of  its  unhealthi- 


*  St.  Martin  Mcjn.  sur  I'Av.nen.  II.  p.  423,  Abulfedae  Geog.  Tab.  XVIII. 
Ritter's  Erdkunde  IX.  p.  943. 


RELATION  TO  THE  MUHAMMEDANS. 


9 


ness  are  the  constant  irrigation,*  in  summer,  of  the  almost  number- 
less fields  and  gardens,  on  the  plain,  with  the  consequent  great 
amount  of  evaporation, — the  rapid  and  almost  boundless  growth  and 
decay  of  its  annual  vegetation, — and  a  more  prolific  cause  still,  the 
numerous  pools  of  stagnant  water,  that  remain  much  or  all  of  the 
time,  in  different  places,  particularly  in  the  fosse  which  surrounds 
the  city,  and  cannot  fail  to  generate  a  vast  amount  of  miasma.t 
The  reforming  hand  of  a  good  government,  controlled  by  the  re- 
deeming spirit  of  Christianity,  is  all  that  is  needed,  to  drain  and  dry 
up  those  stagnant  pools,  and  remove  many  other  nuisances,  and 
soon  restore  this  climate,  in  a  great  measure,  to  its  native  salubrity. 

The  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah  have  a  general  tradition,  that  their 
immediate  ancestors  came  down  from  the  mountains,  to  live  on  the 
plain,  at  a  period  not  definitely  known,  but  about  five  or  six  hun- 
dred years  ago.  It  is  quite  probable  that  the  Nestorians  were  en- 
tirely swept  away  from  this  province,  for  a  season,  during  the  de- 
vastations of  Timourlane.  There  are,  however,  some  monuments 
of  their  earlier  residence  here.  The  largest  and  oldest  niosk  in  this 
city,  for  instance,  was  once  a  christian  church.  In  repairing  it,  a 
few  years  ago,  a  vault  was  found  under  it,  containing  some  ancient 
relics,  and  among  them,  a  Ms.,  in  a  state  of  tolerable  preservation, 
purporting  to  have  been  written  in  that  church  about  eight  hundred 
years  ago. 

Not  more  than  six  hundred  Nestorians  reside  in  the  city  of 
Oroomiah.  They  are  principally  in  a  compact  position,  adjacent  to 
which  the  premises  of  our  mission  are  situated.  There  are  about 
two  thousand  Jews  in  the  city,  and  the  remaining  part  of  the  popu- 
lation are  Muharaniedans. 

The  Nestorians  are  numerous  in  the  villages,  on  the  plain  of 
Oroomiah,  in  some  cases  occupying  a  village  e.Kclusively,  and  in 
others,  living  in  the  same  villages  with  Muhamniedans.  Most  of 
them  are  employed  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  of  which  they  are 
sometimes,  though  rarely,  the  proprietors.  A  few  are  mechanics, 
as  masons,  and  joiners.  Their  common  relation  to  the  Muhamme- 
dan  nobility  in  the  tenure  of  the  soil,  is  that  of  serfs  and  lords.  The 
Muhanmedan  peasantry  sustain  nominally  the  same  relation  to  the 
higher  classes,  though  their  rights  are  better  respected  than  those  of 
the  Christians.  The  Nestorians  often  suffer  lawless  extortion  and 
oppression  from  their  Muhammedan  masters.  Their  circumstances 
are,  however,  quite  tolerable  for  a  people  in  bondage.    And  their 


*  Showers  are  very  rare  in  Persia  during  the  warm  part  of  the  year.  The 
gardens  and  fields  are  therefore  necessarily  irrigated  by  means  of  small  canals 
■which  conduct  tlie  water  from  tlie  streams. 

t  Prof.  Hitchcock  of  Amherst  College,  has  analysed  specimens  of  the  wa- 
ter of  the  lake,  and  while  the  principal  ingredient  is  muriate  of  soda,  or  com- 
mon salt,  he  finds  it  capable  of  discliarging  large  quantities  of  sulphurreted  hy- 
drogen ;  and  suggests  that  this  may  also  be  a  fruitful  cause  of  the  unheoltlii- 
ncfsa  of  the  climate  of  that  province. 

2 


10 


NUi>IBER  OF  THE  NESTORIANS. 


fertile  country  yields  such  an  overflowing  abundance,  that,  so  far 
from  being  pinched  with  a  want  of  the  means  and  many  of  the  com- 
forts of  life,  the  industrious  among  them  are  always  surrounded  with 
liberal  plenty. 

The  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah  partake  much,  in  their  manners,  of 
the  suavity  and  urbanity  of  the  Persian  character.  By  the  side  of 
their  rude  countrymen  from  the  mountains,  though  originally  from 
the  same  stock,  they  appear  like  antipodes.  They  themselves  de- 
nominate the  Nestorian  mountaineers,  wild  men. 

This  difference  in  the  appearance  and  character  of  the  two  class- 
es is  owing  entirely  to  their  respective  local  circumstances.  And 
■we  may  regard  it  as  a  felicity,  that  the  mountaineers  are  impelled, 
by  interest  or  necessity,  frequently  to  visit  the  plain  in  such  num- 
bers, where  they  cannot  help  feeling  and  imbibing  a  softening,  hu- 
manizing influence.  And  as,  in  the  progress  of  our  work,  the  peo- 
ple of  this  province  shall  become  yet  more  enlightened  and  elevated, 
by  the  revival  of  the  spirit  of  Christianity  among  them,  their  inter- 
course will  tell  still  more  powerfully  and  beneficially,  on  their  less 
civilized  brethren,  and  through  them,  on  all  classes  of  the  rude  in- 
habitants of  Koordistan,  and  especially  in  connection  with  the  mis- 
sionary operations  that  are  contemplated  in  those  wild  mountains. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  arrive  at  even  tolerable  accuracy,  in  estimat- 
ing the  number  of  the  Nestorians.  The  methods  of  obtaining  statis- 
tics, on  this  subject,  among  orientals  generally,  are  very  indefinite 
and  unsatisfactory.  The  population  of  a  town,  village,  or  district, 
is  usually  estimated  by  the  number  of  families,  a  given  number  of 
individuals  being  assumed  as  the  average  in  each  family.  But  in 
the  primitive,  patriarchal  style  of  living  which  obtains  in  these  coun- 
tries, where  three,  four,  or  even  five,  generations,  as  the  case  may 
be,  dwell  together  in  the  same  household,  the  number  of  persons 
in  a  family  varying  from  five  up  to  fift.een,  twenty,  twenty-five,  thir- 
ty, and  even  more,  it  is  impossible  to  fix  accurately  on  an  average 
number.  Ten  is  the  number  often  assumed  for  this  purpose.  In 
the  Koordish  mountains,  the  population  is  often  estimated  by  the 
number  of  soldiers,  that  can  be  rallied  on  an  emergency,  every  male 
adult  being  reckoned  as  a  soldier.  But  this  njethod  is  even  more 
indefinite  than  the  other;  for,  in  those  wild,  inaccessible  regions, 
there  is  the  additional  difficulty,  that  the  number  of  either  houses  or 
soldiers  is  very  imperfectly  known. 

The  probable  number  of  ihe .Nestorian  Christians,  as  nearly  as  I 
can  ascertain  it,  with  such  difficulties  encumbering  the  subject,  is 
about  one  hundred  and  forty  thousand.  In  Tiaree,  by  far  the  larg- 
est and  most  populous  district  of  the  Nestorians  among  the  moun- 
tains, there  may  be  about  fifty  thousand  inhabitants.  This  district 
is  inhabited  exclusively  by  Nestorians,  and,  as  already  stated,  has 
hitherto  been  quite  independent  of  the  Koords.  In  all  the  other 
districts  of  the  mountains,  there  may  be  sixty  thousand  Nestorians. 
And  in  the  province  of  Oroomiah,  there  are  between  thirty  and  for- 


WEITTEN  CHARACTER. 


11 


ty  thousand.  One  hundred  and  forty  thousand  is  a  small  number 
to  comprise  a  nation,  or  an  ancient  sect  of  Christians.  But  the  his- 
tory of  the  Nestorians,  as  well  as  their  present  circumstances  and 
character,  as  was  suggested  at  the  commencement  of  this  chapter, 
invest  this  little  remnant  with  an  interest,  in  a  measure,  indepen- 
dent of  numbers. 

The  position  and  character  of  the  Nestorians  of  Oroomiali  give 
to  them  an  importance  far  superior  to  their  relative  proportion  of  the 
whole  population.  This  is  especially  true,  in  view  of  the  fact,  that 
its  population  is  at  present  fast  increasing,  by  the  permanent  immi- 
gration into  this  province,  of  considerable  numbers  of  the  Nestori- 
ans from  many  of  the  mountain  districts.  Oppressed  and  overrun, 
by  the  superior  power  of  their  rapidly  increasing  Koordish  masters, 
the  poor  refugees  fly  to  Oroomiah,  as  a  generous  asylum.  And  the 
time  may  not  be  distant,  when  the  humble  christian  population  of 
this  province,  augmented  in  their  numbers  and  elevated  in  their  char- 
acter,— their  Muhammedan  masters  at  the  same  time  being  weaken- 
ed and  diminished  by  their  growing  corruption  and  depressed  by 
political  revolution — shall  quietly  inherit  this  goodly  land.  The 
meek  shall  inherit  the  earth. 

To  the  christian  scholar,  the  language  and  literature  of  the  Nes- 
torian  Christians  are  objects  of  much  interest.  Their  ancient  lan- 
guage is  the  Syriac, — by  some  supposed  to  haye  been  the  common 
language  in  Palestine  in  the  days  of  Christ  and  the  same  in  which 
the  Saviour  himself  conversed  and  preached,  and  probably  not  differ- 
ing much  from  it.*  This  language  is  still  the  literary  language  of 
the  Nestorians.  Their  books  are  nearly  all  written  in  it.  They 
conduct  their  epistolary  correspondence  in  it;  and  though  a  dead 
language,  the  best  educated  of  their  clergy  become  able  to  converse 
in  it  with  fluency.  Their  written  character  differs  considerably 
from  that  of  the  western,  or  Jacobite,  Syrians,  which  is  the  charac- 
ter best  known  to  European  scholars.  The  former  was  never,  to 
my  knowledge,  in  type,  until  A.  D.  1829,  when  an  edition  of  the 
Gospels  was  printed  in  it  by  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society. 
It  much  resembles  the  Estrangelo,!  but  has  a  more  round  and  easy 

*  See  an  able  aud  interesting  article  in  relation  to  this  langua^,  in  the 
Biblical  Repository  for  April,  1831 ;  Vol.  I.  p.  358. 

t  "  Estrangelo  is  the  most  ancient  among  the  kinds  of  writing  which  are 
found  in  Syriac  books.  To  this  name,  indeed,  Asscman  gives  the  signification 
oCround,  deriving  it  from  the  Greek  fTT()oyyi'io<:.  But  since  this  form  of  the  let- 
ter is  by  no  means  round  (a  point  correctly  observed  by  J.  D.  Michaelis  and 
Adlerus,)  we  conclude,  along  with  these  men,  that  the  name  is  of  Arabic  ori- 
gin. The  Syrians  first  employed  it  Carscliunice,  i.  e.  in  writing  Syriac  let- 
ters ;  then  adopted  it,  being  derived,  from^icjw ,  scriptura,  and  ^  *  T''-'^^> 

evangelium;  so  that  it  may  signify,  scriptura  evangelii.  ,  This  is  the  large 
hand  which  they  employed,  in  writing  copies  of  the  Gospel,  opposed  to  the 
smaller  and  more  rapidly  written  letters  which  Adlerus  informs  us  were  used 
for  common  purposes  at  that  time." — Hoffmann's  Syr.  Gram.  p.  67.  See  also 
notes  following  on  the  same  page. 


12 


VERNACULAR  LANGUAGE. 


form.  Tlie  Nestorians  hare  some  old  books  written  in  the  Estran- 
gelo,  and  they  still  use  that  ancient  character  for  capital  letters. 
The  common  Nestorian  character  is  a  very  clear  and  beautiful  one, 
so  agreeable  to  the  eye,  that  members  of  our  mission,  when  inca- 
pacitated by  ophthalmy,  to  read  English,  without  pain,  are  able  to 
read  the  Syriac,  in  this  character  with  little  inconvenience. 

There  are  twenty-two  consonants  in  the  language  of  the  Nestor i- 
ans,  the  same  as  in  the  ancient  Syriac,  with  a  modification  of  Gimcl 
(g)>  by  a  scratch  of  the  pen  underneath  to  express  j ,  ch  or  gh  ;  and 
of  Pe  (p)  by  a  half  Vav  placed  under  it,  to  express  ph.  B,  G,  D, 
K,  P,  and  Th,  are  also  subject  to  aspiration,  which  is  indicated  by  a 
point  below  them  and  the  reverse  by  a  point  above,  the  same  as  in 
the  ancient  language.  There  are  seven  vowels,  corresponding  to 
long  a,  short  a,  long  e,  short  e,  long  and  short  i,  long  o  and  double  o, 
or  M.  The  vowels  used  by  the  Nestorians  are  points,  and  not  the 
Greek  vowels  inverted,  as  used  by  the  Western  Syrians;  and  where 
the  latter  use  omicron  (short  d),  as  in  Aloho,  God,  the  Nestorians  use 
the  open  sound  of  a,  as  Alalia,  God. 

The  vernacular  language  of  the  Nestorians,  is  a  modern  dialect 
of  the  ancient  Syriac,  much  barbarized  by  inversions,  contractions 
and  abbreviations,  and  by  the  introduction  of  a  great  number  of 
Persian,  Koordish  and  Turkish  words,  each  class  prevailing  respec- 
tively, in  a  particular  district,  in  proportion  as  it  is  situated  near  to 
the  people  using  either  of  those  languages.  Though  thus  corrupted, 
however,  as  now  spoken  by  the  Nestorians,  the  body  of  the  language 
comes  directly  from  the  venerable  ancient  Syriac,  as  clearly  as  the 
modern  Greek  comes  from  the  ancient.  It  is  a  softer  language 
than  the  ancient  Syriac,  its  guttural  words  being  fewer,  and  its 
nouns  even  more  extensively  ending  in  open  vowel  sounds.  The 
accent  is  almost  invariably  upon  the  penult  syllable.  The  noun  is 
declined  by  means  of  a  preposition,  having  properly  no  construct 
state,  though  the  first  of  two  nouns  has  an  affix  pronoun,  indicating 
possession, — thus,  Brdonce,  (his  son,  instead  of  Broona,  son,)  d'Ora- 
ham,  son  of  Abraham.  The  objective  case,  after  an  active  verb,  is 
indicated  by  the  particle,  I,  prefixed ;  the  dative  is  expressed  by 
the  same  particle,  meaning  to,  or  Jor ;  and  the  ablative  is  govern- 
ed by  prepositions.  The  passive  voice  is  formed  by  a  distinct  aux- 
iliary verb,  and  not  by  a  syllable  prefixed,  as  in  the  ancient  language. 
The  Nestorians  of  the  Koordish  mountains  speak  dialects  more 
nearly  resembling  the  ancient  Syriac,  both  in  words  and  in  sound, 
than  the  inhabitants  of  Oroomiah,  alike  from  their  limited  inter- 
course with  foreign  nations  and  their  more  rude  and  hardy  char- 
acter. 

Some  critics  have  questioned  this  opinion,  and  supposed  that  the 
language  of  the  Nestorians  is  a  modern  dialect  of  the  ancient  Chal- 
daic,  instead  of  the  Syriac,  notwithstanding  all  their  literature  being 
in  the  Syriac,  and  their  written  correspondence  being  still  conducted 
in  that  language.    It  is  incumbent  on  such  as  sustain  this  view,  to 


CCLTIVATION  OF  THIS  LANGUAGE. 


13 


point  out  the  difference  between  the  Chaldaic  and  the  Syriac,  and 
to  show  that  the  spoken  language  of  the  Nestorians  is  more  aUied 
to  the  former  than  to  the  latter.  I  will  insert  in  this  connection  a 
brief  extract  from  a  letter  which  I  received  from  Prof  Edward 
Robinson  D.  D.,  whose  learned  researches  on  this  and  kindred  sub- 
jects entitle  his  opinion  to  the  highest  deference.  The  extract  is  as 
follows,  viz. :  "  Professor  Rodiger*  proposes  to  go  on  and  publish 
a  fuller  account  of  the  Syriac  language,  as  now  spoken  among  the 
Nestorians.  The  views  contained  in  your  letter  leave  no  room  to 
doubt  of  the  character  of  the  language,  nor  that  the  Chaldean,  so 
called,  of  Mesopotamia,  is  the  same.  I  have  myself  had  no  doubt 
of  this  before;  although,  on  inquiry  of  R  —  and  of  Mr.  S —  in 
Constantinople,  I  could  get  no  satisfactory  information  from  either. 
The  prevailing  view  among  scholars  at  present  is,  that  the  ancient 
Chaldee  and  the  Syriac  are,  at  the  bottom,  the  same  dialect;  the 
former  having  developed  itself  in  a  more  Jeioish  form  and  adopted 
a  Hebrew  alphabet,  and  the  latter  having  been  diffused  among 
Christians,  with  a  different  alphabet, — i.  e.  one  being  a  Hebraizing 
Aramaean,  and  the  other,  a  christian  Aramaean.  A  similar  fact  ex- 
ists now  in  relation  to  the  Servian  and  Illyrian  languages.  They  are 
the  same,  or  nearly  so,  as  spoken ;  but  the  Servians  are  Greek 
Christians  and  use  a  peculiar  alphabet;  while  the  Illyrians  are 
Catholics  and  write  with  the  Latin  letters." 

I  may  add,  that  one  of  my  respected  associates,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Holladay,  and  myself,  have  taken  some  pains  to  compare  the  lan- 
guage of  the  Nestorians  with  the  Chaldaic,  as  exhibited  in  the  books 
of  Daniel  and  Ezra,t  and  at  the  same  time,  with  the  ancient  Syriac 
of  those  portions  of  Scripture,  and  the  result  has  been  a  decided 
preponderance,  in  the  difference  that  obtains  between  those  two 
ancient  dialects,  in  favor  of  deriving  this  modern  language  directly 
from  the  Syriac. 

Very  little  attempt  had  been  made  to  reduce  the  vernacular  lan- 
guage of  the  Nestorians  to  writing,  until  we  commenced  our  mis- 
sionary operations.  The  ancient  Syriac  being  a  chad  language, 
and  entirely  unintelligible  to  the  people  until  studied  as  a  learned 
tongue,  it  seemed  to  us,  at  the  outset,  quite  indispensable  to  the  due 
accomplishment  of  our  object,  to  make  their  ^nqdern  dialect  the 
medium  of  written,  as  well  as  of  oral,  instruction.  Some  theoretic 
philologists  question  the  propriety  of  reducing  to  writing  any  of  the 
spoken  languages  of  the  oriental  Christians,  and,  perhaps,  some 
other  Asiatic  vernacular  languages,  advising,  that  the  people  should 
be  carried  back  to  the  readoption  of  their  ancient  tongues.  Such 

*  Of  Halle. 

t  Says  Dr.  Robinson,  "  The  Chaldaic  of  Daniel  and  Ezra  is  hardly  a  fair 
standard  of  comparison,  since  it  approaches  much  nearer  to  the  Hebrew  than 
does  the  ordinary  Chaldee  dialect.  The  comparison  sliould  rather  have  been 
made  with  some  portion  of  the  Chaldee  translations  exhibited  in  the  Tar- 
gums."    Am.  Bib,  RepoB.  Oct.  1841,  p.  459,  note. 


14 


SCRIPTURES  IN  ANCIENT  STRIAC. 


philologists  should  remember,  that  popular  language  is  not  that 
tractable  thing,  which  will  come  and  go  at  one's  bidding, — and 
especially,  march  far  in  a  retrograde  direction ;  that  it  is  rather 
an  absolute  sovereign,  whom  we  may,  indeed,  approach  and  con- 
ciliate, but  whom  we  try  in  vain  to  coerce.  I  may  here  quote  one 
or  two  brief  remarks  from  Prof.  Robinson's  letter,  from  which  the 
paragraph  above  quoted  is  taken.  He  says,  "  There  can  be  no 
doubt,  I  think,  as  to  the  propriety  and  necessity  of  cultivating  the 
modern  Syriac,  in  the  manner  you  mention,  any  more  than  there  ia 
in  the  case  of  the  modern  Greek.  It  is  the  language  and  the  only 
language  of  the  people,  and  must  remain  so,  though  it  should  be 
purified  and  refined,  by  a  reference  to  the  ancient  language,  so  far 
as  possible."  We  have,  from  the  first,  been  fully  impressed,  in  at- 
tempting to  reduce  this  spoken  dialect  lo  writing,  with  the  high  im- 
portance of  shaping  it,  so  far  as  practicable,  to  the  very  perfect 
model  of  the  ancient  Syriac ;  and  we  strenuously  urge  on  the  Nes- 
torians  the  continued  study  of  the  latter,  as  a  learned  language.  It 
is  visionary,  however,  to  suppose,  that  they  could  ever  be  brought 
to  adopt  this  as  their  vernacular  tongue.  By  the  blessing  of  God, 
on  our  labors,  we  have  succeeded,  in  putting  considerable  portions 
of  the  Scriptures,  and  some  other  matter,  into  this  new,  and,  to  the 
Nestorians,  attractive  costume. 

Of  the  venerable  ancient  Syriac,  once  so  highly  and  extensively 
cultivated  and  so  rich  in  its  literary  treasures,  we  now  find,  as  of 
the  unfortunate  people  who  use  it,  little  more  than  its  ashes. 
The  number  of  works,  at  present  extant  among  the  Nestorians,  is 
very  limited,  and  copies  of  these  are  extremely  rare.  The  library 
of  the  patriarch,  which  had  often  been  represented  to  us  as  abso- 
lutely prodigious,  and  might  appear  so  to  these  simple-hearted  people 
•who  were  acquainted  with  no  method  of  making  books,  except  the 
slow  motion  of  the  pen,  was  found  by  Dr.  Grant  to  consist  of  not 
more  than  sixty  volumes,  and  a  part  of  these  are  duplicates.  And 
no  other  collection,  to  be  compared  with  this,  exists  among  the  Nesto- 
rians. Three,  five,  or  ten,  books,  have  been  regarded  as  a  liberal 
supply  for  a  large  village  or  district  even. 

The  few  books  which  the  Nestorians  posset's,  however,  are  objects 
of  deep  interest.  Among  them  are  found  the  whole  of  the  Holy 
Scriptures,  with  the  following  exceptions,  viz.,  the  epistle  of  Jude, 
the  second  and  third  epistles  of  John,  the  second  of  Peter,  and  the 
Revelation  ;  also,  the  account  of  the  woman  taken  in  adultery  in  John 
VIII,  and  the  much  discussed  passage  in  1  John  5:  7,  none  of  which 
are  found  in  any  of  their  Ms.  copies,  or  seem  to  have  been  known  to 
them  until  introduced  by  us,  in  the  printed  editions  of  the  British  and 
Foreign  Bible  Society;  i.  e.  the  Pcsckito*  is  the  only  version  of  the 
New  Testament  with  which  they  seem  ever  to  have  been  acquainted. 
They  make  no  objection  to  these  portions  of  the  Scriptures,  as  in- 

*  Peschito  is  a  Syriac  word,  meaning,  pure,  simple,  or  literal.  This  version 
of  the  New  Testament  is  supposed  to  have  been  early  made  from  the  Greek. 


CHURCH  BOOKS. 


15 


troduced  by  us,  but  readily  recognize  and  acknowledge  them  as 
canonical.  Their  Scriptures  are  not  found  in  one  volume,  but  are 
usually  in  six,  the  division  being  as  follows,  viz.,  1.  The  Pentateuch, 
(Ovrata,)  copies  of  which  are  not  so  rare  as  of  some  other  portions. 
2.  The  reraaining  books  of  the  Old  Testament  as  far  as  the  Psalms, 
with  the  exception  of  the  two  books  of  Chronicles,  (Bitmetwee,) 
copies,  few.  3.  The  two  books  of  Chronicles,  (Bheremin,)  copies 
of  which  are  very  rare.  4.  The  Psalms,  (David,  or  Mismoree,) 
copies  comparatively  numerous.  5.  The  Prophets,  (Nobhiee,) 
copies  rare.  6.  The  New  Testament,  (Khedetta,)  copies  more  nu- 
merous than  of  any  other  portions  except  the  Psalms. 

In  the  second  book,  in  this  list,  occurs  the  apochryphal  work, 
Ecdesiasticus ,  or  the  Wisdom  of  Sirack,  (Khahumptha  d'bae  Sirah,) 
and  most  of  the  other  books  of  the  apochraphy,  as  known  to  Euro- 
peans, are  mentioned  as  existing  in  the  mountains.  The  Nestorians 
have  aJso,  in  a  separate  volume,  a  work  purporting  to  be  the  Revela- 
tion of  Paul,  (Gileeaaee  dTaulus),  which  is  said  to  consist  of 
communications  of  the  "  unutterable  words,  which,"  he  tells  us,  "  it 
is  not  lawful  for  man  to  utter,"  that  he  heard,  when  he  was  "  caught 
up  to  the  third  heavens." 

The  principal  books,  containing  the  church  service  of  the  Nesto- 
rians, are  the  following,  viz.  1.  Alternate  prayers  for  each  day  in 
two  weeks,  (K'dera,  and  Kharai,  Dooatha).  2.  Prayers  for  every  day 
in  the  year  except  the  sabbath  and  festivals,  (Keshkool).  3.  Prayers 
for  the  Lord's  day  and  festivals,  (Hodra).  4.  Prayers  forFestivals  not 
in  Lent,  (Gezza).  5.  Services  for  communion,  ordination,  baptism 
and  consecration  of  churches,  (Taksa).  6.  Legends  of  Saints  read 
in  the  churches  during  some  of  their  fasts,  (Werda).  7.  Marriage 
services,  (Barukta).  8.  Funeral  services,  (Oneeda).  A  small 
Romish  Legend  is  also  found  among  them,  claiming  to  be  an  epis- 
tle that  descended  from  heaven,  at  Rome,  about  the  A.  D.  777, 
being  engraved  by  the  finger  of  God  on  a  table  of  ice!  After  de- 
tailing a  pompous  array  of  signs  and  wonders  that  attended  its  de- 
scent, it  proceeds  to  enjoin  the  observance  of  the  laws  of  God  and  of 
the  church,  and  denounces  fearful  threatenings  on  the  disobedient. 
It  is  entitled,  the  epistle  of  the  Sabbath,  (Agertha  d'Khosheeba),  i,  e. 
it  descended  on  the  Sahbath,  and  demands  a  reading  every  Sabbath. 
It  is  but  little  used  by  the  Nestorians. 

Reciting  the  Psalms  comprises  a  very  considerable  part  of  the 
daily  church  service  of  the  Nestorians.  The  gospels  are  also  read, 
particularly  on  the  Sabbath  and  on  festival  occasions.  And  the 
Epistles  and  the  Old  Testament,  though  less,  are  still  frequently 
used,  in  their  churches. 

The  Nestorians  have  a  book  containing  the  laws  and  canons  of 
their  church,  (Siinhados).*  They  have  also  some  of  the  writings  of 


*  When  the  Syriac  literature  was  in  its  greatest  prosperity,  the  Greek  lan- 
guage and  literature  were  much  cultivated  by  the  Syrians,  who  introduced 


16 


ANCIENT  MANUSCRIPTS. 


the  Fathers,  (Abhahatha) ;  and  traditions,  (Teshaiatha) ;  Books  of 
Martyrs,  (Sadee) ;  and  commentaries,  (Nooharee,)  on  all  portions  of 
the  Scriptures,  some  of  which  are  very  interesting  and  instructive, 
but  other  parts  are  equally  fanciful  and  puerile.  They  have  books 
of  wise  and  moral  sayings,  (Akuidaree,  Shaper  Doobharee) ;  and 
books  of  philosophy,  (Peeiasoopa,)  but  "  falsely  so  called and  they 
have  rare  copies  of  ponderous  dictionaries,  (Lexicon,)  and  gram- 
mers,  (Grammatika). 

Among  the  books  of  the  Nestorians  are  some  very  ancient  manu- 
scripts. There  are  copies  of  the  New  Testament,  for  instance, 
written,  seme  on  parchment  and  some  on  paper,  which  date  back 
about  six  hundred  years.  Some  of  these  are  written  in  the  Estran- 
gelo,  and  some  in  the  common  Nestorian  character.  The  very  an- 
cient copies  of  the  Scriptures  are  regarded  by  the  Nestorians  with 
much  veneration  and  are  used  with  great  care.  They  are  kept 
wrapped  in  successive  envelopes,  and  when  taken  into  the  hands, 
are  reverently  kissed,  as  very  hallowed  treasures.  In  the  village  of 
Kowsee,  is  a  copy  of  the  New  Testament,  which  purports  to  be  fif- 
teen hundred  years  old.  A  few  of  the  first  parchment  leaves  are 
gone  and  their  place  is  supplied  by  paper,  on  which  that  early  date 
is  recorded,  with  how  much  authority  is  uncertain.  The  rubrics, 
in  most  ancient  copies,  moreover,  betray  a  later  origin  than  tradi- 
tion or  their  dates  would  claim  for  them.  I  tried  to  borrow  the 
revered  copy  here  mentioned,  to  bring  with  me  to  America,  as  an 
object  of  interest ;  but  the  Muhammedan  master  of  the  village  in- 
terposed and  forbade  its  being  taken  away,  apprehending  that  some 
dire  calamity  would  befal  the  inhabitants,  should  so  sacred  a  depo- 
sit be  removed  from  among  them.  And  such  is  the  reputation  of 
its  antiquity  and  sanctity,  that  Muhammedans,  as  well  as  Nesto- 
rians, are  sometimes  sworn  upon  that  New  Testament. 

I  find  it  interesting,  in  translating  the  Scriptures,  to  compare  the 
printed  Syriac  version,  as  also  our  own,  with  these  ancient  Syriac 
manuscripts.  Slight  diversities  sometimes  occur,  not  such  as  at  aJl 
to  invalidate  either  as  a  standard ;  but,  by  the  different  location  of 
a  single  dot,  new  light  and  vividness  are  often  thrown  upon  a  pas- 
sage of  Scripture.  A  case  of  this  kind,  for  example,  occurred  in 
Luke  24:  32,  in  relation  to  the  conversation  between  Christ  and  the 
two  disciples  on  their  way  to  Emmaus,  "  Did  not  our  hearts  burn 
within  us,"  etc.  In  the  printed  version,  it  is  yakecd,  burn,  the 
same  as  in  English.  But  my  translator,  a  Nestorian  priest,  ques- 
tioned the  correctness  of  this  reading,  and  on  referring  to  a  Ms.  copy 
of  the  New  Testament,  about  six  hundred  years  old,  instead  of 
yalcted,  burn,  we  found,  yakecr,  heavy,  or  dull;  the  difference  be- 
ing simply  the  location  of  a  point,  which,  in  the  one  case,  being 

almost  innumerable  terms,  on  religious,  moral  and  philosophic  subjects,  from 
the  Greek,  into  their  own  language.  This  word,  Siinhddos,  synod,  and  seve- 
ral of  the  others  which  follow,  are  instances. 


APPEARANCE  AND  GENERAL  CHARACTER. 


17 


placed  below  the  final  letter  of  the  word,  made  it  Baled,  {d,)  and 
in  the  other  case,  placed  above  it,  made  it  Raish,  (r).  According 
to  the  ancient  Ms.,  the  verse  in  question  would  read,  "And  they 
said  one  to  another,  were  not  our  hearts  heavy,  (or  dull,  reproach- 
ing themselves  of  being  slow  of  understanding,)  while  he  talked  to 
us  by  the  way  and  while  he  opened  to  us  the  Scriptures," — a  read- 
ing which  certainly  loses  nothing  of  beauty  or  force,  when  compared 
with  our  own  version. 

Few  as  are  books  among  the  Nestorians,  their  readers  are  scarcely 
more  numerous.  Not  more  than  one  in  two  hundred  of  the  people 
— in  general  only  the  clergy — could  read,  when  we  commenced  our 
labors  among  them.  And  such  as  read  at  all — their  highest  and 
most  influential  ecclesiastics  even — are  very  imperfectly  educa- 
ted. A  majority  of  the  priesthood  can  merely  chant  their  devotions 
in  the  ancient  Syriac,  without  knowing  the  meaning.  Even  some 
of  the  bishops,  among  the  mountains,  are  in  this  predicament. 

We  have  now  about  five  hundred  children  and  youth  in  our 
Seminary  and  schools,  who  possess  as  good  native  talents  as  an 
equal  number  in  any  country,  and  are  successfully  studying  both 
their  ancient  and  modern  tongues ;  and  we  hope,  in  the  progress 
of  our  work,  to  have  many  more  thus  employed.  We  have  freely 
circulated  the  printed  Scriptures,  in  the  ancient  Syriac,  among  such 
as  can  read,  and  have  multiplied  with  the  pen  copies  of  those  por- 
tions of  the  Bible  which  we  have  translated  into  the  spoken  dialect; 
and  the  aid  of  our  printer  and  press,  that  have  happily  com- 
menced operations,  will  enable  us  to  contribute  far  more  rapidly 
and  efficiently  than  we  have  hitherto  done,  to  revive  the  dying  em- 
bers of  literature,  as  well  as  of  pure  religion,  among  this  ancient 
people. 

The  Nestorians,  like  their  Muhammedan  masters  and  neighbors, 
are  very  fine  looking  people.  Their  stature  is  nearly  the  same  as 
our  own.  Their  features  are  regadar,  manly,  intelligent  and  often 
handsome.  And  their  complexion,  were  their  habits  cleanly — par- 
ticularly that  of  the  Nestorians  on  the  high  mountains — would  be 
nearly  as  light*  and  fair  as  that  common  among  Americans.  In 
their  character,  they  are  bold,  generous,  kind,  very  artless  for 
Asiatics,  and  extremely  hospitable.  Oppression,  from  their  Persian 
masters,  has  never  been  able  to  reduce  the  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah, 
to  the  spiritless  servility  of  the  Armenian  Christians.  They  are 
still  brave,  restless  under  oppression,  and  so  far  as  a  subject  people 
can  be,  remarkably  independent  in  their  feelings.  And  on  the  other 
hand,  the  Nestorians  of  the  mountains,  with  all  their  extreme  wild- 
ness,  rudeness,  bold  independence  and  even  ferocity,  still  possess 
the  same  kindness  and  generosity  of  character,  which  are  such  prom- 


*  Mar  Yohannan,  the  Nestorian  bishop  who  visited  the  United  States,  is 
considerably  darker  than  most  of  the  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah.  His  family 
are  noticed  by  the  natives,  as  being  of  dark  complexion. 

3 


18 


ECCLESIASTICAL  ORGANIZATION. 


inent  traits  in  the  people  in  the  province  of  Oroomiah,  There,  the 
hungry  man  will  divide  his  last  piece  of  bread  with  a  stranger,  or 
an  enemy. 

In  the  district  of  Oroomiah,  where  the  Nestorians  are  so  plenti- 
fully supplied  with  the  means  and  comforts  of  living,  they,  as  mat- 
ter of  calculation,  lay  in  libera!  stores  for  their  poor  countrymen  of 
Koordistan,  who,  pinched  with  want  among  their  own  barren  moun- 
tains, come  down  to  the  plain  in  large  numbers,  particularly  in 
winter,  to  seek  temporary  subsistence  on  charity.  This  character- 
istic kindness  and  hospitality  of  the  Nestorians,  which  they  ever 
manifest  to  m,  to  the  utmost  of  their  power,  contribute  much  to 
render  our  residence  among  them  agreeable  and  comfortable. 

Attractive  as  are  their  native  traits  of  character,  it  is  as  nominal 
Christians,  that  the  Nestorians  are  invested  with  the  deepest  in- 
terest. 

The  ecclesiastical  head  of  the  Nestorian  church  is  a  Patriarch, 
whose  residence  is  at  present  at  Diz,  a  village  about  twenty  miles 
from  Julamerk,  in  the  Hakkary  district,  one  of  the  most  inaccessi- 
ble parts  of  the  Koordish  mountains.  Until  a  few  years  ago,  he  re- 
sided at  Kochannes,  a  village  still  nearer  to  the  town  of  Julamerk. 
The  patriarchal  residence  in  any  part  of  the  Koordish  mountains  is 
comparatively  recent — only  from  about  A.  D.  1590.  It  first  result- 
ed from  the  quarrels  of  rival  candidates  and  the  Papal  defection, 
among  the  Nestorians  on  the  western  side  of  the  mountains.  Pre- 
viously, the  patriarch  had  resided  at  Elkoosh.  Earlier  still,  from 
A.  D.  75*2,  at  Bagdad;*  and  originally  at  Seleucia.t 

There  are  properly  nine  ecclesiastical  orders  among  the  Nesto- 
rian clergy,  though  two  or  three  of  them  are  at  present  little  more 
than  nominal.  Beginning  with  the  lowest,  they  are  as  follows,  viz. 
1.  Hvipo  Deeacon,  (sub-deacon,)  who  properly  sweeps  and  lights 
the  church,  as  well  as  takes  some  part  in  their  devotions.  2.  Ka- 
rooya,  (reader,)  a  kind  of  novice,  who  regularly  joins  with  the 
higher  ecclesiastics  in  reciting  the  liturgy,  and  sometimes  assists 
in  the  menial  services  of  the  church.  3.  Shamasha,  or  Deeacon, 
(deacon).  4.  Kasha,  Kashseesha,  or  Kana,  (Priest).  5.  Arka 
Deeacon,  (Archdeacon).  6.  Aboona,  Episcopa,  or  Khalapha, 
(Bishop).  7.  Metran,  or  Metropoleeta,  (Metropolitan).  8.  Kato- 
leeka,  (Catholokos,)  not  a  distinct  individual,  but  an  order  united 
with  that  of  the  Patriarch,  and  one  through  which  he  must  first 
pass,  in  ordination.  9.  The  Patriarch.  All  the  orders  of  the  clergy 
are  ordained  by  the  imposition  of  hands,  from  the  deacon  upward 
to  the  metropolitan  inclusive.  The  Patriarch  does  not  receive  the 
imposition  of  hands,  at  his  consecration,  as  it  cannot  properly  be 
performed  by  inferiors.  And  the  sub-deacon  and  reader  are  not  thus 
set  apart,  unless  they  are  e-xpected  to  rise  to  higher  orders.  No 
ecclesiastic  of  a  grade  below  bishops  has  power  to  ordain.    A  can- 


Asseman,  Vol.  V.  p.  625. 


t  Ibid.  p.  67. 


KE^UISITIONS  IN  THE  EPISCOPAL,  ORDERS.  19 


didate  for  any  clerical  office,  must  pass  through  all  the  inferior  or- 
ders successively,  beginning  with  the  lowest,  though  this  may  be 
done  in  a  single  day,  as  well  as  at  intervals.    The  titles  for  Bishop 
do  not  occur  in  the  Syriac  Scriptures,  Kasheesha,  priest,  (elder, 
presbyter,)  being  always  used  where  the  term  Bishop  occurs  in  the 
English  New  Testament.    Episcopa,  transferred  from  the  Greek, 
is  the  proper  official  title.    Aboona,  our  father,  is  a  more  familiar 
epithet,  which  can  of  course  have  no  primary  application  to  the 
episcopal  office.    The  Nestorians  have  sometimes  applied  it  to  me, 
as  well  as  to  their  own  bishops.    Khalapha  is  the  Arabic  Caliph, 
and  is  used  by  the  Muhammedans  in  Persia  when  speaking  of  chris- 
tian bishops.    It  is  also  applied  there  to  an  order  of  Moollahs  who 
act  as  public  criers  on  state  occasions.    The  term  Mar  is  literally 
lord,  (domiuus,)  the  same  as  is  used  in  the  gospels  and  the  epistles; 
Mdran  dtha,  our  Lord  coraeth,  for  instance,  which  occurs  in  1  Cor. 
16:  22.    It  is  applied  to  the  episcopal  orders  of  the  Nestorian  ec- 
clesiastics in  much  the  same  way  as  our  Dutch  friends  apply  Domine, 
to  their  pastors.    The  office  of  bishop,  though  usually  confined  to 
the  same  family,  is  not  hereditary.    As  very  few  learn  to  read,  a 
nephew  is  often  the  only  candidate  in  a  given  diocese;  and  he  hap- 
pens to  be  instructed  by  his  proximity  to  the  bishop,  who  naturally 
makes  some  provision  for  a  successor.    The  wish  of  the  people  is 
generally  understood  and  consulted  ;  but  episcopal  consecration  still 
depends  on  the  will  of  the  Patriarch.    The  Patriarch  is  clothed  pro- 
perly with  only  spiritual ^owex ;  though  his  influence  is,  in  fact,  far 
more  general.    Among  the  mountaineers,  his  word  is  usually  law, 
in  both  temporal  and  spiritual  matters.    Among  the  Nestorians  of 
Oroomiah,  his  control  is  much  more  limited.    He  does  not  venture 
down  among  them,  probably  from  the  apprehension  that  he  might 
meet  with  embarrassment  from  their  Persian  rulers.    And  being 
thus  beyond  the  reach  of  the  full  exercise  of  his  authority,  the  peo- 
ple in  this  province  have  become  rather  lax  in  their  regard,  even  for 
his  spiritual  prerogatives.    They,  however,  look  up  to  him  with  re- 
spect and  veneration,  and  requite  the  visits  of  his  brothers  among 
them,  which  are  usually  annual,  with  liberal  pecuniary  contribu- 
tions.   Under  the  Nestorian  Patriarch,  are  eighteen  bishops,  four 
of  whom  reside  in  the  province  of  Oroomiah.    They  have  dioceses, 
varying  in  size  from  a  single  village  up  to  ten,  fifteen,  twenty  or 
thirty  villages.    They  ordain  the  inferior  clergy,  make  annual  visits 
to  their  villages  and  exercise  a  general  superintendence. 

The  canons  of  the  Nestorian  church  require  celibacy  in  all  the 
episcopal  orders  of  the  clergy ;  i.  e.  in  all  from  the  bishops  upward. 
They  also  require,  that  from  childhood,  they  abstain  from  the  use 
of  all  animal  food,  except  fish,  eggs,  and  the  productions  of  the  dairy, 
the  latter  requisition  probably  resulting  from  the  former.  They  go 
a  step  farther  back,  in  the  latter  requisition;  the  mother  the  can- 
didate for  the  episcopal  office  must  observe  the  same  abstinence 
while  she  nurses  the  infant,  and,  as  is  asserted,  if  he  is  to  become  a 


20 


RELIGIOUS  BELIEF  AND  CHARACTER. 


Patriarch,  she  must  practise  the  same  regimen  during  the  period  of 
gestation  !  All  who  are  thus  nurtured  do  not  become  bishops  and 
patriarchs,  but  a  selection  is  made  from  such  candidates. 

This  requisition  of  abstinence  from  animal  food  is,  however,  like 
many  of  their  ceremonials,  in  some  cases  softened  down.  Two  of 
the  bishops  of  Oroomiah,  were  never  candidates  for  episcopacy,  un- 
til they  were  about  forty  years  old,  having  eaten  animal,  as  well  as 
vegetable  food,  until  that  period.  One  of  them  was  then  made 
bishop  as  a  special  token  of  the  Patriarch's  favor,  for  important  ser- 
vices which  he  had  rendered,  when  a  deacon,  in  opposing  the  influ- 
ence of  Papal  emissaries ;  and  the  other  obtained  ordination  by  means 
of  interest  exerted  by  his  friends.  Since  becoming  bishops,  both  have 
practised  the  required  abstinence,  though  they  are  far  less  accepta- 
ble, among  their  people,  than  those  who  have  entered  the  office  by 
a  strictly  canonical  initiation. 

I  have  sometimes  questioned  Nestorian  bishops,  in  relation  to  the 
reasons  for  their  practising  celibacy  and  restriction  to  vegetable 
diet.  They  never  attempt  to  base  these  requirements  of  their 
church  on  precepts  of  Scripture ;  but  reply,  that  in  consideration 
of  the  episcopal  office,  these  observances  are  enjoined,  as  matter  of 
propriety,  on  those  entrusted  with  it, — they  being  thus  set  apart  to 
their  high  and  holy  work,  as  a  consecrated  class  of  Nazarites. 
Neither  celibacy  nor  abstinence  from  animal  food,  are  required  of 
the  inferior  clergy ;  nor  do  monasteries  or  convents  exist  among 
the  Nestorians. 

The  Nestorian  clergy,  like  the  laity,  are  usually  poor;  and  with 
the  exception  of  the  episcopal  orders,  they  are  obliged  to  labor  with 
their  hands,  or  teach  a  few  scholars,  to  obtain  a  subsistence.  The 
priests  realize  a  small  pittance,  in  the  form  of  a  trifling  annual  con- 
tribution from  their  flocks,  and  a  scanty  fee  for  marriages  and  some 
other  occasional  services.  The  bishops  are  entitled  to  an  annual 
tax  of  about  two  and  a  quarter  cents,  on  an  individual,  each  from 
his  respective  diocese;  and  this,  in  their  simple  style  of  living  and 
with  no  families  to  support,  may  suffice  for  their  subsistence.  The 
Patriarch  receives  an  annual  contribution,  collected  for  him  by  the 
bishops,  which  usually  amounts  to  two  hundred  and  fifty  or  three 
hundred  dollars. 

The  religious  belief  and  practices  of  the  Nestorians  are  much 
more  simple  and  scriptural  than  those  of  other  oriental  Christians. 
They  have  the  deepest  abhorrence  of  all  image  worship,  auricular 
confession,  the  doctrine  of  purgatory,  and  many  other  corrupt  dog- 
mas and  practices  of  the  Papal,  Greek  and  Armenian  churches; 
while  they  cherish  the  highest  reverence  for  the  Holy  Scriptures, 
and,  in  theory  at  least,  exalt  them  far  above  aJI  human  traditions. 
Their  doctrinal  tenets,  so  far  as  I  have  learned  them,  are,  in  gene- 
ra], quite  clearly  expressed  and  correct.  On  the  momentous  subject 
of  the  divinity  of  Christ,  in  relation  to  which  the  charge  of  heresy 
is  so  violently  thrown  upon  them  by  the  Papal  and  other  oriental 
sects,  their  belief  is  orthodox  and  scriptural. 


STATE  OF  MORALS. 


21 


The  Nestorians  are  very  charitable  towards  other  sects  of  nomi- 
nal Christians — liberal  in  their  views  and  feelings,  and  strongly  de- 
sirous of  improvement.  The  Patriarch  has  repeatedly  written  to  us, 
expressing  his  joy  and  satisfaction  at  our  being  among  his  people, 
his  gratitude  for  our  efforts  for  their  benefit,  and  his  earnest  prayers 
for  our  prosperity.  And  such  has  been  the  language  and,  appa- 
rently, the  feelings  of  all  classes  of  his  people.  The  four  bishops  of 
Oroomiah  and  several  of  the  most  intelligent  priests  are  in  our  em- 
ploy as  assistants  in  our  missionary  labors.  They  are  engaged  in 
the  instruction  and  superintendence  of  schools  and  sabbath  schools  ; 
they  preach  the  gospel,  engage  in  translation,  and  render  other  im- 
portant assistance.  And  the  Patriarch  and  his  brothers  have  often 
pledged  to  us  the  same  cooperation,  whenever  we  should  be  ena- 
bled to  extend  our  labors  into  the  mountains.  Indeed,  the  Nesto- 
rians may,  with  great  propriety,  be  denominated,  the  Protestants 
of  Asia. 

Such  being  their  religious  character,  it  should  cease  to  be  a  mat- 
ter of  wonder,  that  they  have  welcomed  us  so  cordially  to  our  mis- 
sionary labors,  and  that  we  have  hitherto  experienced  not  a  breath 
of  the  violent  opposition  which  has  so  long  hedged  up  the  way  of 
our  missionary  brethren  who  are  sent  to  the  other  Eastern  churches. 
We  arrogate  to  ourselves  no  superior  wisdom,  prudence  or  fidelity. 
The  difference  in  our  case,  as  I  suppose,  consists  simply  in  the 
character  of  the  people  among  whom  we  labor.  With  the  Nestori- 
ans, we  have  a  broad  Jield  of  common  ground,  in  their  acknowledged 
supreme  authority  of  the  Holy  Scriptures  and  other  peculiarities  to 
which  I  have  alluded,  that  exists  among  no  other  oriental  Christians. 
Upon  this  common  ground,  the  clergy  of  this  people  rejoice  to  take 
their  stand  and  lend  us  their  hearty  and  efficient  cooperation.  And 
the  most  influential  part  of  them  being  brought  thus  under  our  im- 
mediate influence — ten  or  twelve  of  them  are  connected  with  our 
families — they  advance  in  intelligence  and  evangelical  views  and 
feelings,  and  keep  pace  with  our  missionary  operations.  And  with 
their  ecclesiastics,  the  people  will,  of  course,  move  forward.  Both 
ecclesiastics  and  people  extend  fellowship  to  us  as  brethren,  enga- 
ged in  a  common  cause,  regarding  our  object  to  be  what  in  truth  it 
is,  not  to  prdl  them  down,  but  to  build  them  up.  And  difficult  in- 
deed would  it  be  for  ua  not  to  reciprocate,  in  a  measure,  at  least, 
the  fraternal  estimation,  in  which  we  are  held,  by  these  Nestorian 
Christians.  Too  much,  however,  should  not  be  inferred  from  these 
statements.  The  Nestorians  are  still,  to  a  painful  extent,  under  the 
influence  of  human,  and  many  childish,  traditions.  They  attach 
great  importance  to  their  periodical  fasts,  which  are  about  as  nu- 
merous as  in  the  other  Eastern  churches,  often  to  the  neglect  of 
integrity  and  purity  of  heart,  and  even  of  external  morality.  As  a 
people,  they  are  deeply  degraded  in  morals.  The  vice  of  lying  is 
almost  universal,  among  both  ecclesiastics  and  people.  Intempe- 
rance is  very  prevalent.  The  Sabbath  is,  to  a  great  extent,  regarded 


22 


mjHAMMEDAN  AND  PAPAL  PROSELYTISM. 


as  a  holiday.  And  profaneness  and  some  other  vices  are  very  com- 
mon. Indeed,  the  mass  of  this  people  seem  literally  to  have  a  name 
to  live,  while  they  are  dead. 

We  may  and  should,  however,  in  the  spirit  of  charity,  make  ex- 
ceptions to  this  dark  picture.  There  are  ecclesiastics  in  our  employ 
and  probably  other  individuals,  both  among  the  clergy  and  the  laity, 
who  are  correct  in  their  external  conduct  and  habitually  serious  in 
their  deportment ;  who  sigh  and  pray  over  the  degradation  of  their 
people,  and  seem  to  be  "waiting  for  the  consolation  of  Israel."  And 
as  the  word  of  the  Lord,  in  the  progress  of  our  labors,  shall  "have  free 
course  and  be  glorified"  among  them,  the  number  of  these  Simeons 
and  Annas  will,  we  trust,  be  rapidly  increased,  until,  as  a  church, 
their  people  shall  become  enlightened,  elevated  and  resuscitated,  by 
the  spirit  and  life  of  the  gospel. 

Such  is  the  venerable  remnant  of  the  Nestorian  Christians,  situa- 
ted in  the  midst  of  the  followers  of  the  False  Prophet,  beset,  on  all 
sides,  by  artful  Romish  emissaries,  and  stretching  forth  their  hands 
to  Protestant  Christendom,  with  the  imploring  cry,  "come  over 
and  help  us." 

The  position  of  the  Nestorians,  in  relation  to  the  enemies  of 
Christianity,  is  alike  trying  and  interesting.  Over  the  broad  chasm 
that  divides  Christianity  and  Muhammedanism,  they  would  doubt- 
less continue,  as  a  mass,  extremely  reluctant  to  leap,  under  almost 
any  temptation  or  coercion.  To  the  honor  of  the  Persians,  too, 
tliey  are  not,  for  Muhammedans,  very  overbearing,  in  their  efforts 
to  proselyte  their  christian  subjects.  Some  hardened  Nestorian 
culprits  are  found  ready,  for  the  sake  of  evading  merited  punish- 
ment, even  to  change  their  religion  ;  and  such  the  Persians  readily 
pardon  on  that  condition.  Nestorian  girls,  too,  are  occasionally 
kidnapped  or  decoyed  away  by  enamored  Mussulman,  and  cajoled 
into  a  profession  of  their  faith  preparatory  to  their  becoming  their 
wives. 

But  from  the  Papists,  with  the  name  and  some  of  the  forms  of 
Christianity,  to  conceal  the  deformities  of  their  system,  the  Nestori- 
ans are  in  far  greater  danger.  Had  we  not  corae  to  their  rescue, 
we  have  reason  to  apprehend,  that  the  incessant  working  of  the  art- 
ful machinations  ot  the  Jesuit  emissaries — their  endless  intrigues — 
their  promises  of  large  sums  of  money,  of  favors  procured,  through 
their  instrumentality,  from  Government,  as  rewards  of  conversion, 
— their  threats  to  bring  the  arm  of  Mussulman  displeasure  against 
such  as  refuse  to  yield,  and  their  actual  oppression,  wherever  they 
can  bring  power  to  their  aid,  would,  in  time,  have  gradually  oblit- 
erated the  Nestorians  and  transferred  the  last  man  of  them  to  the 
Romish  standard.  We  are  here  just  in  time  to  avert  such  a  calam- 
ity. But  every  inch  of  the  ground  is  still  to  be  contested.  Papists 
know  the  importance  of  this  field,  and  Jesuit  emissaries  are  coming 
into  it  like  a  flood.  Here,  as  in  almost  every  part  of  the  world,  the 
Protestant  missionary  must  experience  his  greatest  difficulties  and 


PRESERVATION- 


23 


trials  from  the  opposing  efforts  of  the  agenta  of  the  "Man  of  Sin." 
No  measure  will  be  left  untried  by  them,  for  leading  away  the  Ncs- 
torians  from  the  religion  of  their  fathers  and  subjecting  them  to 
Papal  control.  A  few  years  ago,  a  Jesuit  offered  to  the  Nestorian 
Patriarch  $10,000,  on  condition  that  he  would  acknowledge  allegi- 
ance to  the  Pope  ;  to  whom  the  patriarch  replied,  in  the  emphatic 
language  of  Peter  to  Simon  Magus,  "  Thy  money  perish  with  thee." 
And  of  late,  emissaries  from  Rome  have  tendered  to  him  the  assur- 
ance, that  if  he  will  so  far  become  a  Papist  as  to  recognise  the  su- 
premacy of  their  master,  he  shall  not  only  continue  to  be  Patriarch 
of  the  Nestorians,  but  all  the  Christians  of  the  East  shall  be  added 
to  his  jurisdiction  ?  One  of  the  "  newest  measures"  that  has  been 
reported  to  us,  is  an  order  purporting  to  be  fresh  from  the  Pope  to 
his  agents  in  this  region,  to  canonize  Ncstorius,  whose  name  and 
memory  every  papist  has  been  required,  so  many  centuries,  to  curse, 
— and  to  anathematize  the  Lutherans — i.  e.  the  Protestant  mission- 
aries, with  whom  they  propose  also  to  class  such  of  the  Nestorians  as 
shall  not  go  over  to  the  ranks  of  the  Papists  !  Strange,  that  we,  ob- 
scure men,  away  in  this  distant  part  of  the  world,  should  be  honor- 
ed with  such  special  attention  from  "  His  Holiness  !"  And  it  may  per- 
haps be  doubtful,  whether  such  an  order  was  actually  issued  from 
Rome,  or  merely  fabricated  by  her  emissaries  here,  who  have  doubt- 
less, in  matters  of  policy,  much  discretionary  power.  Its  object 
and  effect  would  in  either  case  be  the  same.  The  Nestorians,  how- 
ever, fully  understand  this  suprising  change,  in  the  Papal  estima- 
tion of  Nestorius,  as  designed  merely  to  decoy  them  ;  and  they 
spurn  the  high  honor  thus  proffered.  And  as  to  being  classed  with 
the  Lutherans,  (Protestants,)  a  brother  of  the  Nestorian  Patriarch 
and  his  designated  successor,  (who  was  with  us  at  the  time  this  new 
canonization  was  reported,)  told  the  Papists,  that  he  regarded  it  as 
an  honorable  and  enviable  distinction. 

As  already  remarked,  papal  efforts  have  succeeded,  during  the 
last  century  and  a  half,  in  accomplishing  their  object  on  the  western 
side  of  the  Koordish  mountains, — sometimes  drawing  individuals, 
or  families ;  and  sometimes  bishops,  and  in  one  or  two  instances,  a 
Patriarch,  with  the  major  part  of  their  flocks,  over  to  the  Romish 
standard.  But  in  the  province  of  Oroomiah,  and  among  the  Koord- 
ish mountains.  Papal  influence  has  hitherto  been  very  limited.  The 
Nestorians  of  these  regions  have  nobly  resisted,  and  our  prayer  and 
hope  is,  that  they  may  thus  continue  to  resist,  the  intrigues  and  as- 
saults of  the  '  enemies  of  all  righteousness.'  Destitute  of  vital  re- 
ligion and  subjected  to  strong  temptation,  their  condition  is  perilous. 
Our  confidence  is  in  the  Lord  to  keep  them.  "  If  God  be  for  us, 
who  can  be  against  us  V 

Is  not  the  almost  miraculous  preservation  of  the  Nestorian 
church,  from  being  crushed  by  the  heavy  arm  of  Muhammedan  op- 
pression on  the  one  hand,  and  decoyed  and  annihilated  by  the  wiles 
of  papal  emissaries  on  the  other,  an  animating  pledge  that  the  Lord 


24 


POSITION  AND  PROSPECTS. 


of  the  church  will  continue  to  preserve  this  venerable  remnant  ? 
That  He  will  even  revive  and  build  it  up,  for  the  glory  of  his  name 
and  the  advancement  of  his  kingdom  !  May  he  not  have  important 
purposes  for  this  church  to  accomplish — a  conspicuous  part  for  it  to 
act — in  ushering  in  the  millennial  glory  of  Zion]  What  position 
could  be  more  important  and  advantageous,  in  its  bearing  on  the 
conversion  of  the  world,  for  a  christian  church  to  hold,  than  that  oc- 
cupied by  the  Nestorians,  situated  as  they  are,  in  the  centre  of  MQ- 
hammedan  dominion,  and  far  toward  the  centre  of  benighted  Asia! 
And  is  it  too  much  to  believe,  that  this  ancient  church,  once  so  re- 
nowned for  its  missionary  efforts,  and  still  possessing  such  native 
capabilities,  as  well  as  such  felicity  of  location,  for  the  renewal  of 
like  missionary  labors,  will  again  awake  from  the  slumber  of  ages, 
and  become  clear  as  the  sun,  fair  as  the  moon,  and  terrible  as  an 
army  with  banners,  to  achieve  victories  for  Zion  !  That  it  will 
again  diffuse  such  floods  of  the  light  of  truth  as  shall  put  forever  to 
shame  the  corrupt  abominations  of  Muhammedism,  roil  back  the 
tide  of  Papal  influence  that  is  now  threatening  to  overwhelm  it,  and 
send  forth  faithful  missionaries  of  the  cross,  in  such  numbers  and 
with  such  holy  zeal,  as  shall  bear  the  tidings  of  salvation  to  every 
corner  of  benighted  Asia! 

I  confidently  look  for  such  results,  and  that  at  no  very  distant 
period,  from  the  humble  efforts  which  the  American  churches  are 
now  putting  forth,  for  the  revival  of  religion  among  their  Nestorian 
brethren.  These  efforts  should  be  vigorously  prosecuted  ;  for  a 
great  preparatory  work  remains  to  be  done,  in  this  fallen  church, 
and  a  momentous  crisis  is  approaching.  The  signs  of  the  times,  in 
this  eastern  world,  betoken  the  speedy  approach  of  mighty  political 
revolutions.  Muharamedan  powers  are  crumbling  to  ruins.  Chris- 
tian nations- are  soon  to  rule  over  all  the  followers  of  the  False 
Prophet.  Turkey  and  Persia  are  tottering  to  their  centres,  and 
would  fall  at  once  of  their  own  weight,  were  they  not  held  up  by 
rival  European  governments.  The  universal  catastrophe  of  Mii- 
hamraedan  dominion  cannot,  in  all  human  probability  be,  in  this 
way,  much  longer  postponed.  And  as  the  Religion  of  the  False 
Prophet  was  propagated  and  is  sustained  by  the  sword,  so  its  over- 
throw, there  can  be  little  doubt,  will  quickly  ensue,  when  the  sword 
shall  be  taken  from  its  hands. 

The  Nestorians,  therefore,  as  well  as  the  other  oriental  churches, 
should  be  quickly  enlightened  and  prepared  to  take  advantage  of 
the  approaching  changes, — ready  to  plant  the  standard  of  the  cross 
on  the  ruins  of  .the  crescent,  whenever  the  trembling  fabric  of  Is- 
lamism  shall  fall,  and  push  the  conquest  of  the  gospel  still  onward, 
as  fast  as  so  mighty  a  revolution  in  the  circumstances  and  prospects 
of  this  continent  shall  open  the  way.  This  done,  and  how  soon 
would  the  kingdoms  of  this  world  become  the  kingdom  of  the  Lord 
Jesus  Christ ! 


ORIGIN  OF  THE  MISSION. 


25 


CHAPTER  II. 

ORIGIN  AND  COMMENCEMENT  OF  THE  MISSION  TO  THE 

NESTORIANS. 

Thr  mission  to  the  Nestorians  was  undertaken,  in  consequence 
of  the  favorable  representations  given  of  the  field,  by  the  Rev,  Eli 
Smith  and  Rev.  H.  G.  O.  Dwight  who  visited  their  country,  in  ac- 
cordance with  Instructions  from  the  Prudential  Committee  of  the 
American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions,  in  the 
Spring  of  1830,  while  on  the  missionary  tour  which  they  made 
through  Armenia  and  into  Persia,  the  results  of  which  are  publish- 
ed in  their  valuable  "  Researches."  "Another  company  of  wan- 
dering shepherds,"  say  the  Prudential  Committee,  in  their  Instruc- 
tions to  those  missionaries,  "  will  present  themselves  to  your  atten- 
tion, in  Koordistdn,  southward  of  Armenia.  A  hundred  thousand 
of  the  Koords  are  said  to  be  Nestorians,  subject  to  hereditary  pa- 
triarchs. So  large  a  body  of  nominal  Christians  deserve  a  visit  to 
the  residence  of  at  least  one  of  their  spiritual  heads."*  This  para- 
graph, in  the  Instructions  to  Messrs.  S.  and  D.  may  properly  be 
said  to  have  given  rise  to  our  mission.  They  did  not  visit  the  Nes- 
torian  Patriarch,  for  reasons  stated  in  their  report,  from  which  I  ex- 
tract the  following,  viz.,  "  We  were  extremely  anxious  to  extend 
our  journey  into  the  heart  of  the  Koordish  rnountains,  and  visit  in 
person  Mar  Shimon  and  the  independent  Nestorians.  But  all  our 
English  friends  at  Tabreez  united  in  declaring  that  region  entirely 
inaccessible.  Not  that  among  the  Nestorians  themselves  we  should 
not  be  well  received  and  be  perfectly  safe,  but  the  Koords  who  sur- 
round them  are  treacherous  and  blood-thirsty  robbers,  entirely  be- 
yond the  control  of  the  Persian  government.  Dr.  Shultz,  a  learned 
German,  travelling  under  the  auspices  of  the  king  of  France,  had 
lately  succeeded  in  reaching  Kochannes ;  and  the  Patriarch  and  his 
people  treated  him  well ;  but  on  his  return  he  was  murdered,  by 
the  very  guard  which  had  been  given  him  by  a  Koordish  beg  for  his 
protection. "t  The  visit  of  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight  to  the  Nes- 
torians of  Oroomiah  was  short, — of  only  a  few  days'  duration  ;  but 
it  was  most  interesting  in  its  character.  I  can  also  best  give  an 
idea  of  their  impressions  of  the  people  and  of  the  field  by  inserting 
a  paragraph  or  two  from  their  report  to  the  American  Board. 

"  To  the  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah  we  would  especially  direct  your 
attention.    That  Abbas  Meerza  would,  without  doubt,  patronize 

*  Missionary  Herald,  Vol.  26,  page  75. 
t  Researches  in  Armenia,  Vol.  II.  page  253. 
4 


26 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  FIELD. 


missionary  efforts  for  their  improvement,  and  in  fact  for  the  im- 
provement of  all  his  christian  subjects,  we  received  the  unanimous 
testimony  of  all  the  members  of  the  English  Embassy.  Equally 
decided  assurance  was  given  us  that  missionary  families  in  Oroo- 
miah  would  be  secure  from  any  oppression;  for  besides  being  fa- 
vorably regarded  by  the  prince,  the  ambassador  also  would  protect 
them.  Among  others  who  accorded  with  these  sentiments,  were 
two  gentlemen  who  had  resided  some  time  in  that  province;  and 
one  of  them  added  that  the  climate  is  very  fine.  Our  impression, 
respecting  the  climate,  from  the  location  of  the  district  and  the 
dampness  and  fertility  of  the  soil,  is,  that  it  must,  at  certain  seasons 
of  the  year,  be  hot  and  productive  of  febrile  affections.*  To  the 
hostile  incursions  of  the  predatory  Koords,  too,  it  seems  to  us  evi- 
dent that  Oroomiah  must  be  exposed,  whenever  the  government 
of  Persia  is  disturbed,  by  either  internal  or  foreign  causes.  But 
we  must  not  calculate  too  closely  the  chances  of  life.  Missionaries 
to  any  part  of  the  great  field,  the  world,  should  ever  go  forth  with  a 
martyr's  spirit — '  hazarding  their  lives  for  the  name  of  our  Lord 
Jesus  Christ.' 

"  That  religious  instruction  is  needed  by  the  Nestorians,  this  and 
the  preceding  letter  will  have  sufficiently  convinced  you.  How  it 
would  be  received  by  them,  experiment  alone  can  determine.  We 
cannot  but  refer  you,  however,  to  their  extreme  liberality  toward 
other  sects — their  ideas  of  open  communion,  and  their  entire  rejec- 
tion of  auricular  c<mfession,  (that  efficient  police  system  of  the  other 
old  churches,)  as  considerations  which  have  produced  in  our  minds 
a  firm  conviction,  that  a  mission  to  the  Nestorians  would  meet  with 
far  fewer  obstacles,  than  among  any  other  of  the  old  churches. 
The  week  that  we  passed  among  them  Tt'Ss  among  the  most  in- 
tensely interesting  of  our  lives^r— for  myself,  I  felt  a  stronger  desire  to 
settle  among  them  at  once  as  a  missionary,  than  among  any  people 
I  have  ever  seen.  Self-denying  indeed  and  laborious  would  be  the 
lot  of  a  missionary  in  Oroomiah.  But  let  hira  enter  the  field  with 
the  self-devotion  which  reconciled  Brainerd  to  a  wigwam,  and  in- 
spired Martyn  with  that  noble  sentiment — *  Even  if  I  never  should 
see  a  native  converted,  God  may  design,  by  my  patience  and  con- 
tinuance in  the  work  to  encourage  future  missionaries,' — and  con- 
tentment will  also  be  the  portion  of  his  cup.  And  as  he  plants  one 
truth  after  another,  in  the  mind  of  an  ignorant  Nestorian,  and  sees  it 
take  root  and  bear  fruit,  thus  restoring  to  the  oldest  of  christian 
sects,  '  the  faith  once  delivered  to  the  saints,'  and  beginning  the 
conquests  of  Christianity  where  it  has  never  triumphed,  a  joy  which 
the  world  knows  not  of  will  likewise  be  his.  He  will  feel  also  the 
advantage  of  his  position  ;  that  he  has  found  a  prop,  upon  which  to 
rest  the  lever  that  will  overturn  the  whole  system  of  Mahammedan 

•  These  impressions,  our  experience  lias  proved  to  be  very  correct.  The 
climate  is  trying  to  foreigners,  producing  fevers,  and  fever  and  ague,  to  an  al- 
most unequalled  extent. 


APPOINTiVENT  TO  THE  MISSION. 


27 


delusion,  in  the  centre  of  which  he  has  fixed  himself;  that  he  is 
lighting  a  fire  which  will  shine  out  upon  tlie  corruptions  of  the  Per- 
sian on  the  one  side,  and  upon  the  barbarities  of  the  Koord  on  the 
other,  until  all  shall  cotne  to  be  enliglitened  by  its  brightness,  aod 
the  triumph  of  faith  will  crown  his  labor  of  love."*  How  correct  and 
judicious  were  these  views  of  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight — short  as 
their  stay  was  among  the  people — will  abundantly  appear,  in  the 
course  of  this  volume,  as  tested  by  our  nine  years' experiment. 

The  American  Board  justly  regarded  it  of  the  first  importance  to 
commence  a  mission  in  so  promising  a  field,  with  the  least  practi- 
cable delay, — particularly,  as  the  simple-hearted  Nestorians  were 
in  such  immediate  and  imminent  danger  of  being  led  astray,  by  the 
ever-watchfui,  wily  and  active  emissaries  of  Papal  Rome. 

It  was  in  January  1833,  soon  after  the  report  of  Messrs.  Smith 
and  Dwight  was  presented  to  the  Prudential  Committee  and  before 
it  was  published,  that  I  received  my  appointment  to  commence  the 
mission. 

I  was,  at  that  time,  a  tutor  in  Amherst  college,  and  had  cherished 
the  expectation  of  returning  to  the  Theological  Seminary  at  Ando- 
ver,  at  a  subsequent  period,  and  spending  a  third  year  there,  having 
been  previously  but  two  years  connected  with  that  favored  institution. 
In  view  of  the  urgency  of  the  case,  however,  I  regarded  it  as  clearly 
my  duty  to  forego  that  privilege — a  decision  that  was  urged  by  the 
secretaries  of  the  Board,  and  sanctioned  by  the  venerable  professors 
of  the  Seminary.  Accepting  the  appointment,  I  immediately  com- 
menced preparation  for  my  mission,  though  I  continued  my  labors 
at  Amherst  college,  until  nearly  the  time  contemplated  for  my  em- 
barkation. 

So  little  was  then  known  of  that  distant  and  untried  field — the 
name  of  the  people  being  hardly  known  out  of  Asia,  save  to  the 
student  of  church  history — and  so  short  the  period  allowed  me  to 
prepare  for  it,  that  it  was  deemed  highly  important  I  should  take  a 
passage  in  the  same  vessel  with  Mr.  Smith,  as  far  as  Malta,  on  his 
return  from  a  visit  to  the  United  States  to  his  own  field  in  Syria, 
that,  bv  the  opportunity  of  familiar  conversations,  thus  afforded,  on 
the  way,  I  might  gain  possession  of  the  facts  which  he  had  collected 
and  the  suggestions  which  his  previous  missionary  experience  might 
enable  him  to  make,  relative  to  our  future  operations  among  the 
Nestorians.  This  arrangement  was  highly  prized  by  myself ;  for 
hardly  could  one  enter  upon  an  enterprise,  with  a  deeper  conscious- 
ness of  weakness  and  incompetence  for  so  great  and  responsible  a 
work,  than  I  felt  at  that  time. 

We  received  our  Instructions  together,  in  the  chapel  of  the  Theo- 
logical Seminary  at  Andover,  Sabbath  evening,  Sept.  8,  1833,  ar- 

*  Researches,  Vol.  II.  p.  2G4.  I  may  liere  remark  in  general  of  those 
"  Researches,"  that  having  had  the  best  opportunity  to  test  tlie  value  and  ac- 
curacy of  the  work,  I  can  pronounce  it  one  of  very  rare  merit,  on  the  coun- 
tries and  subjects  of  which  it  treats. 


28 


INSTRUCTIONS. 


rangements  having  been  made  for  our  embarkation,  in  the  course  of 
the  same  week.  These  Instructions  have  never  been  published. 
Their  reference  to  the  Nestorian  Mission,  containing,  as  tliey  do, 
the  principles  on  which  our  operations  were  commenced  and  have 
hitherto  been  conducted,  as  well  as  their  intrinsic  excellence  and 
general  interest,  induce  me  to  give  to  the  reader,  in  this  connexion, 
that  portion  of  them  which  pertained  to  our  field.  They  were  pre- 
pared and  delivered  by  Rev.  Rufus  Anderson,  one  of  the  secretaries 
of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.  That  part  addressed  to  Mr.  Smith  in  par- 
ticular, is  omitted  as  having  no  direct  reference  to  our  mission. 

"In  the  Instructions  given  to  a  company  of  missionaries,  that 
recently  embarked  for  Ceylon,  various  objects  were  stated  as  coming 
properly  within  the  range  of  duties  incumbent  upon  the  Board.  It 
was  described  as  an  educating  society,  a  translating  society,  a  so- 
cictij  for  printing  and  distributing  books,  and,  preeminently,  a  so^ 
ciety  for  preaching  the  gospel.  It  is  appropriate  to  your  mission, 
to  mention  and  illustrate  another  prominent  object  of  our  institution. 

"  The  Committee  would  state,  then,  that  the  Board  is,  emphati- 
cally, a  society  for  observation.  The  condition  of  the  world  must 
be  ascertained,  before  it  can  be  improved;  and  it  is  surprising  how 
little  information,  suited  to  our  purpose,  is  obtainable  from  the  whole 
body  of  those  travellers  whose  investigations  have  been  prompted  by 
mere  secular  motives.  How  often  has  Western  Asia,  for  instance, 
been  traversed  by  such  persons.  Yet,  missionary  societies  find  it 
almost  as  necessary  to  investigate  those  countries,  as  if  those  men 
had  never  travelled.  The  politician,  the  soldier,  the  geographer, 
the  antiquarian,  the  man  of  mere  taste,  and  the  man  of  mere  in- 
satiable curiosity,  are  all  of  use  to  us,  as  travellers;  but  we  are 
obliged  to  send  after  them  our  own  messenger,  with  special  instruc- 
tions, before  we  can  safely  venture  upon  an  extensive  system  of 
missionary  operations.  So  that  our  investigations,  as  you  perceive, 
will  necessarily  be  coextensive  with  the  ground  which  we  would  oc- 
cupy. 

"  And  the  exploration  and  the  actual  occupation  of  the  ground, 
are  parts  of  our  great  work  which  are,  in  some  respects,  distinct. 
We  may  send  out  missions  merely  for  the  purpose  of  investigating. 
We  may  explore  on  a  far  more  extensive  scale  than  we  can  occupy. 
We  may  lay  open  the  condition  of  the  world,  long  before  we  can 
make  it  fully  acquainted  with  the  gospel.  Indeed,  we  must  search 
out  different  countries,  before  we  can  determine  which  of  them  af- 
fords the  most  eligible  fields  of  labor.  *  *  *  * 

"  How  much  further  it  will  be  advisable  for  the  Board  to  extend 
its  posts  of  observation,  must  be  referred  to  that  Providence,  which 
is  so  rapidly  multiplying  facilities  and  inducements  to  hasten  the 
publication  of  the  gospel  among  all  nations.  A  joint  and  solemn  re- 
sponsibility does  certainly  rest  upon  the  several  missionary  societies 
of  Christendom,  to  lose  no  time  in  making  a  full  report  to  the 


ADVANTAGEOUS  POSITION. 


29 


churches,  of  the  condition  of  the  heathen  world,  and  of  all  that  is 
necessary  for  its  spiritual  regeneration.  The  object  demands  the 
greatest  talents,  the  highest  attainments,  and  the  most  exahed  spirit 
of  devotedness  to  Christ.  And  the  number  requisite  for  this  object 
is  comparatively  small.  A  few  self-denying  men,  of  sound  judg- 
ment, comprehensi?e  views,  and  cultivated  intellect,  might  explore 
a  nation.  Twenty  or  thirty  such  men  would  suffice  for  all  central 
Asia,  south  of  the  Russian  empire.  Planting  themselves  upon  the 
route  pursued  by  Alexander,  when  he  advanced  upon  the  Indus,  and 
also  in  Cabul,  Cashmire  and  Bukhara,  they  might  pour  certainty 
over  a  vast  region,  which  has  long  been  given  up  to  doubtful  con- 
jecture. 

"And  how  desirable  that  this  part  of  our  work  be  speedily  ac- 
complished— that  the  whole  world  be  laid  open  to  the  view  of  the 
church — tliat  all  its  abominations  and  miseries  be  seen,  and  all  its 
cries  of  distress  be  heard ;  which  indicate  a  world  diseased  and 
perishing  for  lack  of  the  gospel.  Then  will  the  church  find  it  no 
longer  possible  to  sleep,  and  no  longer  possible  to  forbear  acting  on 
a  scale  commensurate  with  the  work  to  be  done. 

"  The  groans  of"  nature,  in  this  nether  world, 
Which  heaven  has  heard  for  ages,  have  an  end, 
Foretold  by  Propliets,  and  by  poets  sung 
Whose  fire  was  kindled  at  the  Prophet's  lamp, 
The  time  of  rest,  tlie  promised  Sabbath  comes. 
Six  thousand  years  of  sorrow  have  well  nigh 
Fulfilled  their  tardy  and  disastrous  course 
Over  a  sinful  world  ;  and  what  remains 
Of  this  tempestuous  state  of  liuman  things, 
Is  merely  the  working  of  a  sea 
Before  a  calm,  that  rocks  itself  to  rest : 
For  He,  whose  car  the  winds  are,  and  the  clouds, 
The  dust  that  waits  upon  his  sultry  march. 
When  sin  hath  moved  him  and  his  wrath  is  hot, 
Shall  visit  earth  in  mercy  ;  shall  descend 
Propitious  in  his  chariot  paved  with  love, 
And  what  his  storms  have  blasted  and  defaced 
For  man's  revolt,  shall  with  a  smile  repair." 

"  Your  particular  field  of  inquiry  and  labor  is  to  be  the  Syrian 
church,  and  especially  that  part  of  it,  denominated  Ncstorian;  and 
your  residence,  for  the  present,  will  be  in  Oroomiah,  just  within  the 
western  borders  of  Persia.  The  position  you  are  to  occupy,  is  not 
only  interesting,  in  relation  to  the  Nestor ians,  but  it  is  in  the  very 
centre  of  Muhammedism,  and  on  the  dividing  line  between  the  two 
great  sects  of  that  false  religion.  On  the  east  of  you  will  be  the 
Shiite,  who  receive  only  the  Koran  as  of  divine  authority :  and  on 
the  west,  will  be  the  Soonee,  who  hold  not  only  to  the  Koran,  but 
also  to  the  traditions  of  their  elders.  You  go  also  where  least  is 
known  concerning  the  oriental  churches  ;  but  where,  possibly,  their 
rites  and  ceremonies  are  less  perverted,  than  in  the  parts  of  Asia 
more  accessible  to  the  power  and  influence  of  Rome. 


30 


FIRST  OBJECTS  OF  ATTENTION. 


You  will  remember  the  antiquity  of  this  branch  of  the  church  of 
Antioch,  and  how  extensively  its  doctrines  were  once  diffused,  and 
with  what  zeaJ  and  success  it  once  supported  christian  niisisions, 
among  the  tribes  and  nations  of  Central  and  Eastern  Asia. 

The  Committee  are  anxious  to  associate  a  physician  with  you  in 
this  enterprise,  and  will  procure  one  as  soon  as  possible.*  It  is  not 
thought  best,  however,  that  you  should  wait  in  this  country  for 
a  colleague.  You  will  proceed  immediately  to  Constantinople, 
and  there,  for  a  number  of  months,  will  avail  yourself  of  the  best 
facilities  afforded  by  that  city,  for  acquiring  the  language  spoken 
by  the  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah.  Your  best  route  from  Constanti- 
nople to  the  field  of  your  mission,  will  probably  be  by  water  to  some 
port  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Black  Sea;  thence  to  Tabreez,  in 
Persia,  by  way  of  Tifliis,!  the  capital  of  Georgia,  a  distance  by  land 
of  perhaps  600  miles.  From  Tabreez  to  Oroomiah  is  not  far  from 
100  miles.J  The  shorter  route  to  Tabreez,  through  Erzroom,  will 
probably  be  found  too  rough  and  hazardous  to  be  attempted  by 
your  missionary  companion. 

"  Your  first  duty  among  the  Nestorians,  will  be  to  cultivate  an 
intimate  acquaintance  with  their  religious  opinions  and  sentiments. 
You  are  aware  that,  excepting  the  information  collected  by  Messrs. 
Smith  and  Dwight,  during  the  few  days  they  were  among  the  Nes- 
torians, almost  all  we  know,  concerning  that  sect,  in  modern  times, 
is  derived  from  Papal  writers.  The  learned  investigations  of  some 
of  these  entitle  them  to  high  honor,  and  may  be  of  great  use  to  you, 
in  the  way  of  furnishing  topics  for  inquiry  :  but  the  committee  wish 
the  information  which  you  communicate,  concerning  the  present 
state  of  the  Nestorian  church,  to  be  the  result  of  your  own  careful, 
personal  investigations;  at  least,  to  be  thus  corroborated.  The 
churches  of  this  country  ought  to  be  accurately  informed  as  to  the 
number  of  the  Nestorians,  their  places  of  residence,  their  doctrines, 
rites,  morals,  education,  etc.  Whether  you  will  be  able,  at  present, 
with  a  due  regard  for  personal  safety,  to  penetrate  the  Koordish 
mountains,  and  visit  the  Nestorian  Patriarch,  at  his  residence  near 
Julamevk,  is  very  doubtful.  But  the  journey  should  be  performed 
as  soon  as  may  be,  lest  interested  and  perverse  men  should  preju- 
dice his  mind  against  you.  Your  tours,  however,  should  be  few 
and  short,  until  you  are  familiar  with  the  language  spoken  by  the 
people.  Interpreters  in  those  countries,  are  never  to  be  trusted  with 
less  confidence,  than  in  those  delicate  and  critical  cases,  in  which 
it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  for  you  to  understand  the  meaning  of 


*  The  committee  found  it  so  difficult  to  procure  a  physician,  that  none 
reached  us,  as  will  be  seen,  until  more  than  two  years  after  our  own  em- 
barkation. 

t  Better  acquaintance  with  the  subject  led  us  to  choose  the  route  by  Erz- 
room. 

t  About  140  miles,  the  route  being  circuitous  ai-ound  the  end  of  the  lake. 


MAIN  OBJECTS. 


31 


language  addressed  to  you,  and  to  make  your  own  language  per- 
fectly understood  by  others. 

"A  primary  object  which  you  will  have  in  view,  will  be  to  con- 
vince the  people,  that  you  come  among  them  with  no  design  to  take 
away  their  religious  privileges,  nor  to  subject  them  to  any  foreign 
ecclesiastical  power.  The  only  acknowledged  head  of  the  church 
to  which  you  belong,  is  Jesus  Christ,  and  your  only  authoritative 
standard  in  ecclesiastical  matters,  is  the  New  Testament.  The 
Syrian  church  acknowledges  the  same  head,  and  also  the  same  stan- 
dard, though  it  may  be,  with  some  additions.  You  will  have,  there- 
fore, a  broad  common  ground  on  which  to  stand  ;  besides  the  in- 
valuable privilege  of  never  being  compelled  in  argument,  to  draw 
your  proofs  from  any  other  source  than  the  Holy  Scriptures,  nor  to 
defend  anything  else  as  the  rule  of  your  faith  and  practice.  In  this 
view,  you  will  rejoice  in  the  liberty  wherewith  Christ  has  made  you 
free.  Yet  would  the  Committee  caution  you  against  saying  too 
much  on  these  points.  You  will  not  gain  the  confidence  of  the 
people  by  mere  declarations  ;  for  in  no  part  of  the  world  do  asser- 
tions, however  positive,  go  for  less  than  in  Western  Asia.  You 
must  not  expect,  even  to  be  believed,  until  the  people  have  studied 
your  character  and  your  life,  and  have  thus  learned  to  esteem  you 
as  a  man  and  to  confide  in  you  as  a  disciple  of  the  Lord  Jesus. 

"  But  your  main  object  will  be,  to  enable  the  Nestorian  church, 
through  the  grace  of  God,  to  exert  a  commanding  influence  in  the 
spiritual  regeneration  of  Asia.  The  idea  of  supplying  the  world 
fully  with  preachers  of  the  gospel  from  lands  now  called  Christian, 
is  chimerical.  It  never  will  be  done.  Even  our  great  western  val- 
ley is  learning,  that  the  main  body  of  its  future  preachers  must  be 
trained  upon  its  own  soil.  The  same  is  true  of  the  world.  Its 
main  stated  supply  of  religious  instructors  must  be  indigenous,  and 
not  exotic — trained  in  the  midst  of  the  people  whom  they  are  to  in- 
struct, and  belonging  to  the  people.  This  is  a  fundamental  princi- 
ple in  the  operations  of  the  Board  under  whose  direction  you  are  to 
labor ;  which  you  see  developed  in  the  Ceylon  mission  and  beginning 
to  show  itself  in  the  Sandwich  Islands.  With  the  blessing  of  hea- 
ven,  the  church  of  Antioch  will  be  reedifted  chiefly  by  means  of 
her  own  sons.  A  blow  must  be  aimed  at  the  cause  of  spiritual  ig- 
norance among  the  people,  by  imbuing  the  clergy  with  a  knowledge 
of  the  Holy  Scriptures ;  and  this  grand  result  must  be  secured 
throughout  the  Syrian  church,  through  the  vast  region  from  the 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean  to  the  mountains  of  southern  India. 
At  the  same  time,  the  Scriptures,  which  happily  exist  entire  in  the 
Syriac  language,  should  be  freely  circulated,  and  schools  establish- 
ed for  the  education  of  children.  The  mission  of  the  English  church 
missionary  society,  among  the  Syrian  Christians  of  Malabar,  will  be, 
in  some  respects,  a  model  for  your  own.  Our  object  is  the  same 
with  theirs,  and  the  people  are  supposed  not  to  be  essentially  dif- 
ferent. 


32 


CAUTIONS  TO  BE  OBSERVED. 


"  It  is  not  the  design  of  the  Committee  to  embarrass  you  with 
minute  instructions,  in  reference  to  a  field  concerning  which  they 
know  so  little.  They  can,  indeed,  do  scarcely  more  than  point  to 
the  object  you  should  have  in  view,  and  then  leave  you  to  the  guid- 
ance of  that  wisdom  which  cometh  from  above  and  is  equally  attain- 
able, in  all  parts  of  the  world.  You  will  need  it  at  every  step  of 
your  progress,  and  especially  at  the  outset  of  your  mission.  For 
you  commence  your  mission  in  circumstances,  which  are  in  many 
respects  peculiar,  and  by  no  means  fully  ascertained.  The  mis- 
takes to  which  you  will  be  constantly  liable,  will  be  unaccompanied 
with  the  data  by  which  to  calculate  their  consequences.  You  will 
need  to  be  wise  in  speech,  and  wise  in  action;  and  every  day,  and 
every  hour  of  the  day,  and  always,  to  be  kind,  frank,  patient,  con- 
descending, gentle.  The  people  will  be  most  inclined  to  converse 
with  you  on  subjects,  upon  which  you  ought  to  say  the  least.  Let 
the  cross  of  Christ  be  your  standing  theme.  To  the  Jews  it  is  a 
stumbling  block,  and  to  the  Greeks  foolishness:  but  still,  it  is  a 
subject  always  safe  to  converse  upon  in  the  spirit  of  love,  and  it  is 
the  power  of  God  unto  salvation  to  every  one  that  believetb. 

"  It  is  proper  to  caution  you  to  beware,  in  your  personal  inter- 
course with  the  people,  of  whatever  may  be  construed  as  having  a 
political  bearing.  In  their  present  state  of  civil  depression  and  dis- 
content, this  will  often  be  difficult ;  but  the  necessity  is  imperative 
and  the  duty  unquestionable. 

"  While  prosecuting  your  main  object,  you  will  inquire  for  re- 
cords, that  will  throw  light  upon  the  history  of  ancient  missions  in 
Central  and  Eastern  Asia.  These  are  properly  sought  in  the  Syrian 
chronicles,  as  there  is  strong  reason  to  believe  that  the  Syrian  church, 
at  an  early  age,  carried  the  gospel  into  the  very  heart  of  China. 
It  is  possible,  too,  that  convents*  among  the  fastnesses  of  the  Koor- 
dish  mountains  contain  valuable  manuscripts  of  the  New  Testament 
in  the  Syriac  language. 

"With  respect  to  the  Muhammedans,  and  the  adherents  of  the 
Papal  church,  you  will  do  them  good  as  you  have  opportunity. 
Ascertain  how  far  the  sect  of  Papists  called  Chaldeans,  differs  from 
the  Nestorians.  Neglected  as  they  are  by  the  mother  church  at 
Rome,  they  may  have  lost  her  peculiar  antipathy  to  the  word  of 
God,  if  they  ever  possessed  it,  and  be  willing  to  receive  the  holy 
Scriptures  at  your  hands.  Their  origin,  language  and  proximity 
will  give  them  a  strong  claim  upon  your  attention  ;  nor  is  it  proba- 
ble that  you  can  make  much  impression  upon  Mussulman,  until  they 
see  more  of  the  fruits  of  the  gospel  among  its  professed  believers 
around  them. 

"  But,  in  the  clamor  of  distress  arising  from  the  thousand  pitia- 
ble objects  around  you,  let  not  the  lessons  of  experience  be  forgot- 


**  No  convents,  as  already  stated,  now  exist  among  the  Nestorians. 


SICKNESS  AT  ANDOVER. 


33 


ten.  Concentrated  effort  is  effective  effort.*  There  is  such  a  thing 
as  attempting  too  much.  Many  a  missionary  has  attempted  sucli 
great  things,  and  so  many,  on  entering  a  new  field,  that  he  has 
accomplished  little,  and  perhaps  done  notliing  as  he  ought  to  have 
done.  Your  surveys  may  extend  over  a  great  surface  ;  but  a  richer 
and  speedier  harvest  will  crown  your  labors,  if  your  cultivation  is 
applied  to  a  single  field. 

"  May  you,  and  your  beloved  partner,  be  long  spared  for  the  Mork 
on  which  you  are  about  to  enter.  It  is  a  self-denying,  but  delight- 
ful and  glorious  work.  Be  faithful  unto  death ;  then  will  you  nev- 
er regret  your  self-consecration  to  the  missionary  service,  nor  the 
solemn  designation  of  this  evening,  nor  the  parting  scenes  of  the 
approaching  embarkation,  nor  the  residence  for  life  in  countries  re- 
mote from  home  and  native  land.  Nor  will  you  be  forgotten.  Some 
of  these  brethren  will  follow  you,  to  share  in  your  privations  and 
your  toils ;  and  all  of  them,  wherever  dispersed  as  ministers  of  the 
Lord  Jesus,  will  remember  you  in  their  prayers,  and  procure  for  you 
the  prayers  of  others.  You  will  be  remembered  in  these  halls  of 
sacred  science,  and  in  yonder  hallowed  walks,  so  dear  to  you,  and 
to  so  many  of  our  brethren  now  far  off  in  heathen  lands.  Yes,  and 
the  fathers  here  will  remember  you,  who  have  fanned  the  mission- 
ary flame  on  this  holy  hill  of  Zion,  ever  since  it  was  kindled  by  Mills 
and  others  now  in  glory ;  and  so  will  their  respected  associates ;  vand 
they  will  pray  for  you,  and  see  that  the  prayers  of  the  saints  ascend 
for  you  here,  at  the  daily  sacrifice.  And  the  church  will  remember 
you  ;  for  the  church  has  awoke,  and  is  putting  on  the  beautiful  gar- 
ments of  her  priesthood  unto  God,  and  never  more  will  she  cease 
to  pray,  for  the  spiritual  renovation  of  the  world.  Long  has  she 
lain  in  the  dust;  but  she  will  lie  there  no  longer ,  for  the  set  time 
to  favor  Zion  is  come,  the  time  of  her  redemption  and  of  the  world's 
illumination.  No,  the  devoted  servant  of  Jesus  Christ,  who  from 
love  to  his  Master  and  to  the  souls  of  men,  ventures  liis  life  upon 
the  high  places  of  the  field,  need  fear  no  more  that  he  shall  be  for- 
gotten by  the  church;  and  to  him  especially  appertains  the  blessed- 
ness of  that  sublime  promise,  '  Lo,  I  am  with  you  alway,  even 
unto  the  end  of  the  world.'  " 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  inform  the  reader  that  during  the  nine 
years  of  my  missionary  labors,  I  have  found  little  occasion  to  depart, 
or  dissent,  from  principles  so  scriptural  and  sound,  and  views  so  in- 
telligent and  clear,  as  those  contained  in  the  foregoing  Instructions. 

The  excitement  and  pressure  of  our  hasty  preparation  had  so 
prostrated  my  system,  that  at  the  close  of  the  impressive  services  of 
this  public  designation  I  found  myself  scarcely  able  to  walk  to  my 

*  This  precept  has  not  only  become  a  3tand'inff  motto,  with  me,  but  as  my 
experience  and  observation  have  increased,  it  has  acquired  in  my  estimation 
almost  the  force  of  an  oracle. 


34 


EMBARKATlOfT. 


lodgings,*  and  was  reluctantly  compelled,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life", 
to  yield  to  the  strong  arm  of  a  violent  fever.  Hopes  were,  at  first, 
entertained  that  my  disease  might  be  early  arrested,  and  our  vessel 
accordingly  lingered,  a  few  days,  for  my  recovery-  My  fever,  how- 
ever, baffled  all  the  means  used  to  check  it,  and  the  result  of  it  be- 
ing at  length  regarded  as  doubtful,  it  was  concluded  that  Mr.  Smith 
must  proceed  without  me.  But  the  day  aRer  my  disease  finally  left 
me,  intelligence  reaching  us  that  the  vessel  in  which  we  had  expected 
to  sail  was  still  detained  in  the  harbor  by  adverse  winds,  I  requested 
my  physician  to  place  me  in  a  wagon  and  carry  me  to  Boston,  in 
the  hope  of  still  being  able  to  secure  the  important  advantage  of  per- 
forming the  voyage  m  company  with  Mr.  Smith.  To  my  proposi- 
tion to  this  effect,  the  physician  readily  yielded,  as  he  was  himself 
of  the  opinion  and  had  already  assured  me,  that  could  I,  without  too 
much  exhaustion,  be  placed  on  board  the  vessel,  my  recovery  would 
be  rapidly  advanced  by  the  effects  of  sailing.  The  first  day  on 
which  I  was  raised  from  my  pillow  and  dressed,  I  was  therefore  put 
upon  a  bed,  and  I  rode  thus  twenty  miles  to  Boston ;  and  the  next 
day,  Sept.  21,  1833,  was  carried  on  board  the  Brig  George,  (of 
Boston,  Capt.  Grosier,)  and  laid  in  my  berth,  and  we  immediately 
sailed-  Never  did  my  heart  swell  with  livelier  emotions  of  thankful- 
ness to  God,  than  when  my  feet  were  placed  upon  the  deck  and  I 
took  my  last  look,  as  I  supposed  forever,  of  my  native  land.  So 
unexpected  was  the  privilege  of  doing  this  according  to  our  original 
arrangement,  that  the  dreaded  pangs  of  the  last  parting  with  friends 
Were  all  swallowed  up  and  forgotten  in  the  overflowings  of  my  grat- 
itude and  joy.  Our  embarkation  in  those  circumstances  was  natu- 
rally trying  to  Mrs.  Perkins,  who  was  apprehensive  for  the  conse- 
quences on  me.  But  her  fortitude,  whicla  was  destined  to  encoun- 
ter still  severer  tests,  was  adequate  to  the  trial. 

The  captain  of  our  vessel,  as  he  afterwards  told  me,  remarked  to 
his  mate,  when  I  was  lifted  on  board,  "  we  shall  very  soon  be  oblig- 
ed to  throw  that  man  overboard."  But  so  rapid  was  my  recovery, 
that  the  tender  assiduities  of  the  first  evening,  lavished  upon  me  by 
Mrs.  Perkins  and  the  very  estimable  and  now  departed  Mrs.  Smith, 
helpless  almost  as  an  infant  as  I  then  lay  in  my  berth,  were  in  a 
day  or  two  reciprocated  by  me  towards  them, — they  being  pros- 
trated by  sea-sickness  under  the  fury  of  the  equinoctial  storm  which 
met  us  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor ;  and  I,  as  soon  and  by  the  same 
influence,  under  the  blessing  of  God,  being  raised  to  a  degree  of 
strength  that  enabled  me  immediately  to  walk  about,  and  in  a  few 
days  to  a  far  better  state  of  health  than  I  had  long  before  enjoyed, 
and  which  alone  could  have  sustained  me  under  my  subsequent 
hardships  and  labors.  Had  I  contemplated  niy  adventurous  em- 
barkation in  the  strength  and  soberness  of  health,  I  should  probably 

*  At  the  house  of  the  Rev.  H.  Bardwell,  for  whose  kindness  and  that  of  his 
ladj  during  my  sickness,  I  was  laid  under  great  obligations. 


SUDDEN  CHANGE  OF  CIRCUMSTANCES. 


35 


have  been  deterred  from  the  undertaking.  But  I  have  often  in  the 
retrospect  gratefully  recognized  the  providential  arrangement,  by 
which  my  system  was  thus  prepared  by  sickness  and  medical  treat- 
ment, and  I  was  led  as  by  the  hand  of  God,  almost  unconsciously 
on  my  part,  to  commence  that  voyage  at  just  the  moment  most 
favorable  for  deriving  from  it  the  highest  practicable  benefit. 


CHAPTER  III. 


VOYAGE  TO  MALTA. 


A  greater  transition  can  scarcely  be  conceived  than  that  which 
the  missionary  experiences  in  passing  suddenly  from  the  hurry  and 
bustle  of  preparation,  parting  with  friends  and  the  excitement  of  his 
embarkation,  to  the  long  jmd  close  confinement  of  a  sea  voyage  in  a 
merchant  vessel.  If  the  romance  of  the  missionary  enterprise  have 
not  already  been  dissipated,  by  the  reality  and  nearness  in  which  the 
matter  is  presented,  by  his  designation  to  a  particular  field,  and  other 
attending  incidents  before  his  embarkation,  it  will  at  least  not  long 
survive  on  his  passage.  Thrown  at  once  from  a  scene  of  active  la- 
bors and  extensive  and  cheerful  intercourse  with  friends  and  the 
churches,  into  a  cahin  of  a  few  feet  dimensions,  which  is  to  be  his 
prison  for  weeks  or  months — not  indeed  in  solitary  confinement, 
but  crowded  together  with  several  companions,  each  of  whom  must 
have  his  quota  of  the  straitened  accommodations — soon  tossed  by 
the  fury  of  winds  and  storms — prostrated  by  sea-sickness — saddened 
by  his  changed  and  depressed  condition — and  still  more,  by  the 
sombre  visages  of  his  fellow  sufierers  around  him — and  with  the 
dreary  prospect  of  the  same  state  of  things  during  his  whole  voyage, 
the  last  vestige  of  romance  will  soon  be  expelled.  This  severe  or- 
deal of  the  passage,  however,  is  by  no  means  without  impor- 
tant advantages  to  the  missionary.  Indeed,  it  is  just  the  kind  of 
sober,  sifting  discipline  which  he  most  needs.  It  is  an  excellent 
school  of  patience.  He  cannot  fly  to  his  field  more  swiftly  than 
the  calms  as  well  as  the  winds  will  permit  him  to  go  ;  nor  command, 
on  the  way,  a  wider  sphere  for  the  exercise  of  his  glowing  zeal,  than 
the  vessel  affords.  He  may,  and  should,  do  all  that  he  c^n  judiciously 
attempt,  by  occasional  conversations,  and  the  distribution  of  tracts,  as 
well  as  by  preaching  the  gospel  on  the  Sabbath,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
crew.  But  his  tardy  progress  and  contracted  sphere  will  serve  much 


36 


ADVANTAGES  TO  BE  DERIVED. 


to  prepare  him  patiently  and  cheerfully  to  spend  lingering  months 
over  dictionaries  and  grammars,  before  he  can  speak  the  language  of 
the  people,  in  his  field ;  and  to  despise  not  the  day  of  small  things, 
when  prepared  to  engage  in  more  active  labors  there.  Daily,  too, 
he  encounters  nameless  and  numberless  inconveniences  and  annoy- 
ances, from  his  confined  situation,  which  he  had  never  elsewhere 
experienced,  but  which  will  contribute  much  to  qualify  him  to  bear 
quietly  the  far  more  numerous  and  trying  vexations,  that  will  con- 
stantly assail  him  and  severely  tax  his  patience,  in  the  course  of  his 
missionary  life. 

His  voyage  will  also  afford  him  an  excellent  opportunity  for  self- 
examination.  However  much  he  may  have  been  before  occupied 
with  other  concerns,  and  tempted  to  neglect  the  scrutinizing  of  his 
own  religious  condition,  he  now  has  time  and  retirement  carefully 
to  canvass  his  feelings — particularly  the  motives  that  have  led  him 
to  desire  and  undertake  so  great  a  work;  and  if  his  missionary  zeal 
be  in  any  measure  spurious,  it  may  be  corrected  in  this  '  middle 
passage;'  and  whatever  be  its  character,  he  will  thus  be  much 
chastened  and  strengthened  and  prepared  the  better  to  meet  and 
sustain  his  future  cares,  trials  and  toils. 

His  voyage  is  also  an  important  prelude  to  the  seclusion  of  mis- 
sionary life.  Taken  from  the  social  and  religious  enjoyments  and 
privileges  of  country  and  home,  and  set  down  suddenly  a  solitary 
pilgrim,  amid  the  wide  spread  moral  desolations  of  his  distant  field, 
the  loneliness  of  his  situation  would  be  intolerable  and  he  would 
quickly  sink  under  it.  It  is  a  wise  provision  of  Providence,  that  he 
has  a  gradual  initiation  to  his  future  solitude,  while  on  the  way  to 
the  scene  of  his  labors. 

His  voyage  is  also  a  good  school  for  the  cultivation  of  the  graces 
of  forbearance  and  christian  politeness.  In  the  confined  limits  of  a 
small  cabin,  with  several  fellow  passengers,  and,  (77iissio7iarics 
though  they  be,)  each  having  at  least  some  ideas  of  his  private 
rights  and  convenience,  these  personal  prerogatives  are  very  liable, 
especially  under  the  assaults  of  the  common  foe — sea-sickness — to 
be  more  or  less  infringed.  Mutual  forbearance  must  be  put  in 
requisition  to  excuse  and  forget  such  infringements ;  and  chris- 
tian  politeness  will  come  in  to  its  aid,  in  the  spirit  of  the  scrip- 
ture, "  Let  no  man  seek  his  own,  but  every  man  another's  good," 
as  well  as  by  laboring,  habitually,  to  diffuse  cheerfulness  and  good 
nature  through  the  community,  instead  of  giving  way  to  the  sullen 
churlishness  and  peevishness  to  which  the  circumstances  of  the  case 
may  strongly  tempt  one  to  yield;  and  which  are  often  considered  as 
affording  such  feelings  a  strong  apology,  if  not  fully  to  authorize 
them.  It  is  surprising  what  an  amount  of  happiness  and  improvement 
may  be  secured  or  sacrificed,  in  a  small  company  of  pajssengers,  in 
the  course  of  a  single  voyage,  by  attention,  or  non-attention,  to  mat- 
ters of  this  kind. 

One's  time,  on  the  voyage,  may  also  be  more  or  less  improved  if 


IMPROVEMENT  OF  TIME. 


37 


a  measure  of  system  be  practised;  especially,  if  he  be  but  little 
troubled  with  sea-sickness.  I  happen  to  be  one  of  the  favored  few, 
who  suffer  little  from  that  unwelcome  guest  of  the  passengers'  cabin. 
On  my  way  to  Persia,  I  suffered  none  at  all  from  it,  probably  in 
consequence  of  my  previous  severe  course  of  fever,  from  which  I 
was  recovering ;  and  I  enjoyed  a  degree  of  vigor  and  buoyancy, 
both  bodily  and  mental,  during  that  time,  which  I  have  seldom 
known  in  more  favorable  circumstances.  In  addition  to  prosecut- 
ing a  large  amount  of  reading  and  inquiry  on  subjects  pertaining  to 
my  missionary  work,  I  read  a  considerable  part  of  the  text-books  of 
the  third  year's  course  atAndover,  having  been  deprived,  in  hasten- 
ing to  my  field,  of  that  year's  study.  And  so  happy  were  our  mis- 
sionary community,  in  our  circumscribed  situation,  that  I  look  back 
on  few  portions  of  my  life  with  more  satisfaction,  than  on  our 
voyage  to  Malta  and  thence  to  Constantinople.  And  as  suggested 
in  the  preface,  the  arrangement  and  copying  for  the  press,  and  the 
preparation  of  some  of  the  matter,  of  a  considerable  part  of  this  vol- 
ume, are  the  fruits  of  ray  voyage  on  my  return  to  America. 

We  embarked,  as  already  stated,  Sept.  21, 1833,  in  the  '  George,' 
of  Boston,  Capt.  Grozier.  Our  vessel  was  a  fine  brig,  of  270  tons  ; 
and  as  there  was  a  house  (cabin)  on  deck,  for  the  use  of  the  officers, 
the  passengers — our  missionary  company  of  four — had  the  cabin  be- 
low entirely  to  themselves.  This,  together  with  two  state  rooms,  fur- 
nished accommodations  superior  to  what  is  common  in  merchant 
vessels.  Our  captain,  too,  was  a  very  gentlemanly  man,  and  spared 
no  pains  to  render  our  passage  pleasant  and  comfortable.  The  cir- 
cumstances of  our  embarkation,  I  mentioned  in  the  preceding  chap- 
ter; I  give  them  here  as  they  were  hastily  noted  down,  when  I  be- 
came able  to  use  my  pen. 

Sept.  21.  Saw  Mr.  Smith  early  in  the  morning.  He  told  us  that 
he  was  about  as  much  surprised  to  hear  of  my  arrival  from  Andover 
the  evening  before,  as  though  it  had  been  announced  that  I  had 
dropped  down  from  the  clouds  in  the  thunder  shower  that  overtook 
us  just  as  we  arrived.  He  proposed  to  prepare  my  effects,  as  soon  as 
possible,  as  the  captain  would  like  to  sail  in  the  afternoon.  He  ac- 
cordingly attended  to  my  affairs  in  the  forenoon.  I  rested  till  3  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  then  took  a  seat  in  a  coach  with  Mrs.  Perkins  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Stoddard,*  and  rode  to  the  wharf — was  lifted  on  board 
the  vessel  and  laid  in  my  berth.  No  company  was  allowed  to  ap- 
proach me,  except  two  or  three  beloved  friends,  whose  parting  bene- 
dictions were  precious  cordials  at  that  hour.  Prayer  was  offered  by 
Rev.  Dr.  Jenks,  and  the  appropriate  hymn,  commencing,  "  Roll  on, 
thou  mighty  ocean,"  was  sung  on  deck  ;  and  about  4  o'clock  a  fine 
breeze  filled  our  canvass  and  wafted  us  away  from  our  native  sPiores. 
I  felt  not  the  least  misgiving,  but  was  almoet  overcome  with  emo- 


*  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Charles  Stoddard,  to  wliose  kindness  and  hospitality  we 
were  much  indebted  during  onr  short  stay  in  Boston. 


38 


JOURNAL.  AT  SEA  A  STORM. 


tions  of  gratitude  to  God,  that  I  was  permitted  to  embark  at  that 
time.  Only  the  day  previous,  I  was  so  weak  as  to  be  unable, 
save  with  much  difficulty,  to  stand.  Now,  I  lay  quiet  and  happy  in 
my  berth  on  my  way  to  Persia.  Bless  the  Lord,  my  heart  reite- 
rated, for  his  signal  mercy,  in  thus  providentially  detaining  our  ves- 
sel and  raising  me  so  speedily  from  a  bed  of  illness,  to  prosecute  my 
contemplated  mission.  Our  effects  were  scarcely  arranged,  before 
Mrs.  Perkins  and  Mrs.  Smith  became  exceedingly  sea-sick. 

The  monotony  of  a  sea-voyage  furnishes  very  little  incident. 
The  missionary's  journal  on  the  ocean  is  apt  to  be  much  like  the 
log-book  of  the  vessel, — made  up  of  calms — storms — head-winds — 
squalls  and  occasional  fair-winds.  If  the  log-book  is  more  regu- 
larly kept  and  promises  utility  to  future  mariners,  the  Journal  as  a 
counterpart,  will  have  more  sea-sick  entries.  The  following  pages 
from  mine  may  furnish  a  comment  on  these  remarks,  as  also  show 
the  manner  in  which  we  employed  our  time,  and  the  general  tenor 
of  things  on  our  voyage. 

Sept.  22.  The  wind  was  high  and  the  sea  rough.  The  ladies 
kept  their  berths.  It  was  rather  a  gloomy  Sabbath.  I  was  not  sea- 
sick at  all ;  but  my  weak  state  obliged  rae  to  keep  still.  I  sat 
wrapped  in  my  cloak  in  the  cabin,  while  my  companions  were  con- 
fined to  their  state  rooms  and  their  berths. 

Sfipt.  23.  The  equinoctial  storm  prevailed  with  great  violence. 
Neither  of  the  ladies  left  her  berth  during  the  day.  Mr.  Smith  was 
also  ill,  but  employed  himself  in  taking  care  of  the  rest. 

Sr.pt.  24.  The  storm  raged  terribly  during  the  last  night.  Sel- 
dom is  the  sea  more  rough  and  dangerous.  The  ladies  suffered  al- 
most intolerably  from  sea-sickness.  But  about  eight  o'clock  this 
morning  the  sun  came  out :  the  wind  shifted  round  to  the  north- 
west ;  and  the  aspect  of  things  was  entirely  changed.  The  ladies 
left  their  berths  for  the^rsf  time  since  the  evening  we  embarked, 
and  went  on  deck,  where  they  spent  several  hours  and  were  greatly 
relieved  and  refreshed.    1  was  very  comfortable,  but  still  weak. 

Sept.  26.  From  conversation  with  the  captain,  I  found  that  the 
storm  of  the  night  of  the  23rd  was  far  more  terrible  than  we  had  re- 
alized. Botli  the  captain  and  mate  remarked,  that  they  had  never 
encountered  such  a  storm  before.  The  main  top-sail,  which  was 
perfectly  new,  was  split  from  top  to  bottom.  We  lay  quietly  in 
our  berths  almost  unconscious  of  the  perils  around  us;  at  least,  we 
felt  happy  in  the  confidence  that  God  was  our  Protector.  I  regret- 
ted that  I  had  not  been  well  enough  to  visit  the  deck  and  see  the 
sublimity  of  the  warring  elements,  in  such  a  storm  on  the  ocean. 

Sept.  27.  For  the  first  time,  I  took  a  seat  at  the  captain's  table. 
We  were  all  early  on  deck.  I  was  much  regaled  by  the  fresh  breeze 
and  delighted  with  the  appearance  of  the  ocean.  We  struck  a  shoal 
of  porpoises.  Hundreds,  perhaps,  were  sporting  together.  The 
captain  tlirew  his  harpoon  at  one  and  hit  him,  but  did  not  retain 
him.    The  wounded  one  gave  the  alarm  and  all  in  a  twinkling  fled. 


COIVtMOTlON  IN  tHE  CABIN  RETROSPECT.  39 


Sept.  28.  Rose  a  little  after  four  o'clock  and  had  a  most  delight- 
ful walk  on  deck.  In  the  course  of  the  night,  there  had  been  a 
heavy  shower  and  high  gales  of  wind  in  which  the  fore  top-sail  was 
split  its  whole  length.  The  wind  was  very  boisterous,  during  ihe 
day,  and  the  waves  ran  almost  literally  "  mountain  high."  The 
sublimity  of  the  scene  was  altogether  indescribable.  Fortunately, 
the  wind  was  in  the  right  direction  and  hurried  us  on  at  the  rapid 
rate  of  nine  miles  an  hour. 

Our  cabin  was  in  such  commotion,  that  we  were  obliged  to  tie 
our  books  upon  the  table.  I  was  engaged  half  the  afternoon  in 
making  tape  loops  for  the  purpose.  At  our  dinner,  too,  we  found 
it  impossible  to  retain  our  plates  before  us,  notwithstanding  the 
small  rack,  attached  to  the  table,  to  keep  them  in  their  places.  A 
sudden  lurch  of  the  vessel  would  often  disloge  them  and  hurl  both 
plates  and  their  contents  against  the  sides  of  the  cabin, 

Sept.  29.  The  bustle  occasioned  by  the  high  winds  and  seas  for- 
bade our  hallowing  the  Sabbath  by  any  public  exercises.  In  the 
afternoon,  the  wind  subsiding  a  little,  we  went  on  deck  and  sung 
several  beautiful  hymns. 

"  There  is  a  land  of  pure  delight. 
Where  saints  immortal  reign," 

was  a  particular  favorite  with  Mrs.  Smith, — a  land  of  which  she  is 
now  doubtless  a  happy  inhabitant.  Our  singing  arrested  the  atten- 
tion of  the  captain  and  mates,  who  drew  around  us  and  seemed 
charmed  with  the  music  and  the  hymns. 

Sept.  30.  In  looking  back  upon  the  previous  three  or  four  weeks, 
I  seemed  to  myself  like  one  awaking  from  a  dream.  My  recollec- 
tion was  quite  indistinct  of  all  that  had  passed  during  that  period. 
The  two  weeks  I  lay  ill  at  Andover,  and  the  mode  of  my  being  car- 
ried to  Boston,  appeared  like  a  blank.  I  had  afterward  rapidly  re- 
covered, but  could  scarcely  realize  what  had  transpired, — that  I  had 
actually  left  America  and  was  in  the  midst  of  the  Atlantic  ocean. 
I  felt  also  deeply  concerned  for  my  friends  who  must  be  long  tor- 
tured with  solicitude  respecting  me,  embarking  as  I  did  in  feeble 
health. 

Oct.  1.  Mrs.  Perkins,  for  the  first  time,  after  the  evening  we  em- 
barked, took  a  seat  at  the  captain's  table.  She  was  much  better 
than  at  any  previous  time  since  her  illness  commenced.  After  tea, 
we  walked  a  while  on  deck.  The  western  skies  were  like  sheets 
of  burnished  gold.  The  sun,  after  setting,  sent  back  his  splendors 
half  way  up  to  the  zenith,  almost  as  bright  as  noon-day.  We  all 
remained  on  deck,  enjoying  the  brilliant  scene,  until  quite  dark,  and 
then  reluctantly  retired  to  our  cabin. 

As  an  evening  exercise,  Mr.  Smith  read  a  section  from  the  "  Lis- 
tener," a  late  entertaining  English  work, — and  a  chapter  from  his 
"Researches."  The  latter  I  found  to  be  particularly  interesting, 
as  I  was  to  pass  over  a  part  of  the  same  ground  which  he  had  trav- 


40  CABIN  BOY-^OCCUPATION' — BLACK  FISH. 


elled,  and  wished  to  ask  questions  and  comment  on  the  chapters  as 
we  read  them ;  and  it  was  equally  an  object  with  him  to  read  it  in 
this  social  manner,  that  he  might  make  any  corrections  that  should 
occur  to  us,  in  order  to  prepare  it  for  a  second  edition.*  After 
our  evening  devotions,  I  enjoyed  a  delightful  walk  on  deck, 
by  moon  light.  Such  an  evening  is,  if  possible,  more  delightful  on 
the  ocean  than  on  land.  The  whole  surface  had  a  silvery  lustre  as 
if  sprinkled  with  gems;  and  a  broad  belt  directly  under  the  moon 
sparkled  and  glittered  like  the  galaxy  in  the  skies. 

Oct.  4.  The  captain  remarked,  that  foreign  lads  are  usually  sought 
by  American  captains  as  cabin  boys,  and  assigned  as  a  reason,  that 
native  boys  are  not  sufficiently  submissive,  Americans  scorn  to  be 
slaves.  The  almost  instinctive  principle  of  vassalage  which  quali- 
fies the  European  child  for  a  cabin  boy,  is  unfelt  and  unknown  in 
our  free  states.  May  the  sacred  spark  of  freedom  which  glows  so 
early  in  American  bosoms,  in  the  low  as  well  as  the  high,  never  be 
smothered,  but  blaze  forth  and  spread  itself  throughout  the  worldv 
We  had  a  young  Sardinian  cabin  boy.  I  cannot  conceive  in  what 
his  enjoyment  could  consist.  He  was  constantly  on  the  alert,  watch- 
ing the  eye  and  the  nod  of  his  master, — trembling  like  an  aspen 
leaf  and  apparently  almost  afraid  to  breathe. 

To-day,  we  made  an  arrangement  in  the  cabin  to  economise  our 
time.  We  proposed  to  spend  three  hours,  each  day,  in  intellectual 
employment  together,  viz.,  two  in  reading,  and  one  in  conversation. 
These  three  hours  are  from  nine  to  ten  o'clock^  A.  M. ;  from  three 
to  four  P.  M. ;  and  from  seven  to  eight  in  the  evening.  The  rest 
of  our  time  we  spend  in  private  reading  and  study,  or  otherwise,  ac- 
cording to  the  state  of  the  Weather  and  personal  convenience.  Our 
subject  for  convdrsation,  to-day,  was  "  little  things,"  as  affecting 
our  happiness  and  usefulness. 

Oct.  5.  The  morning  was  calm, — so  much  so  that  there  was  not 
a  ripple  on  the  face  of  the  water  except  those  made  by  the  vessel ; 
a  very  agreeable  time,  to  be  sure,  if  we  could  divest  ourselves  of  the 
consciousness,  that  in  a  calm  we  make  no  progress.  Dull  as  it  was, 
however,  the  sameness  was  pleasingly  interrupted  by  some  incidents. 
We  had  a  sight  of  the  black  fish.  Two  appeared,  some  distance 
ahead,  sporting  nimbly  in  the  water.  They  were  about  twenty  feet 
long  and  well  proportioned.  They  are  valuable  only  for  oil.  One 
will  furnish  perhaps  two  barrels.  A  beautiful  land  bird  also  sought 
a  resting  place  for  the  sole  of  its  foot  on  our  vessel.  It  kept  with 
us  most  of  the  day,  and  once  came  even  into  our  cabin  window. 
Like  the  dove  after  the  flood,  so  this  little  adventurer  seemed  to 
point  us  to  a  resting  place  after  the  tossing  of  weeks  on  the  billows 
of  the  mighty  deep.  It  probably  came  from  the  Western  Islands, 
then  five  or  six  hundred  miles  to  the  eastward  of  us.    Next  in  or- 


*  W(?  mucli  regret  thit  this  second  edition  his  not  yet  appeared.  We 
hope  it  will  be  isjued  ere  lonn^,  as  the  book  has  been  so.Tie  years  out  of  print. 


THE  DOLPHIN  PHOSPHORIC  GEMS. 


41 


der,  a  large  turtle  made  his  appearance.  The  captain  ordered  the 
jolli/  boat  to  be  let  down  for  pursuit.  As  the  men  were  hastening 
to  disencumber  the  boat  of  its  fastenings,  their  confusion,  before 
getting  it  down,  waked  up  the  turtle,  which  generally  sleeps  when 
he  floats  upon  the  surface,  and  he  suddenly  made  off.  Soon,  how- 
ever, his  head  again  appeared  at  a  distance  to  the  watchful  eye  of 
the  captain  ;  the  boat  was  instantly  let  down ;  two  men  rowed  off 
with  the  captain  for  the  booty  ;  they  soon  came  up  with  him  and 
the  captain  was  so  successful  as  to  seize  him  with  his  hands  as  he 
lay  sleeping  and  floating  in  the  water.  He  was  a  fine  large  fellow, 
weighing  probably  about  seventy  pounds.  The  cook  soon  com- 
menced despatching  him,  with  all  the  formality  of  a  slaughter-house  ; 
and  well  he  might;  for,  a  few  moments  after  the  first  blow,  the  deck 
was  covered  with  currents  that  would  almost  have  led  one  to  sup- 
pose that  an  ox,  instead  of  a  turtle,  had  been  tlie  victim.  The  tur- 
tle is  very  tenacious  of  life.  This  one  showed  all  his  native  dispo- 
sition to  bite  long  after  the  entrails  had  been  removed,  and  even  af- 
ter the  head  was  severed  from  the  body.  Last  in  the  train  of  the 
visitors  that  relieved  the  monotony  of  the  calm,  that  day,  was  a 
shoal  of  dolphins.  The  appearance  of  this  beautiful  fish  fully  real- 
izes the  ideas  which  I  had  formed  of  it.  Those  we  saw  were  as 
large  as  the  shad  of  Connecticut  river.  They  are  often  found  lar- 
ger— sometimes  three,  and  even  five  feet  in  length.  The  captain 
sent  his  harpoon  into  the  shoal,  struck  one  and  killed  it.  The 
beautiful  creature  sunk  to  the  bottom  as  if  to  deprive  us  of  the  en- 
tertainment we  had  anticipated  of  inspecting  it  on  deck.*  The  shoal 
of  course  took  the  alarm  at  the  disaster  of  a  comrade  and  fled  in- 
stantly away. 

Our  calm  also  enabled  us  to  take  hold  of  divers  things,  in  busi- 
ness-style,  or,  as  the  sailors  say,  ship-skape.  For  the  first  Ume,  we 
all  jumped  the  rope  on  deck — the  ladies  not  excepted — for  exer- 
cise; and  were  all  seen  icriting  together,  in  the  cabin.  The  latter 
scene,  I  had  supposed  before  embarking,  would  be  one  of  the  ear- 
liest and  most  common  on  board.  But  illness  prevented.  Mrs. 
Perkins  had  not  taken  her  pen  till  that  day;  and  Mrs.  Smith  phed 
hers  for  the  first  time,  the  day  previous. 

Oct.  6.  The  holy  Sabbath.  The  weather  was  still  pleasant,  and 
Mr.  Smith  conducted  religious  worship,  for  the  first  time,  on  deck. 
The  ofiicers  and  sailors  were  very  attentive.  Tome,  the  scene  was 
new  and  deeply  impressive.  In  the  evening,  we  were  entertained 
by  a  remarkably  vivid  appearance  of  phosphoric  gems  in  the  water. 
It  almost  seemed  that  the  ocean  was  on  fire.  The  captain  told  me 
that  this  appearance  is  occasioned  by  the  collection  of  a  substance 
in  the  water,  somewhat  resembling  jelly.  I  have  heard  no  other 
explanation  of  it,  though  this  hardly  satisfied  me. 

*  The  back  of  this  fish  is  sometimes  purple — sometimes  bright  green — and 
in  other  cases  a  slaty  color.  Below  it  is  light,  which  changes  to  a  golden 
hue  when  the  fish  is  dying. 

6 


42' 


PILOT  FISH  ISLAND  OP  FLORES. 


Oct.  7.  A  dull  head  wind.  I  commenced  reading  Mosheim's 
Church  History.  In  the  evening  we  attended  monthly  concert.  Tt 
was  delightful  to  approach  the  same  mercy  seat,,  at  the  same  hour, 
witli  our  friends,  though  so  widely  separated  from  them. 

Oct.  8.  A  pleasant  morning  held  out  the  prospect  of  a  fair  wind. 
This  was  very  grateful  to  us  all  ;  and  it  was  interesting  to  observe 
what  an  air  of  good  nature  and  glee  was  spread  over  the  whole  ves- 
sel by  it,  after  our  long,  strong  head  wind. 

Oct.  9.  Commenced  reading  Abercrombie  on  the  Intellectual 
Powers,  continued  Mosheim,  and  commenced  teaching  the  ladies 
Greek.  With  these  exercises,  and  with  our  two  hours'  reading  the 
"Researches;"  half  an  hour,  poetry;  and  one  hour  engaged  in 
conversation ;  I  find  myself  very  well  occupied :  but  I  feel  so  vigo- 
rous, in  my  returning  health,  that  I  am  out  of  my  ele.ment  if  unem- 
ployed a  moment. 

Oct.  14-  I  observed  the  pilot-'Jish — a  small  fish  six  or  eight  inches 
in  length — of  a  purple  back,  silvery  sides,  and  beautifully  crossed 
with  lateral  stripes  of  a  light  reddish  hue.  It  is  the  practice  of  this 
little  fish  to  follow  vessels  and  act  as  a  pilot  to  sharks  and  other 
monsters  of  the  deep,  and  from  this  circumstance  it  derives  its 
name. 

Mrs.  Smith  and  Mrs.  Perkins  continued  successfully  their  lessons 
in  Greek,  without  having  ever  looked  into  a  grammar.  I  suspect  that 
this  may  be  the  correct  method  of  studying  a  language.  They  soon 
became  able  to  prepare  a  lesson,  in  the  New  Testament,  for  constru- 
ing and  parsing,  merely  from  my  oral  instruction.  We  dispensed 
with  the  use  of  grammars,  not  from  choice,  but  because  our  books 
were  in  boxes  in  the  hold  of  the  vessel  and  not  accessible.  The 
privation  proved  to  be  no  disadvantage. 

Oct.  16.  Rose  at  five  o'clock.  Flores,  one  of  the  Azores  was 
a  little  ahead.  As  the  light  increased,  it  revealed  to  us  the  outlines  of 
vineyards  and  grain  fields,  which  presented  a  charming  view.  To  one 
shut  out  from  the  sight  of  land  three  and  a  half  weeks  only,  its  first 
reappearance  is  truly  welcome.  As  the  sun  rose,  it  cast  a  brilliant 
hue  over  hill,  and  dale,  and  naked  mountain  cliffs,  presenting  us, 
as  we  were  then  but  a  few  miles  distant,  a  very  grand  and  beautiful 
landscape.  We  all  admired  it,  and  Mrs.  Smith  applied  her  pencil 
to  the  lovely  scene.  Fiores  is  the  most  western  of  the  Azores,  and 
the  most  northern  except  Corvo,  which  we  observed,  a  sublime  pile 
of  indistinguishable  blue,  away  in  the  distant  horizon.  This  whole 
group  belongs  to  the  Portuguese.  Flores  is  about  thirty  miles 
long  and  nine  or  ten  broad.  It  takes  its  name  from  the  abundance 
o(Jlowers  which  grow  wild  in  all  parts  of  the  island.  It  is  extremely 
fertile,  wherever  cultivated,  and  produces  great  quantities  of  grapes, 
from  which  the  inhabitants  make  wine  as  their  staple  commodity  in 
commerce.  Corvo  is  about  four  leagues  in  circumference.  It  is 
said  to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  vast  number  of  crows  that 
Vvere  found  there  on  its  first  discovery. 


PROFANENESS  REPROOF. 


43 


Oct.  20.  We  had  a  visit  from  another  neighbor  of  the  grampus 
species.  He  was  more  vain  of  his  personal  appearance  than  his 
predecessors,  and  instead  of  lifting  himself  but  half  out  of  the  wa- 
ter, he  leaped  repeatedly,  with  his  whole  length,  at  least  ten  feet 
above  the  surface.  He  was  but  a  few  rods  from  us,  and  the  captain 
supposed  him  to  be  twenty-five  feet  long. 

To-day  I  finished  reading  Abercrombie  for  the  first  time — the  Jirst 
time,  for  I  hope  to  have  another  interview  with  this  author.  While 
the  mass  of  books  that  now  flood  the  world,  are  hardly  worth  turn- 
ing over,  this  work  may  be  placed  almost  on  the  same  shelf  with 
Butler's  Analogy  and  some  rare  et  ceteras,  to  be  read  and  re- 
read, from  time  to  time. 

During  my  walk,  in  the  morning,  I  was  amused  to  hear  a  reproof 
administered  by  the  captain  to  the  cabin  boy.  The  boy  had  ut- 
tered a  fearful  oath  in  the  hearing  of  the  cook.  The  cook  had  in- 
formed the  mate,  and  the  mate  reported  the  case  to  the  captain. 
The  boy  was  called  up  and  questioned,  but  flatly  denied  the  charge. 
The  cook  was  called  in  to  give  testimony  against  him  ;  the  mate 
stood,  hearing  the  trial,  and  the  captain  was  administering  his  salu- 
tary admonitions.  How  flagrantly  inconsistent,  I  could  not  help 
feeling,  that  men  the  most  notoriously  profane  of  any  on  board  the 
vessel,  should  join  so  earnestly  in  their  lip-castigations  of  the  boy, 
whose  offence  was  sanctioned  by  their  own  habitual  example.  How 
true  that  example  is  more  powerful  than  precept ;  and  how  affecting 
the  fact,  that  men  will  practise  themselves  what  they  so  fully  disap- 
prove and  pointedly  condemn  in  others. 

The  profaneness  of  the  crew  was  the  only  circumstance  which 
we  hud  occasion  to  regret,  on  board  the  '  George,'  so  far  as  our 
comfort  was  concerned.  And  how  fearfully  prevalent  is  this  sin 
among  American  seamen !  I  am  happy  to  bear  testimony  to  at 
least  one  exception  to  its  general  prevalence.  On  board  the  Ma- 
goun,  of  Philadelphia,  Capt.  Haven,  in  which  we  returned,  1  heard 
not  an  oath  uttered,  during  our  long  and  boisterous  passage  of  almost 
four  months,  though  neither  the  captain,  nor  any  individual  of  the 
crew  was  a  professedly  pious  man.  The  captain  very  properly  and 
coramendably  made  it  a  standing  rule,  that  there  should  be  no  grog- 
drinking  nor  owearing  on  board  his  vessel.  May  many  other  cap- 
tains follow  his  worthy  example.  What  inestimable  advantages 
would  be  the  result  to  merchants  and  ship  owners,  to  the  morals 
and  welfare  of  seamen,  and  to  common  humanity. 

Oct.  22.  We  had  squalls  and  high  winds  and  seas,  during  the 
night.  But  while  we  felt  some  inconvenience  from  the  great  amount 
of  motion  thus  produced,  we  had  the  satisfactton  of  knowing  that  we 
were  fiying  on  our  course  upon  the  wings  of  the  ivind,  at  the  rate 
of  nine  miles  an  hour.  I  arose  and  went  on  deck  about  four 
o'clock,  and  never  before  had  I  seen  so  sublime  a  spectacle  as  was 
then  presented.    The  ocean  was  lashed  into  rolling  mountians  by 


44 


PAPAL  PIETY  FAIR  WEATHER. 


gales  which  were  almost  hurricanes;  and  the  vessel  leaped  from 
summit  to  summit,  half  covered  with  the  raging  foam,  almost  with 
the  velocity  of  a  bird,  lying  down,  by  its  rockings,  at  one  moment 
nearly  upon  its  beams-ends  toward  the  wind,  and  the  next  moment, 
even  lower  on  the  opposite  side. 

Oct.  23.  Our  cabin  boy  and  cook  were  devoted  Roman  Catholics. 
The  former  wore  a  charm  about  his  neck,  and  the  latter  had  a  large 
crucifix  upon  his  arm.  Poor  Benny,  the  boy,  very  promptly  pro- 
duced his  charm — a  scrap  of  paper  with  the  picture  of  the  virgin 
upon  it — as  proof  of  his  piety,  when  I  attempted  to  impress  him 
with  the  importance  of  becoming  reconciled  to  God.  On  being 
asked  the  use  of  the  charm,  he  soberly  answered,  "It  keeps  the 
vessel  from  being  cast  away."  The  cook,  too,  on  one  occasion, 
endeavored  to  impress  me  with  his  sanctity.  He  declared  '  that  he 
daily  read  his  Bible  and  prayed,'  but  before  I  was  out  of  hearing, 
he  uttered  several  terrible  oaths,  because  the  fire  in  the  galley  did  not 
burn  to  his  liking.  Papal  ignorance  is  the  mother  of  such  devotion. 
"  Mother  Gary's  chickens,"  a  sm;dl  ocean  bird,  resembling  some- 
what the  swallow,  darting  and  twittering  around  us,  seemed  in  their 
element.  They  are  always  most  lively  during  gales  and  storms. 
It  was  pleasant  to  us  to  be  favored  with  even  such  visitors ;  but  not 
so  to  the  sailors,  who  regard  these  birds  as  almost  the  authors  as 
well  as  the  harbingers  and  companions  of  storms. 

Oct.  24.  Rose  at  three  o'clock  and  went  on  deck,  found  the 
sails  nearly  all  reefed,  the  rain  pouring  down  in  torrents,  and  the 
wind  and  seas  terribly  high.  Only  three  sails  remained  unfurled ; 
but  the  vessel  still  plodded  her  way  over  the  high  ridges  and  through 
the  deep  valleys  of  water,  three  or  four  miles  an  hour.  In  the  course 
of  the  morning,  a  heavy  shower  fell,  the  wind  in  a  measure  sub- 
sided, the  clouds  broke  away,  and  the  sun  appeared.  The  sailors 
all  seemed  transported  with  the  change.  Their  gleeful  songs,  while 
unreefing  the  sails,  were  merry  and  loud;  and  our  cabin,  dark  and 
dreary  as  it  was,  with  its  dead  lights  closed  and  most  of  its  inmates 
sea-sick,  soon  caught  a  ray  of  the  general  joy. 

Oct.  25.  Rose  at  two  o'clock  and  went  on  deck.  I  had  slept  very 
little  during  the  night,  in  lively  anticipation  of  soon  gazing  upon  the 
Old  World.  The  watch  had  just  discovered  land  when  I  arose, 
which  was  not  more  than  five  or  six  miles  distant.  Being  in  some 
uncertainty  of  our  latitude,  the  captain  was  in  doubt  whether  the 
coast  was  cape  Trafalgar,  on  the  European,  or  cape  Spartel,  on  the 
African  side  of  the  Straits.  So  he  wore  ship,  heading  to  the  west, 
and  let  the  vessel  ride  at  ease,  waiting  for  the  day.  So  strong,  how- 
ever, was  the  south  wind,  that  we  were  borne  onward — or  rather, 
back  homeward,  at  the  rate  of  three  or  four  miles  an  hour,  though 
our  sails  were  nearly  all  furled.  A  little  after  five  A.  M.,  the  captain 
wore  ship  again,  and  drove  on  with  all  speed  towards  the  land.  The 
mornincr  soon  revealed  to  us  the  African  coast,  and  we  gazed  with 


FIRST  SIGHT  OF  THE  OLD  WORLB. 


45 


unutterable  emotions,  for  the  first  time,  upon  the  Old  World.  It 
•was  an  unfortunate  part  of  it, — poor  Africa,  robbed  of  her  children 
and  crushed  under  accumulated  wrongs ! 

The  sight  of  Africa,  which,  in  all  my  associations,  was  a  land  far 
away,  forcibly  impressed  me  with  our  distance  from  country  and 
home.  Till  then,  I  had  thought  of  them  as  only  a  little  back,  and 
had  hoped  that  I  might  retain  the  same  feeling  even  to  the  place 
of  my  distant  destination.  But  a  glance  at  the  land  of  the  Moors, 
broke  the  spell  and  it  vanished  forever. 

We  passed  round  cape  Spartel  about  a  mile  from  the  African 
shore,  which  there  presents  a  bold,  rocky  appearance,  the  rocks 
rising  in  symmetrical  layers.  Cape  Trafalgar  appeared  at  the  north, 
off  which  Nelson  achieved  his  renowned  victory  over  the  combined 
fieets  of  France  and  Spain,  and  fell  himself  "  covered  with  glory." 
Entering  the  Straits,  we  passed  Tangier,  the  first  town  on  the  Afri- 
can side.  Viewed  from  the  water,  it  has  a  regular,  imposing  appear- 
ance ;  but  within,  it  is  said  to  exhibit  the  most  disgusting  wretch- 
edness. Its  inhabitants  subsist  principally  by  supplying  the  fortress 
of  Gibraltar  with  cattle  and  vegetables.  We  were  so  near  as  to  be 
able  to  see  its  ancient  walls  and  monuments  quite  distinctly  ;  and 
from  their  venerable  appearance,  we  judged  that,  in  the  days  of  its 
l)iratic  celebrity,  it  must  have  been  far  more  flourishing  than  at  pres- 
ent. A  few  miles  to  the  east,  a  lofty  tower,  white  as  marble,  lifts 
its  head  in  solitude. 

We  were  borne  rapidly  along,  having  a  fair  wind,  in  addition  to 
the  current,  which,  in  the  .straits,  is  aJways  three  miles  an  hour. 
On  the  Spanish  coast,  we  passed  the  ancient  tower  of  Tarifa,  situ- 
ated on  a  bay  to  which  it  gives  its  name.  It  is  fortified  with  old 
walls  and  towers,  and  has  a  castle.  In  front  of  the  town,  on  a  small 
island  of  the  same  name,  is  a  light-house,  then  the  only  one  in  the 
Straits;  another  has  since  been  erected  at  Gibraltar.  On  the  Afri- 
can side,  we  next  passed  Ahyla,  vulgarly  called,  Apes  hill,  which  is 
one  ofthe  pillars  of  Hercules.  It  is  truly  a  magnificent  pile.  From  this 
mountain,  a  lofty  ridge  runs  off  to  the  south,  apparently  of  primary 
formation.  A  lower  secondary  ridge  shut  its  base  from  our  view. 
Beyond  Abyla,  is  the  strongly  fortified  town  of  Ceuta,  which  belongs 
to  Spain,  and  contains  about  8,000  inhabitants.  And  opposite  to 
Ceuta,  on  the  European  shore,  is  the  famous  rock,  Gibraltar,  the 
other  pillar  of  Hercules,  peering  in  sublime  majesty,  with  a  fortress 
the  strongest  of  the  strong.  These  lofty  out-posts  of  nature, 
said  by  the  ancients  to  have  been  erected  by  Hercules  as  the  limits 
of  the  western  world,  present  an  appearance  that  readily  accounts 
for  the  fable. 

The  new  scenes,  presented  to  us  that  day,  greatly  enlivened  the 
tedium  of  our  voyage.  But  we  were  deeply  impressed  with  the 
feeling,  that  the  lands  which  we  saw  are  lands  of  darkness,  where 
the  Pope  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  False  Prophet  on  the  other,  sway 


46 


DISASTER  EXCURSION. 


their  bloody  and  corrupting  sceptres.  And  our  feelings  were  best 
relieved,  as  we  mused  on  the  dreary  scenes,  by  singing  the  beauti- 
ful hymn, 

"  O'er  tlic  gloomy  }iills  of  darkness, 
Lot  the  eye  of  pity  gaze ; 
See  the  kindreds  of  the  people, 
Lost  in  sin's  bewildering  maze  ; 

Darkness  brooding, 
On  the  face  of  all  these  lands." 

Our  feeling  of  sccuriiT/  was  increased,  as  well  as  our  ennui  broken, 
by  eniering  the  Mediterranean.  Our  passage  of  the  Atlantic  had 
been  a  rough  one,  and  a  frightful  disaster  that  had  befallen  our  cap- 
tain, a  little  before  our  embarkation,  made  him,  as  well  as  ourselves, 
rather  timorous.  Three  days  out  from  Boston,  a  sudden  gust  of 
wind,  about  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  capsized  his  vessel.  He 
had  only  time  to  spring  from  his  berth,  and  himself,  his  second 
mate  and  one  sailor  jump  into  a  boat,  before  the  vessel  with  the 
rest  of  the  crew  went  down.  The  survivors  floated  three  days  and 
nights,  on  the  rough  ocean,  with  nothing  to  eat  nor  drink,  and  with 
no  oars  to  work  their  boat,  and  the  captain,  with  no  clothing  but 
shirt  and  pantaloons,  when  they  were  picked  up.  No  wonder  that 
the  fresh  recollection'of  such  a  disaster  should  make  even  a  hardy 
son  of  Neptune  a  little  timorous  on  the  ocean. 

Oct.  30.  A  small  island  rose  in  sight,  Cabrera  by  name,  (in  Latin, 
Cabraria).  It  is  about  three  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  wide,  rocky 
and  uninhabited  except  a  port,  the  entrance  of  which  is  opposite 
Majorca,  and  is  defended  by  a  castle.  This  island  is  used  as  a  place 
of  banishment  for  criminals.  To-day,  for  the  first  time,  we  felt  the 
enervating  effects  of  the  Sirocco. 

Nov.  1.  A  head  wind.    In  twenty-four  hours  we  had  made  ^ve 
miles,  and  in  doing  this,  had  sailed  more  than  a  hundred  miles 
tacking.    The  small  island  of  Cabrera  again  appeared,  and  in  just 
about  the  same  direction  and  nearly  the  same  distance  from  us  as 
on  the  day  previous. 

Nov.  2.  The  wind  was  weak  and  the  weather  delightful.  Just 
before  sunset,  the  captain  invited  us  to  take  a  seat  with  him  in  the 
jolly  boat  and  ride  out.  We  gladly  accepted  the  invitation,  were 
let  down  by  the  tackles,  and  in  a  moment  found  ourselves  floating 
in  a  small  bark,  which  under  the  lee  of  the  stately  George,  seemed 
hardly  larger  than  a  porridge  bowl.  We  rowed  off  a  few  rods  from 
the  brig  and  were  amused  to  watch  the  majestic  stateliness  of  her 
motion.  The  ladies  were  much  relieved  and  entertained  by  the  ex- 
cursion. Such  trifling  adventures,  are  of  important  use  to  those 
who  have  become  wearied  with  the  sameness  of  a  voyage. 

Nov.  3.  The  Sabbath.  It  was  a  delightful  morning.  Mrs.  P. 
and  myself  went  on  deck  to  walk  at  five  o'clock.  The  dawn  was 
just  lighting  up  the  eastern  skies,  and  the  full  moon  retiring  in  the 
west.    There  was  a  perfect  calm  ;  the  sea  was  as  smooth  as  a  mir- 


A  SUNRISE  PANTALAKIA  'GOZO. 


47 


tor ;  and  a  delicate  softness,  peculiar  to  the  Mediterranean,  was 
spread  over  the  whole  heavens.  The  captain  at  length  came  out 
and  invited  us  to  ascend  upon  the  kovse,  (the  deck-cabin).  We  did 
so,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith  soon  joined  us.  Then  came  the  king 
of  day  rejoicing  in  the  east.  Mrs.  Smith  now  beheld  a  sunrise  at 
sea  for  the  Jiist  time.  "  O  that  is  sublime,"  she  exclaimed ;  and  it 
was  so  indeed  to  those  who  had  often  witnessed  the  same  scene  be- 
fore. It  was  this  sunrise,  which  is  so  graphically  sketched  by  her 
gifted  pen  in  her  published  Memoirs.  We  3ung  a  hymn  in  our  ele- 
vated position,  and  gazed  awhile  upon  the  African  coast  near  which 
we  had  been  drifted  during  the  night,  and  which  was  now  smiling 
under  the  brilliant  rays  of  the  sun.  It  was  the  coast  of  Algiers. 
Our  charm  was  at  length  broken  by  a  summons  from  Benny  to  go 
to  breakfast.  In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Smith  preached  on  deck  from 
the  parable  of  the  fig-tree.  The  sailors  were  very  attentive.  The 
stillness  of  the  day  and  of  the  scene  was  very  peculiar  and  im- 
pressive. The  weather  was  the  warmest  which  we  had  on  our 
voyage. 

Nov.  6.  Galata,  a  small,  barren,  rocky  island,  near  the  coast  of 
Tunis,  was  in  full  view  to  the  leeward,  and  Sardinia  was  in  sight 
from  mast  head,  to  the  windward.  In  the  afternoon,  we  passed 
the  site  of  ancient  Carthage,  the  once  powerful  rival  of  Rome. 
Ten  thousand  classic  and  sacred  associations  thronged  our  minds, 
as  we  found  ourselves  so  near  the  ashes  of  the  devoted  city.  Cape 
Blanco,  the  most  northern  point  of  Africa,  was  also  in  sight. 

Nov.  7.  In  the  morning,  we  were  north  of  the  small  island  of 
Zembla,  another  rocky  bluff  of  almost  the  same  shape  and  size 
as  Galata.  Cape  Bon,  on  the  African  coast  was  in  view.  And 
while  confined  in  my  berth  with  a  slight  illness,  we  passed  the  is- 
land of  Pantalaria.  It  is  situated  about  sixty  miles  south  of  Massah, 
a  town  on  the  western  point  of  Sicily,  and  about  the  same  distance 
from  cape  Bon  on  the  African  coast.  It  is  about  thirty  miles  in 
circumference.  Its  productions  are  olives,  5gs,  raisins,  capers  and 
cotton;  its  cattle  are  numerous.  It  is  under  the  government  of 
the  two  Sicilies,  and  used  by  that  government  as  a  place  of  banish- 
ment for  its  nobility,  who  are  guilty  of  treasonable  designs.  The 
language  is  a  mixture  of  African  and  Italian. 

Nov.Q,  The  wind  was  brisk,  during  the  previous  night,  and  in 
the  morning,  the  island  of  Gozo  which  is  near  to  Malta  and  belongs 
to  it  was  in  full  view,  and  Malta  itself  soon  appeared.  We  passed 
along  about  a  mile  distant  from  Gozo.  Its  southern  termination  is 
almost  as  bold  as  Gibraltar  rock.  We  had  a  good  view  of  its  vil- 
lages and  churches  and  could  even  perceive  a  windmill  in  the  act 
of  going.  The  cultivated  terraces  looked  like  garden  beds,  green 
as  in  the  month  of  June,  in  New  England.  Almost  all  the  soil  on 
the  island  is  artificial,  in  the  form  of  terraces  built  out  among  the 
cliffs  of  the  rocks.    These  are  of  course  under  high  cultivation. 

As  Malta  hove  in  sight,  round  the  north  end  of  Gozo,  not  "  dis' 


48 


ARRIVAL  AT  MALTA. 


tancc,"  but  nearness  lent  "  enchantment  to  the  scene."  Mrs.  P- 
soon  fancied  that  she  saw  fruit-trees, — Mrs.  Smith  applying  the 
spy-glass  saw  a  man,  and  queried  whether  he  were  not  an  Anakim. 
We  read  St.  Paul's  account  of  approaching  Malta,  in  the  27th  of 
Acts,  as  we  advanced  towards  the  island.  AH  was  glee  and  good 
nature  on  deck  ;  the  mates  and  sailors  were  painting  and  brushing 
up  the  brig,  and  appeared  as  solicitous  that  she  should  make  a  fair 
appearance,  as  good  matrons  and  young  misses  are  for  their  parlors 
before  a  party. 

Cumino  is  a  small  island  in  the  channel,  between  Gozo  and  Malta. 
At  half  past  one,  P.  M.,  we  were  off  "  St.  Paul's  Bay,"  where  the 
apostle  is  supposed  to  have  been  shipwrecked.  As  we  advanced 
toward  La  Valletta,  the  capital  of  Malta,  its  lofty  walls,  forts,  towers, 
spires  and  fine  edifices  impressed  us  with  the  strength  and  beauty  of 
the  city.  A  pilot  boat  came  out  a  mile  and  a  half  to  meet  us. 
"  What  do  you  charge  for  piloting  us  in  ?"  inquired  the  captain. 
"  Fifteen  dollars,"  was  the  reply.  The  captain  refused  to  give  that 
sum,  but  the  boatmen  kept  along  side  some  time,  and  at  length  of- 
fered to  pilot  U3  in  for  ten  dollars,  and  their  offer  was  accepted. 

Just  before  we  entered  the  harbor,  about  twenty  small  boats, 
finely  painted  and  manned  by  natives,  met  us,  requesting  to  tow  us 
in.  They  surrounded  the  vessel  and  importuned  the  captain  like 
so  many  harpies  for  the  job,  but  the  pilot's  dexterity  superseded  the 
necessity  of  their  aid.  We  rode  majestically  into  the  harbor  and 
threw  out  our  anchor  at  two  o'clock,  P.  M.  We  were  heartily  glad 
to  cease  from  our  rolling  and  tossing,  which  had  been  almost  in- 
cessant for  forty-eight  days.  We  were  still  unable  to  enter  the  city, 
being  compelled  to  lie  a  week,  in  quarantine. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  the  captain  went  near  the  shore, 
and  took  directions  from  the  first  officer  of  the  port  respecting  our 
quarantine.  A  watch — Guardiano,  as  he  is  called — came  on 
board,  to  see  that  none  of  us  should  go  into  the  city  and  contaminate 
its  inhabitants,  who,  together  with  the  pilot  must  stay  on  board,  lest 
they _  also  should  become  vehicles  of  contagion.  The  din  of  the 
busy'  city  around  us  reminded  us  forcibly  of  home.  But  its  lofty 
walls  and  towers  impressed  us  with  the  fact,  that  we  were  no  longer 
in  the  Ncic,  but  in  the  Old  World;  and  the  incessant  chiming  of  al- 
most innumerable  bells,  soon  sickened  our  hearts  with  the  painful 
certainty,  that  we  were  also  in  the  heart  of  the  dominions  of  the 
"  man  of  sin." 

Nov,  9.  We  anchored  yesterday  in  the  main  harbor,  because 
the  wind  was  too  strong  from  the  quarantine  harbor  to  allow  us  to 
enter  it.  This  morning,  soon  after  light,  the  pilot  boats  again 
swarmed  around  us,  clamorous  for  the  opportunity  of  towing  us 
from  one  harbor  into  the  other.  The  captain  rejected  their  offers 
as  extravagant,  and  they  at  length  disappeared.  But  seeing  him 
make  preparations  to  sail  out  without  them,  they  returned  more  clam- 
orous than  ever  for  employment.    A  few  were  finally  engaged  for 


VISIT  FROM  THE  MISSIONARIES. 


49 


three  dollars — half  their  first  offer,  at  which  others  still  demurred. 
The  captain  added  two  dollars,  which  seemed  to  satisfy  all,  and  the 
arrangement  was  accepted.  We  weighed  anchor  at  eight  o'clock, 
the  wind  still  blowing  strong  as  ever  from  the  quarantine  harbor. 
Just  as  we  began  to  enter  it,  the  Maltese  boatmen  importuned  the 
captain  to  throw  out  his  anchor,  declaring  that  they  could  pull  us 
no  farther.  But  the  captain  refused  to  release  them,  and  kept  them 
almost  the  whole  forenoon,  tacking  back  and  forth  across  the  harbor, 
to  gain  one  fourth  of  a  mile.  The  boats  were  filed  in  two  lines, 
and  attached  by  ropes  to  the  bows  of  our  vessel  and  to  each  other. 
Their  appearance  was  truly  amusing,  as  they  were  thus  strung  out 
in  two  parallel  teams,  some  fifteen  or  twenty  rods  long.  They  soon 
relaxed  their  efforts  and  lay  leisurely  on  their  oars;  but  what  they 
saved  in  strength  they  lost  in  time ;  for  the  captain  kept  them, 
wheeling  back  and  forth  across  the  harbor,  until  by  the  exertions  of 
his  sailors  in  the  jolly  boat,  rather  than  by  any  aid  from  the  towmen, 
he  reached  his  place  of  anchorage.  How  depressed  must  be  the 
condition  of  a  people,  where  eighty  men,  as  in  this  case, — there 
being  twenty  boats  with  four  men  in  each  boat, — gladly  labor  a 
whole  half  day  for  the  scanty  sum  of  five  dollars  ! 

We  threw  out  our  anchor  along  side  of  a  Turkish  vessel.  It  was 
amusing  to  observe  its  motley  crew  aud  passengers.  On  board 
were  Greeks,  Arabs,  Moors,  negroes  and  Turks.  They  stared  at 
us  with  eager  curiosity,  and  we  as  eagerly  at  them. 

The  captain  went  on  shore  and  returned  laden  with  dainties, — ■ 
fresh  beef,  vegetables  and  fruits.  Among  the  latter  were  pome- 
granates, Maltese  chestnuts,  winter  melons,  cauliflowers  and  toma- 
toes. This  melon  resembles  our  musk-raelon.  We  left  home  in 
the  season  of  melons  and  found  them  fresh  at  Malta,  which  re- 
minded us  of  our  difference  of  climate.  The  grass  and  flower 
bushes,  on  the  shore  around  the  harbor,  were  also  green  as  in  mid- 
summer in  New  England. 

Mr.  Temple  and  the  other  missionaries*  residing  in  Malta  came 
along  side  and  afforded  us  opportunity  of  delightful  conversation. 
They  also  brought  us  many  comforts  to  cheer  our  confinement  in 
quarantine.  And  seldom  are  persons  in  circumstances  more  fully 
to  appreciate  kind  attentions,  or  keenly  to  feel  any  apparent  want 
of  them,  on  the  part  of  their  friends,  than  while,  after  the  fatigues 
and  exposures  of  a  long  voyage  or  journey,  they  lie  as  prisoners  in 
quarantine.  In  company  with  the  missionaries,  Mr.  Carabet,  an 
Armenian  bishop,  in  their  employ,  came  to  visit  us.  He  is  a 
venerable  looking  man.  Under  the  influence  of  the  mission  he  has 
got  so  much  the  better  of  his  canonical  scruples  on  the  virtue  of 
episcopal  celibacy,  that  he  has  married  a  young  wife,  and  is  rearing 
a  family.    His  fine  little  girl  who  came  with  him,  brought  us  some 


*  Soon  after  this  time,  Messrs.  Temple  and  Hallock  removed  with  the  press 
to  Smyrna,  and  theie  have  since  been  no  AnaericUn  missionaries  in  Malta,. 
7 


50 


LEAVING  THE  GEORGE  BIALTA. 


beautiful  nosegayg.  They  were  the  first  flowers  which  we  saw  in 
the  0]d  World,  and  after  being  so  long  excluded  from  everything  of 
the  kind,  we  higlily  prized  the  attention.  They  were  thrown  into 
our  cabin  window,  and  within  five  minutes  completely  perfumed 
our  little  dwelling. 

The  urbanity  of  bishop  Carabet  and  of  other  foreigners,  soon 
impressed  me  with  the  stiffness  and  roughness  of  the  American 
character, — a  point  of  which  I  have  been  more  and  more  reminded, 
during  my  entire  residence  in  foreign  lands.  Even  the  tawny, 
degraded  Maltese  are  incomparably  more  respectful  and  polite  than 
the  mass  in  New  England.  It  may,  indeed,  be  in  them  a  servile 
politeness,  or  the  garb  of  secret  intrigue.  And  nobody,  and  least 
of  all  a  yanlcce,  doubts  the  general  superiority  of  the  sons  of  brother 
Jonathan  to  all  other  nations,  unless  it  be  their  English  cousins  who 
may  he  nearly  their  equals.  With  all  their  excellence,  however, 
they  might  be  yet  more  excellent,  had  they,  with  the  plentitude  of 
their  fortiter  in  re,  a  mediocrity  of  the  suaviter  in  modo,  especially 
in  their  intercourse  with  foreigners. 

We  remained  on  board  the  George,  during  the  week  of  our 
quarantine,  instead  of  going  into  the  Lazaretto.  The  accommoda- 
tions in  the  Lazaretto  are  said  to  be  superior.  The  apartments  are 
spacious,  airy  and  delightfully  situated  on  the  sea.  A  good  hotel 
furnishes  all  needed  comforts  and  conveniences  to  the  inmates, 
which  is  very  different  from  the  dreary  encampments  which  we 
subsequently  encountered  under  our  tent,  among  the  mud-shantees 
of  the  Cossacks  in  the  Russian  provinces. 

Nov.  13.  Our  period  of  purgation,  in  quarantine,  being  com- 
pleted, we  took  pratique,  and  were  cordially  welcomed  at  the  houses 
of  our  missionary  brethren.  We  felt  a  kind  of  painful  reluctance, 
at  last,  on  leaving  our  quiet  cabin  in  the  George,  which  had  so  long 
been  our  home,  and  the  captain  and  crew  seemed  heartily  to  regret 
our  departure.  The  next  day,  we  went  on  board,  for  the  last  time, 
and  presented  Bibles  to  them  all — a  nice  quarto  Bible  to  the  cap- 
tain— which  were  very  gratefully  received.  In  their  increasingly 
serious  deportment,  toward  the  close  of  the  voyage,  we  had  some 
reason  to  hope  that  our  conversations,  our  preaching  and  our  prayers 
had  not  been  in  vain. 

The  island  of  Malta  is  composed  of  white  limestone,  so  soft,  that 
much  of  its  surface  is  beaten  up  and  pulverized,  and  formed  into 
cultivated  terraces.  The  soil  thus  obtained  is  extremely  fertile  and 
produces  excellent  crops — particularly  fruits.  The  climate  is  very 
mild,  there  being  little  or  no  winter  on  the  island.  Oranges  and 
lemons  were  in  their  prime  on  the  trees  when  we  were  there  in  the 
middle  of  November.  Its  inhabitants  are  about  as  dark  as  the  Ameri- 
can Indians.  They  are  a  mixed  race,  said  to  have  descended  from 
Arabs  and  Carthaginians ;  and  they  speak  a  corrupt  dialect  of  the 
Arabic,  containing  many  words  from  the  old  Punic  language.  La 
Valetta,  the  capital  of  the  island,  is  a  fine  city.    It  is  cleanly  and 


BEGGARS  PRIESTS  LA.  VALETTA. 


51 


well-paved ;  and  its  houses  are  -well-built  of  stone.  They  are  very 
high  and  airy,  and  form  delightful  residences.  House-rent  is  low, 
and  its  ample  and  well  stocked  markets  furnish  provisions  and 
clothing  remarkably  cheap.  In  the  prospect  of  being  beyond  the 
reach  of  European  tailors  in  Persia,  I  procured  two  suits  of  clothes 
there,  one  of  broadcloth  for  winter,  and  the  other  of  a  thin  material 
for  summer,  for  both  of  which  when  made  up,  I  paid  a  little  short 
of  twenty-nine  dollars ;  and  almost  everything  else  seemed  to  be 
cheap  in  proportion. 

Some  of  the  churches  in  Malta  are  very  large  and  splendid  edifices. 
St.  John's,  which  we  visited,  is  the  most  celebrated.  Its  vaults  are 
filled  with  the  ashes  of  saints — its  walls  covered  with  gaudy  paint- 
ings— its  floors  are  of  a  superior  order — its  dome  is  mounted  with 
several  large  bells  which  are  almost  constantly  chiming  as  the  signal 
of  some  religious  festivity, — and  it  is  altogether  a  most  imposing 
monument  of  the  idolatrous  worship  of  Rome.  Many  other  churches 
on  the  island  are  of  the  same  general  description. 

The  greatest  nuisances  of  Malta  are  its  hosts  of  beggars  and 
priests.  The  former  are  in  some  measure  the  agents,  as  well  as 
the  offspring,  of  the  latter.  The  beggars  are  so  numerous  and 
importunate  in  the  streets,  as  seriously  to  impede  one's  passing. 
They  would  even  seize  hold  upon  us  like  ravenous  aniinals,  stun 
our  ears  with  their  entreaties,  sometimes  pathetically  appealing  to 
us  for  the  souls  of  their  friends  in  Purgatory, — an  artifice  far 
more  successful  with  Papists  than  with  us  incredulous  Protestants, 
to  the  use  of  which  the  miserable  mendicants  had  doubtless  been 
instructed  by  the  wilv  priesthood.  The  capital  which  contains 
about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  is  said  to  be  scourged  by  at  least 
1,100  priests  of  various  orders,  including,  to  be  sure,  the  inmates 
of  the  convents,  but  all  of  whom  must  feed  upon  the  famished  popula- 
tion. These  priests  thronged  the  streets  in  all  directions  and  at  all 
hours  of  the  day,  like  swarms  of  locusts,  eager  to  devour  the  land. 
Some  of  them  were  mere  boys,  twelve  or  fourteen  years  old,  whose 
broad  brimmed  hats  and  other  grotesque  canonicals,  gave  to  them 
a  truly  ludicrous  appearance.  In  few  places  in  the  world,  and  per- 
haps nowhere,  does  the  Pope  reign  with  more  tyrannical  sway,  than 
in  Malta.  Nowhere  have  I  seen  a  more  squalid,  miserable,  priest* 
ridden  populace. 

La  Valetta  is  a  strongly  fortified  city.  This,  rendered  well  nigh 
impregnable  by  art,  and  Gibraltar  rock  at  the  straits,  which  is  fully 
so  by  nature,  give  to  the  English  the  perfect  command  of  the  Medi- 
terranean. The  town  is  also  kept  strongly  garrisoned.  There  were, 
I  think,  five  regiments  in  it  when  we  were  there,  who  were  under 
the  finest  discipline.  One  of  them  was  the  famous  42nd  regiment 
of  Scotch  highlanders.  They  were  tall,  athletic  men,  and  their 
highland  costume,  with  their  legs  bare  to  the  knee,  give  to  them  a 
very  hardy,  warlike  appearance.  The  English  government  of  the 
island  is  strict  and  firm,  but  ameliorating  in  its  policy  and  influencej 


52 


VOYAGE  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


as  much  so  as  a  government  well  can  be,  over  so  vvretched  and  de- 
based a  population. 

While  at  Malta,  we  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Wil- 
son, a  missionary  of  the  London  Society;  and  Mr.  Schlienz,  a  cler- 
gyman, and  Messrs.  Brenner  and  Wise,  laymen,  missionaries  of  the 
Church  Missionary  Society.  The  former  was  engaged  in  miscella- 
neous labors.  The  three  latter,  who  are  Germans,  were  occupied 
mainly  in  the  preparation  and  printing  of  books.  While  the  truly 
catholic  and  excellent  spirit  of  the  Society  under  which  they  labor 
is  conspicuous,  in  its  employing  as  it  does,  so  many  men  of  another 
nation  and  a  different  religious  communion,  it  reveals  a  painful  defi- 
ciency in  the  missionari/  spirit  of  its  own  church,  that  men  of  devo- 
tion to  the  cause  cannot  be  found  in  sufficient  numbers  within  her 
pale  to  go  in  person  and  apply  her  missionary  funds.  May  the  man- 
tle of  Martyn  rest  on  more  of  her  rising  sons  !  The  operations  of 
the  press  under  the  Church  Missionary  Society,  at  Malta,  are  ex-^ 
tensive  and  efficient.  The  missionaries  had  in  their  employ,  as  a 
translator,  at  the  time  1  was  there,  a  Mr.  Rassam,  a  Chaldean  from 
Mosul,  by  whose  aid  they  kindly  prepared  and  lithographed  for  me 
a  Nestorian  spelling  book,  which  proved  a  very  timely  and  valuable 
passport,  on  my  first  entrance  among  the  Nestorians.  Mr.  Rassam, 
at  the  instance  of  Mr.  Schlienz,  also  gave  me  a  letter  of  introduc- 
tion to  Mar  Oraham,  (Abraham,)  the  metropolitan  of  Oroomiah,  with 
whom  he  was  acquainted,  but  who  died  before  I  reached  the  field. 
We  were  laid  under  much  obligation  to  those  excellent  German 
brethren,  as  well  as  to  the  missionaries  of  our  own  Society,  at  Mal- 
ta, for  their  kindness  and  aid  to  us  during  our  short  stay  on  the 
island. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


VOYAGE  FROM  MALTA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

As  it  was  seldom  that  vessels  sailed  directly  from  Malta  to  Con- 
stantinople, I  had  apprehended  considerable  delay,  before  an  oppor- 
portunity  should  occur  for  us  to  proceed  to  the  Turkish  capital. 
Providentially,  however,  the  day  we  took  pratique,  I  found  a  Greek 
brig,  bound  for  that  city,  which  was  to  sail  in  a  few  days.  The 
captain  was  well  recommended  to  me  by  Mr.  Aneaud,  then- Ameri- 
can consul  at  Malta ;  and  the  vessel  was  chartered  by  a  Mr.  Petra- 
kokino,  a  Greek  gentleman  whose  brother  had  been  my  classmate 
some  years  before  at  Amherst  College ;  and  more  favorable  still,  that 
same  brother,  who  was  then,  and  is  still,  connected  with  our  mission- 


REVIVAL  OF  OLD  ACaUAINTANCE. 


53 


aties  as  a  translator,  was  himself  to  be  a  passenger  as  far  as  the  island 
of  Syra.  Tn  addition  to  the  sincere  pleasure  of  his  society,  we  might 
thus  enjoy  his  important  assistance  as  an  interpreter  on  the  way. 
Strangers  as  we  were  in  those  regions,  and  unable  to  speak  the  lan- 
guage of  those  with  whom  we  were  to  sail,  the  Providence  which  unex- 
pectedly furnished  us  these  important  facilities  was  as  timely  as  it  was 
striking  ;  and  the  Scripture  declaration,  "  Commit  thy  way  unto  the 
Lord  and  He  will  direct  thy  steps,"  was  vividly  impressed  on  every 
mind  by  it;  as  it  has  very  often  been  by  similar  providences,  in  my 
subsequent  travels  and  labors. 

Mr.  Petrakokino,  (translated,  Redstone,)  my  classmate,  bad  sat 
for  years  at  my  side  in  the  college  lecture-room  and  chapel,  our 
names  commencing  with  the  same  initial,  and  the  revival  of  our  ac- 
quaintance,  in  the  distant  East,  was  of  course,  mutually  most  agree- 
able. He  kindly  assisted  me  in  engaging  my  passage  and  making 
other  preparations  for  the  voyage.  The  arrangement  was,  that  we 
should  board  ourselves,  though  the  cook  of  the  vessel  might  aid  us 
in  preparing  our  food.  Our  stock  of  provisions,  however,  which  the 
cheap  markets  of  Malta  furnished  for  a  very  small  sum,  consisting 
mainly  of  bread  and  fruits,  needed  little  preparation  for  the  table; 

Nov.  19.  We  rose  at  5  o'clock  ;  put  our  effects  in  readiness  as 
soon  as  possible,  and  were  early  on  board  the  Greek  brig,  Neptune^ 
of  Syra,  John  Micaro,  captain.  Messrs.  Temple  and  Smith,  ac- 
companied us  to  the  vessel,  and  the  German  missionaries  soon  came 
to  bid  us  farewell.  Mr.  Hallock  kindly  took  care  that  our  boxes  and 
beds  should  be  put  on  board,  and  about  9  o'clock,  A.  M.  a  fine  breeze 
from  the  south-west  filled  our  sails,  and  we  closed  our  eyes  upon 
beautiful  and  busy,  but  benighted  Malta.  I  spent  most  of  the  day 
in  arranging  our  cabin.  At  evening,  my  fellow  passengers  being 
too  sea-sick  to  take  seats  at  the  table,  or  to  eat  even,  I  was  obliged 
to  be  pater  familias,  matron  and  family,  at  our  humble  board. 
There  is  something  very  sombre  in  eating  alone.  I  preferred,  how-i 
ever^  to  set  our  table,  though  solitary  and  alone,  to  preserve  as  far 
as  practicable,  the  appearance  and  associations  of  home. 

We  found  our  accommodations,  on  board  the  Neptune,  very  com- 
fortable. We  had  a  spacious  cabin  entirely  to  ourselves.*  The 
cook  assisted  us,  so  far  as  we  needed,  and  the  fine,  active  cabin  boy 
was  ever  ready  at  our  call.  The  captain  was  a  very  superior  man  for 
a  Greek.  Besides  speaking  and  reading  his  own  language  mil,  he 
used  Italian  and  French  fluently,  possessed  much  general  informa- 
tion, was  gentlemanly  in  his  manners  and  very  kind  in  his  disposi- 
tion. We  soon  had  occasion  to  notice  that  the  policy  on  board 
his  vessel,  was  very  different  from  that  observed  in  the  "George." 
Instead  of  standing  like  mute  statues,  trembling  with  fear,  and 
watching  the  captin's  nod,  the  sailors' seemed  happy  and  social,  and 
whiled  away  the  dreary  hours  of  night  by  chatting  together  and  sing- 


*  Mrs.  P.,  myself  and  Mr.  Petrakokino. 


54 


VARIETY  IN  THE  CARGO. 


ing.  The  captain,  too,  did  not  scruple  to  conv^eree  familiarly  with 
his  crew  and  treat  them  as  fellow-men  and  companions.  I  Rtatc 
this  difference,  without  attempting  to  decidt  which  system  is  prefer- 
able. I  may  venture,  however,  to  suggest  the  query,  whether  a  me- 
dium course  might  not  be  far  superior  to  either.  The  noisy,  play- 
ful, and  often  cowardly  and  inefficient  Greek  sailors,  might  bend 
their  necks  to  half  the  rigor  practised  on  board  an'  American  ves- 
sel, and  they  would  lose  none  of  their  proper  freedom  and  enjoy- 
ment, and  become  much  more  prompt,  efficient  seamen  by  the  change. 
And  might  not  the  Yankee  crew,  on  the  other  hand,  enjoy  a  modi- 
cwn  of  the  indulgence  allowed  to  the  Greek  sailor,  and  remain  no 
less  docile  and  obedient,  and  become  men  of  more  character  and 
far  better  republicans  than  on  the  present  American  system  1  We 
had  on  board  the  Neptune  a  large  variety  of  animated  existences, 
cats,  dogs,  sheep,  swine,  and,  besides  a  heterogeneous  mass  of  bi- 
peds in  the  form  of  men,  some  dozens  of  hens,  and  a  few  beautiful 
Canary  birds.    In  such  a  community,  who  could  be  lonely  ? 

Nov.  20.  A  delightful  day  and  still  a  fair  wind.  Our  captain 
had  been  several  months  absent  from  his  home,  on  the  island  of 
Syra.  When  he  now  reached  it,  he  was  to  behold,  for  the  first 
time,  an  onli/  son.  Of  course,  he  hastened  towards  Syra  with  feel- 
ings of  no  ordinary  interest.  He  had  on  board  a  large  sheep,  of 
the  fat  tail  breed,*  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  sheep  with 
quarters,  in  reserve  for  the  festivities  which  he  intended  to  observe, 
on  his  arrival,  in  celebration  of  the  birth  of  his  son.  During  this 
part  of  my  voyage,  I  kept  paper  and  pencil  in  hand  to  note  down 
the  Greek  of  each  term  in  which  I  had  occasion  to  address  the  cap- 
tain, cook,  cabin  boy  or  sailor,  in  the  hope  of  thus  forming  a  vo- 
cabulary sufficiently  large  to  serve  our  purposes  of  necessity,  after 
Mr.  Peirakokino  should  leave  us,  as  he  expected  to  do,  at  the  island 
of  Syra.  The  wind  was  so  high  during  the  afternoon  and  evening, 
that  we  had  all  but  three  of  our  sails  close-reefed,  and  still  advanced 
at  the  rapid  rate  of  seven  and  half  miles  an  hour.  There  was  con- 
siderable motion,  but  less  by  far  than  there  would  have  been  on 
board  the  George  in  the  same  circumstances.  Our  cargo  was 
hewn  stonet  from  Malta  and  iron  bedsteads,  which  kept  our  vessel 
upright. 

Nov,  22.  The  wind  and  sea  continued  very  high,  during  the  last 
night.  This  morning,  cape  Matapan,  (the  ancient  Taenarus,)  was 
in  full  view.    It  is  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Peloponnesus. 


*  This  is  the  only  kind  of  sheep  which  I  have  ever  seen  in  Persia  and  the 
eastern  parts  of  Turkey.  Its  tail  consists  of  a  mass  of  fat,  in  the  shape  of  a 
heart,  almoat  as  heavy  as  a  quarter  of  the  animal ;  the  Persians  use  this  fat, 
to  a  great  extent,  in  the  place  of  butter  and  lard. 

t  The  Malta  limestone  is  exported  in  large  quantities  to  Constantinople 
and  otlier  places  in  the  Levant,  for  paving  the  open  courts  and  piazzas  of  the 
houses.  It  is  so  soft  and  easily  wrought,  that  it  can  be  afforded  at  a  moderate 
price  when  transported  to  a  distance. 


SOUTHERN  GREECE. 


55 


At  that  moment  was  I  permitted  for  the  first  time  to  gaze  upon 
classic  Greece.  Advancing  to  the  eastward,  the  island  of  Cerigo 
(ancient  Cythera)  soon  appeared  to  the  south-east  of  cape  Mata- 
pan.  It  belongs  to  the  Ionian  republic  of  Seven  Islands.  Itissepa- 
arated  from  the  Morea  only  by  a  narrow  strait.  We  fell  in  with  an 
English  man-of-war  that  had  left  Malta  two  or  three  days  before  us, 
and  was  bound  to  S;nyrna  or  Constantinople.  She  was  a  three  deck- 
er— the  St.  Vincent — carrying  120  guns.  Her  appearance  was  truly 
magnificent.  By  the  side  of  our  humble  Greek  brig,  she  seemed  like 
a  lofty  floating  island.  In  the  afternoon,  the  wind  and  sea  became 
very  high.  We  split  our  tri-sail  and  were  obliged  to  lie  to,  at  least, 
so  thought  the  timorous  Greeks. 

Nov.  23.  This  morning,  we  were  driving  down  near  the  south 
end  of  Cerigo,  the  wind  having  blown  so  violently  that  the  captain 
thought  it  unsafe  to  pass  round  the  north  end,  between  the  island 
and  cape  Malea.  About  a  mile  and  half  from  the  south  end  of  Ce- 
rigo is  a  solitary  rock,  called  E^g  Island,  an  acre  or  more  in  size, 
towering  in  lonely  sublimity.  We  had  intended  to  pass  between  this 
rock  and  Cerigo,  but  the  north  wind  was  so  strong  as  to  forbid  the 
hope  of  our  being  able  to  make  up  on  our  course  beyond.  The 
captain  therefore  wore  ship  and  made  back  again.  Thus  traversing 
and  retraversing  the  gulf  of  Kolokythia,  we  had  a  good  opportunity 
to  survey  the  southern  extremity  of  Greece.  The  storm  at  length 
ceased,  but  the  wind  continued  high  and  the  weather  was  quite 
cold.  The  lofty  range  of  Mount  Taygetus,  which  stretches  itself 
through  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  Morea,  and  terminates 
in  cape  Malea,  was  covered  with  snow  that  had  fallen  during  the 
storm.  We  were  shivering  on  deck,  in  our  great  coats,  cloaks  and 
gloves,  glad  to  secure  a  corner  in  the  sun.  The  change  of  tempera- 
ture, however,  was  not  unwelcome.  It  was  a  strong  barrier  against 
sea-sickness ;  and  though  still  unapproached,  myself,  by  that "  com- 
mon scourge,"  I  could  rejoice  to  encounter  the  inclemency  of  the 
weather,  while  it  relieved  my  suffering  companions. 

Just  at  sunset,  we  were  passing  the  small  rocky  piles  of  Cervi,  or 
Stag  islands,  which  lie  directly  west  of  cape  Malea.  They  are 
about  six  miles  north  of  Cerigo.  As  evening  came  on,  lights  ap- 
peared in  the  hamlets,  among  the  mountains,  north-west  of  the  cape. 
We  were  delighted  to  find  ourselves  again  in  the  vicinity  of  human 
habitations,  however  secluded  their  situation  and  humble  their  oc- 
cupants. Malea  has  always  been  considered  a  formidable  cape.  Ho- 
mer speaks  of  it  as  such.  As  we  approached  it,  in  the  evening,  the 
wind  roared  terrifically  and  blew  like  a  hurricane,  and  the  rain 
poured  down  in  torrents.  The  captain  therefore  worn  ship  and 
"  marched  back  again."  Three  days  from  Malta  brought  us  more 
than  four  hundred  miles  on  our  course;  bat  for  the  last  day  and  a 
half,  we  had  merely  traversed  and  retraversed  the  gulf  of  Kolokythia. 

Nov.  24.  We  found  ourselves,  this  morning,  near  the  western 
shore  of  the  gulf    Mt.  Taygetus  towered  in  the  east,  in  snow-cap- 


56 


GREEK  SEAMEN  THE  CAPTAIN. 


ped  and  cloud-capped  subJimity.  About  sun-rise,  we  wore  ship 
again  to  recross  the  gulf.  The  shores  around  us  formed  a  great 
amphitheatre,  in  the  centre  of  which  we  were  sailing.  The  surface 
of  the  land  appeared  rough  and  sterile  ;  and  the  villages  small  and 
miserable;  but  the  scenery  as  a  whole,  was  truly  magnificent.  Just 
before  noon,  we  again  reached  the  Cervi,  and  threw  out  our  anchor 
under  the  lee  of  one  of  them,  the  weather  being  still  too  rough  in 
the  judgment  of  our  prudent  mariners,  to  attempt  to  double  the 
frightful  cape.  We  felt  little  apprehension  of  disaster,  on  board  the 
"Neptune."  Our  captain  and  crew,  a  yankee  would  have  pro- 
nounced, egregious  cowards.  Their  manoeuvres  in  that  gulf,  afford 
a  fair  illustration  of  their  nautical  courage.  Nor  was  our  fellow 
passenger  with  his  excellent  American  education,  a  whit  before  his 
countrymen,  in  this  particular.  He  trembled  like  an  aspen  leaf 
most  of  the  time  after  we  entered  the  gulf,  and  did  little  more  than 
importune  the  captain,  to  anchor — to  anchor.  An  American  cap- 
tain would  never  have  thought  of  turning  back,  or  stopping  a  mo- 
ment, for  those  winds.  But  let  me  not  be  misunderstood.  1  would 
far  sooner  encounter  the  tardiness  of  Greek  timidity,  than  entrust 
property  or  life  to  the  adventurous  and  often  reckless  daring  of  many 
American  navigators.  Here,  again,  might  not  the  nautical  charac- 
teristics of  the  two  be  compounded  with  important  advantages  to 
both  ?  Had  the  Greek  captain  one  half  of  the  American's  courage 
and  energy,  he  would  doubtless  redeem  one  third  of  his  time  and 
greatly  enliance  his  employer's  profit.  And  had  the  American  cap- 
tain a  portion  of  the  Greek's  prudence,  or  timidity,  if  such  it  be, 
how  much  fewer  would  be  our  merchantmen  wrecked  and  our 
steam-boats  blown  up  !  It  must  be  a  defective  economy  that  paves 
the  ocean  and  our  rivers  with  so  much  of  the  fruits  of  American  in- 
terprise  and  toil ;  beggars  such  multitudes — clothes  communities  in 
sackcloth — and  fills  so  many  houses  and  rends  so  many  hearts  with 
the  agonies  of  grief  and  distress. 

But  we  will  return  to  the  Neptune.  Soon  after  our  anchors  were 
cast,  the  sailors  were  fishing,  their  fears  all  quelled,  and  the  captain 
came  down  into  the  cabin  to  pay  us  a  visit.  I  was  more  and  more 
surprised  by  his  intelligence  and  discrimination.  We  conversed, 
this  afternoon,  through  Mr.  P.  as  our  interpreter,  about  three 
hours.  Our  topics  were  miscellaneous,  as  American  history  and 
prosperity,  the  present  state  of  Greece,  our  own  missionary  enter- 
prize,  future  location,  etc.  As  this  captain  was  a  good  specimen 
of  the  higher  orders  of  Greek  mind  moderately  cultivated,  I  may 
give  the  reader  some  of  the  items  of  our  conversation,  a  little  more 
in  detail.  As  we  began  to  speak  of  America,  he  took  from  his 
drawer  an  abridged  life  of  Franklin,  in  modern  Greek,  with  a  like- 
ness, and  said,  "I  love  him  because  he  was  a  friend  of  liberty." 
He  was  much  interested  in  our  minute  account  of  the  adventures  of 
the  Pilgrims  who  first  settled  New  England,  and  remarked,  that  the 
oricrin  of  the  Greeks,  aa  a  nation,  was  very  similar.    He  knew 


IDEAS  OF  AMERICA  SKEPTICISM. 


57 


Washington's  reputation  and  admired  his  character.  He  thought 
there  was  nothing  very  marvellous  in  the  revolutionary  valor  of  the 
Americans,  aided  as  they  were  by  the  French;  but  regarded  it  as 
wonderful,  that  they  were  able  to  frame  such  an  unequalled  system 
of  government.  The  Indians,  he  thought,  had  shared  a  hard  fate 
from  the  Europeans.  He  inquired  whether  the  whites  ever  inter- 
marry with  them ;  and  on  being  told  that  they  sometimes  do,  he 
replied,  that  it  became  the  Europeans,  rather  than  the  Indians,  to 
seek  to  promote  such  connexions,  to  atone,  if  possible,  for  the 
wrongs  they  have  inflicted;  and  that  condescension,  if  there  were 
any,  would  be  on  the  part  of  the  natives.  He  had  even  heard  of 
South  Carolina  nullification,  then  of  recent  celebrity,  and  inquired 
with  much  interest  whether  its  leaders  had  been  apprehended. 
We  reminded  him  that  our  national  blessings  resulted  from  the 
Bible  and  the  general  diffusion  of  knowledge.  "Very  probable," 
he  replied;  but  proceeded  to  develope  his  infidel  principles.  "The 
Bible,"  said  he,  "  is  a  fine  book ;  but  I  do  not  believe  it  is  inspired ; 
Luke,  the  Evangelist,  for  instance,  did  not  live  until  three  hundred 
years  after  Christ,"  and  so  on.  He  had  obviously  caught  a  few 
floating  infidel  objections,  and  without  stopping  to  canvass  their 
validity,  used  them  as  a  quietus  to  his  conscience.  It  is  still  true 
that  "  the  Greeks  seek  after  wisdom;"  but,  unhappily,  it  is  little 
more  than  the  wisdom  of  this  world.  In  relation  to  Greece,  he 
said  he  regretted  the  interference  of  foreigners  in  their  government; 
that  England  and  France  had  been  merely  seeking  to  feather  their 
own  nests,  with  all  their  ostentation  of  philanthropy;  and  that  but 
for  them,  the  Greeks  might  now  have  enjoyed  an  elective  system. 

In  relation  to  our  prospects,  he  manifested  deep  interest.  "  The 
place  to  which  you  go,"  said  he,  "  is  good  enough,  but  the  thing  is 
to  get  there;"  a  remark  fraught  with  more  of  truth  than  poetry,  as 
we  then  supposed  and  have  since  fully  learned  by  experience.  Mr. 
P.  translated  to  him  the  hymn  commencing,  "Yes,  my  native 
land,  I  love  thee,"  which  we  informed  him  was  sung  on  the  occasion 
of  our  marriage  a  little  before  our  embarkation.  "  0,  it  is  aflfect- 
ing,"  he  exclaimed,  and  appeared  fully  to  catch  its  inspiration. 
He  inquired  for  our  respective  homes,  which  we  pointed  out  to  him 
on  the  map ;  and  he  expressed  great  wonder  how  we  ever  found 
each  other  at  such  a  distance,  (160  miles,)  which  would  indicate 
but  a  very  limited  intercourse  between  the  different  parts  of  Greece  ; 
or,  what  is  more  probable,  that  matrimonial  alliances  are  seldom 
thought  of,  by  the  Greeks,  out  of  their  respective  clans,  or  immediate 
circles  of  acquaintance.  He  marvelled  how  we  could  consent  to 
leave  our  country  and  friends,  and  inquired  how  soon  we  intended 
to  return;  and  when  told,  never,  he  sighed  and  seemed  almost 
overcome.  He  wondered  most  that  ladies  could  thus  leave  home, 
and  said  that  nothing  could  account  for  the  fact,  but  their  ardent 
attachment  to  their  husbands.  We  told  him  that  some  American 
ladies  go  out  single  to  teach  the  benighted ;  this  perplexed  him  at 


58 


ESTIMATION  OF  AMERICA. 


first,  but  he  finally  proscribed  this  practice  altogether  as  a  most 
flagrant  anomaly,  and  resumed  his  former  position,  charging  me  to 
take  good  care  of  Mrs.  Perkins,  inasmuch  as  she  showed  an  attach- 
ment to  me  strong  enough  to  tear  her  from  kindred  and  home,  and 
carry  her  to  distant  Persia.  He  could  not  be  reconciled  to  the  idea 
of  our  never  returning,  and  said  that  we  ought  to  come  back  in  five 
or  ten  years,  that  this  period  would  be  amply  sufficient  for  us  to  do 
our  •penance.  We  assured  him  that  we  embarked  in  the  enterprise 
for  life,  voluntarily,  and  while  some  of  our  friends  strongly  en- 
deavored to  detain  us  in  our  country.  "Well,"  said  he,  "  your 
sacrifice  is  praise-worthy,  but  your  prospects  to  me  appear  very 
dark."  We  told  him  that  our  sole  object  was  to  enlighten  the 
Nestorians  by  circulating  the  Scriptures  and  diffusing  religious 
knowledge  and  truth  among  them,  and  that  our  only  hope  of  success 
was  in  the  blessing  of  God.  "  Ah,"  he  replied,  "  Christians  always 
say  '  there  is  hope  only  in  God.' "  This  captain  cherishes  a  high 
veneration  for  the  American  character,  as  the  Greeks  generally  do. 
They  call  all  missionaries ,  Americans.  The  captain  placed  a  large 
trunk  about  one  third  full  of  Italian  dollars,  unlocked,  in  my  state- 
room, during  our  voyage,  regarding  my  American  citizenship  as  a 
full  warrant  for  the  safety  of  his  money. 

At  evening  prayers,  George,  our  cabin  boy,  stood  near  our  door. 
I  requested  Mr.  P.  after  worship,  to  explain  to  him  the  nature  of  our 
services, — that  American  Christians  read  their  Bibles  morning  and 
evening,  and  pray  to  God  together  in  their  families,  thanking  hira 
for  past  mercies,  imploring  pardon  for  their  sins,  and  seeking  future 
blessings.  "  We  used  to  pray  on  board  the  vessel,"  replied  the 
boy,  "  but  have  done  now."  Mr.  P.  had  before  remarked  to  me, 
that  there  was  less  appearance  of  piety,  (in  the  Greek  sense,)  on 
board  our  vessel  than  he  had  expected  to  find.  There  were  no 
crosses  nor  pictures.  Indeed,  the  more  intelligent  Greeks  are  gene- 
rally becoming  infidels ;  and  no  marvel ;  ignorance  and  superstition 
are  so  far  from  being  the  parents  of  devotion,  that  sooner  or  later 
they  prove  the  hotbeds  of  open  irreligion.  Perhaps  the  present 
prevalence  of  infidelity  among  the  Greeks  is,  however,  not  less 
favorable  to  the  revival  of  evangelical  piety  among  them,  than  their 
former  deep-rooted  superstitions.  Greek  seamen  would  not  probably 
suffer  in  comparison  with  our  own,  as  a  class,  on  the  score  of  irreli- 
gion ;  and  they  certainly  possess  some  qualities  of  character,  that 
might  be  worthily  emulated  by  Americans.  Instead  of  the  morose, 
sullen  air,  that  too  generally  lowers  on  the  brows  of  American 
officers  and  crews,  especially  in  bad  weather,  the  Greeks  are  patient, 
cheerful  and  affable.  This  difference,  in  my  view,  is  greatly  owing 
to  the  fact,  that  our  seamen  are  so  much  excluded  from  female  so- 
ciety,— at  least,  in  virtuous  connexions.  The  Greeks  usually  have 
families,  and  their  dispositions  are  softened  and  sweetened,  and 
their  spirits  buoyed  up,  by  the  tender  relations,  endearments  and 
recollections  of  home.    It  is  painful  to  think  of  the  unfavorable  im- 


GOING  ON  SHORE  A  SPELLING  BOOK. 


59 


pressiona  which  too  many  of  the  seamen  of  our  country  leave  on 
foreign  nations.  It  seems  to  be  assumed  by  many  American  cap- 
tains, that  blustering,  anger  and  profaneness  are  indispensable  to 
the  maintenance  of  proper  authority  on  board  their  vessels,  and 
equally  to  the  character  of  "  men  of  spirit"  on  shore.  Happily, 
the  evil  of  intemperance  is,  I  believe,  diminishing  among  our  sea- 
men. And  the  benevolent  efforts  now  made  to  improve  their  morals 
and  their  religious  condition  have,  doubtless,  a  very  happy  and  exten- 
sive influence  in  other  respects.  But  such  efforts  should  be  many  fold 
increased.  No  life  is  harder  than  that  of  our  seamen ;  and  to  few 
classes  of  her  citizens  is  our  country  more  indebted.  They,  more- 
over, are  our  national  representatives  to  almost  every  port  in  the 
world ;  and  the  pious  among  them  are  also  the  living  epistles  of  the 
churches  to  every  people  under  heaven. 

Nov.  25.  Though  there  was  but  a  single  cloud  in  the  skies,  that 
one  lowered  in  sullen  blackness  on  the  ridge  and  along  the  side  of 
the  mountain  that  terminates  at  cape  Malea.  "  That  mountain," 
said  the  captain,  "  we  must  see  clear,  before  we  can  weigh  anchor 
and  proceed."  Early  in  the  morning,  a  man  on  a  small  jackass 
rode  down  to  the  shore  under  which  we  lay,  thus  showing  that  the 
Cervi  are  not  entirely  uninhabited.  In  the  afternoon,  the  captain 
and  Mrs.  P.  and  myself  went  on  shore.  On  the  way,  we  passed 
two  small  Greek  schooners,  one  from  Trieste  and  the  other  from 
Navarino,  which  had  anchored  there  in  the  morning.  The  captain 
of  one  of  them  informed  us,  that  the  Greek  government  had  silenced 
three  of  the  four  Greek  periodicals,  for  alleged  abuse  on  part  of  the 
editors  in  censuring  its  own  august  policy.  The  Greeks  seemed 
quite  indignant  at  the  proceeding.  On  the  island,  we  fell  in  with  a 
ragged  shepherd  boy,  watching  his  flock.  The  boy  was  deeply  en- 
gaged in  preparing  a  rude  musical  instrument,  from  a  crooked  stick. 
The  Greeks  must  all  have  mxisic  of  some  kind.  Our  crew  were  al- 
most constantly  humming  their  plaintive  ballads  or  tinkling  with 
their  fingers  on  their  rude  violins.  On  our  way  back  to  the  boat, 
we  gathered  a  great  variety  of  beautiful  shells.  We  enjoyed  our 
ramble  the  more  from  the  consciousness  of  then  treading,  for  the 
first  time,  upon  the  soil  of  renowned,  ancient  Greece. 

In  the  evening,  George  sat  reading  in  a  small  book  near  the  cabin 
door.  Mr.  P.  requested  him  to  show  us  the  book,  which  we  found 
to  be  a  collection  of  excellent  prayers  for  persons  in  various  condi- 
tions and  circumstances,  published  by  the  Rev.  William  Jovvett,  of 
the  Church  Missionary  Society.  The  boy  then  brought  forward  a 
small  spelling  book,  prepared  by  Mr.  Wilson,  at  Malta,  and  holding 
it  up,  said,  "  this  taught  me  to  read."  We  inquired  where  he  ob- 
tained it,  and  he  replied,  "  a  boy  in  Alexandria  gave  it  to  me."  I 
asked  him  how  long  he  had  been  to  sea  ;  "  Ever  since  I  was  eight 
ears  old,"  he  replied;  he  was  then  fifteen.  We  inquired  whether 
e  h?Ld  ever  been  to  school ;  "  two  months"  he  answered,  "  and  the 
rest  I  have  learned  by  myself  on  board  the  vessel"    He  couJd  read 


60 


MILO  SERPHO  GREEK  FAST. 


any  book  fluently,  and  showed  us  a  letter  to  his  uncle  which  he  had 
written  in  a  handsome  hand.  I  inquired  of  George  how  he  would 
like  to  become  qualified  to  teach  school  and  labor  thus  to  benefit 
his  countrymen.  "  Pretty  well,"  he  replied  ;  but  on  second  thought 
added,  "  I  should  like  much  better  to  become  qualified  to  keep  a 
store  in  my  native  town," — thus  disclosing  the  strong  passion  of  the 
Greeks  for  trade  and  for  wealth. 

Nov.  26.  At  three  o'clock  this  morning,  we  weighed  anchor 
and  proceeded,  the  wind,  though  less  strong,  being  still  nearly 
ahead.  Just  at  daybreak,  we  doubled  the  formidable  cape  Malea. 
At  sunrise  the  rocky  islands  of  Cerigotto  and  Porri  appeared  at  some 
distance  to  the  south,  Crete  was  visible  farther  to  the  east,  and  Mi- 
lo  just  glistened  directly  under  the  rays  of  the  sun.  We  made 
small  progress,  during  the  day,  by  tacking.  The  captain  sat  on 
deck,  reading  the  book  of  Genesis,  recently  published,  in  modern 
Greek,  at  Corfu.  He  appeared  deeply  interested  in  the  history 
which  he  had  never  before  read. 

Nov.  27.  In  the  morning,  we  found  ourselves  advancing  toward 
Milo  and  quite  near  it.  The  small  lofty  island,  Falconera,  was  on 
our  left  and  the  Ananeson  our  right.  The  latter  are  several  small, 
rocky  islets.  Milo  has  one  of  the  best  harbors  in  the  Mediterranean , 
and  here  vessels  often  stop  and  take  pilots  to  conduct  them  through 
the  perilous  passages  of  the  Aegean.  Anti-Milo  is  a  small  island 
a  few  miles  to  the  north  west  of  Milo. 

The  next  islands  presented  to  our  view  were,  Argentera,  on  our 
right,  and,  beyond  it,  Siphante  and  Serpho  on  our  left.  Serpho  is 
so  mountainous,  that  the  poets  tell  us,  that  Perseus  transformed  its 
inhabitants  into  stone.  It  contains  mines  of  iron  and  lead.  Its  pro- 
duce is  small,  but  its  onions  are  particularly  celebrated.  The  an- 
cient Romans  made  Serpho  a  place  of  banishment.  According  to 
Aelian,  the  frogs  of  this  island  never  croaked,  unless  they  were  trans- 
ported elsewhere,  when  they^became  more  noisy  than  others ;  and 
hence  the  proverb,  Seriphia  rana,  applied  to  mute  persons.  Its 
frogs,  however,  are  I  believe  not  wanting  in  loquacity  in  modern 
times,  on  their  native  island.  To-day,  a  Greek  fast  of  twenty-five 
days  commenced  ;  and  our  crew,  notwithstanding  their  lax,  infidel 
principles,  excluded  all  meat  from  their  meals.  But  it  matters  not 
how  voraciously  they  partake  of  vegetable  diet. 

Nov.  27.  This  morning  we  passed  along  the  islands  St.  George 
and  Thermia  on  our  left, — Attica  also  appeared  at  a  distance,  in  the 
same  direction.  And  the  island  of  Syra,  our  captain's  home,  and 
where  he  now  wished  to  stop  until  his  annual  ship  papers  should  be 
renewed,  was  in  full  view  at  mid-day.  Zea  appeared  at  a  distance 
beyond  Thermia  on  our  left,  and  Paros,  and  Anti-Paros,  renowned 
for  their  marble,  were  in  sight  at  the  south-east  We  passed  very 
near  Piperi,  a  small,  uninhabited  island.  Its  south  end  is  a  bold, 
perpendicular  rock,  about  one  hundred  feet  high.  We  guessed,  that 
to-day  might  be  Thanksgiving,  in  old  Massachusetts.   And  though 


SYRA  UPPER  AND  LOWER  TOWNS. 


6t 


not  permitted  lo  take  seats  there  at  the  table  and  share  in  the  baked 
turkey  and  chicken  pie,  we  could  unite  with  our  friends  in  hearty 
thanksgivings  to  God, — and  especially  for  his  protection  and  mercies 
to  us,  while  we  had  been  so  long  tossing  on  the  bosom  of  the  mighty 
deep.  At  6  o'clock,  P.  M.  we  rode  into  the  harbor  of  Syra.  It 
is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  island.  Syra  is  rocky  and  barren, 
containing  scarcely  an  inhabitant  beyond  the  city  of  the  same  name, 
which  is  itself  situated  on  the  side  of  a  high  mountain.  The  old 
town  is  back  some  distance  from  the  harbor,  and  hangs  romantical- 
ly on  a  steep  conical  declivity  near  the  mountain's  summit.  It  is 
inhabited  entirely  by  Greek  Catholics.  The  new  part  of  the  city, 
by  far  the  most  populous  and  important,  lies  directly  on  the  shore, 
having  sprung  up,  as  if  by  magic,  since  the  commencement  of  the 
Greek  revolution.  It  was  built  almost  wholly  by  refugees  from 
other  islands  that  had  been  ravaged  by  the  Turks.  It  is  now  a  busy 
city,  containing  at  least  25,000  inhabitants.  The  people  of  the  up- 
per and  lower  towns,  as  they  may  respectively  be  called,  have  scarce- 
ly more  intercourse  with  each  other  on  account  of  their  mutual  reli- 
gious antipathies,  than  had  the  Jews  and  Samaritans. 

Nov.  29.  We  obtained  pratique  early  in  the  morning  and  went 
on  shore.  We  were  equally  surprised  and  delighted  to  find  our- 
selves surrounded  by  so  active  and  enterprising  a  population.  Ma- 
ny vessels  were  in  process  of  building ;  and  the  sound  of  the  axes  of 
almost  numberless  carpenters  reminded  us  forcibly  of  ship-yards  at 
home.  The  houses.of  the  city  we  found  to  be  miserable  fabrics,  and 
thrown  together  in  the  utmost  disorder  ;  still  almost  everything  wore 
an  aspect  of  industry  and  thrift.  The  city,  though  on  the  steep  side 
of  a  mountain,  might  have  been  so  planned  and  built  as  to  have  se- 
cured to  it  great  convenience  and  beauty.  The  streets  could  have 
been  so  arranged  as  to  overlook  each  other  in  regular  succession  ; 
whereas,  as  it  is,  there  are  in  fact  no  streeta ;  but  merely  crooked, 
irregular  passes,  scarcely  wide  enough  for  a  loaded  mule  to  go  clear 
of  the  houses.  The  place,  however,  is  far  better  than  could  have 
been  expected,  in  the  circumstances,  commencing  as  the  settlement 
did  with  the  rude  shantees  of  trembling  refugees,  who  expected  to 
stop  there  only  till  the  tempest  of  war  should  subside.  The  Catho- 
lics of  the  original  town  on  the  hill  above,  were  protected  from  the 
vengeance  of  the  Turks  by  the  French;  and  it  was  under  the  pe- 
numbra of  this  foreign  influence,  that  the  refugees  sought  tempora- 
ry succor.  Their  enterprising,  restless  spirit,  however,  did  not  al- 
low them  to  remain  idle,  even  during  those  troublous  times;  but 
soon  called  into  existence  this  lower  town  among  the  cliffs  on  the 
barren  beach,  almost  as  if  by  miracle.  It  was  then  (1833)  the  most 
populous  and  important  city  in  Greece, — and  the  central  point  of 
communication  with  all  other  parts  of  the  country.  Its  commence- 
ment and  growth  are  most  interesting  mora]  phenomena,  and  espe- 
cially, as  they  so  well  illustrate  the  energy  and  capability  of  th* 
Greek  character. 


62  MEETING  WITH  FBIENDS — GREEK  WOBSHIP. 


We  had  with  us  letters  of  introduction  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hildner, 
the  German  missionary  there,  and  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Leeves,  agent  of 
the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society.  On  our  way  to  the  resi- 
dence of  the  former,  we  were  met  by  a  Greek,  acquainted  with  Mr. 
Petrakokino,  who  informed  us  that  our  countryman,  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Robertson  and  his  family  had  just  come  to  Syra  from  Athens.  We 
therefore  changed  our  course,  and  were  conducted  immediately  to 
the  house  of  Dr.  R.,  by  whom  and  his  lady  we  were  very  cordially 
welcomed,  and  kindly  entertained,  most  of  the  time  during  our  stay 
of  three  weeks  on  the  island.  Our  unexpected  and  very  providen- 
tial meeting  with  these  countrymen  and  missionary  friends  was  the 
more  agreeable,  as  Mrs.  Perkins  and  Mrs.  Robertson  are  from  the 
same  village  in  New  England.  In  the  course  of  the  day,  we  called, 
in  company  with  Dr.  R.,  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Hildner.  He  was  ab- 
sent on  a  voyage  to  England  for  his  health.  We  saw  Mrs.  H.  with 
whom  we  afterwards  had  the  pleasure  of  spending  a  few  days,  and 
soon  had  occasion  to  recognize  in  her  the  same  overflowing  kind- 
ness which  is  so  characteristic  of  Germans,  and  especially  of  Ger- 
man missionaries.  We  also  visited  Mr.  Leeves  ;  and  with  him  and 
his  family  had  the  happiness  of  frequent  interviews  and  a  delightful 
acquaintance.  He  was  engaged  in  translating  the  Old  Testament 
into  modern  Greek,  from  the  original  Hebrew. 

Nov.  30.  Early  this  morning  a  female  came  with  a  large  jar  of 
water  on  her  shoulder,  which  we  were  informed  she  had  brought 
more  than  a  mile.  The  water  used  there  for  drinking,  cooking  and 
washing  was  all  furnished  by  the  portage  of  women.  The  jar  full — 
perhaps  five  gallons — was  sold  for  about  three  cents.  We  were 
forcibly  reminded  of  the  ancient  Hebrew  custom  of  females  bearing 
water  upon  their  shoulders.  An  aqueduct,  as  the  city  is  situated, 
might  be  made  to  carry  water  from  a  single  fountain  to  every  dwell- 
ing. But  wealth,  and  not  convenience,  was  the  passion  of  the  in- 
habitants— and  particularly,  as  many  of  them  still  meditated  ex- 
changing, for  a  more  fertile  location,  what  they  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  regard  as  a  mere  covert  from  the  whirlwind  of  the"  revolu- 
tion. The  city,  however,  has  continued  to  increase,  to  the  present 
time,  in  numbers  and  in  business,  though  not  much,  I  believe,  in 
taste  and  order.  Street  beggars  are  numerous  in  Syra,  though  far 
less  so  and  less  annoying  than  at  Maha.  In  the  afternoon,  I  called 
with  Dr.  R.  at  one  of  the  Greek  churches.  The  people  had  assem- 
bled and  their  Sabbath  service,  (Saturday,  P.M.)  had  commenced. 
It  was  truly  affecting  to  witness  the  heartlessness  of  their  worship, 
— to  observe  their  genufle.xions,  crossings  and  bowings  before  pic- 
tures, and  listen  to  the  mummery  of  their  recitals.  In  some  parts  of 
the  house,  individuals  were  engaged  in  social  conversation.  Near 
us,  the  sexton  was  purchasing  candles  for  the  use  of  the  church. 
Much  of  the  Greek  liturgy  is  excellent;  but  being  thus  senselessly 
and  hurriedly  muttered  in  a  dead  language,  (the  ancient  Greek,) 
by  ignorant  ecclesiastics,  how  could  it  be  otherwise  than  uninter- 


SCIOTES  CLANS  SCHOOLS. 


63 


esting  and  unprofitable  1  My  spirit  was  stirred  within  me,  as  was 
Paul's  in  him  at  Athena,  when  I  thus  saw  the  city  wholly  given  to 
idolatry.  And  could  my  tongue  have  been  loosed  to  speak  their 
language,  Him  whom  they  so  ignorantly  worshipped,  would  I  gladly 
have  declared  unto  them. 

Dec.  1.  Just  before  going  to  attend  meeting,  at  the  house  of  Mr. 
Hildner,  several  Greek  ladies  called  to  see  us.    The  Sabbath  is  the 
visiting  day  of  the  Greeks.    Dr.  R.  told  them,  that  we  were  about 
going  to  our  worship  and  were  not  moreover  in  the  habit  of  seeing 
company  on  the  Sabbath,  and  they  soon  quietly  retired.    It  was  re- 
marked, that  these  ladies  were  Sciotes.    The  emigrants  from  Scio 
were  regarded  as  the  aristocracy  of  Syra.    They  are  fine  looking 
people,  intelligent  and  enterprising;  and,  a  circumstance  to  which 
they  attach  still  higher  importance,  as  establishing  their  claim  to 
superiority,  they  usually  dress  in  Frank  costume.    The  inhabi- 
tants of  Syra  are  all  clannish ; — ^those  who  emigrated  from  a  given 
island  herding  together  in  society,  and  in  business  so  far  as  practi- 
cable, and  retaining  more  or  less  the  peculiarities  of  the  dress  and 
customs  of  their  native  island.  These  clannish  partialities  give  to  the 
population  a  somewhat  motley  appearance,  and  create  among  them 
some  party  hostilities.    But  they  also  impart  a  degree  of  emulation 
and  competition  to  the  rival  classes,  not  unfavorable  to  their  enter- 
prise and  general  improvement.    Gradually,  their  local  and  lineal 
attachment  will  doubtless  be  forgotten  and  the  whole  mass  be  united 
in  a  feeling  of  common  patriotism  for  their  new  country  and  home. 

Dec.  2.  We  visited  the  principal  schools  on  the  island.  I  had 
formed  no  adequate  conception  of  the  intelligence,  order  and  im- 
provement that  characterize  those  schools,  nor  did  I  suppose  that 
any  such  schools  existed  in  Greece.  In  the  school  of  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Hildner,  who  labors  under  the  patronage  of  the  Church  Missionary 
Society,  were  four  hundred  and  fifty  children,  of  different  ages  and 
both  sexes,  each  in  a  separate  department,  all  regularly  classed  and 
instructed  on  the  monitorial  system.  One  of  the  teachers — all  na- 
tive Greeks — had  spent  some  time  in  an  institution  at  Basle,  in 
Switzerland,  to  qualify  himself  for  teaching.  I  felt  an  additional 
interest  in  this  school,  from  the  fact,  that  it  had  an  American  ori- 
gin,— having  been  commenced  several  years  before,  by  our  country- 
man the  Rev.  J.  Brewer.  We  also  visited  the  school  of  Professor 
Bambas.  It  contained  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  young  men  and 
boys,  who  were  evidently  enjoying  excellent  discipline  and  instruc- 
tion. This  school  has  some  public  patronage.  When  we  arrived, 
the  professor  was  delivering  a  philosophical  lecture.  A  considera- 
ble number  of  the  citizens  of  the  town,  as  well  as  the  members  of 
the  school,  were  present;  and  among  them,  the  Greek  bishop  of 
the  island  and  several  Roman  Catholic  priests.  Every  Thursday, 
he  was  in  the  habit  of  delivering  a  biblical  lecture  to  about  the  same 
audience.  At  the  close  of  the  exercise,  we  were  introduced  to  Prof. 
B.    He  is  a  deacon,  in  clerical  orders.    He  was  connected  with  the 


64 


PROF.  BAMBAS  DELOS  TENOS. 


celebrated  Greek  college  on  the  island  of  Scio,  which  was  broken 
up  by  the  storms  of  the  revolution.  He  was  Subsequently  engaged, 
several  years,  in  a  public  institution  in  Corfu — the  largest  of  the 
Ionian  islands.  He  had  recently  come  to  Syra;  and  in  addition  to 
the  charge  of  his  flourishing  high  school,  was  assisting  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Leeves  in  the  translation  of  the  Bible  and  in  preparing  a  grammar  of 
the  modern  Greek,  besides  prosecuting  some  other  literary  labors. 
An  able  and  zealous  champion  of  Greek  education,  he  has  also 
been  an  ardent  friend,  coadjutor  and  vindicator  of  Protestant  mis- 
sionaries in  Greece,  during  all  the  opposition  they  have  experienced 
from  some  of  his  ungrateful  countrymen,  instigated  by  their  igno- 
rant, bigotted  priesthood.  He  is  a  fine  looking  man,  and  very  pleas- 
ant and  cordial  in  his  manners.  His  bright  black  eye  and  flowing 
beard  give  him  a  striking  and  imposing  appearance,  resembling,  as 
we  fancied,  that  of  the  ancient  sages  of  his  country.  The  mission- 
aries, Parsons  and  Fisk,  had  been  his  pupils,  several  years  before, 
in  learning  modern  Greek,  on  the  island  of  Scio.  He  spoke  of  them 
and  evidently  cherishes  a  warm  and  sacred  veneration  for  their  me- 
mory. I  have  seldom  been  more  interested,  in  any  spectacle,  than 
that  presented  by  these  Greek  schools ;  and  I  could  not  help  wish- 
ing, that  the  patrons  of  Greek  education,  in  America,  could  have 
gazed  with  me  upon  the  scenes  there  presented.  Their  hearts  would 
have  throbbed  with  surprise  and  joy,  and  beat  high  with  hope  for 
the  elevation  and  salvation  of  renowned,  but  now  fallen,  Greece. 

Dec.  5.  The  weather  was  delightful,  and  I  rambled  away,  alone, 
to  the  extreme  north-east  part  of  the  city.  Paros  and  Anti-Paros 
appeared  in  the  distant  horizon  to  the  south-east.  Delos  was  quite 
near — within  ten  miles — to  the  east,  and  Tenos,  at  about  the  same 
distance  to  the  north-east.  Delos,  celebrated  as  the  birth-place  of 
Apollo  and  Diana,  and  the  centre  of  the  cluster  of  islands  called  Cy- 
clades,  contained  a  magnificent  temple  dedicated  to  Apollo,  erected 
at  the  joint  expense  of  the  Grecian  States,  and  renowned  for  its  ora- 
cle. The  island  is  now  covered  with  ruins,  among  which,  columns, 
altars,  porticoes  and  inscriptions  attest  its  former  claims  to  celebrity. 
A  large  amount  of  these  ruins  have  been  transported  to  Western 
Europe,  for  the  gratification  of  the  curious.  An  antiquarian  com- 
mittee appointed  by  the  Greek  government  have  now  arrested  the 
process  of  spoliation.  Delos  is  only  about  eight  miles  in  circuit, 
of  a  rocky  surface,  and  now  uninhabited.  Tenos,  or  Tino,  is  of  a 
long  oval  form,  about  sixty  miles  in  circumference,  mountainous, 
but  well  cultivated.  It  contains  about  sixty  villages.  Those  upon 
the  south  side  appear  very  beautiful  as  seen  from  Syra.  Their  white 
walls,  with  here  and  there  a  lofl:y  tower,  are  neat  and  quite  impos- 
incr.  In  the  afternoon,  we  visited  our  captain.  He  had  a  fine  fat 
boy,  and  an  intelligent,  handsome  wife,  to  the  acquaintance  of  both 
of  whom  he  appeared  very  happy  to  introduce  ns.  At  evening,  we 
visited  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Leeves.  On  our  way  there,  as  we  were 
passing  a  Greek  church,  a  baptism  was  about  to  take  place,  which 


A  GREEK  BAPTISM. 


65 


a  motive,  I  fear,  not  much  better  than  curiosity,  prompted  us  to  stop 
and  see.  The  god-father  and  god-niother  who  brouglit  the  child,  a 
priest  and  deacon  and  two  or  three  servants  composed  the  assembly. 
The  rite  was  performed  in  the  evening,  because  the  sponsors  being 
laborers,  could  not  find  time  to  attend  to  it  during  the  dtiy.  The 
priest  met  the  child  at  the  door,  and  before  it  was  permitted  to  en- 
ter the  church,  read  over  it  severaJ  nninutes  from  a  church  book. 
The  child  was  then  brought  in  ;  the  priest  took  it  in  his  arms,  blew 
over  it  and  spit ;  in  other  words,  he  exorcized.  He  then  read  on, 
the  sponsors  holding  the  child,  and  occasionally  responding  to  his 
interrogatories  and  nodding  assent  to  their  obligations  as  enjoined. 
The  god-father  was  at  length  directed  to  blow  and  spit,  with  the 
child  in  his  arms;  but  being  an  ignorant,  unpractised  man,  he  did 
this  UPON  the  child,  rather  than  over  it ;  and  the  priest  hastily  inter- 
rupting, in  an  angry,  chiding  tone,  exclaimed,  "  blow  and  spit  upon 
Satan,  and  not  upon  the  child.'"  Next,  the  water  was  crossed  by 
the  hand  of  the  priest  twice,  a  few  moments  intervening;  then  oil 
was  poured  upon  it  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  and  incense  burnt  over 
it.  The  child  was  then  divested  of  all  its  clothing  and  oiled  by  the 
priest  and  baptized.  The  quantity  of  water  used  was  about  a  com- 
mon pail  full,  brought  warm  in  a  large  copper  urn.  The  child  was 
set  down,  three  times,  into  the  vessel ;  and  the  water,  dipped  up  by 
the  hands  of  the  priest  the  same  number  of  times,  was  poured  upon 
its  head,  the  name  of  the  Father,  Son,  and  Holy  Spirit,  being  pro- 
nounced— one  of  them  each  time,  and  in  the  regular  order.  The 
child  resisted  and  struggled,  when  placed  in  the  water;  and  the 
priest  impatiently  broke  out  once  or  twice,  in  the  midst  of  the  solemn 
declaration,  in  this  manner  :  "  I  baptize  thee  {'sit  down'')  in  the 
name,"  etc.  Impressive  as  this  ordinance  always  is,  when  intelli- 
gently and  reverently  performed,  it  seemed,  in  this  instance,  like 
solemn  mockery  !  The  child  was  next  further  anointed  ;  the  priest 
and  the  sponsors  washed  their  hands  in  the  water  in  which  it  had 
been  baptized  ;  incense  was  again  burned  over  the  same  ;  a  small 
white  shirt — the  robe  of  righteousness — was  thrown  by  the  priest 
over  the  child ;  he  proceeded  some  time  longer  with  reading  and 
chanting,  and  finally  concluded  the  ceremonies  by  pronouncing  a 
benediction.  The  whole  service  was  performed  in  ancient  Greek, 
and  probably  the  infant  understood  about  as  much  of  it  as  either 
sponsors  or  priest ;  especially,  as  the  main  object  of  the  latter  seem- 
ed to  be,  to  hurry  through  the  routine  as  rapidly  as  possible.  We 
left  the  church  more  than  ever  impressed  with  the  deep  spiritual 
darkness  of  this  degraded  people. 

Dec.  7.  In  company  with  Dr.  R.,  I  visited  the  Athenaeum  and  the 
Lyceum.  The  former  is  a  reading-room  where  several  French  and 
Italian  periodicals  are  taken ;  also  the  organs  of  the  Greek  govern- 
ment. The  latter  is  a  room  furnished  and  used  by  an  association  of 
young  men.  In  it  they  had  a  library  of  five  or  six  hundred  volumes, 
several  periodicals,  and  a  few  specimens  of  sculpture.  We  were  pain- 

9 


66 


MONASTERY  A  STORM. 


ed  to  find  the  library  composed  mostly  of  the  works  of  modern  infidels. 
All  the  works  of  Voltaire  and  Rousseau,  and  many  others  of  a  kin- 
dred character,  were  here.  Will  not  the  benevolent  and  phihni- 
thropic  hasten  to  provide  and  furnish  books,  by  scores,  hundreds 
and  thousands,  of  a  better  description,  to  arrest  the  deadly  inroads 
of  such  streams  of  infidelity  !  "  The  Greeks,"  I  repeat,  "  seek  after 
%visdom."  They  tcill  have  books  of  some  kind.  Their  craving 
desire  for  knowledge  cannot,  and  should  not,  be  smothered.  It 
must  be  fed  with  healthful  nutriment. 

Dec.  10.  With  Dr.  R.  and  his  family,  we  ascended  to  the  very 
pinnacle  of  the  upper  town.  It  is  built,  as  before  mentioned,  on 
the  sides  of  a  lofty  conical  hill,  which  terminates  in  a  mere  point. 
Upon  the  very  ape.K,  was  a  monastery,  then  in  process  of  erection. 
The  passes  up  through  the  town  are  very  steep,  crooked,  narrow 
and  filthy.  The  swine  were  numerous,  filling-  the  streets  by  day, 
and  occupying  apartments  under  the  same  roofs  with  their  owners 
at  night.  In  this  remote  village,  the  missionary.  Parsons,  lay  sick 
and  nigh  unto  death  in  lb21.  How  comfortless  must  have  been 
his  solitary  situation  !  But  the  angel  of  the  Lord  encampeth  round 
about  them  that  fear  him.  Almost  inconceivable  labor  must  have 
been  put  in  requisition  to  rear  such  an  edifice  as  the  monastery,  at 
the  top  of  the  upper  town  !  What  obstacles  will  not  Papal  super- 
stition surmount !  What  a  lesson  was  here  to  nerve  the  arm  of 
Protestant  zeal  ! 

Dec.  15.  We  have  been  spending  a  few  days  very  pleasantly 
with  Mrs.  Hildner.  During  the  last  night,  the  rain  fell  in  torrents; 
and  many  of  the  flat  roofs  of  Syra,  covered  over  with  earth,  can  ill 
encounter  such  storms.  Mrs.  P.  and  myself  happened  to  lodge 
under  such  a  roof.  About  2  o'clock,  A.  M.,  the  rain  reached  us. 
We  rose  and  retreated  a  little,  but  were  scarcely  asleep  before  we 
were  again  in  the  rain.  We  arose  a  second  time,  and  removed  our 
bed,  but  the  rain  soon  followed,  and  thus  we  manceuvred,  retreating 
and  being  pursued  by  the  advancing  rain,  till  we  reached  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  room,  when  fortunately  morning  came.  But  how 
trifling  was  our  discomfort,  compared  with  that  of  multitudes.  The 
wind,  as  well  as  the  rain,  was  terrible.  The  frail  fabrics  on  the 
declivities  around  us  were  tottering,  and  many  of  them  fell.  Cries 
of  distress  from  the  houseless  rang  in  our  ears  in  every  direction, 
and  even  came  up  from  the  harbor,  which  is  a  spacious  and  safe 
one,  but  where  scores  of  vessels  were  now  tossing  and  rolling,  and 
their  cables  failing,  and  in  the  course  of  a  few  days,  an  almost  in- 
credible number  of  frightful  wrecks  at  sea  were  reported  from  different 
parts  of  the  Levant.  We  felt  constrained  to  admire  and  acknow- 
ledge the  goodness  of  God,  in  having  crossed  our  wishes.  We  had 
earnestly  desired  to  proceed  on  our  way,  with  much  less  delay  at 
Syra.  Had  we  done  so,  we  too  should  now  have  been  tossed  upon 
the  billows,  if  not  sunk  in  the  deep  or  wrecked  on  the  strand; 
whereas,  an  unseen  but  more  than  parental  hand  kindly  kept  us 


PSARA  SCIO  MT.  ATHOS  TROY. 


67 


back,  in  quiet  upon  the  dry  land,  till  after  this  fearful  storm,  when 
we  were  succeasfuily  wafted,  as  will  soon  appear,  to  our  still  distant 
destination,  in  the  short  period  of  three  days. 

Dec.  17.  In  the  morning  we  were  informed  that  our  captain  had 
at  Jast  received  his  desired  papers  from  Naupiea,  and  would  sail 
in  a  few  hours.  After  dinner  we  hastily  put  our  effects  in  readi- 
ness, took  leave  of  our  kind  missionary  friends  to  whom  we  felt 
ourselves  laid  under  great  obligation,  and  about  4  o'clock,  P.  M., 
went  again  on  board  the  "Neptune."  We  found,  as  fellow-pas- 
sengers, about  twenty  persons,  Greeks,  Russians  and  Turks.  A 
fine  breeze  from  the  south-west  wafted  us  rapidly  on  our  course,  and 
just  as  the  sun  left  the  horizon,  Syra  also  faded  from  our  view. 

Dec.  18.  A  strong  wind  bore  us  onward  during  the  last  night, 
and  early  this  morning,  we  found  ourselves  passing  between  Scio 
and  Psara.  These  islands  were  desolated  by  the  Turks,  daring  the 
struggles  of  the  revolution.  Our  captain  and  some  of  the  crew 
were  natives  of  the  latter.  Their  countenances,  as  we  passed,  be- 
spoke their  tender  recollections  of  country  and  home.  They  used 
their  utmost  efforts,  by  signs  and  gestures,  to  give  me  an  idea  of 
Turkish  barbarity,  and  uttered  the  name  of  Turk  with  the  deepest 
disdain.  The  day  was  delightful  and  comfortably  warm  ;  but  Scio 
had  snow  on  its  loftiest  summits.  We  were  now  fairly  within  the 
territory  of  the  Porte,  Scio  and  Psara  being  still  retained  by  the 
Turks.  Reminiscences,  at  once  thrilling,  sacred  and  painful,  were 
excited  in  us  also,  as  we  reflected  where  we  were;  not  merely  near 
Homer's  reputed  native  island  and  amid  the  ravages  of  Moslem 
violence  and  oppression,  but  a  few  leagues  to  the  east  of  us  were 
the  desolate  sites  of  the  once  favored  seven  churches  of  Asia,  wa- 
tered by  apostolic  tears  and  defended  by  martyrs'  blood.  How 
strikingly  and  literally  has  their  chastisement,  for  their  backslidings, 
as  threatened  in  the  Apocalypse,  been  fulfilled.  Their  candlesticks 
are  removed  out  of  their  places. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  passed  up  by  the  large  island  of  Mytilene. 
The  summits  of  its  mountains  were  covered  with  snow.  Away  in 
the  distant  west,  Mt.  Athos  towered  above  the  horizon,  and  the 
islands  of  Imbros,  Samothracia  and  Tenedos  appeared  to  the  north- 
west. Mt.  Athos,  in  the  scale  of  Greek  superstition,  is  the  most 
sacred  place  in  the  whole  country.  It  is  occupied  by  monks,  who 
have  twenty-two  convents ;  each  convent  has  its  abbot,  with  a  certain 
number  of  monks  and  lay-laborers.  The  total  number  of  residents 
is  said  to  be  about  six  thousand — all  are  males — no  females,  not 
even  female  animals,  being  permitted  to  enter  the  holy  precincts ! 

At  11  o'clock  in  the  evening,  we  reached  the  Straits  of  Darda- 
nelles. Thus  Europe  and  Asia  were  presented  at  one  view,  and 
apparently,  in  the  moon  light,  almost  within  the  call  of  the  voice. 
I  went  on  deck  and  gazed,  scarcely  being  able  to  realize  that  T 
stood  within  a  few  miles  of  the  site  of  ancient  Troy.  It  is  supposed 
to  have  been  situated  at  the  southern  entrance  of  the  Straits,  a  little 


68       SUMMONS  TO  PRATERS — WORSHIP  OF  THE  VIRGIN. 


back  from  the  shore.  But  Ilium  fuit !  Troy  was  !  Not  even  its 
precise  location  can  now  be  determined.  The  Straits  of  Dardanelles 
resemble  an  immense  river,  flowing  majestically  between  two  ele- 
vated and  fertile  hills.  They  are  sixty  miles  long  and  from  four  to 
six  miles  wide.  I  regretted  that  we  did  not  happen  to  enter  them 
by  day,  that  I  might  have  surveyed,  to  better  advantage,  their  hal- 
lowed shores.  I  could  not,  however,  regret  the  fine  south  wind 
that  was  bearing  us  so  rapidly  along  through  those  narrow  waters. 
It  is  perhaps  ten  chances  to  one,  that  vessels  are  not  kept  by  head- 
winds at  their  entrance  for  days,  and  often  for  weeks. 

Dfx.  19.  At  daybreak,  we  arrived  at  an  expansion  in  the  Straits 
around  which  are  several  Turkish  villages  and  castles.  There  we 
were  obliged  to  lie  until  sunrise,  as  no  vessel  is  allowed  to  proceed 
upward  except  during  the  day.  Just  at  the  southern  entrance  of 
this  expansion,  Xerxes  is  said  to  have  thrown  across  his  famous 
bridge.  Tall  minarets  towered  over  each  village  and  castle,  and  as 
the  dawn  advanced,  Muhammedan  priests  announced  from  their 
tops  the  hour  of  prayer.  How  strange  was  that  shrill  summons — 
La  Allah  il  Allah,  v  Muliammed  Rasdol  Allah — There  is  no  God 
but  God,  and  Miihammed  is  his  prophet,  sounded  then  for  the  first 
time  in  my  ears.  But  from  that  day  forward,  for  the  last  eight 
years,  it  has  been  a  sound  far  more  familiar  to  me  than  the  cock- 
crowing  in  the  morning.  The  fields  about  those  villages  were 
clothed  with  beautiful  verdure  and  appeared  fertile;  and  at  a  small 
distance  back,  lofty  mountains  rose,  then  capped  with  snow.  In  the 
afternoon,  we  left  the  Straits  and  entered  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  the 
island  of  that  name  appearing  at  a  distance  ahead. 

Dec.  20.  At  daybreak  we  found  ourselves  gently  moving,  about 
fifteen  miles  below  Constantinople,  and  there  a  dead  calm  kept  us, 
all  that  day.  A  Greek  who  spoke  a  little  English,  to  while  away 
the  long  hours,  seemed  inclined  to  religious  discussion.  He  in- 
quired of  me  whether  we  worship  the  virgin  Mary.  I  told  him  that 
1  worshipped  God  only.  He  replied,  "  but  toe  worship  the  virgin," 
and  proceeded  to  demonstrate  the  reasonableness  of  the  practice. 
"Suppose,"  said  he,  "that  you  were  a  king  and  I  a  subject;  if  I 
wanted  a  favor,  I  should  not  go  directly  to  i/ou,  but  to  some  friend 
who  was  your  faeorite,  and  who  would  intercede  for  me;  and  just 
so  we  go  to  Mary  and  the  other  saints  and  worship  them,  that  they 
may  thus  be  induced  to  intreat  God  in  our  favor."  "  But  you  7voulcl 
come  directly  to  the  king,  in  the  case  supposed,"  said  I,  "  if  the 
way  were  opened  to  you  and  especially  if  you  were  even  invited  by 
him  to  come ;  and  Christ  has  promised  in  the  Scriptures  to  be  an 
advocate — and  no  one  can  doubt  his  being  a  prevalent  one — with 
the  Father,  for  all  who  will  come  humbly  and  penitently  to  him  ; 
and  the  apostle  accordingly  exhorts  believers  to  come  boldly  right 
to  the  throne  of  mercy  that  they  may  find  grace  to  help  in  time  of 
need."  He  assented  to  the  truth  of  what  I  said,  but  seemed  un- 
willing to  admit  the  impiety  of  paying  adoration  to  departed  mortals. 


ARRIVAL  AT  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


69 


How  often  have  I  since  heard  this  snme  hackneyed  simile,  for  the 
want  of  solid  argument,  urged  in  support  of  saint-worship,  by  per- 
sons belonging  to  the  different  oriental  churches. 

Dec.  21.  About  1  o'clock  in  the  morning,  being  awaked  by  the 
noise  of  casting  anchor  on  deck,  we  dressed  and  went  out  and  found 
ourselves  in  the  harbor  of  Constantinople.  We  regretted  that  we 
had  not  come  in  by  day,  as  the  view  to  the  approaching  traveller  is 
said  to  be  indescribably  grand  and  beautiful,  on  the  first  sight,  the 
loss  of  which  subsequent  familiarity  can  never  fully  redeem.  As 
soon  as  it  was  light  we  rose  and  went  on  deck,  and  were  absolutely 
astonished  at  the  splendors  by  which  we  were  surrounded.  An  im- 
mense city  on  every  hand  !  Lofty  towers — magnificent  inosks  with 
their  peering  minarets — and  gilded  palaces  stretched  away  in 
endless  succession.  Seraglio  Point — the  perfection  of  beauty — 'an 
earthly  paradise — lay  smiling  before  us  challenging  our  first  gaze  as 
if  conscious  of  the  matchless  loveliness  of  its  enchanting  bowers. 
The  spacious  harbor — the  famous  Golden  Horn — seemed  half  filled 
with  vessels  of  all  sizes,  kinds  and  colors,  whose  spars  and  rigging 
formed  a  continuous  and  almost  interminable  forest.  And  to  give 
to  the  whole  the  fullest  effect,  a  glorious  sunrise  poured  an  unwont- 
ed radiance  over  one  of  the  finest  of  mornings.  We  stood  and 
gazed  in  mute  astonishment  till  our  eyes  were  tired,  but  not  sated, 
with  the  vast,  new,  strange  and  almost  fairy  scene. 

About  8  o'clock,  I  went  on  shore  with  the  captain.  I  was  una- 
ble to  make  myself  understood  by  an  individual  of  the  thronging 
multitudes  around  me.  I  therefore  mutely  followed  the  captain. 
He  soon  met  with  an  acquaintance  who  invited  us  to  his  counting- 
house.  I  was  interested  to  observe  their  cordial  style  of  mutual 
salutation — a  hearty  kiss,  which  is  common  among  all  orientals  after 
even  a  short  separation.  We  were  first  offered  pipes  which  we 
both  declined,  our  captain  presenting  the  rare  anomaly  of  a  Greek 
who  does  not  smoke.  Next  came  coffee,  in  cups  twice  as  large  as 
a  thimble,  without  sugar  and  so  strong  as  to  be  quite  bitter.  The 
captain  soon  transferred  me  to  other  hands — and  they  again  to 
others;  and  I  was  thus  shifted  from  one  to  another,  I  knew  not 
whom,  and  led  about  I  knew  not  Avhither,  till  at  length  a  Greek 
beckoned  me  to  follow  him.  I  began  to  feel  like  a  stranger  in  a 
strange  land.  I,  however,  followed  him;  and  he  soon  knocked  at 
a  door  which  was  opened,  and  what  was  my  relief  to  be  grasped  by 
the  hand  and  welcomed  by  the  voice  of  an  American,  who  told  me 
that  he  was  Mr.  Goodcll.  He  and  Mr.  Dwight  returned  with  me 
immediately  to  our  vessel  to  conduct  Mrs.  Perkins,  who  had  long 
been  wailing  the  result  of  my  adventure,  to  our  very  grateful  tem- 
porary resting-place  among  beloved  missionary  brethren,  which  we 
reached  just  three  months  from  the  day  we  embarked  at  Boston. 


70 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

CONSTANTINOPLE,  AND  VOYAGE  THENCE  TO  TREBIZOND. 

A  particular  description  of  Constantinople  would  require  a  vol- 
ume. I  shall  not  attempt  even  a  general  one.  Such  descriptions 
are  not  wanting;  and  as  a  minute  account  of  the  place  formed  no 
part  of  ray  object  in  visiting  it,  nor  enters  into  the  purpose  of  this 
work,  though  I  saw  its  most  interesting  objects,  I  shall  tax  the  rea- 
der with  no  farther  notices  of  our  stay  there  except  to  quote  a  few 
of  the  very  brief  records  of  passing  incidents  which  I  made  at  the 
time,  and  then  hasten  along  toward  the  still  distant  country  of  our 
destination.  I  may  remark  in  general,  however,  in  this  connection, 
that  the  charm  of  the  admiring  traveller,  which  so  transports  him 
on  the  first  view,  is  soon  broken  when  he  lands,  especially,  if  it  be 
in  the  suburb  of  Galata,  through  which  Europeans  usually  pass  on 
their  way  to  Pera,  the  Frank  quarter.  The  exterior  of  the  whole 
city  greatly  belies  its  real  character.  The  houses  are  generally 
frail,  miserable  fabrics  built  of  wood,  and  the  streets  are  more  nar- 
row, crooked  and  filthy  than  could  well  be  conceived  to  exist  in  con- 
nection with  the  fair,  enchanting  scenes  spread  out  to  the  eye  of 
the  observer  as  he  enters  the  harbor.  To  these  general  remarks, 
however,  we  should  make  some  exceptions,  particularly  in  regard  to 
public  buildings.  Many  of  the  mosks  are  vast  and  magnificent  struc- 
tures, grand  and  beautiful  in  their  proportions  and  exceedingly  dur- 
able in  their  materials  and  construction.  Think  of  the  celebrated 
St.  Sophia,  the  ancient  christian  church,  coming  down  the  many 
long  centuries  of  its  original  hallowed  use  and  its  subsequent  desecra- 
tion to  the  worship  of  the  False  Prophet,  still  in  a  state  of  such  un- 
impaired preservation  !  And  some  of  the  other  niosks  are  but  little 
inferior  to  it.  Several  of  the  bazars,  the  Egyptian  in  particular, 
are  lofty  arched  ranges,  built  of  brick  and  lime,  and  in  a  style  to 
stand  for  ages.  The  great  aqueduct  is  still  in  use  and  in  a  state  of 
good  repair.  Some  of  the  barracks  and  other  edifices  devoted  to 
the  department  of  the  army  and  navy  are  very  spacious  and  impos- 
ing, and  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  for  which  they  are  intended. 
And  last,  though  not  least,  several  of  the  palaces  of  the  Sultan  and 
other  members  of  the  imperial  family  are  tasteful  and  finely  con- 
structed. This  is  particularly  true  of  the  new  palace  reared  by  the 
late  Sultan, — completed  but  just  before  his  death, — and  now  occu- 
pied by  his  son  and  successor  to  the  throne.  This  quite  eclipses  all 
its  predecessors  in  elegance  and  symmetry,  as  well  as  in  its  dazzling 
splendors  of"  eastern  gold."  But,  not  to  multiply  the  exceptions 
which  might  be  somewhat  farther  extended,  the  ma.ss  of  the  shops 


AN  ARMENIAN  KEFOKMER. 


71 


and  private  dwellings,  throughout  the  great  Osmanly  capital,  are 
miserable  structures,  which,  however,  have  often,  at  even  a  near 
view,  a  very  specious  external  appearance. 

We  remained  at  Constantinople  about  five  months.  It  was  then 
the  outpost  of  the  mission  stations  occupied  by  the  American  Board 
of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions  in  that  direction.  Our  ob- 
ject in  this  delay  was  to  acquire  some  knowledge  of  the  Turkish 
language  to  facilitate  our  travelling  beyond, — and  to  wait  for  the 
warm  part  of  the  year  before  attennpting  to  cross  the  lofty  mountains 
on  our  route,  which  are  nearly  impassible  in  winter.  We  more- 
over desired,  rather  than  expected,  that  a  medical  companion  might 
join  us  before  we  proceeded  to  Persia.  We  soon  commenced  the 
study  of  Turkish  and  pursued  it  as  our  business,  during  our  stay 
at  Constantinople,  enjoying  an  excellent  home  in  the  family  of  Mr. 
Goodell  who  then  resided  in  the  suburb  of  Gal ata,  and  pleasant 
American  society  in  the  small  circle  of  our  missionaries,  and  of 
commodore  Porter,  our  charge  d'affaires,  Mrs.  Brown,  his  sister, 
and  several  gentlemen  attached  to  the  legation. 

Dec.  30.  In  company  with  Messrs.  Goodell  and  Dwight,  I  cross- 
ed the  harbor  and  visited  the  city  of  Constantinople.  We  called  on 
Peshdamaljan,  who  was  at  the  head  of  the  Armenian  college.  He 
was  an  intelligent,  and  very  liberal  man,  and  was  doing  for  the  Ar- 
menians what  Prof  Bambas  has  done  for  the  Greeks,  in  the  line  of 
education.  Though  a  layman,  he  was  said  to  exert  more  influence 
over  the  Armenian  clergy,  than  any  ecclesiastic,  and  this  influence 
was  most  decidedly  in  favor  of  the  diffusion  of  knowledge  and  the 
study  of  the  Holy  Scriptures.  Indeed,  no  Armenian  at  Constanti- 
nople was  permitted  at  that  time,  to  take  priest's  orders,  unless  he 
had  been  a  considerable  period  under  his  instruction.  Five  theo- 
locrical  students  were  recitingr  when  we  entered  the  room ;  and  on 
this  occasion  he  proposed  to  the  missionaries  to  have  the  Bible  print- 
ed in  the  vernacular  tongue,  in  successive  volumes,  each  consisting 
of  a  single  book.  Our  interview  with  him  was  a  very  pleasant  one. 
This  laborious,  excellent  man  has  since  died.  He  had  accomplish- 
ed a  great  work  for  the  reformation  of  his  countrymen.  Many  of 
the  evangelical  Armenians  who  have  since  come  under  the  influence 
of  our  missionaries  and  taken  iheir  stand  as  witnesses  and  advo- 
cates for  the  truth,  refer  their  earliest  religious  impressions  to  the 
instructions  which  they  received  from  Peshdamaljan.  He  emerged 
alone  from  the  deep  darkness  of  the  degraded  Armenian  church, 
and  shone  as  a  resplendent  luminary,  till  a  large  cluster,  each  bright- 
er than  himself,  rose  around  him  and  more  than  filled  his  place ; 
and  he,  as  we  trust,  was  then  transferred  to  a  higher  orbit.  He 
may  perhaps  not  inappropriately  be  styled  the  father  of  the  reforma- 
tion now  in  progress  among  the  Armenians,  inasmuch  as  he  seems 
to  have  been  the  instrument  of  commencing  it;  though  his  was  a 
very  still  and  retiring  course — furnishing  a  good  example  of  the 
class  whose 


72 


A  MONTHLY  CONCERT. 


"  Silent  prajers  and  labors  Heaven  employs 
To  do  the  ^ood  while  others  make  the  noise." 

Jan.  2.  We  dined  with  commodore  Porter.  He  is  a  gentleniati 
of  much  simplicity  of  manners  and  character,  was  very  kind  in  his 
attentions  to  the  missionaries;  and  he  appeared  to  represent  quite 
well  the  manly,  unostentatious  vigor  of  our  republican  government. 

Jan.  6.  To-day  occurred  the  annual  concert  of  prayer  for  the 
conversion  of  the  world.  At  12  o'clock,  we  held  a  meeting  at  Mr. 
Dwight's,  first  an  hour  in  Turkish,  and  afterward  an  hour  in  Eng- 
lish. A  more  interesting  season  I  have  seldom  enjoyed.  There 
were  present  four  Armenians,  three  Greeks,  an  English  sea-captain 
and  the  missionaries.  One  of  the  Greeks,  who  speaks  English,  and 
for  his  evangelical  artlessness  of  character  and  manners,  may  be 
called  a  Nathaniel,  gave  some  account  of  the  Sandwich  Island  Mis- 
sion. The  natives  present  appeared  highly  delighted  with  the  nar- 
ration. The  same  Greek  then  concluded  that  part  of  the  meeting 
with  a  prayer  in  Turkish.  But  the  circumstance  that  gave  the 
deepest  interest  to  the  occasion,  was  the  case  of  two  of  the  Ar- 
menians, whose  names  have  since  become  familiar  to  the  friends  of 
missions  in  America.  I  refer  to  Hohannes  and  Senacherim.  Ho- 
hannes  had  first,  for  some  time,  been  groping  in  darkness  which  he 
deeply  felt,  but  from  which  he  knew  not  where  to  look  for  one  to 
guide  him.  At  length  he  met  with  Senacherim,  and  on  inciden- 
tally intimating  his  feelings  to  him,  was  surprised  and  delighted  to 
find  him  in  a  state  of  mind  very  similar  to  his  own.  From  that 
day  forward,  they  were  accustomed  to  meet  together,  in  retired 
places,  for  prayer  and  conversation,  still  seeking  for  spiritual  guides. 
After  some  time,  they  heard  of  the  American  missionaries,  and 
tremblingly  searched  them  out,  and  to  their  unspeakable  joy  found 
in  them  just  the  assistance  for  which  they  had  so  long  sought  and 
prayed.  To-day,  they  opened  their  hearts  in  a  most  artless  and 
affecting  manner,  and  detailed  these  circumstances  to  the  mission- 
aries, not  seeming  themselves  to  imagine  that  there  was  anything  of 
special  interest  in  their  case.  Their  mutual  attachment  had  become 
very  peculiar,  like  that  which  existed  between  David  and  Jonathan. 
They  had  formally  pledged  to  each  other  all  the  assistance  in  their 
power,  in  the  trials  and  persecutions  which  they  apprehended  they 
might  be  called  to  suffer  from  their  degraded,  bigotted  countrymen, 
in  seeking  to  know  and  follow  the  truth.  Of  these  young  men,  I 
noted  in  my  Journal  of  that  date,  that  they  seemed  designed  by 
Providence  to  become  champions  in  the  work  of  Armenian  refor- 
mation. They  have  since  verified  this  hope, — Hohannes  in  his 
abundant  labor  and  patience  at  Constantinople,  and  during  his  exile 
for  the  name  of  Christ  to  Caesarea,  where  also  a  work  of  revival 
commenced  under  his  influence;  and  Senacherim  in  his  faithful 
labors  at  home  in  the  face  of  reproach  and  persecution  for  several 
years,  till  his  pious  ardor  brought  him  to  the  United  States  for  an 
education,  that  he  might  be  qualified  for  still  greater  usefulness 


WEALTH  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


73 


among  his  countrymen.  I  was  not  a  little  gratified,  on  my  return 
to  Constantinople,  to  observe  in  Hohannes  his  former  attachment 
to  Senacherim  still  existing  in  all  its  early  vigor,  as  a  token  of 
which  he  .sent  to  his  beloved  brother  in  the  faith  and  patience  of  the 
gospel,  a  few  small  boxes  of  sweetmeats,  and  a  large  packet  of  fra- 
ternal epistles.  These  interesting  young  men  were  the  first  fruits 
of  the  mission  of  the  American  Board  at  Constantinople,  that  have 
since  expanded  and  ripened  into  the  rich  and  precious  harvest  which 
the  missionaries  are  now  gathering  in  that  very  promising  field. 

Jan.  13.  In  company  with  Mr.  Paspati,  a  Greek  gentleman 
who  was  educated  at  Amherst  college,  and  was  now  in  the  employ 
of  our  missionaries,  I  visited  Constantinople.  The  wealth  displayed 
in  the  vast  bazars  appeared  absolutely  inconceivable,  and  fully  to 
warrant  the  ideas  and  the  epithets  early  familiar  to  my  mind  of  the 
"  riches  of  the  East."  We  ascended  the  lofty  Seraskier's  tower  by 
a  flight  of  (I  think)  187  steps.  It  completely  overlooks  the  whole 
city — the  surrounding  country  and  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  presenting 
at  one  view  a  panorama  of  beauty,  grandeur  and  magnificence  that 
utterly  defies  description.  We  visited  the  celebrated  Hippodrome 
(horse-race  ground,)  which  is  a  great  oblong  square.  Upon  it 
stands  the  vast  and  lofty  obelisk  of  Egyptian  granite,  mounted  on  a 
huge  pedestal.  It  was  transported  from  Thebes  to  Constantinople. 
There  must  have  been  "giants  in  those  days"  to  import  and  raise 
upright  so  vast  a  block  of  stone,  akin  to  the  earlier  Anakims  who 
could  quarry,  polish  and  pile  to  the  skies  the  imperishable  mon- 
uments of  Egyptian  greatness.  There,  too,  stands  the  spiral  bra- 
zen pillar  on  which  the  tripod  of  the  oracle  of  Delphi  was  placed. 
Where  now,  thought  I,  are  the  refined,  idolatrous  Greeks  who  con- 
structed this  pillar  and  consulted  its  oracle  ?  Where  was  the  gen- 
eration that  imported  it  to  adorn  the  illustrious  Hippodrome? 
Where  were  the  proud  and  mighty  emperors  that  had  here  graced 
the  sports  with  the  majesty  of  their  presence  7  And  where  was  the 
eloquent  Chrysostom — the  matchless  christian  orator — who  had  so 
often  charmed  and  melted  congregated  thousands,  by  the  richer 
than  golden  streams  that  flowed  so  attractively  from  his  prolific 
tongue,  on  the  public  square  which  I  was  then  privileged  to  tread  ? 
Alas,  the  men,  so  much  feebler  than  the  frail  work  of  their  hands, 
had  all  long  ago  mingled  their  dust  with  the  clods  of  the  valley,  and 
such  is  man  in  his  mightiest  estate. 

On  our  way  home,  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet  the  Sultan 
with  a  large  retinue ;  and  the  Seraskier  pasha  at  the  head  of  a  regi- 
ment. The  captain  admiral,  too,  as  we  crossed  the  harbor,  passed 
in  his  large  splendid  cdik  very  near  us.  The  Sijltan  was  a  portly, 
noble  looking  man,  with  a  countenance  a  little  the  worse  for  his 
wine-drinking,  an  indulgence  into  which  he  had  fallen  in  his  zeal 
for  European  improvements.  In  the  rapid  influx  of  civilization  in^ 
to  Turkey  of  which  this  Siiltan  was  so  great  a  champion,  it  is  not 
strange,  though  so  much  to  be  regretted,  that  the  tide  of  western 

10 


74 


LYCEUM  PREVALENCE  OF  FIRES. 


tices  should  roll  in  with  it  and  neutralize  its  benefits.  The  troops 
that  we  met  were  in  their  then  new  uniform  of  blue  cloth  pantaloons 
and  sailors'  coats,  both  gaudily  trimmed  with  red. 

Jan.  16.  I  attended  the  funeral  of  one  of  the  principal  Arme- 
nians, who  was  at  the  head  of  the  Turkish  mint.  The  deceased 
was  very  rich.  His  funeral  was  attended  by  thousands  who  made 
a  great  ostentation  of  grief  which,  however,  was  too  evidently  put 
on  for  the  occasion.  Scores  of  ecclesiastics,  witli  the  patriarch  at 
their  head,  bearing  candles,  swords,  crosses  and  censers  of  incense, 
and  chanting  hymns  as  they  moved  along,  walked  in  the  procession. 
Tears  flowed  profusely,  accompanied  by  audible  sobs ;  but  Orien- 
tals can  weep  without  emotion.  The  deceased,  however,  was  uni- 
versally venerated  among  the  Armenians ;  for  he  had  loved  their 
nation  and  built  them  synagogues.  They  very  pertinently  denomi- 
nated him,  their  Mordecai. 

In  the  evening,  we  attended  the  first  meeting  of  our  American 
Lyceum  at  commodore  Porter's.  The  commodore  was  sick  in  bed, 
and  his  sister,  Mrs.  Brown,  read  his  lecture  which  was  quite  inter- 
esting. His  subject  wag  astronomy.  The  arrangement  was,  that 
he,  the  young  gentlemen  attached  to  his  legation,  and  the  mission- 
aries should  lecture  weekly,  in  rotation.  We  were  very  happy  to 
engage  in  such  an  exercise,  as  the  task  of  preparation  so  seldom  re- 
curred to  each  individual  as  to  impose  only  a  light  tax  of  time  and 
labor;  it  was  a  pleasant  and  profitable  method  of  spending  a  social 
hour  ;  and  it  might  prove  a  source  of  important  advantage  to  a 
number  of  American  young  men,  who,  in  that  distant  city,  were 
deprived  of  most  of  the  means  of  intellectual  as  well  as  moral  im- 
provement enjoyed  by  their  countrymen  at  home. 

Jan.  26.  This  evening,  a  fire  occurred  very  near  us  and  just  in 
the  direction  greatly  to  endanger  our  own  dwelling.  The  wind, 
for  a  long  time,  enveloped  Mr,  Goodell's  house  in  a  shower  of  sparks 
and  ashes, like  snow  in  a  winter  storm.  We  put  some  of  our  goodg 
in  moveable  order,  intending  to  have  porters  carry  them  away, 
should  our  house  take  fire,  and  placed  others — my  library  among  the 
test — in  a  fire-proof  magazine  under  the  house.  This  magazine 
happened  to  have  water  in  it,  into  which  some  of  ray  valuable  books 
fell  and  were  seriously  injured.  We  had  great  cause  for  gratitude, 
however,  that  we  were  not  driven  houseless  into  the  streets.  Prov- 
identially, the  dwelling  of  the  chief  physician  of  the  Sultan  stood 
directly  between  ours  and  the  fire.  Several  companies  of  the  troops 
were  ordered  to  save  that  house,  under  penalty  of  a  heavy  punish- 
ment in  case  of  failure.  They  made  vigorous  efforts,  arrested  the 
progress  of  the  fire  and  saved  the  physician's  house,  and  in  doing 
this,  shielded  ours  from  the  threatened  destruction.  Fires  are  the 
great  scourge  of  Constantinople.  The  almost  constant  prevalence 
of  the  plague  was  formerly  a  calamity  of  even  greater  magnitude. 
This  is  now  happily  excluded  by  a  vigorous  system  of  quarantine, 
regulated  principally  by  foreigners.    The  frequency  and  extent  of 


BUYUK  DEREH  FIRES. 


75 


the  fires  are  much  owing  to  the  very  frail  and  combustible  character 
of  the  houses.  The  miserable,  inefficient  fire-organization  of  the 
city,  moreover,  opposes  a  very  feeble  barrier  to  the  progress  of  a  con- 
flagration. 

Jan.  28.  I  took  a  boat  with  Messrs.  Dwight,  Oscauyau  (an  Ar- 
menian) and  Panyotes  (a  Greek)  in  the  employ  of  the  missionaries, 
and  went  up  the  Bosphorus  to  Buyuk  Dereh — a  village  about  fif- 
teen miles  above  the  city.  The  beauty  of  the  scenery  on  the  shores 
of  these  straits  is  perhaps  unequalled  in  the  world.  The  villages 
are  almost  contiguous,  and  hang  delightfully  and  conveniently  on 
the  slopes  of  either  shore.  The  shrubbery  was  green  even  at  this 
dreary  season,  and  the  hills  and  ravines  above  the  villages,  with  here 
and  there  a  beautiful  kiosk — summer  palace — present  a  bold  back- 
ground and  give  fine  effect  to  the  lovely  scenes  below.  We  passed, 
1  know  not  how  many,  palaces  of  the  Sultan — perhaps  as  many  as 
he  had  wives.  Buyuk  Dereh  is  pleasantly  situated  at  a  bend  in  the 
straits,  and  is  the  summer  residence  of  several  of  the  European  am- 
bassadors. It  was  there  that  commodore  Porter  resided,  when  he  so 
hospitably  took  Mr.  Goodell  and  family  into  his  house,  at  the  time 
they  were  driven  shelterless  abroad  by  the  great  fire  m  Pera, 
from  which  they  had  a  hair-breadth  escape  with  their  lives. 

Feb.  16.  About  midnight,  we  were  surprised  by  another  fire. 
It  was  at  Top  hana,  some  distance  from  us,  but  the  wind  was 
strong,  and  in  a  direction  to  bring  it  directly  to  our  dwelling.  Mr. 
Goodell,  Mrs.  Perkins  and  myself  went  to  the  scene.  Three  or  four 
houses  only  had  taken  fire  when  we  reached  the  spot;  but  in  these 
it  raged  most  terribly.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  distressing  nature 
of  the  scenes  presented.  Families  driven  houseless  into  the  streets 
in  a  stormy  winter  night,  and  mothers,  in  one  or  two  instances, 
crying  out  in  agony  that  their  children  were  devoured  in  the  flames. 
The  fire  rapidly  advanced,  the  flames  leaping  from  house  to  house, 
and  sparks  and  light  pieces  of  boards  on  fire  at  length  fell  in  heavy 
showers  around  our  dwelling.  The  old  Galata  ditch  and  wail 
which  lay  between  us  and  the  course  of  the  conflagration  proved 
our  only  succor,  and  these  for  some  time  promised  a  very  doubtful 
security.  Thousands  on  thousands  collected  and  gazed  upon  the 
appalling  spectacle.  The  sober  Turks,  in  good  consistency  with 
their  fatalist  doctrines,  merely  stroked  down  their  long  beards  and 
repeated  their  pious  ejaculations — God  is  great — there  is  no  God 
hut  God,  and  Muhammed  is  his  prophet — What  is  to  be  must  be — 
Wonderful/ — Let  the  will  of  God  be  done,  etc. — No  one,  who 
has  not  witnessed  similar  scenes  in  Constantinople,  can  conceive 
the  inefficiency  of  the  firemen  on  such  occasions.  Engineers  often 
stand  and  keep  their  men  from  work,  stipulating  with  the  owners 
of  particular  houses,  for  a  given  sum,  before  they  will  lift  a  hand  to 
render  assistance.  The  only  alternative  for  the  suffering  owners 
is  to  stand  still  and  see  their  dwellings  burn  down,  or  pay  enormous 
sums  to  the  mercenary  harpies  for  their  tardy  and  perhaps  ineffec- 
tual efforts  to  save  them. 


76 


TVEDDING  DEVOTIONS  OF  THE  SULTAN. 


This  fire  continued  with  terrible  destruction  until  it  reached  the 
vacant  space  made  by  a  former  great  fire  and  had  in  fact  no  niore 
to  burn.  Nothing  could  surpass  the  awful  sublimity  of  these  scenes 
of  devastation,  especially  in  that  dark  and  stormy  night.  With 
some  of  the  missionaries  1  lingered  about  it  till  near  5  o'clock,  when 
it  began  to  subside.  I  then  retired  heartily  weary  of  a  residence  in 
Constantinople. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  following  day,  I  went  again  with  Mr. 
Goodell  to  the  scene  of  the  fire.  Multitudes  were  among  the  smok- 
ing ruins,  picking  out  from  the  ashes  small  incombustible  articles. 
On  inquiry,  we  found  that  several  women,  as  veell  as  children,  had 
been  consumed.  We  inquired  of  some  Turks  who  sat  near  us 
digging  out  earthen  pipe-howls  of  the  value  of  five  paras — a  half  cent 
each — whether  the  bones  of  those  who  perished,  had  been  found  : 
and  with  an  impatient  shrug  of  the  shoulders  and  shake  of  the  head, 
they  replied,  "  How  do  we  know  1" — as  much  as  to  say,  '  don't  hin- 
der us  with  such  unimportant  questions' — and  went  on  with  their 
work,  digging  out  pipe-bowls !  So  little  is  human  life  valued,  in  the 
Turkish  capital. 

That  I  may  not  trouble  the  reader  with  further  notices  oijires  at 
Constantinople,  I  will  simply  add,  that  they  occurred  so  frequently 
during  our  stay  there,  that  I  find  among  my  notes  the  record  of  six, 
in  one  case,  during  a  single  week — which,  however,  would  not  per- 
haps be  very  formidable  or  strange  in  so  large  a  city  had  there  been 
efficient  fire  organizations,  early  to  arrest  their  progress.  As  it  was, 
I  soon  felt  more  timorous  in  going  to  sleep  at  night,  under  appre- 
hension of  danger  from  fire,  than  I  had  ever  felt,  in  terrible  storms 
at  sea,  however  fearfully  rocked  and  threatened  by  the  angry  billows 
of  the  ocean. 

Ftb.  2-5.  Mr.  Schauffler  was  married  to  Miss  Mary  Reynolds. 
The  wedding  was  attended  at  commodore  Porter's.  Mr.  Goodell 
performed  the  ceremony.  Nearly  all  the  guests  were  Americans, 
and  I  could  not  help  feeling  that  there  was  a  moral  sublimity  in  the 
scene  presented  ;  an  American  wedding — and  a  christian  wedding 
in  the  heart  of  the  capital  of  the  Ottoman  empire. 

Fbh.  28.  We  went  to  see  the  Sultan  enter  a  mosk  to  perform 
his  devotions.  His  approach  to  the  mosk  on  Fridays,  is  the  occa- 
sion usually  embraced  by  foreigners  to  secure  an  advantageous  gaze 
on  his  august  person.  To-day,  he  came  on  horseback.  He  rode 
of  course  a  very  fine  horse,  and  about  a  dozen  others  of  a  like  de- 
scription, all  richly  and  splendidly  caparisoned,  were  led  in  file  be- 
fore him.  They  had  previously  enjoyed  the  exalted  honor  of  bear- 
ing his  imperial  majesty,  each  a  year;  that  was  the  longest  period 
which  it  was  considered  proper  for  him  to  condescend  to  ride  on  one 
horse.  Not  wishing,  however,  to  cashier  in  disgrace  the  noble  ani- 
mals that  had  been  raised  to  the  high  dignity  of  carrying  the  Head 
of  the  Islam  faith  upon  their  backs,  he  allowed  them,  ever  after,  to 
be  led  in  state  before  him,  on  public  occasions. 


BOATS  TURKISH  SCHOOLS. 


77 


In  other  instances,  I  saw  the  Sultan  approach  different  mosks  in 
his  pleasure  boat ;  and  in  that  case  the  event  was  announced  and 
celebrated  by  a  long  and  loud  roar  of  cannon  from  his  ships  in  the 
harbor.  His  boat  was  one  of  the  most  splendid  and  beautiful  ob- 
jects that  I  saw  at  the  capital.  It  must  have  been  seventy  feet,  and 
perhaps  much  more,  in  length,  and  was  rowed  by  twenty  or  thirty 
men.  It  was  of  the  same  exquisitely  graceful  form  of  all  the  Turk- 
ish caiks  (boats),  at  Constantinople,  and  was  gilded  and  ornamen- 
ted in  the  richest  style  of  oriental  magnificence.  The  caiks,  by  the 
way,  are  among  the  earliest  and  most  striking  novelties  that  arrest 
the  eye  of  a  traveller  on  his  arrival  at  Constantinople.  They  are 
very  numerous,  and  are  constantly  darting  in  all  directions  across 
the  harbor  up  and  down  the  Bosphorus  and  on  the  Marmora.  They 
are  very  light  and  frail  in  their  construction, — being  broadest  about 
two  thirds  of  the  way  toward  the  stern,  the  sides  swelling  and  deli- 
cately curving  from  the  bottom  to  the  top,  and  the  extremities  grad- 
ually rising  till  they  terminate  in  a  sharp  point.  They  are  very  easi- 
ly upset,  but  answer  a  good  purpose  on  the  quiet  waters  for  which 
they  are  intended.  The  oars  are  so  large  near  the  hand  of  the  row- 
er, as  just  to  balance  the  blade  across  the  side  of  the  boat.  The 
athletic  boatmen,  with  their  thin  dress, — their  light  silk  shirts,  the 
sleeves  extending  only  down  to  the  elbow — are  extremely  easy  and 
graceful  in  their  motions;  and  the  speed  with  which  they  skim  the 
sai;face,  scarcely  causing  a  ripple,  is  astonishingly  rapid. 

I  visited  the  Turkish  schools  in  some  of  the  barr,acks,  and  was 
deeply  interested  in  them.  There  were  four  hundred  and  fifty 
young  men  in  those  that  we  first  visited.  Three  of  their  largest 
halls  were  converted  into  school-rooms,  fitted  up  with  benches, 
sand-boxes — cards  hanging  upon  the  walls — black-boards  and  all 
the  other  apparatus  of  a  Lancasterian  establishment.  All  the  sol- 
diers there  enjoyed  the  privileges  of  education.  A  part  of  them — 
perhaps  one  third — read  and  studied  one  part  of  the  day ;  these 
then  repaired  to  their  tactics,  and  another  division  entered  the 
school-room.  The  Turks  borrowed  the  idea  of  these  interesting 
schools  for  their  troops  from  missionary  schools  among  the  Greeks; 
and  indeed  those  Turkish  schools  were  aided  and  influenced  more 
or  less  by  our  missionaries,  to  whom  the  officers  appeared  to  look 
up  as  to  guides  and  patrons.  They  were  very  interesting  signs  of 
the  times,  evincing  the  commencement  of  a  new  order  of  things 
among  the  Muhammedans  of  Turkey. 

April  19.  In  company  with  Messrs.  D wight  and  Johnston,  and 
their  ladies,  we  crossed  the  Bosphorus  and  visited  Scutari  and  Ca- 
diqua.  The  latter  is  the  ancient  Chalcedon,  situated  just  opposite 
Constantinople  on  the  northern  shore  of  the  Marmora.  It  is  now 
only  a  large  village.  Scutari  is  the  Asiatic  suburb  of  Constantinople, 
situated  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  mouth  of  the  Bosphorus,  di- 
rectly in  front  of  the  harbor.  It  is  the  ancient  Chrysopolis,  {city 
of  gold).    Its  streets  are  broader  and  more  regular  than  are  found 


78 


SCUTARI  MUHAMMEDAN  FABLE. 


in  any  other  part  of  the  city  which  I  have  visited ;  there  are  the 
Sultan's  largest  and  finest  barracks.  We  passed  through  a  part  of 
the  celebrated  burying-ground  back  of  Scutari.  It  is  several  miles 
in  extent ;  the  graves  are  as  thickly  crowded  together  as  possible, 
and  the  ashes  of  many  individuals  are  doubtless  deposited  upon 
each  other.  Lofty  cypresses  so  densely  stud  this  whole  vast  ceme- 
tery as  to  exclude  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  to  cloud  it  with  a  deep 
dark  shade.  What  a  Golgotha  is  there  presented,  and  what  an 
affecting  spectacle  of  ephemeral  man.  Verily, 

"  He  walks  forth  the  lord  of  the  earth  to-4ay, 
To-morrow  beholds  him  part  of  its  clay." 

For  the  first  time,  our  feet  now  pressed  the  soil  of  Asia ;  and  the 
incident  brought  vividly  to  mind  tliat  very  soon,  we  were  to  pene- 
trate the  heart  of  that  continent,  never  again,  probably,  to  set  our 
eyes  upon  Europe  or  America. 

April  22.  It  being  the  great  Milhammedan  Beiram  (festival), 
we  made  out  a  party,  and  took  a  spring  ramble  up  the  Busphorus. 
We  again  visited  the  village  of  Buyuk  Dereh,  and  then  crossed  the 
straits  and  ascended  the  famous  Giant's  mountain,  on  the  opposite 
shore.  Buyuk  Dereh  (Great  Valley)  derives  its  name  from  its  lo- 
cation. In  the  extensive  valley  back,  of  the  village,  the  Crusaders 
are  said  to  have  encamped.  We  were  pointed  to  the  identical  tree 
— a  button  wood  several  yards  in  circumference — under  the  shade 
of  which  Godfrey  is  understood  to  have  pitched  his  tent.  Upon 
Giant's  mountain  are  said  to  be  deposited  the  remains  of  a  fabled 
giant — the  Muhammed  Joshua.  The  tomb  of  his  head  is  fifty-eight 
feet  long.  His  history  is  written  on  the  walls  of  the  mosk  attached  to 
his  tomb.  There,  as  tlie  fable  runs,  he  was  accustomed  to  sit  and 
reach  his  feet  down  and  wash  them  in  the  Bosphorus  every  night ;  and 
sometimes,  as  matters  of  recreation,  to  place  one  foot  on  each  shore 
and  allow  vessels  to  pass  under  him.  He  is  said  to  have  fought  against 
the  Greeks  who  prevailed  until  the  sun  went  down,  when  the  giant, 
by  the  aid  of  that  luminary's  resuming  his  place  in  the  heavens, 
gained  a  most  triumphant  victory.  On  the  twigs  of  the  shrubbery 
which  adorns  his  tomb,  small  rags  are  tied  in  immense  numbers,  as 
tokens  of  votive  pledges.  This  puerile  fable  of  Joshua  very  well 
illustrates  the  disgusting,  childish  versions  with  which  Muhamme- 
dan  traditions  clothe  many  of  the  events  recorded  in  the  Holy 
Scriptures.  The  view  from  the  summit  of  Giant's  mountain  is 
grand  and  romantic  beyond  description.  The  Black  Sea  heaves 
up  an  ocean  boundary  on  the  north;  forests,  fields  and  verdant  vil- 
lages spread  out  a  delightful  landscape  on  the  east;  the  Bosphorus 
with  its  silvery  current  and  beautiful  villages  along  the  shores  de- 
light the  eye  on  the  south  and  west;  while  the  back  ground  in  the 
latter  directions  is  filled  up,  on  the  west  by  distant  hills  and  dales, 
and  on  the  south  by  a  dim  view  of  the  great  city  and  the  more  dis- 
tant blue  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 


SIK  J.  CAMPBELL  ABBAS  MEERZA. 


79 


During  our  stay  at  Constantinople,  we  naturally  watched  with 
deep  interest  for  any  intelligence  that  might  throw  light  or  shade 
on  our  prospects  beyond.  In  the  course  of  the  winter,  a  letter  was 
received  from  Sir  John  Campbell,  then  English  ambassador  to  Per- 
sia, by  Mr.  Dwight,  who  had  made  the  acquaintance  of  that  gentle- 
man when  on  his  tour  wiih  Mr.  Smith  into  that  country.  The  fol- 
lowing extract,  in  this  connection,  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  the 
reader.  The  letter  was  dated  at  Tehran,  Nov.  20th,  1833 —"  It  is 
the  darkness  of  the  political  horizon  in  Persia,  occasioned  by  the 
demise  of  the  Prince  Royal,  and  the  dangerous  state  of  health  in 
which  his  aged  father  has  lately  been,  that  prompt  me  to  advise  you 
to  await  patiently  the  course  of  events,  before  you  venture  to  permit 
your  friend,  Mr.  Perkins,  to  visit  this  country  for  the  discharge  of 
his  holy  functions.  Some  general  commotion  will  certainly  take 
place,  before  any  establishment  of  order  can  be  expected,  or  before 
any  tolerable  security  can  be  afforded,  to  the  persons  or  property  of 
Europeans,  whose  avocations  remove  them  from  any  authority. 

"Orooraiah  has,  since  your  departure  from  the  country,  been 
devastated  by  the  plague,  and  the  subsequent  evils  which  it  has  ex- 
perienced from  rapacious  governors,  has  subverted  all  order,  and,  I 
may  add,  security,  in  the  province;  added  to  which  the  local  gov- 
ernment of  Azerbijan  is  so  inefficient  and  imbecile,  that  it  is  unable, 
either  to  collect  revenues,  restore  order,  or  to  protect  the  inhabi- 
tants, who,  discontented  and  disaffected,  are  in  a  state  little  short  of 
revolt.  The  incursions  of  the  neighboring  Koords,  also,  render  a 
residence  in  any  part  of  the  province,  at  present  unsafe  for  a  Eu- 
ropean." 

Abbas  Meerza,  whose  death  is  here  mentioned  was  the  favorite 
son  of  his  aged  father,  Feth  Ali  Shah,  and  had,  for  many  years, 
been  heir  apparent  to  the  throne.  He  resided  at  Tabreez  as  the 
governor  of  Azerbijan,  the  northern  province  of  Persia,  and  the 
regulation  of  the  foreign  relations  of  the  whole  country  were  en- 
trusted to  him,  which  led  the  English  and  Russian  ambassadors 
commonly  to  reside  in  that  city.  He  was  a  zealous  patron  of  civi- 
lization, though  like  the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  he  had  unhappily  fallen 
into  the  vices  of  Europeans  in  introducing  their  improvements. 
Very  high  hopes,  however,  had  been  entertained,  from  his  enlight- 
ened views,  in  his  prospective  reign  over  Persia.  We  had  regard- 
ed our  own  missionary  prospects  in  that  country  as  not  a  little  de- 
pending on  the  life  and  influence  of  that  remarkable  man.  He,  who 
has  the  hearts  of  all  in  his  hands,  has,  in  the  event,  however,  raised 
up  for  us  other  protectors,  to  aid  and  encourage  us  in  our  work, 
beyond  what  we  had  ever  anticipated  in  that  dark  Muhamniedan 
land. 

The  letter  from  Sir  John  Campbell,  to  whose  personal  and  offi- 
cial kindness,  we  were  subsequently  laid  under  very  great  obliga- 
tions, as  we  shall  have  occasion  to  observe,  did  not  deter  us  from 
prosecuting  our  arrangements  to  proceed  to  Persia  in  the  Spring, 


80 


LETTER  FROM  MR.  HAAS  EMBARKATION. 


according  to  our  original  plan,  as  we  had  in  mind  to  linger  at  Ta- 
breez,  until  a  more  quiet  state  of  the  country  should  allow  us  to  at* 
tempt  a  residence  at  the  remote  town  of  Oroomiah.  To  our  great 
relief,  moreover,  on  the  very  evening  preceding  our  departure  from 
Constantinople,  a  second  letter  was  received  from  him  announcing 
the  appointment  of  another  heir  apparent  to  the  throne,  and  a  change 
in  other  respects  so  favorable,  in  the  political  aspect  of  things,  that 
he  advised  me  to  come  on  immediately  to  Persia. 

A  letter  received  by  Mr.  Dwight,  about  the  same  time  from  the 
Rev.  F.  Haas,  a  missionary  of  the  Basle  Society,  who  had  just  come 
to  Tabreez  from  Shoosha,  in  Georgia,  alludes  to  this  same  general 
subject,  from  which  also  an  extract  may  be  interesting  to  the  rea- 
der. It  was  dated  at  Tabreez,  Dec.  13th,  1833.  The  idiom  of  a 
foreigner  will  of  course  be  understood*  The  extract  is  as  follows: 
"  1  express  to  you  the  real  joy  I  felt,  when  I  heard  from  Mr.  Nis- 
bet,  that  we  shall  see,  after  a  short  time,  some  of  your  dear  brethren, 
passing  through  this  place  and  settling  at  Oroomiah.  You  expect- 
ed them  this  autumn,  at  Constantinople,  and  that  they  were  to  con- 
tinue their  voyage  next  spring.  I  should  be  glad  to  hear  if  they 
really  did  arrive,  and  if,  in  consequence,  we  may  hope  to  see  them 
with  us  at  the  appointed  time.  May  the  Lord  guide  them  safely  to 
their  hopeful  and  interesting  field  of  labor.  I  trust  we  will  give 
hand  and  assist  one  another  by  brotherly  love  and  unity  of  spirit. 

"  The  death  of  the  Prince  Royal,  Abbas  Meerza,  produced  no 
troubles  here,  as  some  were  inclined  to  fear.  The  Shah,  Feth  Ali, 
as  it  is  said,  has  been  restored  from  his  sickness.  He  intends  to 
send  here  Muhammed  Meerza,  the  son  of  Abbas  Meerza,  to  occupy 
the  place  of  his  father.  Muhammed  Meerza  is  said  to  be  a  strong 
Muhammedan;  but  a  zealot  for  hereditary  systems  becomes,  very 
often,  more  useful  to  the  cause  of  truth  than  one  indifferent  to  every 
religion.  I  felt  myself  bound  to  make  this  report,  but  must  add, 
that  in  general,  as  you  youtselves  know,  we  cannot  look  for  security 
in  this  country,  (on  account  of  the  advanced  age  of  the  present 
king,)  according  to  human  manner  of  concluding,  until  a  new  king 
occupies  the  throne,  who  knows  how  to  keep  it."  I  hardly  need 
say,  that  the  pledge  of  this  excellent  missionary  brother  here  made 
to  "  give  hand  and  help  one  another,"  was  most  amply  fedeemed 
on  our  subsequent  delightful  acquaintance  and  intercourse,  alike  by 
himseflf  and  his  worthy  associates  who  afterwards  joined  him. 

We  took  passage  to  Trebizond  in  a  fine  English  schooner,  the 
Shah,  (king,  in  Persian,)  Capt.  Smith,  which  plied  regularly  be- 
tween that  city  and  the  capital.  It  was  a  countryman  built  in  Balti- 
more— had  been  used  as  a  Slaver — captured  and  sold,  and  was  dig- 
nified with  its  present  august  cognomen,  to  attract  the  patronage  of 
Persian  merchants.  We  took  with  us  an  Armenian  young  man, 
who  belonged  at  Smyrna,  and  knew  a  little  English,  to  interpret 
for  us  in  cases  where  my  moderate  stock  of  Turkish  would  not  suf- 
fice, and  render  us  other  assistance  on  the  way.    In  alluding  to 


THE  BOSPHORUS. 


81 


him,  which  I  shall  have  frequent  occasion  to  do,  1  will  cull  him  by 
his  name,  Takvoor. 

May  17.  Early  this  morning  we  were  summoned  to  repair  to  tlie 
schooner.  She  had  left  the  liarbor  of  Constaiitiiio[)le  nearly  a  week 
before,  when  "the  sotith  wind  blew  softly,"  and  even  this  soon  dy- 
ing away,  had  been  toiling  and  beating,  all  that  time,  against  the 
stern  gusts  from  the  north,  so  as  if  possible,  to  make  her  way  up 
through  the  Straits  of  the  Bosphorus  and  gain  the  Black  Sea.  And 
we  had  as  long  been  on  the  alert — most  of  our  boxes  on  board — 
lioping  for  a  favorable  breeze  and  expecting,  every  hour,  to  be  sum- 
moned away.  Our  missionary  friends  were  apprized  of  our  expected 
departure,  this  morning,  and  all  assembled,  at  Mr.  Goodell's  house, 
where  we  sung  a  hymn  and  kneeled  down  and  prayed  together,  as  we 
supposed,  for  the  last  time  on  earth.  They  then  accompanied 
us  to  the  wharf;  there  we  exchanged  the  last  farewell  with  most  of 
them;  while  two  or  three  stepped  into  the  boat  and  accompanied 
us  to  the  vessel.  These  were  solemn  and  tender  moments.  When 
we  ]eft  America,  our  strugorling  emotions  and  those  of  our  friends, 
found  some  relief  in  the  prospect  of  our  enjoying  a  temporary  home, 
with  missionary  brethren  at  Constantinople.  Now,  we  were  ven- 
turing out,  upon  untried  ground,  with  no  American  missionary,  and 
no  American  resident  even,  beyond  us.  We  were  also  lonely,  in- 
experienced adventurers,  embarking  on  a  momentous  enterprise, 
with  no  christian  friend  to  counsel  or  console,  whatever  difficulties 
and  trials  might  await  us.  Trusting  in  God,  however,  at  whose 
bidding  we  went,  we  felt  no  inclination  to  shrink  or  linger.  The 
morning  was  one  of  the  most  lovely  of  May  ;  and  the  Bosphorus 
studded  with  its  smiling  villages  and  now  clothed  in  all  the  rich  ver- 
dure of  spring,  spread  out  a  scene  before  us  indescribably  beautiful. 
Never  were  our  hearts  more  tenderly  touched  with  the  pathetic 
lines  of  Heber — 

"  Though  every  prospect  pleuses, 
And  only  man  is  vile," 

than  while  passing  the  magnificent  palaces,  fine  villages,  fertile  fields 
and  tasteful  gardens  on  each  shore  of  these  Straits,  and  contrasting 
these  abounding  gifts  of  nature  and  these  splendid  monuments  of 
art  with  the  degradation  of  the  multitudes  who  inherit  them. 

We  had-e.\pected  to  reach  our  vessel  before  ascending  halfway 
up  the  Straits;  but,  in  hope  of  a  fair  wind,  and  having  beat  through 
DeviVs  current — the  most  rapid  point  in  the  Straits — the  day  pre- 
vious, the  captain  had  started  at  3  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and,  by 
incessant  toil,  had  made  up  almost  to  the  Black  Sea  before  we  over- 
took him.  Our  long  ride  of  about  twenty  miles  in  the  small  boat, 
most  of  the  way  in  the  face  of  the  chilling  north  wind,  was  rather  te- 
dious for  the  ladies  ;  to  the  last,  however,  it  was  interesting.  The 
mountains,  for  several  miles,  along  the  shores,  were  capped  with 
douds  from  the  sea,  now  furiously  leaping  from  summit  to  summit 

II 


82 


ACCIDENT — CAPT.  GREY. 


"on  the  wings  of  the  wind,"  and  anon  quietly  curling  and  skulking 
in  the  ravines  and  valleys  below. 

Just  after  we  went  on  board,  an  accident  occurred.  The  wind 
suddenly  falling  and  the  vessel  running  near  the  shore  to  avoid  the 
current,  drifted  down  a  little  in  a  twinkling,  and  stuck  fast  upon  a 
bar  of  sand.  All  was  now  hurry  and  anxiety.  Fortunately,  a  boat, 
from  the  British  frigate,  Actaeon,  lying  at  Tarapea,  a  little  below, 
was  passing  by  at  some  distance,  from  an  excursion  to  the  Black 
Sea,  and  came  to  our  relief.  On  board  the  boat  was  Capt.  Grey, 
(son  of  the  late  Prime  minister  of  England,)  a  midshipman  and 
about  twenty  men.  Anchors  were  carried  several  rods  and  Jet 
down ;  the  cables  applied  to  the  windlass,  and,  after  emptying  our 
water-casks  and  working  two  hours,  we  got  off.  I  was  much  ])]eas- 
cd  with  the  unaffected  gentlemanly  conduct  of  Capt.  Grey  on  the  oc- 
casion. In  him,  real  politeness  seemed  personified,  the  elements  of 
which  are  always  the  same — simplicity  and  '  rea]  kindness  kindly  ex- 
pressed.' Our  missionary  friends  repaired  to  the  cabin  and  took  some 
refreshment  and  then  bade  us  farewell.  Our  eyes  instinctively  lin- 
gered after  them,  down  the  Bosphorus  as  long  as  they  could  be  seen. 

Our  misfortune  in  getting-  aground  hindered  us  too  long  to  allow 
us  to  leave  the  Straits,  that  day,  as  the  captain  had  intended.  We 
therefore  merely  dragged  up  a  little  and  anchored  for  the  night. 
Two  or  three  Turks  came  on  board,  greatly  marvelling  how  we  had 
made  up  so  far,  in  spite  of  wind  and  current,  and  desired  to  procure 
for  themselves  and  about  twenty  comrades,  a  passage  in  such  a  ma- 
gic craft  to  Trebizond.  Native  vessels  do  not  attempt  to  pass  up 
those  Straits  without  a  fair  wind.  Our  accommodations,  in  the  Shah, 
we  found  excellent.  The  captain  was  a  very  intelligent,  kind  man  ; 
and  the  owner,  a  pious  gentleman,  was  on  board  as  supercargo.  In 
the  cabin,  was  a  large,  well  selected  christian  library :  and  Mrs. 
Perkins  and  myself  had  in  addition  a  quiet  little  room  to  ourselves. 

May  18.  The  holy  Sabbath  came  with  its  delightful  associa- 
tions, but  not  with  the  sabbath  privileges  of  home ;  and  never  did 
we  expect  to  be  permitted  again  to  worship  with  such  assemblies  as 
we  had  enjoyed  in  our  native  land,  or  even  at  Constantinople.  The 
captain  was  early  on  deck  and  called  all  hands,  sent  a  line  ahead 
and  attached  it  to  a  Greek  vessel  that  lay  anchored  near,  and  drew 
ours  along  aide.  As  we  came  up  we  found  on  board  the  Greek  brig 
from  one  to  two  hundred  filthy  fellows,  Turks,  Greeks  and  Armeni- 
ans, bound  to  Trebizond.  We  made  fast  our  vessel,  replenished 
our  casks  with  water,  and  were  soon  again  on  our  way.  The  timid 
Greeks  strongly  remonstrated  with  Capt.  Smith  for  attempting  to 
force  his  way  through  the  Bosphorus  in  the  face  of  such  rough 
winds.  The  superior  skill  and  courage  of  English  seamen  .seemed 
strongly  to  impress  them  with  the  general  superiority  of  English 
character  to  their  own.  A  stiff  breeze  prevailed  for  two  or  three 
hours,  by  the  aid  of  which,  we  were  able  to  beat;  but  it  subsided 
and  left  us  near  the  mouth  of  the  Bosphorus  still  unable  to  gain  the 


THE  BLACK  SE\  SUPERSTITIONS. 


83 


Black  Sea.  We  anchored  at  the  foot  of  a  summit  on  the  Asiatic 
shore,  on  which  is  a  Turl<ish  castle. 

Mot/  19.  We  weighed  anchor  early  and  by  short  tacks  under 
each  shore,  as  was  most  favorable,  succeeded  in  leaving  the  Bospho- 
rus  and  entering  the  Black  Sea  about  noon.  A  thick,  dannp  fog  still 
filled  the  atmosphere  and  vividly  impressed  us  with  the  appropriate- 
ness of  the  appellation — Black — or  dark,  Sea.  From  the  head  of 
the  Bosphorus,  the  shores,  on  both  sides,  recede  at  right  angles,  and, 
as  a  bend  occurs  in  the  Straits  a  few  miles  below,  it  is  almost  im- 
possible for  vessels  coming  down  to  find  the  entrance,  especially  when 
this  fog  prevails.  Terrible  wrecks  occur  there,  in  almost  every 
storm.  Beclouded  in  mist  and  fog,  the  doubtful  mariner  creeps 
along,  and,  uncertain,  yet  hoping,  that  he  has  gained  the  entrance, 
is  decoyed  into  some  treacherous  nook  and  dashed  in  a  moment 
upon  the  foaming  rocks.  There  are  few  points  in  any  sea  navi- 
gated by  Europeans  which  are  so  perilous. 

A  kind  of  romance  came  over  us  as  we  reflected  where  we  were, 
— entering  on  a  course  never  before  traversed  by  Americans,  ex- 
cept by  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight,  on  their  return  from  Persia. 
Mvs.  Perkins  was  the  ftrst  American  lady,  who  sailed  on  the  Black 
Sea.  We  had  anticipated  delightful  weather,  at  this  season;  but 
found  it  damp  and  chilly,  during  most  of  our  passage. 

May  21.  This  morning,  a  Turkish  brig  lay  off  against  us, 
about  four  miles  distant.  She  sent  a  boat  to  us,  and  we  were  a  little 
apprehensive  respecting  the  object.  Innumerable  pirates  formerly 
infested  this  sea.  Five  athletic  Turks  jumped  on  board,  made  aft 
where  we  were  sitting,  and  helped  themselves  to  chairs.  They 
wanted  water.  They  had  been  strolling  twelve  days  from  Trebi- 
zond,  without  seeing  land.  We  gave  them  a  cask  of  water,  the 
distance  to  the  Straits  and  a  note  to  our  friends  at  Constantinople, 
and  they  quietly  made  off. 

May  22.  Our  native  passengers  became  tired  of  our  slow  pro- 
gress, and  proposed  to  resort  to  some  expedient  to  procure  a  fair 
wind.  It  was  affecting  to  observe  the  degrading  superstitions,  by 
which  these  benighted  Muhammedans  and  nominal  Christians  are 
enslaved.  The  captain  related  to  me  some  exhibitions  of  this  de- 
scription, that  occurred  on  board  the  Shah,  on  his  previous  passage 
down  from  Trebizond.  On  board  was  a  large  number  of  Turks, 
Persians  and  Armenians.  A  long  calm  occurred,  during  which 
the  captain  manifested  some  impatience.  "  Why  do  you  not  send 
for  a  fair  wind  ?"  they  interrogated  him ;  adding,  "  you  have  no 
right  to  expect  a  good  wind  without  using  means  to  obtain  it." 
Accordingly,  they  set  about  procuring  a  fair  wind,  each  respective 
class  in  their  own  way.  Among  the  Armenians  was  a  priest,  and 
among  the  Persians  a  raoollah.  The  priest,  at  the  request  of  the 
Armenians,  dressed  up  two  candles,  with  superstitious  ceremonies 
and  incantations,  lighted  them  and  sent  them  off,  one  before  and 
the  other  aft,  on  cards  large  enough  to  float  them  on  the  surface. 


84 


MUHAMMEDAN  SECTS  IDEAS  OF  AMERICA. 


The  moollah,  at  the  instance  of  the  Persians,  extracted  passages 
from  the  Koran,  rolled  them  up  and  set  them  adrift.  Three  days 
afterwards  a  fair  wind  occurred,  and  the  priest  and  moollah  came 
to  the  captain  with  an  arrogant  air,  claiming  a  drink  of  rum  as  a 
reward  for  their  agency  in  procuring  it ! 

In  the  same  company  of  passengers  was  illustrated  the  deep 
hostility  that  exists  between  the  two  Muhammedan  sects,  the  Soo- 
nees  and  the  Shiites.  The  Persians  belong  to  the  latter.  On  the 
passage,  their  barrel  of  water  failed ;  and  they  applied  to  the  cap- 
tain for  more.  The  captain  pointed  them  to  a  cask  in  the  hold, 
near  which  some  of  the  Turks  had  their  night  quarters.  "  What," 
they  exclaimed,  "  are  we  to  drink  water  that  has  stood  where  the 
infidel  Turks  have  been  staying?  It  will  not  do!"  The  captain 
told  them  that  his  water  was  all  there,  and  endeavored  to  pacify 
them ;  but  all  to  no  purpose.  What  to  do,  however,  they  knew 
not.  To  perish  with  thirst  was  hard,  and  to  drink  water  near 
which  the  Turks  or  Christians  had  slept  seemed  equally  frightful. 
The  moollah  was  therefore  called,  and  a  grave  consultation  took 
place,  during  which  some  of  their  number  made  further  search  for 
water,  and  finding  one  cask  a  few  feet  back  of  the  others  and  less 
exposed  to  infidel  pollution,  their  scruples  so  far  subsided  that  it 
was  resolved  to  fill  their  vessel  from  that  cask.  But  a  new  difficulty 
then  arose.  There  was  but  one  pump  for  drawing  off  water,  and 
that  had  been  used  by  the  infidels.  They,  however,  attached  a 
rope  to  it,  threw  it  overboard,  and  after  thoroughly  soaking  it  in  the 
salt  water,  this  difficulty  was  also  surmounted. 

One  of  the  Turks  on  board,  sat  on  deck  to-day,  engaged  most 
of  the  time  in  reading  the  Koran.  It  is  very  common  forMiiham- 
medan  merchants  and  mechanics  who  can  read,  to  keep  their  sa- 
cred book  lying  by  them,  and  whenever  a  leisure  moment  occurs, 
to  spend  it  in  perusing  its  contents.  How  ought  the  reverential  re- 
gard which  these  followers  of  the  False  Prophet  thus  pay  to  the  pro- 
ductions of  an  impostor,  to  rebuke  nominal  Christians  for  their 
neglect  of  the  word  of  God  ! 

Maij  23.  Takvoor  told  the  Turks  that  I  came  from  the  New 
World,  the  only  appellation  by  which  America  is  known  to  them. 
They  stared  at  me  with  amazement,  and  said  it  was  a  day  favored 
beyond  any  they  had  ever  anticipated,  that  they  were  permitted  to  be- 
hold an  inhabitant  of  the  New  World.  I  inquired  of  them  where  they 
supposed  the  New  World  to  be  situated,  and  they  pointed  upward  ! 
The  captain  informed  me,  that  his  Persian  passengers  on  the  pre- 
vious passage  to  Constantinople,  developed  a  regular  theory  on  this 
subject.  They  told  him,  that  their  countrymen,  who  know  of  the 
existence  of  the  New  World,  suppose  it  to  be  located  in  the  skies, 
and  liold  that  the  English  discovered  it  by  the  aid  of  a  very  large 
telescope!  The  Persians,  from  their  situation  back  in  the  interior, 
know  very  little  of  matters  pertaining  to  the  sea.  Those  merchants 
who  then  went  down  to  Constantinople,  had  never  before  seen  ves- 


A  HAJEE  DEVOTIONS  METAMORPHOSIS. 


85 


sels.  One  day,  observing  the  captain  taking  the  sun  with  his  sex- 
tant, they  supposed  him  to  be  searching  in  the  skies  for  land ! 
They  becanne  quite  apprehensive,  thinking  that  he  had  lost  his  way, 
and  held  a  sober  conference  among  tlieinselves  on  the  subject. 
One  gravely  asked,  "Do  you  suppose  he  really  knows  where  we 
are  and  a  second  as  gravely  replied,  "Perhaps  we  have  got  out 
of  the  Black  Sea,  it  is  now  so  many  days  since  we  have  seen  the 
land,  and  are  now  going,  the  Lord  only  knows  where!" 

On  board  was  an  old  Hajee.  This  term  is  applied  to  those  who 
have  made  a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca.  Takvoor,  hearing  the  old  man 
addressed  by  that  epithet,  inquired  of  him  whether  he  had  actually 
been  to  the  sacred  city.  "O  yes,"  he  replied  with  an  air  of  great 
self-complacency,  "and  you  and  that  gentleman  (meaning  me) 
ought  to  go  to  Jerusalem!^'  Both  Miihamniedans  and  eastern 
Christians  regard  pilgrimages  to  hallowed  places  as  certain  to  se- 
cure them  eligible  seats  in  paradise,  whatever  may  be  the  personal 
character  of  the  pilgrim. 

At  sunset  I  observed  the  Hajee  saying  his  prayers,  which  he  did 
publicly  on  deck.  Miihammedans  never  seek  retirement  for  their 
devotions,  but  commence  at  the  moment  prescribed,  wherever  they 
happen  to  be,  on  the  road,  in  the  field,  in  the  market,  or  on  deck  on 
ship-board.  They  often  break  off,  also,  and  attend  to  salutations  or 
business  during  their  prayers.  I  have  observed  our  muleteer,  on 
the  road,  suddenly  halt,  when  we  were  travelling  quite  fast,  dismount, 
kneel  and  commence  his  prayers;  then  rise,  ride  on,  overtake  us, 
dismount  again  and  resume  his  devotions,  and  so  on,  repeating  the 
same  process  five  or  six  times,  and  meanwhile,  giving  nil  necessary 
directions  to  his  servants,  until  the  customary  routine  was  completed. 
They  accompany  their  recitals  with  frequent  genuflexions  and  press- 
ing the  forehead  on  the  ground  ;  and  are  always  particular  to  per- 
form their  devotions  with  their  faces  directed  towards  Mecca,  the 
birth-place  and  tomb  of  their  prophet. 

The  Hajee,  who  had  been  a  great  traveller  in  his  own  estimation, 
made  many  inquiries  respecting  the  location  of  the  New  World. 
"  According  to  our  ideas,"  said  he,  "  there  is  only  one  world  ;  and 
the  New  World  must  be  some  part  of  that ;  yet,  if  it  is  a  part,  how 
can  it  be  so  far  distant  ?"  The  captain  endeavored  to  explain  to 
him,  that  a  c-reat  ocean  must  be  crossed  to  reach  the  New  World. 
"But  there  is  no  sea  larger  than  AJch  Dengis — the  Mediterranean 
Sea,"  he  replied ;  and  so  difficult  was  it  to  convince  him  of  the  ex- 
istence of  a  larger  body  of  water  than  the  Mediterrane.-.n,  that  we 
were  obliged  to  leave  him  as  ignorant  and  perplexed  as  we  found  him. 

In  the  prospect  of  soon  reaching  Trebizond,  Takvoor,  in  the  af- 
ternoon transformed  himself  from  an  Armenian  into  a  European,  by 
a  metamorphosis  as  great  and  sudden  as  that  by  which  a  chrysalis 
ever  becomes  a  butterfly.  He  had  long  been  wishing  to  put  on 
European  clothes,  but  fear  of  the  Turks  had  prevented.  At  this 
distance  from  his  home,  and  in  my  employ,  that  obstacle  was  re- 


86 


ARRIVAL  AT  TREBIZOND  ITS  SCENERY. 


moved.  Unfortunately,  however,  his  metamorphosis  was,  in  the  de- 
scending order — from  the  butterfly  to  the  chrysalis.  For  purposes 
of  active  labor,  the  European  costume  may  be  superior  ;  but  for 
gracefulness,  the  flowing  robes  and  swelling  turbans  which  even 
raydys,  (christian  subjects,)  are  permitted  to  wear,  entirely  eclipse 
ti^ht  coats  and  pantaloons.  And  on  our  arrival  al  Trebizond, 
Takvoor's  constrained,  awkward  appearance,  in  his  new  chrysalis 
state,  drew  upon  him  so  many  humorous  comments,  from  all  classes, 
that  he  soon  resumed  his  former  costume. 

May  29.  The  wind  freshened  about  noon  and  carried  us  rapidly 
toward  Trebizond.  The  atmosphere  was  uncommonly  clear,  and 
the  sun,  shining  with  a  peculiar  brilliancy,  on  the  city  and  sur- 
rounding country,  presented  an  enchanting  scene.  The  houses  in 
the  city  were  half  shrouded  in  verdant  trees  and  shrubbery ;  culti- 
vated'fields  rise  gently  in  the  rear;  elevated  hills,  covered  with  fine 
forests,  and  fruit-trees  growing  wild,  but  richly  productive,  lie  far- 
ther back,  rising  successively  higher  and  higher;  and  lofty  moun- 
tains, many  of  them  covered  with  eternal  snow,  stretch  from  the 
sea  at  cape  Joroz  fifteen  miles  west  of  the  city,  and  meeting  the 
sea  again  far  to  the  east,  form  a  magnificent  amphitheatre  and 
b9und  the  horizon.  As  we  approached  the  city,  the  outlines,  which 
at  first  appeared  indistinct,  brightened  and  increased  in  beauty  and 
in  symmetry,  until  the  eye  was  filled  with  the  completeness  of  the 
scene. 

The  Shah  fired  a  gun,  as  we  entered  the  harbor,  and  the  flags  of 
all  the  consuls  in  the  city  were  flying  as  a  token  of  welcome.  We 
dropped  anchor  about  sunset  and  were  soon  safely  moored.  The 
arrival  of  an  English  vessel,  at  that  distant  city,  was  then  an  event 
of  much  interest,  both  to  the  natives  and  the  European  residents. 
Now,  the  magic  power  of  steam,  which  was  not  long  after  intro- 
troduced  into  those  regions,  has  so  annihilated  distance  on  the  Black 
Sea,  that  we  came  down  from  Trebizond  to  Constantinople  in  less 
than  three  days,  about  one  third  of  the  period  occupied  by  our  gal- 
lant Shah  in  beating  op  the  Bosphorus,  a  distance  of  only  thirty  miles, 
when  we  went  on, — and  it  has  made  that  remote  city,  away  on  the 
south-eastern  shore  of  the  Euxine,  for  facility  of  business  and  fre- 
quency of  communication,  almost  like  a  suburb  of  the  Turkish 
capital. 


THE  CITY  SITUATION  POPULATION. 


87 


CHAPTER  VI. 

TB.EBIZOND,  AND  JOURNEY  THENCE  TO  ERZROOM. 

We  went  on  shore,  May  30th,  the  morning  after  reaching  Tre- 
bizond,  and  were  cordially  welcomed  by  Messrs.  Sutor*  and  Ab- 
bott, of  the  English  consulate  and  mercantile  house,  under  whose 
hospitable  roof  we  found  an  excellent  home  during  our  stay  in  the 
city.  For  this  attention  and  their  very  kind  efforts  in  aiding  us  to 
complete  our  preparation  for  our  land-journey,  we  were  laid  under 
great  obligation.  Mr.  Brant,  the  consul,  was  absent  on  a  journey 
to  Persia.  These  English  gentlemen,  a  French  consul  and  his 
family,  and  a  Russian  consul,  were  then  the  only  European  resi- 
dents in  Trebizond.  This  city  is  the  ancient  Trapezus,  situated 
at  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  Black  Sea,  in  the  province  of 
ancient  Pontus.  It  is  about  six  hundred  miles  distant  from  Con- 
stantinople. It  has,  from  time  immemorial,  been  a  place  of  consid- 
erable celebrity.  It  was  the  first  Greek  colony  which  received  and 
entertained  the  Ten  Thousand  in  their  immortal  retreat.  Origi- 
nally settled  by  enterprising  Greeks,  it  early  rose  into  commercial 
importance,  and  at  a  later  period  was  for  a  long  time  the  capital  of 
the  eastern  Greek  empire.  It  is  favorably  situated  for  trade,  partic- 
ularly for  transit  trade,  being  on  the  great  high-way  between  Eu- 
rope and  Central  Asia.  It  has  unfortunately  nothing  that  can  be 
called  a  harbor  ;  but  has  a  lolerably  good  road-stead  for  the  anchor- 
age of  vessels.  Remains  of  an  ancient  mole,  constructed  by  the 
emperor  Hadrian,  are  still  perceptible,  but  no  longer  of  utility. 

Trebizond  contains  a  population  not  varying  far  from  25,000,  of 
whom  about  3,000  are  Greeks,  1,000  Armenians,  a  few  hundreds 
Armenian  Catholics,  and  the  rest  Muhammedans.  The  latter  re- 
side principally  within  the  wall  of  the  city,  which  is  in  a  state  of 
very  good  repair  ;  while  the  Christians,  both  natives  and  Europe- 
ans, are  limited  to  the  part  without  it.  Osman  Pasha  was  then,  and 
still  is,  the  governor,  who  is  said  to  be  a  bigotted  Mussulman,  but 
is  an  excellent  ruler  for  a  Turk.  His  fame  is  particularly  celebra- 
ted for  having  reduced  to  subjection  the  Laz,  a  wild  disorderly  tribe 
of  Milhammedans,  who  reside  in  the  mountainous  regions  back  of 
Trebizond,  and  have  formerly  committed  frequent  depredations  on 
travellers  and  caravans. 

The  exterior  charms  of  this  place,  whose  natural  situation  is  real- 
ly almost  unparalleled  in  beauty,  are  soon  marred,  as  is  the  case  at 
Constantinople,  and  indeed  in  all  eastern  cities,  when  the  traveller 


*  Now  British  consul  at  Cesarea. 


ss 


CLIMATE  PRODUCTIONS. 


enters  it.  The  houses  are  built  principally  of  stone,  the  roofs  being 
covered  with  half  cylindrical  tile;  and  they  are  without  glass  windows. 
Here  too  the  streets  are  exceedingly  narrow,  crooked  and  filthy.  The 
climate  is  very  mild  for  its  latitude.  Figs,  olives,  pomegranates,  and 
lemons,  are  easily  cultivated  in  and  around  the  city.  Its  atmos- 
phere is  singularly  humid,  so  much  so  that  cutlery  and  every  metal 
article  can  be  preserved  uninjured,  only  with  the  greatest  difficulty. 
The  most  striking  physical  feature  of  Trebizond  is  a  lofty  bold  hill, 
that  overhangs  it  in  the  rear,  called  by  the  natives,  Bas  Tapa, 
(Azure  hill,)  from  which  stone  is  extensively  quarried  for  building, 
and  from  the  top  of  which  is  enjoyed  a  perfect  bird's-eye  view  of  the 
town  and  its  environs  below,  and  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  sea 
and  its  shores  far  to  the  eastward  and  westward. 

The  shyness  and  curiosity  manifested  by  the  natives,  as  we  pass- 
ed through  the  streets,  announced  a  degree  of  barbarism  which  we 
had  not  before  witnessed.  They  have  a  reputation  abroad  for  pos- 
sessing an  unusual  share  of  rudeness  and  bigotry, — a  character 
which  the  Europeans  who  reside  there,  as  they  informed  us,  have 
abundant  occasion  to  award  them. 

May  30.  We  visited  the  French  consul,  M.  Outray.  He  is  an 
elderly  man  and  has  a  large  fiimily  who  have  wandered  about  with 
him  from  place  to  place  in  western  Asia,  as  he  has  received  difTer- 
ent  appointments  under  government.  For  many  years,  he  was  con- 
sul at  Bagdad,  subsequently,  at  Aleppo,  and  was  now  and  still  is, 
consul  at  Trebizond,  where  his  office  is  a  mere  sinecure,  a  French 
vessel  hardly  ever  appearing  there.  He  is  a  native  of  Bagdad,  and 
first  entered  the  service  of  government  in  the  capacity  of  dragoman 
(interpreter)  to  general  Gardana,  the  ambassador  sent  by  Napoleon 
to  the  Shah  of  Persia,  to  treat  for  a  passage  through  that  country, 
on  his  projected  career  of  conquest  to  India.  The  consul  is  a  very 
modest,  gentlemanly  man,  has  a  handsome,  intelligent  family  of  chil- 
dren, and  his  wife  appears  to  be  an  extremely  nice,  kind  lady.  She 
entertained  us,  on  this  occasion,  with  a  very  minute  account  of  her 
adventures  in  crossing  the  desert  between  Aleppo  and  Bagdad,  some 
years  before,  with  several  of  her  children,  in  a  caravan  of  camels. 
This  narrative  she  often  repeated  to  us.  The  polite  attentions  of 
this  French  family  I  should  not  omit  gratefully  to  acknowledge. 
French  kindness  when  compared  with  that  of  the  English  is  fre- 
quently light,  flippant  and  agreeable,  rather  than  solid  and  useful. 
This  difference)  which  a  traveller  often  notices  as  he  meets  with 
representatives  of  the  two  nations,  is  well  characterized  in  the  la- 
conic description  of  an  American  lady  who  was  some  time  sick  at 
Marseilles.  This  lady  being  ill  among  strangers  in  a  strange  land, 
was  of  course  in  circumstances  well  adapted  to  test  the  hospitality 
of  her  neighbors.  The  French  ladies,  she  stfutes,  would  come  and 
bring  her  Jlouicrs  all  day,  lohile  the  English  ladies  would  come  and 
icatch  with  her  all  night. 
Takvoor,  iu  his  rambles  to-day,  fell  in  with  an  Armenian  priest, 


ARMENIAN  PRIEST  THE  SABBATH. 


89 


with  whom  he  had  a  long  conversation,  some  of  the  items  of"  which 
he  detailed  to  me  and  I  will  do  the  same  for  the  reader. 

Priest.  You  have  come  here  with  a  stranger,  I  understand. 

Takvoor.  Yes,  with  an  American  gentleman. 

jP.  I  suppose  you  are  a  Turk,  as  you  wear  the  dress  of  the  sol- 
diers. (Takvoor  was  still  in  his  chrysalis  state.)  T.  No;  my  na- 
tion is  Armenian.  P.  How  then  do  you  wear  such  clothes  ?  T.  I 
am  the  interpreter  of  this  American  gentlemen.  P.  I  am  glad  one 
Armenian  is  allowed  to  wear  Frank  clothes ;  but  how  comicaJly  you 
look  in  them  !  Well,  is  this  gentleman  a  Luthdn  ?*  T.  Yes. 
P.  Is  the  religion  of  the  English  and  of  the  American  the  same? 
T.  Yes.  P.  Well,  you  are  every  day  with  this  gentleman  ;  do  you 
eat  all  things  1  T.  Yes  ;  in  the  New  Testament  it  is  written,  to 
the  'pure  all  things  are  pure  ;  and  again,  '  not  that  which  goeth  into 
the  mouth  defileth  a  man.'  P.  This  is  true;  well,  come  and  drink 
coffee  with  me;  and  when  you  go  home,  give  my  respects  to  the 
American  gentleman  and  invite  him  to  come  and  see  me,  and  walk 
with  me  daily  in  my  garden. 

As  most  of  the  religion  of  these  oriental  Christians  consists  in 
their  crossing  themselves  and  in  attention  to  their  meats  and  drinks, 
in  relation  to  which  they  are  very  punctilious,  the  liberality  of  feel- 
ing manifested  by  this  priest  was  very  gratifying. 

June  1.  The  Sabbath, — but  no  "  church-going  bell"  called  us  to 
the  sanctuary  of  God.  The  native  nominal  Christians  spend  a  small 
portion  of  the  morning  in  senseless  recitals  and  ceremonies,  and  the 
rest,  in  clamor  and  noise.  -The  Muhammedans  throughout  Tur- 
key, as  if  to  obliterate  every  vestige  of  its  sacredness.  have  incor- 
porated the  desecration  of  the  Sabbath  into  their  language,  calling 
it,  bazar  gun,  market  day  ;  and  they  employ  it  ot^cordingly.  And 
this  Sabbath  violation  of  the  natives,  I  regret  to  add,  in  Trebizond 
and  other  cities  in  the  East,  receives  little  rebuke  from  the  example 
of  the  European  residents.  To-day,  for  instance,  in  the  morning, 
the  French  consul  and  his  son  returned  our  visit ;  and  in  the  after- 
noon, Mr.  Mason,  dragoman  of  the  English  consul,  and  his  wife 
and  child,  called  to  see  us.  Mr.  M.  is  a  very  intelligent  gentleman. 
His  father  was  a  Frenchman  and  his  mother  a  Greek.  His  wife  is 
also  a  Greek.  I  gave  their  little  boy  a  copy  of  the  New  Testament 
in  the  modern  Greek,  hoping  that  the  Sabbath  visit  might  thus 
prove  a  blessing  to  the  visitors. 

June  4.  I  called  on  the  Armenian  priest  above  mentioned.  He 
was  the  second  ecclesiastic  in  age  and  influence  in  the  city.  He 
received  me  very  cordially  and  took  me  with  him  to  visit  the  Ar- 
menian school.  The  Armenians  at  Trebizond  have  but  one  school, 
and  this  scarcely  deserves  the  name.    It  was  then  under  the  care 


*  A  Lutheran — an  epithet  applied  by  Greeks  and  Armeniana  to  prolestants 
in  general— and  usually  involving  the  idea  of  flagrant  heresy,  if  nothing 
worsp. 


90 


ARMENIAN  SCHOOL  NEW  TESTAMENTS. 


of  the  clergy,  some  of  whom  visited  it  every  day.  It  consisted  of 
about  120  boys,  and  was  taught  by  a  deacon.  All  sat,  a  la  Turk, 
upon  the  naked  stone  floor.  The  room  was  small,  and  had  neither 
benches,  tables,  nor  glass  windows.  Still,  the  poor  boys,  all  with 
bright  black  eyes,  seemed  happy  even  there.  A  few  of  them  had 
tattered  copies  of  the  Psalms,  which  were  the  only  school  books 
used.  The  teacher  had  one  entire  copy  of  the  Bible,  which,  I  was 
told,  he  read  daily  to  the  children.  But  in  the  absence  of  books 
and  other  apparatus  suitable  for  a  school-room,  I  was  pained  to  ob- 
serve the  walls  almost  entirely  hung  with  pictures  and  crosses. 
Three  priests  were  present  when  I  called  to  see  this  school.  All 
appeared  to  be  delighted  with  ray  visit.  1  told  them  and  the  chil- 
dren about  our  schools  in  America.  "  We  wish,"  said  the  priests, 
"that  our  girls  and  all  our  children  might  learn;  but  we  are  poor, 
and  oppressed  by  the  Muhammedans."  I  inquired  of  the  priests 
whether  they  would  each  accept  from  me  a  copy  of  a  New  Tes- 
tament. "Most  thankfully,"  they  replied ;  "  and  we  wish  you  to 
write  our  names,  together  with  your  own,  in  them,  and  we  shall 
thus  often  be  reminded  with  pleasure  and  gratitude  of  the  giver." 
They  urged  me  to  walk  and  sit  awhile  with  them,  in  their  garden, 
importuned  me  to  repeat  my  calls,  and  when  I  left  them,  sent 
bunches  of  flowers  and  roses,  and  many  regards,  to  Mrs.  Perkins. 

June  5.  Takvoor  carried  the  New  Testaments  tot  he  Armenian 
priests.  They  returned  many  thanks,  and  said  they  should  read 
these  books  in  their  churches,  that  the  people  might  be  able  to  un- 
derstand what  they  hear.  The  Testaments  were  in  Armeno- 
Turkish — a  language  understood  by  all  classes ;  whereas,  the  Bibles 
before  used,  where  Bibles  existed  at  all,  were  in  ancient  Armenian, 
a  language  about  as  well  understood,  by  priests  and  people,  as 
Egyptian  hieroglyphics. 

1  was  not  a  little  gratified,  on  my  return,  to  learn  from  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Johnston,  our  missionary  at  Trebizond,  that  these  priests  had 
been  his  unwavering  friends,  in  secret,  and  in  public,  so  far  as  they 
dared  to  be,  ever  since  the  commencement  of  his  mission,  which 
was  soon  after  my  acquaintance  ^vith  them.  Only  the  principal  one 
was  now  in  the  city.  I  felt  a  strong  desire  to  visit  him,  particularly 
after  hearing  this  account  of  him.  But  Mr.  Johnston  assured  me, 
that  a  visit  from  me  would  bring  down  a  shower  of  vvrath  upon  the 
poor  priest  from  the  bigotted  bishop  now  there,  which  I  should  be 
as  unwilling  to  become  in  any  way  instrumental  of  inflicting,  as  he 
would  be  unable  to  bear.  Such  is  the  intolerable  rigor,  with  which 
many  Armenian  bishops  attempt  but  too  sucessfully  to  lord  it  over 
God's  heritage.  The  rod  of  their  oppression  will  however,  we  trust, 
ere  long  be  broken. 

When  Takvoor  delivered  the  Testaments,  as  above-named,  an 
ao-ed  priest  from  Giimiish-khanah,  a  town  back  in  the  interior,  was 
present.  He  was  so  enraptured  at  the  sight  of  the  books,  that  he 
immediately  pulled  off  his  cap  and  exclaimed,  "  O  God,  reward  this 


TURKISH  FIKMAN. 


91 


gentleman,  and  bless  him  on  liis  journey."  And  when  Takvoor  left 
them,  this  priest  called  to  him,  and  told  him  to  present  his  love  to 
me,  and  beg  for  him  one  such  New  Testament.  I  sent  to  the  old 
man  my  only  remaining  copy.  The  next  day,  several  boys  from  the 
school  came  to  me,  begging  New  Testaments  for  themselves,  but  I 
was  obliged  to  send  them  empty  away,  deeply  regretting  that  I  had 
not  taken  with  me  an  ample  supply. 

The  reader  will  recollect  that  my  instructions  contemplated  our 
embarking  at  some  port  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Black  Sea,  and 
travelling  thence  by  l^jiis  through  Georgia  into  Persia;  and  such 
was  our  expectation  until  we  received  fuller  information,  relative 
to  the  comparative  facilities  of  different  routes,  ai  Constantinople. 
The  much  greater  distance  and  the  numberless  embarrassments  and 
delays,  likely  to  be  experienced  in  attempting  to  travel  in  the  pro- 
vinces of  Russia,  appeared  to  us  and  to  others  acquainted  with  the 
subject  whom  we  consulted,  to  be  far  more  formidable  obstacles  than 
the  frightful  mountains  and  some  danger  of  annoyance  from  the  law- 
less Koords,  on  the  shortpr  route^ 

Our  preparations  had  been  principally  made,  as  those  of  every 
traveller  in  that  direction  should  be,  at  Constantinople.  There  we 
were  furnished  with  a  royal  firman,  through  the  agency  of  our 
charge  d'affaires,  commanding  all  magistrates,  high  and  low,  on  our 
route  to  Persia,  to  show  us  kindness  and  respect  and  render  us  all 
needed  assistance, — the  whole  couched  of  course  in  the  pompous 
garb  of  oriental  grandiloquence.  As  this  firraan  is  a  very  fair  spe- 
cimen of  Eastern  metaphor,  I  give  it  below  to  the  reader.  He  of 
course  knows  enough  of  Asiatic  rhetoric,  to  understand  my  rank  as 
a  nobleman  and  commodore  Porter's,  as  a  christian  chief. 

A  Turkish  Firman. 

You,  the  honor  of  judges  and  wise  men,  the  fountains  of  excel- 
lence and  wisdom; — you  who  dwell,  from  my  Sublime  Porte  (lofty 
gate)  in  the  countries  by  land  and  by  sea,  mentioned  below,  on  the 
roads  leading  hence,  or  coming  thence : 

Ye  judges  of  the  countries,  and  vicars  of  the  judges,  (may  your 
excellence  be  increased) ;  you  who  are  the  glory  of  your  fellow- 
chiefs,  and  lofty  men  of  the  countries,  the  glory  also  of  the  magis- 
trates, (may  your  power  be  increased) : 

When  this  my  high  and  lofty  mandate  shall  arrive;  Be  it  known 
unto  you,  that  the  charge  d'affaires  of  the  kingdom  of  America, 
who  is  the  highest  among  the  christian  chiefs,  David  Porter,  (may 
his  end  be  blessed,)  in  his  letter  sent  to  my  sublime  Porte,  it 
was  written,  that  from  the  nobles  of  America,  the  nobleman  Per- 
kins, with  his  wife  and  one  dragoman  and  confidential  servant  is 
going  from  my  sublime  Porte,  for  the  purpose  of  travelling,  by  sea 
to  Trebizond  and  from  thence  by  land  to  Erzroom  and  Bayazeed 
and  round  about  that  region  ; — and  that  this  nobleman,  with  his 


92 


OUTFIT  FOR  THE  JOURNEY. 


wife  and  dragoman  and  confidential  servant,  going  and  coming 
through  those  places,  where  ihey  stop  to  rest  on  the  way,  as  it  is  ne- 
cessary, the  tax-gatherers,  and  other  officers,  with  no  pretence,  may 
trouble  or  lay  any  duty  upon  them  ;  but  take  care  that  they  proceed 
safe  and  sound,  with  security  and  protection. 

To  this  effect,  the  above  mentioned  charge  d'affaires  besought 
for  this  my  sacred  decree.  Therefore,  it  is  my  command,  that  it  be 
done,  as  it  is  written  above. 

And  now  ye  judges,  and  vicars  of  judges,  and  all  ye  rulers  men- 
tioned above,  this  nobleman,  (his  servant  not  being  a  raydh,  but 
being  a  confidential  true  servant,  as  it  is  mentioned,)  with  his  wife 
and  his  interpreter  and  his  servant,  going  from  my  sublime  Porte 
through  those  places,  by  land  or  by  sea,  which  have  been  mention- 
ed, when  he  stops  to  rest  on  the  road,  as  it  may  be  necessary,  in 
any  place,  let  the  tax-gatherers  and  other  officers,  with  no  pretence, 
make  them  any  trouble  or  lay  upon  them  any  duty,  but  the  con- 
trary furnish  them  protection  and  security,  and  take  care  that  they 
go  on  their  way  in  safety  and  in  peace. 

The  authority  of  this  my  sacred  mandate,  is  in  force  from  this 
time  henceforth,  about  seven  months  ;  and  from  that  time  afterward, 
its  validity  having  ceased,  into  whosesoever  hands  it  may  fall,  let  it 
not  be  obeyed  nor  respected,  but  taking  it  from  his  hands,  send  it 
here  to  my  sublime  Porte,  to  be  thrown  into  the  depository  of  my 
annulments. 

To  this  effect  is  given  my  sublimely  glorious  mandate.  I  com- 
mand with  my  sacred  authority  that  when  this  shall  appear  before 
you,  you  do  as  it  is  required  of  you,  according  to  my  sacred  man- 
date herein  announced.  Do  ye  and  act  according  to  my  sacred 
command.    Thus  know  ye  and  give  credence  to  the  holy  seal. 

Dated  about  the  first  days  of  the  moon  (month)  Moharrem  ul 
Haran,  in  the  year  1250,  in  the  city,  Constantinople. 

At  the  capital  too  we  procured  the  following  articles  for  the  road : 
1.  A  tent,  which  is  indispensable  to  the  comfort  and  health  of  trav- 
ellers, especially  to  ladies,  in  summer,  (the  only  season  when  Eu- 
ropeans are  often  likely  to  attempt  to  travel  that  route,)  to  shield 
them  from  the  ravenous  vermin  with  which  the  native  houses  are 
all  thickly  infested.  It  also  diminishes  exposure  fo  the  plague,  by 
preventing  the  necessity  of  entering  the  villages  for  lodgings.  2. 
A  large  pair  of  Russian  leather-bags,  resembling  in  shape  the  com- 
mon saddle-bags  of  a  country  physician,  but  eight  or  ten  times  as 
large.  These,  being  proof  against  rain,  completely  preserved  our 
clothes  and  books  which  we  wished  to  keep  accessible,  from  injury 
on  the  way.  3.  Two  round  boxes  resembling  a  peck  measure, 
with  a  cover  and  divided  into  several  small  circular  compartments. 
In  one  of  these  boxes  we  carried  our  tea-set  which  consisted  of  thick 
glass  tumblers  in  the  place  of  cups  and  saucers ;  and  in  the  other, 
we  put  our  plates,  spoons,  knives  and  forks,  the  plates  being  cop- 


iVRRANGEMENT  OF  LOADS  THEIK  SIZE. 


93 


per,  but  tinned  over,  that  they  might  impart  no  poisonous  properties 
to  our  food.  4.  A  portable  kitchen,  as  the  natives  call  it,  consist- 
ing of  some  half  dozen  copper  pans,  six  or  eight  inclies  in  diameter, 
fitted  so  as  to  set  one  upon  another,  the  bottom  of  each,  ia  the  as- 
cending order,  being  a  trifle  smaller  than  the  brim  of  its  predeces- 
sor and  just  entering  il,  and  the  whole  capable  of  being  fastened  to- 
gether in  this  position  by  two  copper  side-pieces  hooked  to  the  up- 
per and  lower  pans  in  the  series.  In  this  apparatus,  we  carried  our 
butter,  cheese,  rice,  etc.  with  great  convenience.  5.  A  copper  ket- 
tle and  frying-pan,  a  gridiron,  and  a  tin  tea-pot  and  tea-kettle.  Two 
or  three  pieces  of  oil-cloth  and  as  many  small  carpet  rugs  to  spread 
in  our  tent  at  night,  completed  our  outfit  from  Constantinople. 
Our  bedding  we  had  brought  with  us  from  America.  For  chairs, 
tables  and  a  bedstead  on  our  journey  we  occasionally  arranged  our 
trunks  and  boxes,  but  oftener  sat,  ate  and  slept  flat  upon  the  ground. 
There  are  many  other  articles  of  furniture  for  the  road  kept  in  the 
bazars  at  the  Turkish  capital,  whicli  the  traveller  can  attach  to  his 
portable  establishment  or  not,  as  his  taste  or  the  state  of  his  purse 
may  dictate.  As,  however,  all  the  conveniences  of  civilized  life 
cannot  be  enjoyed,  on  a  journey  in  the  East,  it  will  generally  be 
found,  •'  that  he  that  had  gathered  much  had  nothing  over,  and  he 
that  had  gathered  little,  had  no  lack." 

I  need  not  inform  the  reader,  that  we  and  our  effects  were  trans- 
ported from  Trebizond  to  Persia  on  the  backs  of  horses,  no  wheel 
carriages  being  used  in  those  regions.  Mules  are  also  used,  in 
caravans,  and  camels  extensively, — though  less  on  the  diflicult  route 
between  Trebizond  and  Erzroom,' — and  a  donkey  or  two  usually 
follows  in  the  train,  on  which  the  muleteer  rides  or  carries  his  pro- 
visions. In  arranging  the  above  named  articles  for  the  journey, 
our  tent,  bound  up,  was  half  a  horse-load,  and  our  beds,  attached  by 
ropes,  balanced  it  on  the  opposite  side.  Upon  the  Russian  bags, 
our  servant  rode.  Our  tea  and  table-sets,  arranged  in  their  cases, 
the  portable  kitchen  and  the  cooking  utensils  were  placed  in  a  deep 
basket  covered  with  a  coarse  hair  bag ;  and  this  basket  with  a  cor- 
responding one,  covered  in  the  same  way  and  containing  our  stores 
and  dry  provisions,  formed  another  load. 

There  is  doubtless  great  misapprehension  in  Europe  and  Ameri- 
ca, in  relation  to  the  weight  and  size  of  the  loads  that  are  carried 
over  the  rough  mountains  of  Asia  Minor,  on  the  backs  of  animals. 
The  lamented  Mrs.  Grant  was  dissuaded  by  a  prudent  adviser,  from 
taking  with  her,  to  Persia,  a  small  framed  portrait  of  a  beloved  pa- 
rent—an omission  which  I  have  often  seen  her  regret  with  tears — 
because  as  everything  must  be  carried  so  many  hundred  miles  on 
the  backs  of  horses,  all  that  was  not  absolutely  indispensable  must 
be  left  behind.  But  conceive  of  the  vast  amount  of  merchandize 
that  passes  annually,  in  both  directions,  between  Europe  and  Persia, 
— a  caravan  almost  every  week  or  oftener  pouring  itself  into  some 
spacious  caravanserai  and  depositing  its  heavy  loads  in  huge  piles, 


94 


SADDLE  MAFFAS  llOUTES. 


themselves  almost  like  small  mountains, — and  this  method  of  trans- 
portation assumes  a  different  aspect.  Two  hundred  and  eighty 
pounds  is  the  maximum  load  for  a  single  horse,  which  should  be 
divided  into  two  nearly  equal  parts,  placed  in  boxes  of  almost  any 
shape, — long  narrow  ones  are  the  most  convenient.  These  are 
attached  by  ropes  and  slung,  one  on  each  side,  and  bound  to  the 
body  of  the  animal,  resting  and  riding  snugly  against  his  broad  pack- 
saddle.  The  most  portable  of  my  loads  were  my  books,  that  were 
put  up  in  cases  six  feet  long,  two  feet  high,  and  one  foot  wide.  A 
load  of  this  size  is  usually  carried  from  Trebizond  to  Persia  for  a 
sum  varying  with  the  demand  for  horses,  from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars. 
Who  then  would  deny  the  pilgrim  missionary  the  privilege  of  carry- 
ing to  his  distant  exile  the  comfort  of  a  parent's  likeness  that  might 
in  its  frame  weigh  perhaps  from  six  to  eight  ounces ! 

For  Mrs.  Perkins,  who  was  then  but  little  accustomed  to  riding 
on  horseback,  we  surmounted  a  broad  saddle  of  the  country  with  a 
frame  like  a  chair.  We  also  took  with  us  a  vehicle,  which  is  called 
in  Turkey,  the  maffas,  and  in  Persia,  the  cajavdh — to  secure  her 
from  exposure  in  wet  weather.  It  consists  of  two  boxes,  slung  one 
on  each  side  of  a  horse,  just  large  enough  to  admit  a  person  in  a 
sitting  posture.  These  are  furnished  with  light  ribs  overhead  to 
which  a  canvas  covering  is  attached.  One  person  may  ride  in  each 
box,  or  an  individual  in  one  may  be  balanced  by  a  half  load  of  some 
kind  in  the  other.  Mrs.  P.  used  this  vehicle  only  a  part  of  the  first 
day,  finding  her  position  in  it  very  confined.  We  afterwards  filled 
both  sides  with  our  effects  which  we  had  accasion  to  use  on  the 
road.  On  our  return,  being  much  accustomed  to  riding,  she  pre- 
ferred the  American  side-saddle  to  the  broad  saddle  of  the  country 
even,  which  had  served  her  so  well  on  our  way  to  Persia. 

From  Trebizond  to  Erzroom — or  rather,  to  Baiboot,  a  town  a 
little  more  than  midway, — there  are  three  distinct  routes.'  The  win- 
ter, or  western  route,  leads  by  Giimiish-khanah.  It  is  the  longest 
of  the  three ;  but  winding  its  tortoise-way  through  deep  narrow  val- 
leys and  ravines,  it  is  nowhere  so  high  as  to  be  wholly  impassible  in  the 
depth  of  winter  ;  and  this  is  usually  the  only  route  that  can  be  trav- 
elled in  that  season.  The,  second  or  middle  route  is  considerably 
shorter,  but  is  more  mountainous  and  difficult.  It  leads  by  the  vil- 
lage of  Madden ;  and  is  the  one  most  travelled  by  couriers  and  ex- 
tensively by  caravans,  in  summer.  The  third,  or  eastern  road,  is  at 
least  a  day  shorter  than  the  middle  one,  but  is  more  rough,  and  un- 
'til  within  a  few  years,  was  frightfully  beset  by  hordes  of  the  maraud- 
ing Laz.  It  leads  by  the  village  of  Chailer.  This  road  is  now  com- 
monly travelled  by  Turkish  muleteers  in  summer;  -while  Persians  and 
their  horses,  less  accustomed  to  climbing  the  frightfiil  precipices  of 
ancient  Pontus,  still  prefer  the  longer  routes.  We  chose  the  middle 
one,  as  the  shortest,  even  at  that  late  season,  was  said  to  be  still  en- 
cumbered with  vast  quantities  of  snow. 

It  was  not  until  June  10th  that  we  and  our  muleteer,  who  was  a 


LEAVING  TREBIZOND  RUBAX  SCENERT. 


95 


Turk,  were  ready  to  start  for  Erzroom.  We  sent  along  our  boxes 
in  the  morning;  but  it  being  rainy,  remained  ourselves,  hoping  for 
fair  weather,  until  afternoon.  Our  company  consisted  of  Mrs.  P. 
and  myself,  Takvoor  and  an  Armenian  tailor  whom  Mr.  Sutor  had 
procured  to  act  as  our  servant  as  far  as  Erzroom, — besides  our  mule- 
teer and  his  companions,  belonging  to  the  caravan.  The  rain  ceas- 
ing a  little  we  took  leave  of  the  gentleman  of  the  European  consu- 
lates at  Trebizond  about  1  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  expecting  to 
meet  with  no  more  society  except  the  barbarians  of  the  country,  dur- 
ing our  long  journey.  The  length,  roughness  and  solitariness  of  the 
way, — a  distance  of  near  seven  hundred  miles  and  over  almost  im- 
passible mountains, — the  perils  from  tribes  of  robbers  with  which 
the  road  is  usually  more  or  less  infested,  and  the  frightful  pestilence 
which  often  curdles  tlie  atmosphere  of  those  regions  in  summer,  all 
stared  us  in  the  face  and  challenged  our  faith  and  our  courage;  but 
we  believed  that  as  our  day,  so  would  also  be  our  strength,  and  re- 
joiced to  go  forward. 

As  we  passed  out  through  the  city,  we  seemed  greatly  to  astonish 
the  natives,  who  thronged  the  streets  in  large  numbers  to  gaze  for 
the  first  time  upon  a  lady  from  "  the  West."  We  ascended  the  lofty 
Bas  Tapa  by  a  steep  rocky  zigzag  path  which  was  partially  paved 
and  cut  from  the  rocks  into  stairs;  and  as  we  reached  the  top,  the 
clouds  dispersed,  and  the  Black  Sea,  the  city  and  surrounding  coun- 
try spread  out  a  scene  of  almost  unequalled  beauty  and  grandeur. 
We  could  not  forbear  to  "  look  back"  and  feast  our  eyes  on  such  a 
scene, — particularly  as  they  were  sadly  reluctant  to  take  their  last 
look  of  vessels  and  seas.  Passing  across  the  Bas  Tapa  and  a  lower 
ridge  beyond,  we  descended  into  the  deep  naiTow  valley  of  Trebi- 
zond River — called  Mill  River — by  a  rocky  difficult  pass,  similar 
to  that  by  which  we  rose  from  the  city.  We  followed  up  this  valley 
in  a  south-east  direction,  through  a  constant  succession  of  the  rarest 
charms  of  rural  loveliness.  Mountains  rise  high  on  either  side  ;  small 
but  beautiful  fields  lie  along  their  declivities,  stretching  up  almost 
to  their  tops  and  extending  down  to  the  river's  edge,  except  where 
they  are  interrupted  by  steep  precipices,  that  leave  scarcely  a  single 
parapet  for  the  passing  traveller  and  caravan,  while  the  neat  shin- 
gled cottages  of  "the  dwellers  among  the  rocks"  hang  romantically 
along  the  upper  cliffs  or  are  perched  on  the  brink  of  the  stream  be- 
low. The  inhabitants  of  this  and  the  neighboring  valleys  are  Laz 
and  Greeks  who  live  together  in  tolerable  harmony,  the  nominal 
Christians  not  differing  much  from  their  compatriots  of  a  different 
faith,  in  point  of  rudeness  and  barbarism.  The  articles  most  culti- 
vated by  them  .are  hemp  and  Indian  corn. 

About  ten  miles  above  the  city  a  bridge  crosses  the  river,  and  the 
road,  by  Chailer — the  shortest  route — leads  up  a  valley  from  the 
eastern  shore.  On  the  over-hanging  pinnacle  of  the  bold  ridge,  that 
separates  that  valley  from  the  one  we  followed  stands  an  old  castle, 
monarch  of  the  hill,  which  is  the  residence  of  one  of  the  valley-lords, 


96 


SCRIPTURE  ILLUSTRATIONS  TENT. 


(as  they  are  called,)  who  have  formerly  headed  their  wild  tribes  in 
a  plundering  mode  of  life,  but  now  quietly  govern  them  under  their 
wholesome  subjection  to  Osman  Pasha. 

Our  Turkish  companions  of  the  caravan  passed  cheerfully  along, 
occasionally  breaking  the  monotony  of  "  the  bells  on  the  horses,"  by 
singing  a  traveller's  song  or  entertaining  each  other  with  marvellous 
narrations.  How  novel  to  our  eyes  and  our  ears  were  the  scenes 
and  the  sounds  of  that  afternoon,  which  have  ever  since  been  as  fa- 
miliar as  the  sight  of  carriages,  the  sound  of  rattling  wheels,  the 
notes  of  the  stage-coach  horn,  or  the  whistle  of  the  rail-road  car  to 
our  friends  in  America.  Among  the  Scripture  allusions  of  which 
every  incident  and  almost  every  step  seemed  a  vivid  illustration,  none 
struck  me  more  delightfully  than  the  promise  of  a  day  approaching, 
when  "  holiness  to  the  Lord  shall  be  written  on  the  bells  of  the. 
horses,"  for  we  had  the  grateful  consciousness,  that  to  hasten  such 
a  period  was  the  object  of  our  undertaking. 

Just  before  night,  it  again  commenced  raining  ;  and  we  had  start- 
ed so  late  in  the  day, — our  progress  also  being  much  retarded  by 
the  muddy  state  of  the  road  in  consequence  of  the  rain, — that  to 
reach  our  stopping-place  we  were  obliged  to  ride  some  time  in  the 
evening.  In  darkness,  rain  and  mud,  we  climbed  precipices  and 
again  descended  them,  on  the  very  brink  of  the  river,  until  we  were 
heartily  glad  to  find  a  resting  place  and  a  shelter,  even  under  a  tent. 

We  reached  Javislik,  a  village  six  hours*  (about  twenty  miles) 
from  Trebizond,  near  9  o'clock  in  the  evening.  Takvoor  and  our 
muleteer  had  preceded  us,  a  few  minutes,  and  were  erecting  our 
tent  near  the  village,  on  the  river  bank,  when  we  arrived.  Unfor- 
tunately, from  haste,  darkness  or  ignorance,  they  had  put  it  up  inside 
out  and  were  obliged  to  take  it  down  again.  This  mistake  cor- 
rected,  after  a  little  time  we  procured  a  light,  and  spread  down  our 
oil-cloth  and  rugs,  to  shield  us  from  the  wet  ground. 

Meanwhile  our  servant  procured  a  little  fuel,  made  a  fire  at  our 
tent  door  and  prepared  some  tea  which  we  drank  and  retired  with 
thankful  hearts  to  rest.  The  roaring  of  the  stream  within  a  few  feet 
of  us,  and  the  patting  of  the  rain  on  our  tent  soon  lulled  us  to  sleep ; 
and  our  slumbers  were  kept  from  molestation,  from  the  intrusions  of 
curiosity  or  hostile  intentions,  by  a  guard  of  three  armed  men,  sent  to 
us  unasked  by  a  valley-lord,  the  aga  (chief  man)  of  the  district.  And 
we  had  the  joyful  consciousness  of  yet  greater  security,  though  de- 
fenceless wanderers,  in  strange  benighted  climes,  and  sleeping  in  a 
tent  by  night,  under  the  protection  of  that  divine  Keeper,  who  took 
care  of  Abraham,  Isaac,  Jacob  and  Joseph  in  their  wanderings,  in 
foreign  and  hostile  lands,  and  has  given  to  all  his  disciples  the  com- 
forting assurance,  "  Lo,  I  am  with  you  alway,  even  to  the  end  of  the 
world." 


*  The  rate  of  travelling,  by  caravans,  is  about  two  and  three-fourths,  or 
three,  miles  an  hour;  and  distance  is  reckoned  by  hours. 


YOGOORD  POISONOUS  HONEY. 


97 


June  11.  Daylight  revealed  to  us  Javislik,  which  consists  of 
about  twenty  rude  houses.  The  valley-lord  had  an  imposing  situa- 
tion in  another  castle,  on  the  summit  of  an  over-hanging  mountain. 
I  sent  Takvoor  into  the  village  for  eggs,  but  he  returned  saying 
"  there  are  none  I  then  sent  him  for  meat,  but  he  could  find  none, 
being  told  that  it  was  too  late  in  the  season.  I  sent  him  a  third 
time  for  milk,  but  his  answer  was  still,  "  there  is  none:  it  is  all 
made  into  yogoord.'"*  "  What  is  there  to  eat,"  I  inquired ;  "  why, 
nothing  but  yogoord."  Not  having  learned  to  appreciate  this  ori- 
ental dish,  we  directed  our  servant  to  spread  before  us  dry  food, 
from  the  provisions  we  had  with  us,  from  which  we  made  a  comfort- 
able repast,  and  started  again  about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
The  weather  was  cloudy  and  very  damp,  though  it  did  not  ram. 
Crossing,  by  an  arched  stone  bridge,  a  considerable  tributary  of  the 
Trebizond  river  which  joins  the  main  stream  from  the  east  at 
Javislik,  our  road  still  lay  in  a  south-east  direction.  A  few  rods 
beyond  the  village  we  left  the  western  route  (the  one  leading  by 
Giimiish-khanah),  which  still  follows  up  the  valley  along  the  bank  of 
the  river,  and  rose  gradually  on  the  side  of  a  mountain,  leaving 
beautiful  fields  on  the  declivities  below.  As  we  advanced,  we  at 
length  found  ourselves  enveloped  in  dense  clouds,  and  thus  pro- 
ceeded, until  we  came  upon  the  top  of  a  narrow  ridge,  with  almost 
unfathomable  profundities  on  either  hand,  which  were  now  and 
then  imperfectly  revealed,  as  the  clouds  were  partially  drifen  away 
by  the  wind.  We  followed  this  ridge  some  distance,  while  it  grad- 
ually widened  into  a  mountain  top,  clothed  with  a  thick  growth  of 
heavy  timber.  The  lofty  beech  and  cedar  were  predominant;  and 
one  of  the  most  common  bushes  of  the  under  growth  was  that  from 
whose  flowers  then  in  blossom  the  honey  is  extracted,  mentioned 
by  Xenophon  as  poisoning  some  of  his  troops.  It  is  a  bush  resem- 
bling that  in  America  which  bears  a  watery  excrescence,  about  as 
large  as  an  apple,  much  sought  in  spring  by  children,  and  usually 
called,  honey  suckle.  The  latter  bush  also  grows  there  abundantly, 
and  the  only  difference  between  the  two  is,  that  the  one  from  which 
the  poisonous  honey  is  extracted  has  a  yelloio  blossom,  while  that  of 
the  other  is  a  pale  red.  'Alps  still  o'er  Alps  arose,'  which  we 
climbed  by  rough,  narrow  and  often  zigzag  passes,  to  almost  inter- 
minable heights,  until  we  found  ourselves  shivering  in  a  climate 
entirely  different  from  the  one  in  which  we  had  started  in  the  morn- 
ing. We  were  compelled  to  put  on  additional  cloaks  and  were  still 
very  cold.    Dense  clouds,  on  all  sides,  prevented  our  enjoying  the 


*  Curdled  milk — one  of  the  most  common  and  favorite  dishes  in  the  East. 
It  is  usually  prepared  early  in  the  morning.  Curdled  milk  gives  an  imper- 
fect idea  of  this  article  ;  and  yet  I  know  of  no  better  term  to  express  it.  It  is 
prepared  from  sweet  milk,  artificially  "  iiyrnerf"'  by  throwing  into  it  a  small 
quantity  of  the  yogoord  already  on  hand.  It  is  not  only  esteemed  by  the 
nomade  classes,  but  by  all  ranks  in  the  East,  and  scaicely  less  by  Europeans 
after  becoming  accustomed  to  it. 

13 


98 


ELEVATED  SITUATION  SUBLIME  SCENES. 


extended  surveys,  as  we  rode  along,  which  we  were  sure  our  im- 
mense elevation  must  command.  We  reached  Karakapan,  five 
hours,  (about  fifteen  miles,)  fi-om  Javislik,  at  one  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon.  Caravans  always  travel  slow,  not  ordinarily  more  than 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  per  day.  This  village  is  nearly  5,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  Black  sea,  and  indeed  of  the  village  which 
we  left  that  morning.  It  consists  of  only  five  or  six  rude  nuts,  oc- 
cupied mainly  for  the  accommodation  of  travellers  and  caravans. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  clouds  cleared  away  and  open- 
ed to  us  scenes  of  inconceivable  sublimity.  We  found  ourselves 
near  the  top  of  this  lofty  mountain,  where  we  had  scarcely  been 
able  to  find  a  spot  level  enough  on  which  to  pitch  our  tent,  surround- 
ed by  alternate  deep  gulfs  and  lofty  snow-capped  summits.  Seve- 
ral large  drifts  of  snow  lay  sparkling  within  a  few  feet  of  our  tent. 
The  mountain  sides  and  valleys  below  were  still  buried  in  thick 
clouds,  driven  furiously  about  by  the  winds.  As  the  clouds  cleared 
away  more  and  more,  the  waters  of  the  Black  Sea  at  length  appear- 
ed in  the  distant  horizon,  and  the  countless  cottages  of  the  Laz  and 
Greek  peasants  lay  sprinkled  like  birds'  nests,  in  the  open  fields  and 
even  among  the  trees  of  the  forests,  all  along  the  declivities  far  up 
the  sides  of  the  mountains.  We  were  charmed  with  the  smilins: 
beauties  and  overwhelmed  with  the  awful  grandeur  of  the  wild 
romantic  views  that  stretched  away  in  every  direction,  and  never 
before  were  our  minds  more  deeply  impressed  with  the  greatness 
and  glory  of  Him,  "  who  hath  measured  the  waters  in  the  hollow  of 
his  hand,  and  meted  out  heaven  with  the  span,  and  comprehended 
the  dust  of  the  earth  in  a  measure,  and  weighed  the  mountains  in 
scales  and  the  hills  in  a  balance." 

Just  before  evening,  a  shepherd  passed  along  with  his  flock,  which 
he  had  been  pasturing  upon  green  patches,  on  the  sunny  sides  of  the 
mountains.  He  milked  one  of  his  goats  for  us,  and  thus  were  we 
furnished  with  a  luxury  which  we  had  little  anticipated,  at  that  vast 
elevation.  The  ground  was  wet  and  the  weather  chilly,  and  as  the 
sun  sank  down  behind  the  mountains,  we  became  very  cold.  We 
had  little  anticipated  such  a  temperature,  in  mid-summer,  even  on 
the  mountains  of  Asia  Minor." 

June  12.  The  morning  was  fair  and  delightful,  but  the  weather 
very  cold.  We  were  early  on  our  way  which  immediately  led  up 
several  more  frightful  precipices,  and  was  so  narrow  and  difficult  in 
many  places  that  we  should  have  been  almost  afraid  to  trust  our- 
selves to  our  own  feet.  A  single  misstep  might  have  plunged  us 
many  hundreds  of  feet  down  the  rocky  depths  below.  The  caravan 
horses  of  those  regions  become  so  accustomed  to  such  roads  as  to 
be  able  to  make  their  way  up  and  down  steep  precipices  with  sur- 
prising facility;  and  the  traveller  soon  learns  that  it  is  far  safer  to 
commit  himself  to  the  skill  and  care  of  the  cautious  animal  he  rides, 
than  to  attempt  to  rein  him,  or  even  dismount  and  thread  his  way 
on  foot.    Ascending  those  precipices,  we  were  placed  on  one  of  the 


LEAD  MINES  KKOOMLEE. 


99 


highest  elevations  on  our  route  to  Persia.  Our  way  then  led  over 
a  lofty  table-land,  still  in  a  south-east  direction.  We  passed  over 
snow  a  considerable  part  of  the  day,  and  the  bright  reflection  of  the 
sun's  rays  from  it  was  very  trying  to  our  eyes.  Not  a  tree  or  shrub 
was  anywhere  to  be  seen.  I  inquired  of  our  muleteer  when  we 
should  again  meet  with  forests.  "  Not  for  many  hundreds  of  miles  ; 
at  least  not  in  Turkey;  1  have  never  travelled  in  Persia;"  was  his 
reply,  and  the  result  verified  his  statement.  Lofty  mountains,  en- 
tirely naked,  except  the  white  mantle  from  the  skies  on  their  sum- 
mits, and  here  and  there  verdant  patches  of  grass  on  their  suimy 
sides,  covered  with  grazing  flocks,  were  the  only  varieties  of  scene- 
ry presented  to  our  view.  And  the  dark  blue  reflections  of  light, 
fleecy  clouds,  quivering  through  the  atmosphere,  no  less.. than  the 
chilling  blasts,  reminded  us  ofour  immense  height. 

Finding  a  small  spot  of  grass,  about  mid-day,  the  muleteer  stop- 
ped two  hours  to  bait  his  horses ;  and  we,  not  wishing  to  take  the 
trouble  to  pitch  our  tent  for  so  short  a  time,  erected  an  awning  with 
our  oil-cloth,  under  which  we  sat  down  and  partook  of  a  dry  colla- 
tion on  the  ground.  We  travelled  about  five  hours  to-day,  which 
brought  us  to  Madden,  i.  e.  the  Mines.  It  is  a  mining  village  as 
its  name  imports,  which  consists  of  about  a  dozen  rude  stone  huts, 
with  flat  roofs  covered  over  with  earth,  situated  on  the  southern  de- 
clivity of  a  mountc^in,  occupied  only  in  summer,  and  then  merely 
for  the  purpose  of  working  the  lead  mines.  Its  inhabitants  are  princi- 
pally Greeks  who  are  the  miners.  They  belong  to  the  village  of 
Kroom,  situated  in  a  deep  glen,  about  two  miles  below  the  mining 
hamlet.  Kroom  is  the  original  seat  of  the  singular  class,  now  rather 
numerous  in  that  region,  known  by  the  title,  Kroomlee,  i.  e.  citi- 
zens of  Kroom,  who  are  Muhammedans  by  profession,  but  Greek 
Christians  in  reality.  This  class,  as  a  body,  would  of  course  open- 
ly profess  Christianity  were  the  the  terror  of  Muhammedan  law  to 
be  removed.  And  it  is  supposed  that  the  mass  of  the  Mussulmans, 
in  the  pashalik  of  Trebizond,  are  descended  from  Greeks,  whose  re- 
conversion to  the  religion  of  their  ancestors  would  doubtless  quick- 
ly follow  the  transfer  of  the  government  from  Moslem  to  christian 
hands. 

June  13.  The  direct  road  from  Midden  to  Baiboot  leads  in  a 
more  easterly  direction  than  we  now  followed,  passing  through  the 
villages  of  Vazernah  and  Balhoor  ;  our  muleteer  took  us  on  a  more 
southern  route,  for  the  sake  of  visiting  his  native  village.  We 
saw  more  of  life  and  vegetation  to-day  than  we  had  the  day  pre- 
vious. The  table-land  was  succeeded  by  lofty  peaks  and  ridges 
and  deep  intervening  glens,  which,  alternately  rising  and  sinking, 
converge  the  sun's  rays  in  the  deep  chasms  at  the  bottom,  and 
create  there  a  sufficient  degree  of  warmth  to  support  vegetation 
and  sustain  small  villages.  These  villages,  seen  from  the  snowy 
barren  desolations  above,  spread  out  a  miniature  paradise  most 
grateful  to  the  eye  of  the  traveller.    Toward  the  close  of  our  ride, 


100 


DANGER  APPREHENDED  A  PRECIPICE. 


less  snow  appeared ;  but  the  mountains,  instead  of  presenting  a 
move  inviting  aspect,  were  still  more  absolute  personifications  of 
sterility, —  bald,  dreary  masses,  with  scarcely  a  sign  of  vegetation  in 
sight,  except  in  the  bottom  of  the  deep  glens  below.  We  passed 
near  no  village,  and  after  travelling  again  five  hours  encamped  for 
the  night  high  up  the  side  of  a  mountain.  For  fuel  to  cook  our  tea, 
we  could  find  nothing  but  a  few  dry  weeds,  the  growth  of  a  later 
season  of  the  previous  year.  We  passed  another  cold  night,  though 
less  so  than  the  preceding. 

June  14*  Early  in  the  morning,  I  overheard  Takvoor  and  the 
muleteer  holding  a  mutual  condolence  on  the  perils  which  they  fan- 
cied they  had  encountered  during  the  night.  The  muleteer  gravely 
stated  that  he  and  his  companions  had  not  slept  a  moment,  for  fear 
of  robbers,  and  that  several  armed  men  had  actually  approached 
them,  evidently  with  hostile  intentions,  but  finding  themselves  out- 
numbered, they  quietly  retired.  Takvoor  in  turn,  stated  that  he 
also  had  slept  very  little,  as  the  muleteer  and  his  associates  passed 
the  night  a  considerable  distance  from  our  tent,  watching  their 
horses.  The  people  of  these  regions  pass  life  literally  in  "  fear  and 
trembling."  The  day-laborer  goes  to  his  work  in  the  field  armed 
with  a  dagger  or  musket,  and  perhaps  with  both.  Our  Turkish 
companions  of  the  caravan  and  Takvoor  and  the  servant  were  all 
thus  armed,  and  still  went  halting  along.  My  only  weapon  was  an 
old  pair  of  holsters,  with  a  telescope  in  one  and  a  rolling  portfolio 
in  the  other,  to  which  I  often  pointed  them,  to  dissipate  their  appre- 
hensions ;  but  they  as  often  gravely  retorted  the  adage,  "  those  that 
know  nothing, yi'ar  nothing,"  which  may  have  been  too  justly  appli- 
ed in  my  case ;  for  the  wild  marauding  Laz  had  then  but  lightly 
felt  the  rigorous  arm  of  Osman  Pasha. 

Our  course,  to-day,  lay  to  the  south,  and  toward  the  close  of  it, 
south  by  west;  and  it  led  down  the  longest  and  by  far  the  steepest 
and  most  difficult  precipice  which  we  ejicountered  on  our  journey. 
It  was  between  two  and  three  miles  in  length,  as  steep  as  the  com- 
mon roof  of  a  house, — and  descended  only  by  a  rough,  stony,  zigzag 
foot-path.  Mrs.  P.  had  now  become  able  to  ride  along  the  side  and 
up  such  precipices  with  a  tolerable  degree  of  composure,  but  to  ride 
down  them  was  still  frightTul.  She  was  obliged,  in  this  instance, 
not  only  to  have  her  horse  led  by  one  muleteer  (which  was  done 
most  of  the  way  from  Trebizond  to  Erzroom,)  but  her  saddle  also 
held  upon  the  horse,  by  another. 

At  the  foot  of  this  precipice  is  situated  the  Greek  village  of  Ar- 
moot,  (the  pear).  A  beautiful  rivulet  runs  .through  the  village, 
and  rows  of  poplars  growing  thickly  on  its  banks,  and  a  few  apple 
trees  perched  along  the  ledges  above,  presented  a  very  grateful  con- 
trast to  the  dreary  sterility  which  only  we  had  met  with,  for  so  long 
a  distance  before.  Our  muleteer  and  his  comrades  belonged  in  the 
village  of  Tekeh,  which  is  about  six  miles  from  Armoot.  They 
travelled  on  with  light  hearts  from  the  near  prospect  of  reaching 


TEKEH'  SUMIWONS  TO  PRAYERS. 


101 


their  home.  They  had  been  extolling  its  charms  and  enumerating 
the  dainties  it  afforded,  all  the  way  from  Trebizond;  and  they  were 
much  delighted  when  I  told  them  I  should  like  to  stop  there  a  day, 
in  case  we  should  reach  the  place  on  Saturday;  and  they  planned 
their  stages  accordingly. 

Tekeh  is  the  same  name  with  the  ancient  Teches,  or  Tesqua, 
the  mountain  from  whose  summit  Xenophon  and  his  enraptured 
troops  caught  their  first  glimpse  of  the  Black  Sea.  I  was  unable, 
however,  to  obtain  a  view  of  tlie  Euxine,  on  any  summit  we  crossed 
within  ten  or  twelve  miles  distance  of  this  village.  It  is  prettily 
situated  in  a  beautiful  rural  glen,  at  the  junction  of  the  brook  above 
mentioned  with  a  considerable  stream  which  runs  to  the  north-west. 
It  consists  of  about  fifty  rude  huts,  half  under  ground,  and  covered 
over  with  earth.  Poplars  and  willows  thickly  stud  the  streams — small 
verdant  meadows  and  fields  of  wheat  lay  along  the  shores,  and  or- 
chards of  apple  and  apricot  trees,  (the  latter  I  saw  here  for  the 
first  time  in  my  life,)  cover  some  of  the  elevations  above.  We 
pitched  our  tent  near  the  village  in  one  of  those  orchards,  on  the 
green  carpet  of  nature,  a  few  yards  from  a  murmuring  rill.  Seve- 
ral young  calves  were  feeding,  and  playfully  gamboling  around  us, 
the  trees  shielded  us  from  the  concentrated  heat  of  the  sun,  and 
birds  in  their  branches  entertained  us  with  their  sweet  voices.  We 
felt  under  peculiar  obligations  to  the  kind  Hand  that  had  led  us  over 
the  dreary  heights  of  the  previous  way,  and  brought  us  to  that 
charming  spot,  just  in  time  to  rest  there  on  the  holy  Sabbath. 

Soon  after  our  arrival,  our  muleteer  kindly  brought  us  kimdk, 
(the  cream  of  scalded  milk,)  eggs  and  yogoord,  which  he  presented 
as  specimens  of  the  luxuries  of  his  native  village.  About  sunset,  I 
ascended  a  high  craggy  rock,  a  few  yards  from  our  tent,  which 
overlooks  the  village.  I  had  been  there  but  a  few  minutes  when 
an  old  Turk  came  up  after  me.  I  saluted  him  ;  and  he,  looking 
earnestly  at  me,  as  an  intruder,  reluctantly  reciprocated  the  saluta- 
tion, turned  his  back  upon  me,  and,  with  a  voice  like  a  Stentor,  be- 
gan to  summon  the  villagers  to  evening  prayers.*  This  was  my 
first  intimation  that  I  was  standing  on  the  minaret  of  Tekeh,  and  I 
felt  myself  to  be  in  a  somewhat  awkward  predicament,  a  Protestant 
missionary  perched  by  the  side  of  a  Mahammedan  imam,  while  he 
called  his  flock  to  the  devotions  of  the  False  Prophet. 

Many  of  the  men  belonging  to  Tekeh,  are  engaged  with  their 
horses  in  caravans.  The  common  caravan-system  is,  for  a  few  in- 
dividuals (six  or  eight)  to  club  together  and  appoint  their  wealth- 
iest, oldest  or  wisest  comrade  to  act  as  the  principal  muleteer,  who 
becomes  responsible  to  government  for  the  proceedings  of  the  com- 

*  Mahammedans  are  thus  publicly  called  to  their  devotions  at  dawn,  mid- 
day and  sunset.  And  the  Kordn  enjoins  several  times  more.  Erzrdom  is 
the  only  plnce  where  I  remember  to  have  observed  10  o'clock,  A.  M.  and  4 
P.  M.  to  be  regularly  added  in  practice  to  this  list. 


102 


ORGANIZATION  OF  CARAVANS. 


pany,  on  receiving  a  license  for  the  undertaking  ;  and  under  his  or- 
ders the  rest  are  bound  to  act,  during  the  period  of  contract,  each 
furnishing  the  number  of  horses  which  he  is  able  to  own,  and  reap- 
ing a  corresponding  share  of  the  profits  realized.  In  case  an  indi- 
vidual owns  more  horses  than  his  family  will  furnish  with  drivers, 
he  hires  men  by  the  year  or  month  to  assist  him.  The  muleteer, 
as  a  perquisite  for  his  office  and  responsibilities,  enjoys  their  trou- 
blesome though  by  no  means  unprized  honors,  and  the  additional 
privilege  of  riding  a  partially  loaded  horse,  while  his  companions 
are  expected  to  travel  on  foot.  From  twenty  to  fifty  or  one  hun- 
tired  horses,  owned  and  driven  by  a  man  to  about  every  five  or  ten, 
are  usually  thus  clustered  together ;  and  such  caravans  again  often 
unite,  especially  in  passing  over  dangerous  sections  of  country,  or 
when  employed  by  the  same  merchant,  to  the  number  of  500  or 
800,  or  even  1000  horses.  The  monotonous,  though  cheerful  notes 
of  their  bells — every  fifth  or  sixth  horse,  the  leader  of  the  group, 
being  honored  with  a  string — and  the  stateliness  of  their  gait,  as 
they  wend  their  patient  way,  under  their  huge  burdens,  stretch- 
ing away  in  a  single  file  over  hills  and  through  valleys,  sometimes 
for  miles  in  extent,  present  a  truly  imposing  and  grateful  scene, — a 
scene  that  has  often  impressed  my  own  mind  far  more  forcibly  with 
the  "sublimity  of  commerce,"  than  the  forests  of  spars  in  a  great 
and  busy  harbor,  or  the  long  string  of  freight-cars  on  our  rail-roads. 

June  15.  After  descending  the  long  precipice,  the  day  previous, 
we  were  particularly  comfortable,  in  finding  ourselves  again  in  a 
temperate,  climate.  About  7  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  shepherds 
drove  away  their  flocks  to  graze  on  the  neighboring  mountains. 
Some  of  the  women,  in  the  absence  of  their  fathers  and  brothers 
who  are  engaged  in  caravans,  keep  the  flocks,  and  even  till  the 
fields  and  gardens.  Everything  reminded  us  vivedly  of  ancient 
times.  Over  these  same  mountains  and  through  these  same  val- 
leys, soon  after  the  flood,  shepherds  drove  their  flocks,  and  shep- 
herds have  been  the  inhabitants  of  these  regions  ever  since.  Would 
that  their  characters  were  as  artless  and  their  lives  as  unspotted,  as 
their  habits  and  occupations  are  simple  and  primitive.  But  far 
otherwise.  It  needed  not  an  hour's  acquaintance  and  observation 
to  convince  us  that  in  the  impressive  language  of  Scripture,  "  they 
are  all  gone  out  of  the  way,  they  are  together  become  unprofitable: 
there  is  none  that  doeth  good,  no,  not  one ;  their  throat  is  an  open 
sepulchre;  with  their  tongue  they  have  used  deceit;  the  poison  of 
asps  is  under  their  lips  ;  whose  mouth  is  full  of  cursing  and  bitter- 
ness ;  their  feet  are  swift  to  shed  blood  ;  destruction  and  misery  are 
in  their  ways ;  and  the  way  of  peace  they  have  not  known  ;  there 
is  no  fear  of  God  before  their  eyes."  And  while  we  sat  quietly  in 
our  tent  reading  our  Bibles  and  enjoying  the  influences  of  our  lit- 
tle sanctuary,  our  hearts  bled,  in  view  of  the  deep  moral  night  that 
enshrouded  the  poor  beings  who  surrounded  us.  They  knew  no- 
thing of  the  blessings  of  the  holy  Sabbath,  nor  of  the  only  way  of 


CURIOSITY  OF  THE  NATIVES  BOADS. 


103 


deliverance  from  the  love,  the  power  and  the  fearful  consequences 
of  their  sins.  When  v^iil  the  day-star  from  on  high  shine  upon 
them  1  In  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  a  few  women  came  around 
our  tent — felt  of  it — and  peeped  through  the  cracks,  to  see  Mrs. 
Perkins.  Our  muleteer  also  brought  us  a  present  of  milk,  for  which 
I  gave  him,  in  return,  a  phosphorus  match  box.  He  had  never 
seen  the  like  before  and  was  greatly  delighted  with  it,  repeatedly 
exclaiming,  wonderful,  wonderful !  His  wife  soon  came  and  asked 
for  sugar,  justifying  her  request  on  the  ground  that  he)-  husband 
was  our  Tnuleieer.  And  just  before  evening,  throngs  of  women  and 
children,  barefooted  and  half  naked,  came  and  sat  down  around 
our  tent,  and  gazed  upon  Mrs.  P.  with  as  eager  curiosity  as  that  of 
a  child  gazing,  for  the  first  time,  upon  an  elephant.  They  at  lenath 
became  social  and  seemed  desirous  to  make  our  acquaintance.  We 
inquired  whether  they  had  a  school  in  the  village.  "  A  small  one," 
they  replied.  For  boi/s,  or  girls,  we  asked;  "  for  boi/s,  of  course,^' 
they  replied.  And  why  not  for  girls  also,  we  continued;  "it  is  not 
the  custom,^'  they  answered.  Takvoor  told  them  that  Mrs.  P.  could 
read  and  write.  "  Yes,  "replied  the  wife  of  the  muleteer,  "  my  hus- 
band says  he  has  seen  her  read  and  write  on  horseback.  They  all 
seemed  astounded  with  the  declaration,  and  never  before  to  have 
conceived  the  idea  of  a  woman's  learning  to  read. 

June  16.  Our  muleteer  called  at  our  tent  last  evening  and  pro- 
posed that  we  should  start  early  and  stop  a  while,  after  two  or  three 
hours'  ride.  We  accordingly  arose  at  day-break,  hastily  prepared 
and  drank  a  little  coffee,  and  proceeded,  anticipating  a  breakfast 
about  8  or  9  o'clock.  But  the  weather  being  cool  for  travelling, 
Sedadin,  (that  was  the  muleteer's  name,)  drove  on,  notwithstanding 
my  remonstrances,  until  1  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  This  was  not 
the  first  nor  the  last  instance  of  his  duplicity,  though  he  was  re- 
garded as  an  honest  man  for  a  Turk,  and  on  the  whole  treated  us 
very  well. 

At  Tekeh  we  come  upon  the  post-road,  leading  by  Giimush- 
khanah;  and  the  country  was  afterward  much  more  level  and  plea- 
sant than  the  sections  over  which  we  had  before  travelled.  Our 
general  direction  changed  there,  from  south  by  east,  to  nearly  east, 
leading  directly  towards  Erzroom.  The  road  was  very  good.  When 
we  speak  o( roads,  in  those  regions,  we  may  however  be  misunder- 
stood. The  reader,  instead  of  the  carriage  roads  of  civilized  lands, 
must  picture  to  himself  a  single/bo/^Q^/t  winding  among  the  rocks, 
or  where  the  country  is  not  quite  so  rough,  five,  ten,  fifteen  or  twen- 
ty such  paths,  runping  parallel  within  a  few  feet  of  each  other,  like 
the  paths  often  seen  on  the  side-hills  of  a  sheep-pasture.  The  roads 
in  the  interior  of  Turkey  are  seldom  worked  or  repaired  beyond 
what  the  great  amount  of  travel  naturally  tends  to  smooth  and  im- 
prove them,  and  the  same  is  the  case  in  Persia. 

Our  road  was  most  of  the  way  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  which 
we  occasionally  crossed  and  re-crossed  by  arched  stone  bridges. 


104 


REPUTATION  OF  AMERICANS. 


Willows  and  poplars  thickly  studded  the  margin  of  the  stream,  and 
many  American  flowers  were  smiling  among  them  in  native  loveli- 
ness. The  peony  in  particular,  arrested  our  attention,  blooming 
wildly  in  all  the  crimson  gaudiness  in  which  it  dazzles  in  cultivated 
gardens.  The  Turks  too  were  attracted  by  the  flowers  and  gave 
us  an  illustration  of  the  refinement  of  their  taste,  by  collecting  large 
bunches  of  them  with  which  they  thickly  studded  their  dirty  turbans. 
The  brilliant  smiling  flowers,  encircling  their  sombre  brows  and 
tawny  necks  and  faces,  presented  a  contrast  almost  as  vivid  as  the 
delicate  tints  of  the  bright  rainbow  imprinted  on  the  waning  folds  of 
dark  retiring  thunder  clouds. 

We  travelled  six  hours  and  encamped  a  mile  before  reaching 
the  village  of  Cherchee,  which  contains  about  fifty  Turkish  fa- 
milies. Toward  the  close  of  our  ride  we  left  the  stream  and  gradu- 
ally rose  until  we  came  again  into  the  region  of  snow.  There,  how- 
ever, it  was  rapidly  melting  and  the  pastures  were  becoming  green. 
When  I  sent  our  servant  to  the  village  for  milk,  the  villagers  called 
out  to  him,  as  he  approached  and  made  his  request,  "no,  you  have 
come  herewith  Moscov,  (Russian,)  go  off."  But  when  he  told  them 
that  I  was  an  American  gentlemav,  they  all  exclaimed  "  you  are  very 
welcome ;"  and  an  old  shepherd  gave  him  a  gallon  of  milk  for  a 
fourpence.  The  Russians  are  detested  in  both  Turkey  and  Persia. 
Both  countries  have  within  a  few  years,  groaned  under  the  devasta- 
tion of  Russian  armies.  Whereas,  Americans  are  regarded  by  aJl 
classes  in  these  countries,  cen  by  those  who  have  so  vague  a  notion 
of  the  New  World  as  to  suppose  it  to  be  situated  in  the  skies,  as  a 
nation  of  philanthropists.  May  America  establish  its  claim  to  that 
high  character,  by  scattering  the  rich  blessings  of  light,  knowledge 
and  salvation  over  all  the  world. 

To-day,  as  our  road  was  comparatively  smooth,  I  proposed  to 
Takvoor  to  ride  forward  with  one  or  two  of  the  Turks,  and  spread 
the  tent  in  anticipation  of  our  arrival.  He  made  forward  about  thir- 
ty rods,  and  no  urging  could  press  liim  farther.  He  was  absolutely 
afraid  to  go  from  our  sight.  J  therefore  called  him  back  and  pro- 
posed to  the  Armenian  servant,  who  was  very  ambitious  to  be  thought 
a  hero,  to  go  on  with  the  tent.  He  galloped  on  until  he  had  gained 
about  fifty  rods,  and  there  was  an  end  of  his  despatch.  I  then  proposed 
to  both  Takvoor  and  the  servant  to  proceed  together,  and  they  start- 
ed with  great  animation,  but  in  half  an  hour  fell  back  again  with 
the  company.  I  at  last  drew  a  laugh  upon  them,  from  the  Turks, 
which  provoked  them  to  an  effort  that  carried  them  out  of  sight  and 
secured  the  erection  of  the  tent  for  once  in  season.  The  Armeni- 
ans are  a  nation  of  cowards;  the  Persians  significantly  call  them, 
hares.  But  it  should  not  be  a  subject  of  wonder,  when  we  remem- 
ber how  long  they  have  worn  the  heavy,  galling  yoke  of  Muhamme- 
dan  bondage. 

June  17.  We  started  early  and  soon  descended  into  delightful, 
undulating  valleys.    The  soil  appeared  fertile  and  we  observed  nu- 


AGRICULTURAL  UTENSILS. 


103 


rnerous  husbandmen  upturning  the  furrow.  The  term,  husband- 
man, however,  when  applied  to  an  inhabitant  of  Turkey  or  the  East 
in  genera],  carries  with  it,  by  no  means,  the  same  delightful  associa- 
tions, to  the  mind  of  a  traveller,  acquainted  with  those  countries, 
which  that  term  suggests,  to  one  in  America.  Agriculture  in  Asia 
is  miserably  conducted.  We  saw  many  teams,  to-day,  of  three  yokes 
of  oxen,  attached  to  the  rude  oriental  plough  which  seemed  hardly 
to  mark  the  ground.  This  plough  consists  of  a  beam,  one  upright 
handle  and  a  block  of  wood  at  the  bottom,  to  which  these  are  attach- 
ed, sharpened  at  the  fore  end  and  capped  with  a  small  tooth  of  iron  to 
serve  the  purpose  of  the  share.  The  yokes  for  the  oxen,  are  straight 
pieces,  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  length.  Sticks,  passing  down  through 
the  yoke,  on  each  side  of  the  neck,  and  attached  by  strings  be- 
low, are  the  bows.  A  man  or  boy  rides  on  the  middle  yoke,  facing 
backward,  and  with  a  long  goad  pricks  up  the  middle  and  forward 
oxen,  while  the  man  at  the  plough  deals  out  a  bountiful  quota  of 
stripes  to  the  hindermost  cattle.  These  are  only  specimens  of  Turk- 
ish and  Persian  agricultural  utensils.  I  feel  bound  to  state,  howev- 
er, that  the  rude  plough  which  I  have  described  penetrates  the  earth 
much  deeper  and  serves  a  far  better  purpose  than  I  supposed  it  pos- 
sible to  do,  on  first  observing  it ;  and  1  have  been  in  like  manner 
favorably  disappointed,  on  better  acquaintance  with  many  other  rude 
instruments  of  the  oriental  farmer  and  mechanic.  The  improved 
utensils  of  Europe  and  America  would  doubtless,  however,  diminish 
their  labor  by  half,  and  more  than  double  their  products. 

We  rode  to  the  east  and  south-east,  five  hours,  and  pitched  our 
tent  near  the  village  of  Suptoros,  which  is  situated  in  the  middle  of 
a  level  valley  of  great  extent.  Almost  innumerable  cattle,  sheep 
and  goats  were  feeding  around  us.  I  counted  one  hundred  and 
twenty  young  calves  standing  in  a  single  group.  And  the  young 
goats  were  so  numerous  and  social,  that  it  was  with  much  difficul- 
ty we  could  prevent  them  from  thronging  our  tent. 

The  vicar  of  the  Pasha  of  Erzroom  overtook  us  a  mile  or  two 
before  we  reached  our  stopping-place,  and  travelled  on  with  us  very 
socially  until  we  turned  off  to  our  tent.  He  stated  that  war  was  at 
hand,  on  the  frontiers  of  Persia,  alluding,  as  we  afterwards  found, 
to  the  disturbed  state  of  affairs  on  account  of  depredations  commit- 
ted there  by  the  Xoords.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  twenty 
soldiers  passed  by,  chained  together,  on  their  way  from  Erzroom  to 
Constantinople.  They  were  the  body  guard  of  a  Pasha  of  the  Laz, 
who,  being  suspected  of  ambitious  designs  and  fearing  the  conse- 
quences, had  fied  ftora  his  district,  but  was  apprehended  and  stran- 
gled at  Erzroom. 

Takvoor  went  to  the  village  near  us  to  procure  some  milk  and 
eggs.  The  Armenian  inhabitants,  seeing  our  military  tent,  (for  such 
it  happened  to  be,)  and  Takvoor  in  Frank  costume,  (he  had  shifted 
back  again  after  leaving  Trebizond  to  his  chrysalis  form,)  exclaim- 
ed, "  They  are  soldiers."  But  when  he  addressed  them  in  their  own 

14 


106 


WINTER  AND  SUMMER  STAGES  BAIBOOT. 


tongue,  tlieif  apprehensions  subsided,  and  they  welcomed  him  with 
great  cordiality,  and  put  up  for  liim  two  dozen  of  eggs,  a  fowl  and 
a  quantity  of  bread  and  cheese,  all  for  a  quarter  of  a  dollar.  Pea- 
sants in  both  Turkey  and  Persia  dread  the  approach  of  their  own 
troops  even  more  than  an  invading  army,  as  the  lawless  depreda- 
tions and  abuses  of  the  former  on  the  defenceless  inhabitants  are 
likely  far  to  surpass  those  of  the  latter. 

June  18.  We  started  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morning,  rode  four 
hours,  in  an  east  and  south-east  direction,  left  ancient  Pontus  and 
entered  Armenia,  and  reached  the  town  of  Baiboot.  I  remonstra- 
ted with  our  muleieer  for  making  such  short  stages,  but  was  unable 
to  induce  him  to  proceed  farther  that  day;  though  he  promised  to 
drive  six  hours,  every  day  afterward,  until  we  should  reach  Erz- 
roora.  It  is  a  fact  which  generally  strikes  a  stranger  in  these  coun- 
tries as  singular,  that  journeys  are  always  performed  by  caravans 
much  sooner  in  winter  than  in  summer.  The  reason  is,  that  in  win- 
ter, muleteers  are  compelled  to  travel  regular  stages,  (20  or  25  miles,) 
each  day  to  procure  keeping  at  the  public  inns  for  their  horses. 
Whereas,  in  summer,  they  find  abundance  of  forage  by  the  way ; 
and  men  who  reckon  life  not  so  much  by  days  and  years  as  by  pipes  of 
tobacco,  are  very  apt  to  make  half  stages,  in  those  circumstances,  and 
leisurely  enjoy  the  good  of  their  labor.  Our  muleteer,  as  we  now 
found,  not  only  retarded  our  progress  by  short  stages,  but  instead  of 
taking  us  on  the  direct  route  from  Tekeh  to  Baiboot,  which  leads 
through  the  village  of  Balhoor,  he  had,  for  the  sake  of  finding  more 
abundant  grass  for  the  caravan,  conducted  us  round  on  a  somewhat 
circuitous  route.  Travellers  generally  make  this  journey  some 
days  quicker  than  we  did  ;  but  in  order  to  this,  they  must  determine 
the  period  of  it  in  settling  the  bargain,  and  graduate  the  price  by  the 
speed  with  which  they  are  to  travel.  Tn  carrying  merchandise,  car- 
avans are  on  the  road  at  least  twice  the  time  that  a  traveller  wishes 
to  occupy  ;  and  as  the  muleteer  cannot  afford  thus  to  overwork  his 
horses  without  a  corresponding  remuneration,  it  happens,  in  con- 
tracting with  him,  that  his  terms  will  always  be  in  an  inverse  ratio 
to  the  time  he  is  to  be  employed  in  earning  his  money.  We,  in  our 
unacquaintance  with  eastern  travelling,  had  omitted  to  fix  the  pe- 
riod of  our  journey,  and  were  therefore  obliged  to  yield  to  the  plea- 
sure of  our  muleteer,  though  we  paid  hini  a  liberal  sura. 

Baiboot  is  the  seat  of  a  small  pashalik,  within  the  limits  and  sub- 
ject to  the  more  general  jurisdiction  of  the  pashalik  of  Trebizond. 
It  is  very  romantically  situated  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  great  valley 
we  entered  yesterday,  in  a  niche  among  the  mountains,  just  large 
enough  for  its  convenient  location.  In  approaching  it  from  the 
west,  it  is  entirely  secluded  from  view  by  a  low  undulating  ridge 
which  bounds  this  valley  on  the  east,  and  it  Is  equally  hidden  on  the 
other  side  by  a  higher  mountain  range,  boldly  terminated  or  rather 
interrupted,  by  the  recess  that  contains  the  town.  An  imposing 
castle,  perched  on  this  mountain  cliff  overlooks  it  on  the  east,  and  a 


VISIT  FROM  THE  PASHA 


107 


considerable  river,  the  Jorokh,  which  comes  down  a  narrow  valley 
from  that  direction,  and  here  changes  its  course  to  north,  runs 
through  the  centre.  Baiboot  contains  about  six  or  eight  thousand 
inhabitants,  nearly  nine  tenths  of  whom  are  Muhammedans  and  the 
rest  Armenians.  The  houses  are  mostly  built  of  stone — a  few  of 
mud — and  some  of  the  two  materials  united.  The  building  stone, 
is  a  soft  yellowish  limestone  which  is  one  of  the  most  common 
rocks  in  the  vicinity.  Large  stacks  of  stable  manure  moulded  into 
cakes  of  the  shape,  and  about  twice  the  size,  of  loaves  of  bread,  were 
thickly  interspersed  among  the  dwellings,  laid  up  for  fuel.  This 
was  the  only  kind  of  fuel  which  we  had  seen  for  several  days,  and 
which  we  afterwards  saw,  among  the  peasants  of  both  Turkey  and 
Persia,  until  we  approached  Trebizond  on  our  return  ;  and  the 
same  is  true  of  the  flat  roofs  of  houses  covered  over  with  earth.  We 
pitched  our  tent  on  the  grassy  interval  which  skirls  the  Jorokh,  above 
the  city,  and  there  expands  into  a  beautiful  velvet  lawn,  about  a 
mile  in  width  and  twice  that  distance  in  length.  The  Jorokh,  by  the 
way,  winds  its  course  through  the  mountains  from  Baiboot  and  en- 
ters the  eastern  part  of  the  Black  Sea,  in  ancient  Colchis.  Was  it 
in  this  stream  that  the  adventurous  Jason  fished  for  the  golden 
fleece  1 

Takvoor  was  remarkably  fond  of  seeking  the  acquaintance  of 
great  men.  And  to-day,  I  yielded  to  his  importunity  and  gave  him 
my  firman  to  present  to  the  Pasha  of  Baiboot.  His  Excellency  re- 
ceived him  very  kindly,  and  told  him  that  he  had  been  looking  all 
day  for  our  arrival,  having  been  informed  by  the  vicar  of  the  Pasha 
of  Erzroom,  who  passed  us  the  day  previous,  that  we  were  on  the 
road.  He  expressed  a  strong  desire  to  make  my  acquaintance  ; 
but  Takvoor  told  him  that  we  were  tired,  and,  as  our  tent  was  pitch- 
ed nearly  a  mile  from  the  town,  T  could  not  conveniently  call  to 
visit  him.  He  proposed  to  send  a  horse  for  me  ;  but  Takvoor  con- 
trived to  meet  that  proposition  by  some  other  excuse,  to  relieve  me 
of  what  he  knew  would  be  an  unwelcome  formality.  The  Pasha 
sent  his  regards  to  me  and  several  armed  men,  to  serve  us  if  we 
were  in  need.  I  dismissed  the  men,  reciprocating  his  Excellency's 
regards  and  informing  him  that  we  were  in  no  particular  need. 
Just  before  evening,  however,  he  sent  to  us  a  fine  fat  lamb,  neatly 
dressed,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  rice  for  pildv.  And  I  had 
scarcely  despatched  our  servant  to  return  my  thanks  for  the  present, 
when  the  Pasha  himself,  to  complete  his  kind  attentions,  rode  up  to 
our  tent,  with  his  body-guard,  to  make  our  acquaintance.  He  dis- 
mounted and  came  familiarly  in,  and  conversed  socially  with  us  for 
nearly  an  hour.  He  had  a  piercing  eye  and  a  remarkably  fine  coun- 
tenance,— had.  no  beard,  and  his  blue  broadcloth  cloak  and  red 
Turkish'cap  gave  him  quite  the  appearance  of  a  European;  which 
was  well  set  off  by  the  air  and  manners  of  an  accomplished  gentle- 
man. We  treated  him  to  coffee,  and  he  professed  himself  highly 
gratified  with  the  visit, — said  we  should  ever  afterward  be  friends; 


108 


INTERESTING  SCENERY. 


and  that  whenever  I  should  return,  I  must  come  directly  to  his  house 
and  spend  several  days,  where  we  should  be  as  welcome  as  at  our 
own  home.  His  guard  meanwhile  thronged  our  tent  and  gazed  at 
us  with  such  eager  curiosity,  that  he  was  obliged  repeatedly  to  order 
them  away. 

This  visit  was  quite  an  attention  for  even  an  inferior  Turkish 
Pasha,  to  show  a  stranger;  and  it  impressed  me  very  pleasantly  with 
the  character  of  the  Turks,  who  are  naturally  a  noble  race  of  men. 
They  are  sober  and  dignified  in  their  demeanor,  generous  in  their 
dispositions,  and  very  hospitable  in  their  treatment  of  strangers. 
True,  their  religion  has  taught  them  to  be  vindictive  and  bloody  in 
their  treatment  of  their  christian  subjects.  But  let  the  gospel  rescue 
them  from  the  brutal  dominion  of  the  system  of  the  False  Prophet, 
shed  over  them  its  kindly  influence,  and  raise  their  thoughts  and 
hopes  to  a  higher  and  purer  heaven  than  that  to  which  they  are  now 
taught  to  aspire,  and  Asia  Minor  may  well  be  proud  of  its  present 
inhabitants. 

June  19.  Our  way  lay  up  the  Jorokh,  and  our  direction  east  by 
south.  The  charming  lawn  above  Baiboot  soon  contracts  into  a 
valley,  still  beautiful  but  quite  narrow,  bounded  on  either  side  by 
parallel  ranges  of  low  limestone  mountains,  which  are  sprinkled 
over  with  stinted  cedars.  Down  this  narrow  valley,  the  river  rolls 
for  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles,  in  nearly  the  some  direction,  with  a 
still  current,  but  so  rapid  that  it  would  soon  carry  its  banks  along 
with  it,  had  not  the  Hand  that  controls  the  elements  prevented  such 
a  disaster  by  guiding  it  all  the  way  in  a  zigzag  channel  to  curb  its 
accumulating  impetuosity.  Smooth  level  roads,  over  which  car- 
riages might  run,  lie  along  the  stream  at  the  base  of  the  mountain 
ranges,  generally  so  near  each  other  as  to  ^be  within  the  call  of  the 
voice,  and  occasionally  communicating  by  fine  arched  stone  bridges 
thrown  across  the  river.  Such  bridges  are  numerous  on  the  small 
rivers  in  the  interior  and  the  eastern  part  of  Turkey,  being  render- 
ed quite  indispensable  by  the  rise  of  the  streams  during  the  melting 
of  snow  on  the  mountains  in  spring.  Parts  of  this  narrow  interval 
are  fertile  meadows ;  but  most  of  it  is  overgrown  with  large  hijgh 
bushes  that  are  cut  and  carried  even  to  Erzroom  on  rude  carts,  and 
sold  as  fuel  to  the  nobility. 

We  passed  up  the  river,  on  the  north  side,  four  hours,  and  stop- 
ped to  bait  our  horses.  In  a  ravine,  on  the  opposite  side,  was  the 
village  of  Madden,  the  locality  of  a  copper  mine.  In  the  after- 
noon, we  rode  on  two  hours  more  and  encamped  for  the  night.  We 
were  several  miles  distant  from  any  village  and  consequently  unable 
to  procure  provision.  A  remaining  part  of  the  Pasha's  lamb  was 
therefore  just  in  season. 

June  20.  We  continued  up  the  Jorokh,  about  an  hour  to  the 
east,  and  then  turned  off  to  the  south-east,  rode  three  hours  upon 
the  bank  of  one  of  its  tributaries  and  stopped  to  bait  our  horses. 
On  the  tributary,  about  two  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  main 


PLAIN  OF  ERZROOM  SHEPHERDS. 


109 


stream,  is  a  soda  spring,  whose  water  boils  up  from  several  orifices 
with  a  murmuring  effervescence  and  has  gradually  deposited  a  coni- 
cal mound  of  tufa.  The  muleteer  was  determined  to  stop  for 
the  night  where  we  halted  to  bait,  but  I  insisted  on  his  performing 
the  six  hours  he  had  promised.  "  There  is  a  great  mountain  before 
us,"  he  exclaimed,  "  and  snow  on  it,  and  there  is  no  wood  nor  wa- 
ter." I,  however,  gave  him  to  understand  that  there  was  now  no 
alternative  ;  so  we  drove  on  and  crossed  the  lofty  snowy  mountain, 
and,  sure  enough,  we  did  not  find  a  stopping  place  until  7  o'clock 
in  the  evening.  We  were  then  almost  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
near  the  village  of  Hoshapana,  which  contains  about  fifty  Muham- 
medan  families. 

June  21.  We  started  early,  rode  across  the  rugged  valley  in 
which  we  had  encamped  for  the  night,  and  immediately  ascended 
another  lofty  mountain  ridge,  by  a  winding  way,  nearly  as  high  as 
the  one  we  crossed  the  day  before.  From  this  mountain,  we  had  a 
distant  view  of  Erzroom.  A  vast  plain,  near  thirty  miles  in  length, 
lay  between  us  and  the  city,  stretching  away  in  an  easterly  direction. 
Snowy  mountains  encompass  this  plain  on  all  sides,  and  the  western 
branch  of  the  river  Euphrates  meanders  through  its  centre.  Imme- 
diately on  descending  the  mountain,  we  crossed  a  small  tributary  of 
the  Euphrates,  and  from  this  rose  upon  the  vast  plain,  for  some 
miles  a  little  undulating,  upon  which  we  rode  three  hours  and  en- 
camped by  the  side  of  a  small  brook  for  the  Sabbath. 

Our  intention  had  been  to  linger  a  day,  about  that  distance  from 
Erzroom,  and  send  forward  our  muleteer,  to  apprise  Mr.  Zohrab, 
the  English  consular  agent,  of  our  coming.  He  was  the  only  Euro- 
pean resident  in  the  city,  and  at  that  time  was  supposed  to  have 
with  him  lady  Campbell,  wife  of  the  English  Ambassador  to  Persia, 
and  her  large  retinue,  on  their  way  to  England;  and  we  were  un- 
willing to  embarrass  him,  with  more  company,  by  an  unexpected 
arrival.  Providence  so  directed,  that  we  reached  the  desired  spot 
on  Saturday  afternoon,  and  we  had  thus  the  happy  privilege  of 
spending  another  quiet  Sabbath.  At  evening,  the  full  moon  rose 
and  spread  a  silvery  lustre  over  the  great  plain  and  surrounding 
mountains.  The  evening-star  twinkled  brightly  in  the  west;  the 
frogs,  there  just  breaking  from  their  winter  prison,  sang  sweetly  in 
the  brook  that  rippled  along  within  a  few  feet  of  our  tent, — and  the 
whole  so  transported  us,  for  the  moment,  from  the  distant  heights  of 
Armenia  to  the  land  and  the  scenes  of  our  childhood,  that  we  could 
not  help  thinking  tenderly  of  kindred  and  home. 

June  22.  Was  a  delightful  Sabbath.  The  entire  absence  of 
business  and  noise  around,  and  the  quiet  and  comfort  of  our  tent 
conspired  to  make  the  day  seem  indeed  like  "  the  holy  of  the  Lord 
— a  delight  and  honorable."  About  noon  the  shepherds  drove  their 
flocks  from  different  parts  of  the  plain  down  to  the  brook  near  us  to 
water.  "They  gathered  the  lambs  in  their  arms  and  carried  them 
in  their  bosom,  and  gently  led  those  that  were  with  young,"  and 


no 


EUPHRATES  EELIJAH. 


the  scene  very  naturally  and  vividly  turned  our  thoughts  to  the  great 
and  good  Shepherd  who  made  us  so  literally  "  to  lie  down  in  green 
pastures,"  and  led  us  "  beside  the  still  waters,"  amid  surrounding 
desolations  and  perils. 

June  23.  We  started  about  8  o'clock,  in  the  morning,  for  Erz- 
Toom.  After  riding  an  hour,  we  crossed  the  Euphrates,  (called  also  by 
the  natives  Kara  Soo,  black  wafer,)  which  is  there  only  about  five 
rods  wide  and  so  shallow  that  we  easily  rode  through  the  stream. 
The  river  has  its  source  in  the  neighboring  mountains;  and  far  be- 
low, doubtless,  somewhere  it  rolls  through  the  garden  of  Eden, — 
where,  I  leave  for  those  to  determine  who  pretend  to  more  skill  than 
myself  in  fixing  antediluvian  locations  and  revealing  objects  of  an- 
tiquity. Half  an  hour  from  the  Euphrates,  brought  us  to  Eelijah, 
the  warm  springs,  which  are  about  ten  miles  west  of  Erzroom. 
They  are  two  in  number,  surrounded  by  rude  walls,  and  much  re- 
sorted to  for  bathing,  one  being  used  by  males  and  the  other  by  fe- 
males. The  temperature  of  this  water  is  93°  Fahrenheit.  We 
passed  several  villages,  on  the  way,  and  a  great  number  were  in 
sight  on  other  parts  of  the  plain,  which  seemed  to  be  almost  wholly 
under  cultivation.  Though  so  elevated,  the  plain  of  Erzroom  is 
quite  fertile  and  yields  fine  crops,  particularly  of  wheat.  We  reach- 
ed the  city  at  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  We  had,  for  some 
hours,  supposed  ourselves  very  near  it.  Over  so  deceptive  a  coun- 
try, in  point  of  distance,  I  had  never  before  rode,  which  may 
be  owing  to  its  height  and  the  consequent  rarity  and  clearness  of 
the  atmosphere, — perhaps  also  to  the  want  of  objects  to  mark  the 
intervening  distance.  I  have  often  since  had  occasion  to  observe 
the  same  phenomenon  in  the  northern  parts  of  Persia. 

We  were  very  kindly  received  by  Mr.  Zohrab.  Lady  Campbell 
had  not  arrived,  having  been  hindered,  on  the  frontier,  by  distur- 
bance from  the  Koords.  In  anticipation  of  her  soon  coming,  how- 
ever, I  preferred  to  take  lodgings  in  a  neighboring  Turkish  house, 
rather  than  incumber  Mr.  Zohrab's;  and  thus,  for  the  first  time,  we 
found  ourselves  occupants  of  a  house  without  windows.  We  used 
our  saddles  for  chairs,  and  resorted  to  similar  expedients  for  other 
articles  of  furniture,  having  no  occasion  to  cook,  as  we  took  our 
meals  at  Mr.  Zohrab's  table. 


RETROSPECT  CARAVAN  TRAVELLING. 


Ill 


CHAPTER  VIL 

ERZROOM  AND  JOURNEY  THENCE  TO  ERIVAN. 

Having  reached  the  humble  resting-place  mentioned  at  the  close 
of  the  preceding  chapter,  the  reader  will  excuse  me,  before  turning 
to  other  matters,  for  indulging  in  a  hasty  retrospect  of  the  new 
mode  of  life  which  we  had  been  pursumg,  the  few  previous  days. 
And  this  I  cannot,  perhaps,  more  readily  do,  than  by  quotiug  from 
a  letter  written  at  that  time  and  from  those  lodgings,  to  the  secre- 
tary of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.  It  is  under  date  of  June  26,  and  the 
extracts  are  as  follows. 

"  We  have  passed  over  one  third  of  the  distance,  and  by  far  the 
most  mountainous  and  difficult  part  of  our  land  journey.  We  were 
thirteen  days  on  the  road,  including  two  Sabbaths,  on  which  we  did 
not  journey.  We  have  travelled  in  company  with  a  caravan,  and 
Mrs.  P.  as  well  as  myself,  has  rode  upon  a  saddle.  We  have  found 
our  journey  thus  far,  much  less  tedious  than  we  had  apprehended. 
We  have,  indeed,  climbed  up  and  again  descended,  upon  a  single 
parapet,  many  long,  frightful  and  perilous  precipices  ;  but  our  short 
stages  of  not  more  than  twenty  miles,  each  day,  have,  for  the  most 
part,  been  little  more  than  agreeable  exercise.  We  have  crossed 
many  lofty,  snowy  mountains  ;  but  the  cool  air,  at  this  season,  we 
have  found,  in  general,  invigorating  and  delightful.  Our  home  at 
night  has  been  the  open  canopy  of  heaven,  except  a  shelter  of  can- 
vass ;  but  it  has  been  very  comfortable.  Our  tent  relieved  us  from 
the  necessity  of  seeking  lodgings  in  the  filthy  hovels  of  the  country, 
and  perhaps  kept  us  from  contact  with  the  pestilence  that  walketh 
in  darkness.  There  is  something,  moreover,  in  this  rural  kind  of 
life, — in  spreading  a  tent  in  green  pastures,  on  the  banks  of  running 
streams,  surrounded  by  shepherds  and  grazing  flocks,  which  to  us 
has  been  far  from  disagreeable.  To  adopt  this  style  for  life  would, 
indeed,  be  to  become  a  barbarian  ;  but  to  follow  it  a  short  time,  on 
the  road,  in  the  summer  season,  few,  I  believe,  of  the  most  cultiva- 
ted, would  find  unwelcome  ;  and  a  missionary,  will  certainly  be  the 
last  to  complain  of  it,  when  he  remembers  who  it  was  that  '  had  not 
where  to  lay  his  head.'  Our  table,  too,  we  have  spread  in  the  field ; 
but  a  good  servant,  furnished  us  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  English 
consulate  at  Trebizond,  has  prepared  our  food  in  a  cleanly,  palata- 
ble manner.  Our  course  has  been,  not  to  enter  the  villages  on  the 
road,  but  pitch  our  tent  at  a  little  distance,  and  send  to  them  for 
simple  articles  of  food,  as  milk,  eggs,  etc. 

"  In  reference  to  our  treatment  from  our  muleteer  and  the  other 
Turks,  connected  with  the  caravan,  I  should  do  them  injustice  not 


112 


ERZROOM. 


to  speak,  on  the  whole,  decidedly  in  their  favor.  Not  an  article  of 
our  baggage  was  lost  or  injured  on  the  road,  and  with  a  few  excep- 
tions of  duplicity,  they  were  kind  and  attentive  to  our  wishes.  I 
am  sure,  at  least,  that  I  have  met  with  few  American  stage-coach 
drivers*  who  took  so  good  care  of  my  baggage,  or  were  so  accom- 
modating to  my  wishes,  as  these  stigmatized  iariarmns.  I  am  not, 
you  will  recollect,  analyzing  the  motives,  that  may  influence  the 
Turks,  in  their  conduct  towards  an  American  traveller.  Grant 
that  Turkish  kindness  results  entirely  from  dread  of  European 
power,  or  hope  of  remuneration,  as  some  will  have  it,  which,  how- 
ever, I  am  disposed  to  doubt;  still,  so  far  as  the  comfort  of  the  tra- 
veller is  concerned,  it  is  the  same.  I  am  quite  convinced  that  it  is 
entirely  practicable  to  travel  comfortably  in  Turkey,  with  suitable, 
yet  cheap  and  humble  preparations."  Thus  much  for  recapitula- 
tion. 

Erzroom  stands  on  a  moderate  elevation,  at  the  eastern  extremity 
of  the  great  plain  which  we  crossed  in  approaching  it.  It  is  a  very 
venerable  city — one  of  the  oldest  in  the  world — situated  at  the  base 
of  the  Ararat  mountain  range,  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Euphra- 
tes, and  founded,  as  tradition  says,  by  a  grandson  of  Noah.  It  is 
the  Arz,or  Arza,  of  ancient  times,  which  took  the  affix  room  from 
its  belonging,  atone  period,  to  the  Greek  empire  of  Room  ;  thus  be- 
coming Erzroom.  It  figures  largely  in  Armenian  history,  having 
for  some  time  been  the  capital  of  that  ancient  kingdom.  It  contains 
at  present  about  35,000  inhabitants,  who  are  principally  Turks, 
most  of  the  Armenians  having  emigrated  to  Georgia,  at  the  time  of 
the  Russian  invasion.  There  were  in  the  city  when  we  passed 
through  it,  only  300  Armenian  and  120  Armenian  catholic  families. 
The  number  of  Armenians  has  since  considerably  increased,  by  the 
return  of  many  emigrants  from  the  Russian  provinces.  The  city 
has  seventy-five  streets,  running  in  various  directions,  which  are 
broad  for  an  Asiatic  city,  but  very  filthy ;  and  each  street  has  its 
mosk  and  lofty  minaret,  from  whose  tops  "the  faithful"  7nuezzins 
summon  the  benighted  inhabitants  times  a  day  to  the  devotions 
of  the  Prophet.  1  do  not  recollect  to  have  heard  the  call  to  prayers 
at  10  o'clock,  A.  M. — or  at  4  o'clock,  P.  M.  so  regularly  given  in 
any  other  Muhammedan  city.  Its  houses  are  generally  built  of  earth, 
with  occasional  square  sticks  of  timber  in  the  walls  to  give  them  sup- 
port, though  many  of  them  are  built  of  fine  hewn  stone.  There  are 
some  remains  of  an  ancient  wall  and  fosse  around  the  city;  but  the 
citadel  only  is  at  present  fortified ;  and  this  is  said  to  be  the  work 
of  the  adventurous  Genoese.    The  appearance  of  Erzroom  is  very 


*  I  am  happy  to  record  my  impression,  from  extensive  travelling  daring  my 
visit  to  the  United  States,  that  there  has  been  very  decided  improvement  in 
the  cliaracter  and  conduct  of  our  stage-coach  drivers  and  the  agents  find  con- 
ductors of  steam-boats  and  rail-road  cars  within  the  last  ten  years.  This  may 
be  owinn-  to  the  progress  of  temperance  ;  but  much  also  probably  to  the  more 
ciili{>  liteaLHl  viowH  of  the  proprietors  of  our  public  conveyances. 


ANTIQUITIES  COMMERCE. 


sombre  and  uninviting,  and  from  its  great  elevation — 5,500  feet 
by  the  barometer,  and  near  7,000  feet  by  experiments  in  boiling 
water — above  the  sea,  the  weather  most  of  the  year,  is  extremely 
cold.  As  a  residence  it  must  be  dreary,  though  its  climate,  al- 
most as  matter  of  course,  is  usually  healthy.  The  city  is  well  sup- 
plied with  vegetables  from  gardens  near  it,  but  has  no  fruit  except 
what  is  brought  a  considerable  distance,  from  a  more  temper;ite  re- 
gion. Its  moral  aspect  struck  us  as  even  darker  than  thatof  Trebi- 
zond,  the  people  appearing  still  more  shy,  rude  and  degraded. 

There  are  few  objects  of  interest,  in  modern  Erzroom.  The 
principal  remnant  of  antiquity  which  1  observed  is  the  Jiftek  Minc- 
reh,  (pair  of  minarets,)  a  vast  stone  building,  finely  constructed, 
but  now  in  a  dilapidated  state,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  ori- 
ginally an  Armenian  church,  and  subsequently  desecrated,  as  so 
many  others  have  been,  by  the  Muhammedans,  and  surmounted  by 
them  with  the  two  more  modern  brick  minarets  from  which  it  bears 
its  present  name.  I  also  visited  the  largest  mosk  in  the  city.  It  is  an 
immense  structure,  but  exhibits  only  a  mass  of  dead  walls  and  pil- 
lars with  no  particular  skill  or  laste  displayed  in  their  erection.  The 
bare  walls  of  this  and  all  Turkish  mosks,  however,  as  places  of  re- 
ligious worship,  it  must  be  confessed,  present  a  most  grateful  con- 
trast to  the  idolatrous  array  of  pictures  and  paintings  that  so  disgrace 
the  interior  of  Papal  and  oriental  churches.  And  no  marvel  that 
the  followers  of  Muhammed  feel  and  pride  themselves  on  the  force 
and  advantage  of  this  broad  difference  in  their  favor.  On  the  open 
space  east  of  the  city  are  two  circular  stone  towers  of  moderate  size 
and  height,  with  conical  roofs,  most  admirably  constructed,  evident- 
ly quite  ancient,  whose  origin  and  use  are  alike  unknown.  The 
commerce  of  Erzroom  is  immense, — its  local  situation  being  ex- 
ceedingly felicitous  for  transit  trade.  It  is  the  grand  thoroughfare 
between  Europe,  Asia  Minor  and  Syria,  on  the  one  hand,  and  Per- 
sia, and  to  a  considerable  extent,  Georgia  and  Mesopotamia,  on  the 
other.  The  city  was  seriously  injured,  in  its  commercial  as  well  as 
its  other  interests,  by  the  Russian  invasion  in  1829.  Many  of  the 
Armenians,  whom  they  enticed  or  forced  away,  were  its  most  enter- 
prising merchants.  Their  houses  and  shops  were  left  desolate,  and 
much  of  their  wealth  became  the  spoil  of  the  invaders,  who  plun- 
dered extensively  both  Armenians  and  Turks  of  whatever  valuables 
they  could  carry  away,  even  to  the  town  clock  from  the  tower  of  the 
citadel — marble  torn  from  the  ancient  sepulchre  of  the  Jifteh  Mim- 
reh,  and  bars  of  iron  from  the  walls  of  the  common  dwellings.  And 
in  addition  to  the  systematic  rapacity  practised  by  the  Russian  offi- 
cers, the  suffering  inhabitants  were  also  despoiled  of  the  fruits  of 
their  honest  industry,  by  the  wanton  depredations  of  the  soklierp. 
A  case  of  this  kind  stated  to  me  by  Mr.  Zohrab,  who  was  there  at  the 
time,  will  serve  as  an  instance.  A  soldier  one  day  entered  the  shop 
of  a  Turkish  merchant,  and  observed  the  Turk,  as  he  traded,  to 
deposit  his  money  under  the  cushion  of  the  sofa  on  which  he  was 

15 


1  14         EFFECTS  OF  WAR  KOORDISH  DISTURBANCES. 


seated.  The  soldier  proposed  to  purchase  some  cotton-wool,  nnd  the 
merchant  produced  it  and  received  his  pay  for  it.  The  soldier  then 
requested  him  to  put  a  quantity  of  the  wool  down  his  back,  under 
his  coat-collar,  to  keep  out  the  cold,  and  stooped  over  the  sofa  to  af- 
ford him  a  convenient  position.  The  honest  Turk  applied  himself 
leisurely  to  the  task.  To  a  friend  in  a  neighboring  stall,  who  called 
out  to  him,  "  what  are  you  doing,"  he  facetiously  answered,  "  I  am 
only  stuffing  the  saddle  of  a  donkey."  The  soldier,  meanwhile,  pil- 
laged the  sofa  of  its  pecuniary  contents,  and  before  half  his  wool  was 
exhausted,  bade  the  merchant  welcome  to  the  remainder  and  with- 
drew. The  poor  Turk  at  length  discovering  his  loss  and  raising  a 
lamentation  over  it,  could  only  realize  the  sorry  solace  from  his 
neighbor,  "  which  is  the  greatest  donkey, — you  or  the  infidel  Rus- 
sian V  Such  were  the  Vandal  lessons  which  civilized  Christians 
taught  those  "  barbarian"  Moslems.  The  Russians,  however,  aton- 
ed in  a  good  measuse  for  the  wrongs  they  committed,  by  the  saluta- 
ry impression  which  they  gave  the  haughty  Turks  of  the  terror  of 
European  arms, — an  impression  far  deeper  and  more  lasting  on  the 
minds  of  the  inhabitants  than  was  the  commercial  injury  inflicted  on 
their  town.  Indeed  the  Russian  occupation  of  Erzroom  and  that 
part  of  Turkey  was  a  mighty  moral  earthquake  that  shook  to  its 
centre  the  whole  Ottoman  empire ;  and  the  influence  of  which,  how- 
ever little  its  authors  intended  it,  is  operating  powerfully  on  the 
decline  of  the  whole  fabric  of  jMuhammedism,  and  will  thus  operate 
until  its  final  downfall. 

June  24.  A  Persian  Khan,  the  agent  of  the  Persian  government, 
at  Erzroom,  called  to  make  our  acquaintance.  He  appeared  quite 
surprised  at  the  idea  of  our  having  come  fi*om  the  distant  New 
World,  to  live  in  Persia,  and  remarked,  that  since  we  had  come  so 
far  to  benefit  his  countrymen,  he  sincerely  hoped  and  trusted  that 
they,  in  return,  would  testify  their  gratitude  by  receiving  and  treat- 
ing us  kindly.  He  was  the  first  Persian  with  whom  we  became  ac- 
quainted ;  he  impressed  us  pleasantly  by  his  easy  social  manners. 

June  27.  Mr.  Brant,  the  British  consul  at  Trebizond*  arrived, 
in  company  with  lady  Campbell  and  Mrs.  McNeill,t  on  their  way 
from  Persia.  They  gave  us  the  particulars  of  the  Koordish  disturb- 
ance on  the  frontier,  which  were  the  following.  About  ten  days 
before,  the  Jellalees,  the  powerful  Koordish  tribe  who  inhabit  the 
lower  declivity  of  Mt.  Ararat,  fell  upon  a  Persian  caravan,  on  its 
way  from  Tabreez  to  Erzroom,  and  took  away  about  fifty  loaded 
horses.  This  happened  near  Bayazeed,  the  Turkish  frontier  town. 
And  a  day  or" two  afterward,  they  attacked  another  Persian  caravan, 
consisting  of  five  hundred  horses,  on  its  way  from  Erzroom  to  Ta- 
breez. Two  hundred  horses  and  loads  were  taken  from  this  cara- 
van and  a  number  of  men  killed,  on  both  sides,  in  the  encounter. 


*  Now  at  Erzroom. 

\  Now  lady  McNeill,  wife  of  the  present  English  ambassador  to  Persia. 


ATTENTIONS  PROM  THE  PASHA  FOURTH  OF  JULY.      1  15 


Mr.  Brant  and  the  English  ladies  were  one  day's  ride  from  the 
scene,  when  these  robberies  were  committed.  The  Pasha  of  Baya- 
zeed  sent  word  to  him  to  stop  immediately,  until  he  should  raise 
troops  and  come  on  to  accompany  him.  Mr.  Brant  accordingly 
lingered  a  day  or  two  at  Diadeen,  and  the  Pasha  overtook  him  there 
with  three  hundred  armed  horsemen,  who  escorted  him  and  his  par- 
ty several  days  over  the  dangerous  part  of  the  way,  towards  Erz- 
room.  At  the  place  where  one  of  the  encounters  occurred,  Mr. 
Brant,  as  he  passed  it,  saw  papers  strown  about,  and  one  dead  body 
lying  on  the  ground.  The  scene  of  depredation  was  described  by 
the  muleteers  as  highly  ludicrous,  as  well  as  sad  and  bloody.  The 
largest  caravan  was  loaded,  to  a  considerable  extent,  with  sugar ; 
and  hardly  had  the  Koords  talcen  possession  of  the  loads,  when  their 
wives  had  rolled  several  of  the  boxes  into  a  small  stream  that  was 
near,  and  were  calling  on  their  husbands  and  children  to  come  and 
drink  sweet  water! 

These  disturbances  were  trying  news  to  us  , effectually  hedged  up  as 
our  way  to  Persia  then  seemed  to  be,  for  a  long  time,  by  the  excited 
state  of  the  savage  Koords.  And  that  the  candid  reader  may  appre- 
ciate the  extent  of  our  embarrassment,  from  the  unexpected  delay 
thus  occasioned  on  the  road,  and  the  better  understand  my  allu- 
sions to  it,  at  .subsequent  stages,  on  our  journey,  I  may  here  state, 
that  Mrs.  P.  was  looking  forward  to  a  confinement,  in  the  course 
of  a  few  weeks,  before  which  event  we  had  fully  expected  to 
reach  Tabreez,  still  between  four  and  five  hundred  miles  distant, — 
that  city  being  the  nearest  place  where  the  services  of  a  European 
physician,  or  the  aid  of  a  European  lady  could  be  enjoyed.  When 
the  Pasha  of  Erzroom,  whose  jurisdiction  extends  to  the  Persian 
frontier,  heard  of  the  ravages  of  the  Koords,  he  sent  on  a  guard  to 
meet  Mr.  Brant,  and  commenced  making  preparations  to  go  him- 
self, at  the  head  of  all  his  troops,  to  chastise  the  Jellalees, — and  he 
could  only  advise  us  to  linger  a  few  days,  and  come  on  in  his  rear, 
a  course  to  which,  in  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  we  were  com- 
pelled however  reluctantly,  to  yield. 

Ju7ie  29.  I  preached  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Zohrab,  our  congrega- 
tion consisting  of  the  English  party  from  Persia  and  Mrs.  Perkins. 

June  30.  The  Pasha  sent  his  coach — an  old  German  vehicle 
presented  to  him  by  the  Russian  government — for  lady  Campbell 
and  Mrs.  McNeill  to  ride  about  the  city.  They  invited  Mrs.  P.  to 
accompany  them ;  and  the  gentlemen,  Messrs.  Brant,  Zohrab  and 
myself,  rode  on  horse-back.  We  went  round  the  city  and  through 
a  part  of  it;  and  on  our  way,  visited  a  beautiful  Turkish  garden, — 
the  best  and  almost  the  only  one  in  Erzroom.  It  had  a  fountain 
in  its  centre  and  several  jets  d'eau  playing  briskly  in  it, — a  scene 
far  more  common  in  Persia  than  in  Turkey. 

July  i..  The  jubilee  of  American  independence.  How  differ- 
ent were  our  circumstances,  in  our  lonely  dark  Turkish  hovel,  from 
the  cheerful  festivities  of  that  anniversary  at  home !    A  day  or  two 


116 


EXPEDITION  OF  THE  PASHA. 


before,  Mr.  Brant  had  told  me  that  I  must  allow  my  mustaches  to 
grow,  or  the  boys  in  Persia  would  hoot  me  and  call  me  a  Frank 
eunuch.  So  to-day  to  celebrate  the  "glorious  fourth,"  I  left  my 
upper  lip  unshaved,  and  it  remained  so  until  I  had  passed  Smyrna, 
on  my  return  to  America.  Mr.  B.  told  me,  also,  that  it  would  not 
do  for  Mrs.  Perkins  to  take  my  arm,  and  that  she  must  always  wear 
a  veil,  when  we  walk  out  in  Persia  ;  and  that  my  skirted  coat  would 
be  useless  there, — all  the  European  residents  in  that  country  wearing 
frock  coats,  which  approach  more  nearly  to  the  full  flowing  gar- 
ments of  the  Persian  costume.  All  these  precautions  we  have 
found  it  expedient  to  adopt,  except  the  second ;  the  Persians  have 
never  molested  us,  but  merely  gazed  with  an  innocent  curiosity, 
when  our  wives  have  taken  our  arms  in  our  walks. 

July  5.  Mr.  Brant,  lady  Campbell  and  Mrs.  McNeill  proceeded 
on  their  journey,- — the  former  to  Trebizond,  and  the  two  latter  to 
England.  They  showed  us  much  kindness,  and  did  all  in  their 
power,  by  information,  advice  and  otherwise,  to  further  us  on  our 
journey.  On  their  departure,  we  removed  to  the  quarters  they  had 
occupied  at  Mr.  Zohrab's  house,  where  we  had  taken  our  meals  with 
them  during  their  stay ;  and  for  Mr.  Z's  hospitality  and  assistance, 
then  and  on  subsequent  occasions,  I  would  record  my  very  grateful 
acknowledgements.  To  the  American  and  European  traveller,  at 
that  time,  his  dwelling  was  like  an  oasis  in  the  desert. 

Jul}/.  10.  The  Pasha  joined  his  troops  for  the  expedition  against 
the  Jellalees.  A  portion  of  the  troops  had  been  encamped  some 
days,  about  a  mile  east  of  the  city.  Mr.  Zohrab,  Mrs.  P.  and 
myself  went  out  some  distance  and  seated  ourselves  bythe  road-side, 
to  see  the  procession.  European  tactics  were  then  adopted  in  that 
distant  province,  to  a  considerable  extent,  as  well  as  at  the  capital. 
The  dress  of  the  infantry  was  the  same  red  fez  which  is  worn  at 
Constantinople,  and  the  short  blue  jacket  trimmed  with  red,  but  white 
canvass  pantaloons,  it  now  being  summer.  Their  arms  were  mus- 
kets. The  cavalry  were  armed  with  spears,  like  the  Koordish  spear, 
about  twelve  feet  long,  which  they  carried  perpendicularly,  the  low- 
er end  resting  on  the  stirrups,  and  a  small  ensign,  indicating  the 
company,  was  flying  on  the  handle,  near  the  top.  About  700  cavalry 
troops  marched  out  in  front  of  his  Excellency  ;  next  followed  a  train 
of  his  chargers,  splendidly  caparisoned,  led  by  men  on  other  horses; 
and  then  came  the  Pasha  himself,  on  a  beautiful  grey  horse,  wear- 
ing a  black  broadcloth  cloak  and  surrounded  by  a  considerable 
number  of  his  principal  officers.  In  the  rear  was  driven  his  oKd 
coach  drawn  by  six, — the  same  with  the  use  of  which  he  had  hon- 
ored the  English  ladies.  The  Pasha  had  an  effeminate  counte- 
nance ,  little  indicative  of  talent  or  energy.  He  was,  however,  a 
favorite  of  the  Sultan,  being  entrusted  with  one  of  the  highest  posts 
in  the  empire.  The  regulation  of  the  Turkish  relations  with  Persia 
rests  principally  with  the  Pashi  of  Erzroom.  He  took  with  him  on 
this  expedition  about  seven  thousand  men.    They  displayed  better 


VILLAGES  IN  ARMENIA. 


117 


order  than  I  had  expected  to  see,  in  Turkish  troops  at  Erzrooin, 
though  in  Europe  their  evolutions  would  have  appeared  like  a  bur- 
lesque on  military  tactics.  We  felt  little  disposition,  however,  to  be 
fastidious  in  those  matters,  desiring  most  that  they  would  hasten  on- 
ward and  open  our  way  to  Persia. 

Having  described  our  mode  of  travelling  with  considerable  par- 
ticularity in  the  preceding  chapter,  personal  incidents  becoming 
more  numerous  on  the  remaining  part  of  our  journey,  and  being 
mindful  of  the  long  distance  that  still  remains  before  we  reach  the 
field  of  our  destination,  and  the  scene  of  the  missionary  labors, 
which  it  is  the  primary  object  of  this  volume  to  record,  I  must  in- 
vite the  reader  to  hasten  on  with  me,  with  more  rapidity  than  has 
hitherto  marked  our  progress,  giving  the  regions  over  which  we 
travelled  and  their  towns  at  which  we  stopped  only  a  brief  passing 
notice.  I  may  remark  in  general,  as  I  have  before  suggested,  that 
the  countries  lying  between  Erzroom  and  Persia  are  far  less  rough 
than  those  betvveen  that  city  and  Trebizond.  They  consist  of  occa- 
sional lofty  mountain  ridges,  whose  ascent  and  descent  are  however 
gradual,  and  great  intervening  plains.  Indeed,  rail-roads  may  be 
constructed  without  much  difficulty  on  the  routes  between  Erzrooin 
and  Tabreez,  whenever  civilization  and  Christianity  shall  have  so 
improved  the  moral  condition  of  those  regions  as  to  render  such 
enterprizes  secure. 

Before  proceeding,  I  may  also  say  a  few  words  respecting  the 
villages  in  Armenia.  Lodging  under  a  tent,  as  we  did,  we  seldom 
had  occasion  to  enter  them ;  and  I  may  not  find  a  more  convenient 
place  to  allude  to  the  subject  than  now,  before  recommencing  our 
journey.  These  villages  are  just  like  those  described  by  Xeno- 
phon,  in  the  same  region,  on  his  retreat  with  the  Ten  Thousand. 
They  are  constructed  mostly  under  ground,  i.  e.  the  houses  are 
partially  sunk  below  the  surface,  and  the  eartla  is  also  raised  around 
them,  so  as  completely  to  imbed  three  sides,  the  fourth  remaining 
open  to  afford  a  place  for  the  door.  The  sides  within  are  sup- 
ported by  rough  stone  wails.  The  principal  apartment,  which  is 
usually  situated  near  the  door,  is  covered  over  with  large  timbers 
laid  in  an  octangular  form,  as  children  build  cob-houses,  gradually 
diminishing  in  size,  till,  at  the  top,  it  is  only  large  enough  to  serve 
the  twofold  purpose  of  affording  an  imperfect  passage  for  the  egress 
of  the  smoke  and  the  entrance  of  a  few  rays  of  light.  These  tim- 
bers are  covered  with  small  limbs,  bushes,  dry  grass,  etc.  to  fill  up 
the  interstices,  and  the  whole  is  terraced  over  with  a  thick  bed  of 
earth.  In  this  apartment,  the  family,  consisting  generally  of  from 
three  to  five  generations,  live,  eat  and  sleep  together.  Here,  too, 
the  cooking  is  done,  in  an  oven  that  is  simply  a  hole  sunk  in  the 
ground,  coated  with  a  layer  of  clay  mortar,  which  soon  hardens,  by 
the  action  of  the  fire,  to  the  consistency  of  brick. 

The  other  apartments  of  the  house  are  entered  by  the  common 
door,  and  situated  further  back.    These  are  covered  with  timbers 


J18 


LODGINGS  A  THUNDER  STORM. 


placed  horizontally — having  no  aperture,  and  terraced  over,  as  in 
the  case  above  described.  They  are  not  much  lighted,  and  are 
occupied  by  the  cattle  and  flocks  and  their  winter  provisions, —  i.  e. 
they  are  the  barn  and  stables,  and  are  situated  back  of  the  family 
for  the  greater  security  of  their  contents.  On  slightly  elevated 
terraces  in  the  corners  of  the  stables,  the  guests  are  lodged,  who 
might  felicitate  themselves,  had  they  no  less  agreeable  companions 
than  the  horses,  cattle,  sheep  and  poultry  even  ;  but  are,  almost  as  a 
matter  of  course,  overrun  with  loathsome  vermin ;  perhaps  less  in 
the  stables,  however,  than  they  would  be  in  the  apartment  devoted 
to  the  family.  The  natives  are  so  accustomed  to  these  greedy  little 
devourers  as  scarcely  to  notice  them  ;  but  the  American  or  Euro- 
pean traveller  is  of  course  tormented  by  them  to  an  extent  that 
will  almost  drive  sleep  from  his  eyes  and  slumber  from  his  eye-lids, 
however  wearied  he  may  be  with  the  journey  of  the  day. 

The  breath  of  the  congregated  animals  not  only  heats  and  steams 
their  own  apartments,  but  warms  that  also  in  which  the  family  re- 
sides, if  it  needs  more  warmth  than  is  furnished  by  their  oven  in 
cooking.  The  fuel  of  the  oven,  as  the  reader  will  have  in  mind,  is 
dried  manure.  These  subterranean  houses  are  naturally  warm  in 
winter,  and  serve  for  the  humble  peasants  who  occupy  them  a  tolera- 
bly good  purpose,  in  those  lofty,  cold  regions  ;  though  little  can  be 
said  in  favor  of  their  general  comfort,  and  less  for  their  cleanliness 
or  that  of  their  occupants.  They  are  built  contiguously,  for  the 
sake  of  common  defence  against  strolling  marauders ;  and  a  village 
presents  from  without  only  a  shapeless  mound,  with  the  small  coni- 
cal apertures,  rising  a  few  feet  above  the  surface,  and  corresponding 
in  number  to  the  separate  families  it  contains.  Almost  buried  in 
the  earth  as  these  villages  are,  they  are  conspicuous  only  at  a  mode- 
rate distance,  and  the  traveller  often  comes  upon  them  with  little 
previous  notice;  and  when  travelling  in  the  night,  his  first  know- 
ledge of  being  among  human  habitations  may  be,  that  he  finds  him- 
self with  the  animal  he  rides,  upon  the  roofs  of  their  houses.  We 
lingered  a  few  days,  after  the  Pasha  left  Erzroom,  in  accord- 
ance with  his  advice,  that  we  might  not  be  embarrassed  by  coming 
in  too  near  contact  with  his  army,  hoping  thus  to  be  able  to  proceed 
to  Persia  unimpeded  and  with  entire  security. 

July  15.  Having  engaged  an  Armenian  muleteer  belonging  to 
Moosh,  we  started  in  the  afternoon  and  rode  ten  miles,  crossing  the 
low  mountain-ridge  between  the  plain  of  Erzroom  and  that  of  Has- 
san-kulaah,  and  encamped  for  the  night,  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  any  village,  in  the  valley  of  Nabhee-chai,  {prophefs  river,) 
which,  though  dignified  with  so  venerable  a  name,  is  only  an  in- 
significant brook.  In  the  course  of  the  night,  a  heavy  thunder- 
shower  occurred.  The  rain  poured  down  in  torrents,  the  lightning 
glared  terribly  around  us,  and  the  awful  thunder  rolled  and  rever- 
berated along  the  lofty  ranges  of  limestone  mountains  on  either 
hand  and  shook  the  whole  country.    Our  fraiJ  tent,  though  fright- 


HASSAN-KULAAH  PASIN  RIVER  ARRAS. 


119 


fully  pelted  by  the  rain  and  wind,  still  survived  the  fury  of  the  ele- 
ments and  kept  us  dry,  and  we  felt  a  happy  security  in  our  solitary 
situation,  under  the  guardian  care  of  Him  who  rides  upon  the 
whirlwind  and  directs  the  storm. 

The  plain  of  Hassan-kulaah  is  even  larger  than  that  of  Erzroom, 
more  fertile  and  better  cultivated.  It  is  about  forty  miles  in  length 
and  from  six  to  ten  in  breadth.  The  western  part  is  almost  per- 
fectly level ;  the  eastern  is  more  or  less  undulating.  This  province 
is  called  Pasin.  It  is  the  ancient  P/iasiana.  "  The  beautiful 
birds,"  says  Butler,  "  which  we  call  pheasant,  still  preserve  in  their 
name  the  traces  of  their  native  country."  But  from  that  primitive 
land  of  our  common  ancestor,  Noah,  all  the  winged  tribe  of  course 
spread  themselves  over  the  face  of  the  earth  ;  and  I  know  not  what 
peculiar  claim  the  pheasant  has  to  it  as  a.  place  of  nativity. 

July  16.  We  proceeded  five  hours,  over  a  dead-level  plain,  to 
Hassan-kulaah.  Just  before  reaching  the  town,  we  crossed  a 
small  stream  and  passed  a  warm  spring,  which  is  enclosed  by  a  wall 
and  is  much  resorted  to  for  bathing.  Its  temperature  is  105°  Fah- 
renheit, and  similar  springs  boil  up  in  the  vicinity  on  both  sides  of 
the  stream.  This  small  river  is  a  tributary  of  the  Arras  (ancient 
Araxes).  The  latter  enters  the  plain  of  Hassan-kulaah,  a  few  miles 
beyond  the  town,  by  a  rocky  passage  from  the  mountain-range  that 
bounds  the  province  on  the  south,  and  there  changing  its  direction 
eastward  it  hastens  on  to  join  the  Cyrus  and  pour  its  waters,  into  the 
Caspian  sea.  Xenophon  called  this  river  by  the  same  name  with  the 
province — the  Phasis.  At  this  great  distance  from  the  sea,  and 
with  its  small  size,  (it  is  here  only  about  150  feet  wide,)  it  has  the 
characteristic  for  which  it  was  so  much  celebrated  by  the  ancients — 
a  very  rapid  current.  Virgil  denominates  it  the  'bridge-hater,' 
— Pontem  indignatus  Araxes — an  epithet  of  which  it  is  by  no 
means  unworthy  in  any  part  of  its  long  course, — at  least  so  much  of 
it  as  I  have  seen. 

The  town  of  Hassan-kulaah — the  ancient  Thedosiopolis,  is 
finely  situated  on  the  southern  side  of  a  mountain,  that  projects 
from  the  range  which  bounds  the  plain  on  the  north.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall,  which  was  originally  very  strong;  and  a  for- 
tress, perched  on  a  bold,  rocky,  conical  hill,  on  the  eastern  side, 
overlooks  the  town.  It  may  contain  from  four  to  five  thousand 
inhabitants,  now  mostly  Mahammedans,  the  Armenian  popu- 
lation having  been  taken  away  by  the  Russians.  Like  all  Turkish 
towns,  in  that  part  of  the  empire,  particularly  those  that  were  cap- 
tured by  the  Russian  army,  it  wears  a  sad  aspect  of  decay  and  dilapi- 
dation. 

Here  we  overtook  the  Turkish  army.  I  sent  Takvoor,  soon  af- 
ter reaching  the  town,  to  the  Pasha,  to  inquire  respecting  the  safety 
of  the  road;  and  his  Excellency  returned  a  request  that  I  should 
call  on  him  in  person.  I  did  so,  and  found  that  he  had  halted,  until 
he  should  considerably  augment  his  army,  under  apprehension  that 


120 


RETURN  OF  A  PRODIGAL  A  FOREST. 


the  Koords  were  much  more  than  a  match  for  hira ;  and  he  was 
now  still  more  unwilling  that  we  should  attempt  to  proceed  before 
him.  The  only  alternative  he  could  offer  us  was,  to  be  several 
weeks  in  performing  a  journey  of  a  few  days,  or  turn  off  into  the 
Russian  provinces,  travel  a  longer  route  and  encounter  a  tedious 
quarantine.  The  Pasha  kindly  furnished  us  with  a  guard  of  ten 
horsemen,  to  Kars,  which  is  about  150  miles  from  Erzroom,  with  a 
letter  to  the  governor  of  that  town,  directing  hira  to  do  the  same, 
and  provide  us  with  all  other  needed  aid,  until  we  should  reach  the 
Russian  frontier. 

July  17.    Thus  escorted,  we  left  Hassan-kulaah.    We  turned 
off  from  the  Tabreez  road,  about  a  mile  beyond  the  town,  bearing 
away  under  the  northern  ridge  of  mountains,  in  a  direction  of  east 
by  north.    The  post-route  to  Kars  follows  the  Tabreez  road  to  the 
river  Arras,  about  ten  miles  farther,  where  the  latter  crosses  the 
stream  by  a  beautiful  stone  bridge  of  very  ancient  (perhaps  Roman) 
construction,  and  the  former  skirts  the  northern  shore.    We  rode 
six  hours,  our  way  being  mostly  level,  and  pitched  our  tent  near 
a  small  Armenian  village.    Just  before  evening,  an  interesting  in- 
cident occurred  among  the  villagers.    A  filthy  strolling  fellow  came 
from  the  east,  and  "  when  he  was  yet  a  great  way  off,"  a  company 
ran  from  the  village  and  "fell  on  his  neck  and  kissed  him;"  and 
an  aged  female  raised  so  shrill  and  pla:intive  a  cry,  that  I  inquired 
with  concern  what  could  be  the  cause  of  her  distress,  and  to  my 
surprise  was  told  that  it  was  only  a  cry  of  joy;  for  this  her  "son 
had  been  dead  and  was  alive  again  ;  he  had  been  lost  and  was 
found."    The  young  man  had  wandered  away  with  the  Russians, 
when  they  invaded  this  part  of  Turkey,  and  had  now  for  the  first 
time  come  back.    The  return  of  the  prodigal  to  his  father's  house, 
in  the  parable  of  our  Lord  was  vividly  illustrated,  by  this  simple, 
unrestrained  gush  of  parental  affection  in  the  oriental  mother. 

July  18.  We  travelled  over  an  undulating  country,  but  partially 
cultivated,  our  road  lying  in  the  same  general  direction  as  yester- 
day; rode  eight  hours  and  encamped  on  a  large  brook,  in  a  deep 
glen,  near  a  xVIuhammedan  village.  Our  Turkish  guard  compelled 
the  poor  villagers  to  cut  grcm  wheat  from  a  small  thrifty  patch — the 
only  piece  to  be  seen — for  their  horses ;  and  they  proposed  to  fur- 
nish the  same  for  the  horses  of  our  muleteer,  but  I  forbade  them. 
Such  is  the  lawless  abuse  which  government  messengers  feel  at  full 
liberty  to  practise  on  the  defenceless  peasantry,  in  this  land  of  op- 
pression. 

July  19.  Rising  from  the  glen  in  which  we  had  passed  the  night, 
we  rode  over  a  lofty  table-land,  bounded  on  the  north  by  broken 
mountain  masses  lower  than  itself,  presenting  a  very  wild  and  strik- 
ing appearance,  as  if  they  had  been  violently  convulsed,  rent  asun- 
der, and  piled  together  in  the  utmost  disorder.  This  table-land 
was  succeeded  by  one  of  the  most  interesting  objects  we  saw  on  our 
journey, — a  vast  forest.    The  Turli.sh  muleteer's  prediction,  that 


COURAGE  OF  THE  GUARD  KARS. 


121 


no  forest  would  again  occur  on  our  way,  after  leaving  the  one  near 
Trebizond,  would  have  proved  true,  had  we  followed  the  direct 
route  to  Tabreez  ;  for  this  is  the  only  forest  in  all  that  part  of  Tur- 
key. It  contains  many  hundreds  of  acres,  and  is  thickly  covered 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  noble  firs.  It  furnishes  timber  for  the  roofs 
of  all  the  houses  at  Erzroom  and  even  westward,  and  over  an  equal 
extent  of  country  in  every  direction.  Vast  quantities  of  fuel  are 
also  carried  from  it  to  Erzroom,  on  rude  o.x-carts,  a  distance  of 
more  than  a  hundred  miles.  It  was  very  refreshing,  after  having 
travelled  so  long,  over  naked  mountains,  to  enter  once  more  the 
cool  shade  of  this  extensive  forest.  Toward  its  eastern  extremity, 
we  descended  a  Jong,  steep  declivity,  which  at  its  termination  opens 
into  magnificent  meadows,  then  waving  with  rank  grass;  and  these 
gradually  widened  into  the  fine  valley  of  Kars,  the  town  being  still 
out  of  sight  and  a  day's  journey  beyond. 

Our  guard  expressed  strong  apprehension  of  danger,  to-day,  being 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Koords;  and  a  company  of  horse- 
men  appearing  ahead,  whom  they  supposed  to  be  Jellalees,  they 
hastily  put  themselves  in  battle  array.  On  coming  up,  however, 
the  supposed  foe  proved  to  be  Armenian  merchants,  on  their  way  to 
Erzroom,  who  in  turn,  regarding  us  as  robbers,  had  also  shouldered 
their  muskets.  And  at  the  village  where  we  stopped,  we  were  in- 
formed, that,  on  the  preceding  night,  a  company  of  Jellalees  had 
come  to  a  village  two  miles  distant  and  stolen  a  number  of  horses. 
Our  timorous  escort  were  brave  enough,  when  out  of  the  reach  of 
danger.  As  soon  as  we  cleared  the  dreaded  region,  to-day,  by 
emerging  from  the  great  forest,  they  boldly  discharged  their  mus- 
kets and  shouted  their  defiance  of  all  the  Koords  in  the  empire. 
They  were  armed  with  swords,  pistols  and  long  spears,  and  often 
amused  us  by  prancing  over  the  country  and  brandishing  their  wea- 
pons, in  genuine  Parthian  style;  but  no  sooner  did  a  Koord  make 
his  appearance,  or  was  danger  apprehended,  than  the  crest  of  their 
courage  fell. 

July  20.  We  travelled  over  an  undulating  cultivated  region,  in 
an  east  by  north  direction,  and  reached  the  town  of  Kars.  This 
town,  like  HXssan-kuIaah,  is  situated  on  the  southern  declivity  of  a 
mouivtain-range  which  bounds  the  adjacent  plain  on  the  north;  and 
it  is  overlooked  by  a  strong  citadel  in  the  rear.  Its  situation  is 
grand  and  imposing;  but  it  will  ill  bear  inspection,  the  houses — 
mostly  of  stone — being  in  a  state  of  dilapidation  and  some  of  them 
forsaken,  by  the  removal  of  the  Armenian  part  of  the  population. 
A  small  river — the  Akhoorean — intersects  the  lower  part  of  the 
town,  which  is  crossed  by  two  arched  stone  bridges.  I  found  it 
very  difficult  at  Kars,  as  elsewhere,  to  satisfy  myself  in  regard  to 
the  number  of  the  population  ;  but  judged  there  might  be  from  six 
to  eight  thousand. 

On  our  arrival,  I  sent  Takvoor  to  the  governor,  with  the  letter 
from  the  Pasha.    The  governor  stated  that  the  road  from  Kars  to 

16 


122 


TURKISH  HOSPITAX.ITY  WEEDING  DAT. 


the  frontier  was  entirely  safe,  we  therefore  declined  the  proffered 
guard  ;  but  he  insisted  that  as  the  Pashd  had  directed  him  to  furnish 
us  with  ten  men,  he  could  not  do  less  than  send  us  two.  At  his  ur- 
gent request,  we  accordingly  took  with  us  two  men  as  guides.  The 
governor  of  Kars  appeared  extremely  kind;  and,  as  he  was  person- 
ally acquainted  with  the  governor  of  Giimry,  the  Russian  frontier 
town,  he  proposed  to  write  to  the  latter,  commending  us  to  his  par- 
ticular kindness  and  aid.  I  thanked  him  for  the  generous  proposal, 
and  he  accordingly  prepared  a  letter,  in  which  he  stated  to  the  gov- 
ernor of  Giimry,  that  ray  boxes  had  passed  every  custom  house  on 
•our  route  in  Turkey,  unopened,  being  known  to  contain  nothing 
subject  to  duty  •,  he  requested,  therefore,  that  they  should  not  all  be 
opened  at  the  Russian  frontier,  as  it  would  subject  us  to  much  un- 
necessary trouble ;  and  that,  as  we  were  driven  that  way  by  an  un- 
expected emergency,  our  quarantine  might  be  somewhat  shortened. 
But  this  friendly  precaution  of  the  Turkish  magistrate  proved  as 
unavailing  with  his  Russian  neighbor,  as  it  was  kind  and  thoughtful 
on  his  part. 

As  we  are  soon  to  take  our  leave  of  the  Turks  for  the  present,  I 
would  bid  them  a  grateful  farewell.  I  have  spoken  of  the  treatment 
which  we  received  from  them,  in  terms  of  commendation;  and 
though,  before  reaching  the  end  of  our  journey  our  strength,  faith 
and  patience  were  sorely  tried,  it  was  from  causes,  as  will  be  seen, 
not  at  all  to  militate  against  what  I  have  said  relative  to  travelling 
in  Turkey.  Indeed,  my  estimation  of  the  generosity  and  hospitality 
of  the  Turks  was  constantly  increased,  the  more  I  saw  of  them,  till 
I  left  their  country. 

July  21.  We  proceeded,  seven  hours,  over  the  great  plain  of 
Kars,  our  direction  continuing  east  by  north,  and  stopped  for  the 
night  near  a  small  Mdhammedan  village,  situated  a  mile  south  of 
the  road,  which  was  the  only  village  we  saw  that  day. 

The  part  of  the  plain  wliicli  we  crossed  is  extremely  fertile,  but 
entirely  uncultivated,  its  former  Armenian  inhabitants  having  fol- 
lowed the  Russians  into  Georgia ;  and  their  rude  villages  were  now 
in  ruins,  as  well  as  level  with  the  ground.  The  fair  country  waved 
under  a  heavy  growth  of  grass,  which  stretched  away  many  miles 
in  every  direction,  in  wild,  rank  luxuriance,  undisturbed  alike  by 
the  mower's  scythe,  or  the  footsteps  of  a  grazing  flock  or  herd.  I 
never  saw  finer  horses,  cattle  or  sheep,  in  any  place  in  the  East,  nor 
in  larger  numbers,  than  I  noticed  at  Kars  ;  and  the  extreme  fertility 
of  this  province  may  be  inferred  from  the  fact,  that  these  were 
abundantly  supplied  with  forage,  both  in  summer  and  for  the  long 
winter,  aud  so  many  thousands  of  acres  of  excellent  grass  still  al- 
lowed to  wither  and  fall  to  the  ground. 

This  was  the  first  anniversary  of  our  wedding-clay  ;  and,  a  heavy 
thunder-storm  occurring  at  evening,  just  about  the  hour  of  our  mar- 
riage, clothing  the  heavens  and  earth  with  almost  unwonted  darkness 
and  gloom,  and  beating  and  shaking  our  tent  well  nigh  to  pieces — 


ENTERING  GEORGIA  GUMRY. 


123 


afforded  a  vivid  contrast  in  our  lonely  cheerless  situation,  to  our  cir- 
cumstances one  year  ago,  when,  happy  at  home,  we  were  sur- 
rounded by  kindred  and  friends.  Happiness,  however,  has  no  locali- 
ties. Like  the  kingdom  of  heaven,  if  it  be  ours  at  all,  it  is  within 
us — independent,  to  a  great  extent,  of  place  and  external  circum- 
stances. 

July  22.  We  rode  six  hours  over  an  undulating  country,  but 
more  cultivated  than  the  plain  which  we  crossed  yesterday,  and 
reached  the  Russian  frontier,  distant  from  Kars  about  forty-five 
miles.  The  Arpd  chai  (Barley  river),  a  considerable  stream,  a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Arras,  here  forms  the  boundary.  We  were  directed  to 
stop  on  the  Turkish  bank,  until  a  messenger  should  be  sent  for- 
ward to  the  town  of  Giirary,  about  two  miles  distant,  to  procure 
permission  for  us  to  cross  the  frontier.  The  messenger  returned  in 
about  an  hour, — we  and  our  companions  meanwhile  sitting  upon  the 
green  grass,  in  expectation;  and  after  our  names,  destination,  ob- 
ject, etc.  were  minutely  taken  down,  we  were  permitted  to  cross  the 
river  and  found  ourseli'es  in  Georgia.  As  we  proceeded  to  the 
quarantine  ground,  which  is  near  the  town,  we  were  met  by  an  of- 
ficer who  demanded  our  passports.  Fortunately,  (or  rather  unfor- 
tunately, for  it  was  on  the  strength  of  this  that  I  ventured  on  that 
route,)  I  had  procured  a  passport  from  the  Russian  ambassador  at 
Constantinople,  without  which  it  would  have  been  impossible  for 
me  to  enter  the  country.  Twice  afterward,  the  same  day,  our  names 
were  all  taken  down — servant  and  muleteers  aotexcepted-^and  num- 
berless inquiries  repeated,  even  to  disgusting  minuteness,  relative  to 
my  profession,  our  object  in  travelling  here,  etc. ;  and  every  letter 
which  we  had  in  charge,  to  be  delivered  at  Tabreez,  or  elsewhere, 
was  demanded,  to  be  retained  by  the  governor,  until  our  departure. 

Giimry  is  a  considerable  Armenian  town,  to  which  much  impor- 
tance is  attached  by  the  Russian  government,  on  account  of  its 
boundary  position.  A  strong  fort  is  now  in  process  of  erection 
near  the  town,  and  a  number  of  Russians  and  Germans,  removing 
in  and  commingling  with  the  native  inhabitants,  give  to  the  mass  a 
semi-European  appearance.  The  familiar  agricultural  utensils 
which  met  our  eyes  on  entering  the  Czar's  dominions, — the  labo- 
rers, with  shaved  faces,  tidily  garbed  in  linen  frocks  and  trowsers 
and  straw  hats,  briskly  swinging  the  scythe  and  the  cradle,  plying 
the  rake  and  the  pitchfork  and  carting  in  the  harvest,  were  a  grate- 
ful contrast  to  the  rude  instruments  of  husbandry  and  the  grotesque 
costume  which  we  had  long  witnessed.  But  our  agreeable  emo- 
tions, thus  excited  at  first,  were  soon  sadly  dispersed,  by  the  treat- 
ment which  we  received,  and  which  caused  us  to  wish,  a  thousand 
times,  that  we  could  exchange  those  familiar  scenes  for  the  superior 
civility  and  kindness  which  we  had  uniformly  experienced  in  '  bar- 
barous Turkey.'  We  had  not  been  long  in  quarantine,  when  we 
found,  that  a  [nost  dreary  campaign  was  before  us.  We  were  situ- 
ated in  a  hollow,  on  the  bank  of  a  small  muddy  brook.    Six  or  eight 


1 


124  QUARANTINE  RIGOR  FARE. 

dozen  of  geese  thronged  us  on  every  side  ;  flies,  like  the  swarms  of 
Egypt,  flocked  into  our  tent,  to  devour  us  and  our  provisions  ;  sand, 
from  the  surrounding  sun-burnt  hills,  sifted  upon  us,  on  every 
breeze;  and  a  stench,  from  animals  that  had  died  during  quaran- 
tine, their  bodies  being  left  unburied,  annoyed  us  sometimes  al- 
most to  suflTocation.  Tlie  constant  wrangling,  too,  at  the  quaran* 
tine  buildings,  was  frightful.  During  the  seven  moftths  which  we 
spent  in  Turkey,  I  had  seen  the  infliction  of  blows  in  only  a  solitary 
instance.  But  during  our  quarantine,  scarcely  a  day  passed  with- 
out bringing  with  it  instances  of  flogging,  within  a  few  rods  of  our 
tent;  and  some  of  them,  I  should  judge,  must  have  been  well  nigh 
mortal.  Never  before  was  I  so  heart- sickened  with  the  rale  of  brutal 
force.  Every  little  quarantine  irregularity,  without  judge  or  jury, 
seemed  to  incur  the  rigor  of  the  lash  or  club  from  a  boorish  Rus- 
sian, or  oftener  from  some  other  civilized  European  in  the  Russian 
service.  With  provisions  we  wefe  miserably  furnished.  Often  we 
\vere  unable  to  procure  a  morsel  until  afternoon ;  and  in  one  or 
two  instances,  we  could  obtain  none,  during  the  whole  day.  And 
when  it  came,  it  was  the  most  wretched  in  kind.  If  milk,  it  was 
generally  sour ;  and  if  eggs,  they  were  repeatedly  far  more  than  stale. 
And  Takvoor,  so  far  from  remonstrating  with  the  person  whose  bu- 
siness it  was  to  furnish  us  with  provisions,  seeing  those  around  us  so 
wantonly  flogged,  feared  to  utter  a  word. 

On  the  second  day  of  our  quarantine,  our  eflfects  were  carried  off 
to  be  fumigated,  and  we  were  left,  all  day,  without  even  a  mat  to 
spread  down  in  our  tent.  My  boxes,  on  which  I  had  bestowed  al- 
most endless  toil, — having  constructed  them  with  my  own  hands  at 
Constantinople,  that  I  might  be  certain  of  securing  my  books  and 
other  effects  from  wear  and  weather,  during  their  long  land-con- 
veyance,— Were  every  one  rudely  split  open  and  broken  to  pieces 
even,  and  their  contents  strown  over  the  smoke-house ;  and  thus 
they  were  made  to  lie,  during  the  whole  period  of  our  quarantine. 

As  much  labor  was  necessary  to  put  our  boxes  again  in  portable 
ordet,  I  sent  a  request  to  the  custom-house  officer,  that  he  would 
call  at  the  quarantine  buildings  and  look  at  our  eflfects,  where  they 
were  then  aJl  exposed,  that  my  servant  might  afterwards  do  some- 
thing towards  putting  them  in  readiness,  and  we  not  be  long  de- 
tained, after  our  protracted  quarantine  should  be  completed.  But 
the  peremptory  answef  returned,  was,  that  my  boxes  must  lie  there 
open  until  our  quarantine  was  over,  and  then  be  closed,  sent  to  the 
custom-house  and  reopened.  I  requested  that  I  might  see  the  cus- 
tom-house officer,  and  explain  to  him  more  fully  our  circumstances; 
but  the  reply  in  this  instance  was,  that  he  was  busy  and  could  not 
see  me;  though  I  afterwards  found  that  he  was  accustomed  to  walk 
daily  very  near  our  tent. 

During  the  many  long,  hot  days  of  our  confinement,  we  endea- 
vored to  keep  ourselves  quiet  and  pass  our  time  to  the  best  advan- 
tage our  circumstances  would  permit.    Very  little  occurred,  as  day 


PASTORAL  LIFE — CUStOM-HOUSE  OFFICER.  125 


succeeded  day,  to  diversify  the  cheerless  scene.  I  only  find,  re- 
corded in  my  notes,  that,  on  July  30lli  a  heavy  thunder-storm  oc- 
curred, which,  as  in  previous  instances,  our  tent  happily  survived 
and  kept  us  nearly  dry;  and  that,  on  the  31st  a  Nornade  Koordish 
tribe,  of  several  hundred  individuals,  passed  by,  from  the  province 
of  Erivan.  They  had  become  so  thievish  and  troublesome,  that  the 
Russian  authorities  disinherited  them,  and  a  guard  was  now  con- 
ducting them  to  the  Turkish  frontier,  to  seal  their  expatriation, 
The  motliness,  filthiness  and  wretchedness  of  their  appearance  sur- 
passed description.  All  miserably  clad  and  many  of  them  naked,  ex- 
cept a  few  shreds  of  a  tattered  garment  about  the  middle, — sun-burnt 
to  the  complexion  of  Mulattoes, — the  children  crymg  and  fighting — 
the  men  and  women  quarrelling, — their  cows  and  calves  bellowing, 
and  hens  in  their  coops  cackling, — and  all  cowering  as  if  ashamed  to 
meet  the  eye  of  an  honest  man  and  afraid  of  the  light  of  day,  they 
presented  to  us  a  novel  and  most  affecting  exhibition  of  the  real, 
rather  than  poetical,  charms  of  pastoral  life. 

Aug.  5.  To  our  no  small  joy,  our  fourteen  days  of  quarantine 
were  completed.  In  the  morning,  Takvoor  and  our  servant  and 
muleteers  were  summoned  to  appear  before  the  governor  for  exami- 
nation. Mrs.  P.  and  myself  were,  as  matter  of favor,  we  were  told, 
excused  from  that  ordeal.  The  governor  stated  to  Takvoor,  that 
he  had  given  direction  to  the  first  officer  of  the  custom-house  de-* 
partment,  to  despatch  our  efiects  with  all  possible  haste,  that  we 
might  proceed  on  our  journey,  without  any  delay.  We  therefore 
slightly  put  up  our  boxes,  which  were  still  lying  open,  in  the  build- 
ings where  they  were  fumigated,  hired  a  cart  and  carried  them  im- 
mediately to  the  custom-house.  To  facilitate  the  inspection,  I  ac- 
companied them,  taking  with  me  our  muleteers  and  servant,  and 
leaving  Mrs.  P.  alone  in  our  tent,  not  doubting  that  the  business 
would  be  completed  and  we  able  to  proceed,  in  the  course  of  two 
hours.  But  I  had  no  sooner  met  the  countenance  of  the  custom- 
house officer  than  I  apprehended  trouble.  He  received  me  sullenly 
and  uncivilly ;  and,  as  I  thought,  was  much  offended  with  the  com- 
munication which  he  had  received  from  the  governor,  respecting  the 
examination  of  my  boxes.  His  appearance  seemed  to  say,  "You 
and  the  governor  too  shall  know,  that  /  am  at  the  head  of  this  de- 
partment." By  way  of  apology,  for  this  officer,  I  may  say  that,  if 
I  mistake  not,  in  him  a  very  malevolent  disposition  was  but  ill  af- 
fected by  his  ardent  devotion  at  the  shrine  of  Bacchus.  After  lin- 
gering about,  sometime,  he  applied  himself  to  the  business  of  exam- 
ining my  boxes.  He  first  directed  that  a  list  of  all  my  books  should 
be  taken.  This  appeared  very  little  like  "despatch."  I  told  him 
that  I  had  a  full  list  in  English,  which  I  would  leave  with  him,  but 
that  would  not  suffice.  We  had  not  proceeded  far,  however,  before 
he  became  himself  weary  of  that  manoeuvre.  We  began  with 
"Poole's  Synopsis."  "  What  is  Poole's  Synopsis?"  he  inquired. 
"  We  do  not  know  the  Russian;  that  is  the  English,"  was  our  re- 


126  INSPECTION  OF  EFFECTS  DECISION. 


ply,  and  so  on.  And  the  task  of  attempting  to  represent  so  many 
and  such  strange  English  words,  the  meaning  of  which  he  knew 
nothing,  in  Russian  syllables,  was  so  formidable,  that  he  abandoned 
the  undertaking. 

He  next  applied  himself,  with  four  or  five  insolent  Armenians,  to 
the  examination  of  my  medicine-chest.  Every  paper  and  vial  was 
taken  out  and  opened,  and  every  Iierb  smelled  of,  and  their  names 
required  to  be  stated.  A  small  paper  of  tapioca  was  laid  out  as 
subject  to  duty.  And  on  my  stating  that  it  was  merely  an  article  of 
nutriment  for  the  road,  he  waived  the  examination,  and  sent,  as  he 
said,  for  the  pht/sician  to  sit  in  judgment  upon  the  medicine-chest. 
After  some  time,  a  man,  whom  they  dignified  with  the  name  of 
physician  came,  and  together,  they  resumed  the  examination.  Pa- 
per after  paper  was  reopened, — all  stared,  wondered  and  exulted 
like  Vandals,  and  were  highly  delighted  with  such  novel  entertain- 
ment. On  coming  to  a  paper  of  oat-meal,  put  up  for  gruel  in  case 
of  sea-sickness,  on  the  ocean,  the  physician  gravely  pronounced  it 
magnesia!  And  when  he  had  passed  through  the  whole  in  the 
same  barbarous  manner,  he  magisterially  pronounced  his  opinion, — 
in  the  Russian  tongue  which  I  of  course  could  not  understand, — 
and  retired. 

The  officer  next  came  to  Mrs.  Perkins'  boxes  of  clothing.  Eve- 
ry article — the  smallest  even — was  rudely  taken  out  and  torn  open, 
and  the  minute  inspection  of  a  lady's  dresses  was  made,  by  all,  for  a 
long  lime,  a  scene  of  jovial  recreation.  Unfinished  garments  and 
all  small  remnants  of  garments,  were  laid  aside,  I  supposed,  as 
intended  to  be  made  subject  to  duty.  I  reminded  the  officer,  that 
we  were  in  the  greatest  conceivable  haste  to  proceed,  and  the  gov- 
ernor had  promised  that  we  should  not  be  long  delayed  at  the  cus- 
tom-house ;  but  he  only  replied,  "  I  know  my  own  business."  Tak- 
voor  wept  and  said  that  he  had  never  before  seen  a  European  treated 
so, — that  the  Turks  do  indeed  sometimes  treat  raya/15  (christian  sub- 
jects) in  a  similar  manner.  But  the  barbarity  of  the  Russians  had 
so  frightened  him,  that  he  dared  not  utter  a  word  of  firm  remon- 
strance from  me,  much  as  I  urged  him  to  do  so,  He  was  afraid 
that  he  too  might  feel  the  rigor  of  their  lash. 

It  was  now  past  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  dinner  being 
announced,  the  business  was  suspended.  I  returned  to  our  tent, 
hear-isick,  compelled  to  abandon  the  idea  of  leaving  that  day.  In 
the  course  of  the  afternoon,  I  went  two  or  three  times  to  the  custom- 
house, but  the  officer  did  not  return  until  just  before  evening,  and 
then  passed  by  from  a  walk,  without  uttering  a  word,  and  retired  to 
his  dwelling.  A  clerk  at  length  came  and  looked  at  the  remaining 
boxes,  all  of  which  our  servant  had  opened,  that  he  might  facilitate 
the  business;  and  after  a  short  conferetice  with  the  officer,  the  lat- 
ter came  out  and  peremptorily  announced,  that  all  our  boxes,  except 
those  containing  our  wearing  apparel  and  a  few  articles  for  the  road — 
all  my  books,  my  medicine-chest,  box  of  tools,  etc. — must  go  back 


EMBARRASSMENT. 


127 


into  Tiirlcey,  being  European  goods  which  were  not  permitted  to  be 
brought  into  Russia.  I  tried  to  remonstrate  with  him  and  assured 
him  that  nearly  all  the  books  were  my  private  library — they  were  in 
their  cases  before  him — not  one  in  a  language  spoken  in  Russia; 
and  that  the  medicine  and  all  the  other  articles  were  only  for  the 
road  and  domestic  use.  Admitting  even  that  our  effects  had  been 
goods  and  intended  for  sale,  which,  however,  he  knew  was  not  the 
fact,  it  was  in  his  power  to  put  his  seal  upon  the  boxes  and  allow 
them  to  pass  unopened  through  the  country ;  and  this  was  all  that 
we  desired.    But  he  merely  reiterated,  "  the  boxes  must  go  back." 

Our  horses  had  been  enffaged  at  Erzroora  for  the  whole  route  to 
Tabreez.  And,  after  having  encountered  the  long,  tedious  and  ex- 
pensive quarantine,  the  muleteers  would  not  abate  a  farthing  from 
the  stipulated  price,  even  though  the  animals  were  to  proceed,  un- 
loaded ;  nor  would  they  now  consent  to  allow  any  of  the  horses  to 
return  with  the  prohibited  boxes  to  Erzroom,  as  they  wished  to  keep 
them  together  and  load  them  all  for  the  other  route  at  Tabreez. 
But  in  vain  did  T  remind  the  officer  of  the  immense  trouble  and  ex- 
pense to  which  his  oppressive  course  would  subject  us.  Pie  still, 
with  malignant  exultation,  reiterated,  "your  boxes  must  go  back." 
Finding  him  thus  determined  on  oppression,  I  told  Takvoor  to  go 
to  the  governor,  state  our  case  and  ask  him  what  we  should  do. 
He  did  so ;  and  the  governor  professed  deeply  to  regret  that  we 
were  thus  embarrassed,  but  was  unwilling  to  canvass  the  matter  and 
dismissed  Takvoor  by  telling  him,  that  he  must  accompany  me  as 
far  as  Nakchevan,  exhibit  our  passports  both  there  and  at  Erivan, 
and  then  return  to  Giimry,  hire  another  muleteer  and  horses,  and 
take  the  prohibited  boxes — amounting  to  six  loads — back  to  Erz- 
room. Apprehending  that  further  remonstrance  might  excite  the 
custom-house  officer  to  a  degree  that  would  lead  him  to  seize  and 
destroy  my  library,  which  it  would  be  nearly  impossible  here  to  re- 
place, I  concluded  to  yield. 

Aug.  6-  I  rose  early,  and  closed  the  few  boxes  that  were  to  pro- 
ceed with  us.  They  were  ready  about  10  o'clock,  A.  M.,  and  our 
tent  and  beds  which  we  were  told  were  also  subject  to  inspection, 
were  carried  to  the  custom-house, — Mrs.  P.  and  myself,  our  mule- 
teers and  the  servants  at  the  same  time  presenting  ourselves.  I  sent 
repeatedly  to  the  officer,  requesting  him  to  come  and  look  at  the  re- 
maining things,  and  return  my  passports  which  he  had  taken  posses- 
sion of,  the  day  previous ;  but  the  answer  as  oflen  was,  that  he  "  was 
not  yet  ready  to  be  seen."  About  1  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  he 
came  out,  examined  our  tent  and  bed ;  and,  after  waiving  my  re- 
quest for  my  passports,  an  hour  longer,  said  that  /might  proceed; 
but  Takvoor  must  wait  for  my  passports,  as  he  could  not  then  give 
them  up. 

I  requested  hira,  out  of  compassion  to  Mrs.  P.  to  permit  us  to  take 
with  us  our  medicine-chest,  as  I  feared  to  have  a  lady  proceed,  on 
our  long  and  toilsome  journey,  without  an  article  of  medicine.  And 


128  JOURNEY  RESUMED  CHANGE  OF  CLIMATE. 


after  much  entreaty  both  from  myself  and  Mrs.  P.  he  stiid  we  might 
take  it.  But  when  our  servant  had  put  it  nearly  in  readiness  to  pro- 
ceed, the  officer  came  out  and  ordered  it  to  be  put  back  again  among 
the  prohibited  boxes.  Tired  of  being  thus  tantalized,  and  glad  to 
escape,  on  any  condition,  we  then  went  on,  leaving  Takvoor  and 
our  passport?  behind.  We  rode  twelve  miles,  across  the  plain  which 
stretches  to  the  eastward  of  Giimry,  and  stopped  at  the  small  village 
of  Haman  for  the  night. 

Aug.  7.  We  started  at  daybreak,  our  course  now  changing  to 
east  by  south  and  south-east,  and  continuing  in  the  same  general 
direction  all  the  remaining  part  of  our  journey.  In  the  absence  of 
Takvoor,  our  Persian  servant,  a  singularly  energetic  fellow  for  an 
Asiatic,  assumed  the  prerogative  of  dictating,  and  would  not  allow 
the  muleteers  to  stop  short  of  the  village  of  Aberan,  making  a  ride 
of  near  forty  miles.  Mrs.  P.  was  very  tired  when  we  reached  our 
tent,  having  been  on  her  horse  all  day,  except  that  in  one  instance 
when  she  had  nearly  fainted  from  fatigue,  she  lay  down  a  few  min- 
utes by  the  road-side.  About  half  of  our  ride,  to-day,  lay  across 
the  Alagez  range  of  mountains,  and  the  air  was  cool  and  delightful. 
The  higher  peaks,  on  our  right,  were  capped  with  eternal  snow. 
Descending  the  mountain,  we  entered  a  valley  which  runs  directly 
toward  the  celebrated  convent  of  Echmiadzen — the  ecclesiastical 
metropolis  of  the  Armenians.  Late  in  the  evening,  Takvoor  reach- 
ed us,  stating  that  the  custom-house  officer  would  not  give  up  the 
passports,  until  9  o'clock,  A.  M.,  nor  then,  short  of  T's  giving  him 
five  dollars  for  a  paper,  certifying  that  the  things  which  we  took 
with  us  had  been  examined,  and  a  valuable  cap,  from  his  own  head, 
as  a  friendly  memento  ! 

Aug.  8.  We  started  at  4  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  the  Per- 
sian servant  again  going  forward,  did  not  stop  with  our  tent  until 
he  reached  Erivan, — a  distance  even  greater  than  we  travelled  yes- 
terday. We  were  on  our  horses  eleven  hours.  Soon  after  starting 
this  morning,  we  crossed  a  small  stream  which  runs  down  the 
valley  that  we  entered  yesterday ;  we  then  rose  and  passed  over 
broken  elevations,  and  gradually  descended  to  the  river  Zengy, 
which  is  an  out-let  of  lake  Sevan,  and  like  all  the  streams  that  we 
had  passed  after  leaving  Erzroom,  is  a  tributary  of  the  Arras.  It 
runs  near  the  city  of  Erivan,  has  high  steep  banks,  and  a  very  rapid 
angry  current,  though  it  is  only  about  seventy  feet  wide  where  we 
crossed  it  by  a  fine  stone  bridge.  Rising  from  this  river,  we  passed 
over  a  commanding  hill,  which  was  gratefully  crowned  with  several 
charming,  thrifty  orchards;  and  from  this  elevation,  we  descended, 
by  a  long  circuitous  road,  to  the  town  of  Erivan,  which  lies  at  its 
southern  base  far  down  on  the  plain  below.  The  change  of  climate, 
in  descending,  was  surprising, — quite  like  going  from  a  temperate 
into  the  torrid  zone.  We  had  left  the  cool  mountain  air  which  we 
had  so  long  inhaled,  on  the  lofty  heights  of  Armenia,  and  found 
ourselves  suddenly  transported  to  the  almost  suffocating  sultriness 


FRUIT  MT.  ARARAT  ERIVAN. 


129 


of  a  tropical  sun.  Though  Erivan  was  long  the  capital  of  ancient 
Armenia,  the  city  and  its  surrounding  villages  are  altogether  Per- 
sian in  appearance.  The  subterranean,  stone-walled  houses  re- 
mained back  in  the  cold  regions  to  which  they  were  adapted  ■,  and 
here,  the  dwellings  are  of  mud  walls,  or  sun-dried  brick,  built  above 
the  ground  and  neatly  plastered  over  on  the  outside,  with  a  mixture 
of  mud  and  straw.  Indeed,  Erivan  is  Persian,  in  its  inhabitants 
and  character  ;  and,  till  the  war  of  1828,  it  was  a  part  of  the  Persian 
empire.  In  its  markets,  we  were  greeted  with  an  ample  abundance 
of  fine  ripe  fruit ;  and  we  indulged  ourselves  as  soon  as  possible  and 
as  long  as  we  dared,  with  apples,  apricots,  plums,  grapes  and  water- 
melons. 

During  our  ride  to-day,  the  lofty,  hoary  Ararat  was  in  full  view 
to  the  south  and  south-west.  Never  before  had  I  beheld  an  object 
of  such  impressive  sublimity.  This  mountain  is  altogether  unique 
in  its  appearance,  rising  like  a  mighty  pyramid  from  the  general 
range  and  gradually  tapering  till  it  pierces  and  peers  above  the  clouds. 
It  is  between  sixteen  and  seventeen  thousand  feet  high.  Little  Ara- 
rat near  it  rises  modestly  like  its  junior  to  about  the  height  of  13,000 
feet.  Though  we  were  sixty  or  seventy  jniles  distant  from  the  ven- 
erable mountain,  in  the  morning,  it  appeared  to  be  within  five  or 
six  miles  of  us,  and  as  familiar  from  my  previous  conceptions  of  it, 
or  from  some  inexplicable  cause,  as  an  old  acquaintance.  It  rises 
from  a  majestic  curve,  in  the  great  range,  a  sublime  corner  bounda- 
ry of  the  three  empires  of  Persia,  Turkey  and  Russia,  and  full 
worthy  to  be  the  bridge  between  the  antediluvian  and  postdiluvian 
worlds. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


JOURNEY  FROM  ERIVAN  TO  TABREEZ. 

Erivan  is  a  town  that  figures  in  both  Armenian  and  Persian  his- 
tory. It  was,  for  a  considerable  period,  the  capital  of  Armenia. 
At  present  it  is  unwalled  and  apparently  in  a  state  of  decay.  It  is 
supposed  to  contain  about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  one  third  of 
whom  may  be  Armenians.  There  is  an  imposing  citadel,  on  a  hill 
of  moderate  elevation  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  town, 
bordering  also  on  the  river  Zengy,  whose  high,  abrupt  banks  add 
much  to  its  apparent  strength.  Prince  Abbas  Meerza  hardly  made 
his  escape  from  this  citadel,  in  1828,  when  Erivan  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Russians. 

The  great  plain  of  Erivan  and  the  valley  of  the  Arras  below,  be- 


130 


VALLEY  OF  THE  ARRAS  ARMENIAN  PRIEST. 


ing  hemmed  in  by  the  elevations  which  I  have  described  on  the 
north,  and  the  Ararat  mountain  range  on  the  west,  have  in  summer 
a  singular  concentration  of  heat,  and  a  mild  climate,  for  that  region, 
during  the  whole  year.  The  country  extending  from  Erivan  to 
Nakchevan,  a  distance  of  a  hundred  miles,  is  beautiful,  and  the  soil 
is  extremely  fertile.  Its  fruits  are  very  abundant  and  excellent  ; 
but,  as  in  most  such  countries,  the  climate  is  very  unhealthy.  The 
poor  Armenians,  who  were  enticed  into  those  provinces  by  the  Rus- 
sians, from  their  more  healthy  homes  in  Turkey  and  Persia,  have 
died  in  great  numbers.  And  the  pale,  sickly  survivors  would 
gladly  exchange  their  present  situation  for  the  rigor  of  their  former 
vassalage  to  Muharamedans,  could  they  evade  Russian  vigilance 
and  effect  their  escape. 

Immediately  after  our  arrival  at  Erivan,  I  despatched  Takvoor  to 
the  governor  with  our  Russian  passport.  Just  at  evening,  his  Ex- 
cellency sent  for  my  American  passport,  stating  that  he  had  an  Ar- 
menian priest  with  him  who  could  read  English. 

Aug.  9.  The  priest  called  on  me  in  the  morning,  and  remained 
most  of  the  forenoon.  He  learned  our  language  in  his  childhood, 
at  the  English  Philanthropic  academy,  as  he  styled  it,  in  India.  He 
speaks,  reads  and  writes  the  language  very  well,  is  intelligent  on 
general  subjects,  and  is  indeed  quite  English  in  his  character.  He 
expressed  deep  regret  for  the  ignorance  of  the  clergy  of  his  nation, 
and  an  ardent  desire  that  they  might  become  enlightened.  On  his 
mentioning  bishop  Heber,  as  having  known  him  in  India,  I  put  into 
his  hands  Heber's  Missionary  Hymn,  which  he  read  aloud  with 
great  apparent  satisfaction.  I  asked  him  whether  he  and  his  church 
are  looking  for  the  conversion  of  the  whole  heathen  world.  "  Yes," 
he  answered,  "  I  pray  for  it  every  day."  He  is  acquainted  with  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Dittrich  of  Tiflis,  expressed  the  highest  confidence  in  him, 
and  said  that  the  Armenians  are  under  much  obligation  to  that  mis- 
sionary for  his  valuable  translations  and  preparation  of  books  in  their 
language.  This  priest  is  a  relative  of  the  Armenian  bishop  Nerses, 
whom  the  Russian  government  have  exiled  from  Georgia,  being 
afraid  of  the  enlightening  and  reforming  influence  of  that  celebrated 
prelate ;  and  he  possesses,  I  think,  much  of  Nerses'  spirit.  He  is  at 
the  head  of  the  Imperial  Armenian  school  at  Erivan,  and  were  he 
not  too  near  Echmiadzin,  he  might  exert  a  most  salutary  influence 
on  his  nation.  He  urged  me  to  visit  that  convent,  but  I  had  not 
time.  The  monks  there  are  able  to  furnish  their  visitors  with 
pieces  of  Noah^s  ark,  for  five  or  ten  dollars  a  splinter,  each  perhaps 
two  inches  long,  and  smaller  ones  for  a  less  sum,  which  they  can 
aver  to  have  been  integral  parts  of  the  ship  of  the  patriarch,  with 
about  the  same  degree  of  honesty,  assurance  and  probability,  with 
which  they  practise  many  other  impositions  and  retail  the  mass  of 
their  traditions. 

In  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  the  dragoman  of  the  governor  re- 
turned our  passports,  with  his  Excellency's  signature,  as  he  said, 


ENGLISH  CREDIT — KHORVIRAB. 


131 


upon  them,  and  added,  that  all  was  correct.  The  priest  translated 
my  American  passport  into  Russian,  and  a  police  oflBcer  retained 
the  translation. 

Our  nnanticipated expenses,  arising  from  long  detention  in  quar- 
antine and  other  circumstances  attending  our  circuitous  route,  had 
nearly  exhausted  ray  purse.  I  stated  the  fact  to  our  Persian  servant 
and  asked  him  what  we  should  do.  He  soon  wandered  away  to  the 
bazar  and  conducted  to  our  tent  a  Persian  merchant,  from  Tabreezy 
who  was  an  entire  stranger  to  the  servant,  as  well  as  to  myself,  but 
was  still  ready  to  lend  me  as  much  money  and  for  as  long  a  period, 
as  I  wished,  with  no  other  security  than  my  promissory  note,  writ- 
ten in  English,  not  a  word  of  which  he  could  understand.  This 
implicit  confidence,  in  a  foreigner  and  a  stranger,  is  but  a  fair  illus- 
tration of  the  unlimited  credit  of  the  English,  in  the  East ;  for  my 
servant  had  announced  me  to  the  merchant  as  an  Englishman,  our 
nationality  as  Americans  being  then  hardly  known  in  Persia.  I 
borrowed  fifty  dollars  of  him  which  I  paid  some  weeks  afterward, 
on  his  presenting  my  note  at  Tabreez.  The  Persians,  for  obvious 
reasons,  will  never  confide  in  each  other  in  that  manner. 

We  started  about  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and  rode  twelve  miles, 
in  a  direction  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  Ararat.  The  weather  was 
extremely  warm.  In  the  evening,  the  silvery  rays  of  the  moon  were 
reflected  across  the  great  plain,  from  the  snowy  summit  of  the  sa- 
cred mountain.  I  walked  around  our  tent  some  time,  inhaled  the 
balmy  breeze  and  enjoyed  much  in  reflecting  where  I  was, — per- 
haps upon  the  very  spot  where  Noah  had  reared  an  altar.  But 
these  reflections  were  rendered  painfully  interesting,  by  a  thought 
of  the  moral  death-shade,  that  now  enshrouds  this  beautiful  country 
and  hallowed  mountain.  On  the  north  and  east  sides  of  Ararat  are 
Armenians  and  Muhammedans.  The  former,  though  nominal 
Christians,  are  groping  in  a  darkness  well  nigh  as  appalling  as  that 
■which  covers  the  latter.  On  the  south  and  west,  are  Koords  and 
Yezidees.  The  former  are  the  Jellalees,  the  same  frightful  ma- 
rauders from  whom  we  had  fled;  and  like  most  of  the  Koords,  they 
are  Muhammedans;  while  the  Yezidees  pay  a  kind  of  supersti- 
tious homage  to  the  devil.  When  will  this  fair  and  sacred  inheri- 
tance become  the  garden  of  the  Lord  ? 

Aug.  10.  We  started  at  4  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Mrs.  Perkins, 
myself  and  Takvoor  rode  on  a  little  before  the  muleteers,  and 
crossed  the  plain  to  the  west,  to  visit  the  renowned  Armenian  church 
and  the  prison  of  St.  Gregory,  at  Khorvirab.  We  there  came  very 
near  the  base  of  Mt.  Ararat.  The  river  Arras  (ancient  Araxes,)  on- 
ly rolled  between  us  and  the  mountain.  The  upper  part — about 
one  third  of  the  whole — was  covered  with  snow,  at  this  hot  season, 
which  appeared  very  deep  and  smooth,  as  though  never  ruffled  by 
the  track  of  man,  beast  or  bird.  Mrs.  Perkins  hastily  sketched  it 
from  this  near  view,  and  the  sketch  I  give  to  the  reader.    Its  aspect 


132 


CAVE  OF  THE  ILLUMINATOR. 


from  the  east  is  far  more  bold,  beautiful  and  symmetrical  than  oii 
the  western  side  along  which  I  have  since  repeatedly  travelled. 

We  descended  into  the  cave,  in  the  rock,  where  the  Illuminator^ 
Gregory,  at  the  commencement  of  his  labors  for  the  conversion  of 
the  Armenians,  is  said  to  have  been  imprisoned.  The  cave  is  about 
thirty  feet  deep,  and,  most  of  the  way,  so  small  that  a  person  can 
but  with  difficulty  descend  by  a  ladder.  At  the  bottom,  it  widens 
to  nearly  the  size  of  a  common  room.  A  host  of  Armenians  of 
both  sexes,  followed  us  down,  and  exhibited  the  most  disgusting  su- 
perstition,— kissing  the  floor  and  walls,  weeping  and  praying  to  the 
saint.  In  the  church  near  by,  some  were  engaged  in  heartless 
worship,  and  others  were  cooking  in  a  porch  and  selling  provisions 
at  the  door. 

We  expected,  when  we  started  in  the  morning,  to  make  our  cir- 
cuit back,  to  the  Nakchevan  road,  on  the  east  side  of  the  plain,  in 
season  to  intercept  our  muleteers,  and  had  therefore  given  them  no 
direction  respecting  the  distance  they  should  travel,  before  stopping. 
But  we  found  ourselves  deceived  in  the  width  of  the  great  plain, 
and  when  we  reached  Davalee,  the  village  where  we  intended  to  halt 
for  the  night,  we  found  that  the  muleteers  had  gone  on.  We  had 
now  rode  eight  hours  in  the  scorching  sun.  Takvoor  had  lingered, 
back  upon  the  plain,  for  a  tired  dog  which  he  was  conducting  to 
Tabreez  for  an  English  gentleman.  And  twelve  miles  lay  before 
us  to  another  village,  and  as  it  proved,  without  a  drop  of  water  on 
the  road.  After  consulting,  a  few  moments,  we  concluded  that  it 
was  better  to  proceed,  though  weary  and  alone,  than  to  be  separated 
from  our  muleteer,  servant,  tent  and  beds.  On  the  way,  we  met  two 
Persian  merchants.  Being  very  thirsty,  we  inquired  for  water,  and 
they  gave  us  a  green  cucumber.  We  reached  a  village,  near  sunset, 
not  doubting  that  we  should  there  overtake  our  muleteer,  but  found 
that  he  had  passed  this  village  also,  and  the  next  was  several  miles 
ahead.  Completely  tired  out,  we  could  go  no  further.  Whether 
Takvoor  would  reach  us,  that  night,  remained  to  be  seen.  I  found 
it  j?ery  difficult  to  make  myself  at  all  understood,  so  different  is  the 
Turkish  spoken  there  from  the  dialect  of  Constantinople  of  which 
I  had  acquired  a  smattering.*  Nearly  all  the  men  in  the  village 
gathered  around  and  gazed  upon  us  as  objects  of  curiosity.  We  at 
length  so  far  succeeded  as  to  make  them  understand,  that  we  were 
very  thirsty,  hungry  and  tired.  The  aga,  (master,)  whom  the  vil- 
lagers dignified  with  the  title  of  Sultan,t  (captain,)  and  laughed  at 

*  The  Turkish  spoken  in  Georgia  and  northern  Persia,  is  more  strictly 
Tartar, — or  rather,  it  is  the  pufer  Turkish,  as  originally  spoken  around  and 
beyond  the  Caspian  Sea.  It  differs  widely  from  that  spoken  at  Constanfino- 
ple,  whicli,  in  beinir  inll.ivatcd,  has  ingrafted  upon  the  old  stock  so  many 
Arnbic  and  Persian  words  and  idioms,  as  essentially  to  change  its  ori^nal 
character. 

t  In  Persia  and  Georgia  this  word  means  captain  in  military  rank. 


LODGING  OUT  INEfFICIENCY  OF  TAKVOGR. 


133 


me  for  calling  him  Hajee,  (pilgrim,)  the  only  honorary  title  which 
I  could  call  to  mind  for  the  occasion,  directed  that  our  horses  should 
be  fed ;  and  bread,  milk,  yogoord,  apples  and  water-melons  were 
brought  for  ourselves.  To  us  a  repast  was  never  more  grateful. 
When  we  asked  for  a  place  to  lodge,  we  were  pointed  to  the  flat 
roof  of  a  stable,  about  fifteen  feet  above  the  ground,  as  the  only  se- 
cure retreat  from  fleas  and  musquitoes.  Our  bedding  had  passed 
on  with  the  muleteers.  Just  as  we  were  retiring,  Takvoor  came, 
with  a  man  whom  he  had  procured  to  protect  him.  The  air  was 
dry  and  mild,  our  starry  covering  novel  and  delightful,  and  our  sleep 
refreshing. 

Aug.  11.  We  rose  early  and  started,  hoping  to  find  our  mule- 
teers at  the  first  village,  three  hours  ahead.  But  on  reaching  that 
village,  we  ascertained  that  they  had  passed  the  night  there,  had 
risen  also  early  in  the  morning  and  proceeded,  supposing  us  to  be  be- 
fore them.  Apprehending  that  they  might  thus  hasten  on,  until  they 
should  reach  Nakchevan,  and  leave  us  the  hard  alternative  of  rid- 
ing again  twelve  hours  in  the  hot  sun  or  encamping  another  night 
in  the  open  air,  I  told  Takvoor  to  ride  on  and  overtake  them  as 
soon  as  possible.  Poor  T.  jumped  down  from  his  horse,  began  to 
cry  and  said  he  feared  to  go.  His  cowardly  disposition  had  been 
so  wrought  upon  by  our  intercourse  with  the  rough  boors  in  Geor- 
gia, that  he  was  afraid  to  venture  from  our  presence.  I  therefore 
left  him  to  accompany  Mrs.  P.  and  galloped  on  myself,  with  all  prac- 
ticable Speed,  for  two  hours  and  a  half,  and  overtook  our  caravan. 
The  muleteers  were  greatly  relieved,  when  they  saw  me,  and  were 
very  glad  to  halt  and  encamp  for  the  day.  Mrs.  P.,  after  afmost  in- 
finite trouble  with  the  timorous  Armenian,  arrived  about  two  hours 
afterward.  If  she  quickened  her  pace  faster  than  a  walk,  he  would 
cry  out  after  her,  (he  usually  lingered  behind,)  for  fear  of  being  left 
alone,  -'you  will  not  go  after  Mr.  P.;"  and  he  frequently  interroga- 
ted, in  his  broken  English,  "if  we  do  not  soon  find  Mr.  P.,  what 
will  you  make?  (meaning,  what  will  you  do?)  "We  will  7nake 
along,"  as  often  she  replied.  With  all  the  trouble  of  his  timidity, 
however,  he  afforded  her  so  much  amusement,  as  to  buoy  up  her 
spirits  and  lighten  the  weariness  of  the  way  to  the  close  of  her  long 
and  lonely  ride. 

The  country  in  the  valley  of  the  Arras,  over  which  we  passed,  to- 
day, is  enchanting.  Many  considerable  tributaries  enter  the  river, 
thickly  studded  with  fruit-gardens,  orchards  and  villages.  These 
streams  had  no  bridges,  and  the  water  was  now  unusually  high  but 
fordable.  Takvoor  in  crossing  them  sometimes  stopped  still  in  the 
middle  of  the  current  and  obliged  Mrs.  P.  to  drive  his  horse,  as 
well  as  her  own. 

We  had  but  just  spread  our  tent  and  thrown  ourselves  down  to 
rest,  after  stopping,  when  a  flood  of  water  came  upon  us,  like  a 
mill-stream,  and  forced  us  to  pull  up  stakes  with  all  practicable  des- 
patch, and  retreat.    It  issued  from  an  unknown  opening,  in  a  wa- 


134 


HEAT— NAKCHEVAN. 


ter-course,  into  which  a  large  stream  was  suddenly  conducted,  to 
irrigate  an  adjoining  field.  During  the  afternoon,  the  atmosphere 
was  so  intensely  heated,  that  we  dared  not  venture  out  of  our  tent. 
We  were  obliged  to  close  every  opening,  and  remained  thus  shut 
up  until  evening.  A  strong  wind  from  the  south  prevailed,  wither- 
ing almost  as  the  blasts  of  a  furnace.  The  thermometer,  that  after- 
noon, ranged  between  100°  and  110°  Fahrenheit. 

Aug.  12.  Apprehending  another  hot  day,  we  started  at  1  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  rode  incessantly  until  noon,  and  reached  Nakchevan. 
About  two  hours  before  we  stopped,  a  valuable  horse,  belonging  to 
an  English  gentleman  at  Tabreez,  which  was  led  unloaded  by  my 
servant,  fell  down  and  died. 

Armenian  tradition  says  that  Noah  made  Nakchevan  his  first  per- 
manent resting-place  after  the  flood.  I  know  not  why  he  should 
have  wandered  so  far  down  the  valley,  and  over  so  fertile  and  beau- 
tiful a  country,  before  choosing  a  home  ;  but  the  word,  Nakchevan, 
happening  to  mean,  Jirst  inn,  is  sufficient  to  give  unquestioned  au- 
thority to  the  tradition,  in  the  estimation  of  the  Armenians.  There 
is  no  doubt,  however,  that  this  city  has  valid  claims  to  very  high  an- 
tiquity. It  13  situated  about  six  or  eight  miles  from  the  river  Arras, 
on  a  moderate  elevation.  The  style  of  its  houses  and  its  general 
aspect  are  those  common  in  Persian  cities,  which  I  shall  notice 
more  at  length,  when  speaking  of  Tabreez.  Nakchevan  is  said  to 
contain  about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants,  one  third  of  whom,  as 
in  Erivan,  are  probably  Armenians,  and  the  rest  Mohammedans. 
The  district,  which  bears  the  same  name,  is  extremely  fertile  and 
scarcely  less  unhealthy  than  the  province  of  Erivan.  The  town  ap- 
pears to  be  gradually  recovering  from  the  ravages  which  it  experi- 
enced in  the  late  war,  in  common  with  other  towns  that  were  taken 
by  the  Russians,  and  is  even  assuming  a  somewhat  cheerful  aspect 
by  the  whited  walls  of  the  semi-European  houses  of  numerous  Rus- 
sian officers. 

Immediately  after  our  arrival,  I  despatched  Takvoor  to  the  gov- 
ernor with  our  passports,  that  they  might  be  examined  and  we  be 
ready  to  proceed  the  next  morning.  Takvoor  returned,  saying  that 
the  governor  was  asleep,  and  he  could  not  then  speak  with  him.  I 
sent  again  two  hours  afterward,  but  the  governor  had  gone  out  and 
Takvoor  was  unable  to  find  him  until  near  evening.  The  governor 
said  it  was  too  late  then  to  attend  to  the  passports,  and  that  he 
might  call  for  them  at  9  o'clock  the  next  morning. 
.  Aug.  13.  As  our  passports  had  been  examined  by  the  governors 
of  Giimry  and  Erivan,  and  had  received,  as  was  stated,  their  re- 
spective signatures,  without  their  intimating  a  wish  that  I  should  be 
personally  present,  I  supposed  the  same  would  of  course  be  the  case 
at  Nakchev&n.  And  as  the  heat  would  be  very  oppressive  after  the 
coolness  of  the  morning  had  passed  away,  I  concluded  to  leave  my 
servant  to  bring  the  passpoi;ts,  when  Takvoor  should  procure  them, 
and  proceed  early  myself  with  Mrs.  Perkins.    Takvoor,  it  will  be 


REMINISCENCE  OF  MAHTYN  A  HARD  RIDE. 


135 


recollected,  was  now,  in  accordance  with  the  arrangement  of  the 
governor  of  Giimry,  to  return  to  that  town  and  conduct  my  pro- 
hibited loads  back  to  Erzroom.  We  had  a  day's  ride  to  perform,  on 
the  road  towards  Tabreez,  before  reaching  the  river  Arras,  the  Rus- 
sian boundary,  where  our  passports  would  be  needed.  I  therefore 
started  early  with  Mrs.  P.,  and  we  rode  on,  a  distance  of  about 
twenty-five  nailes,  from  Nakchevan  to  the  river.  We  entered  a 
small  cabin  on  the  quarantine  ground  and  threw  ourselves  down  to 
rest. 

It  was  just  here  that  the  sainted  Martyn  crossed  the  Arras,  on  his 
journey  towards  Europe,  a  short  time  before  his  death.  I  will  give 
the  reader  his  notice  of  the  place  and  of  the  event,  as  found  in  his 
journal,  contained  in  his  published  Memoir,  which  is  quite  charac- 
teristic of  his  laconic  pen. 

"  Sept.  12.  Soon  after  twelve,  we  started  with  fresh  horses  and 
came  to  the  Arras,  or  Araxes,  distant  two  parasangs,  and  about  as 
broad  as  the  Isis,  with  a  current  as  strong  as  that  of  the  Ganges. 
The  ferry-boat  being  on  the  other  side,  I  lay  down  to  sleep  till  it 
came ;  but  observing  my  servants  to  do  the  same,  I  was  obliged 
to  get  up  and  exert  myself  It  dawned,  however,  before  we  got 
over.  The  boat  was  a  huge  fabric  in  the  form  of  a  rhombus.  The 
ferry-man  had  only  a  stick  to  push  with  ;  an  oar,  I  dare  say,  he  had 
never  seen  nor  heard  of ;  and  many  of  my  train  had  probably  never 
floated  before,  so  alien  is  a  Persian  from  everything  that  belongs  to 
shipping.  We  landed  safely,  on  the  other  side,  in  about  two  min- 
utes." 

The  river  Arras  is  here  perhaps  two  hundred  feet  wide,  and  the 
rapidity  of  its  current  is  not  at  ail  exaggerated  in  the  comparison 
of  Martyn.  The  old  ferry-boat  still  in  use,  corresponds  precisely 
with  his  description,  and  it  may,  for  aught  I  know,  be  the  identical 
one  in  which  he  crossed  the  river  twenty-one  years  before  us. 

About  2  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  servant  arrived,  but  without 
the  passports,  stating  that  the  governor  would  not  give  them  up, 
nor  allow  Takvoor  to  leave  the  house;  and  that  his  Excellency  had 
moreover  sent  orders  that  /  should  return  immediately  to  Nakche- 
van. Two  armed  horsemen  had  accompanied  the  servant,  that  in 
case  of  want  of  volition  they  might  compel  me  to  return. 

I  mounted  a  horse,  and,  leaving  Mrs.  P.  with  the  servant,  gal- 
loped back,  in  the  scorching  sun,  in  a  little  more  than  two  hours. 
Being  unable  to  induce  my  armed  companions  to  proceed  faster 
than  a  walk,  I  had  left  them  far  behind,  and  now  made  my  appear- 
ance before  the  governor  alone.  I  found,  sure  enough,  that  Tak- 
voor had  been  kept  there  all  day,  in  close  quarters,  as  a  hostage. 
The  governor  tried  to  apologize  for  subjecting  me  to  so  much 
trouble;  but  said  it  was  indispensable,  as  I  could  not  cross  the 
boundary  without  a  new  passport  from  the  governor  of  Erivan,  who 
was  his  superior  ;  and  that  the  passports  which  I  now  had  must  all 
go  back  to  Erivan,  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  a  new  one.   I  had 


136 


DETENTION  ( 


■CHEERLESS  SITUATION. 


my  regular  American  passport  from  the.  secretary  of  state  of  U.S. 
one  from  our  charge  d'affaires  at  Constantinople,  one  from  the  Rus- 
sian ambassador  at  the  Turkish  capital,  a  Turkish  passport  from  the 
pasha  of  Erzroom,  and  a  letter  from  the  governor  of  Giimry,  certi- 
fying our  regular  performance  of  quarantine.  These  documents 
had  been  submitted  to  the  governor  of  Erivan,  examined  by  him, 
and  pronounced  ample  for  our  journey.  And  when  I  repeated  the 
inquiry,  to  the  commandant  of  Nakchevan,  whence  the  necessity 
which  he  asserted  of  their  being  sent  back,  he  could  only  reply, 
"  you  cannot  go."  Finding  remonstrance  in  vain,  I  endeavored  to 
appeal  to  his  compassion,  but  he  hardly  listened.  He,  however, 
engaged  to  despatch  a  courier  with  the  passports  immediately,  and 
secure  a  return  from  Erivan  in  three  days.  Finding  the  governor 
thus  inflexible  in  his  purpose  to  detain  us,  I  inquired  whether 
I  should  return  and  remain,  meanwhile,  with  Mrs.  Perkins,  on  the 
quarantine  ground.  At  first  he  objected  and  said  that  she  too 
must  come  back  to  Nakchevan.  But  when  I  represented  to  him 
the  inhumanity  of  subjecting  her  to  two  long  days' travel  in  the  hot 
sun,  which  would  be  necessary,  for  her  return  and  second 
ride  to  the  river,  he  at  length  consented  to  allow  me  to 
proceed  to  the  Arras,  and  promised  to  send  on  Takvoor  to  join  us 
the  next  day.  A  letter  was  prepared  for  the  quarantine  officer,  di- 
recting him,  as  I  afterwards  learned,  to  hold  us  in  safe-keeping  un- 
til he  should  receive  orders  to  let  us  go.  This  letter  was  at  first  en- 
trusted to  me  to  carry,  but  it  was  afterwards  taken  back  and  com- 
mitted to  an  armed  man,  who  was  to  accompany  me  as  a  guard.  It 
was  now  nearly  10  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  1  started  to  travel 
over,  the  third  time  that  day,  the  long  road  from  Nakchevan  to  the 
river  Arras.  On  our  way,  we  came  to  a  "  summer  threshing-floor," 
where  the  guard  proposed  to  stop  a  few  minutes  and  feed  the 
horses.  T  gladly  threw  myself  down  upon  the  ground,  almost  ex- 
hausted, and  immediately  fell  asleep.  When  we  stopped,  the  moon 
was  about  an  hour  above  the  western  horizon ;  when  I  awoke,  it 
had  gone  down  and  left  us  in  darkness.  I  called  the  guard,  who 
was  also  asleep,  and  we  proceeded  ;  and  after  riding  until  day- 
break, I  reached  Mrs.  Perkins,  who  had  passed  a  sleepless  night  in 
our  tent,  on  my  account,  not  being  able  to  conceive  wherefore  I 
had  been  summoned  to  return. 

Aug.  14.  With  sad  hearts,  we  now  found  ourselves  both  virtu- 
ally and  really  again  in  quarantine,  and  in  a  situation  inconceivably 
more  comfortless  than  the  one  which  we  had  encountered  on  the 
other  frontier.  We  were  on  a  great  plain  of  sand,  as  barren  as  a 
desert.  We  were  unable  to  find  a  single  patch  of  grass,  on  which 
to  pitch  our  tent.  A  strong  and  incessant  wind  sucked  through  be- 
tween the  mountains  up  the  course  of  the  Arras  from  the  Caspian 
sea,  by  day  almost  as  scorching  as  the  blasts  from  Sahara,  and  at 
all  times  sifting  clouds  of  sand,  through  every  joint  and  seam  of  our 
tent,  upon  our  beds,  our  provisions  and  ourselves,  like  light  snow  in 


DETENTION  RELEASE. 


137 


the  fury  of  a  winter  storm,  and  frequently  upsetting  our  frajl  cano- 
py for  the  want  of  sufficient  soil  to  retain  the  pins  of  our  tent  in  the 
ground.  The  heat  was  almost  overpowering,  as  it  had  been  all  the 
way  from  Erivan.  We  were  several  miles  from  any  village;  and 
neither  my  servant  nor  myself  was  permitted  to  leave  the  spot  to  go 
and  procure  provision.  And  the  only  means  by  which  we  kept  our- 
selves from  starvation  was,  to  induce  the  Persian  boatmen,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  to  brina  us  food  from  their  village,  which 
was  about  four  miles  distant,  in  Persia.  By  paying  an  exorbitant 
price,  we  thus  obtained  bread  and  melons,  once  in  two  or  three 
days.  Talcvoor  never  joined  us,  as  the  governor  had  pledged,  be- 
ing kept,  I  suppose,  as  a  hostage  during  our  detention,  and  we  found 
it  very  difficult  to  make  ourselves  understood.  A  few  dirty  soldiers 
alternately  marched  about  our  tent,  as  though  exulting  over  captives. 
And  insiea,d  of  being  detained  three  days  only,  as  the  governor  had 
promised,  we  were  compelled  to  lie  there  seven. 

Aug.  17.  The  fourth  day  of  our  confinement,  not  a  word  of  in- 
telligence having  reached  us  from  Nakchevan,  and  not  knowing 
how  long  a  detention  was  before  us,  I  addressed  a  letter  to  the  En- 
glish ambassador,  at  Tabreez,  briefly  stating  our  circumstances, 
and  enclosing  to  him  some  letters  of  introduction,  which  I  had  taken 
with  me  from  Constantinople.  In  the  afternoon  the  Russian  mail 
passed  along  and  I  induced  the  post,  who  rides  between  Nakchevan 
and  Tabreez,  to  engage  to  put  my  letters  into  the  hands  of  the  En- 
glish ambassador  immediately  on  his  arrival. 

Aug.  19.  Not  having  heard  a  word  from  our  passports,  our 
hearts  almost  sunk  within  us.  We  now  relinquished  the  expecta- 
tion of  being  relieved  by  the  Russians,  and  tried  to  cast  ourselves 
upon  an  Almighty  arm,  hoping  that,  under  God,  help  might  at 
length  reach  us  from  Tabreez.  About  II  o'clock,  the  ensuing  night, 
a  courier  came  to  our  tent  with  our  passports.  The  intelligence 
was  like  an  electric  shock.  We  were  so  rejoiced  by  the  deliverance, 
that  ye  were  unable  to  sleep,  during  the  rest  of  the  night.  We  had 
still  to  wait,  however,  for  the  quarantine  officer,  to  Avhom  the  cou- 
rier carried  a  letter  from  the  governor,  to  come  from  Esgy  Joglfa,*  a 
village  three  or  four  miles  distant,  to  give  us  verbal  permission  to 
proceed. 

Aug.  20.  We  rose  early  and  put  our  things  in  readiness,  but 
were  obliged  to  wait  until  almost  noon,  for  the  officer,  who,  after 
his  tardy  arrival,  pronounced  our  release  with  the  greatest  apparent 
reluctance,  charging  us  with  having  European  goods  in  our  boxes, 
while  he  held  in  his  own  hand  a  certificate  asserting  the  contrary, 
from  the  custom-house  ofiBcer  at  Nakchevan.  lip  a  short  time,  how- 
ever, our  eflfects  and  our  horses  were  all  across  the  Arras.    I  stood 


*  Esgy  Joolfd,  i.  e.  qld  loom;  the  Arnieman  town  from  which  Shih  A^bbas 
transported  his  weavers  and  other  mechanics  to  New  Joolfu,  which  ia  a  sub- 
urb of  Isfahan. 


18 


138  MORAL  ASPECT  OF  THE  RUSSIAN  PROVINCES. 


upon  the  rirer-bank  and  looked  tremblingly  until  every  article  had 
dearcd  the  boat  and  lay  safe  upon  the  Persian  shore,  lest  the  officers 
should  fabricate  some  pretext  to  embarrass  us  still  farther.  Like 
captives  emerging  from  a  cruel  imprisonment,  we  now  felt  that  we 
again  inhaled  the  air  of  freedom.  And  with  rejoicing  hearts  did 
we  take  our  last  look  of  that  country,  where  we  had  been  detained 
and  oppressed  more  than  four  weeks,  for  the  sake  of  making  a  jour- 
ney of  six  days, — nor  this  even  without  being  stripped  of  two-thirds 
of  our  baggage.  Were  I  to  form  an  estimate  of  the  Russians,  from 
what  we  saw  and  experienced  from  those  boors,  while  attempting 
to  travel  in  that  part  of  their  country,  I  should  be  compelled  to  pro- 
nounce their  minds  as  dark  as  the  winter  nights,  and  their  hearts 
as  cold  as  the  eternal  icebergs  that  reign  under  their  polar  skies. 
But  I  would  by  no  means  judge  thus  of  all  the  Russians. 

Quiet,  defenceless  travellers,  as  we  were,  wishing  merely  to  pass 
across  a  remote  province  of  the  Russian  empire,  I  know  not  the 
reasons  for  such  oppression  as  we  experienced  in  doing  it,  beyond 
the  inherent  despotism  of  the  government  and  the  bad  character  of 
its  officers,  particularly  in  those  distant  provinces,  unless  it  were 
that  ray  passports  announced  me  as  an  American  clergyman, — a 
character  of  course  very  obnoxious,  in  that  benighted  land,  where 
every  entrance  to  a  ray  of  light  is  so  sedulously  guarded  and  ob- 
structed. It  was,  moreover,  but  a  few  months  after  our  detention, 
that  all  missionaries  were  prohibited  from  prosecuting  their  labors 
in  the  Czar's  dominions,  and  an  order  issued  that  no  clergyman 
should  be  allowed  to  enter  them,  without  his  special  permission, — 
a  line  of  policy,  adopted,  I  believe,  at  the  urgent  overtures  of  the 
bigotted  Armenian  and  Russian  clergy,  rather  than  by  the  empe- 
ror's better  disposition  and  more  enlightened  judgment. 

But  what  a  picture  is  at  best  thus  presented  of  nominally  chris- 
tian Russia,  especially  its  Asiatic  provinces  !  Well  may  the  eye 
of  christian  philanthrophy  weep  over  that  mighty  realm  of  midnight 
darkness.  As  the  prospect  now  is,  should  such  a  policy  continue, 
long  after  the  benighted  empires  of  Muhammedism  shall  have  thrown 
off  their  darkness,  and  put  on  the  beautiful  garments  of  civilization 
and  pure  Christianity,  Russia  may  struggle  with  mortal  conflict, 
(in  vain  of  course  ultimately,)  still  to  enshroud  herself  in  the  fright- 
ful pall  of  barbarism  and  fallen  Christianity,  which  she  now  so  te- 
naciously binds  two-thirds  around  the  globe. 

We  rode  on  from  the  Arras,  eight  or  ten  miles,  and  stopped  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  about  two  miles  south  of  the  village  of 
Gerger,  intending  to  travel,  during  the  ensuing  night,  as  there  was 
a  full  moon,  and  the  heat  in  the  daytime  was  extremely  oppressive. 
We  had  scarcely  encamped  and  taken  some  refreshment,  when  the 
Gholdm,  (courier,)  of  Sir  John  Campbell,  the  English  ambassador 
at  the  court  of  Persia,  rode  up  to  our  tent  and  put  into  my  hands  a 
letter  which  I  opened  and  read  as  follows : 


ASSISTANCE  FROM  SIR  J.  CAMPBELL,. 


139 


Letter  of  the  Exglish  Ambassador. 

"  Tabreex,  Monday  evening  \^Aug.  18,  1834], 

My  dear  Sir, 

About  half  an  hour  since,  I  received  your  letter  with  those  of  in- 
troduction you  forwarded,  and  lost  no  time  in  waiting  upon  the 
first  secretary  of  the  the  Russian  Embassy  and  placing  the  whole  of 
them  in  his  hands,  for  the  information  of  His  Excellency,  Count 
Simonitch,  who,  this  night,  (Monday)  despatches  a  letter  to  the 
officer  commanding  Nakchevan,  to  make  arrangements  for  your 
immediate  permission  to  cross  the  frontier,  should  you  not  already 
have  received  your  passports  from  Erivan. 

A  duplicate  of  the  letter  in  question  will  leave  this  by  my  own 
Gholam  to-morrow  (Tuesday)  morning  at  day-light,  to  guard 
against  accidents,  which,  together  with  this,  will  be  delivered  to 
you,  but  my  servant  is  not  permitted  to  cross  the  Arras.  In  con- 
sideration of  Mrs.  Perkins'  situation,  I  have  sent  a  common  Takt- 
rawan*  and  four  mules,  the  only  ones  I  could  procure  at  this  short 
notice,  which  will  relieve  her  from  the  fatigue  of  riding,  [on  horse- 
back,] and  enable  her  I  hope  to  reach  Tabreez  in  safety.  The  takt- 
rawan  will  leave  the  city  to-night  and  be  on  the  banks  of  the  Arras 
on  the  third  day,  in  which  I  have  placed  three  or  four  bottles  of 
French  claret  and  some  tea,  sugar  and  biscuit,  as  your  long  de- 
tention on  the  quarantine  ground  may  have  exhausted  your  supplies 
of  these  articles. 

As  none  of  the  houses  here  occupied  by  Europeans  are  capable 
of  accommodating  Mrs.  Perkins  and  yourself,  I  have  just  sent  for 
Mr.  Nisbet,  and  directed  him  to  hire  a  couple  of  rooms,  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  his  own  residence  for  you,  till  you  can  make  better  arrange- 
ments for  yourself. 

Should  you  meet  the  takt-rawan  on  the  road,  the  man  is  directed 
to  place  it  at  your  disposal,  and  if  you  require  other  assistance, 
pray  have  the  kindness  to  send  in  the  bearer  of  this  to  let  me  know. 
He  will  come  in  from  the  banks  of  the  Arras  in  a  day  or  a  night. 
If  any  accident  should  have  happened  to  the  letter  sent  by  the  Count, 
have  the  kindness  to  forward  the  duplicate  now  sent  to  the  com- 
mandant of  Nakchevan.  With  regard  to  your  books,  etc.,  if  they 
are  not  restored  to  you  or  sent  back  to  Turkey,  subsequent  arrange- 
ments must  be  made. 

Excuse  this  hasty  scrawl, 

From  yours  very  obediently, 
(Signed)  J.  N.  R.  Campbell. 

P.  S.  You  may  trust  to  my  Gholam  to  do  anything  you  require, 
on  this  side  of  the  Arras." 


*  A  kind  of  litter, — the  only  vehicle  used  in  Persia. 


140 


AID  FROM  THE  RUSSIAN  AMBASSADOR. 


This  efficient  assistance  from  the  English  ambassador  was  ren- 
dered thus  speedily,  in  a  country,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind,  where 
despatch,  with  the  existing  modes  of  conveyance,  is  almost  as  im- 
practicable as  it  is  Uncommon.  About  half  an  hour  after  the  cou- 
rier, the  takt-rawan  also  arrived.  This  easier  mode  of  conveyance 
was  very  timely  for  Mrs.  Perkins.  She  had  already  rode  on  horse- 
back and  with  comparative  comfort,  between  six  and  seven  hun- 
dred miles  ;  but  the  exchange  of  her  saddle  for  the  litter  Was  now 
most  grateful.  The  vehicle,  however,  and  the  other  comforts  men- 
tioned in  the  letter  as  accompanying  it,  were  as  unexpected  as  they 
were  welcome.  In  the  few  lines  which  I  hastily  wrote  the  ambas- 
sador from  our  confinement,  I  had  not  intimated  our  need  of  any 
thing  of  the  kind ;  and  the  whole  coming  thus  promptly  from  an  en- 
tire stranger  impressed  us  the  more  deeply,  standing  in  such  vivid 
contrast  with  the  studied  oppression,  which  we  had  experienced  for 
so  long  a  period. 

Nor  should  I  omit  to  acknowledge  the  kindness  of  the  Russian 
ambassador  at  Tabreez,  in  his  efforts  to  effect  our  release.  He  act- 
ed, as  appears  from  Sir  John  Campbell's  letter,  with  great  prompt- 
ness; and,  as  I  have  since  learned,  he  expressed  much  stirprise  at 
our  detention  and  deep  solicitude  for  our  speedy  relief.  His  letter 
to  the  governor  of  Nakchevan  was  very  decisive.  "  I  know  not," 
he  wrote,  "  under  what  authority  you  act,  in  detaining  that  gentle- 
man and  lady;  but  be  that  authority  what  it  may,  I  request  you  to 
release  them  immediately ;  and  if  you  have  any  apprehension  that 
you  may  be  blamed  for  so  doing,  I  hold  myself  fully  responsible  for 
the  measure." 

Lest  it  should  be  difficult  to  reconcile  this  promptness  in  the  ef- 
forts of  the  Russian  ambassador,  to  effect  our  releasfe,  with  the  de- 
sire to  embarrass  us,  which  was  almost  uniformly  manifested,  as  we 
travelled  in  the  country  which  he  represents,  I  may  repeat  the  sug- 
gestion, that  it  is  the  boorifeh  deputies  atid  sobordinate  officers, 
and  not  men  of  such  intelligence  as  foreign  ambassadors,  that  are 
usually  the  agefnts  of  oppression  in  the  Russian  provinces.  The 
biad  character  of  ihe  lower  Russian  officers  in  the  distant  provinces 
of  Georgia  is  proverbial. 

About  9  o'clock  in  the  evening,  after  the  arrival  from  Tabreez^ 
the  moon  having  then  just  risen,  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  and 
travelled  incessantly,  until  9  o'clock  the  next  morning,  when  we 
reached  the  fertile  district  and  large  village  of  Morend.  This  vil- 
lage, tradition  says,  was  the  burial  pUce  of  Noah's  mother.  The 
alleged  proof  is,  that  in  Armenian,  Morend,  means,  "  mother  there.'^ 

This  long  ride  of  near  forty  miles  Mrs.  Perkins  sustained  with 
tolerable  ease,  in  the  takt-rawan.  Worn  out  with  anxiety,  during' 
our  troubles  in  Georgia,  I  was  myself  very  weak  and  unwell  and 
scarcely  able  to  sit  upon  my  horse.  I  frequently  dismounted  and 
walked  a  few  rods,  and  would  most  gladly  have  stopped  much 
sooner,  but  there  is  no  village  on  the  road,  between  Gerger  and  Mo- 


NARROW  ESCAPE  DR.  RIACH. 


141 


tend.  Our  road  led  up  a  high  mountain,  and  then  across  a  table-land, 
many  miles  in  extent,  on  which  I  observed  nothing,  by  the  moon- 
light, except  the  ruins  of  an  old  caravanserai.  As  we  were  ascend- 
ing the  mountain,  the  forward  mule  of  the  takt-rawan  became  obsti- 
nate and  suddenly  ran  back  and  pushed  the  hindermost  one  upon  the 
very  brink  of  the  precipice  along  which  the  road  runs  ;  and  had  not 
an  Almighty  arm  stayed  them  just  xohen  and  where  it  did,  mules,  takt- 
rawan  and  Mrs.  Perkins  must  have  been  dashed  down  the  precipice 
together.  At  day-break,  we  found  ourselves  descending  from  the 
table-land  and  entering  the  plain  of  Morend.  In  crossing  this  plain, 
the  pack-saddles  of  the  mules  suddenly  turned  on  their  backs  and 
capsized  the  takt-rawan,  with  the  side-door  downward,  which  con- 
fined Mrs.  P.  within,  until  the  mules  could  be  unharnessed  and  dis- 
engaged from  the  vehicle.  But  the  same  guardian  Hand,  which 
had  so  often  protected  us  from  dangers  seen  and  unseen,  shielded 
her  in  this  instance  also  from  injury  and  alarm.  Morend,  where  we 
stopped,  is  a  large,  fine  village,  containing  near  three  thousand  in- 
habitants, and  is  a  kind  of  metropolis  of  the  extensive  and  fertile 
district  which  bears  its  name,  and  in  which  are  several  smaller  vil- 
lages. 

Aug.  21.  We  had  halted  but  a  short  time  when  an  English 
gentleman  rode  up  to  our  tent,  who  proved  to  be  none  other  than 
Dr.  Riach,  physician  of  the  English  embassy  atTabreez, — the  same 
excellent  man  whom  we  had  seen  at  Constantinople,  on  his  way  to 
Persia.  Being  apprized  of  our  unhappy  predicament,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Arras,  he  had  procured  a  Russian  travelling-passport,  made 
the  necessary  preparations,  and  advanced  thus  far  on  his  way  to  the 
Russian  frontier,  with  the  determination  of  entering  the  country 
and  remaining  with  us,  should  he  not  find  us  liberated,  and  of  ac- 
companying us  on  the  road,  that  he  might  comfort  us  and  adminis- 
ter relief  in  case  of  sickness.  Such  generous  kindness  made  an  im- 
pression on  our  hearts,  then  bleeding  with  the  fresh  recollection  of 
our  recent  trials,  and  throbbing  with  joy  in  view  of  our  happy  de- 
liverance, too  deep  to  be  ever  obliterated.  We  sat  down,  narrated 
our  adventures,  and  took  sweet  counsel  together,  which  was  the 
more  dear  to  us,  afl;er  having  met  with  no  one,  for  so  long  a  period, 
who  treated  us  as  friends.  We  lingered  until  11  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  when  we  started  and  rode  until  about  6  o'clock  the  next 
morning,  crossing  the  Kara  Dagli  {Black  Mountain)  range,  and 
reached  Sofian,  a  village  situated  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  on 
the  western  extremity  of  the  great  plain  of  Tabreez.  At  this  vil- 
lage, Martyn  passed  his  second  night  from  Tabreez.  We  were  often 
interested  to  identify  his  stopping-places  with  our  own,  on  the  way ; 
the  more  so,  of  course,  as  we  were  among  the  first  to  enter  be- 
nighted Persia,  after  that  eminent  missionary  had  left  it,  to  labor  for 
the  salvation  of  its  perishing  inhabitants. 

Aug.  22.  This  morning,  for  the  first  time  after  we  left  Constan- 
tinople, Mrs.  Perkins  was  taken  quite  unwell,  and  suffered  much 


142  ARRIVAL  SICKNESS  ENGLISH  FRIENDS. 


pain.    By  medical  prescription  from  Dr.  Riach,  she  was  at  length 
relieved.    We  lingered  there,  trying  to  rest,  as  we  had  slept  but 
very  little  after  leaving  the  Arras,  until  1  o'clock  in  the  morning  of 
Aug.  23.    Mrs.  Perkins  having  then  become  comfortable,  we  pro- 
ceeded across  the  vast  plain,  under  the  mountain-ridge  which 
bounds  it  on  the  northern  side,  and  reached  Tabreez  after  a  ride  of 
seven  hours.   We  crossed  the  ajec  chai,  bitter  (^salt  or  bi-ackisJi) 
river,  a  little  before  reaching  the  city,  by  a  venerable  brick  bridge 
of  several  arches,  which  is  twelve  or  fifteen  rods  long.    The  stream 
was  now  almost  dry.    Here  we  met  Mr.  Nisbet,  the  commissary  of 
the  English  military  detachment  in  Persia,  who  had  come  out  thus 
far  to  welcome  us.  To  this  pious,  excellent  man,  we  were  laid  un- 
der great  and  constantly  increasing  obligation,  while  we  remained 
in  Persia.   Our  hearts  rose  in  tender  thanksgiving  to  our  Father  in 
heaven,  as  we  entered  the  city,  for  having  delivered  us  from  so 
many  embarrassments  and  exposures,  and  brought  us  at  length  in 
safety  to  the  place  of  our  first  destination.    We  were  very  kindly 
received  at  the  dwelling  of  our  christian  friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nis- 
bet.   Owing  to  a  large  accession  recently  made  to  the  European 
residents,  it  was  almost  impossible  to  procure  a  house.    But  Mr. 
N.  had  kindly  anticipated  our  wants  and  rented  us  one  near  his 
own,  as  comfortable  as  most  of  the  native  dwellings.   We  therefore 
found  ourselves  happily  lodged,  the  first  night  in  Tabreez,  in  our 
'  own  hired  house.'    But  when  the  reader  recollects  where  we  now 
were,  he  will  not  be  surpri.'^ed  to  learn,  that  we  became  occupants 
of  a  mud-wallcd  dwelling,  without  glass  windows  or  wood  floors. 
For  such  a  home,  however,  we  were  heartily  thankful. 

Aug.  26.  Just  three  days  after  our  arrival  at  Tabreez,  Mrs,  P. 
became  the  mother  of  a  daughter,  of  whose  existence  she  was  not 
conscious  for  several  days.  Her  long  previous  exposures  had  pros- 
trated her  system,  and  this  sickness  carried  her  farther  apparently 
across  the  stream  of  Jordan  than  any  person  I  ever  knew,  who  was 
brought  back  again  to  its  nether  shores.  Incessant  vomiting  for 
several  hours  induced  repeated  convulsions,  the  severest  I  ever  wit- 
nessed and  apparently  sufficient  to  shake  the  firmest  frame  in  pieces ; 
after  which,  tlie  vital  spark,  for  nearly  a  week,  seemed  almost  extin- 
guished. Three  English  physicians  were  in  attendance,  who  hap- 
pened providentially  to  be  in  Tabreez  at  that  time,  viz.  Dr.  Riach, 
who  met  us  on  the  road  ;  Dr.  Griffiths,  surgeon  of  the  English  de- 
tachment; and  Dr.  McNeill, — then  first  secretary  of  the  embassy 
and  now  Sir  John  McNeill,  the  present  ambassador.  They  all  mani- 
fested the  most  anxious  solicitude,  and  tenderly,  but  frankly,  told 
me  that  they  saw  no  probability  of  Mrs.  Perkins'  recovery.  My 
feelings,  in  those  circumstances,  can  be  more  easily  conceived  than 
described, — the  perils  and  trials  of  our  long  and  toilsome  journey 
just  terminated, — my  companion  for  life,  as  well  as  in  those  trials, 
who  had  so  happily  survived  them,  now  apparently  in  the  agonies 
of  dissolution, — and  for  myself,  only  the  cheerless  prospect  of  being 


PERSIA  ^BOUNDARIES. 


143 


so  soon  left,  a  solitary  pilgrim  in  that  dark  and  distant  land.  But 
though  no  American  voice  was  near  to  solace  me  in  that  trying  ex- 
tremity, a  merciful  Providence  had  not  left  me  without  friends. 
Parents  and  brothers  could  not  have  been  more  tender  and  assidu- 
ous in  their  kindness  than  were  the  English  residents.  The  am- 
bassador sent  repeatedly  to  me,  saying,  "  My  house  is  open  to  you  ; 
spare  nothing  that  can  contribute  to  your  relief  and  comfort." 
Mrs.  Nisbet  took  home  our  infant  on  the  day  of  its  birth,  and  re- 
lieved me  of  all  care  respecting  it ;  and  Dr.  Riach  stayed  five  days 
and  nights  constantly  at  Mrs.  Perkins'  bed-side,  not  retiring  from 
the  house  to  eat  or  sleep,  (the  other  physicians  also  repeatedly  call- 
ing,) until  by  little  less  than  a  miracle  of  divine  mercy,  we  were 
permitted  to  cherish  the  hope  of  her  recovery.  The  reader  will  not 
wonder  that  after  a  short  residence  in  Persia,  we  had  become  ten- 
derly attached  to  the  English  in  that  country.  And  the  treatment 
which  we  received  from  them  on  our  first  arrival,  is  but  a  specimen 
of  their  kindness  to  us,  from  that  period  to  the  present  time. 

In  connexion  with  our  exposures  and  sufferings,  on  the  way  to 
our  field,  it  were  grateful  to  offer  a  passing  tribute  to  female  forti- 
tude in  the  missionary  enterprise,  might  a  husband  be  allowed  to 
do  it.  I  may  at  least  be  pardoned,  for  saying  in  general,  that  we 
witness,  in  many  of  the  females  sent  out  by  our  churches,  not  only 
the  devotion  that  was  'last  at  the  cross  and  first  at  the  sepulchre,' 
but  also  a  heroism,  which  is  able  calmly  to  meet  and  cheerfully  sus- 
tain the  trying  emergencies  that  often  almost  crush  our  own  sterner 
energies.  It  is  preeminently  on  missionary  ground  that  woman  is  a 
help-meet  for  man. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

TABREEZ. 

We  are  made  acquainted  with  ancient  Persia  and  its  inhabitants 
by  the  classic  historians  and  some  of  the  sacred  writers.  The 
modern  Persians  retain  the  characteristics  of  their  ancestors,  to  an 
extent  unequalled,  probably,  in  any  other  Asiatic  nation  that  has 
remained  in  the  same  land  in  which  their  progenitors  lived,  and 
come  down  unbroken  from  so  early  a  period.  Not  so,  however, 
with  the  territorial  limits  of  their  country.  These  have  varied  like 
the  ebbing  and  flowing  tide,  with  every  dynasty  and  almost  every 
reign.  "  The  limits  of  this  kingdom,  in  its  most  prosperous  period," 
says  Sir  John  Malcolm,  "  may,  however,  be  easily  described  ;  the 


144 


PROVINCES  NAMES. 


Persian  Gulf  and  Indian  Ocean  to  the  south;  the  Indus  and  the 
Oxus  to  the  east  and  north-east ;  the  Caspian  Sea  and  mount  Cau- 
casus to  the  north  ;  and  the  river  Euphrates  to  the  west."  *  Vast 
territories,  on  every  side,  must  be  struck  from  this  extreme  outHne 
of  the  celebrated  historian,  in  looking  for  the  present  boundaries  of 
Persia.  It  does  indeed  still  reach  the  Caspian  Sea  on  the  north,  and 
the  Persian  Gulf  on  the  south.  But  the  wild  regions  of  Beloochistan 
shut  it  far  from  the  Indian  Ocean  and  the  lower  part  of  the  Indus  ; 
Affghanistan  places  it  at  a  still  farther  remove  from  the  higher  por- 
tions of  that  river ;  the  formidable  domain  of  the  Osbegs  and  Tur- 
comans spreads  out  a  broad  barrier  between  the  Persians  and  the 
Oxus  ;  Russia  has  crowded  them  down  on  the  north  from  the  Cau- 
casus and  from  Georgia  and  Armenia,  as  far  as  the  river  Arras,  and 
even  below  that  river  many  leagues  before  it  reaches  the  Caspian 
Sea  ;  and  on  the  west,  so  far  from  compassing  Mesopotamia  to  the 
river  Euphrates,  the  Turks  have  long  restricted  their  Shiite  neigh- 
bors to  a  natural  mountain  boundary,  far  east  of  the  Tigris  and  of 
its  tributaries,  until  we  approach  the  Persian  Gulf. 

Modern  Persia,  thus  circumscribed,  may,  to  speak  in  round  num- 
bers, be  from  800  to  1000  miles  square, — though  its  shape  is  rhora- 
boidal  rather  than  square,  being  at  least  a  third  longer  from  north- 
west to  south-east  than  in  the  transverse  direction.  Geographically, 
it  lies  between  26°  and  40°  north  latitude,  and  between  44°  and  59° 
east  longitude.  Its  present  population,  though  no  accurate  census 
is  ever  taken,  may  probably  not  vary  far  from  ten  millions.  Its  prov- 
inces are  Fars,  Irak,  Laristan,  Kuzistan,  a  portion  of  Koordistan, 
Azerbijan,  Ghilan,  Mazanderan  and  the  western  sections  of  Kho- 
risan  and  Kerraan.  Its  present  capital  is  Tehran  in  the  province 
of  Irak,  situated  toward  the  northern  part  of  the  kingdom,  but 
nearly  central  from  west  to  east. 

Elam  is  the  most  ancient  name  of  Persia,  from  Elam  the  son  of 
Shem,  whose  descendants  are  said  to  have  been  its  first  inhabitants. 
Iran  is  the  term  applied  by  the  present  Persians  to  their  country  ; 
and  Iranloo,  or  Iranee,  (as  the  appellative  takes  the  Turkish  or  the 
Persian  form,)  to  the  people.  Fars,!  Pars,  or  Paras,  from  which 
Europeans  derive  the  term  Persia,  and  apply  it  to  the  whole  coun- 
try, as  it  was  aJso  applied  by  the  Greeks  and  Romans  and  some  of 
the  sacred  writers,  is  only  the  southern  province  of  the  empire,  as 
that  name  is  now  used  by  the  natives.  Ajem,  clown,  {^uQ^aQog,)  and 
Ajemistan,  clown-land,  are  names  which  the  self-conceited  Osman- 
lies  have  given,  as  they  think,  to  their  less  polighed  neighbors  and 
their  rustic  home,  back  in  the  interior, — with  how  little  grace  or 
justice,  is  soon  apparent  to  one  who  becomes  acquainted  with  the 
two  nations.  The  Persians,  however,  forgetful  or  regardless  of  the 
indignity  of  the  titles,  have  also  adopted  them.  Kuzzel-bash,  red 
head,  is  another  epithet  applied  to  them  by  the  Soonees.     It  origi- 


^alcolm's  Hist.  vol.  I.  p.  1. 


t  Heb.  D"iB 


PHYSICAL  FEATURES. 


145 


nated  in  the  time  of  Sliah  Ismail.*  Several  tribes  who  became  de- 
voted promoters  of  the  Shiite  faith,  under  that  champion  of  the 
sect,  were  distinguished  in  their  dress  by  wearing  red  caps.  The 
terra  thence  attached  to  the  Shiites  in  general,  and  has  thus  de- 
scended to  the  present  Persians. 

A  physical  sketch  of  Persia  is  well  given  in  few  words  by  Mal- 
colm, in  the  connection  from  which  I  before  quoted.  "The  most 
striking  feature  of  this  extensive  country,"  he  says,  "  are  deserts 
and  mountains,  amid  which  are  interspersed  beautiful  valleys  and 
rich  pastures."  And  again,  "  The  valleys  in  the  central  provinces 
of  Persia,  abound  with  the  rarest  and  most  valuable  vegetable  pro- 
ductions, and  might  be  cultivated  to  any  extent.  Trees  are  seldom 
found  except  near  the  towns  and  villages;  but  the  luxuriance  with 
which  they  grow,  wherever  planted,  shows  that  the  climate  is  con- 
genial to  them.  The  orchards  of  Persia  produce  all  the  fruits  of 
the  temperate  zone ;  and  its  wilds  abound  with  flowers,  that  can 
only  be  reared  in  the  gardens  of  Europe  by  care  and  cultivation. 
The  climate  is  very  various.  It  is  not  more  affected  by  the  differ- 
ence of  latitude  than  by  the  remarkable  inequalities  of  the  surface 
in  almost  all  the  provinces.  The  greater  part  of  the  country  is  a 
succession  of  plains  at  the  base  of  those  ridges  of  hills  by  which  it 
is  intersected,  and  of  table-lands  nearly  on  a  level  with  their  tops. 
To  pass  from  the  lower  valleys  to  the  higher,  is  to  change  the  tem- 
perature of  summer  for  that  of  winter.  But  the  climate,  though  va- 
rious, is  healthy ;  and  few  countries  can  boast  a  more  robust,  active 
and  well-formed  race  of  men.  Its  animals,  (particularly  the  horses 
and  dogs,)  are  of  uncommon  size,  strength  and  beauty.  In  the 
mountains,  some  valuable  minerals  are  found  but  none  in  abun- 
dance ;  and  Persia  has  consequently  been  always  indebted  to  foreign 
countries,  for  lead,  iron,  silver  and  gold."  Rich  mines  of  copper 
and  iron  have  been  opened  in  Azerbijan  since  Sir  J,  Malcolm  wrote 
his  history.  Coal  has  also  been  found  to  a  limited  extent  in  that 
province  and  near  Tehran  ;  and  it  doubtless  needs  but  the  aid  of 
science  and  enterprise  entirely  to  remove  the  dependence  of  the  Per- 
sians on  their  neighbors  for  the  more  useful  minerals.!  And  in 
speaking  of  the  "  central  provinces,"  he  does  not  include  Mazan- 
deran  and  Ghilan,  lying  on  the  Caspian  Sea,  which  are  clothed  with 
vast  and  beautiful  forests. 


*  Malcolm's  Hist.  Vol.  I.  p.  326. 

t  I  ha've  sometimes  made  this  statement,  in  answering  inquiries  on  this 
subject,  during  my  visit  to  the  United  States.  And  the  Nestorian  bishop 
who  accompanied  me,  attempting  to  adopt  it  for  the  same  purpose,  but  mis- 
taking a  ierwi,  has  often  said  that  "  there  are  no  men  of  sense  (science)  in 
Persia  to  discover  mines and  he  adds,  perhaps  not  less  philosophically 
than  piously,  '  that  inasmuch  as  "  the  fear  of  the  Lord  is  the  beginning  of 
wisdom,"  iie  hopes,  as  this  shall  increase  in  Persia,  the  cartii  tliere  will  yield 
coal  for  fuel  in  place  of  stable  manure  and  furnish  to  the  inhabitants  many 
other  conveniences  and  comforts.' 

19 


146 


AZEKBIJAN — TABREEZ  PLAIN. 


Our  home  in  Persia,  as  already  stated,*  is  in  Azerbijdn,  the  north- 
western province.  This  name,  in  the  ancient  JPeJdivi,  means  Jiouse 
ofJire,i  given  to  the  province  probably  on  account  of  the  system  of 
fire-worship  having  originated  there, — Zoroaster,  the  founder,  being 
a  native  of  Oroomiah.  Azerbijan  is  in  the  northern  part  of  ancient 
Media  and  corresponds  nearly  to  Atropatene.  It  is  perhaps  two 
hundred  miles  long  from  north  to  south  and  two-thirds  that  dis- 
tance broad.  The  river  Arras  separates  it  from  the  Russian  pro- 
vinces on  the  north ;  Ghilan  bounds  it  on  the  east,  and  Irak,  on 
the  south ;  and  on  the  west,  it  embraces  the  adjacent  branches  of 
the  Koordish  mountains,  along  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  general 
range,  to  a  rather  indefinite  line,  that  divides  it  from  Turkey,  where 
the  head  waters  are  supposed  to  begin  to  flow  eastward  toward  Per- 
sia and  westward  toward  the  Tigris  and  Euphrates. 

Tabreez,  the  chief  city  of  Azerbijan,  which  was  the  place  of  our 
first  destination,  is  supposed  to  be  the  ancient  Gaza,  or  Ganzaca,| 
where  Cyrus  deposited  the  treasures  of  Croesus.  It  is  now  gene- 
rally agreed,  that  the  present  name  of  this  city  sigmfies  f ever-dis- 
persing, being  formed  from  the  Persian  word  tab,  heat,  and  recArfara, 
to  pour,  or  scatter ;  and  that  it  took  this  name  from  its  renowned 
salubrity.  Many  other  definitions  have  been  offered;  but  as  its 
climate  well  merits  this  flattering  epithet,  and  no  other  explanation, 
that  I  have  heard  or  read,  seems  to  possess  more  reasons  in  its  favor 
than  the  one  I  have  mentioned,  I  need  not  trouble  the  reader,  as 
some  others  have  done,  with  a  chapter  of  speculations  on  the  sub- 
ject. The  city  is  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of  a  great  plain,  which 
stretches  full  thirty  miles  in  its  broadest  dimensions,  is  bounded  by 
mountain  ranges  of  considerable  height  on  the  west,  north,  east  and 
south-east,  and  skirts  the  lake  of  Oroomiah  on  the  south-west.  The 
interior  portions  of  this  plain  are  uncultivated,  the  soil  being  so  im- 
pregnated with  salt  as  to  be  capable  of  producing  but  little  vegeta- 
tion. A  considerable  belt  under  the  mountains,  particularly  on  the 
eastern  and  western  sides,  which  is  irrigated  by  small  fresh-water 
rivulets,  is  thus  rendered  fertile  and  is  highly  cultivated.  The  soil, 
even  here,  appears  sandy  and  barren ;  but  it  is  in  reality  strong, 
and  wherever  thus  irrigated,  it  yields  excellent  crops.  The  moun- 
tains around,  like  most  mountains  in  Persia,  are  entirely  bare,  and 
present  to  the  eye  of  the  observer  the  personification  of  barrenness ; 
but  the  dreary  scene  is  greatly  relieved,  by  the  smiling,  verdant 
fields  and  gardens  below,  which  are  rendered  the  more  grateful  and 
lovely  by  being  in  such  vivid  contrast  with  the  naked  desolations 
above.  The  eastern  section  of  this  plain  narrows,  as  it  extends 
back  between  the  ranges  of  mountains,  and  near  the  extremity,  a 
little  elevated,  sits  Tabreez,  like  a  monarch  looking  down  from  the 
head  of  a  vast  amphitheatre.    And  this  general  description  of  their 


*  Page  7.  t  Malcolm's  Hist.  Vol.  I.  p.  326. 

t  Kinnier's  Persian  Empire,  p.  150. 


ELEVATION  CLIMATE  POPULATION. 


147 


relative  location  will  apply  to  most  of  the  cities  and  their  adjacent 
plains,  in  Azerbijan  and  the  other  provinces  of  Persia. 

The  plain  of  Tabreez,  and  indeed  the  whole  of  northern  Persia, 
is  quite  elevated, — at  least  four  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
ocean.  The  winters  there  are  consequently  cold,  perhaps  as  cold 
as  those  of  our  Middle  States.  The  summers,  however,  in  that  clear 
atmosphere,  where  a  cloud  seldom  appears  in  the  heavens  from  early 
spring  till  late  in  autumn,  are  very  warm,  during  the  day ;  but  the 
air  becomes  delightfully  cool  as  soon  as  the  sun  leaves  the  horizon. 
At  Tabreez,  a  strong  wind  blows  daily  from  the  Caspian  Sea,  which 
is  very  invigorating,  and  would  be  very  agreeable,  did  it  not  fill  the 
atmosphere  during  the  dry  season,  with  clouds  of  fine  dust  and 
sand. 

The  main  part  of  the  city  is  surrounded  by  a  high  double  wall  of 
mud  and  a  broad  deep  ditch.  The  walls  are  in  a  state  ot  tolerable 
preservation,  and  have  strong  bastions  at  regular  intervals.  The 
city  is  about  four  miles  in  circumference  and  is  entered  by  eight 
gates.  Outside  of  the  wall,  is  an  open  space,  nearly  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  wide,  extending  entirely  around  che  city,  which  is  almost  whol- 
ly occupied  with  cemeteries.  Beyond  this  space,  is  a  continuous 
range  of  suburbs,  that  probably  contain  nearly  as  many  inhabitants 
as  the  city  itself ;  and  farther  still,  are  extensive  gardens,  which 
sweep  round  the  whole,  and  form  the  last  and  largest  of  these  con- 
centric circles  that  have  the  city  as  their  common  centre.  These 
gardens  furnish  excellent  fruit,  as  peaches,  pears,  plums,  grapes, 
nectarines,  etc.  in  ample  abundance.  They  are  usually  secured  by 
high  mud  walls  and  entered  by  a  gate  perhaps  three  feet  high,  and 
two  wide,  which  consists  of  a  single  stone  that  swings  upon  hinges. 
Beyond  the  gardens,  are  the  mountain  ranges,  on  the  east,  north 
and  south,  and  the  vast  open  plain  on  the  west. 

One  of  the  most  striking  objects  without  the  city  is  a  lofty  sand- 
stone mountain,  which  overhangs  it  on  the  north-easl,  and  is  of  so 
deep  a  red  color  as  to  be  even  painful  to  the  eye, — particularly  as  it 
is  naked  and  presents  the  aspect  of  absolute  sterility.  A  little  far- 
ther north,  about  ten  miles  from  the  city,  is  an  exhaustless  mine  of 
beautiful  rock  salt,  from  which  immense  quantities  are  quarried; 
and  from  a  gorge  near  it,  issues  the  ajet  cKai — bitter  (saZi)  river — 
a  considerable  stream  which  flows  across  the  plain  and  enters  the 
lake.  Tabreez,  with  its  suburbs,  may  now  contain  eighty  thousand 
inhabitants,  of  whom  perhaps  one  thousand  are  Armenian  Christians 
and  the  rest  are  Muhammedans.  The  Armenians  are  a  privileged 
class.  By  threatening  to  follow  the  Russians  to  Georgia  at  the  close 
of  the  last  war,  they  extorted  from  the  Persian  government  impor- 
tant immunities,  as  diminution  of  taxes,  etc.,  as  the  condition  of  re- 
maining. Unhappily,  however,  they  profit  little  by  these  advantages. 
Like  most  of  the  Armenians  in  Persia,  they  are  even  more  degraded 
and  immoral  than  their  Muhamraedan  neighbors.  Tabreez  was 
formerly  far  more  populous  than  at  present.    The  open  space,  now 


148  EARTHQUAKES  ANTIQUITIES  COMMERCE. 


occupied  as  cemeteries,  is  strown  over  with  huge  oblong  blocks  of 
black  marble;  and  there  are  many  other  indications  that  this  entire 
area,  now  the  tabernacles  of  the  sleeping  dead,  was  once  covered 
with  the  busy  abodes  of  the  living.  Tradition  says  that  the  whole 
city  was  destroyed  by  an  earthquake  somewhat  less  than  a  century 
ago,  which  is  probably  true.  Earthquakes  are  still  very  common 
in  Tabreez.  The  year  that  we  resided  there,  they  shook  our  house 
repeatedly — caused  our  crockery  to  rattle  on  its  shelves — and  many 
walls  in  our  neighborhood  were  thrown  down. 

There  are  few  conspicuous  remnants  of  antiquity  in  Tabreez, 
though  the  city  is  very  ancient.  A  venerable  mosk  of  brick-work, 
finely  arched  and  beautifully  decorated  with  mosaic,  which  stands 
a  mile  east  of  the  city  but  was  once  doubtless  within  its  walls,  is 
perhaps  the  most  interesting.  A  small  part  of  its  side  walls  and  most 
of  its  front  still  attest  its  former  magnificence.  The  Ai-k,  (citadel, 
in  Persian,  areg,)  a  solid  mass  of  walls,  ninety  feet  high,  which  en- 
closes a  part  of  the  fort  that  forms  an  offset  on  the  southern  side  of 
the  city,  is  also  a  noble  structure.  A  considerable  part  of  this  too 
has  fallen, — so  much,  that  it  is  difficult  to  determine  for  what  pur- 
pose it  was  erected.  By  some,  it  is  supposed  to  have  been  a  mosk, 
and  by  others,  a  royal  palace.  It  is  the  first  object  seen,  in  ap- 
proaching the  city,  from  any  direction.  The  present  mosks  of  Ta- 
breez— and  indeed  most  of  the  mosks  elsewhere  in  Persia, — are  un- 
pretending structures,  built  often  of  sun-dried  bricks,  one  story 
high  and  without  minarets.  They  make  but  a  humble  appearance 
compared  with  the  mosks  of  Turkey,  particularly  those  of  Constan- 
tinople. And  the  waning  zeal  of  the  Persians  in  regard  to  their 
flaces  of  worship  is  perhaps  no  more  than  a  fair  index  of  the  decline 
of  their  attachment  to  the  worship  itself. 

Tabreez  is  the  most  important  city,  in  a  commercial  point  of 
view,  in  all  Persia.  It  is  the  great  mart  of  European  merchandize. 
Its  bazars  and  caravanserais  are  numerous  and  extensive ;  and  some 
of  them  are  of  a  very  superior  construction.  They  are  built  of  brick 
and  lime,  finely  arched,  and  are  probably  among  the  most  durable 
structures  in  the  world.  Shawls  and  silks  are  manufactured  by  the 
natives  at  Tabreez,  though  not  so  extensively  nor  of  so  superior  a 
quality  as  in  some  other  Persian  cities.  Its  trade  is  principally  tran- 
sit, and  this  is  immense,  almost  beyond  conception.  It  is  a  grand 
depot,  into  which  Europe  pours  the  fruits  of  its  industry  and  enter- 
prise to  be  distributed  throughout  the  whole  country  and  vast  re- 
gions beyond.  The  goods  imported  are  mainly  broadcloths,  cottons, 
chintz,  loaf  sugar,  crockery,  glass,  tea  and  various  kinds  of  fancy 
articles.  The  principal  exports  from  Persia  westward  are  raw  cot- 
ton to  a  limited  extent,  great  quantities  of  silk,  both  raw  and  manu- 
factured, carpets  and  shawls.  Immense  quantities  of  nutgalls  from 
the  Koordish  mountains  are  exported  for  tanning  and  other  purposes. 
These  are  generally  purchased  by  the  few  European  merchants  in 
Persia,  who  are  Englishmen  and  Greeks,  at  Sakh-boolak,  a  Koord- 


THE  PERSIANS  APPEAKANCE  CHARACTER.  149 


ish  town  at  the  south  end  of  the  lake  of  Orooniiah.  Pipe  sticks  for 
the  Turkish  markets,  from  the  Bakhtiaree  mountains  in  the  south  of 
Persia,  the  tobacco  (tombakoo)  of  Shiraz,  yellow  berries  for  dyeing, 
and  various  gums  are  also  among  the  exports. — It  is  surprising  with 
what  skill  the  Persians  manufacture  some  articles,  with  the  simplest 
utensils.  I  have  seen  shawls  valued  at  a  thousand  dollars  apiece, 
and  carpets  very  far  superior  to  those  of  Turkey,  though  sold  ia 
Europe  under  that  name,  woven  by  hand  and  with  the  rudest  appa- 
ratus in  the  form  of  a  loom.  Some  of  their  silks  and  cottons,  pre- 
pared in  the  same  way,  are  also  very  fine.  The  process  is  of  course 
extremely  slow  ;  and  nothing  could  be  more  natural,  than  that  the 
Nestorian  bishop  from  that  country,  when  he  first  entered  a  cotton 
manufactory  in  America,  and  saw  its  thousands  of  spindles,  simul- 
taneously whirling,  without  the  aid  of  a  human  hand,  should  be  struck 
with  overwhelming  astonishment,  and  pronounce  the  whole  a  dis- 
play of  ingenuity,  far  greater  than,  the  wisdom  of  Solomon  ! 

There  is  an  armory  in  the  citadel  at  Tabrcez,  where  small  arms 
and  cannon  are  very  well  manufactured.  The  Persians  may  in 
general  be  said  to  be  enterprising  and  imitative,  though  not  very 
inventive.  Their  skill  in  imitation  may  be  illustrated  by  an  instance. 
On  a  fine  brace  of  pistols  being  shown  at  Tabreez,  by  an  English 
officer,  a  Persian  gunsmith  (who had  visited  England)  declared  that 
he  could  make  as  good  pistols,  and  those  so  nearly  resembling  the 
Englishman's,  that  the  latter  vi^ould  be  unable  to  point  out  the  dif- 
ference. A  wager  was  laid ;  the  Persiaii  took  one  of  the  pistols 
home  with  him  as  a  model,  and  not  long  afterwards  brought  back 
two,  and  presented  them  to  the  oflRcer,  who,  to  be  sure,  could  not 
tell  which  was  his  own,  until  he  found  on  one  of  them  a  small  Ro- 
man letter,  in  the  name  of  the  English  artizan,  inverted.  The  Per- 
sian, not  knowing  the  meaning  or  the  use  of  the  mark,  had  made 
that  slight  mistake,  in  his  effort  at  imitation. 

The  Persians  of  Azerbijan  are  regarded  as  the  finest  race  of  men 
in  the  empire.  They  are  far  more  athletic  and  manly  than  the  in- 
habitants further  south.  They  furnish  the  best  of  the  king's  troops, 
— most  of  them,  indeed,  on  whom  he  places  much  reliance  are  col- 
lected from  this,  his  native  and  favorite  province.  They  are  also  a 
very  fine  looking  people,  being  probably  a  mixed  race,  combining, 
perhaps,  Georgian  beauty  with  Tartar  size  and  Persian  gracefulness. 
Like  all  Persians,  they  have  bright,  inquisitive  minds,  very  social 
dispositions  and  affable,  insinuating  manners.  The  inhabitants  of 
Persia  doubtless  surpass  all  other  nations  in  external  ease  and  arti- 
ficial politeness  ;  and  it  is  with  great  propriety  that  they  are  often 
styled  "  the  French  of  Asia."  But,  sad  to  tell,  Persian  politeness 
is  little  more  than  external.  Their  real  character  is  ihat  of  treach- 
ery and  falsehood  in  the  extreme.  The  prevalence  of  lying  among 
them  is  universal, — so  much  so,  that  the  practice  is  hardly  regarded 
as  a  sin,  or  a  disgrace,  in  the  general  estimation.  It  is  therefore 
necessary,  however  painful,  while  you  listen  to  their  smooth  coin- 


150 


CIVILIZATION  AT  TABREEZ. 


pliments  and  their  loud  professions  of  friendship,  to  keep  in  mind 
that  their  hearts  are  preeminently  deceitful,  and  "  the  poison  of 
asps  is  under  their  tongues."  And  the  general  degradation  of  their 
morals  is  appalling.  Almost  all  the  sins  forbidden  in  the  decalogue, 
are  fearfully  prevalent  among  them  ;  and  to  these  many  add  the  yet 
more  abominable  sin  of  Sodom.  They  are,  as  a  people,  however, 
by  no  means  destitute  of  kindness  and  hospitality, — particularly 
towards  strangers. 

Lest  I  should  be  suspected  of  coloring  either  the  bright  or  the 
dark  shades  of  Persian  character,  I  ought  perhaps  to  adduce  testi- 
mony which  fortunately  is  not  wanting.  Says  Kinnier,  in  a  pas- 
sage that  has  met  my  eye  since  writing  this  paragraph,  "  The  Per- 
sians are  a  remarkably  handsome  race  of  men  ;  brave,  hospitable, 
patient  in  adversity,  affable  to  strangers,  and  highly  polished  in  their 
manners.  They  are  gentle  and  insinuating  in  their  address,  and 
as  companions,  agreeable  and  entertaining ;  but,  in  return,  they  are 
totally  devoid  of  many  estimable  qualities,  and  profoundly  versed  in 
all  the  arts  of  deceit  and  hypocrisy.  They  are  haughty  to  their 
inferiors,  obsequious  to  their  superiors,  cruel,  vindictive,  treacherous 
and  avaricious,  without  faith,  friendship,  gratitude  or  honor."* 

Abbas  Meerza,f  the  father  of  the  present  king,  who  was  long  heir 
apparent,  resided  at  Tabreez  ;  and  the  management  of  most  of  the 
country  being  committed  to  him  by  his  father,  he  made  that  city,  much 
of  the  time  while  he  lived,  the  residence  of  the  English  and  Russian 
embassies.  From  this  circumstance,  and  from  its  extensive  com- 
merce with  Europe,  it  has  become  far  more  civilized  than  any  other 
city  in  Persia.  Its  inhabitants,  by  coming  so  much  in  contact  with 
Europeans,  are  much  less  bigotted  Mdhammedans  than  the  people 
of  other  parts  of  the  empire;  and  the  rapid  influx  of  general  intelli- 
gence and  European  manners  and  merchandize  has  given  to  the 
place  an  air  of  comfort  and  security  not  to  be  found  elsewhere  in 
Persia.  This  is  doubtless  by  far  the  most  eligible  situation  for  a 
mission  designed  exclusively  for  the  Muhammedans,  that  exists  in 
that  country.  Every  blow  struck  there,  will  be  felt  quickly  and 
deeply  on  all  other  parts,  through  the  channels  of  commerce  and 
civilization  that  emanate  thence  as  from  a  fountain-head,  in  all  di- 
rections ;  and  indirect  efforts  can  be  made  and  influence  exerted 
there,  by  the  Protestant  missionary,  to  enlighten  and  reform  the 
people,  with  safety  to  himself  and  acceptance  to  them,  which  would 
almost  anywhere  else  soon  rouse  the  jealousy  and  rage  of  the  priest- 
hood, and  bring  upon  him  the  fury  of  a  mob.  There  are,  however, 
obvious  and  important  advantages  in  operating  indirectly  on  the 
Muhammedans  of  Persia,  through  the  medium  of  missions  sent  ex- 
pressly to  the  nominal  Christians. 

"  Geographical  Memoir  of  tlic  Persian  Einpin;,  p.  22. 
t  Mecrza,  when  it  follows  a  name,  means  ti  prince,  when  '\\.jprceedes  the 
name,  it  means  a  scci  ctarij  or  scribe. 


RANKS  AND  CLASSES. 


15J 


The  first  in  rank,  at  Tabreez,  as  in  all  other  parts  of  Persia,  are 
the  *S7ia/t  Zddehs,  and  Emeer  Zddehs,  i.  e.  those  of  royal  blood, — 
the  former,  princes,  and  the  latter,  remoter  descendants  of  the  king. 
Though  proud  of  their  origin,  they  are  commonly  very  fond  of  Eu- 
ropean society,  and  entirely  accessible  to  foreigners,  but  loose  in 
their  principles  and  still  looser  in  their  morals. — Next  to  those  of 
royal  blood  are  the  priesthood,  who  as  a  class,  are  bigotted,  haugh- 
ty and  exclusive;  though  there  are  individuals  among  the  Moolldhs 
who  are  not  only  free  and  social  in  their  intercourse  with  foreigners, 
but  are  even  downright  Soofees,  (infidel  speculators).  The  Mool- 
lahs  usually  live  in  a  humble,  parsimonious  style,  regarding  this  as 
most  befitting  a  religious  order.  Their  influence  is  coinmanding 
and  often  terrific  when  developed  in  the  excitement  of  the  mobs, 
who  move  like  vanes  before  the  wind,  at  the  slightest  breath  of  hie- 
rarchal  dictation.  The  king  even  must  promptly  yield  when  the 
priesthood  are  opposed  to  him.  And  the  chief  Moollah  is  so  much 
revered,  that  the  dust  where  he  treads  is  sometimes  collected  and 
administered  to  the  sick  as  a  medicine. 

Next  in  grade  are  the  hhdns,  who  are  the  hereditary  nobility  of 
the  country,  though  the  rank  is  also  frequently  conferred  by  the 
throne,  on  individuals  of  the  lower  orders,  for  distinguished  merit  or 
service.  The  khans  keep  large  trains  of  servants,  live  in  luxury  and 
splendor,  affecting  often  more  than  princely  magnificence.  Unhap- 
pily, they  live  in  a  style  so  much  above  their  means,  as  to  be  always 
embarrassed  and  tempted  sorely  to  oppress  the  peasantry  in  the  vil- 
lages which  they  own,  or  those  belonging  to  government  and  com- 
mitted to  them  to  farm ;  as  a  class,  they  are  consequently  hated 
and  dreaded. — The  begs  (beys)  are  a  rank  of  nobility  a  grade  lower 
than  the  khans,  and  are  their  humble  imitators,  in  style  and  equipage, 
so  far  as  their  circumstances  and  means  will  allow. — The  merchants 
(Tajir)  are  the  men  of  business  and  the  depositaries  of  wealth.  They 
are  also  more  religious,  in  their  way,  than  either  of  the  other  classes, 
unless  it  be  the  raoollahs.  Numbers  of  them  make  the  pilgrimage 
to  Mecca  and  acquire  the  dignity  and  the  sanctity  of  Hdjies.  Their 
style  of  living  is  frugal,  never  extravagant,  and  not  often  beyond 
their  means. — The  hdjecs  are  proverbially  the  rich  in  Persia, 
whether  merchants,  landholders  or  usurers.  Many  of  them  follow 
the  latter  profession  ;  and  so  high  is  the  rate  of  interest — at  least 
twenty-five  per  cent. — that  they  soon  become  rich,  however  small 
the  capital  with  which  they  commence  business.  As  the  rate  of  in- 
terest is  not  limited  to  any  sum  by  law,  they  often  take  advantage 
of  the  necessities  of  the  needy  and  grind  the  face  of  the  poor,  prac- 
tising enormous  extortion,  particularly  on  the  nominal  Christians, 
from  whom  even  one  hundred  per  cent,  is  sometimes  exacted.  No 
wonder  that  such  a  class  should  in  Scripture  be  reprobated  and 
ranked  with  adulterers  and  murderers.  The  Mccrzas  are  profes- 
sional secretaries.  They  are  satellites  in  character  as  well  as  pro- 
fession ;  and  their  importance  is  graduated  by  the  compass  of  their 


152 


HEAD-DRESS  ASPECT  OF  CITIES  AND  VILLAGES. 


orbits,  revolving,  as  they  do,  respectively  around  the  king,  the 
princes,  moollahs,  khans,  begs,  merchants  or  hajees, — The  me- 
chanics and  cultivators  of  the  soil,  though  lowest  in  rank,  are,  as 
in  most  other  countries,  the  most  moral,  or  rather,  the  least  im 
moral,  and  the  worthiest  of  the  whole  population  ;  and  nowhere  are 
the  peasantry  more  active  and  laborious,  small  as  are  their  encour- 
agements to  industry,  than  in  Persia. — The  Dervishes  are  a  set  of 
religious  vagrants,  resembling  in  character  and  pretensions  the 
miserable  mendicants  of  another  faith  on  the  continent  of  Europe  ; 
and,  like  them,  they  are  the  most  worthless  dregs  of  society.  They 
are,  however,  dreaded  as  well  as  detested.  The  common  impres- 
sion is,  that  they  hold  so  intimate  and  mysterious  a  communion 
with  the  Deity,  that  to  offend  them  would  be  sure  to  incur  terrible 
calamity.  Their  expedients  to  obtain  charity  are  often  curious  and 
amusing.  They  sometimes  seat  themselves  before  the  gate  of  a  rich 
noble,  under  a  small  portable  awning,  which  they  carry  about  with 
them,  and  no  persuasion  will  induce  them  to  retire  for  days  or  weeks 
even,  till  the  sum  of  money  demanded  is  given  them.  They  are 
seldom  driven  away,  in  such  cases,  through  fear  of  their  impreca- 
tions. 

The  Se.yeds  are  the  reputed  lineal  descendants  of  the  Prophet. 
Many  of  them  are  found  in  the  priesthood  ;  and  in  whatever  grade 
or  condition  they  appear,  they  are  always  regarded  as  a  sacred  class 
and  treated  with  great  veneration.  They  are  distinguished  by  a 
green  or  blue  turban.  Only  the  religious  orders  wear  a  turban. 
The  other  classes,  from  the  king  (except  on  state  occasions)  down 
to  the  beggar,  wear  the  black  conical  cap  made  from  the  lamb- 
skins of  Bokhara,  whose  fineness  and  value  are  in  inverse  propor- 
tion to  the  age  of  the  animal, — the  dam  being  sometimes  killed,  the 
earlier  to  secure  the  skin  of  its  young.  The  drawings  of  these  seve- 
ral classes,  scattered  through  this  volume,  will  give  the  reader  a  good 
idea  of  their  respective  costumes  and  general  appearance. 

I  mentioned,  in  the  last  chapter,  that  we  entered  our  'own  hired 
house'  on  the  day  of  our  arrival  at  Tabreez,  and  that  it  was  with- 
out wood  floors  or  glass  windows.  Lest  the  reader  should  infer 
from  this  statement  too  much  in  relation  to  the  discomfort  of  the 
houses  in  Persia,  I  will  briefly  describe  them.  The  general  aspect 
of  cities  and  villages  in  that  country  is  very  sombre  and  uninviting, 
— far  more  so  than  that  of  any  human  abodes  I  have  seen  elsewhere, 
except  the  subterranean  villages  in  Armenia.  The  streets,  which 
are  narrow,  crooked,  irregular,  and  but  roughly  and  partially  paved, 
present  nothing  to  the  eye  but  dead  mud  walls  from  eight  to  fifteen 
feet  high.  These  are  penetrated  by  gates  or  doors,  small  and  low,  in 
proportion  to  the  prudence  as  well  as  the  standing  of  the  owner. 
For,  high,  large  gates  are  a  token  of  wealth,  which  provokes  the 
envy  of  equals,  who  will  not  be  slow  to  find  accusations,  or  the  cu- 
pidity of  superiors,  who  can  as  readily  find  pretexts,  sufficient  to  re- 
1  ieve  the  thrifty  owner  of  his  surplus  revenue,  if  to  strip  him  of 


HOUSES  WINDOWS  EXTERIOR. 


153 


nothing  more.  "  He  that  exalteth  his  gate,"  as  Solomon  warns  us, 
*'  seeketh  destruction." 

These  doors,  that  penetrate  through  the  mud  walls  lead  to  open 
courts,  or  squares,  on  the  further  side  of  which,  and  sometimes  on  all 
sides,  is  the  dwelling.  If  the  buildings  occupy  but  a  part  of  the  s.quare, 
the  remaining  portions  are  enclosed  by  high  mud  walls,  forming  a 
kind  of  fort,  for  security  against  robbers  and  the  intrusions  of  curi- 
osity. At  Tabreez,  this  open  court  is  several  feet  lower  than  the 
streets,  the  earth  on  the  spot  having  been  used  to  construct  the  edi- 
fices and  the  walls  that  enclose  them.  This,  however,  is  not  the 
case  in  all  Persian  cities. 

The  houses  in  Persia  are  of  three  general  orders,  corresponding 
in  appearance  and  expense  to  the  higher,  middle,  and  lower  classes 
of  the  people.  The  two  former  are  built  of  sun-dried  brick.  Palaces 
of  princes  and  rich  nobles  are  sometimes  built  of  burnt  brick  and 
lime,  like  the  arched  caravanserais ;  but  these  are  so  few  as  to  form 
only  an  exception.  In  regard  to  height,  the  houses  are  neither  one 
story  nor  two,  or  rather  they  are  both  ;  or,  more  strictly  still,  a  part 
of  each  is  one  story  and  a  part  of  it  two.  It  consists  of  a  range  of 
rooms  with  alternately  high  and  low  ceilings;  and  over  the  low 
rooms,  that  are  usually  the  halls  through  which  the  others  are  en- 
tered, low  upper  rooms  are  built,  whose  roofs  rise  but  little,  if  any, 
above  those  of  the  high  rooms  of  the  lower  story.  The  windows 
commonly  fill  the  whole  front  of  the  rooms,  except  the  spaces  occu- 
pied by  two  pillars  in  large  rooms ;  and  they  open  from  a  few 
inches  above  the  floor  to  a  height  of  five  or  six  feet.  A  room,  thus 
thrown  open,  is  delightfully  cool  in  summer,  especially  when 
shaded  by  the  spacious  canvass  awnings  used  in  Persia.  The  win- 
dow sashes  are  constructed  in  polyagonal  spaces,  in  appearance 
like  the  compartments  of  a  honeycomb, — one,  two,  or  three  inches 
in  diameter.  In  the  houses  of  the  higher  class,  these  sashes  are 
filled  with  small  diamond-shaped  pieces  of  Persian  glass,  which  is 
translucent  but  not  transparent,  corresponding  in  size  to  the  inter- 
stices, and  of  various  bright  glaring  colors, — and  the  whole  window 
gives  to  the  room  a  very  brilliant,  imposing  appearance.  A  single 
window  of  a  Persian  parlor,  thus  glazed,  costs  from  100  to  150  or 
200  dollars.  The  middle  class  of  the  Persians  cover  their  sashes 
with  oiled  paper.  And  another  circumstance  in  which  their  houses 
diflfer  from  those  of  the  higher  class  is,  that  the  latter  are  mounted, 
in  front  with  a  projection  from  two  to  five  feet  wide,  which  consists 
of  jutting  rafters,  inclining  a  little  upward,  on  which  jointed  plank 
are  fitted,  and  the  whole  is  often  tastefully  painted  and  perhaps  cu- 
riously carved.  This  projection  adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  the 
edifice,  as  well  as  protects  its  walls  and  windows  from  the  weather. 
The  middle  class  have,  if  any,  only  the  less  expensive  and  less  im- 
posing, projection,  of  a  row  of  wide  tile  or  brick. 

The  outside  of  the  houses  is  plastered  over  with  a  mixture  of 
20 


154 


INTERIOR  COURTS  LUXURY. 


mud  and  cut  straw,*  which  gives  them  a  somewhat  neat  and  agree- 
able appearance,  especially  if,  as  is  usually  the  case,  the  margins  of 
the  windows  and  doors  are  skirted  with  borders  of  white  plaster,, 
which,  alternating  with  the  spaces  of  brown  mud,  impart  to  the  front 
a  lively  variety. 

When  we  enter  the  house  of  a  Persian  noble,  we  forget  that  its 
walls  and  exterior  surface  are  of  mud.  The  rooms  are  beautifully 
plastered  with  the  whitest  gypsum,  which  is  abundant  in  all  parts 
of  the  country,  and  the  floors  are  spread  with  the  richest  carpets  of 
the  East.  It  is  no  penance  to  a  European  to  sit  on  such  floors,  ex- 
cept the  constraint  to  which  the  novel  position  subjects  his  limbs, 
particularly  when  girded  in  tight  pantaloons.  The /oors  of  these 
houses  arelirst  plastered  with  a  mixture  of  lime  and  earth,  and  thus 
rendered  level  and  hard;  then  covered  with  a  thin  mat,  made  from 
a  reed  resembling  the  stalks  of  broom  corn,  upon  which  the  carpets 
are  spread. 

Instead  of  the  walls  being  dead  surfaces,  in  the  interior  of  the 
rooms,  they  are  relieved  by  a  row  of  recesses,  about  three  feet  square, 
the  same  height  from  the  floor,  and  a  few  inches  deep, — at  intervals 
of  a  foot  or  more  from  each  other.  High  rooms  have  two  rows  of 
such  recesses,  with  a  ledge  projecting  two  or  three  inches,  to  sepa- 
rate them.  The  primary  purpose  of  this  arrangement  is  taste  ;  but 
the  utilitarian  can  make  the  recesses  serve  also  the  convenient  use 
of  book-cases,  and  cup-boards.  The  plastering,  in  Persian  rooms, 
is  also  often  wrought  into  diamond  and  other  shaped  figures,  and 
flowers  and  elegant  cornices.  And  the  walls  are  not  unfrequently 
painted  ;  sometimes  painted  and  gilded ;  and  in  rare  instances, 
they  are  almost  wholly  lined  with  mirrors.  I  have  never  beheld  better 
mason  work,  whether  of  walls  or  plastering,  than  is  common  in  Per- 
sia. The  courts  of  the  higher  classes  are  nicely  paved,  on  the  borders 
and  through  the  centres,  with  smooth  stc«ie  or  tile ;  and  the  inter- 
vening spaces  are  decorated  with  flower-beds,  rose-bushes  and  other 
shrubbery,  and  often  with  bubbling  fountains. 

As  I  have  beheld  princes  and  nobles,  in  their  mansipns,  reclining 
and  lolling  on  their  soft  carpets,  under  the  shade  of  their  broad 
canvass  awning  stretched  above  the  windows,  of  a  hot  summer's 
day, — supported  by  soft  cushions  and  pillows  under  their  arm-pits, 
gurgling  the  calee6on,i  or  sipping  the  iced  sherhet,X — regaled  by  the 
fragrance  of  the  flower-garden  and  the  chirping  and  cooing  of  birds 
in  their  cages  suspended  from  the  shrubbery  or  skipping  free  in  its 
branches,  my  early  conceptions  of  an  eastern  paradise  have  seemed 
to  be  realized.  When  however  we  remember  the  corroding  appre- 
hensions that  incessantly  prey  upon  their  minds  in  the  uncertain 
tenure  of  their  wealth,  and  the  peril  of  their  lives  in  that  land  of  des- 


*  This  mixture  is  perhaps  similar  to  that  mentioned  in  Scripture,  as  used 
in  Egypt.    The  straw  is  cut  up  fine,  in  the  process  of  threshing, 
t  Water  pipe.  X  A  drink,  resembling  lemonade. 


ROOFS  HOUSES  OF  THE  PEASANTS. 


155 


potism,  the  burning  passions  that  war  in  their  bosoms  and  the  poig- 
nant stings  of  a  buffetting  conscience  for  tlieir  iJl-gotten  gain  if  for 
no  worse  crime,  which  embitter  the  sweetest  cups  of  their  luxury  and 
implant  thorns  in  their  pillows  of  down, — there'is  little  in  such  a  par- 
adise to  covet  or  envy. 

The  middle  class  plaster  their  rooms  often  with  tiie  simple  mixture 
of  straw  and  mud, — the  same  as  is  used  on  the  outside;  and  their 
floors  are  spread  of  course  with  carpets  of  an  inferior  quality.  They 
content  themselves  also  with  rude  pavements,  or  the  naked  earth,  in 
their  courts,  and  a  small  open  rill  taken  from  the  larger  canals,  in 
the  place  of  marble  fountains. 

The  roofs  of  the  houses  in  Persia  are  flat,  and  terraced  over  with 
earth.  Stout  timbers  are  first  laid  across  the  walls,  about  two  feet 
apart.  These  are  covered  over  with  small  split  sticks  of  wood,  at 
intervals  of  perhaps  three  inches,  on  which  are  spread  rush  mats, 
like  those  I  hape  mentioned  as  used  on  the  floors.  Then  succeeds 
a  thick  layer  of  a  rank  thorny  weed  which  grows  abundantly  on  the 
mountains,  in  a  bushy,  globular  form,  a  foot  or  two  in  diameter. 
This  weed  is  so  resinous  as  not  soon  to  decay — is  an  excellent  ar- 
ticle of  light  fuel  and  is  much  used  for  burning  brick,  heating  ovens, 
etc.  It  may  be  that  "grass  of  the  field  which  to-day  is,  and  to- 
morrow is  cast  into  the  oven,"  as  mentioned  by  our  Saviour.  Upon 
the  thick  layer  of  this  weed,  is  spread  a  coat  of  clay  mortar  and 
trodden  down ;  and  next  a  stratum  of  dry  earth,  six  or  eight  inches 
deep,  over  which  is  plastered  a  layer  of  the  mixed  straw  and  mud. 
An  occasional  depression,  on  the  back  edge  of  the  roof,  furnished 
with  a  spout  a  few  feet  long,  conducts  off  the  water.  The  soil  is  so 
tenacious,  in  all  parts  of  Persia,  that  there  is  little  danger  that  a 
roof,  thus  constructed,  will  be  pervious  to  the  rain,  if  kept  in  a  state 
of  good  repair.  It  should  be  annually  plastered  over  with  the  straw 
and  mud,  which  will  be  worn  and  washed  off,  by  the  exposure  of  a 
season,  and  snow  must  be  thrown  off  with  a  shovel  as  soon  as  it  falls. 
These  flat  roofs  are  pleasant  promenades,  for  summer  evening  walks ; 
and  the  natives  usually  sleep  upon  them,  during  the  warm  season, 
for  the  sake  of  the  cool  air  and  freedom  from  vermin.  There  is  no 
exposure  in  thus  sleeping  out,  as  there  is  no  dew  in  Persia.  The 
roofs  should  be  secured  with  balustrades,  that  one  family  may  not 
gaze  upon  the  other's  premises.  Persian  law  sanctions  the  stoning, 
without  trial  or  mercy,  of  all  who  are  guilty  of  such  an  offence ; 
and  the  reader  will  recollect  the  sad  misfortune  and  sin  into  which 
king  David  fell,  in  consequence  of  indulging  an  idle  curiosity,  while 
walking  upon  the  terrace. 

I  mentioned  three  orders  of  houses,  and  have  as  yet  described  but 
two.  In  the  third  class,  or  that  of  the  peasants,  the  walls  are  built 
of  mud,  (not  of  wnburnt  brich,)  but  one  story  high,  and  that  is  com- 
monly low.  The  soil  is  so  strong,  in  Persia,  that  water  has  only  to 
be  conducted  upon  almost  any  spot,  to  form  tenacious  mortar,  which 
is  dug  up  with  a  spade  and  slightly  worked  by  the  feet  of  men,  and 


156 


OVEN  ^BHEAD  LODGING. 


then  laid  into  a  wall,  (piece  being  thrown  upon  piece  by  hand,)  four 
feet  thick  and  three  feet  high.  This  is  allowed  to  harden  and  dry 
a  few  days,  when  another  layer,  of  similar  dimensions,  but  a  little 
thinner,  is  laid  upon  it,  and  the  same  process  is  repeated  until  the 
wall  is  carried  up  to  the  desired  elevation.  These  walls,  when 
thoroughly  dried,  are  very  hard,  and  if  kept  dry  by  being  plastered 
over  with  mud  and  straw,  may  last  for  ages.  The  walls  that  enclose 
the  courts  of  the  houses  and  the  walls  of  the  towns  in  Persia,  are  of 
this  same  construction,  the  thickness  at  the  bottom  being  commenced 
in  proportion  to  the  intended  height.  The  roofs  of  the  peasants' 
houses  have  no  projections ;  nor  have  their  houses  any  windows, 
except  a  hole  in  the  roof,  which  is  an  outlet  for  the  smoke,  and  ad- 
mits a  few  rays  of  light. 

The  oven  (tannoor,)  in  the  villages  of  Persia  resembles  the  ovens 
in  Armenia.  It  consists  of  a  circular  hole  in  the  earth,  about  three 
feet  deep  and  perhaps  two  in  width  at  the  top  and  three  at  the  bot- 
tom, with  a  flue  entering  it  at  the  bottom  to  convey  air  to  the  fire. 
This  hole  is  internally  coated  with  clay,  which  soon  hardens  into 
tile.  The  bread  is  drawn  out  into  cake^  from  two  to  three  feet  long, 
eight  or  ten  inches  wide,  and  of  scarcely  the  thickness  of  a  common 
dining  plate.  It  assumes  this  shape  almost  in  a  moment  by  the 
wonderful  tact  of  the  matron,  who  simply  tosses  a  piece  of  dough 
rapidly  from  hand  to  hand.  Thus  drawn  out  like  a  membrane,  it 
is  laid  upon  a  cushion  and  stuck  upon  the  side  of  the  oven,  where 
it  attaches  and  crisps  in  a  few  seconds,  and  another,  as  quickly 
made  ready,  succeeds  to  the  same  place.  Bread  in  the  cities  differs 
from  this,  only  in  being  made  of  flour  more  finely  sifted  and  in  cake.s 
perhaps  twice  as  thick,  which  are  baked  on  the  bottom  of  larger 
ovens  paved  with  pebbles.  The  thin  bread  soon  dries  and  may 
long  be  preserved.  Except  in  case  of  journeys,  however,  it  is 
usually  baked  every  day  and  eaten  fresh.  And  the  thicker  species 
very  soon  becomes  heavy  and  unpalatable.  Bread  is  always  leaven- 
ed in  Persia  by  a  small  piece  of  dough,  preserved  from  day  to  day. 
The  tannoor,  or  oven  of  the  peasants,  serves  also  the  important  pur- 
pose of  warming  their  houses  in  winter.  To  do  this  the  more  ef- 
fectually, it  is  converted  into  a  Tandoor,  by  laying  a  flat  stone,  or 
a  large  earthen  cover  made  for  the  purpose,  upon  the  top,  and 
placing  over  it  a  frame,  resembling  a  table,  four  or  six  feet  square 
and  perhaps  a  foot  high,  and  covering  the  whole  with  a  large  quilt 
that  extends  to  the  earth  on  the  sides.  The  oven  is  heated  only 
once  a  day,  for  baking  and  cooking.  But  the  hole  in  the  roof  be- 
ing closed  after  the  smoke  passes  out,  and  the  warmth  retained  in 
the  oven  in  the  manner  I  have  described,  a  single  fire  is  made  to 
suffice  for  twenty-four  hours.  The  whole  family,  or  rather  the  house- 
hold, consisting  of  three,  four,  or  five  generations  as  the  case  may 
be,  and  commonly  not  less  than  twelve,  fifteen,  or  more  individuals, 
encompass  the  tandoor  with  their  feet  under  the  qailt,  and  at  night, 
spread  their  couches  around  it  and  form  a  circle  by  placing  their 


FLOWERS  TREES  FURNITURE  BRIBES. 


157 


feet  near  the  fire  while  their  heads  radiate  from  it,  and  thus  they 
socially  sleep. 

Each  house  of  the  peasants  in  Persia  has  its  open  courts,  enclosed 
by  walls,  and  the  stables,  barns  and  store-rooms,  unlike  those  in  Ar- 
menia, are  entered  by  different  doors  from  that  which  conducts  to 
the  apartment  of  the  family.  The  traveller,  however,  there,  as  well 
as  in  Turkey,  finds  his  lodging-place  in  the  corner  of  the  stable,  ex- 
cept among  the  native  Christians,  who  will  generally  give  him  his 
choice  between  the  stable  and  the  quarters  occupied  by  the  house- 
hold. 

The  premises,  in  the  villages,  are  contiguous  to  each  other  for 
the  sake  of  security.  But  the  roofs  of  the  houses,  among  the  pea- 
sants there,  where  the  manners  are  more  simple  and  the  morals  bet- 
ter than  among  the  higher  classes  in  the  city,  are  seldcm  guarded 
with  balustrades,  though  the  families  sleep  upon  them  in  summer. 
Their  courts  are  usually  their  farm-yards.  But  such  is  the  fondness 
of  all  classes  in  Persia  hr  jlowers,  that  a  small  patch  in  the  court  of 
even  the  humblest  dwelling  is  often  kept  as  a  flower-garden.  And  ano- 
ther circumstance,  in  which  the  villages  in  Persia  differ  widely  from 
those  of  adjacent  Turkey,  is,  the  existence  of  clusters  of  trees  in  or 
near  them,  which  afford  a  most  grateful  contrast  to  the  traveller,  as 
he  enters  that  country,  from  the  dreary  regions  on  the  west,  where 
a  tree  may  not  have  met  his  eye  for  many  a  wearisome  hundred 
miles.  The  force  of  this  contrast  is  fully  felt,  when  one  descends 
into  the  vale  of  Khoy,  on  the  route  from  Erzroom. 

Our  house  at  Tabreez,  according  to  the  division  I  have  made  and 
the  description  I  have  given,  was  of  the  middle  class.  And  Mr.  Nis- 
bet  lent  us  four  chairs  and  a  small  table,  which  served  us  comfort- 
ably until  we  found  it  convenient  to  furnish  ourselves.  A  few  of 
my  largest  boxes  were  our  only  bedstead  for  several  years, — though 
after  removing  to  Oroomiah,  we  taught  the  Nestorian  joiners  to 
make  very  good  chairs,  tables  and  bedsteads.  The  want  of  tempo- 
ral comforts,  whether  in  houses,  furniture  or  food,  in  that  land  of 
plenty,  is  among  the  least  of  the  self-denials  of  the  missionary. 

Having  with  me  no  other  drawing  of  a  Persian  house  than  our 
Seminary,  I  give  that  to  the  reader.  It  presents  the  common  ap- 
pearance of  a  rude  mud-walled  building,  though  it  does  not  fully  an- 
swer to  either  class  of  the  dwellings. 

"Did  you  try  the  virtue  of  b7'ibes  in  Georgia?"  was  one  of  the 
first  inquiries,  made  by  our  English  friends,  on  our  arrival  at  Ta- 
breez, while  they  expressed  their  sorrow  and  their  sympathy,  for  our 
sufferings  in  that  country.  It  occurs  to  me,  that  the  same  inquiry 
may  have  arisen  in  the  mind  of  the  reader,  particularly  if  he  is  ac- 
quainted with  travelling  in  wild  countries.  I  will,  therefore,  answer 
it.  But  lest  the  term,  bribe,  from  the  pen  of  a  missionary,  should 
startle  him,  I  will  premise,  that  when  used  in  the  East,  it  may  sig- 
nify the  purchase  of  mercy  from  an  oppressor,  as  well  as  of  favor  or 
injustice  from  an  unprincipled  magistrate. 


158 


TRAVELLING  IN  GEORGIA. 


Bribery,  or  presents,  as  a  means  of  purchasing  kind  treatment,  is 
one  of  the  first  dictates  of  common  feeling,  which  a  traveller  recog- 
nizes on  entering  Georgia,  almost  as  naturally  as  he  would  resort  to 
it  to  purchase  life,  among  savages.  But  money,  though  doubtless 
the  best  of  all  expedients  to  obtain  favor  in  that  country,  is  not  al- 
ways effectual.  There  are  cases  where  the  love  of  lucre,  even  there, 
is  over-ruled  by  conflicting  motives.  Officers  sometimes  make  a 
desperate  effort,  rejecting  all  presents  and  disregarding  the  suffer- 
ings of  the  traveller,  particularly  if  he  be  an  obnoxious  character,  as 
a  Protestant  clergyman  is  so  likely  to  be,  in  ultra  exactions,  in  the 
hope  of  thereby  redeeming  their  characters  in  the  view  of  their  supe- 
riors, which  is  notorious  for  bribe-seeking  extortion.  Such  seems  to 
have  been  their  policy  in  their  treatment  of  us,  and  English  travel- 
lers have  sometimes  been  made  examples  in  the  same  way,  though 
few  are  in  circumstances  to  suffer  to  the  extent  to  which  we  suffer- 
ed. Had  I  been  alone  in  Georgia,  I  should  have  little  regarded  a 
much  longer  stay,  among  my  European  acquaintances,  as  they  so 
much  desired  it.  But  the  presence  of  a  lady  gave  to  our  situation  an 
aspect,  especially  to  a  husband,  distressingly  tragical. — The  strong 
motive  of  missionary  economy,  as  well  as  of  our  relief  from  perilous 
exposure,  urged  me  to  make  trial  of  pecuniary  offers;  for  I  dreaded 
the  expense  of  sending  back  our  effects  to  Erzroom,  and  re-trans- 
porting them  to  Persia.  But  money  even  could  procure  for  us  nei- 
ther favor,  mercy  nor  justice  in  Georgia. 

From  my  experience  and  knowledge  on  the  subject,  1  could  re- 
commend no  one  to  attempt  to  travel  in  that  country,  without  more 
influence  than  either  money  or  a  passport  from  a  Russian  ambassa- 
dor at  a  foreign  court  will  secure.  A  few  of  the  first  officers  there, 
as  I  have  suggested,  are  generally  men  of  intelligence  and  kindness. 
If  a  traveller  can  seasonably  procure  letters  from  them  to  iheir  in- 
feriors, he  need  apprehend  no  serious  embarrassment.  But  the  sub- 
ordinate officers  into  whose  hands  he  naturally  falls,  are  probably  as 
bad  a  set  of  men  as  disgrace  the  world.  I  have  repeatedly  been 
informed,  by  German  missionaries,  who  long  resided  in  that  coun- 
try, that,  to  be  appointed  to  common  offices  in  those  remote  pro- 
vinces, is  considered,  in  European  Russia,  as  nearly  tantamount  to 
degradation  from  like  offices  at  home,  and  in  fact  as  little  short,  in 
the  common  estimation,  of  the  dreaded  punishment  of  official  delin- 
quents— an  exile  to  Siberia, — that  worthy  men  are  extremely  reluc- 
tant to  occupy  those  places,  so  great  is  their  seclusion  and  so  mea- 
gre the  remuneration, — and  that  it  is  regarded  as  no  matter  how  bad 
is  the  character  of  those  who  go  there,  if  they  only  have  zeal  enough 
for  their  government  to  guard  its  interests  with  rigorous  asperity. 
This  is  probably  a  fair  statement  of  the  case;  and  hence  it  is,  that 
the  poor  natives  in  Georgia,  are  writhing  under  an  oppression,  hard- 
ly felt  in  either  Turkey  or  Persia,  and  almost  every  traveller  must 
have  occasion  to  utter  a  tale  of  annoyances. 
T  have  sometimes  regretted  that  I  did  not  test  the  value  of  iny 


INTERPRETERS  ARRIVAL  OF  EFFECTS.  159 


American  citizenship,  in  the  affair,  by  reporting  it  to  our  minister  at 
St.  Petersburg.  For  I  have  the  presumption  to  hold,  that  the  mod- 
ern missionary  does  not  forfeit  his  citizenship,  any  more  than  did 
Paul,  by  the  nature  of  his  profession,  the  logic  of  certain  French 
jurists  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding.  Nor  has  he  less  right  to 
make  use  of  his  citizenship  than  had  an  apostle.  Nor  is  passive 
quiescence  under  wanton  oppression  from  wicked  and  unreasonable 
men  the  way  to  prevent  its  future  recurrence.  Such  quiescence  is 
in  fact  just  what  they  desire,  as  imposing  no  restraint  on  their  con- 
duct. They  ought  at  least  to  be  reported  to  the  world,  that  they 
may  have  the  benefit  of  cognizance  at  that  tribunaJ.  There  is 
moreover  so  much  collusion,  among  the  subordinate  otBcers  in 
Georgia,  that  the  traveller's  report  may  be  the  only  medium  through 
which  the  story  of  their  evil  deeds  could  reach  the  ears  of  their  su- 
periors and  lead  to  a  reformation.  At  the  same  time,  so  far  as  the 
missionary  himself  is  concerned,  it  is,  we  know,  a  blessed  privilege 
to  suffer  in  the  cause  of  Christ  and  for  righteousness'  sake,  even 
without  any  human  redress. 

Takvoor,  our  Armenian  interpreter,  went  back  from  Nakchevan, 
and  accompanied  my  prohibited  loads  fro.ni  Giimry  to  Erzroom. 
But  instead  of  coming  on  with  them  to  Persia,  according  to  agree- 
ment, he  left  them  there  and  made  the  best  of  his  way  to  Constanti- 
nople. This  act  of  treachery  1  could  have  excused  in  him  on  the 
ground  of  cowardice,  (and  I  certainly  had  little  to  regret  in  the  loss 
of  his  assistance,)  had  he  not  shown  himself  even  a  greater  ro^we 
than  coward.  1  had  before  had  reason  to  suspect  this  of  him  ;  but 
he  fully  proved  it  in  the  end,  by  bringing  in  exorbitant  bills,  both  at 
Erzroom  and  Constantinople,  of  expenses  on  the  way  which  he 
could  never  have  incurred.  The  locomotive  interpreters,  in  the 
Levant,  whether  Armenians  or  Greeks,  are  in  general  worthless 
fellows  and  but  miserable  assistance.  The  traveller  in  the  East 
will  almost  invariably  find  to  his  cost,  in  employing  them,  that 
*'  confidence  in  an  unfaithful  man,  in  time  of  trouble,  is  like  a  bro- 
ken tooth  and  a  foot  out  of  joint."  Their  prompt  activity  and  flip- 
pancy when  seeking  employment,  will  soon  be  exchanged  for  tardy 
inefficiency  when  the  service  is  commenced.  Back  in  the  interior, — 
at  least,  as  far  as  among  the  lawless  Koords  and  wily  Persians,  their 
imbecility  and  cowardice  disqualify  them  for  the  roughness  and 
difficulties  of  a  journey.  And  wherever  employed,  the  fact  will 
sooner  or  later  be  revealed,  that  their  main  object  and  chief  study 
is,  to  transfer  as  much  as  possible  of  their  employer's  purse  from  his 
pocket  to  their  own. 

My  loads  were  forwarded  by  Mr.  Zohrab,  in  the  course  of  the 
autumn,  after  the  Koordish  disturbances  had  been  quelled.  They 
reached  Tabreez  uninjured,  with  the  exception  of  single  volumes 
having  been  taken  from  several  valuable  sets  of  books,  whether  by 
officers  in  Georgia  or  by  Takvoor,  I  have  never  ascertained. 

The  reader  as  well  as  myself  is  now,  doubtless,  glad  to  dismiss 


]60 


MUHAMMED  MEERZA,  HEIR-APPARENT. 


OUT  troubles  in  Georgia  and  turn  again  to  other  subjects.  I  hardly 
need  remind  him  that  as  this  volume,  which  in  design  and  in  fact 
is  very  miscellaneous  in  its  contents,  is  principally  made  up  of 
journals  and  letters,  I  shall  find  it  convenient,  as  I  have  already  done, 
to  preserve  in  general  the  journal  and  epistolary  form,  often  using 
the  tenses  as  they  were  used  when  the  matter  was  first  penned.  Nor 
need  it  detract  from  its  interest,  to  have  incidents  and  impressions 
given  as  they  were  originally  recorded  ;  provided,  that  when  the 
original  statements  are  found  by  revision  or  increased  acquaintance 
with  the  subjects,  to  be  imperfect,  proper  corrections  and  qualifica- 
tions be  made. 

Sept.  13.  The  appointment  of  Muhammed  Meerza,*  son  of  Ab- 
bas Meerza,  by  the  old  king,  to  succeed  his  father,  as  regent  of 
Azerbijan  and  heir-apparent  to  the  throne,  is  regarded  as  quite 
auspicious  for  the  country.  This  prince  sustains  an  excellent 
character  for  a  Persian.  He  is  much  less  inclined  to  the  practice 
of  polygamy  and  its  attendant  evils,  than  has  been  the  case  with 
any  of  his  ancestors.  The  great  bane  of  Persia,  during  the 
present  reign,  has  been  the  multitude  of  royal  descendants.  Every 
tribe  and  almost  every.town  in  the  empire  has  had  its  petty  despot 
of  royal  blood.  The  king,  to  secure  his  throne  from  constant  as- 
sault by  his  own  children,  has  found  it  expedient  to  keep  them  in 
perpetiiai  wars  among  themselves.  Nothing  is  more  common  than 
to  hear  it  said,  "  prince  A.  is  raising  troops  ;"  and  to  the  inquiry, 
"  for  what  purpose  ?"  it  is  as  often  replied,  "  to  go  to  war  against 
his  brother,  prince  B."  Thus  the  country  has  been  systematically 
harrassed  and  impoverished,  a  considerable  part  of  the  long  reignt 
of  Feth  Ali  Shah,  who,  in  the  multitude  of  his  wives  and  descend- 
ants,J  probably  falls  little  short  of  king  Solomon  of  old.  The  heir- 
apparent  has  but  three  wives,  and  it  is  said  that  he  is  very  desirous, 
for  the  best  of  reasons,  of  reducing  that  number  to  one. 

Prince  Miihammed  is  reported  also  to  be  much  less  addicted  to 
prevailing  vices  than  the  mass  of  his  countrymen.  He  is  regarded 
as  a  man  of  veracity,  for  instance ;  and  the  Persian  is  rare  indeed 
who  possesses  this  character.  He  is  also  remarkably  modest  and 
averse  to  gorgeous  display.  It  is  even  with  reluctance  that  he  ap- 
pears in  his  costume  of  state  on  public  occasions.  And  he  seems, 
in  his  measures,  to  recognize  the  good  of  the  subject,  and  not 
merely  royal  emolument,  as  the  proper  object  of  government.<§,  He 


*  The  present  king.  t  More  than  forty  years. 

t  Prince  Malek  KAsem  Meerza  has  repeatedly  infonned  me  that  his  father 
left  just  one  hundred  children. 

§  My  impressions  of  the  present  king,  here  given,  have  not  been  materi- 
ally modified  by  the  developement  of  his  character  since  his  accession  to  the 
throne.  His  reign  is  much  more  vigorous  and  efficient  than  that  of  his  prede- 
cessor; and  if  the  condition  of  the  lower  classes  of  his  subjects  has  not  been 
ameliorated  to  the  extent  anticipated,  it  is  owing,  I  believe,  to  his  want  of 
sufHcient  energy  to  cope  with  the  almost  insurmountable  difficulties  in  the 


PUBLIC  ENTERTAINMENT  HORSEMANSHIP.  161 


is  a  vigorous  Muhammedan,  not  particularly  intolerant  towards  his 
christian  dependants,  but  singularly  punctilious*  in  the  observance 
of  all  the  formalities  which  his  religion  enjoins.  The  majority  of 
the  Persians,  particularly  those  of  elevated  rank,  are  becoming 
more  or  less  infidel. 

Persia's  best  hopes,  so  far  as  human  instrumentality  is  concerned, 
now  hang  upon  this  young  man.  But  there  is  fearful  probability 
that  these  hopes  will  fall  to  the  ground.  The  death  of  the  reigning 
king,  who,  (though  he  was  married  to  a  young  girl  a  few  weeks 
ago,)  is  more  than  seventy  years  old,  and  who  scarcely  survived  the 
last  winter,  is  confidently  predicted  by  all  parties,  as  near  at  hand. 
And  in  the  event  of  his  death,  numerous  aspirants  will  be  likely  to 
conflict  for  the  throne.  The  heir-apparent,  though  duly  appointed, 
holds  his  appointment  by  quite  an  uncertain  tenure.  Nothing  but 
an  army,  sufficient  to  sustain  him  in  a  vigorous  struggle,  seems 
likely  to  secure  for  him  the  empire.  Such  an  army  he  has  not,  and 
the  prospect  is  small  that  he  will  be  able  seasonably  to  collect  one. 
A  larcre  detachment  of  English  officers  arrived  here,  not  long  a^o, 
from  India,  to  aid  the  prince  in  disciplining  his  troops,  but  nothing 
has  yet  been  done. 

Oct.  11.  To-day  an  English  officer  entertained  the  Prince  royal 
with  an  exhibition  of  throwing  bombs,  on  the  plain  south  of  Ta- 
breez.  Mr.  Nisbet  kindly  invited  me  to  accon)pany  him  to  the 
scene,  and  furnished  me  with  a  horse  for  that  purpose.  All  the 
English  party  were  out  on  the  occasion,  and  perhaps  two  thousand 
Persians  were  in  the  train  of  the  prince.  He  is  a  large,  portly,  fine 
looking  man,  but  his  features  do  not  indicate  remarkable  talent. 
And  while  he  looks  healthy  and  robust,  he  is  unfortunately  much 
troubled  with  the  gout. 

The  prince  sent  a  horse  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  from  the  mortar,  to  be  tied  there  as  a  mark  for  the 
bombs.  The  poor  animal  was  more  frightened  than  harmed  by  the 
entertainment.  The  prince  and  his  retinue  were  highly  amused 
with  the  exhibition.  He  is  said  to  possess  much  of  his  father's  strong 
passion  for  war.  At  the  close  of  the  exhibition,  he  rode  off  over  the 
plain,  followed  in  courtly  order  by  his  great  train,  in  the  dignified, 
princely  gait  of  a  walk  ;  while  the  English  party,  with  the  ambas- 
sador at  their  head,  not  to  lose  so  good  an  opportunity  of  impressing 
the  Persians  with  their  horsemanship,  skipped  onward  like  deer  be- 
fore them.   On  coming  to  the  base  of  the  mountain,  they  started  up 


way,  in  a  country  overrun  and  scourged  with  a  corrupt,  oppressive  nobility, 
rather  than  to  any  want  of  desire  to  correct  abuses.  He  is  also  unfortunately 
blindfolded  and  niisled  by  the  counsels  of  a  bad  minister,  for  wJiom  he  cher- 
ishes an  almost  idolatrous  regard,  from  his  belief  in  the  minister's  superior 
religious  sanctity. 

*  It  is  believed  that  the  present  king  is  at  heart  a  Sooftle,  and  practises  the 
forms  of  MCihammedism  merely  that  he  may  be  acceptable  to  the  mass  of  his 
bubjects. 

81 


162 


BAPTISM  PAPISTS  AT  SALMAS. 


a  hare,  which  they  pursued  at  full  gallop  up  steep  precipices  and 
through  ravines,  till,  by  the  aid  of  a  dog,  they  ran  it  down.  The 
present  Persians  think  as  much  of  horsemanship  as  did  their  ances- 
tors in  the  days  of  Cyrus  of  old  ;  and  foreigners,  to  have  influence 
among  them,  must  be  possessed  of  this  manly  accomplishment. 

Oct.  12.  To-day,  for  the  first  time  in  Persia,  (Mrs.  P.  still  re- 
maining feeble,)  we  had  public  worship  at  our  house  and  our  babe 
was  baptized.  We  call  her  Charlotte  Nisbet, — Charlotte  being  the 
christian  name  both  of  Mrs.  P.  and  Mrs.  N. — the  infant's  kind  fos- 
ter-mother, during  her  mother's  distressing  sickness.  I  adminis- 
tered the  ordinance,  and  Dr.  Riach  presented  the  child  at  the  font. 
I  preached  on  the  occasion  from  the  23d  Psalm, — a  portion  of  Scrip- 
ture ever  precious,  but  especially  so  to  those  in  circumstances  like 
our  own.  About  a  dozen  persons  were  present,  of  six  different  na- 
tions, among  whom  were  our  German  missionary  brethren. 

Oct.  13.  Respecting  the  Nestorians,  I  have  as  yet  learned  no- 
thing, except  from  conversation  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Plaas,  who  came 
to  Tabreez  from  Shoosha,  some  months  ago.  His  companion,  Mr. 
Hoernle,  has  just  arrived.  They  are  acquiring  the  Persian  language 
with  reference  to  the  Muhammedans.  Seeing  the  Nestorians,  as 
sheep  without  a  shepherd,  Mr.  H.  has  endeavored  to  do  them  good, 
as  he  has  had  opportunity.  Some  time  since,  he.  sent  a  load  of  Sy- 
riac  New  Testaments  to  Salraas,  and  a  servant  to  superintend  their 
distribution.  They  were  disposed  of  mainly  among  the  Nestorian 
Catholics  of  Khosrova,  by  whom  they  were  received  with  eager- 
ness; but  a  priest,  on  the  following  Sabbath,  forbade  the  people  to 
read  or  retain  them,  until  the  subject  should  be  referred  to  the  Pope 
and  his  permission  be  obtained.  The  servant  reported  this  prohi- 
bition to  Mr.  H.  who  instructed  him  to  wait  on  the  priest  and  re- 
quest that  the  people  might  make  ti-ial  of  the  books  one  week,  and 
if  they  did  not  find  them  good,  they  might  return  them,  and  those 
who  had  purchased  should  receive  back  their  money.  The  priest, 
who  is  a  native  and  seems  not  to  be  as  wily  as  some  of  his  calling, 
complied  with  Mr.  Haas'  request  and  made  a  public  proclamation 
to  that  effect,  the  next  Sabbath.  The  servant  waited  ten  days  and 
not  a  book  was  returned.  The  Papists,  at  this  distance  from  Rome, 
possess  a  much  less  bigotted  spirit  than  European  Catholics. 

Reports  have  been  circulated  here  of  great  success  recently  real- 
ized by  the  Papists  in  making  converts  among  the  Nestorians.  It 
was  even  asserted,  that  the  Patriarch  at  Julamerk,  desponding  in 
view  of  their  low  estate,  had  declared  his  intention  of  soon  surren- 
dering himself  and  his  people  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Roman  Pon- 
tiff. Mr.  H.,  startled  at  the  frightfulness  of  such  a  purpose,  imme- 
diately addressed  a  letter  of  respectful  but  earnest  remonstrance  to 
the  patriarch,  which  I  give  to  the  reader.  His  foreign  idiom  in  the 
use  of  our  language  and  the  German  practice  of  inserting  the  chap- 
ter and  verse  in  the  references  to  Scripture,  will  of  course  be  under- 
stood and  not  impair  the  interest  of  the  letter. 


LETTER  TO  THE  PATRIARCH. 


163 


"  Tabreez,  December  31,  1833. 
To  his  Eininency,  Mar  Shimon,  at  Julamerk  ; 

From  thy  people  many  have  come  to  rae  of  late,  to  ask  me  for 
Syrio-Chaldean  books.  I  have  given  to  them  the  gospel,  which  the 
EngHsh  Bible  Society  has  printed,  out  of  love  to  the  Nestorians. 
Many  Christians  in  England  and  Germany  are  of  opinion  that  the 
Nestorians  are  not  carried  about  with  divers  and  strange  doctrines, 
(Heb.  13:  9,)  nor  tossed  to  and  fro  and  carried  about  by  every  wind 
of  doctrine,  by  the  slight  of  men  and  cunning  craftiness,  whereby 
they  lie  in  wait  to  deceive,  (Eph.  4:  14). 

So  likewise  I  myself  have  been  accustomed  to  believe,  and  have 
greatly  rejoiced  that  there  were  also  a  people  in  Asia,  who  esteemed 
the  word  of  God  of  the  Old  and  New  Testaments  of  higher  authority 
than  the  traditions  of  men.  But  how  was  I  suprised  and  grieved, 
when  I  heard  from  thy  people,  that  thou  hadst  declared  to  the  Pope 
at  Rome,  in  a  letter  forwarded  three  months  ago,  that  thou  desirest, 
with  thy  people,  to  pass  over  to  the  Roman  Catholic  religion.  1 
cannot  believe  that  thou  wilt,  with  thy  flock,  turn  off  thus  unto  those 
who  teach  for  doctrines  the  commandments  of  men,  (Matt.  15:  9). 
Beware,  reverend  Sir,  of  the  leaven  of  those  Pharisees,  (Matt.  16: 
12,)  who  lade  men  with  heavy  burdens,  grievous  to  be  borne  and 
will  not  touch  them  with  one  of  their  fingers,  (Luke  11:  46,)  who 
aspire  to  rule  over  all  people  and  countries,  while  the  apostles  them- 
selves would  not  exercise  dominion  over  their  flocks,  (2  Cor.  1:  24) ; 
and  have  given  direction  to  the  Pope  at  Rome  as  well  as  to  all  bish- 
ops, not  to  he  lords  over  God's  heritage,  (1  Peter  5:  3). 

I  cannot  conceive  what  advantage  the  Nestorians  can  hope  to 
derive,  from  becoming  Roman  Catholics.  Is  there  Paul,  or  Peter, 
or  the  Pope,  at  Rome,  crucified  for  us?  Or  are  we  baptized  in 
their  name  1  (1  Cor.  1:  13).  No,  surely.  And  for  this  very  reason, 
neither  bishops  nor  people  are  ever  to  rely  on  the  words  of  men, 
but  on  the  words  of  Christ  and  his  apostles.  The  words  of  the 
Pope  at  Rome  will  pass  away  ;  but  the  words  of  Christ  will  never 
pass  away  although  heaven  and  earth  shall  pass  away,  (Matt.  24: 
35).  Nor  shall  the  word  of  the  Pope  at  Rome  judge  us,  at  the  last 
day,  but  the  words  which  Christ  has  spoken,  (John  12:  48,)  and 
which  have  been  transmitted  to  us  in  the  New  Testament.  If  we 
but  have  this  precious  word  of  God,  all  things  are  ours;  whether 
Paul,  or  Apollos,  or  Cephas  (Peter,)  etc.,  (1  Cor.  3:  22). 

But  perhaps  the  Nestorians  say  in  their  hearts,  we  are  despised 
and  forsaken  of  all  other  Christians;  have  no  learned  men,  no 
schools,  no  books;  and  thus  are  we  ready  to  perish.  Do  not  im- 
agine, my  friends,  that  Christians  of  the  West  have  forgotten  you. 
There  are  many  who  like  you  do  not  receive  the  commandments  of 
men,  but  build  their  faith  only  upon  prophets  and  apostles  and  Je- 
sus Christ,  the  way,  the  truth  and  the  life,  (John  14:  6).  These 


164 


STATE  or  THE  NESTORIANS. 


Christians  have  long  remembered  you  with  great  affection ;  and  that 
their  love  is  not  in  word  only,  the  gospel  which  they  have  prepared 
for  you  is  an  evidence. 

There  is  also  a  prospect  that  next  spring,  two  deputies  from  these 
Christians  will  come  to  Oroomiah,  to  render  you  brotherly  aid,  in 
distributing  Bibles.  They  will  also,  if  you  wish  it,  establish  schools 
for  you ;  print  the  necessary  school  books,  etc. 

Pardon  my  boldness,  revered  Sir,  in  which  I  thus  venture  to  ad- 
dress thee, — and  now  venture  in  conclusion  to  remind  thee  of  the 
fearful  words  of  the  apostle,  "  Whosoever  transgresseth  and  abideth 
not  in  the  doctrine  of  Christ  hath  not  God,"  (2  John  9).  ^nd 
again,  if  any  man  teach  otherwise  and  consent  not  to  wholesome 
words,  even  the  words  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  to  the  doc- 
trine which  is  according  to  godliness,  he  is  proud,  knowing  nothing, 
(1  Tim.  6:3);  and  finally,  "But  though  we,  or  an  angel  from 
heaven,  preach  any  other  gospel  unto  you,  than  that  which  we  have 
preached  unto  you,  let  him  be  accursed,"  (Gal.  1;  8). 

Allow  me  also  to  remind  thee  of  these  excellent  promises  :  "  Veri- 
ly, verily  I  say  unto  you,  if  a  man  keep  my  saying,  (not  the  saying 
of  men,)  he  shall  never  see  death,"  (John  8:  5).  Again,  "Whoso- 
ever shall  break  one  of  these  least  commandments  and  shall  teach 
mm  so,  he  shall  be  called  least  in  the  kingdom  of  heaven  ;  but  who- 
soever shaJI  do  and  teach  them,  the  same  shall  be  called  great  in 
the  kingdom  of  heaven,"  (Matt.  5:  19).  And  finally,  "  Because 
thou  hast  kept  the  word  of  thy  patience,  I  also  will  keep  thee  from 
the  hour  of  temptation,  which  shall  come  upon  all  the  world  to  try 
them  that  dwell  upon  the  earth/'  (Rev.  3:  10). 
With  sincere  reverence  and  love, 

I  remain  thy  Eminency's  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  Frederic  Haas. 

Evangelical  preacher — a  German  by  nation." 

No  answer  has  been  received  to  this  letter,  and  it  may  not  have 
reached  Julamerk.  From  subsequent  inquiries,  however,  Mr.  H. 
is  now  inclined  to  believe,  that  such  a  purpose  never  entered  the 
mind  of  the  Patriarch,  but  that  the  reports  were  fabricated  by  the 
Catholics,  to  frighten  the  simple  hearted  Nestorians  and  prepare 
them  the  more  readily  to  receive  the  Papal  yoke  as  presented  by 
themselves.  My  own  impression  is,  that  the  Nestorians  are  in 
much  the  same  state  as  when  visited  by  Messrs.  Smith  and  D wight. 
A  Protestant  missionary  should  of  course  reach  them,  with  the  least 
practicable  delay. 


JOURNEY  TO  OROOMIAH  PREPARATIONS. 


163 


CHAPTER  X. 

JOURNEY  TO  OROOMIAH. 

I  had  resolved  not  to  attempt  a  residence  in  the  remote  city  of 
Oroomiah,  until  I  should  be  joined  by  an  associate,  as  no  Europe- 
ans resided  there,  and  the  experiment  of  living  there  alone  was 
deemed  imprudent  by  all  our  English  friends  as  well  as  by  ourselves. 
I  was,  however,  desirous  of  visiting  the  Nestorians,  as  soon  as  prac- 
ticable, to  obtain  a  teacher  from  whom  1  might  learn  their  language 
while  remaining  at  Tabreez,  as  well  as  tci  become  better  acquainted 
with  the  state  of  the  field  ;  and  I  had  been  deferring  a  journey  for 
this  purpose,  after  my  arrival  in  Persia,  only  until  Mrs.  Perkins  should 
be  raised  to  a  state  of  health  that  would  render  it  practicable  for  me 
to  leave  home.  Mrs.  P.  had  only  partially  recovered,  but  1  left  her 
in  good  hands.  Mrs.  Haas  took  her  into  her  family  and  nursed  her 
with  the  tenderness  of  a  sister,  and  Dr.  Riach  continued  his  medi- 
cal assiduities  during  ray  absence  in  the  same  manner  as  before. 

Though  my  particular  object,  in  visiting  Oroomiah,  so  soon  after 
reaching  Persia,  was  little  more  than  to  obtain  a  teacher,  I  must,  in 
doing  this,  be  brought  more  or  less  in  contact  with  the  most  influ- 
ential  of  the  clergy,  as  well  as  with  many  of  the  people.  I  therefore 
took  with  me  a  considerable  quantity  of  Syriac  books  for  distribu- 
tion, and  in  the  place  of  an  interpreter,  the  good  German  brother, 
Mr.  Haas,  had  the  great  kindness  to  accompany  me.  He  is  him- 
self familiar  with  the  Armenian  language,  and  he  took  with  him  an 
intelligent  Armenian  servant,  through  whom  we  were  able  to  con- 
verse with  tolerable  ease  and  confidence,  alike  with  Nestorians  and 
Muhammedans. 

Sir  John  Campbell,  the  English  ambassador,  kindly  procured  for 
me  a  passport  from  the  Kdini  MaJcdm,  (acting  minister, — literally, 
pillar  of  state,)  to  enable  me  to  secure  comfortable  lodgings  on  the 
road,  and  letters  from  the  prince  and  vizier,  and  wrote  himself  also, 
to  the  governor  of  Oroomiah,  commending  me  to  his  kindness  and 
aid  while  T  should  remain  among  his  people. 

Oct.  15.  Thus  furnished,  we  set  off  about  10  o'clock,  A.  M.  for 
Oroomiah.  Our  company  consisted  of  myself  and  servant,  and  Mr- 
Haas  and  his  servant.  Three  horses,  in  addition  to  those  we  rode, 
were  required  to  carry  my  books  intended  for  distribution,  and  our 
travelling  baggage.  The  weather  was  delighful — like  summer, — yet 
not  so  oppressively  warm.  As  a  general  rule,  September  and  Octo- 
ber are  the  months  for  travelling,  in  the  north  of  Persia.  In  spring, 
the  roads  are  extremely  muddy.  The  heat,  in  summer,  is  almost  in- 
tolerable ;  and  about  the  first  of  November,  the  fall  fains  commence, 


166 


ALI  SHAH  MIRAGE  FUNERAL. 


which  continue,  more  or  less,  until  snow  and  severe  winter  weather 
succeed. 

We  rode  across  the  great  plain,  a  little  to  the  south  of  west,  six 
fursdkhs*  and  stopped  for  the  night  at  the  village  of  Ali  Shah,  king 
All.  It  is  a  Muhammedan  village ;  contains  about  one  hundred 
houses  and  pays  an  annual  tax  of  six  hundred  tomans  ($1,500)  to 
government;  and  this  is  probably  about  the  usual  rate  of  taxation 
in  the  north  of  Persia.  The  villagers  seemed  frightened  at  our  ar- 
rival, apprehending  that  we  had  come  to  take  away  either  them,  their 
property  or  some  of  their  rights;  and  many  shut  themselves  up  in 
their  houses.  The  Kcthhodeh,  (lord  of  the  village,)  who  is' obliged 
to  provide  lodgings  for  travellers,  was  absent,  and  we  wandered 
about  in  vain,  in  search  of  a  comfortable  shelter,  until  near  sunset. 
Nothing  but  stables  were  offered  us ;  and  those,  the  most  filthy  and 
wretched  in  kind.  We  had  nearly  concluded  to  encamp  in  the  open 
air,  when  the  Ketkhodeh  came  home.  I  showed  him  ray  order  from 
the  Kaim  Makam,  and  he  conducted  us  to  a  very  comfortable  room, 
white-washed  and  carpeted. 

In  crossing  the  great  plain,  which  is  most  of  the  way  uninhabited 
and  uncultivated,  we  observed  a  striking  example  of  the  optical  illu- 
sion so  common  in  eastern  countries,  called  the  mirage.  For  many 
hours,  we  could  hardly  persuade  ourselves,  that  the  lake  was  not  di- 
rectly before  us  and  near  at  hand, — the  authority  of  our  maps  and  the 
living  testimony  of  our  servants  to  the  contrary  notwithstanding. 
It,  however,  receded  just  as  fast  as  we  advanced,  until  we  approach- 
ed so  near  the  western  mountains,  that  it  gradually  vanished  from 
before  us. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  the  village,  a  funeral  procession  march- 
ed out  in  front  of  the  mud-waJled  mosk  and  recited  prayers.  The 
corpse  was  borne  upon  a  bed,  gaudily  ornamented  with  silks  and 
shawls,  and  placed  upon  a  frame  resembling  a  common  bier  without 
legs.  The  deceased  was  a  female,  and  of  such  rank,  wealth,  and 
liberality  to  the  moollahs,  as  to  entitle  her  to  an  interment,  within 
the  precincts  of  Kerbula,  a  town  near  Bagdad,  hallowed  by  the  ash- 
es of  Hoosein  and  Hassan,  sons  of  Ali,  patron  saints  of  the  Shi- 
ite  Mohammedans.  Thither,  a  distance  of  many  hundreds  of  miles, 
and  over  mountains  frightfully  infested  by  Koords,  the  corpse,  as 
they  told  us,  was  to  be  soon  transported,  or  an  eligible  place  in  Par- 
adise might  be  lost. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening,  the  owner  of  the  house  where  we 
lodged,  came  into  our  room  to  make  our  acquaintance.  Observing 
me  taking  notes,  he  inquired  whether  I  should  not  record  the  name 

*  The  fursAhh — the  ■parasang  of  Xenophon — which  is  still  the  common 
measure  of  distance  in  Persia,  is  usuall}'  reckoned  equal  to  about  four  English 
miles;  but  it  is  probably  more  ;  I  think  it  at  least  four  miles  and  two  thirds. 
The  distance  is  seldom  performed  by  a  smart  pace,  in  an  hour.  Jlghaj,  tree, 
is  a  Turkish  term,  V7hich  is  also  used  in  the  north  of  Persia,  to  express  the 
same  distance. 


PEKSIAN  POLITENESS  TRilDE. 


167 


of  our  host !  a  point  which  I  omitted  to  note  down  at  the  time,  and 
I  have  it  not  therefore  in  my  power  to  pay  him  the  attention.  His 
house,  he  said,  was  the  only  comfortable  one  in  the  village, — that 
gentlemen  of  distinction  who  pass  tliat  way  always  become  his  guests, 
— that  Prince  Abbas  Meerza  had  lodged  in  the  same  room  which 
we  then  occupied,  and  was  so  much  pleased  with  his  entertain- 
ment that  he  bestowed  on  himself  a  pension  of  fifteen  dollars  annu- 
ally for  life.  All  this,  it  was  not  difficult  to  perceive,  was  intend- 
ed to  impress  us  with  his  consequence,  and  remind  us  of  the  pro- 
priety of  being  generous,  with  our  own  purses,  on  our  departure. 
Mr.  Haas,  to  change  the  theme,  told  him  that  I  was  from  tJie  New 
World.  But  he  had  little  conception  of  the  New  World,  and  said 
that  nothing  is  known  of  the  name  even  here,  only  as  it  is  incorpo- 
rated in  a  proverb.  When  one  has  wandered  from  his  home,  he 
continued,  and  is  supposed  to  be  dead,  on  his  ultimate  return,  the 
question  is  asked,  "  where  have  you  been,  to  the  New  World  7" 

In  our  flippant  host,  we  had  a  very  fair  specimen  of  Persian  po- 
liteness in  general.  As  he  introduced  us  into  our  lodgings,  he  re- 
peatedly declared  that  the  whole  house  was  no  longer  his  but  our 
own  ;  and  himself  and  all  his  family  were  our  humble  servants. 
Whenever  we  had  occasion  to  ask  for  anything,  he  would  respond, 
with  a  most  submissive  bow  and  both  hands  covering  his  face, 
Clieshmeh,  (my  eyes  for  it);  or  in  Turkish,  when  he  found  that  we 
did  not  comprehend  his  Persian,  Bdsh-ustd,  (upon  my  head) ;  Cor- 
bdn-oldni,  (may  I  be  your  sacrifice).  'If  he  did  not  understand  us 
in  any  case,  he  would  intimate  it,  by  a  rising  inflexion  of  voice  and 
an  obsequiousness  of  tone  peculiar  to  a  despotic  land,  as  though  beg- 
ging leave  to  be,  Booyoor,  Jdnuvi  7  (Command  me,  my  soul) ;  i.  e. 
dear  to  me  as  my  soul,  (life,)  condescend  to  repeat  your  orders.  In 
attempting  to  make  purchases  of  the  Persians,  as  we  had  repeated 
occasion  to  notice,  on  the  road  as  also  at  other  times,  the  article  de- 
sired is  always  at  the  outset, ^ei7iA:esA,  a  present  to  you;  and  its 
owner,  your  servant  and  your  sacrifice.  And  if  you  request  his 
terms,  he  reiterates  the  same  assurance,  until  you  strongly  insist  on 
his  naming  the  price,  when  he  at  length  tells  you,  that  since  you 
will  not  take  the  article  without  paying  him  for  it,  you  must  set  your 
own  price;  for  he  can  sc// nothirig  to  you.  Name  a  reasouablesum 
and  he  will  flatly  reply  that  you  shall  not  have  it  for  that ;  and  by 
this  time,  his  interest  has  got  so  much  the  better  alike  of  his  mod- 
esty and  generosity,  that  he  will  demand  twice  or  thrice  its  known 
value,  which  you  must  pay  or  take  the  trouble  of  beating  him  down. 
This  is  done  by  simply  leaving  him,  as  he  will  quickly  call  after  you 
to  take  the  article  at  the  price  you  had  offered.  I  know  not  how 
often  I  have,  in  imagination,  stood  by  the  side  of  Abraham,  nego- 
ciating  with  the  sons  of  Heth  for  a  place  to  bury  his  dead,  when  I 
have  been  purchasing  even  the  most  trifling  article  in  Persia.  As 
illustrating  Eastern  manners,  and  these  in  turn  throwing  light  upon 
Scripture,  I  may  quote  apart  of  the  passage  which  records  that  ceJ- 


168 


Abraham's  contract — presents. 


ebrated  transaction.  "  And  Abraham  stood  up  before  his  dead  and 
spake  unto  the  sons  of  Heth  saying:  I  am  a  stranger  and  a  so- 
journer with  you ;  give  me  possession  of  a  burying-place  with  you, 
that  I  may  bury  my  dead  out  of  my  sight.  And  the  children  of 
Heth  answered  Abraham,  saying  unto  him,  Hear  us,  my  lord  ;  thou 
art  a  mighty  prince  among  us  ;  in  the  cuoice  of  our  sepulchres  bu- 
ry thy  dead  ;  none  of  us  shall  withhold  his  sepulchre,  but  that  thou 
mayest  bury  thy  dead."  "  And  Ephron,  the  Hittite,  answered 
Abraham  in  the  audience  of  the  children  of  Heth,  even  all  that  went 
into  the  gate  of  the  city,  saying,  Nay  my  lord,  hear  me ;  the  field  I 
GIVE  thee ;  and  the  cave  that  is  therein,  I  give  it  thee ;  bury  thy 
dead.  And  Abraham  bowed  down  himself  before  the  people  of  the 
land.  And  he  spake  unto  Ephron  in  the  audience  of  the  people  of 
the  land  saying,  but  if  thou  wilt  give  it,  I  pray  thee  hear  me;  I  will 
give  thee  money  for  the  field  ;  take  it  of  me  and  I  will  bury  my  dead 
there.  And  Ephron  said  unto  Abraham,  My  lord,  hearken  unto 
me  ;  the  land  is  loorth  four  hundred  shekels  of  silver.  What  is  that 
betwixt  me  and  thee  !  bury  therefore  thy  dead.  And  Abraham 
hearkened  unto  Ephron  ;  and  Abraham  weighed  unto  Ephron  the 
silver  which  he  had  named,  in  the  audience  of  the  sons  of  Heth, 
four  hundred  shekels  of  silver,  current  money  with  the  mer- 
chant."* This  contract  exhibits  less  formality  than  business  trans- 
actions commonly  possess,  in  Persia,  at  the  present  time.  The  be- 
reaved patriarch  was  little  disposed  to  be  particular,  in  relation  to 
the  price  he  should  pay  for  a  place  to  bury  his  deceased  Sarah ;  and 
his  neighbors  would  not  probably  be  apt,  in  those  mournful  circum- 
stances, to  practise  all  the  finesse  that  was  common  in  trade  or  fully 
develop  their  avaricious  propensities.  The  general  resemblance, 
however,  to  Persian  transactions,  is  very  striking. 

On  journeys,  as  well  as  at  our  home,  in  Persia,  we  frequently  re- 
ceive, jtresmts,  for  which  an  extravagant  sum  is  always  expected  in 
return.  When  the  bearer  approaches  you,  he  will  almost  deluge 
you  with  a  flood  of  fulsome  compliments  and  expressions  of  devoted 
attachment  as  a  token  of  which  he  brings  you  the  present,  though 
he  had  never  seen  you  before ;  and  if  you  meet  his  wishes  from 
your  purse,  he  will  leave  you  with  the  mellifluous  stream  still  flow- 
ing, though  a  little  checked,  because,  as  he  tells  you,  you  have  so 
mortified  him  by  paying  him  anything,  that  he  can  no  longer  look 
you  in  the  face  and  can  scarcely  utter  a  word;  whereas,  if  you  oflfer 
him  only  a  fair  price  for  the  article,  he  will  manifest  the  deepest  dis- 
pleasure, reject  with  disdain  the  proffered  remuneration,  and  carry 
away  his  present,  loading  you  with  a  copious  measure  of  at  least 
secret  maledictions. 

Oct.  16.  Our  course  continued  westward.  A  ride  of  two  fCir- 
sakhs  brought  us  to  the  large,  beautiful  walled  village  of  Deezeh- 
khaleel.    It  contains  about  2,500  inhabitants,  and  has  a  more 


"Gen.  23:  3. 


LAKE  CASTOR-OIL  PLANT  MASSACRE. 


169 


cleanly,  inviting  appearance  than  any  village  I  had  seen,  in  either 
Turkey  or  Persia.  After  passing  Deezeh-khaleel,  we  advanced 
and  soon  came  quite  near  the  western  mountain;  and  rising  a  little 
upon  undulating  ground,  we  were  in  full  view  of  the  beauiiful 
Oroomiah  lake*  This  lake,  as  I  have  before  stated,  is  about  eigh- 
ty miles  long  and  frotn  twenty  to  thirty  broad.  Its  water,  in  parts 
where  the  shores  are  low,  is  only  a  few  feet — ^perhaps  six  or  eight — 
in  depth.  The  whole  lake  has  been  stated  by  travellers  to  he  thus 
shallow,  but  this  is  a  mistake;  where  the  shores  are  mountainous, 
and  at  some  distance  from  the  land,  in  all  parts,  it  is  quite  deep. 
The  water  is  very  salt,  some  of  the  tributaries  from  the  surround- 
ing mountains  being  brackish,  and  the  evaporation,  in  this  climate, 
and  from  so  large  a  surface,  being  immense.  A  thin  incrustation  of 
salt  is  deposited  on  some  parts  of  the  shore,  which,  in  our  distant 
view,  dazzled  under  the  bright  rays  of  the  sun,  like  a  broad  belt  of 
glittering  diamonds,  blending  with  the  skies. 

A  fursakh  and  a  half  from  Deezeh-khaleel,  brought  us  to  Kuza- 
khanah,  (quarry  of  drinking-cups,)  where  we  stopped  for  dinner. 
On  our  road  this  morning,  as  also  during  our  whole  journey,  we 
noticed  cotton  and  the  castor-oil  plant,  growing  in  vast  quantities. 
Both  are  cultivated  in  the  same  field.  The  oil  plant  grows  upon  the 
ridges,  and  the  cotton  in  the  small  enclosed  patches,  into  which  the 
whole  field  is  cut  up,  for  the  purpose  of  irrigation.  Castor-oil  is 
the  principal  article  used  by  the  peasants  in  Persia  for  lights.  We 
did  not  enter  the  village  of  Kuza-khanah,  but  encamped  near  the 
wall  of  a  garden,  under  a  wide-spreading  walnut,  sent  our  servant 
to  the  village  for  fuel  and  fruit,  and  in  the  grateful  shade,  cooked 
and  ate  the  provisions  which  we  had  brought  with  us.  This  village 
was  once  inhabited  entirely  by  Armenians.  It  was,  as  its  name 
implies,  an  earthen  ware  factory.  A  Muhammedan  one  day  enter- 
ed the  village,  and  reproached  the  Armenians,  by  telling  them  that 
their  ware  was  all  Hdrdm,  {unclean).  The  Armenians,  enraged  at 
the  insult,  murdered  the  Mcihanimedan  on  the  spot.  And  the  in- 
habitants of  the  surrounding  villages — all  Muhammedans — con- 
spired and  in  retaliation  put  to  death  every  Armenian  in  Kuza- 
khanah,  even  to  the  last  child.  The  village  is  now  inhabited  by 
Muhammedans,  and  about  half  of  the  old  Armenian  houses  are  still 
vacant  and  falling  to  ruins. 

We  proceeded  three  and  a  half  fursakhs  farther  and  stopped  at  Kara- 
tapa,  (black  hill,  thus  named  from  a  small  hill  near  by,)  situated  in 
a  valley  that  extends  up  from  the  lake  between  the  mountains 
toward  Khoy.  This  district  is  called  Giineh,  and  Tesooch  is  its 
principal  village.  The  view  of  the  lake  became  more  and  more 
charming,  the  nearer  we  approached  to  it.  Innumerable  ducks 
were  flying  with  singular  vivacity,  over  and  around  it.    And  seve- 


*  Called  also  Shfthi,  i.  e.  the  king's;  it  is  the  Spauto  of  Strabo  and  th? 
Marcianus  of  Ptolemy. 

22 


170 


ISLANDS' 


;  SALMAS' 


;  GEORGIAN  PRINCE. 


ral  mountain  islands,  lifting  themselves  from  the  quiet  waters  at 
some  distance  from  the  shore,  appear  in  fine  relief  and  impart  gran- 
deur to  the  beautiful  scene.  S/idhi,  the  largest  of  these  islands, 
which  is  much  of  the  year  a  peninsula,  is  many  miles  in  extent  and 
contains  a  number  of  Muhammedan  villages.  Large  quantities  of  a 
kind  of  hard  wood,  resembling  somewhat  Lignwn  vitac,  are  export- 
ed from  several  of  those  islands,  for  fuel  and  some  other  purposes, 
particularly  for  making  the  handles  of  joiners'  tools.  It  was  on  one 
of  those  islands  also  that  the  celebrated  Hoolakoo  Khan,  (grandson 
of  Jhengis,)  who  overthrew  the  throne  of  the  Caliphs,  built  his  trea- 
sure castles. 

For  about  two  miles  before  reaching  Kara-tapa,  we  passed  over 
marshy  uncultivated  ground,  impregnated  with  salt.  The  shortest 
road  here  runs  near  the  lake  and  is  almost  uninhabited.  Back  un- 
der the  mountains  is  another,  on  which  are  several  flourishing  vil- 
lages. Kara-tapa  has  only  about  thirty  families.  The  Ketkhodeh 
conducted  us  to  the  common  Menzil,  (lodging  place,)  which  we 
found  a  comfortable  room.  The  villagers  gathered  around  us  and 
we  entertained  them  with  some  account  of  the  New  World,  of  which 
they  had  before  heard  nothing.  We 'make  Ye-ngy  Dunia,  (New 
World,)  the  rallying  theme  among  the  Persians;  and  their  curiosity 
thus  becoming  excited,  it  is  easy  to  lead  them  into  conversation  on 
other  subjects.  I  told  the  villagers  here  that  a  liar  is,  in  my  country, 
classed  with  the  dregs  of  society.  They  replied  that  their  countrymen 
are  all  liars  and  rascals,  the  inhabitants  of  their  own  village  excepted. 
I  asked  them  what  report  I  should  then  make  of  the  Persians  when 
I  write  home.  "Report  them  just  as  you  find  them,"  they  an- 
swered. They  immediately  proceeded  to  apologize,  however,  for  the 
prevailing  vices  of  their  countrynjen,  referring  them  all  to  their 
civil  oppression.  "  We,  for  instance,"  said  they,  "  cannot  taste  a 
morsel  of  wheat-bread,  though  our  soil  is  so  rich.  We  can  reserve 
nothing  but  millet  for  ourselves ;  the  wheat  all  goes  for  taxes." 

Oct.  17.  We  started  early  and  rode  eight  fursakhs.  The  first 
four  were  on  the  bank  of  the  lake,  over  soil  the  same  as  yesterday, 
marshy  and  uncultivated.  The  villages  being  back  under  the 
mountains,  we  encamped  by  the  road-side,  at  a  small  brook,  and 
cooked  and  ate  our  dinner.  The  last  half  of  our  ride  led  us  back 
from  the  lake,  up  the  beautiful  valley  of  Salmas.  This  valley  is 
almost  perfectly  level,  studded  with  numerous  villages  and  gardens, 
and  watered  by  canals  taken  from  the  river  Zoolah,  which  is  a  con- 
siderable stream.  We  passed  through  the  walled  town  of  Dilman, 
the  capital  of  the  district,  and  reached  Kh6sr6va,  our  stopping-place, 
about  sunset.  We  were  conducted  to  the  house  of  the  Georgian 
prince,  (who  is  usually  called  Wally  Khan,)  for  lodgings.  A  brother 
of  this  prince  was  the  last  native  regent  of  Georgia.  He  delivered 
up  his  country,  by  treaty,  to  the  Russians,  and  this  prince  then  fled 
into  Persia,  where  he  enjoys  a  pension  from  government,  and  is 
still  encouraged  to  cherish  the  vain  hope  of  one  day  obtaining  the 


PAPISTS  A  NESTORIAN  ADVENTURER. 


171 


throne  of  his  native  country.  The  prince  himself  was  now  at  Ta- 
breez  ;  bat  a  number  of  his  servants  and  other  villagers  gathered 
around  and  welcomed  us  to  his  dwelling.  The  Ketkhddeh  in- 
quired what  he  should  provide  for  us?  We  replied  that  we  had 
provisions  with  us,  and  needed  nothing.  He  said  it  was  his  duty 
and  privilege  to  serve  us ;  and  went  home  and  sent  us  chickens, 
butter,  yogoord  and  fruit.  He  and  his  brother  were  present  when 
our  meal  was  ready,  and  we  invited  them  to  partake  with  us.  They 
ate  in  eastern  style,  with  their  fingers,  and  we  with  knives  and  forks. 
This  village  is  principally  inhabited  by  Catholic  Nestorians ;  and 
here  my  ear  was  fiirst  delighted  with  the  sound  of  the  Syriac, — or 
rather,  a  modern  dialect  of  it, — as  a  vernacular  language. 

Oct.  18.  In  the  morning,  we  visited  several  of  the  gardens,  near 
the  village.  Khosrova.  is  the  residence  of  a  priest  and  a  monk,  edu- 
cated in  the  Propaganda  at  Rome.  The  Catholic  bishop,  whom 
Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight  saw  here,  is  dead.  The  priest  had  now 
gone  to  Tabreez  to  perform  mass  for  the  Russian  ambassador,  who 
is  a  Catholic,  there  being  no  Papal  ecclesiastic  in  that  city.  The 
monk  stood  by  the  road-side,  as  we  were  passing  to  the  gardens  ; 
but  knowing  us  to  be  Llitrans,  (Protestants,)  and  seeing  a  number 
of  the  villagers  accompanying  us  in  a  friendly  manner,  he  turned 
his  back  upon  us  and  retained  that  attitude  until  we  had  passed  by. 
We  little  regretted  the  Joss  of  his  acquaintance.  Just  at  evening, 
we  visited  the  old  Armenian  town  of  Salmas,  situated  two  miles 
west  of  Khosropa,  quite  under  the  mountain.  It  has  a  very  venera- 
ble appearance,  but  now  contains  only  about  three  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, the  majority  of  whom  are  Mdhammedans  and  the  rest  Jews 
and  Armenians.  There  are  two  lofty  brick  towers  near  the  town, 
that  bear  the  marks  of  considerable  antiquity,  on  which  are  in- 
scriptions in  the  Arabic  character. 

It  being  Saturday,  and  we  preferring  to  spend  the  approaching 
Sabbath  among  Nestorians  rather  than  among  Catholics,  we  started 
about  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening  for  Gavalan,  which  is  one  of  the 
first  Nestorian  villages  in  the  province  of  Oroomiah,  about  twenty- 
five  miles  distant  from  Khosrova.  A  ridge  of  the  Koordish  moun- 
tains was  to  be  crossed  to  reach  the  province  of  Oroomiah,  and  our 
muleteer  and  servants  expressed  great  apprehension  of  an  assault 
from  the  Koords.  We  prevailed  upon  them,  however,  to  proceed  by 
taking  with  us  an  armed  horseman  to  serve  a?  a  guard  and  a  guide. 

The  full  moon  rose  just  after  we  started,  and  our  ride  was  de- 
lightful. As  we  began  to  ascend  the  mountain,  a  very  amiable- 
looking  young  man,  on  horseback,  overtook  us,  announced  him- 
self a  Nestorian,  and  requested  permission  to  join  our  party.  By 
a  moment's  conversation,  I  identified  in  him  the  very  young  man, 
whom  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight  had  met  at  Tiflis,  on  their  way  to 
Persia,  became  much  interested  in  him,  and  commended  him  to  roy 
particular  attention,  should  I  ever  meet  with  him.  The  circum- 
stances which  interested  Messrs.  S.  and  D.  in  him  were  as  follows: 


NIGHT-RIDE  ADVENTCJRE. 


On  their  arrival  at  Tiflis,  they  employed  some  porters  to  carry  theif 
effects  to  their  lodgings.  Among  them,  one  young  man,  of  more 
apparent  activity  and  intelligence  than  are  common  among  porters 
arrested  their  notice.  They,  however,  said  nothing  to  him,  at  the 
time.  After  the  porters  retired,  this  young  man  came  back,  bring- 
ing with  him  a  copper  drinking-cup,  belonging  to  them,  which  he 
modestly  set  down  and  was  about  to  go  away  without  saying  a  word. 
The  explanation  was,  that  when  the  effects  were  distributed  amono- 
the  porters,  more  articles  fell  to  him  than  he  could  carry  in  his 
hands  ;  so  he  put  the  cup  in  his  pocket,  and  forgetting  it  when  he 
delivered  the  other  things,  carried  it  away;  but  as  soon  as  he  per- 
ceived it,  he  hastened  back  with  it  of  his  own  accord.  The  mis- 
sionaries were  deeply  interested  with  such  an  exhibition  of  integ- 
rity in  Asia,  called  him  back,  inquired  who  he  was,  and  found  him 
to  be  a  solitary  youthful  adventurer  from  that  oppressed  and  de- 
graded, but  venerable  people,  to  an  acquaintance  with  whom  they 
had  looked  forward  with  lively  interest,  from  the  commencement 
of  their  tour.  When  this  young  man  overtook  us,  on  the  mountain, 
he  inquired  of  my  servant  who  /  was  ;  and  on  being  told  that  I  was 
from  the  New  World,  he  replied  that  he  had  seen  two  men  from  the 
New  World  at  Tiflis,  and  proceeded  to  relate  the  anecdote  of  the 
cup.  That  the ^rst  Nestorian  with  whom  I  met  should  thus  prove 
to  be  the  amiable  young  man  with  whom  the?/  first  met — the  places 
of  our  meeting  being  hundreds  of  miles  distant  from  each  other,  and 
a  period  of  about  five  years  having  elapsed  between  the  two  inci- 
dents— was  to  me  a  very  interestmg  comcidence. 

Gavalan,  the  village  where  we  intended  to  stop,  is  the  residence 
of  Mar  Yohannan,  a  bishop  from  whom  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight 
derived  much  of  their  information  respecting  the  Nestorians,  and  of 
whom  they  purchased  a  manuscript  copy  of  a  part  of  the  Bible  in 
Syriac.  At  the  time  of  their  visit  here,  he  was  temporarily  residing 
at  Jamalava,  another  village  in  the  same  neighborhood.  We  found 
our  ride  across  the  mountain  much  longer  than  we  had  anticipated, 
and  became  intolerably  sleepy  on  the  way,  so  much  so  as  efTectually 
to  disqualify  us  for  meeting  the  Koords,  and  little  less  for  sitting 
upon  our  horses.  Two  of  our  party,  therefore,  concerted  a  device, 
at  once  to  drive  away  the  untimely  intruder  sleep,  and  afford  a  lit- 
tle amusement.  They  rode  forward,  unperceived  by  their  comrades, 
intending  to  retire  into  a  ravine  and  make  their  appearance  when 
the  rest  of  the  party  should  come  up,  and  give  them  a  momentary 
surprise.  But  the  stratagem  recoiled  upon  themselves.  As  they 
rode  up  a  ravine  for  the  purpose  I  have  mentioned,  they  found 
themselves  in  the  midst  of  a  party  of  Koords,  who  lay  there  asleep, 
having  chosen  that  ravine  as  their  night  quarters.  They  seemed 
not  to  be  observed  by  the  Koords.  The  affair,  however,  had 
well  nigh  proved  tragical.  For  as  our  adventurers  suddenly  re- 
treated and  fell  back  to  join  our  party,  our  armed  horseman  drew 
up  his  musket  and  had  he  not  instantly  recognized  them,  would 


MAR  YOHANNAN,  A  BISliOF'  OF  OF<OOMIAH 

Hoy*  Can  yon  make  booht  lor  lu  inyunr  cetiiUry .when 
you  de  -n-ot  hnow  our  lauyLcage^  p.n:i 


TKayti-it  Co'  Lith  £orlm 


MAR  YOHaNNAN  INTRODUCTION- — WELCOME.  173 

have  fired.  I  hardly  need  say  that  the  device,  especially  when  they 
reported  what  they  had  seen,  proved  an  effectual  antidote  for  the 
sleepiness  of  our  whole  party. 

It  was  about  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  Oct.  19th,  that  we 
reached  Gavalan.  The  villagers  were  all  in  a  profound  sleep.  We 
went  directly  to  the  house  of  the  bishop  and  sent  our  Armenian 
servant  to  the  door  to  announce  us.  The  bishop  recollected  Messrs. 
Smith  and  Dwight  with  lively  interest,  and  when  told  that  /  was 
their  friend,  he  seemed  to  recognize  in  me  an  old  acquaintance, 
rose  quickly,  came  out  and  very  cordially  welcomed  us  to  his  coun- 
try and  dwelling.*  His  recollections  of  Messrs.  S.  and  D.  were  go 
vividly  associated  with  a  Syriac  New  Testament  which  they  had 
left  with  him,  and  with  their  conversations  about  schools  and  Bibles 
for  his  people,  that,  before  he  had  received  an  intimation  of  my  ob- 
ject or  been  informed  that  I  had  a  book  with  me, —  indeed,  before 
the  first  salutation  of  welcome  had  fairly  dropped  from  his  lips, — 
with  an  animated  tone  he  artlessly  inquired,  "  how  can  you  make 
books  for  us,  in  your  country,  when  you  do  not  know  our  lan- 
guage ?" 

The  bishop  conducted  us  to  his  house,!  which  is  the  best  in  the 
village,  and  a  room  was  immediately  vacated  for  our  accommoda- 
tion. We  now  found  him,  (for  it  was  so  dark  in  the  yard,  where 
we  had  already  conversed  some  time,  that  we  had  not  been  able  be- 
fore to  mark  his  features,)  a  fine  looking  man,  naturally  quite  dig- 
nified and,  according  to  his  own  statement,  thirty  years  of  age.  He 
is  probably  somewhat  older ;  as  ages  are  seldom  recorded  in  Persia, 
they  can  only  be  approximated.  After  a  little  farther  conversation 
with  the  bishop,  we  intimated  that  we  were  quite  tired  and  that  sleep 
would  be  very  grateful  to  us.  He  therefore  soon  left  the  room,  and 
we  retired  to  rest. 

In  the  morning,  the  bishop  conducted  hi.s  father,  who  is  the  priest 
of  the  village  and  a  large  number  of  the  villagers,  into  our  room  and 
introduced  them  to  us.  They  all  appeared  poor,  oppressed  and  cast 
down,  but  very  friendly.  I  explained  to  them  in  a  measure  the  ob- 
ject of  my  coming  here,  as  being  to  aid  them,  if  they  wished  it,  in 
the  circulation  of  the  Scriptures,  the  establishment  of  schools,  etc. 
"Welcome — most  welcome,"  was  the  simultaneous  acclamation ; 
"this  is  just  what  we  have  been  hoping  and  praying  for;  the  Lord 
has  indeed  heard  and  answered  our  prayers."  I  showed  them  co- 
pies of  the  Syriac  books  which  I  had  with  me, — the  gospels,  pre- 
pared by  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society,  and  the  Nestorian 

*  1  could  not  help  recognizing,  at  the  time,  the  good  hand  of  the  Lord,  and 
have  often  since  done  the  same,  that  led  me  thus  at  tlie  outset,  to  an  ac- 
quaintance with  this  influential  bishop,  who  was  destined  in  providence  to 
hold  so  important  a  place  in  the  subsequent  history  of  our  mission.  He  is  the 
same  who  is  now  on  a  visit  to  the  United  States. 

t  This,  like  nearly  all  the  houses  of  the  Nestorians,  is  one  of  the  mud-wall- 
ed structures,  which  I  have  described  under  the  third  class,  as  being  unplas- 
tered  and  lighted  only  by  a  hole  in  the  roof. 


174 


CONVERSATIONS  INCREASE  OF  PAPISTS. 


Spelling  Book,  which  was  lithographed  for  me  at  the  press  of  the 
Churcli  Missionary  Society  at  Malta.  AH  kissed  the  books  and 
pronounced  them  excellent.  The  bishop  then  brought  to  me  the 
copy  of  the  Syriac  New  Testament,  which  Messrs.  S.  and  D.  had 
given  him,  and  pointed  me  to  their  signatures  on  the  blank  leaf. 
Jt  had  been  kept  enveloped  in  a  shawl  as  a  choice  treasure.  And 
his  father  proceeded  to  state,  that  they  had  not  only  read  it  carefully, 
comparing  it  with  their  Ms.  Testament,  to  ascertain  whether  it  were 
a  true  copy,  but  had  counted  the  letters  in  each  of  the  two  and  found 
them  perfectly  to  agree.  The  last  part  of  this  statement  might  pos- 
sible be  true  of  the  whole,  but  more  probably  of  a  few  verses,  or 
even  chapters.  It  savors  much  of  the  wanton  and  painful  exaggera- 
tions that  everywhere  meet  us  in  Persia. 

We  spent  most  of  the  day  in  conversation  with  the  bishop  and 
priest.  The  topics  discussed  were  of  their  own  choosing,  and 
much  the  same  with  those  on  which  they  had  conversed  with  Messrs. 
Smith  and  Dwight;  as  their  fasts,  crosses,  orders  of  priesthood,  etc. 
They  seemed  in  general  to  be  very  well  satisfied  with  my  account 
of  Christians  in  America,  though  they  could  hardly  perceive  bow 
we  obtain  clerical  ordination  without  bishops;  and  Mar  Yohannan 
humorously  remarked,  that  it  might  be  well  for  him  to  learn  Eng- 
lish of  me  and  then  go  to  America  and  preside  over  our  clergy. 
They,  however,  appeared  pleased,  when  I  gave  them  an  e.'?planation 
of  our  system  of  ordination. 

Mr.  Haas  inquired  whether  they  were  Catholics,  knowing  the 
contrary  to  be  true,  but  wishing  to  ascertain  in  what  estimation 
Papists  are  held  by  them.  They  earnestly  shook  their  heads  and 
repeated,  with  deep  indignation — "no — no — no;"  and  then  put 
the  question  to  us,  whether  we  were  Catholics,  which  they  began  to 
suspect,  from  Mr.  Haas'  inquiry.  We  echoed  their  own  negative 
declaration,  if  not  with  all  their  vehemence,  with  at  least  as  much 
satisfaction. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  I  also  inquired  respecting  the  late  in- 
crease of  Catholics  among  the  Nestorians  of  this  region,  which  had 
been  so  loudly  proclaimed  at  Tabreez,  by  Catholics  themselves. 
The  bishop  and  priest  denied  there  having  been  any  such  increase. 
On  the  contrary,  they  said,  the  Catholics,  throughout  the  Chaldean 
nation,  are  fast  losing  ground ;  and  added  that  Mar  Elias,  a  Pa- 
triarch resident  at  Elkoosh,*  who  was  formerly  a  Catholic,  had  late- 
ly revolted  from  Rome  and  returned  to  the  Nestorian  faith ;  and 
that  numbers  of  the  people,  who  had  also  been  Catholics  were  fol- 
lowing him.  They,  moreover,  stated  that  the  Nestorians  of  Oroo- 
miah  would  now  again  recognize  that  Patriarch  more  particularly 
as  their  spiritual  head,  having  been  attached  from  time  immemorial 
to  the  see  of  Elkoosh,  until  they  revolted  from  it  on  account  of  its 


*  For  an  account  of  the  Patriarchate  of  Elkoosh,  see  Researches  in  Arme- 
nia, Vol.  II.  p.  175. 


PATRIARCHAL  KESIDENCES  NAMES- 


175 


becoming  Papal  ;*  and  they  added  yet  farther,  that  Mar  Elias,  the 
said  Patriarcih,  was  now  on  a  visit  to  the  churches  of  Oroomiah. 

This  Elias  is  not  the  regular  Patriarch  of  Elkoosh,  but  a  nephew 
of  that  papal  prelate,  and  was  one  of  the  candidates  for  the  succes- 
sion. On  his  embracing  the  Nestorian  faith.  Mar  Shimon  ordained 
him  as  a  bishop ;  and  some  time  afterward,  a  council  of  Nestorian 
bishops  consecrated  him  as  a  Patriarch,  to  reside  at  Elkoosh,  in 
the  hope  that  he  might  be  instrumental  of  recovering  that  venerated 
see  back  to  the  Nestorian  church. 

I  was  much  gratified  to  find  that  the  recent  increase  of  the  Cath- 
olics, in  these  regions,  exists  only  in  their  own  fabrication,  as  sub- 
sequent inquiry  confirtned,  and  with  the  prospect  of  being  permit- 
ted to  make  the  acquaintance  of  a  spiritual  head  of  the  people,  for 
whose  benefit  I  had  come  to  labor  thus  early  in  my  mission.  Mar 
Shimon,  whom  the  Nestorians  have  acknowledged  as  their  head 
since  the  papal  predominancy  over  the  see  of  Elkoosh,  has  his  resi- 
dence in  a  point  so  remote  in  the  Koordish  mountains  as  to  pre- 
clude the  hope  of  my  being  able  to  make  my  way  to  him,  without 
more  or  less  peril,  in  the  present  lawless  state  of  ihe  Koords.  And 
it  is  hardly  less  hazardous  to  attempt  a  journey  across  the  mountains, 
on  the  direct  routes,  to  Elkoosh.  The  Lord,  it  seemed,  had  brought 
me  to  Oroomiah  just  in  time  to  meet  Mar  Elias  there,  and  secure 
his  confidence,  before  he  should  become  prejudiced  against  me  and 
my  object,  by  papal  misrepresentation. 

In  conversation,  Mar  Yohannan  objected  to  my  calling  him  and 
his  people,  Nestorimn.  I  asked  him  what  I  should  call  them,  and 
he  answered,  Chaldeans.  I  inquired,  whether  the  Catholic  Nesto- 
rians are  not  called  Chaldeans.  He  acknowledged  that  they  are,  but 
added,  "shall  a  few  Catholic  converts  from  our  people  arrogate  to 
then)selves  the  name  of  the  whole  nation  1  and  must  we  surrender 
up  our  name  to  them  ?  Ncstorius  we  do  indeed  respect,  as  one  of 
our  bishops;  but  our  nation  are  under  no  particular  obligation  to 
be  called  by  his  name,  and  no  reason  exists  why  we  should  cease  to 
be  called  Chaldeans."  This  objection  to  being  called  Nestorians 
probably  arises  from  an  apprehension  that  indignity  may  attach  it- 
self to  the  name,  in  our  estimation,  the  Nestcirians  having  always  been 
stigmatized,  by  the  Papists  and  other  oriental  sects,  as  very  flagrant 
heretics.  The  people  usually  call  themselves,  Si/ridnce,  and  less  of- 
ten, Nuzrdaec,  for  the  purpose  of  designating  both  iheir  religion 
and  their  nation.  Frequently,  daring  the  day,  the  bishop  expressed 
a  strong  desire  to  learn  the  English  ;  and  it  occurred  to  me  that  he 
might  be  the  man  whom  Providence  designed  as  my  Syriac  teacher, 
though  I  had  no  real  expectation  that  he  would  be  willing  to  leave 
his  people.  Being  pleased,  however,  with  his  amiable  deportment 
and  apparent  desire  to  learn,  I  at  length  made  the  inquiry,  whether 
he  would  return  with  metoTabreez  and  become  my  teacher,  where 


*  See  Rcsearchoa  in  Armenia,  Vol.  TI.  p.  23!'. 


176 


LOT  WORSHIP  OUTFIT  OF  THE  BISHOP. 


he  might  also  learn  English ;  and  he  promptly  answered  in  the 
affirmative.  He  proposed  too  that  his  younger  brother,  a  boy  of 
fourteen,  should  go  with  liim  and  act  as  his  servant,  who  would  also 
like  to  learn  English.  "  As  for  remuneration  for  teaching  you  Sy- 
riac,"  he  added,  "I  am  not  a  s exulm- mnn  ;  if  I  have  food  and 
clothes,  I  am  satisfied."  I  inquired  whether  he  would  like  to  live 
in  my  house  and  board  at  my  table;  and  he  replied  that  he  should 
be  much  pleased  witli  that  arrangement,  though  he  would  of  course 
consult  my  own  convenience. 

I  let  the  matter  rest  there  until  evening,  and  then  inquired  whe- 
ther he  would  be  ready  to  proceed  with  us,  the  next  morning,  as 
we  were  not  expecting  to  return  by  his  village,  but  should  proceed 
around  the  east  side  of  the  lake,  on  our  way  home.  He  hesitated  a  lit- 
tle and  then  proposed  to  decide  the  whole  question  by  lot.  The  book 
of  Daniel,  an  old  Ms.  copy,  was  brought  forward  ;  the  finger  of  my  ser- 
vant was  placed  at  random  on  a  figured  card;  the  page  of  the  book 
thus  indicated  was  consulted  and  the  result  soon  announced,  which 
was,  that  he  "  must  not  be  hasty,  but  deliberate.'''  It  was  easy  to  per- 
ceive, that  the  result  was  accommodated  entirely  to  the  will  of  the 
experimenter.  Nor  was  it  doubtful  that  a  pecuniary  offer,  for  his 
services  in  teaching,  would,  to  the  bishop's  own  mind,  be  a  much 
mere  satisfactory  test  of  the  expediency  of  going  with  me,  than  any 
inystical  decision,  from  the  ancient  and  sacred  page,  his  disavowal 
of  the  love  of  money  notwithstanding;  nor  did  I  deem  it  expedient 
to  employ  him  without  a  stipulated  remuneration.  So  I  left  our  Ar- 
menian servant  in  the  room,  having  instructed  him  how  much  to 
offer,  which  was  no  sooner  proposed  than  accepted,  and  the  bishop 
declared  himself  ready  to  go  with  us  the  next  morning.  The  lesson 
of  deliberation,  imparted  by  the  lot,  was  forgotten  as  readily  as  it 
had  been  discovered,  and  had  a  new  trial  been  made,  there  would 
doubtless  have  been  found  a  positively  affirmative  indication. 

In  the  absence  of  a  church,  in  the  village  of  Gavalan,  religious 
worship  is  performed  in  the  house  of  the  bishop,— or  rather  of  his 
father,  with  whom  he  lives  as  a  member  of  the  family.  We  were 
present  at  evening  prayers.  The  forms  were  simple.  Crossings 
were  frequent,  but  we  saw  no  images  nor  pictures.  The  whole  ser- 
vice, however,  performed  in  a  dead,  obsolete  tongue,  seemed  heart- 
less and  painfully  void  of  even  the  appearance  of  devotion. 

Oct.  20.  We  rose  early  and  found  the  bishop  still  resolved  to  go 
with  us;  though  we  could  hardly  believe  it,  the  step  was  so  adven- 
turous for  him  ;  besides,  he  seemed  to  be  making  no  preparation. 
I  directed  our  servant  to  suggest  to  him  the  desirableness  of  having 
all  his  effects  put  in  readiness,  which  he  would  of  course  wish  to  take 
with  him,  for  a  year's  residence  at  Tabreez.  "I  want  nothing  but 
my  blanket  and  three  books,"  he  replied,  "  and  they  are  soon  ready." 
And  so  it  proved  ;  for  thus  equipped,  he  was  mounted  and  ready  to 
start  before  the  rest  of  us.  His  father,  the  priest,  objected  to  his 
younger  son  going  with  me  at  present.  "Let  the  older  one  try  first," 


LODGINGS  CHURCH  CITY. 


177 


he  said,  "and  if  he  is  prospered,  the  younger  may  go  afterwards." 
The  mother  wept  much  and  was  unwilling  that  either  son  should  go. 

When  the  Russians  invaded  Persia,  some  years  before,  they  sent 
a  deputation  from  Tabreez  to  Oroomiah,  to  induce  the  Nestorians 
to  emigrate  to  Georgia.  After  considering  the  subject,  the  people 
of  the  province  delegated  some  of  their  clergy- — Mar  Yohannan 
among  the  rest — to  Tabreez,  to  communicate  to  general  Pascavitch 
a  negative  decision.  The  general  was  not  satisfied  without  farther 
trial ;  so  he  retained  them  some  time,  thinking  that  the  people  would 
follow  their  spiritual  leaders.  It  was  natural,  therefore,  that  the 
parents  should  feel  solicitude  respecting  the  bishop,  in  prospect  of 
his  ^oing  again  to  Tabreez.  Their  simple  overflowings  of  grief 
reminded  me  of  Jacob  of  old  when  bereft  of  his  children. 

We  started  at  8  o'clock,  the  bishop  proposing  to  find  a  servant  on 
the  road,  who  must  be  an  ecclesiastic  and  able  to  read,  because  two 
are  necessary  in  reciting  their  devotions,  there  being  frequent  res- 
ponses,— and  he  wished  occasionally  to  celebrate  the  Lord's  supper 
at  Tabreez.  When  we  left  the  village,  I  gave  away  a  considerable 
number  of  books  to  the  priest  and  two  of  his  sons  and  one  or  two 
others  in  the  village  who  could  read. 

We  rode  about  twelve  miles,  our  course  being  south,  over  a  gra- 
velly section  which  was  but  partially  cultivated.  There  the  moun- 
tain shuts  down  quite  near  the  lake ;  and  a  few  miles  beyond,  the 
plain  begins  to  expand  towards  the  east  on  the  one  hand,  swelling 
into  the  lake,  and  to  the  south-west  on  the  other,  stretching  away 
under  the  mountains  to  a  great  distance.  This  plain  is  almost  per- 
fectly level,  extremely  fertile,  highly  cultivated,  amply  irrigated  by 
canals  from  several  small  rivers,  and  enlivened  by  almost  countless 
gardens,  vineyards,  orchards  and  villages. 

The  city  of  Oroomiah  is  quite  near  the  south-western  extremity 
of  the  plain.  It  was  nearly  dark  when  we  reached  it.  The  bishop 
conducted  us  directly  to  the  Nestorian  corner,  and  gave  us  as  a  room 
for  lodging,  one  of  the  porches  of  the  church,  taking  an  adjoining 
one  for  himself.  The  church  is  a  large  edifice,  built  of  stone  and 
brick,  on,  or  rather  in,  an  elevated  spot,  all  but  the  roof  being  im- 
bedded in  the  ground.  The  building  is  divided  into  several  apart- 
ments, all  of  which  we  entered  by  extremely  small  doors.  The 
church  itself  is  considerably  larger  than  the  other  rooms,  and  back 
of  it  are  the  baptistry  and  the  sanctum  sanctorum — or  apartment 
for  consecrating  the  elements  of  the  communion.  We  found  in  the 
church  no  images  or  pictures;  but  its  entire  walls  were  most  un- 
tastefuUy — not  to  say  ridiculously — hung  with  old  shawls  and  pieces 
of  calico  of  every  conceivable  description  and  color,  for  the  purpose 
of  ornament.  The  church  is  surrounded  by  an  ancient  cemetery, 
some  of  whose  stones — huge  oblong  blocks  of  gypsum — are  very 
large  and  all  are  inscribed  with  Syriac  characters.  In  the  centre 
is  a  beautitul  fountain,  surrounded  by  wide  spreading  shade  trees. 

The  city  of  Oroomiah — the  ancient  Thebarma, — as  already  sug- 

23 


178  ANTIQUITIES  POPULATION  LANGUAGES. 


gested,  is  renowned  as  being  the  birth-place  of  Zoroaster,  ZcrdusTii^ 
as  the  Persians  call  him.  It  is  situated  on  a  slight  elevation  of 
ground,  about  ten  or  twelve  miles  west  of  the  lake  and  within  two 
miles  of  the  mountains.  It  is  in  nearly  37°  20"  north  latitude  and 
45°  15"  east  longitude.  Its  proximity  to  the  lake  and  eastern  expo- 
sure from  the  mountains,  give  it  a  milder  climate  than  that  of  Tabreez; 
but  being  so  near  the  lofty  Koordish  ranges,  it  has  considerably 
more  snow  in  winter  than  that  city.  The  most  interesting  remnant 
of  antiquity,  in  Oroorniah,  is  an  immense  mosk — the  only  one  in 
the  city  that  is  surmounted  with  a  dome  and  cupola — which  was 
once  a  christian  church.  It  is  an  arched  structure,  finely  built  of 
brick  and  lime.  The  upper  portions  have  been  rebuilt,  but  the 
lower  walls  of  the  main  part  appear  to  have  belonged  to  the  original 
building  and  bear  marks  of  considerable  antiquity.  Without  the 
city,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  wall,  on  the  southern  side, 
is  an  ancient  cylindrical  tower,  perhaps  fifty  feet  high,  the  origin  of 
which  is  unknown.  On  its  upper  part  are  figures,  which,  however, 
are  not  sufficiently  distinct  to  enable  one  to  determine  whether  they 
are  a  written  character,  or  merely  ornamental  appendages.  The  tu- 
muli of  the  fire-worshippers,  on  the  plain,  will  be  noticed  elsewhere. 

On  every  side  of  the  city  are  gardens  of  vast  extent,  surrounded 
and  interspersed  with  shade-trees  of  such  size  and  in  such  numbers 
as  to  give  to  the  whole  region  much  the  appearance  of  a  great 
American  forest.  The  city  is  surrounded  by  a  high  mud  wall  and  a 
ditch,  like  those  of  Tabreez,  but  not  kept  in  as  good  repair.  The 
number  of  inhabitants  is  about  twenty-five  thousand.  Vast  multi- 
tudes,— some  say,  one  half  of  the  population, — were  swept  off  by  the 
plague  and  cholera  that  raged  here  in  1829.  Of  the  inhabitants, 
about  two  thousand  are  Jews  ;*  six  hundred  only  are  Nestorians — 
the  mass  of  the  Nestorians  residing  in  the  villages — and  the  rest  are 
Muhammedans.  There  were  a  few  Armenians,  in  the  city  and  the 
province;  but  nearly  alj  of  them  followed  the  Russians  to  Georgia. 
The  city  within  has  a  very  venerable  and  rather  inviting  appear- 
ance.   It  has  much  broader  streets,  more  shade-trees  and  gardens, 


*  The  language  of  these  Jews,  is  a  corruption  of  Hebrew  or  Chaldec,  and 
is  so  analogous  to  that  of  the  Nestorians,  which  is  a  modern  Syrian,  that  tho 
two  people  can,  to  some  extent,  understand  each  other.  Says  Dr.  Robinson, 
"  The  Jews  also  cultivated  the  Aramaean,  in  the  form  of  the  Chaldec  tongue, 
of  which  we  have  a  few  specimens  in  the  Bible,  and  more  in  the  later  Tar- 
gums  or  Chaldee  versions  ;  and  this  continued  to  be  their  peculiar  language, 
under  the  name  and  form  of  the  Talmudic  and  Rabbinic,  in  all  their  great 
schools  of  learning  in  Tiberias,  Babylon,  Persia  and  Safed, — i.e.  more  or  less, 
throughout  the  East,  down  to  as  late  a  period  as  the  sixteeutb  century.  We 
tlius  find  the  two  greatbranches  of  the  Aramaean  stock,  Jewish  and  Christian, 
Chaldee  and  Syriac,  both  originally  kindred  with  the  Hebrew,  continuing  to 
flourish  side  by  side,  throughout  the  East,  for  many  centuries,  until  a  date 
comparatively  remote.  At  the  present  day,  in  like  manner,  the  Jews  resi- 
dent among  the  Nestorians  and  in  other  parts  of  Persia,  speak  a  dialect  hav- 
ing much  resemblance  to  that  of  the  Nestorians." — Jsew  York  Observer.^ 
Vol.  XX.  No.  4-5,  Nov.  B,  1842. 


MA.R  GABBIEL  OPPRESSION. 


179 


and  a  greater  air  of  general  comfort,  than  most  other  cities  that  I 
have  seen  in  Asia.  In  the  extensive  bazars,  I  observed  some  of  the 
finest  fruit  I  ever  beheld.  European  goods,  as  broadcloths,  cottons, 
chintz,  etc.,  are  also  finding  their  way  to  this  distant  city. 

On  our  arrival,  we  were  informed,  that  the  Patriarch  Elias  was  in 
a  village  five  miles  distant,  but  was  expecting  to  depart  the  next 
day.  I  therefore  immediately  despatched  our  servant  to  apprize 
him  of  my  arrival  in  the  city  and  of  my  wish  to  see  him. 

Oct.  21.  The  servant  returned,  about  9  o'clock,  A.  M.,  saying 
that  the  Patriarch  would  defer  his  departure  one  day  for  the  sake  of 
seeing  me.  About  the  same  time.  Mar  Gabriel,  the  bishop  resident 
at  Ardishai,  called  to  see  me.  He  is  a  young  man — about  twenty- 
five  years  of  age — of  a  careless  air,  but  of  a  pleasant,  intelligent 
and  energetic  countenance.  I  stated  to  him  the  object  of  my  com- 
ing here,  and  he  responded  a  hearty  welcome  and  pledged  his  own 
efficient  cooperation  in  the  furtherance  of  that  object.  "  The  two 
priests  in  the  city,  (in  whose  church  we  then  were,)  do  not  receive 
me,"  said  he,  "with  much  cordiality,  as  you  notice.  Being  metro- 
politan of  this  province,  I  recently  put  them  under  penalty  of  ex- 
communication for  marrying  a  man  to  two  wives,  which  you  know," 
(he  added,  appealing  to  me,)  "  is  forbidden  in  the  gospel."  Polyg- 
amy is  not  allowed  among  the  Nestorians  ;  nor  is  the  seventh  com- 
mandment much  violated  among  them,  which  is  the  more  interest- 
ing and  perhaps  remarkable,  situated  as  they  are  in  the  midst  of  cor- 
rupt Miihammedans,  among  whom  little  less  than  the  abominations 
of  Sodom  prevail.  I  gave  Mar  Gabriel  some  of  my  Syriac  gospels 
and  spelling-books,  with  which  he  seemed  nmch  pleased,  and  he 
departed,  uttering,  as  he  left  me,  a  tale  of  complaints  against  the 
Muhammedans. 

The  Nestorians  are  all  very  ready  to  ascribe  their  degradation  to 
Muhammedan  oppression  ;  and  it  is  true  that  they  are  severely  op- 
pressed. Besides  being  often  wantonly  stripped  of  their  honest 
earnings,  seizure  of  their  children  and  coercive  conversion  of  them 
to  the  Mussulman  faith  sometimes  occur.  Two  instances  of  this 
kind  had  just  happened  in  neighboring  villages.  In  one,  a  young 
girl,  of  noted  attractions,  was  seized  by  twenty  armed  men,  carried 
into  the  city  and  delivered  to  a  Mussulman,  who,  hearing  of  her 
beauty,  wivshed  to  marry  her,  but  could  not,  while  she  remained  a 
Christian.  Torn  thus  from  relatives  and  home,  she  was  frightened 
into  a  profession  of  the  faith  of  the  Prophet  and  compelled  to  be- 
come the  wife  of  a  Muhammedan.  The  bishops  of  the  province 
were  endeavoring  to  rescue  the  girl,  but  had  little  prospect  of  suc- 
cess. Here,  most  emphatically,  "justice  is  turned  away  backward 
and  judgment  standeth  afar  off." — In  the  other  instance,  a  boy  of 
sixteen  had  been  seized  and  compelled  to  profess  himself  a  Mu- 
hammedan. As  soon  as  an  opportunity  occurred,  he  absconded  and 
fled  into  Russia.  On  the  road  to  Oroomiah,  we  overtook  him,  slyly 
making  his  way  home.    Under  oar  protection,  he  reached  his  native 


180       THE  PATRIARCH  MEDIUM  OF  COM MtTNI CATION. 


village,  but  was  in  constant  apprehension  of  being  again  seizecf, 
Mr.  Haas,  compassionating  his  condition,  brought  him  to  Tabreez 
as  a  servant.  In  addition  to  these  seizures,  there  is  a  strono-  in- 
ducement held  out  to  the  nominal  Christians  in  Persia  to  profess 
the  Muhammedan  faith  from  mercenary  motives.  The  fact  of  be- 
coming a  Mussulman  entitles  a  Christian  to  the  property  of  his 
family  relatives,  on  the  death  of  the  father.  But  notwithstanding  the 
force  of  this  diabolical  motive,  when  addressed  to  an  unsanctified 
heart,  the  horror  of  abandoning  the  christian  faith  is  here  so  great, 
that  instances  of  voluntary  conversion  are  very  rare. 

About  noon,  we  set  off  for  G^og-tapa,  (cerulean  hill,)  to  visit  the 
Patriarch  Elias.  Mar  Yohannan  accompanied  us,  as  guide  and 
friend.  It  was  interesting  to  observe  the  Nestorians,  as  we  passed 
them  on  the  road,  approach  their  bishop  and  kiss  his  hand.  From 
habit,  I  often  unconsciously  repeated  the  term,  Nestorian,  in  our 
conversation ;  and  the  bishop  humorously  remarked,  "  we  shaJl  very 
soon  be  at  war,  if  you  do  not  cease  calling  us  Nestorians." 

When  we  reached  the  house  of  the  chief  man  of  the  village, 
where  the  Patriarch  was  stopping,  we  were  detained  at  the  door, 
some  time,  until  a  room  should  be  put  in  suitable  order  to  receive 
us.  We  vvere  at  length  conducted  into  a  large  apartment,  at  the 
upper  part  of  which  the  Patriarch  was  seated,  on  cushions.  Mu.t 
Yohannan  approached  him  and  kissed  his  hand  and  then  introduced 
us.  He  welcomed  us  with  much  cordiality.  He  is  a  young  man — ■ 
perhaps  thirty-five  years  old — has  piercing  black  eyes,  but  a  very 
amiable  countenance.  I  was  quite  charmed  with  his  whole  appear- 
ance. It  was  that  of  lofty,  yet  mild  and  simple  dignity.  His  dress 
resembled  that  of  the  bishops,  except  that  the  shawl  of  his  turban  is 
black,  while  theirs  are  of  several  colors.  A  stool,  about  four  feet 
high,  for  want  of  a  chair,  was  spread  over  with  a  quilt,  on  which  I 
was  invited  to  sit. 

I  was  obliged  to  converse  with  the  Patriarch  through  three  inter- 
preters.* Not  knowing  Turkish,  the  bishop  addressed  him  in  Sy- 
riac.  Our  Armenian  servant  spoke  to  the  bishop  in  Turkish. 
And  Mr.  Haas  communicated  with  the  servant  in  Arnienian  and 
with  me  in  English.  But  notwithstanding  the  many  links  in  our 
chain  of  communication,  we  conversed  fluently  for  three  hours,  and 
it  was  one  of  the  most  interesting  interviews  I  ever  enjoyed  with  any 
personage.  I  had  felt  great  solicitude  respecting  the  impressions  X 
might  leave  on  the  mind  of  one  of  the  spiritual  heads  of  the  Nesto- 
rians; and  was  happy,  as  we  proceeded,  to  find  him  seconding  all 
that  I  said.  Providentially  we  came  upon  no  topic,  except  those  sa 
general  in  their  character,  as  the  superior  authority  of  the  Scrip- 
tures over  human  tradition — the  desirableness  of  schools  among  his 
people,  etc.,  that  our  ground  was  all  the  way  common . 


•*  In  the  region  of  Elkoosh,  Arabic  and  Syriac — principally  the  former — 
are  the  languages  spoken  by  the  christians- 


OBJECT  STATED  RECEPTION.  181 

Soon  after  our  introduction,  the  Patriarch  remarked  that  his  peo* 
pie  were  very  poor  and  degraded.  I  seized  the  opportunity  thus  of- 
fered, to  make  known  to  him  my  object  in  coming  here.  I  told 
him  that  it  was  a  source  of  grief  to  Christians  in  America,  that  his 
people  were  so.  He  expressed  his  gratitude  for  their  sympathy.  I 
added,  that,  hearing  such  to  be  the  condition  of  the  Nestoriaus  as 
he  had  stated,  and  that  they  still  made  the  Bible  their  rule  of  faith, 
exalting  it  above  the  traditions  of  men,  Christians  in  America  sent 
two  messengers,  a  few  years  ago,  to  ascertain  whether  these  things 
were  so, — that  these  messengers  confirmed  what  had  before  been 
heard  respecting  the  Nestorians ;  that  the  good  people  in  America 
then  felt  interested  more  than  ever  for  the  welfare  of  his  nation; 
that  it  was  their  earnest  prayer  that  the  Nestorians  might  continue 
to  reverence  the  Holy  Scriptures  and  never  yield  to  the  temptations 
to  abandon  Christianity.  Moreover,  that  Christians  in  our  country 
had  not  felt  satisfied  with  merely  praying  for  the  Nestorians  ;  that 
they  remembered  the  words  of  the  aposde,  "  If  a  brother  or  sister 
be  naked,  and  destitute  of  daily  food  and  one  of  you  say  unto  them 
depart  in  peace,  be  ye  warmed  and  filled,"  etc.  ;  and  that  they  had 
accordingly  sent  me  to  see  if  I  could  aid  his  people,  by  circulating 
the  Scriptures,  establishing  schools  among  them,  etc. 

As  the  successive  steps  of  this  explanation  were  communicated  to 
the  Patriarch,  I  observed  the  kindling  emotion,  gleaming  from  his 
countenance,  and  I  had  scarcely  quoted  the  above  Scripture  and  ftil- 
ly  announced  my  object,  when  he  raised  his  eyes  toward  heaven  and 
exclaimed,  "  thanks  to  God, — this  is  just  what  I  have  been  praying 
for  and  we  so  greatly  need."  He  desired  me  to  present  his  heart- 
felt gratitude  to  American  Christians  for  sending  me  here  for  such 
an  object,  and  expressed  the  same  to  me  for  coming, — promising, 
at  the  same  time,  to  help  me  in  every  way  in  his  power,  in  my  la- 
bors among  his  people. 

I  told  the  Patriarch  that  I  had  brought  with  me  two  books  which 
I  should  like  to  submit  to  him.  They  were  the  Gospels  and  the 
spelling-book.  He  had  two  copies  of  the  Gospels  already  lying  by 
him  and  seemed  much  rejoiced  to  find  that  mine  were  of  the  same 
kind.  The  spelling-book,  too,  he  said,  was  very  well  prepared. 
Little  was  faulty  in  it  except  the  location  of  some  of  the  points,  and 
some  of  the  letters  were  not  sufficiently  square.  But  those,  he  con- 
tinued, were  trifles.  He  expressed  a  strong  desire  that  American 
Christians  would  send  us  ^  press.  He  would  appoint  one  of  their 
best  scholars,  he  said,  to  aid  me  in  the  preparation  of  books. 

During  our  conversation,  the  great  room  was  nearly  filled  with 
listening  Nestorians,  who  seemed  to  be  enraptured  at  the  idea  of 
having  the  Scriptures  and  school-books  printed  in  their  language. 
Printed  books  were  a  wonder  that  few  of  them  had  ever  heard  of, 
and  less  had  ever  seen.  The  chief  man  of  the  village  took  up  the 
spelling-book,  which  I  had  brought  as  a  specimen  to  show  the  Pa- 
triarch, and  began  to  teach  his  little  boy  who  stood  by  him  the  al- 


182 


MORNING  WORSHIP — 'MAR  ELlAS. 


phabet ;  (of  which  he  himself  knew  nothing  except  the  names  of 
two  or  three  letters  ;)  and  Bibles,  books  and  schools  at  once  became 
the  encrrossing  theme.  A  dinner  was  spread  before  us,  consisting 
of  yogoord,  bread,  cheese,  batter,  walnuts  and  raisins,  all  dainties 
of  the  land,  which  we  ate  in  Asiatic  style  with  our  fingers.  While 
at  dinner,  the  Patriarch  remarked,  that  several  hundred  families,  in 
the  region  of  Elkoosh,  who  were  formerly  Catholics,  have  within 
three  years  come  back  to  the  Nestorian  faith.  I  did  not  revile  the 
Catholics,  but  embraced  the  opportunity  to  assure  him  that  neither 
I  nor  ray  patrons  have  any  sympathy  with  Rome. 

Soon  after  dinner,  we  took  our  leave,  and  with  the  satisfaction  of 
being  permitted  to  believe  that  the  Patriarch  heartily  welcomed  me 
to  my  missionary  work.  My  heart  swelled  with  gratitude  to  God, 
that  He  had  brought  me  to  Oroomiah  so  opportunely.  Mar  Yo- 
hannan  remained  in  the  village  to  pass  the  night  with  the  Patriarch. 
We  returned  and  our  ride  back  to  the  city,  just  before  sunset,  was 
delightful. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

VISIT  AT  OROOMIAH  AND  RETURN  TO  TABREEZ. 

I  HAVE  already  stated,  that  on  our  arrival  at  Oroomiah,  we  took 
lodgings  in  the  Nestorian  church.  We  were  early  awaked,  Oct.  22d, 
by  the  priests,  and  some  of  the  villagers  coming  to  their  morning 
devotions.  Their  service  consisted  of  chanting  portions  of  the 
Psalms  and  reciting  their  liturgy,  bowing,  kneeling  and  crossing 
themselves.  They  continued  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour. 
When  I  went  out  of  my  room,  I  found  Mar  Elias,  the  bishop,  (not 
the  Patriarch  of  that  name,)  from  G6og-tapa,  with  the  priests.  He 
appeared  to  be  a  captious  old  man — perhaps  fifty  years  of  age — 
who  prides  himself  exceedingly  on  his  reputed  learning.  He  gave 
me  a  formal  welcome  to  his  people,,  but  I  was  less  pleased  with  his 
appearance  than  with  that  of  the  other  bishops.  Our  Armenian  ser- 
vant saw  him  the  evening  he  went  to  apprize  the  Patriarch  of  my 
arrival  in  the  city.  He  questioned  the  servant  on  some  matters  of 
doctrine,  as  whether  Christ  has  a  successor  on  earth  ;  who  was  the 
oldest  disciple,  etc.  ;  probably  to  ascertain  whether  /were  a  Catho- 
lic. The  servant  felt  quite  embarrassed,  and  on  his  return,  told 
Mar  Yohannan  what  reception  Mar  Elias  had  given  him  ;  and  Mar 
Yohannan  replied,  "  We  know  him  very  well ;  he  is  a  little  warped 
in  the  brain."  Our  interview  this  morning  rather  confirmed 
Mar  Yohannan's  remark.    Mar  Elias's  influence  is,  however,  con- 


LEARNING  VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR. 


183 


siderable  among  the  people,  as  they  consider  him  the  most  karncd 
bishop  in  the  province.  I  therefore  regarded  it  important  to  secure 
his  confidence.  A  copy  of  my  spelling-book  being  brought,  he 
opened  to  the  alphabet  and  after  entertaining  his  own  people  present 
for  some  time,  he  turned  to  Mr.  JIaas  and  myself  and  said  it  would 
be  extremely  entertaining  and  instructive  to  us,  if  he  only  had  the 
time,  to  sit  down  with  us,  and  instruct  us  into  the  profound  mean- 
ingof  each  letter  of  the  Syriac  alphabet.  "Alef,  (a.)  for  instance," 
he  said,  "stands  for  Allaha,  (God,)  Arra,  (earth,)  Abha,  (father) ; 
and  Baeth  (b.)  stands  for  Broona,  (son,)  Breeta,  (world,)  Bahra, 
(light,)  and  so  on.  His  people  were  astonished  at  such  marvellous 
displays  of  learning.  When  Mar  Elias  rose  to  depart,  I  invited  him 
and  the  priests  who  were  present,  to  take  coffee  with  nie,  which  my 
servant  had  prepared.  They  all  appeared  to  be  gratified  with  the 
invitation,  sat  down  with  us,  and  ate  bread  and  melons  and  drank 
coffee.  The  simplicity  of  our  meal  suggested  the  Scripture  that 
Christ  had  not  where  to  lay  his  head,  which  led  to  some  interesting 
conversation.  The  bishop,  of  his  own  accord,  repeated  a  short 
prayer,  both  at  the  commencement  and  close  of  our  meal.  All  soon 
retired,  apparently  pleased  with  our  visit.  Mar  Elias,  however, 
was  rather  captious*  toward  me,  notwithstanding  Mar  Yohannan's 
constant  effort  to  conciliate  him,  until  the  day  before  I  left  the  city, 
when  I  discovered  and  removed  the  remaining  cause.  Finding  that  1 
had  engaged  Mar  Yohannan  as  my  Syriac  teacher,  without  having 
first  applied  to  him,  he  appeared  to  be  apprehensive  that  my  estima- 
tion of  himself  as  a  learned  man  was  not  sufficiently  exalted.  As 
soon  as  I  perceived  the  source  of  his  trouble,  I  told  him  that  Mar 
Yohannan  and  numbers  of  the  people  had  from  the  first  spoken  of 
him  to  me  as  the  most  learned  Nestorian  in  the  province;  but  ii 
was  understood  that  it  would  be  in  vain  for  me  to  apply  to  him  to  go 
to  Tabreez,  as  he  could  not  transfer  the  important  duties  which  his 
superior  age  and  experience  imposed  on  him  among  his  people. 
With  this  explanation,  he  seemed  to  be  perfectly  satisfied,  and  from 
that  moment  his  whole  appearance  was  changed,  and  he  was  evi- 
dently very  studious  to  secure  my  confidence  and  good  opinion. 

This  morning,  I  sent  the  letters  which  I  had  with  me  from  Sir 
John  Campbell,  and  the  prince  and  vizier  at  Tabreez,  to  the  gover- 
nor. His  Excellency  returned  an  invitation  that  I  should  visit  him, 
and  we  immediately  called  on  him.  We  found  the  governor  occupy- 
ing a  splendid  mansion,  and  surrounded  by  numerous  attendants. 
He  is  a  sprightly  looking  man,  about  forty-five  or  fifty  years  of  age. 
The  accompanying  drawing  will  give  the  reader  a  very  good  idea  of 
his  appearance  in  his  official  attitude  and  dress.  He  received  us  with 

**  We  have  since  found  Mar  Elias  an  excellent  old  man,  as  I  shall  liive  oc- 
casion to  notice  ;  and  I  now  suspect  that  the  chief  source  of  his  captiousness 
toward  me  at  that  time,  may  have  been  his  apprehension  that  I  was  a  Cath- 
olic. 


184 


PKRSIAN  COMPLIMENTS  MOOLLAHS. 


much  civility  and  apparent  kindness.  As  we  entered  the  great  hall, 
he  beckoned  us  to  the  upper  end,  to  sit  by  his  side,  and  ran  through 
so  long  a  string  of  inquiries  after  our  health,  in  the  common  Persian 
manner, — Katf-iiz  yokhskee  dur  ?  (is  your  health  good  ?) ;  Ddindg- 
hun  chdkk  dur?  (your  palate — appetite — lusty?);  Kacf-uz  koek 
dur?  (Are  you  in  hale — fat — keeping?)  etc., — and  withal  so  rapid- 
ly, that  we  found  no  room  for  some  time  to  interpose  a  reply,  and 
could  merely  nod  our  assent  till  he  had  finished.  We  then  inquired 
after  his  health,  to  which,  with  a  solemn  stroke  of  the  beard,  he 
answered,  Alhemdooleeldh*  (Thanks  unto  God,)  Sizin  devletavuz- 
dan,  (By  your  a.usp'ices)  Sizin  Ahvaliizydkhshee  olsun,  v^menimke 
ydkkshee  dur,  (Only  let  your  condition  be  prosperous,  and  I  am  of 
course  very  well).  He  then  reiterated  his  expressions  of  welcome  : 
Hdsh  gelditz,  (your  coming  is  delectable) ;  Sefd  gelduz,  (your  ar- 
rival is  gladsome) ;  Guzim  ustd  gelduz,  (upon  my  eyes  you  have 
come,)  etc.  To  divert  the  luscious  tide,  it  was  remarked  that  I 
came  from  the  New  World ;  but  to  this  he  replied,  'everything 
must  be  superlative  that  comes  from  the  New  World,'  and  proceed- 
ed to  lavish  upon  me  and  my  country  a  copious  shower  of  fine  say- 
ings of  a  like  description. 

Salutations  and  compliments  being  at  last  ended,  the  governor 
remarked  that  Mr.  Frasert  had  been  his  guest,  three  days  before, 
on  his  way  to  Bagdad  and  had  informed  him  that  I  was  coming 
and  should  bring  books  with  me.  I  told  him  that  I  had  brought 
some  Syriac  books  for  the  Nesforians  and  asked  him  whether  he 
thought  it  well  to  distribute  books  among  them.  Two  raoollahs 
sat  by  and  he  was  evidently  embarrassed  by  their  presence.  He, 
however,  smilingly  replied,  that  the  learned  clergy  among  the  Nes- 
torians  could  best  decide  that  point.  I  told  him  that  I  had,  the  day 
before,  seen  one  of  their  Patriarchs,  and  showed  him  my  books,  who 
pronounced  them  good  and  suitable  to  be  distributed  among  his 
people.  His  Excellency  said,  "  it  is  then  very  well."  This  gover- 
nor would  probably  never  object  to  the  establishment  of  schools  or 
the  circulation  of  books,  among  the  Nestorians.  Like  all  Persian 
governors,  however,  he  is,  doubtless,  more  or  less  a  creature  of  the 
nioollahs.  While  the  latter  are  quiet,  the  missionary  can  have  pro- 
tection and  pursue  his  labors ;  but  he  must  expect  to  desist,  or  de- 
part from  the  field  even,  if  they  demand  it.  They  watch  with  eagle 
eyes  and  sound  the  alarm  at  the  least  indication  of  danger.  I  am 
satisfied,  that  the  time  has  not  yet  come,  when  open,  direct  efforts 

*  The  Persians,  in  northern  Persia,  commingle  Turkish  and  Persian  terms, 
more  or  less,  as  in  these  specimens,  in  speaking  each  respective  language, — 
the  natural  result  of  using  two  vernacular  tongues.  The  Arabic  enters 
largely  into  salutations  and  other  common  words,  in  both  those  languages. 

t  The  English  novelist  on  Persia.  It  should  not  be  inferred  that  Mr.  F. 
mentioned  my  purpose  of  carrying  books  to  Ordomiah,  with  any  unfriendly 
intention.  He  had  kindly  invited  me  to  accompany  him  and  tendered  to  me 
all  the  aid  in  his  power  to  render;  but  I  found  it  impracticable  to  leave  my 
family  in  season  to  start  with  him. 


GOVE.RIJOB.  OF  OKOOMXAH. 
Li.  Kia  officLol  citttJjuSt  and  dreti 


CHANGE  OF  LODGINGS  APPLICANTS  FOR  BOOKS.  185 


can  be  safely  made,  for  the  conversion  of  Muhammcdnns  in  Persia. 
A  German  missionary,*  who  was  understood  to  be  preparing  a 
book  against  the  Muhammedan  religion,  came  near  losing  liis  life 
in  Tabreez,  about  two  years  ago,  and  still  more  narrowly  escaped, 
some  time  before,  for  distributing  the  Scriptures  at  Kerman-shah. 
Mr.  Haas  and  his  associate  very  wisely  attempt  nothing  except  in 
the  circuitous  way  of  secular  instruction.  In  this  indirect  manner, 
however,  much  may  be  done.  When  the  governor  found  that  I 
had  brought  with  me  no  Persian  books,  he  seemed  to  labor  to  con- 
ceal his  previous  apprehension.  He  inquired  how  I  was  pleased 
with  Oroomiah.  I  replied,  that  I  was  highly  pleased  with  it, — so 
much  so  that  I  even  thought  of  coming  there  by  and  by  to  reside. 
"Most  welcome  will  you  be,"  said  he;  "  the  whole  city  shall  be 
yours."  He  inquired  where  we  were  stopping.  "  In  the  Nestorian 
church,"  answered  our  Armenian  servant.  "What  are  they  doing 
in  the  church?''^  asked  the  governor,  with  an  expression  of  mingled 
mortification  and  surprise,  as  we  had  been  commended  by  the  au- 
thorities at  Tabreez  to  his  special  care ;  to  which  the  Armenian, 
who  was  not  a  whit  behind  the  Muhaniraedans  in  the  arts  of  palaver 
and  evasion,  promptly  replied,  (in  Persian,  which  we  did  not  then 
understand,)  that,  being  very  learned  men,  we  were  attracted  to  the 
church  and  its  cemetery,  as  objects  of  antiquarian  interest.  His 
Excellency  ordered  a  house  to  be  immediately  procured  for  our 
lodgings,  during  our  stay,  and  directed  a  yoi^ng  beg  to  accompany 
us  over  the  city  to  visit  its  ahtiquities  and  curiosities. 

We  returned  to  the  church  and  had  our  effects  removed  thence  to 
the  house  provided  for  us  by  the  governor.  Mar  Elias — the  bishop, 
and  a  priest  or  two  soon  called  again  to  see  us.  Several  applicants 
for  books  came  also  from  distant  villages  ;  and  among  the  rest,  four 
little  boys,  on  foot,  from  GSog-tapa,  five  miles  distant.  They  belong 
to  Mar  Elias's  small  school.  They  had  heard  of  my  being  in  their 
village  yesterday  and  having  books  with  me ;  and  all  started  im- 
mediately to  procure  books  for  themselves.  They  sat  down  around 
nje  and  i  gave  to  each  a  copy  of  the  Gospels  and  a  spelling-book, 
which  they  reverently  kissed  and  folded  to  their  bosoms  and  then 
read  from  them  in  a  very  pleasing  manner.  Mar  Elias  seemed  lit- 
tle less  gratified  than  myself  with  the  exhibition.  He  and  a  priest 
were  with  us  at  dinner.  It  being  Wednesday — one  of  their  fast 
dayst — we  had  nothing  they  could  eat  but  bread  and  grapes.  In 
the  course  of  the  afternoon,  the  governor  sent  us  presents  of  tea, 
sugar,  fresh  fish  and  bushels  of  grapes  and  melons.    We  were  sor- 

*  Rev.  Mr.  Pfander. 

t  Nestorian  bishops,  as  has  before  been  stated,  never  eat  flesh.  They  or- 
dinarily eat  fisii,  eggs  and  tlie  productions  of  the  dairy,  as  well  as  vegetables. 
On  fast  days,  bishops,  priests  and  people  eat  nothing  but  vegetables.  Every 
Wednesday  and  Friday  are  fast  days — besides  the  numerous  other  special 
seasons — the  former  being  the  day  on  which  Christ  was  betrayed,  and  the 
latter,  the  day  of  his  crucifixion. 

24 


186 


DIRECTION  or  THE  FACE  IN  PRAYER. 


ry  to  see  the  presents,  as  an  exorbitant  return  is  commonly  expected, 
corresponding  in  amount  to  the  rank  of  the  Persian  donor.  The 
governor,  however,  had  the  real  politeness  to  charge  his  servants 
who  brought  the  articles  not  to  receive  from  us  a  farthing, — a  pre- 
caution frequently  taken,  among  the  better  educated  of  the  Persians. 

At  evening,  Mar  Yohannan  returned  from  GCog-tapa.  I  inquired 
of  him  what  the  Patriarch  said,  respecting  his  going  to  Tabreez. 
"  He  told  me, "said  he,  "  to  go  home  with  you  and  do  just  as  you  say." 
And  the  bishop  at  the  same  time  took  from  his  pocket  two  impres- 
sions vvh.ich  the  Patriarch  had  given  him  of  his  seal,  directing  him, 
inasmuch  as  he  would  himself  be  situated  at  a  great  distance  from 
us  and  the  road  was  often  rendered  impassable  by  Koordish  hostili- 
ty, to  aid  me  in  his  name  by  the  use  of  those  impressions,  in  any 
undertaking  in  which  T  might  need  his  influence,  as  in  the  establish- 
ment of  schools,  the  printing  of  books,  or  in  other  ways.  Such  a 
mark  of  his  confidence  in  me  and  approbation  of  my  object  was 
equally  unexpected  and  gratifying.  Mar  Yohannan  took  lodgings 
in  the  same  room  with  us.  About  9  o'clock,  we  informed  him 
that  it  was  our  practice  to  have  worship,  morning  and  evening, 
and  we  would  submit  the  point  to  his  pleasure,  whether  we  should 
listen  to  him,  or  he  to  us.  He  replied,  that  wc  had  already  seen 
how  the  Nestorians  pray,  and  now  he  should  be  very  happy  to  see 
how  we  pray.  I  read  a  chapter  from  the  Bible  and  we  kneeled  down 
and  prayed.  As  soon  as  we  closed,  the  bishop  abruptly  exclaimed, 
"  it  is  very  well."  Observing  Mr.  H.  and  myself  to  kneel  in  differ- 
ent directions,  however,  he  inquired  which  way  we  turn  our  faces, 
when  we  pray.  We  told  him,  that  we  are  not  particular  on  that 
point,  as  God  is  in  all  places.  "God  is  everywhere,"  he  repeated, 
"  that  is  your  reason  is  it  ?"  He  appeared  satisfied  with  our  answer, 
but  added  that  the  Nestorians  direct  their  faces  to  the  East,  in 
prayer,  because  they  expect  Christ  to  come  from  that  direction,  bas- 
ing this  expectation  on  the  passage  in  Matt.  24:  27,  "  For  as  the 
lightning  cometh  out  of  the  east  and  shineth  even  unto  the  west,  so 
shall  also  the  coming  of  the  son  of  man  be." 

Oct.  23.  Two  bishops  and  priests  were  again  with  us  at  break- 
fast. In  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  we  walked  awhile  in  the  ba- 
zars and  called  to  take  our  leave  of  the  governor.  He  again 
received  us  with  much  cordiality  and  attention.  In  the  course  of 
our  conversation,  I  remarked  that  I  had  some  expectation  that  a 
physician  might  come  with  me  to  Or6omiah,in  easel  should  reside 
there;  and  he  appeared  much  gratified  with  such  a  probability. 
Our  muleteer  was  engaged  and  we  had  intended  to  set  off  that  day 
on  our  return.  But  the  governor  wished  to  send  letters  by  us,  which 
were  not  yet  prepared,  and  he  had  invited  us  to  visit  his  gardens 
back  of  the  city;  and,  on  the  whole  he  rather  insisted  on  our  stay- 
ing until  the  next  day.  We  therefore  deferred  our  departure,  and 
in  the  afternoon  visited  his  gardens.    They  are  about  a  mile  in  ex- 


GARDENS'  SCENERY  COMMUNION. 


187 


tent  and  very  tastefully  laid  out.  Two  rows  of  thickly  studded 
poplars  surround  each,  with  a  stream  of  water  running  between 
them.  The  gardens  are  also  covered  with  thrifty  fruit  trees,  ar- 
ranged in  rows  and  squares,  and  they  are  ornamented  with  rose- 
bushes and  other  flowers,  and  fountains  were  here  and  there  playing 
in  them.  We  wandered  through  several  other  gardens  and  vine- 
yards beyond,  till  our  ramble  brought  us  to  the  foot  of  the  Koordish 
mountains.  We  still  proceeded  and  ascended  two  or  three  heights, 
from  which  we  enjoyed  a  commanding  survey  of  the  most  enchant- 
ing scenery  I  ever  beheld.  We  had  a  perfect  view,  first  of  the  gar* 
dens  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  ;  next,  the  city ;  beyond  that,  the 
vast  plain,  gleaming  with  a  grateful  harvest  and  decked  with  or- 
chards and  villages;  and  finally,  the  silvery  lake,  melting  away  into 
the  blue  mountains  beyond,  and  both  rising  in  the  distance  and  ap- 
parently meeting  the  skies.  Forgetting,  for  the  moment,  the  moral 
night  that  broods  over  this  beautiful  scene,  I  could  hardly  resist  the 
impression,  as  I  gazed  from  the  mountain-top,  that  my  eyes  were 
resting  upon  the  garden  of  paradise. 

This  evening,  Mar  Yohannan  informed  me,  that  he  had  engaged, 
as  his  servant,  the  most  intelligent  priest  in  the  province,  belonging 
in  G^og-tapa,  who  had  always  sat  at  the  feet  of  Mar  Elias.  I  inqui- 
red why  he  had  engaged  a  man  of  such  prominence  as  his  servant, 
and  he  replied,  '  in  the  first  place,  I  wish  to  take  with  me  a  Nesto- 
rian  who  shall  prove  a  worthy  companion  as  well  as  servant,  fof  me ; 
and  in  the  next  place,  I  wish  to  take  one,  who  shall  show  himself 
worthy  also  of  i/our  attention  and  instruction.'  I  could  not  object 
to  either  of  these  reasons,  especially,  as  the  bishop  remarked  that 
no  additional  salary  would  be  expected,  in  consideration  of  the 
character  and  standing  of  his  servant. 

Two  bishops  and  one  priest  dined  with  us,  after  our  late  return 
from  our  ramble,  with  whom  we  continued  a  friendly  conversation, 
until  9  o'clock  in  the  evening.  They  proposed  to  celebrate  the 
Lord's  supper  to-morrow  morning,  for  our  gratification. 

Oct.  24.  We  rose  before  day  and  went  to  the  church.  We  found 
the  bishops  and  priests  engaged  in  reciting  their  prayers.  They 
continued  about  half  an  hour  after  we  arrived,  and  then  commenced 
the  communion  service.  A  bishop  and  priest,  garbed  in  white  cot- 
ton robes,  chanted  the  service  in  the  sanctum  sanctorum,  which 
laymen  are  not  allowed  to  enter.  This  service  is  usually  performed 
by  a  priest  and  a  deacon,  but  no  deacon  happened  now  to  be 
present.  The  bread,  at  the  close,  was  received  from  the  hand  of 
the  superior  officiator  at  the  altar,  and  the  wine  from  the  inferior 
one,  in  a  lower  position,  by  the  side  of  the  altar.  The  wine  at  their 
communion  is  diluted  with  water,  not  on  temperance  grounds,  but 
because  ^^7a^e}',  as  well  as  hlood,  flowed  from  the  side  of  the  Saviour. 
Both  elements  are  extended  to  all  the  communicants.  Though  the 
whole  service  was  far  more  simple  than  the  disgusting  routine  of 


168 


APOSTATE  RESTORED  A  PINE  BOY. 


ceremonies  which  attend  it  in  the  other  oriental  churches,  still,  it 
was  but  too  evidently  a  heartless  form. 

The  boy,  who  had  been  forced  to  become  a  Muhammedan  and 
recanted, — the  one  whom  Mr.  Haas  had  taken  into  his  service, — 
embraced  the  occasion  to  be  formally  restored  to  the  christian  faith. 
The  ordeal  was  this.  The  boy  kneeled  down  before  the  altar  and 
placed  his  lips  upon  the  New  Testament,  and  the  bishop  who  offi- 
ciated at  the  communion,  repeated  a  confession  to  which  the  boy 
assented,  and  the  bishop  then  prayed  over  him.  After  we  had 
listened  about  two  hours  to  their  mummery  in  a  dead,  obsolete 
tongue, — the  ancient  Syriac — Mar  Elias,  as  if  to  apologize  for  it, 
called  us  to  the  altar,  read  a  chapter  of  the  New  Testament  and 
translated  it  quite  intelligibly  into  Turkish.  We  set  off  for  home 
about  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  amid  the  reiterated  bene- 
dictions of  bishops,  priests  and  people.  If  real  piety  were  to  be 
estimated  by  the  amount  of  p?'ow5  talk,  we  might  infer  the  existence 
of  much  more  general  and  more  exalted  piety,  in  all  these  regions, 
than  exists  in  the  most  devoted  christian  communities.  The  gov- 
ernor furnished  us  with  an  armed  horseman  to  act  as  a  guard  and  a 
guide,  as  far  as  Suldooz,  the  next  district.  We  rode  about  six  and 
a  half  fursakhs,  that  day,  and  put  up  at  the  village  of  Ddsli-oghul, 
stone-son.  Our  direction  was  south-east,  the  first  half  of  the  way, 
during  which  we  passed  several  charming  villages.  We  then  came 
to  the  lake,  where  the  moimtain  shuts  down  quite  near  the  water's 
edge,  and  our  direction  changed  to  south,  leading  around  the  south- 
west corner  of  the  lake.  The  soil,  during  the  last  part  of  our  ride, 
was  gravelly  and  uncultivated,  except  here  and  there  a  small  Koord- 
ish  hamlet,  under  the  cliffs  of  the  mountain.  We  noticed  also  a  few 
black  tents,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  road,  and  saw  almost  num- 
berless Koords,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  returning  home  with  their 
flocks  from  their  summer  rambles.  The  nomade  Koords,  who  are 
subjects  of  the  Persian  government,  are  entitled  to  temporary  homes 
in  the  villages,  with  their  agricultural  neighbors,  whether  Chris- 
tians or  Muhammedans,  during  the  winter. 

On  our  way,  we  called  at  Gfiog-tapa,  the  village  where  we  had 
visited  the  Patriarch,  for  the  priest.  Mar  Yohannan's  servant.  The 
whole  village  gathered  around  to  welcome  us.  The  aged  father  of 
the  finest  boy  in  Mar  Elias's  school  led  his  little  son — ten  years  old — 
to  me  and  said,  "  I  present  this  boy  to  you;  you  may  take  him  with 
you  to  Tabreez."  Fear  of  the  responsibility  of  taking  care  of  the 
boy  before  I  could  speak  his  language,  was  the  only  thing  that  ena- 
bled me  to  resist  my  inclination  to  receive  him.  I  satisfied  the  fa- 
ther by  proposing  to  take  his  son  when  I  should  remove  to  Oroo- 
miah.  He  is  a  remarkably  fine  looking  boy,  and  I  think  missionary 
bounty  would  be  well  applied  in  his  thorough  education. 

The  priest  at  length  made  his  appearance,  with  his  bed  and 
prayer-book.   He  is  a  young  man — about  twenty  years  old — modest, 


I'hIKST  ABKAUAit  (U  nOKOOMTATI . 


PRIEST  ABRAHAM  : 


■RARE  BOOKS. 


189 


and  apparently  amiable  and  intelligent.*  His  parents, — and  indeed 
nearly  the  whole  village — were  deeply  affected  in  view  of  his  de- 
parture,— though  they  professed  to  be  very  well  satisfied  and  happy 
in  the  prospect  of  his  living  with  me.  His  mother  came  and  kissed 
my  hands,  threw  herself  down  at  my  feet,  and  with  many  tears  en- 
treated me  to  take  good  care  of  her  son,  and  shield  him  from  the 
Mussulmans  ;  and  when  we  proceeded,  almost  all  present  embraced 
their  priest,  wept  aloud  and  followed  us  far  on  the  road.  It  is  quite 
affecting  to  notice  the  simple,  warm  overflowings  of  attachment, 
among  these  uncultivated  people,  but  few  of  whom  ever  leave  sight 
of  their  native  villages.  My  heart  rose  in  thanksgiving  to  God,  as 
we  rode  on,  that  I  was  permitted  to  conduct  home  with  me  two  of 
the  most  promising  and  influential  ecclesiastics  that  are  to  be  found 
in  the  province,  or  among  the  entire  people. 

Two  hours'  ride  from  G6og-tapa  brought  us  to  Ardishai,  the  vil- 
lage of  Mar  Gabriel.  We  halted  to  see  the  bishop,  and  on  entering 
his  house  we  unexpectedly  found  with  him  the  Patriarch,  Elias,  sur- 
rounded by  a  large  collection  of  his  people.  Our  baggage  had 
gone  on,  and  our  visit  was  necessarily  short;  but  to  me  it  was  very 
gratifying.  The  Patriarch  received  us  with  the  cordiality  of  a  brother, 
and  repeated  his  assurances  that  I  had  his  hearty  welcome,  and 
should  always  have  his  utmost  cooperation  in  my  efforts  to  benefit 
his  people.  For  a  little  amusement,  he  brought  forward  an  old  Sy- 
riac  Bible  with  a  Latin  translation  .given  him  by  a  Papal  missionary ; 
and  we  read,  alternately,  he  the  Syriac,  and  I  the  Latin.  A  priest 
of  the  village  brought  to  me  'Asseman,'  complete  in  four  folio  vol- 
umes, and  most  of  the  works  of  '  Ephrem  the  Syrian,'  with  a  Latin 
translation,  both  of  which  he  offered  for  sale.t  I  had  little  expected 
to  find  books  of  that  description  and  value,  in  a  Nestorian  village. 
The  e.xplanation  was,  that  the  owner  had  recently  come  to  that  re- 
gion from  Elkoiish,  where  he  had  been  a  Papal  monk  ;  but  had  now 
abandoned  Rome  and  embraced  the  Nestorian  communion.  His 
uncle,  who  was  now  dead,  had  been  sent  to  the  Propaganda  and 
educated  there  as  a  missionary,  and  had  brought  these  books  with 
him  on  his  return  to  his  native  country.  At  his  death,  they  fell  into 
the  hands  of  this  nephew,  who  knew  little  of  their  contents  or  value. 
Bishop  Gabriel  rode  on  with  us  about  four  miles.  He  is  a  wild- 
looking  young  man,  but  energetic,  and  may  become  an  instrument 
of  great  good  to  his  people,  if  qualified  by  the  Spirit  of  God. 
We  reached  Dash-oghul,  our  stopping-place,  not  until  it  was  quite 
dark.  The  villagers  were  frightened,  fled  into  their  houses  and  fas- 
tened the  doors.  After  much  entreaty,  we  induced  a  man,  who 
happened  to  be  out  in  the  street,  to  seek  for  us  a  shelter,  and  were 


*  The  reader  may  be  gratified  to  know,  thus  early,  that  this  is  Priest  Abra- 
ham, who  has  from  the  first  been  one  of  our  most  valuable  native  helpers. 

t  We  subsequently  purchased  these  very  rare  and  valuable  works  for  a 
moderate  price,  and  have  them  in  our  mission  library. 


190 


SULD002  A  PRINCE. 


conducted  by  him  into  a  stable,  at  one  end  of  which  was  an  ele- 
vated earth  platform,  spread  ov^er  with  an  old  carpet,  and  on  this  we 
very  comfortably  lodged. 

Oct.  25.  We  rode  six  filrsakhs,  our  course  still  continuing  south. 
About  two  miles  from  our  stopping-place,  we  passed  Shcitan-abad, 
Devil's  (Satan's)  habitation.  It  is  a  kind  of  metropolis  of  the  dis- 
trict of  Dol,  which  embraces  the  few  villaaes  under  the  mountains, 
on  the  south-east  corner  of  the  plain  of  Oroomiah.  It  is  partly  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  which  is  now  falling  to  ruiua.  Whether  the 
Koords  here,  like  the  Yesideez  in  the  province  of  Bayazeed  and  else- 
where, cherish  special  veneration  for  the  Devil,  I  did  not  ascertain. 
There  can  be  little  doubt,  however,  that  such  was  the  origin  of  the 
name  of  this  village. 

At  Sheitan-abad  the  mountains  again  close  down  near  the  lake, 
and  our  road  led  over  them.  Upon  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  we 
noticed  many  black  tents  of  the  Koords,  numerous  herds  and  flocks 
grazing,  and  occasionally  a  hamlet.  In  passing  from  the  limits  of 
Oroomiah,  we  entered  Suldooz.  Its  villages  are  mostly  in  an  ex- 
tensive valley  among  the  mountains.  A  considerable  stream — the 
Jedder — runs  through  this  valley.  We  put  up  at  the  village  of  Neg- 
hadeh,  which  is  the  residence  of  the  governor  of  the  district.  It  is 
built  around  a  conical  hill,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  citadel  and  the 
governor's  palace  within  it,  overlooking  the  whole  valley.  The  soil 
of  this  district  is  e.vtremely  fertile,  but  the  villages  are  wretched. 
Vast  quantities  of  wheat  and  barley  are  produced  there,  as  also  ex- 
cellent fruit,  particularly  peaches.  The  ketkhodeh  of  the  village 
where  we  stopped,  conducted  us  to  the  palace,  and  a  room  was  soon 
vacated  for  our  reception.  The  governor  was  absent  with  the  Per- 
sian army,  on  the  expedition  against  the  Jellalee  Koords.  The  let- 
ter sent  to  him  by  the  governor  of  Oroomiah,  commending  us  to  his 
protection  and  aid,  was  delivered  to  his  son. 

Prince  Malek  Kasem  Meerza, — a  son  of  the  old  king  of  Persia, — 
happened  now  to  be  in  Neghadeh,  on  a  tour  in  Koordistan.*  He 
and  the  son  of  the  governor  were  out  hunting  when  we  arrived. 
Immediately  on  his  return,  he  sent  us  an  invitation  to  visit  him, 
which  we  did,  and  passed  the  evening  with  him,  dining  on  the 
game  he  had  taken.  He  is  very  friendly  and  social  in  his  disposi- 
tion ;  and  he  has  so  long  been  acquainted  with  gentlemen  connected 
with  the  English  and  Russian  embassies,  that  he  has  himself  be- 
come quite  European  in  character.  He  speaks  French  fluently  and 
knows  some  English.  His  object  in  making  his  pre.sent.  tour,  he 
told  us,  was  to  aid  him  in  preparing  an  accurate  map  of  Koordistan 
of  which  so  little  is  known.  This  map,  he  added,  he  intended  to 
present  to  the  Asiatic  Society  at  Paris,  of  which  he  had  the  honor 
to  be  a  member. 


"  This  was  my  first  acquaintance  with  this  prince,  whom  I  shall  have  fre- 
quent occasion  to  mentioQ  as  a  friend  of  our  missioiK 


VOTIVE  PLEDGES  KOOHDS, 


191 


On  the  mountain,  by  the  road-side,  we  noticed,  to-day,  a  solitary 
thorn-bush  of  considerable  size,  completely  covered  with  siiiall  strips 
of  rags  which  had  from  time  to  time  been  tied  to  its  limbs  and  twigs 
as  tokens  of  votive  pledges  made  by  travellers.  The  rag  is  usually 
torn  from  the  girdle  or  a  garment  worn  by  the  traveller.  It  is  still 
a  very  common  practice  in  the  East,  as  it  was  in  Scripture  periods,* 
to  erect  standing  mementoes  of  religious  pledges.  The  Koords 
make  those  pledges  on  almost  all  occasions,  even  when  some  dia- 
bolical plot,  as  robbery  or  murder,  is  to  be  perpetrated.  In  their 
religious  system,  they  find  but  ineffectual  barriers  to  the  commission 
of  such  deeds,  particularly  with  the  aid  of  their  own  explanation. 
When,  for  instance,  they  remember  that  it  is  forbidden,  in  the 
Koran,  to  rob  any  living  man,  if  they  are  pious  enough  to  yield  to 
scruples,  it  is  reported  that  they  kill  the  man  and  rob  hira  after  he 
is  dead. 

We  were  now  fairly  in  the  country  of  the  Koords.  Here,  how- 
ever, we  felt  little  apprehension.  About  eight  years  before,  iibbas 
Meerza  had  caused  a  thousand  Persian  families  to  emigrate  from 
the  province  of  Erivan,  then  under  his  jurisdiction,  into  the  district 
of  Suldooz,  with  the  design  of  taming  the  frightful  Koords.  This 
object  has  in  a  measure  been  accomplished,  though  it  may  be  a 
question  on  which  class  the  reciprocal  influence  has  been  greatest; 
for  the  Persians  of  that  district  are  now  aln^ost  as  notorious  robbers 
as  the  Koords  themselves.  These  Persians  enjoy  important  immu- 
nities. Suldooz,  on  their  comincr  to  occupy  it,  was  made  a  pro- 
vince with  a  government  separate  from  that  of  the  Koords  among 
whom  they  dwell  and  subject  to  no  taxation  from  the  general  gov- 
ernment, except  the  outfit  of  five  hundred  horsemen  in  time  of  war. 
They  are  called,  by  the  Koords,  Kard-papiiks — black  caps — in  re- 
ference to  their  black  Iamb-skin  caps, — the  common  covering  for 
the  head  in  Persia.  Perhaps  also  in  contempt  of  these,  when  com- 
pared with  their  own  imposing  head  dresses,i"  which  are  huge  tur- 
bans, composed  of  a  very  large  shawl,  striped  red  and  white,  coiled 
around  a  red  broadcloth  cap  until  the  whole  assumes  the  shape  of  a 
great  shield  and  is  attached  to  the  back  of  the  head  obliquely  and 
almost  perpendicularly  and  fastened  thus  by  a  handkerchief  or  belt 
passing  around  the  forehead.  These  turbans  give  to  their  naturally 
wild,  lofty  air  a  very  impressive  appearance.  Their  rude  simplicity 
reminded  me  much  of  the  aborigines  of  our  ow)^  country.  Tliey 
had  not  often  seen  European  travellers  and  showed  us  much  re- 
spect as  such.  They  frequently  dismounted  at  a  distance,  when 
about  to  meet  us,  and  made  their  obeisance.  They  are  not  desti- 
tute of  interest  to  the  missionary.  Though  Muhammcdans,  they 
are  far  less  influenced  and  injured  by  their  religion  than  are  the 
Persians.  Their  private  morals  are  less  corrupt  and  they  are  more 
tolerant  towards  nominal  Christians.    And  it  is  interestins  to  know 


*  Genesis  28:  18. 


t  See  Drawing,  p.  5. 


192 


LANGUAGE  ACCIDENT. 


that  they  have  not  been  entirely  forgotten  in  the  sympathies  of 
Christendom.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Hoernle,  of  the  Basle  Missionary 
Society,  has  commenced  the  study  of  their  language  with  reference 
to  a  Koordish  translation  of  the  New  Testament.* 

As  the  Koords,  however,  are  nomade  tribes,  all  efforts  exerted  for 
their  religious  benefit  must  of  course  be  much  more  precarious  than 
if  they  possessed  a  permanency  of  character.  Their  language  has 
rarely  been  written.!  It  has  the  character  of  Persian  or  Turkish— 
radically  the  former — more  or  less  as  a  given  district  is  situated  in 
proximity  to  one  or  other  of  those  countries.  They  have  men  who 
are  learned,  we  were  told,  in  the  Arabic,  Persian  and  Turkish  lan- 
guages. But  of  whatever  language  they  speak  a  corruption,  they 
make  it  in  a  sense  their  own.  To  an  ear  unaccustomed  to  hear 
them,  the  sounds  are  singularly  novel  and  amusing.  They  have  a 
kind  of  trill  which,  added  to  their  earnest,  impetuous  enunciation, 
reminded  me  most  of  anything  of  the  rumbling  of  machinery. — I 
may  remark,  as  another  consideration  unfavorable  to  missionary  ef- 
forts of  a  literary  character  for  the  Koords,  that  it  is  the  wish,  alike 
of  the  Turkish  and  Persian  governments,  to  bring  them  gradually 
down  from  their  wild  mountain  fastnesses  and  amalgamate  them 
with  the  rest  of  their  subjects.  And  any  efforts  to  g\v&  permanency 
to  them,  as  a  distinct  people,  as  putting  books  into  the  language 
might  be  supposed  to  do,  (though  in  fact  the  very  best  way  to  tame 
them,)  would  probably  incur  the  jealousy  and  opposition  of  those 
governments. 

Oct.  26.  The  son  of  the  governor  of  Suldooz  importuned  us  to 
remain  a  day  and  be  his  guest ;  but  our  apprehension  of  the  com- 
mencement of  the  fall  rains  forbade  us  to  linger.  He  directed  two 
of  his  men,  who  were  just  starting  off  for  Tabreez,  to  accompany 
us  as  guides.  Our  direction  now  changed  to  north-east, — our  way 
leading  around  the  south-east  corner  of  the  lake.  We  started  early 
— before  sun-rise — and  the  morning,  in  that  damp  valley,  was  quite 
cold.  As  we  were  crossing  a  deep  muddy  brook,  Mar  Yohannan's 
horse  fell  and  plunged  him  and  his  effects  into  the  stream.  Most 
of  our  party  had  rode  on;  but  on  observing  the  accident,  we  all 
hastened  back  to  sympathize  with  the  bishop  and  aid  him  if  we 
could, — expecting  of  course  to  find  him  as  sad  as  his  dripping  con- 
dition was  comfortless.  He  had  crawled  out  upon  the  bank,  as  we 
rode  up ;  but  instead  of  our  meeting  the  sombre  visage  we  had  an- 
ticipated, he  looked  up  at  us  and  laughed, — and  with  an  air  so  pe- 
culiar as  to  leave  on  my  mind  a  vivid  and  indelible  impression  of 
his  remarkable  good-nature,  as  well  as  of  the  disposition  to  make 
the  best  of  a  hard  matter  that  cannot  be  helped,  which  is  far  more 

*  Mr.  Hocrnlp,  on  thornii^Iily  e.xaniinin^  the  subject,  decided  that  it  wag 
not  expedient,  to  make  tlie  contemplated  translation.  He  ascertained  that 
there  were  between  one  and  two  hundred  distinct  tribes  and  as  many  dia- 
lects, which  it  would  of  course  be  a  fruitless  task  to  attempt  to  harmonize. 

t  Zeitschrift  der  Knnde  des  Morgenlandes,  Vol.  III.  p.  13. 


SODA  SPRING  VILLAGE  ON  FIRE. 


193 


characteristic  of  Orientals  than  of  Europeans.  His  first  concern 
was  to  look  for  the  safety  of  his  prayer-book,  which,  on  opening  his 
bundle,  he  found  to  be  soaked  ;  and  while  I  was  struggling  to  find 
words  (in  a  strange  language)  to  express  my  sorrow  for  the  misfor- 
tune, he  was  deliberately  pulling  open  the  wet  leaves  and  reiterating 
— "There  is  no  one  to  blame — do  not  feel  sorry — there  is  no  one 
to  blame."  We  passed  several  villages  in  proceeding  through  the 
valley.  The  Koords  here  seemed  not  to  understand  Turkish,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  employ  Mar  Yohannan  who  knows  their  lan- 
guage, as  our  interpreter.  On  leaving  the  valley  of  Suldooz,  we 
crossed  a  small  rocky  ridge,  and  entered  a  plain  oi"  vast  extent  which 
opens  to  the  south  end  of  the  lake.  As  we  descended  from  the 
ridge  to  the  plsiin,  we  passed  a  soda  spring,  which  boils  up  from  a 
rock  in  the  middle  of  the  road.  The  gas,  issuing  with  the  water 
from  an  orifice  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  produces  a  vivid  effer- 
vescence ;  and  the  water  tastes  much  like  soda  artificially  prepared. 
This  water  gradually  deposits  incrustations  which  appear  to  be  in 
a  process  of  becoming  marble.  Around  the  spring-,  a  conical  mound 
has  thus  accumulated.  The  surface  is  tvfa,  but  the  stone  as  we 
thought  grows  harder,  as  you  descend. 

On  the  plain,  we  passed  several  Koordish  villages.  Many  of  the 
houses  are  covered  with  thatch  which  consists  of  a  reed  that  grows 
abundantly  here,  much  taller  and  larger  than  the  stalks  of  rank 
broom-corn  in  America.*  The  thatch  is  wholly  or  in  part  covered 
with  earth,  but  is  still  very  combustible,  and  nearly  half  of  one  of 
the  villages,  when  we  passed  it,  was  on  fire.  After  leaving  these 
villages,  we  travelled  over  a  vast  uncultivated  country  which  is  per- 
fectly level.  The  high  grass,  rushes  and  the  weed  above  mention- 
ed were  even  with  our  horses'  backs  and  sometimes  jnuch  above 
them,  waving  like  the  ocean  on  all  sides  of  us,  and  stretching  to  an 
almost  interminable  extent,  in  every  direction.  In  some  places, 
large  herds  and  flocks  were  grazing,  while  other  parts  of  the  plain 
were  swept  perfectly  clean  by  recent  fires  which  are  lighted  at  this 
season,  that  the  dry  stalks  may  not  remain  to  impede  the  future 
crop.  Several  fires  were  now  in  progress,  on  different  parts  of  the 
plain,  and  presented  scenes  of  sublimity  perhaps  not  unlike  those 
often  witnessed  in  the  western  wilds  of  America. 

We  missed  our  road,  and  still  attempted  to  make  our  way  through 
the  forest  of  grass  and  reeds.  After  travelling  some  time,  we  reach- 
ed  a  considerable  stream — the  Tattavoos — which  appeared  to  be 
deep,  with  high  banks  and  a  muddy  bottom.  The  grass  prevented 
our  observing  the  stream,  until  our  horses  had  well  nigh  leaped  into 
it.  We  were  now  obliged  to  follow  the  bank  of  the  river  a  long 
distance.  At  length,  we  came  to  a  place  where  the  water  appeared 
so  shallow  that  we  ventured  to  force  our  horses  in  and  rode  safely 

*  The  same  from  which  the  mats  are  constructed,  lor  the  floors  and  roofs 
of  Persian  houses. 


25 


194 


EXAGGERATION  MEANDAUF. 


through  the  stream.  Our  cowardly  Persian  guides,  who  bad  proved 
to  be  sad  misleaders,  long  and  loudly  remonstrated  against  our  pre- 
sumption, in  attempting  to  cross  the  river,  and  hardly  dared  follow 
us  when  they  saw  us  safe  on  the  opposite  shore,  and  after  I  had 
stopped  in  the  middle  of  the  current  and  allowed  my  horse  to  drink, 
to  embolden  them. 

On  the  bank  of  this  river  and  near  the  spot  where  we  crossed  it, 
a  Russian  officer,  as  our  guides  told  us,  was  murdered  many  years 
ago.  He  had  been  in  the  Persian  service,  at  Tabreez,  and  offend- 
ed the  prince,  Abbas  Meerza,  who  in  retaliation,  directed  the  gov- 
ernor of  this  district  to  invite  the  officer  here  to  hunt  with  him,  and 
embrace  the  opportunity  thus  presented  of  assassinating  him.  The 
unsuspecting  officer  complied  with  the  invitation  of  ihe  governor, 
as  soon  as  it  was  given.  They  were  fishing  together  in  this  river. 
A  servant  of  the  governor,  according  to  previous  instruction,  re- 
quested the  dirk  of  the  officer,  to  cut  away  some  high  grass.  The 
dirk  was  delivered  to  the  servant  and  in  a  moment  was  lodged  by 
him  in  the  body  of  its  owner.  This  may  probably  have  happened. 
The  Persians,  however,  are  wonderfully  given  to  tragical  as  well  as 
marvellous  narrations,  which,  with  their  dressing  up,  often  become 
alike  ridiculous  and  incredible.  Two  English  travellers,  for  in- 
stance, were  many  years  ago  murdered  near  Bagdad ;  and  a  mem- 
ber of  the  present  embassy  happening  recently  to  pass  that  way,  was 
pointed  by  the  people  to  the  very  spot  where,  they  told  him,  eleven 
English  ambassadors  had  been  murdered  in  a  single  day  !  And 
one  travelling  in  Persia  soon  learns  to  give  credence  to  the  state- 
ments of  the  inhabitants  only  in  proportion  as  they  are  authentica- 
ted by  concurring  circumstances  or  the  testimony  of  Europeans 
who  reside  in  the  country. 

An  hour's  ride  from  the  river  brought  us  to  the  village  of  Chil- 
leek,  our  stopping-place,  which  is  seven  farsakhs  from  Neghadeh. 
This  village  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  small  district  of  Mean- 
daub,  belonging  to  the  province  of  Maragha.  It  is  the  property  of 
the  prince,  whom  we  saw  at  Suldooz,  and  is  inhabited  partly  by  Ar- 
menians and  partly  by  Muhammedans.  The  district  takes  its  name 
from  its  location,  lying  between  two  rivers,  which  are  about  six 
miles  apart, — the  one  already  mentioned  and  the  Jjlghatee,*  which, 
where  we  crossed  it,  is  about  six  or  eight  rods  wide  ;  the  name, 
Meanddub,  signifying  between  two  waters.  At  some  distance  to  the 
east,  under  the  mountain,  is  an  ancient  village  of  the  same  name — 
Meandaub,  now  much  in  ruins,  but  still  the  residence  of  a  son  of 
the  governor  of  Maragha,  who  acts  as  deputy  governor  of  the  dis- 
trict. Our  muleteer,  with  our  baggage,  also  lost  his  way,  and  did 

"  Tills  river  is  celebrated  for  its  fislj.  Says  Kinnier,  "  fifty-three  miles  from 
that  town,  (MaraghA,)  on  the  road  to  Sennah,  I  encamped  for  several  days 
on  the  banks  of  the  J3g;hat6e,  vehich  is  liere  upwards  of  200  paces  wide,  and 
full  of  fish,  some  of  them  almost  six  feet  in  length." — Geog.  Memoir,  p.  150. 


foreigners'  taxes  MARAGUA. 


195 


not  reach  us  until  quite  late,  so  that  we  ate  nothing  from  7  o'clock 
in  the  morning  until  10  in  the  evening. 

Oct.  27.  We  were  early  on  our  way  and  continued  our  course, 
north-east,  over  the  great  plain,  which  soon  again  became  unculti- 
vated. The  sameness  of  the  scene  was  much  enlivened  by  the  zeal 
for  learning  English,  manifested  by  our  Nestorian  companions.  We 
became  mutually  instructers  and  learners, — the  bishop  and  priest 
teaching  me  the  names  of  things  and  to  count,  in  Nestorian  ;  and  I, 
teaching  them  in  English.  Three  hours  from  Chilleek  brought  us 
to  the  north-east  corner  of  the  plain,  to  the  large  village  of  Yool- 
gunlee.  This  village  takes  its  name  from  Voolgun, — a  wild  weed, 
which  is  an  abundant  product  of  the  plain.  Here  our  road  changed 
its  direction  to  north-west,  leading  along  under  the  mountain,  until 
it  brought  us,  after  two  fursakhs,  to  a  broken  ridge,  through  a  defile, 
in  which  we  passed  and  entered  the  narrow  valley  of  Mara^ha.  Our 
road  there  changed  its  direction  to  north-east,  and  two  fiirsakhs  more 
brought  us  to  the  city  of  Maragha,  making  our  ride,  that  day,  seven 
farsakhs. 

A  little  before  we  reached  the  city,  we  passed  a  threshing-floor, 
at  some  distance  from  the  road,  and  one  of  the  laborers  came  run- 
ning towards  me  with  a  fall  sheaf  of  wheat  for  my  horse.  Europeans 
are  seldom  seen  here,  and  when  seen  are  always  supposed  to  be 
loaded  with  money.  And  in  all  parts  of  Peisia,  productions  of  the 
field,  as  well  as  fruits,  are  thus  presented  to  the  passing  traveller 
with  the  expectation  of  receiving  many  times  their  value,  though- 
the  article  be  not  taken.  Some  of  the  early  English  embassies  to 
this  country  sowed  the  seeds  of  endless  inconvenience  to  European 
travellers,  by  their  lavish  career,  to  impress  the  Persians  with  the 
idea  of  their  superiority  in  wealth  and  character,  to  the  Russians. 
I  have  heard  a  peasant  at  Tabreez  speak  of  having  received  seventy- 
five  dollars  from  Sir  John  Malcom  for  a  basket  of  fruit  !  English 
gentlemen  have  long  since  greatly  modified  this  course,  from  mo- 
tives of  policy  as  well  as  economy.  I  have  usually  taken  the  liberty 
to  decline  presents,  on  the  road,  unless  they  were  articles  which  I 
needed,  and  then  have  paid  but  a  fair  price  for  them,  the  breach  of 
established  etiquette  notwithstanding.  A  quota  of  such  attentions 
may,  however,  be  regarded  as  the  foreigner's  police  taxes  in  Persia; 
and  the  general  respect,  freedom  and  security  which  they  procure 
for  him,  are  perhaps  a  full  equivalent  for  the  contribution  under 
which  they  lay  his  purse. 

Maragha  is  pleasantly  situated  about  ten  miles  from  the  lake,  at 
the  eastern  extremity  of  a  narrow  valley.  Near  the  lake,  in  the 
same  valley,  are  several  beautiful  villages,  one  of  which  is  Sheesha- 
wan,  a  favorite  residence  of  Malek  KaLsem  Meerza.  The  city  has 
the  common  sombre  appearance  of  Persian  cities.  Its  site  is  uneven, 
and  its  streets  and  avenues  are  very  irregular.  It  has  one  large  cara- 
vanserai, and  several  smaller  ones,  none  of  which  are  cleanly  or  in 
good  repair.    It  contains  eight  or  ten  baths,  one  of  which  is  very 


196 


HOOLAKOO  KHAN  TOMB  MARBLE. 


superior-  It  has  also  a  glass-manufactory.  Maragha  was  the  capi- 
ta] of  Hoolahoo  Khan,  the  emperor  who  overthrew  the  caliphs,  and 
tliere  his  tomb  is  still  standing.    Its  foundations  are  of  stone  and 

its  superstructure  of  brick,  about  forty  feet  high  and  twenty  wide,  ■ 

once  a  splendid  structure,  but  now  fast  yielding  to  neglect  and  de- 
cay. The  tomb  itself  is  even  used  as  a  stable,  and  the  tower  over 
it  as  a  dove-cote.  So  fades  the  memory  of  the  mighty  conqueror. 
How  different  were  iny  feelings,  while  standing  by  his  ashes,  from 
the  impressions  which  I  had  of  ever-enduring  and  brightening 
moral  grandeur,  as  well  as  of  military  and  political  glory,  on  visit- 
ing the  tomb  of  Washington  ! 

The  inhabitants  residing  near,  observed  us  taking  a  sketch  of  the 
tomb,  and  gathered  around  us,  with  hearts  palpitating  between  fear, 
indignation  and  joy,  some  supposing  us  Russians,  towards  whom  the 
mass  in  Persia  cherish  inveterate  hatred  ;  and  others  supposing  us 
Englishmen,  who  are  regarded  in  the  light  of  future  deliverers.  Our 
object,  on  our  first  arrival,  as  our  servant  afterward  told  us,  was 
Avhispered  around  as  political.  "  These  Frangees,  (Franks,)"  * 
said  the  people,  "  have  come  to  guage  the  city."  This  restless  ap- 
prehension is  the  natural  offspring  of  the  general  discontent  which 
arises  from  oppression,  and  prevails  throughout  the  country,  but 
which  we  always  endeavor  to  allay.  The  scarcely-distinguishable 
ruins  of  the  old  observatory,  erected  by  Hoolakoo,  on  a  mountain- 
top  near  the  city,  for  his  celebrated  astronomer,  Nasser-i-Din,  is  the 
only  other  object  of  interest  which  we  noticed  at  Maragha.  On  the 
western  brow  of  the  summit  on  which  was  the  observatory,  there  is, 
we  were  told,  a  remarkable  cave,  forty  or  fifty  feet  long  and  one- 
third  that  width,  hewn  out  of  a  solid  rock  ;  and  about  two  miles 
south-west  of  the  city  are  medicinal  springs.  Maragha  contains 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  Of  these,  all  are  Mil- 
hammedans  except  twenty  or  thirty  Armenian  families.  The 
plague  and  cholera,  in  1829 — 30,  made  terrible  ravages  there,  as 
well  as  in  other  parts  of  Persia. 

Oct.  27.  We  started  an  hour  before  day,  and  hardly  dismounted 
from  our  horses  until  evening  twilight,  when  we  reached  the  large 
village  of  Dehkhorgan,  ten  ftrsakhs  from  Maragha.  Our  road  led 
over  an  undulating  and  mountainous  country.  Our  course  was  first 
north-west,  about  thirty  miles,  where  we  came  quite  near  the  lake, 
and  there,  doubling  a  promontory,  the  road  bears  away  north-east, 
in  the  general  direction  of  Tabreez.  We  observed  several  more 
soda  springs,  boiling  up  from  small  orifices  in  the  road,  with  an  effer- 
vescence almost  as  vivid  and  perfect  as  can  be  produced  in  a  chem- 
ical laboratory.  Is  it  not  from  the  incrustations  of  the  overflowing 
water  of  these  fountains,  that  the  beautiful  Tabreez  marble  is 
formed  around  and  near  them  ?  We  passed  one  great  quarry,  with- 
in a  few  rods  of  a  spring,  from  which  vast  quantities  of  this  marble 


"  The  genera]  term,  applied  to  all  Europeans  and  Americans,  in  the  East. 


ENCOUNTER  EASTERN  SIDE  OF  THE  LAl^E. 


197 


have  been  taken.  This  quarry  is  but  a  little  above  the  level  of  the 
lake,  and  about  half  a  mile  distant  from  its  eastern  shore. 

In  one  of  the  villages  which  we  passed  to-day,  we  witnessed  an 
encounter  between  aKoordish  horseman  and  a  Persian.  The  Koord 
had  with  him  a  servant,  who,  like  himself,  was  well  mounted  and 
gorgeously  dressed.  In  their  native  loftiness,  the  servant  had  en- 
tered the  yard  of  the  Persian  lord  of  the  village,  without  first  ob- 
taining permission.  The  owner  uttered  harsh  words  alike  to  the 
servant  and  his  master ;  upon  which  the  latter  seized  a  fine  horse 
belonging  to  the  villager,  and  was  in  the  act  of  leading  him  off, 
when  we  rode  up.  Seeing  us,  the  Koord  desisted  from  his  purpose 
and  halted.  And  the  Persian,  frantic  with  anger  and  emboldened 
by  our  presence,  took  the  horse,  and  at  the  same  moment  a  huge 
club  from  the  hand  of  the  Koord,  and  laid  upon  his  back  tifteen  or 
twenty  blows  as  severely  as  he  could  apply,  with  both  hands.  The 
Koord  took  little  more  notice  of  the  flagellation  than  if  he  had  been 
a  block,  but  sat  quietly  upon  his  own  horse  until  the  Persian  was 
ready  to  return  him  his  cane  ;  and  then  he  pranced  away,  playfully 
brandishing  his  long  spear,  as  though  nothing  had  happened.  The 
Koord,  however,  will  remember  it,  and  wo  will  betide  the  Persian, 
when  he  happens  there  again,  unrestrained  by  the  presence  of  Eu- 
ropeans. 

Dehkhorgan,  the  village  where  we  stopped,  is  a  kind  of  metropo- 
lis of  a  district  of  the  same  name,  in  the  northern  part  of  the  prov- 
ince of  Maragha.  It  contains  about  three  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  better  deserves  the  name  of  town  thaii  village.  We  lodged  in  a 
new,  spacious  caravanserai;  and  nowhere  on  this  tour  did  I  see  in- 
dications of  thrift  and  enterprize,  to  equal  those  in  Dehkhorganj 
The  eastern  side  of  the  lake  is  in  general  far  less  regular  and  fertile 
than  the  western.  It  is,  however,  very  interesting  for  its  mineral 
treasures  and  geological  phenomena. 

Oct.  28.  We  again  started  early,  and  after  riding  about  three 
fursakhs  to  the  north,  between  the  mountain  and  the  lake,  we  enter- 
ed the  great  plain  of  Tabreez.  Five  fursakhs  more  in  a  north-east 
direction,  much  of  the  way  through  fertile  gardens,  brought  us  to 
the  city,  just  two  weeks  after  we  left  it.  We  found  our  families 
well, — Mrs.  P.  having  rapidly  improved  during  my  absence;  and 
our  hearts  warmed  with  gratitude  to  God,  while  we  sat  down  and 
recounted  his  tender  mercies  to  us  and  to  them,  during  every  hour 
of  our  separation. 

Nov.  1.  Our  Nestorian  friends,  the  bishop  and  priest,  on  our 
arrival,  took  a  room  in  my  house  and  seats  at  my  table.  They  were 
from  the  first  very  studious  to  keep  themselves  clean  and  to  con- 
form to  our  habits  and  regulations.  Though  they  had  never  be- 
fore sat  in  chairs  nor  used  knives  and  forks  at  their  meals,  they  be- 
gin to  use  both  to  very  good  advantage.*    They  had  never  heard 

*  As  I  was  revising  these  pages,  on  our  passage  home,  I  reminded  Mar 
Yohannan  of  his  commencement  of  using  knives  and  forks.    "  We  were  so 


198  THE  BISHOP  AND  PSIEST,  AS  LEARNERS. 


our  Style  oi  singing,  and  were  singularly  delighted — at  first  almost 
to  audible  laughter — with  this  part  of  our  devotions.  They  soon 
requested  me  to  teach  them  to  sing ;  so  I  repeated  to  them  a  verse 
of  an  Englisl)  hymn,  which  they  wrote  down  in  their  own  character, 
preserving  quite  accurately  the  sounds  and  the  metre,  and  were  in 
half  au  hour  able  to  sing  it  very  well.  The  verse  was  the  follow- 
ing: 

"  Look  up,  my  soul,  with  glad  surprise, 
Towards  the  jovful  corning  day, 
When  Jesus  shall  descend  the  skies, 
And  form  a  bright  and  glorious  day." 

May  such  a  day  dawn  upon  their  fallen  church,  no\V  sitting  in  the 
valley  and  shadow  of  spiritual  death  !    I  afterwards  gave  them  the 
meaning,  as  well  as  I  could  in  Turkish,  and  they  have  often  since 
repeated  it  with  great  apparent  satisfaction-    They  next  requested 
me  to  teach  them  our  devotions  at  the  table.    I  told  them  that  we 
were  not  limited  to  a  single  form.    "Teach  rue  then,"  said  the 
bishop,  "  all  the  forms  which  yon  use  in  one  week."    I  told  him 
that  we  were  not  limited  to  a  week,  but  that  our  devotions,  at  the 
table,  as  elsewhere,  are  varied  according  to  our  feelings,  wants  and 
circumstances.    "  Prepare  us  then  at  least  owe,"  said  the  bishop. 
So  I  gave  them  a  short  form,  which  they  wrote  down  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  verse  of  the  hymn,  and  they  now  repeat  it,  in  a  whis- 
per, at  the  commencement  of  every  meal.    At  the  close  of  the  meal, 
the  bishop  dismisses  the  table  with  a  service  in  his  own  language. 
The  Nestorians  are  accustomed  to  have  two  services  at  meals,  which 
they  perform  in  a  sitting  posture.    The  zeal  and  success  of  the 
bishop  and  the  priest  in  beginning  to  learn  English,  are  very 
gratifying.    The  latter  has  sterling  talents.    The  former  has  less, 
though  highly  respectable  abilities,  and  his  naturally  amiable  char- 
acter and  winning  manners  give  him  extensive  influence  among  his 
people.    In  many  things  they  appear  as  yet  truly  like  untutored 
children  of  nature.    Last  evening,  I  walked  out  with  Mrs.  Perkins, 
to  call  on  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nisbet,  and  they  accompanied  us.    As  we 
entered  the  street,  Mrs.  P.  as  usual,  took  my  arm,  on  observing 
which,  the  bishop  and  priest  instinctively  turned  their  faces  back- 
ward, covered  them  with  their  hands  and  broke  out  into  immoder- 
ate laughter,  so  novel  and  ludicrous — in  fact  almost  indecorous — 
was  the  scene  to  them. 

Though  my  actual  acquaintance  with  the  Nestorians  has  as  yet 
been  short,  my  interest  in  them  cannot  be  inconsiderable.  When 
I  think  of  the  universal  artlessness  and  friendliness  which  I  find 
among  the  people — of  the  character  and  history  of  the  Patriarch 
Elias,  whose  acquaintance  I  have  made — a  man  of  the  finest  talents, 

frightened  in  our  first  attempts,"  he  artlessly  replied,  "  that  we  often  left 
your  table  hungry,  fearing  that  we  should  drop  our  knives  and  forks,  or  com- 
luit  some  otlier  blunder." 


THE  PATRIARCH,  EUAS. 


199 


born  and  educated  a  Catholic,  yet  now  in  the  meridian  of  life  break- 
ing away  from  the  deadly  embrace  of  "  Holy  mother  church,"  and 
toiling  to  rescue  his  people  from  the  same  thraldom, — and  especially, 
when  1  see  before  me  a  bishop  and  priest  from  that  people,  young-, 
enterprising,  eager  for  learning,  and  among  the  most  docile  pupils 
I  ever  instructed,  I  cannot  but  regard  the  prospect  of  missionary 
usefulness,  among  the  Nestorians,  as  far  more  encouraging  than  I 
had  supposed  could  be  found  in  any  field  in  Asia.  1  deeply  feel, 
however,  that  success  in  the  work  is  all  of  the  Lord.  Though  we 
may  plant  and  water,  and  though  there  be  prospect  of  abundant 
harvest,  unless  He  "give  the  increase,"  we  shall  reap  nothing  but 
blasting  and  mildew.  And  standing  as  I  do  alone,  I  am  often  ready 
to  sink  under  the  responsibility  which  my  work  imposes,  until  I 
find  relief  in  rolling  my  care  upon  an  Almighty  arm. 

If  the  reader  has  sympathized  much  with  the  writer,  he  feels  suf- 
ficient interest  in  the  Patriarch  Elias,  to  desire  to  know  more  of 
him.  His  subsequent  experience  has  been  a  very  trying  one.  He 
persevered  in  his  efforts  to  recover  the  Chaldeans,  (Catholic  Nes- 
torians,) back  to  the  Nestorian  fold,  with  very  commendable  zeal, 
in  the  face  of  opposition  and  persecution,  several  years.  But  when 
the  Koordish  beg  of  Ravendooz  overran  the  region  of  Elkoosh,  the 
Papists,  who  are  the  predominant  christian  sect  there,  instigated  the 
Koordish  beg  to  imprison  Mar  Elias,  and  farther  oppress  him,  un- 
til, apprehending  that  he  might  lose  his  life,  and  unable  longer  to 
stem  the  torrent,  he  recanted  his  conversion  to  the  Nestorian  faith, 
and  renounced  his  patriarchal  and  episcopal  claims,  as  the  purchase 
of  his  freedom.  It  was  a  severe  ordeal,  and  unsupported  probably 
by  real  piety,  it  is  not  strange  that  he  should  yield.  But  few  of  the 
Nestorians  of  Oroomiah.  had  formally  transferred  their  ecclesiastical 
relation  from  Mar  Shimon  to  Mar  Elias,  and  those  who  had  done 
so,  returned  to  the  former  on  this  event  being  known,  so  that  none 
in  that  province  were  affected  by  Mar  Elias's  recantation.  It  is 
said  also  that  a  considerable  number  of  his  converts,  in  the  rerrion 
of  Elkoosh,  not  bemg  subjected  to  the  severe  persecution  which  be- 
fel  their  Patriarch,  still  remain  attached  to  the  Nestorian  church. 
And  it  is  a  circumstance  of  deep  interest  and  great  encouragement, 
that  the  mass  of  the  Chaldeans,  or  Papal  converts  from  the  Nesto- 
rians, on  the  western  side  of  the  Koordish  mountains,  having  been 
reluctantly  drawn  away  from  the  fold  of  their  fathers  by  compulso- 
ry means,  are  changed,  not  m  fact,  but  only  in  name.  Says  the  Rev, 
H.  Southgate,  who  has  visited  that  people,  "  Upon  the  whole  then, 
it  appears  that  the  conversion  of  the  Nestorian  church  to  Roman- 
ism does  not  imply  an  understanding  reception  of  the  peculiar  rites 
and  usages  of  the  Papal  church.  In  the  multitude  of  cases,  it  is 
not  founded  upon  an  intelligent  assent.  It  has  not  imbued  the 
Chaldeans  with  a  narrow  and  bigoted  spirit  against  European  Pro- 
testants.   It  has  not  subverted  the  foundations  of  their  church."* 


*  Tour  through  Armenia,  etc.  Vol.  II.  p.  2.'^7. 


200 


DEATH  OF  THE  KING  COMMOTIONS. 


These  Chaldeans  then  need  only  the  helping  hand  of  Protestant 
missionaries,  who  are  already  among  them,  to  be  led  back  to  the 
enclosure  from  which  they  have  been  driven  astray.  And  with  such 
encouragement  and  aid,  among  the  earliest  to  return,  we  trust,  will 
be  the  unfortunate  Mar  Elias. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

RESIDENCE  AT  TABREEZ. 

Allusion  has  repeatedly  been  made  to  the  advanced  age  of  the 
king,  the  precarious  state  of  his  health,  and  the  general  apprehen- 
sion that  his  death  was  near  at  hand.  Yesterday,  Nov.  5th,  intelli- 
gence of  the  death  of  Feth  Ali  Shah,  reached  Tabreez.  The  same 
arrival  reported  also  that  a  prince,  resident  in  Tehran,  has  got  pos- 
session of  the  royal  treasury  and  the  throne.  It  was  most  fortunate 
for  me — rather  it  was  a  very  merciful  arrangement  of  Providence — 
that  I  made  my  journey  to  Oroomiah  and  reached  home,  in  time  to 
escape  the  fury  of  the  pending  storm.  The  intelligence  of  the 
king's  death  is  like  unchaining  tigers,  all  over  the  country.  In 
some  parts,  as  we  already  hear,  there  is  general  anarchy ;  and  in 
others,  robbery,  murder  and  other  cold-blooded  atrocities  are  com- 
mitted. There  is  much  greater  quiet  in  Tabreez  than  in  any  other 
place  in  Persia,  owing  to  its  superior  civilization;  but  even  here, 
we  are  every  hour  apprehending  commotion. 

Nov.  8.  Prince  Muhammed  Meerza,  the  lawful  successor,  is 
making  preparation,  with  all  possible  speed,  to  set  off  for  Tehran. 
He  is,  however,  singularly  in  the  back  ground,  as  most  of  his  troops 
are  beyond  Khoy,  a  hundred  miles  in  the  opposite  direction,  not  yet 
having  returned  from  the  Koordish  war.  The  gentlemen  of  the 
English  embassy,  as  well  as  the  military  detachment,  are  all  to  ac- 
company the  young  king  to  Tehran;  and  if  the  government  be- 
comes settled,  they  will  henceforth  reside  in  that  city.  We  are 
therefore  likely  to  be  left  with  no  English  resident  in  this  part  of 
Persia,  except  Mr.  Nisbet,  the  commissary,  who  may  also  remove  to 
Tehran,  as  soon  as  the  stores  of  the  arsenal  can  be  safely  transport- 
ed. But  here  again  the  good  hand  of  the  Lord  is  to  be  acknow- 
ledged. We  were  permitted  to  reach  Tabreez  in  season  to  make 
the  acquaintance  of  these  English  friends — particularly  of  the  Am- 
bassador, which,  from  the  great  kindness  of  his  character,  and  his 
interest  in  our  work,  cannot  but  continue  to  prove  invaluable  to  us 
and  our  mission.  He  has  made  all  possible  provision  for  our  secu- 
rity, before  leaving  this  city.    He  kindly  invited  us  to  occupy  his 


YOUNG  king's  accession  TO  THE  THRONE. 


201 


own  residence,  which  is  considered  the  safest  place  in  Tabreez; 
enjoined  on  us  to  remove  immediately  into  it,  in  the  event  of  any 
indication  of  special  danger.  He  has  also  left  with  me  letters  of 
particular  commendation  to  the  governor,  whoever  shall  succeed  to 
that  office,  and  charged  me  always  to  apply  to  him,  with  the  utmost 
freedom,  for  any  needed  assistance.  We  very  naturally  feel,  how- 
ever, that  oar  trust  must  not  be  in  any  arm  of  flesh,  but  in  the  living 
God.  And  under  the  banner  of  his  protection,  we  hope  to  be  per- 
mitted, in  quiet  security,  to  prosecute  the  work  for  which  we  have 
come  to  this  troubled,  benighted  land. 

Jan.  1,  1835.  Our  Nestorian  ecclesiastics  are  still  learning  well 
and  doing  well.  They  are  now  able  to  read  and  sing  with  us,  in 
English,  at  our  family  devotions.  I  feel  deeply  the  weight  of  res- 
ponsibility that  devolves  upon  me  by  having  them  with  us.  The 
future  prosperity  of  our  mission  will,  doubtless,  be  much  affected 
by  the  impressions  which  they  receive,  the  present  year.  Yester- 
day, we  had  a  new  token  of  the  friendliness  of  the  Nestorians.  An 
old  rnan  arrived,  bringing  a  horse-load  of  butter,  cheese  and  raisins 
to  us  from  the  friends  of  the  bishop  and  priest.  In  Persia,  however, 
as  in  other  Eastern  countries,  we  can  depend  little  on  the  per  manairy 
of  friendship.  Still  it  were  ingratitude  to  God  not  to  acknowledge 
his  goodness,  in  permitting  us  to  enjoy  such  encouraging  prospects. 
There  is  something  deeply  interesting,  at  the  commeiicement  of  our 
labors,  in  being  permitted  to  kneel  daily  in  prayer  with  a  Nestorian 
bishop. 

Jan.  2.  The  prospect  now  is,  that  the  government  will  soon  be 
much  more  happily  settled  than  all  had  apprehended.  This  morning 
I  received  a  letter  from  Dr.  Riach,  physician,  and  now  first  secre- 
tary, of  the  English  embassy,  at  Tehran,  respecting  the  present  as- 
pect of  political  affairs.  The  letter  is  under  date  of  Dec.  22, 
1834 ;  and  the  extracts  which  follow  will  give  the  reader  a  better 
idea  than  I  can  otherwise  impart,  of  the  circumstances  that  attend- 
ed the  young  king's  accession  to  the  throne. 

"We  have  all  great  reason  to  be  thankful  for  the  really  almost 
spring-weather  with  which  we  have  been  favored,  since  leaving  Ta- 
breez. Although  we  had  some  rain  and  a  little  snow,  still,  I  be- 
lieve that  such  another  mild  season  at  this  period  of  the  year  is 
scarcely  recollected.  Few  of  our  large  party  of  English  and  Rus- 
sians have  been  at  all  sick ;  and  I  myself  with  Sir  John  and  all  our 
mission,  have  enjoyed  really  excellent  health.  We  yesterday  enter- 
ed this  city,  [Tehran,]  after  having  accompanied  the  young  king 
to  his  palace  in  the  Nagaristan,  [a  celebrated  garden,]  near  the 
town,  (where  he  must  wait  till  the  stars  be  propitious  for  his 
coming  into  town,)  where  he  sat  upon  the  smaller  enamelled 
throne,  with  the  royal  amulets  on,  and  the  diamond  plume,  or  Jik- 
Jcd,  in  his  cap,  and  in  fact  where  he  ascended  the  throne ;  although 
the  great  public-day  of  the  Jaloos,  (coronation,)  will  not  take  place 
for  soibe  little  time  yet,  I  know  not  how  long. 

26 


202 


SURRENDER  OF  RIVALS. 


"After  leaving  Azerbijan,  the  progress  of  his  Majesty  has  been 
like  a  triumphant  march.  For,  those  princes  who  left  Tehran  as 
servants  of  the  pretender — the  Zillah  Sultan — ^joined  our  camp, 
then  came  the  heads  of  the  Eeliat  tribes,  who  had  either  received 
money  from  Adil  Shah,*  (as  the  Zillah  called  himself,  when  he  was 
crowned,  only  thirtT/siz  dnys  ago,)  or  had  remained  neuter.  About 
fifty  miles  from  this,  prince  Verdet  Meerza,  who  commanded  his 
brother,  the  Zillah's  forces,  sent  to  oppose  us,  came  even  and  gave 
in  his  adherence  to  his  Majesty,  (almost  the  whole  of  his  chiefs  and 
captains  having  before  joined  us,)  and  the  same  night,  all  the  artil- 
lery and  about  one  thousand  horse  came  over  to  Sir  Henry  Bethune's 
camp.  Next  day,  information  was  received  of  the  seizure  in  Teh- 
ran of  the  Zillah  Sultan  and  his  minister  ;  and  the  same  day,  twelve 
guns,  two  hundred  camel-artilleryt  and  a  number  of  horse,  with 
some  princes,  all  sent  to  oppose  us,  joined  the  Shah. 

"  The  business,  so  far  as  getting  possession  of  the  capital  was 
concerned,  was  thus  finished,  without  a  single  person  being  put  to 
death,  or  a  shot  fired.  And  could  we  judge  of  the  devotion  of  the 
people  here  to  the  young  Shah,  by  the  numbers  of  camels,  bullocks 
and  sheep  slaughtered,  [to  be  cast  in  the  path  before  him,]  by  the 
quantities  of  sugar  presented  to  him  on  the  road,  and  by  the  crowds 
of  prostrate  slaves  [subjects]  kissing  the  earth  before  him,  we  should 
think  that  never  was  there  so  beloved  a  king  before.  The  fact  is, 
that  the  people  here,  as  in  Tabreez,  like  the  king  personally.  They 
admire  his  good  moral  character,  and  are  pleased  with  his  plain, 
honest  demeanor,  etc.,  but  they  fear  his  minister,  the  Kaim-Makam, 
and  also  the  Asoufd  Douldh  (uncle  to  the  king,)  who  is  certain  to 
be  a  candidate  for  the  premiership  and  an  opponent  of  the  Kaim- 
Makam. 

"  I  am  really  astonished  to  find  ourselves  in  Tehran,  with  so  little 
trouble.  And  as  the  Zillah  Sultan,  although  he  has  spent,  it  is  said, 
700,000  tfimans,  [$1,700,500,]  has  not  dissipated  the  treasury  of  the 
late  Shah,  we  are  all  in  hopes  that  the  young  king  will  now joaj/  his 
troops,  and  put  his  military  establishment  on  a  proper  footing.  The 
princes  of  Shiraz,  Mazanderan  and  Kerwan,  have  not  yet  sent  in 
their  allegiance,  and  it  is  said  that  the  two  former  have  declared 
themselves  kings.  But  we  do  not  anticipate  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
in  getting  Shiraz,  so  that  Mazanderan  is  now  the  only  province  from 
which  we  anticipate  annoyance ;  although  I  myself  think  that  no 
real  difficulty  will  present  itself  to  the  settlement  of  the  whole  coun- 
try. The  Zillah  Sultan,  (the  usurper,)  is  still  in  confinement, 
and  has  not  yet  seen  the  king ;  and  what  will  be  done  with  him,  I 
know  not,  though  I  expect  to  hear  that  he  is  kindly  and  perhaps 
honorably  treated  ;  for  the  king  is  a  kind-hearted  man,  and  will  not 


*  The  just  king. 

t  This  is  a  small  species  of  ordnance,  mounted  on  the  back  of  a  camel,  the 
animal  being  taught  to  kneel  down  and  remain  quiet  -while  the  cannon  is 
discharged. 


rOREIGN  INTLUENCE  AND  AID. 


203 


be  easily  brought  to  punish  his  father's  own  brother.  The  money 
this  prince  has  spent  is  said  to  have  been  taken  from  some  of  the 
queens,  and  not  from  the  royal  treasury.  Nothing  is  yet  known  of 
our  future  movements." 

The  appointment  of  the  young  king,  as  successor  to  the  Persian 
throne,  had  been  ratified  and  sustained,  by  the  Englisli  and  Russian 
ambassadors.  And  under  tlie  wing  of  their  protection,  and  of  a  de- 
tachment of  English  military  officers,  at  the  head  of  his  troops,  he 
marched  from  Tabreez  to  Tehran.  And  it  is  entirely  owing  to  this 
European  influence,  which  is  a  great  terror  to  the  Persians,  as  well 
as  to  all  other  Asiatics,  that  Muhamraied  Shah  has  found  it  so  easy 
a  matter  to  secure  the  throne.  It  may  more  strictly  be  said  to  have 
been  chiefly  owing  to  Sir  John  Campbell,  the  English  ambassador, 
and  to  general  Lindsley, — alias,  Sir  Henry  Bethune, — the  English 
officer  who  was  wisely  and  fortunately  placed  by  the  king  at  the  head 
of  his  army,  that  the  succession  has  been  so  prosperously  effected. 
The  ambassador  and  the  general  have,  in  effect,  taken  up  his  Majesty 
like  a  helpless  infant,  and  placed  him  upon  his  throne, — the  former 
by  his  counsel  and  general  influence,  and  by  advancing  money  to  re- 
lieve, quiet  and  encourage  the  discontented  troops,  who  took  advan- 
tage of  the  emergency  to  demur,  proclaim  their  grievances  in  having 
been  so  long  defrauded  of  their  pay,  and  threaten  to  disperse  to  their 
hungry  families, — and  the  general,  by  inspiriting  them  by  his  own 
activity  and  energy,  and  still  more  by  the  terror  of  his  name.  The 
Persians  are  much  influenced  by  appearances.  General  Lindsley 
is  remarkably  imposing  in  his  person,  being,  I  should  judge,  from 
six  and  a  half  to  seven  feet  high  and  very  well  proportioned.  He 
had,  moreover,  been  previously  known  in  the  country  as  a  distin- 
guished military  officer,  and  had  even  acquired  the  reputation  of 
being  well  nigh  able,  single-handed,  to  combat  whole  armies,  like 
Roostam,  the  Persians'  fabled  giant.  It  is  the  less  strange,  there- 
fore, that  the  king,  with  this  general  at  the  head  of  his  troops  and. 
the  English  and  Russian  ambassadors  at  his  side,  should,  long  be- 
fore he  reached  his  capital,  cause  most  of  the  rival  princes  thus  to 
send  in,  some  their  armies  and  others  deputies,  to  make  a  formal 
surrender,  acknowledge  him  as  their  sovereign,  and  implore  mercy 
and  pardon.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  Shah  will  requite  his  Eng- 
lish benefactors  and  the  government  they  represent,  with  at  least  a 
return  of  gratitude.* 

*  It  is  now  generally  understood,  that  this  hope  has  Leen  sadly  disap- 
pointed. My  own  impression,  however,  is,  that  the  disappointment  is  more 
owing  to  the  king's  fear  of  offending  the  Russian  government,  and  the  coun- 
sels of  a  bad  minister,  than  flagrant  treachery  on  his  part.  So  ungrateful  was 
the  then  acting  minister,  that  it  is  said  he  even  instigated  the  Persian  mer- 
chants to  charge  a  very  high  rate  of  interest  to  the  English  ambassador, 
On  the  money  which  the  latter  borrowed  of  them  to  advance  to  tlie  troops  and 
thus  relieve  both  the  minister  and  his  royal  master,  in  tlieir  imbecility  and 
embarrassment.  And  this  would  be  but  a  fair  sample  of  the  ingratitude  of 
Persian  character  in  general. 


204  B  ERE  ATEMENT  ASTROLOGY  CRITELTY. 


Jan.  20.  Yesterday  we  committed  to  the  grave  our  infant  daugh- 
ter. She  died  after  a  sickness  of  only  three  days, — a  kind  of  lung- 
fever,  which  is  making  great  ravages  among  the  native  children 
here  at  the  present  time.  Ic  would  have  been  an  unspeakable  com- 
fort and  relief  to  iis  to  have  had  an  American  physician  with  us,  in 
the  sickness  of  this  child  ;  but  Providence  ordered  otherwise,  and 
it  is  our  privilege  no  less  than  our  duty,  submissively  to  acquiesce. 
The  English  physicians  were  at  Tehran,  a  distance  of  four  hundred 
miles  from  us.  The  Nestorian  bishop  and  priest  sympathize  deeply 
with  us,  in  the  death  of  our  babe,  to  which  they  had  become  much 
attached.  And  I  hope  that  they,  as  well  as  ourselves,  may  be  bene- 
fitted by  the  afflictive  bereavement. 

Jan.  23.  The  latest  intelligence  from  Tehran  ia,  that  the  young 
king  is  in  the  city,  but  not  as  yet  on  his  throne.  He  was  still  ap- 
prehensive that  the  propitious  hour  for  his  public  coronation  had 
not  come.  Astrology,  in  Persia,  is  in  all  the  pristine  vigor  of 
the  days  of  the  Magi.  Not  only  august  occasions  must  be  con- 
trolled by  the  movement  of  the  stars,  but  also  events  of  minor  and 
even  trivial  importance.*  A  traveller,  for  instance,  must  com- 
mence his  journey  and  complete  it  at  the  precise  hour  and  minute 
prescribed  by  the  astrologer.  On  returning,  he  usually  halts  at 
some  distance  from  his  home  and  sends  forward  a  servant  to  con- 
sult the  astrologer  and  ascertain  the  golden  moment.  The  same 
system  runs  more  or  less  into  all  the  common  concerns  and  occu- 
pations of  life,  and  thus  becomes  at  once  a  very  important  and  lu- 
crative profession.  It  must  of  course  possess  enough  of  mystery  to 
maintain  its  power  and  satisfy  the  Persian  relish  for  mysticism. 

The  astrologers  have  long  been  clamorous  with  their  forebodings 
respecting  the  present  king.  Some  predict  that  his  reign  will  not 
continue  more  than  a  few  months,  when  he  will  be  superseded  by 
an  uncle, — ^a  prediction  requiring,  to  be  sure,  no  very  miraculous 
foresight  to  suggest  it,  in  the  general  aspect  of  affairs  as  presented 
for  some  time  past,  even  to  the  vulgar  gaze  in  Persia.  But  it  has 
made  the  king  very  cautious,  and  led  him  to  the  commission  of 
some  acts  of  cruelty.  One  prince — the  king's  own  brother — i.  e.  by 
the  same  mother,  who  was  suspected  as  a  rival,  has  already  lost  his 
eyes,  and  many  others  may  lose  their  heads.  These  occurrences, 
so  shocking  to  us,  are  in  Persia  so  common,  that  they  are  men- 
tioned by  the  people  as  circumstances  hardly  to  be  regretted.  How 
common  is  the  practice  of  putting  out  the  eyes  of  suspected  rivals 
in  this  country,  will  appear  from  an  anecdote  related  to  me  by  lady 
McNeill,  when  we  met  her  with  lady  Campbell  at  Erzroom.  Lady 
M.  visited,  by  invitation,  the  royal  harem.    A  number  of  young 


*  A  fine  boy  in  our  Muhainmodan  school,  on  one  occasion,  stopped  ab- 
ruptly, in  the  midst  of  his  recitation,  inquired  the  time  and  begged  to  be  e.t- 
cused  to  go  immediately  to  a  tailor;  for  he  was  then  to  have  a  garment  cut, 
and  his  stars  would  not  be  propitious,  were  it  cut  at  any  other  titne. 


PRINTING  EXPLANATION  OF  THE  PARABLES.  205 


pfinces  were  at  play  in  the  apartment  of  their  mothers,  hlindfoldcd. 
Lady  M.  inquired  why  the  children  were  thus  blindfolded;  and  their 
mothers  composedly  replied,  that  they  were  merely  practising  to  ac- 
quire dexterity,  that,  in  case  their  eyes  should  l)e  put  out  when  they 
became  men,  they  might  be  able  to  walk  about  and  be  the  less  de- 
pendent, in  consequence  of  this  early  training!  What  would  we 
give  for  royal  birth,  in  such  a  country,  whatever  be  its  value  else- 
where ?  A  heated  iron  rod,  or  spit,  is  the  instrument  by  which 
sight,  in  such  cases,  is  extinguished. 

Feb.  25.  I  learn  that  the  Persians  are  not  entire  strangers  to  the 
art  of  printing.  A  press  which  operated  at  Tabreez  for  several 
years,  printing  the  Koran,  was  sometime  ago  transferred  to  Tehran. 
A  lithographic  press  is  now  in  use,  in  this  city,  and  books  are  bound 
here  very  well.  The  owner  of  this  press  was  once  ambassador  to 
England,  and  speaks  our  language.  Several  months  since,  he  in- 
vited the  Rev.  Wm.  Glen,  of  the  Scottish  Missionary  Society,  then  at 
Astrakhan,  to  remove  to  Tabreez,  presenting  as  an  inducement,  the 
reasonable  rate  at  which  he  would  print  christian  books.  His  object 
was,  doubtless,  mercenary;  but  all  this  shows  that  the  light  of  Eu- 
rope is  fast  breaking  in  upon  Persia. 

JTcb.  26.  To-day  I  read  with  the  bishop  and  priest  the  parable 
of  the  prodigal  son,  and  the  bishop  proceeded  to  comment  upon  it. 
The  elder  brother,  he  said,  represents  the  early  believers,  as  Abra- 
ham, Isaac  and  Jacob, — the  same  as  are  referred  to  in  the  parable 
of  the  laborers, — those  who  entered  the  vineyard  in  the  morning  of 
the  day.  The  younger  son  might,  in  general,  he  said,  represent  all 
believers,  inasmuch  as  all  wander  from  God  and  must  return  with 
the  penitence  of  the  prodigal;  but  that  he  (the  younger  son)  par- 
ticularly represents  such  as  enter  the  kingdom  of  heaven  at  the 
eleventh  hour,  as  the  thief  on  the  cross.  But  this  parable  must  be 
still  farther  applied  and  spiritualized.  So  he  proceeded  to  what  he 
styled  a  more  exact  interpretation.  The  fatted  calf  was  the  body 
of  Christ;  the  ring  for  the  prodigal's  hand  was  baptism  ;  and  the 
shoes  for  his  feet  were  gospel  truth  and  instruction.  This  is  but  a 
specimen  of  the  minuteness  with  which  my  learned  teachers  are 
able  to  explain  the  parables. 

March  16.  The  bishop  has  repeatedly  expressed  a  strong  desire 
to  go  to  America  and  study  there.  He  conceived  the  idea  of  his 
own  accord.  I  have  never  as  yet  given  him  the  least  encourage- 
ment on  the  subject.  He  and  the  priest  are  every  day  becoming 
more  interested  in  their  studies,  and  their  general  improvement  gives 
me  increasing  encouragement.  It  is  not  their  present  goodness, 
however,  nor  that  of  their  nation,  but  the  broad,  open  door  of  access 
to  them,  which  is  the  ground  of  our  hope.  They  are,  as  a  people, 
very  degraded  ;  and  even  the  best  of  them  are  morallt/  as  weak  as 
infants,  and  must  be  treated  with  great  patience  and  forbearance, 
"  as  a  nurse  cherisheth  her  children."  But  their  reverence  for  the 
Bible  gives  us  a  glorious  field  of  common  ground ;  and  their  strong 


206 


LETTER  or  THE  BISHOP  AND  PRIEST. 


desire  for  improvement,  of  which  we  have  the  most  satisfactory  to- 
kens, renders  it  doubly  interesting  to  meet  them  on  this  common 
ground. 

The  following  letter  to  Mr.  Dwight  of  Constantinople,  who  visit- 
ed Oroomiah  with  xMr.  Smith,  was  lately  prepared  by  the  bishop 
and  priest  entirely  of  their  own  accord  in  their  own  language. 
They  then  requested  me  to  assist  them  in  making  a  translation  of 
it  into  English,  that  Mr.  Dwight  might  be  able  to  read  it,  and  from 
that  translation,  thty  transcribed  a  copy  in  English,  and  sent  both 
the  original  and  their  copy  to  Mr.  Dwight. 

"  In  the  name  of  God: 
The  mercy  of  God,  the  love  of  Christ,  and  that  peace  which  he 
gave  his  disciples,  after  the  resurrection,  be  with  you,  as  the  salu- 
tation of  Khalapha,  Mar  Yohannan,  bishop,  and  of  priest  Abraham. 

Your  love  for  us  and  your  desire  for  the  salvation  of  our  people 
is  reciprocated  by  us.  We  pray  for  you,  thou  blessed  of  the  Lord, 
who  art  built  on  the  firm  foundation  of  apostles  and  prophets,  and 
truly  justified  by  Christ, — you  who  walk  in  that  way  which  God 
has  appointed  from  eternity.  May  God  strengthen  you  to  stand  fast 
in  that  path,  and  may  Christ  save  you  from  every  contamination  of 
sin.  May  He  keep  you  from  all  the  snares  of  the  devil  and  shield 
you  from  all  his  temptations,  and  save  you  from  all  offenders  and 
grant  you  an  answer  to  all  your  holy  desires  and  the  most  perfect 
fruition.  May  the  Almighty  exalt  your  family,  your  sons  and  daugh- 
ters, as  the  king  of  Egypt  exalted  Joseph ;  yea,  may  he  cause  you 
to  be  approved  and  loved  of  all  men  who  see  and  know  you.  But 
especially,  may  the  Almighty  bless  you  with  that  blessing  which  he 
granted  unto  the  disciple  Ananias,  at  Damascus,  on  the  converted 
Paul, — i.  e.  may  he  give  you  success,  that  many  who  are  blind 
(spiritually)  may  receive  their  sight  at  your  hand. 

To  this  end,  may  the  Almighty  God  bless  you,  with  the  blessing 
of  Jacob  and  his  sons.  May  he  be  your  God,  as  he  was  the  God  of 
Abraham,  Isaac  and  Jacob;  and  may  the  Holy  Ghost  come  upon 
you,  as  He  came  upon  the  disciples,  on  the  first  Fast  of  Pentecost. 

We  desire  much  to  see  you  ;  but  we  are  too  far  distant  from  each 
other.  In  the  spirit  of  love,  however,  we  remember  and  see  you  al- 
ways. Christ  says,  in  the  gospel,  where  two  or  three  are  gathered 
together  in  my  name,  there  am  I  in  the  midst.  May  the  Lord  dwell 
with  us  by  his  love,  that  we  may  love  and  esteem  one  another. 

If  you  esteem  us;  send  us  also,  if  you  please,  a  letter,  that  we 
may  know  how  you  are  and  how  you  do.  We  are  at  present  at  the 
city  of  Tabreez,  with  Mr.  Perkins.  And  if  you  would  like  to  know 
what  we  do  here,  the  answer  is,  that  we  study  English,  and  Mr. 
Perkins  studies  Syriac.  If  you  would  like  to  know  more  particu- 
larly how  Mr.  Perkins  treats  us,  we  would  assure  you,  that  we  love 
him  as  God  loved  the  patriarchs  and  Christ  the  apostles.  May  the 
Almighty  shield  him  and  his  beloved  household  from  all  evil.  Our 


TESTIVAL  OV  NOO-ROSE. 


207 


fathers  and  mothers  and  brothers  and  sisters  are  pleased  with  our 
living  with  Mr.  Perkins.  And  our  nation  are  very  glad  that  he  has 
come  here  to  instruct  us  and  teach  us  the  way  of  salvatioii.  We 
all  esteem  him  as  a  gift  from  heaven ;  and  we  pray  for  you,  your 
people  and  your  king. 

They  that  have  understanding  look  to  the  future  world,  but  fools 
think  only  of  the  present.    A  word  is  enough  for  the  wise.  Amen. 

May  you  be  blessed  and  joyful,  as  Abraham  was  joyful  for  his 
son  restored,  and  the  disciples  for  the  resurrection  of  Christ.  May 
your  name  be  known  in  many  countries,  as  the  disciples,  after  re- 
ceiving the  Holy  Ghost,  went  forth  into  all  the  world. 

With  these  wishes,  receive  our  salutation  in  Christ,  now  and  for- 
ever, Amen. 

Written  at  Tabreez,  on  the  5th  day  of  the  month  of  Ishwat, 
{\Qth  of  Feb.)  and  in  the  year  2146  [of  the  Seleucidae).* 

(Signed)  Mar  Yohannan,  Bishop, 

Kasha  Abraham,  Priest." 

March  22.  Sabbath.  To-day  the  Persian  festival  of  Noo-rosc, 
(new  year,  literally,  new  day,)  commenced.  The  whole  city  was 
in  an  uproar.  The  English  gentlemen,  who  are  in  town,  went  to 
pay  their  congratulations  to  the  Prince,  and  even  the  Nestorian  ec- 
clesiastics were  drawn  away  by  the  current  of  festivity  and  curiosity ; 
and  I  was  thus  left  with  only  Mrs.  Perkins  and  Mrs.  Nisbet  as  hear- 
ers, at  our  religious  service.  Noo-rose  is  not  a  Muhammedan  festi- 
val, but  is  the  only  national  one  that  has  come  down  from  the  ancient 
Persians.!  It  occurs  at  the  time  of  the  vernal  equinox,  is  the  com- 
mencement of  the  civil  year,  and  a  joyous  festival  among  all  classes.  J 

April  1.  Intelligence  reached  Tabreez,  of  the  capture  of  Shiraz, 
by  the  king's  forces,  under  Sir  Henry  Bethune.    A  rival  prince 

*  This  is  the  era  commonly  used  by  the  Nestorlana. 

t  Jemsh6d,  the  celebrated  founder  of  Persepolis,  whose  ruins  to  this  day- 
are  called,  Takt-i-Jemshid,  is  reputed  to  have  introduced  the  solar  year  and  in- 
stituted this  festival. 

X  It  is  the  custom  for  the  king  to  march  out  of  his  capital  on  Noo-rose,  at- 
tended by  his  ministers,  nobles  and  as  many  of  his  army  as  can  be  assembled. 
The  ceremonies  of  the  day  commence  with  a  review  ;  and  then  the  tribute 
and  presents  of  all  the  ruli»rs  and  governors  of  different  provinces  are  laid  at 
the  foot  of  the  throne,  which  is  placed  in  a  magnificent  tent  pitched  for  tlie 
purpose  in  an  open  plain.  The  king  remains  in  camp  several  days  which 
are  passed  in  joy  and  festivity.  Horse-races  are  among  the  amusements, — 
and  the  monarch,  whose  favorite  horses  generally  win,  gives  presents  to  the 
fortunate  riders;  he  also  confers  dresses  of  honor  on  all  the  chief  nobles  and 
officers  of  his  government;  who  give  similar  marks  of  their  regard  to  their 
servants  and  dependants.  This  feast  is  kept  with  equal  demonstrations  of 
joy  in  every  part  of  the  kingdom.  It  continues  nearly  a  week  ;  but  the  first 
day  is  the  mo.st  important.  On  this,  all  ranks  appear  in  their  newest  apparel ; 
they  send  presents  of  sweet-meats  to  each  otlier ;  and  every  man  kisses  his 
friend,  on  the  auspicious  morning  of  Noo-rose." — Malcolm's  Hist.  Vol.  II. 
p.  405. 


208 


TRANSPORTING  THE  DEAD. 


had  attempted  to  establish  himself  in  that  city,  as  king  of  Persia. 
Nothing  now  remains  to  be  done,  to  leave  Muhammed  Shah  in 
quiet  possession  of  his  throne.  The  Lord  has  thus  been  far  more 
gracious  to  us  and  to  Persia  in  the  event  of  tliis  succession,  than 
our  fears,  and  has  furnished  us  new  motives  to  trust  in  him. 

April  2.  Our  Nestorian  bishop  and  priest  started,  to-day,  for 
Oroomiah  to  visit  their  friends.  They  had  studied  nearly  six  months 
very  well,  and  I  am  quite  willing  to  give  them  a  month  of  vacation, 
alike  to  gratify  them  and  their  friends  and  for  my  own  relaxation. 

April  4.  As  I  walked  out  by  the  side  of  the  city  wall,  I  observed 
about  a  dozen  corpses,  starting  off  for  Kerbula,  the  hallowed  cemetery 
situated  near  Bagdad,  many  hundred  miles  from  Tabreez.  They 
were  in  long  narrow  boxes  and  slung  up,  two  upon  a  horse — one  on 
each  side — and  hurried  along  as  carelessly  as  though  they  had  been 
loads  of  merchandize.  One  of  my  English  acquaintances,  when 
travelling,  put  up  for  the  night  on  one  occasion,  at  a  caravanserai ; 
and  on  seeing  a  pile  of  oblong  boxes  lying  near  him,  he  directed  his 
servant  to  adjust  two  or  three  and  spread  his  bed  upon  them;  and 
thus  would  he  have  slept,  during  the  night,  upon  the  sleeping  dead, 
had  not  the  odor  of  dust  returnins;  to  dust  given  him  seasonable  in- 
timation  of  the  contents  of  the  boxes.  All  who  are  interred  at  Ker- 
bula are  supposed  to  be  entitled  to  exalted  seats  in  paradise.  The 
poor  cannot  often  secure  the  privilege,  as  a  considerable  sum  of  mo- 
ney is  requisite  to  purchase  it,  as  well  as  to  defray  the  expenses  of 
transportation. 

April  11.  I  dined  with  Malek  Kasem  Meerza,  the  prince  whom 
we  had  meet  at  Siildooz,  on  our  return  from  Oroomiah.  He  is 
very  fond  of  European  society  and  spreads  his  table  in  European 
style.  He  is  one  of  the  finest  looking  men  that  I  have  seen  in  Per- 
sia or  any  other  country. 

April  15.  Two  Italian  play-actors  performed  in  the  public 
court  of  the  palace,  in  celebration  of  the  marriage  of  several  young 
princes.  The  Persians  are  not  very  fond  of  such  entertainments. 
A  German  ventriloquist  was  here,  not  long  ago,  and  the  people 
ascribed  his  performances  to  the  direct  agency  of  the  devil  and 
treated  him  with  corresponding  abhorrence.  This  evening,  there 
was  a  very  splendid  display  of  fire-works,  as  a  part  of  the  marriage 
celebration.  The  Persians  are  very  skilful  in  the  preparation  of 
fire-works,  having  learned  the  art  of  the  English. 

lu  riding  around  the  city,  a  day  or  two  since,  I  noticed  multi- 
tudes of  little  boys  with  clubs,  representing,  in  childish  glee,  the 
tragedy  ofHonsein  and  Hassan,  in  nnticipation  of  the  approaching 
celebration  of  Moharrem.  Here  the  riddle  was  unfolded.  I  had 
often  wondered  how,  from  generation  to  generation,  this  annual  cel- 
ebration returns  with  such  engrossing  interest  to  all  classes  of  the 
Persians,  and  with  such  power  to  perpetuate  iheir  hatred  towards 
the  Soonees — and  especially  toward  the  Turks.  But  now  the  mys- 
tery was  solved.    I  saw  the  germ  taking  root  in  the  infant  mind. 


CELEBRATION  OF  KHALAT  POOSHAN. 


209 


Could  the  seed  of  the  gospel  be  effectually  sown  in  this  prolific 
soil,  what  a  harvest  might  be  realized  from  the  next  generation  in 
Persia. 

April  29.  I  rode  out  six  miles  to  a  beautiful  grove  and  palace 
called,  Khalat  Pooshan — putting  on  a  robe.  The  prince  of  Azerbi- 
jan  and  most  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  city  went  out  to  celebrate  the 
festivities  of  the  day.  On  this  occasion,  governors  of  provinces  put 
on  for  the  first  time  the  robes  of  honor  which  they  receive  annually, 
as  a  token  of  approbation,  from  the  king.  From  the  occasion,  the 
festival  and  the  place  where  it  is  celebrated  receive  the  name,  Kha- 
lat Pooshan.  The  excursion  was  pleasant,  except  that  the  crowd 
was  so  great  as  to  fill  the  atmosphere  with  clouds  of  dust  nnd  fine 
sand.  When  I  reached  home,  I  found  that  the  bishop.  Mar  Yohan- 
nan,  had  returned  from  visiting  his  friends  at  Oroomiah.  I  was 
much  gratified  with  his  promptness  in  returning.  Two  days 
of  his  month  still  remained,  and  he  stated,  that  he  had  foregone  the 
pleasure  of  visiting  several  of  his  villages  for  the  sake  of  arriving  in 
season  to  demonstrate  to  me,  that  he  was  a  fnan  of  his  word. 

April  30.  A  little  after  noon,  the  Nestorian  priest  also  arrived. 
He  resides  forty  miles  beyond  the  bishop's  village  and  was  in  conse- 
quence a  day  later.  They  brought  to  me  very  friendly  letters, 
from  the  other  bishops  of  the  province,  and  represent  both  ecclesi- 
astics and  people  as  extremely  anxious  to  see  me  at  Oroomiah.  I 
wait  here  only  for  a  missionary  associate,  but  fear  I  shall  at  last  be 
obliged  to  settle  there  alone. 

Mai/  1.  A  chappar,  (runner — courier,)  arrived  from  Tehran. 
Capt.  Todd,  a  pious  English  officer,  sends  for  Persian  New  Testa- 
ments, stating  that  application  for  the  Word  of  God,  on  the  part  of 
the  Mahammedans  there,  is  not  unfrequent.  There  are  many  in- 
dications to  encourage  us  to  believe,  that  Muhammedism  in  Persia 
is  on  the  wane. 

May  2.  The  celebration  of  Moharrem  commenced.  The  public 
performances,  connected  with  it,  continue  ten  days.*  The  tragedy, 
or  parts  of  it,  representing  the  death  of  Hoosein,  is  recited  by 
the  Moollahs,  each  day,  at  their  mosks  or  in  other  public  places. 
My  Turkish  teacher  requested  leave  of  absence  to-day,  to  go  to  a 
mosk  and  weep  for  their  venerated  Imams.  I  inquired  of  him  why 
he  would  weep  ?  And  he  replied,  that  the  Moollahs  say,  the  an- 
gels descend  and  catch  the  tears  of  those  who  weep,  on  this  occa- 
sion, to  be  preserved  and  presented  as  passports  into  Paradise.  I 
have  been  informed  also  that  tears  are  actually  preserved,  during 
this  celebration,  by  the  Persians,  as  charms  to  ward  off  sickness 


*  Mooaz-i-Doalah,  (a  Persian  monarch,)  who  was  a  bigoted  adherent  to 
the  sect  of  Ali,  when  his  power  was  fully  established,  commanded  the  first 
ten  days  of  the  month,  Moliarrem,  to  be  set  aside  for  a  general  mourning 
over  the  fate  of  Hoos6m,  the  son  of  Ali,  who  was  slain  on  the  plains  of  Ker- 
buldh,  in  tlie  COth  year  of  the  Hejirdh.— /foi.  of  Persia,  Vol.  I.  p.  169. 


27 


210 


OBSERVANCE  OE  MOHARREM. 


and  evil  influences.  The  idea  of  thus  preserving  tears  is  as  ancient 
as  the  Bible.  Says  the  psalmist,  "  Put  thou  my  tears  into  thy  bot- 
tle ;  are  they  not  in  thy  book  ?" 

May  5.  An  old  Nestorian,  from  the  bishop's  village,  came  into 
my  study,  and  was  greatly  delighted  in  listening  to  us,  while  we 
translated  Christ's  conversation  with  the  woman  of  Samaria,  into 
his  own  'dialect,  and  hearing,  probably  for  the  first  time,  of  that  liv- 
ing water  of  which  he  and  his  people  know  so  little.  A  young 
Meerza,  who  attends  Mr.  Haas's  school,  called  also  at  my  study. 
He  spoke  of  the  celebration  of  Moharrem  in  terms  of  disgust  and 
ridicule.  The  bishop  asked  him  whether  he  should  not  go  and loccp  7 
"  I  never  go  but  one  half  day  in  a  year,"  he  replied,  "  and  then  I 
go  to  laugh.'''  He  is  a  very  sprightly,  amiable  young  man,  tho- 
roughly disgusted  with  the  follies  and  abominations  of  Miihammed- 
ism  ;  in  the  same  state  in  which  muliitudes  in  Persia  are — turning 
with  abhorrence  from  the  religion  of  the  Prophet — ready  to  give  a 
hearing  to  any  system  that  is  offered  in  its  stead — and,  unsought  for 
by  the  sympathies  of  Christendom,  plunging  into  the  infidel  laby- 
rinths of  Soofeeism. 

May  12.  I  attended  the  representation  of  the  death  of  Hoosein,- — 
the  great  engine  of  perpetuating  the  division  and  hostility  between 
the  two  Mdhammedan  sects — the  Shiites  and  the  Soonees.*  The 
Persians,  who  are  Shiites,  acknowledge  Hoosein  ;  and  the  Turks, 
Koords  and  Tartars,  who  are  Soonees,  acknowledge  Omar  to  have 
been  the  rightful  successor  of  the  Prophet.  The  struggle  which 
took  place  when  Hoosein  was  slain  by  the  opposing  party,  was  rep- 
resented to-day  ;  but  in  a  most  rude  and  (as  we  should  say)  awk- 
ward majiner.  The  persons  representing  wowim,  for  instance,  were 
some  of  the  tallest  men  that  could  have  been  selected  from  the  mul- 
titude ;  and  under  their  gaudy  tinsel  dresses  appeared  their  brawny 
bare  feei,  which  they  occasionally  tried  in  vain  to  conceal.  The 
whole  was  a  most  consummate  farce.  Much  of  it,  however,  was  in- 
teresting, as  affording  illustrations  of  Scripture.  The  actors  often 
cast  dust  upon  their  heads;  and  they,  and  indeed  the  whole  con- 
gregation, were  dressed  in  sackcloth. t  The  representation,  more- 
over, unskilful  as  it  strikes  a  European,  seems  fully  to  secure  the 
object  for  which  it  was  originally  instituted,  viz.  to  inspire  hatred 
toward  the  Soonees.  Nor  does  it  fail  to  produce  deep  emotion.  The 
multitude  wept  to-day  profusely — and  many  of  them  audibly  and 
almost  convulsively — during  a  considerable  part  of  the  recital, 
beating  their  breasts  severely  at  the  same  time.  None  were  actually 
killed  in  the  representation  of  the  encfiunters,  which  abates  from  the 
tragical  interest  that  sometimes  attaches  to  the  celebration.  I 
should,  however,  before  dismissing  this  topic,  record  my  wonder — 


*  Slicah  or  Shiitc  means  a  'sectary,'  while  Soonee  is  its  opposite,  'ortliodox.' 

t  The  Persians  all  dress  in  Wflr/;,  as  u  token  of  tlieir  grief,  during  this 
whole  month. 


AID  IN  STUDY  TOMB  OF  IMAMS. 


211 


I  had  almost  said  my  admiration, — of  what  I  am  constrained  to  re- 
gard as  a  surprising  phenomenon, — congregated  thousands,  listen- 
ing with  almost  breathless  interest  to  the  same  recitals  which  they 
have  heard  repealed  all  their  life-time  from  year  to  year;  and 
wrought  up  by  them  to  a  pitch  of  emotion  that  shakes  their  fr;imes 
and  melts  them  in  tears; — while,  too,  the  actors  read  their  recitals, 
holding  their  notes  in  their  hands  ;  and  with  tones  and  manner  cer- 
tainly not  the  most  pathetic,  nor  even  fluent.  The  Persians  must  be 
far  more  susceptible  of  feeling  than  are  Americans.  And  I  could 
not  help  thinking,  that  were  they  spiritual  Christians,  they  would  re- 
buke the  too  heartless  manner  in  which  we  are  apt  to  approach  the 
affectincf  emblems  of  the  crucifixion. 

May  14.  I  spent  the  day  wuli  the  bishop  and  priest  forming 
paradigms  of  verbs  in  the  Nestorian  language.  I  have  found  it  an 
easy  and  delightful  task  to  acquire  a  tolerable  knowledge  of  the  an- 
cient Syriac,  from  its  resemblance  to  Hebrew,  and  having  gram- 
mars and  lexicons  at  command.  But  for  acquiring  the  modern  dia- 
lect of  that  language,  which  is  spoken  by  the  Nestorians,  I  have  but 
very  imperfect  helps.  This  language  has  never  been  reduced  to 
writing,  and  it  differs  so  much  from  the  ancient  Syriac,  that  the 
latter  is  not  understood  by  the  people.  Scholars,  in  their  studies  in 
America,  can  form  but  a  faint  idea  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encoun- 
tered in  reducing  such  a  language  to  regular  forms,  with  no  teach- 
ers except  such  as  understand  about  as  little  of  grammatical  princi- 
ples as  they  know  of  Egyptian  hieroglyphics.  The  venerable  bishop, 
for  instance,  sometimes  talks  about  the  tenses  of  nouns.  They  are 
both,  however,  very  docile ;  and  are  often  surprised  that  I  know  so 
much  more  of  the  forms  of  their  language  than  they  know  them- 
selves. 

May  16.  This  afternoon  I  walked,  in  company  with  the  bishop 
and  priest,  several  miles,  to  the  summit  of  the  lofty  mountain  back 
of  Tabreez.  The  view  of  the  city,  plain  and  villages,  and  the 
islands  of  the  distant  lake,  from  the  mountain-top,  is  extensive  and 
very  delightful.  On  the  pinnacle  of  this  mountain  is  an  ancient 
mosk,  much  resorted  to  by  the  Muhammedans  for  religious  pur- 
poses. It  contains  the  tombs  of  two  venerated  Imams.  The  inside 
of  the  mosk  is  hung  over  with  tawdry  ornament.s.  Several  tablets 
are  also  deposited  there,  inscribed  with  accounts  of  wonderful  cures 
and  other  miracles,  said  to  have  been  performed  by  the  efficacious 
ashes  of  the  departed  Imams.  The  building  is  kept  by  an  old  man 
who  is  nearly  blind.  "  The  Imams  are  not  able,  or  at  least  willing," 
muttered  the  old-man,  "  to  cure  my  eyes." 

May  18.  The  bishop  and  priest  have  just  commenced  studying 
geography;  and  the  effect  is  already  very  perceptible  in  exciting 
their  inquiry  and  interest  on  various  subjects.  They  appear,  in- 
deed, to  be  just  waking  up  from  the  dreams  of  infancy.  This  even- 
ing, as  they  rose  to  leave  my  room,  the  priest  inquired,  "  what  does 
the  sky  consist  of  1"    I  told  him  that  nobody  has  ever  been  up  far 


212 


CHANGE  OF  AMBASSADORS. 


to  examine,  but  that  we  suppose  it  to  consist  merely  of  air  and  space; 
"Nobody  been  there?  How  then  could  you  tell  us,  the  other  day, 
the  size  and  distance  of  the  sun  ?"  he  shrewdly  replied.  I  told  hinti 
that  these  had  been  measured  by  the  aid  of  optical  instruments.  He 
seemed  highly  entertained  and  quite  satisfied  with  some  account 
which  I  gave  him  of  the  process,  merely  adding,  that  Mar  Elias  had 
read  to  him,  from  one  of  their  old  books,  a  statement  that  the  skr/ 
is  formed  of  ice.  This  priest  proves  to  be  an  excellent  scholar,  for 
a  rude  Nestorian.  The  bishop  is  less  studious,  though  he  learns 
easily  and  appears  amiable.  We  may  hope  that  both  are  destined, 
by  Providence,  to  become  efficient  heralds  of  the  living  gospel,  to 
their  perishing  fellow,  men.  I  would  earnestly  commend  them  to 
the  prayers  of  American  Christians,  that  the  Spirit  of  the  Lord  may 
take  possession  of  their  hearts  and  dwell  richly  in  them,  and  thus 
prepare  them  to  preach  the  unsearchable  riches  of  Christ. 

July  ].  Sir  John  Campbell  is  about  to  retire  from  Persia.  We 
deeply  regret  his  leaving  the  country,  both  on  our  own  account  and 
that  of  Persia.  His  kindness  to  us,  in  most  trying  circumstances, 
has  been  truly  parental.  Dr.  Riach  and  Dr.  McNeill  are,  however, 
to  be  connected  with  the  new  embassy,  on  whom  we  may  rely  as 
warm  friends  of  our  object ;  and  for  aught  that  I  know,  the  new 
ambassador  may,  in  this  respect,  resemble  his  predecessor. 

I  have  just  learned,  with  joy  and  gratitude,  that  the  Board  have 
resolved  to  send  us  an  ordained  companion.  Tlie  harvest  is  fully 
ripe,  among  the  Ncstorians,  for  four,  five,  or  even  six  laborers, 
Mr.  Haas  is  succeeding  well  with  his  school  for  Muhammedans. 
The  governor  of  the  city  is  one  of  his  pupils.  Mr.  H.  attempts 
nothing  directly  but  secular  instruction.  The  Persians  receive  this 
gladly  ;  and  they  are  now  prepared  for  nothing  more.  There  are 
many  indications, — and  not  the  least,  their  own  prediction  and  uni- 
versal apprehension, — that  the  whole  fabric  of  Mdhammedism  is 
destined,  ere  long,  to  fall.  But  the  man  who  openly  raises  his  hand, 
for  some  time,  to  precipitate  its  fall,  will  probably  sacrifice  his  life 
and  perhaps  that  of  others,  to  his  imprudence,  and  thwart,  or  at 
least  greatly  retard,  the  result  which  he  would  hasten. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

ARRIVAL  OF  ASSOCIATES, 

Of  my  journey  into  Turkey,  referred  to  in  this  chapter,  I  give 
but  brief  notices,  as  I  have  repeatedly  travelled  the  same  route  at 
subsequent  periods,  when  I  could  make  observations  to  better  ad- 


JOURNEY  INTO  TURKEY. 


213 


vantage,  which  will  appear  in  their  places  in  other  parts  of  this 
volume. 

We  were  cheered,  Aug.  17,  by  intelHgence  of  the  arrival  of  Dr. 
and  Mrs.  Grant,  at  Constariliriople,  on  their  way  to  Persia.  The 
Rev.  James  L.  Merrick  had  been  in  that  city  several  months,  and 
together  they  were  now  to  proceed  onward  and  join  us  at  Tabreez. 
I  had  nnyself  the  satisfaction  of  accompanying  these  missionary 
friends  over  most  of  their  land-journey.  When  intelligence  reached 
us  of  the  arrival  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Grant  at  the  Turkish  capital,  I 
was  on  the  eve  of  making  a  short  mountain-excursion  for  the  bene- 
fit of  my  health,  which  had  become  seriously  impaired  by  a  year's 
confinement  in  the  city.  Europeans  in  Persia  must  travel,  to  some 
extent,  or  soon  sacrifice  life  to  the  neglect.  Our  friends  had  no  in- 
terpreter, and  I  was  fully  aware  that  what  knowledge  of  the  Turk- 
ish language  Mr.  Merrick  had  acquired  .at  Constantinople,  would 
be  of  very  little  avail  to  the  company  or  himself,  during  most  of  their 
land-journey,  where  a  dialect  so  different  from  the  Osmanly  is  spoken. 
The  Koords,  too,  were  at  that  time  in  a  very  disturbed  state.  From 
some  supposed  provocation,  on  the  part  of  the  Turkish  government, 
they  had  just  ravaged  several  villages  near  the  frontier ;  and  I  felt 
extremely  desirous  to  save  this  missionary  party — fresh  and  buoyant 
from  the  peaceful  land  of  our  fathers — from  being  retarded  and  tor- 
tured by  distressing  apprehension,  (as  we  had  been  on  our  way  to 
Persia,)  so  far  as  I  could  contribute  to  their  relief  by  going  to  meet 
them. 

I  left  home  Aug.  24th,  taking  with  me  an  attendant  for  myself, 
another  to  accompany  back  our  friends,  and  a  muleteer  to  act  as 
our  guide  and  take  charge  of  the  horses.  I  carried  so  little  bag- 
gage as  to  require  no  horses  in  addition  to  the  four  which  we  rode. 
I  travelled  to  Erzroom — a  distance  of  between  four  and  five  hun- 
dred miles — comfortably  and  safely  in  eleven  days.  I  passed  thou- 
sands of  Koords  on  the  road,  rambling  from  valley  to  valley  with 
their  flocks.  They  were  heavily  armed  with  swords,  spears  and 
pistols ;  and  they  often  thronged  the  road  in  such  numbers  that  I 
was  obliged  literally  to  rub  against  them,  for  long  distances,  in 
passing  them.  But  though  entirely  in  their  power — accompanied 
as  I  was  only  by  two  timorous  attendants  and  a  muleteer, — and 
though  they  were  under  the  strong  excitement  to  which  I  have  re- 
ferred, at  the  time,  they  showed  me  not  the  least  hostility  or  incivility. 
My  native  companions  manifested  the  most  distressing  apprehen- 
sions,— particularly  during  the  stage  in  which  we  met  the  largest 
number  of  Koords;  and  their  devices  to  ward  off  the  dreaded 
danger  were  often,  strictly  Persian  in  character.  As  we  passed 
one  tribe,  for  instance,  ray  European  costume  arrested  the  attention 
of  the  chief,  who,  eyeing  me  sharply,  halted  and  addressed  my  ser- 
vant, demanding  who  I  was.  Elchee,  (an  ambassador,)  promptly 
replied  the  frightened  servant.  "What  is  his  name  7"  added  the 
Koord.    Nisbct  Sah^b,  (Mr.  Niebet,)  answered  the  servant,  who, 


214 


EMBARRASMENT  OF  ATTENDANTS. 


having  but  just  entered  my  employ,  for  the  journey,  had  not  yet 
learned  my  name,  but  happened  to  be  familiar  with  that  of  Mr.  Nis- 
bet.  "  Has  he  no  larger  train  ?"  sternly  interrogated  the  Koord. 
"  Of  course,"  replied  the  servant;  "  he  has  a  large  body  of  armed 
men,  hastening  on,  just  in  the  rear  of.  us."  The  Koords  then 
moved  on.  I  remonstrated  with  the  servant  for  lying  in  that  man- 
ner ;  to  which  he  replied,  "  What  shall  we  do? — Have  our  heads 
cut  off?" 

The  embarrassments  of  my  attendants,  during  that  stage,  were 
not  a  little  enhanced  by  having  a  live  lamb  to  carry.  The  monks, 
at  the  Armenian  convent  of  Utch-kileesia,*  where  we  passed  the 
previous  night,  had  presented  to  me  the  lamb,  in  return  for  some 
small  articles  which,  in  their  poverty  and  want,  I  had  given  to  them. 
I  declined  the  present,  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  disposing  of  it ; 
but  my  attendants  begged  me  to  receive  it  and  give  it  to  them  ;  to 
which  I  consented,  on  condition  that  they  should  relieve  me  of  all 
care  respecting  the  lamb.  They  promised  to  do  so — their  plan  be- 
ing to  carry  it  alive  to  our  next  stopping-place,  and  there  kill,  cook 
and  enjoy  it.  They  therefore  bound  it  upon  one  of  their  horses; 
but  almost  as  often  as  we  came  in  contact  with  a  cluster  of  the 
frightful  Koords,  it  fell  off  and  obliged  the  trembling  servants  to 
dismount,  in  the  midst  of  the  enemy,  and  replace  it  upon  the  horse. 
And  it  was  often  highly  amusing  to  observe  the  struggle  between 
their  desire  to  retain  the  lamb  and  their  strong  temptation  to  abandon 
the  source  of  so  much  trouble  and  exposure.  They,  however,  per-' 
severed ;  and  in  their  joyous  carnival,  at  our  next  stopping-place, 
in  which  the  muleteer  and  a  number  of  the  villagers  convivially 
shared,  they  seemed  to  forget  all  the  difficulties  and  perils  of  the 
way. 

European  travellers  have  always  more  or  less  to  fear  on  this 
route,  unless  thev  fall  in  with  lafge  caravaris,  or  take  with  them  a 
considerable  military  escort.  A  Russian  commercial  agent,  who 
came  on  from  Erzroom  just  after  I  passed,  was  obliged  to  pay  to  a 
Koordish  chief  a  considefable  sum  of  money  to  induce  the  marauder 
to  desist  from  an  evident  intention  to  rob  him  of  his  baggage.  And 
not  long  after  we  passed  over  the  same  road,  on  our  return  to  Amer- 
ica, two  English  travellers,  whom  we  met  at  Constantinople,  came 
very  near  losing  their  lives,  on  that  same  frightful  stage  where  my 
attendants  were  so  much  embarrassed  in  carrying  the  lamb.  A  de- 
scription of  the  adventure  of  those  English  gentlemen  has  just 
reached  me  in  a  letter  from  my  esteemed  associate,  Mr.  Merrick, 
which,  as  it  affords  a  good  illustration  of  the  insecurity  of  that  re- 
gion, I  give  to  the  reader. 

"A  few  days  before  we  left  Tabreez,  Mr.  Abbottt  and  a  Mr.Todd 


*  Greek,  ly.yltinlu,  church;  Utch-kileesiii,  three  churches. 

t  The  English  friend  mentioned  on  p.  87,  and  now  British  consul  at  Tehr^in. 


ATTACK  FROM  THE  KOORDS. 


215 


arrived  on  their  way  to  Tehran.  Not  far  west  of  Utch-kileesia, 
they  were  attacked  by  about  twenty  Koords,  who  issued  from  a  de- 
file and  made,  as  Mr.  Abbott  expressed  it,  "  a  beautiful  charge,"  on 
them,  with  levelled  spears,  oneof  which  pierced  Mr.Abbott's  clothes, 
grazing  his  side.  Two  Koords,  one  on  each  side  of  him,  aimed  fu- 
rious blows  at  his  head,  which  he  parried  with  his  arms  ;  and  as  the 
swords  happened  to  be  dull,  his  arms  were  only  hruisi-.d  by  the  blows. 
A  spear  now  catching  in  his  leather  belt,  unhorsed  him,  when  in- 
stantly two  Koords  alighted,  oneof  whom  aimed  at  him  a  deadly 
blow,  but  the  other  interposed,  saying,  "  Do  not  strike,"  (voormu,) 
and  took  him  prisoner.  In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  Todd,  at  the  first 
charge,  drew  a  pistol,  fired,  missed  his  man,  who  instantly  returned 
the  fire,  but  missed  Mr.  Todd,  who  was  presently  unhorsed.  Both 
of  them  (the  travellers)  were  now  stripped  to  their  shirts  and  pan- 
taloons, and  in  this  condition, — Mr.  Todd  barefoot  and  Mr.  Abbott 
in  his  stockings, — they  were  driven,  at  the  point  of  the  spear,  about 
a  mile,  over  rough,  briery  ground,  where  they  were  mounted  be- 
hind two  Koords  and  hurried  some  six  miles  farther,  up  a  lonely 
defile  in  the  mountains, — Mr.  Todd's  Koord,  a  ferocious-looking 
fellow,  occasionally  pointing  up  the  defiile  and  then  drawing  his 
hand  across  his  own  throat,  to  signify  the  fate  Mr.  T.  was  to  ex- 
pect. Mr.  Abbott,  who,  you  know,  speaks  Turkish,  in  the  mean 
time  had  informed  his  captor  that  they  were  Englishmen,  going  to 
join  the  embassy  at  Tehran,  and  if  they  were  missing,  would  of 
course  be  sought  for,  and  the  Koords  might  at  length  be  punished. 
This  announcement  alarmed  the  Koords,  who  consulted  in  their 
own  language  what  was  to  be  done;  and  finally,  after  detaining 
Messrs.  Abbott  and  Todd  several  hours,  they  told  them  that  they 
should  only  take  their  money  and  allow  them  to  depart  with  the  rest 
of  their  property.  They,  however,  kept  Mr.  Abbott's  gold  watch 
and  some  other  articles;  but,  under  Providence,  the  English  name 
was  apparently  the  means  of  preserving  them  from  being  deliberately 
murdered  by  those  fierce  and  ruthless  robbers.  Two  Catholic  Ar- 
menian priests,  going  to  join  the  Catholic  mission  at  Isfahan,  were 
with  them,  for  whom,  as  well  as  for  the  servants  of  the  party,  Mr. 
Abbott  interceded;  so  that  they  were  allowed  to  take  away  part  of 
their  goods,  but  all  the  money  was  claimed  and  pocketed  by  the 
Koords.  On  being  dismissed,  Mr.  Abbott  and  his  party  made  the 
best  of  their  way  to  Utch-kileesia,  where  they  remained  three  days; 
and  having  procured  a  guard  from  Bayazeed,  proceeded  on  their 
way,  grateful  for  such  a  Providential  deliverance.  The  Koords  had 
been  plundering  in  that  region  for  about  a  month,  stripping  travel- 
lers and  villages." 

When  I  left  home,  I  thought  of  proceeding  no  further  than  Erz- 
rooin,  expecting  that  our  missionary  friends,  if  not  already  there, 
would  very  soon  arrive.  I  reached  that  city  Sept.  5th,  but  they 
were  not  there.  I  forwarded  information  to  the  Rev.  T.  P.  John- 
ston, our  missionary  at  Trebizond,  of  my  having  advanced  thus  far ; 


216 


MEETING  ASSOCIATES. 


and  waited  in  daily  expectation  of  their  arrival,  until  Sept.  20th, 
wlien  I  received  a  letter  from  Mr.  J.  stating,  that  the  party  had  been 
with  him  three  weeks,  and  had  as  long  tried  in  vain  to  procure 
horses, — a  sufficient  number  to  ride  merely,  while  they  would  wil- 
lingly leave  most  of  their  effects  behind, — such  was  the  pressing  de- 
mand for  horses  for  the  transportation  of  merchandize.    Stern  win- 
ter was  threatening  to  set  in  on  the  mountains.    And  the  prospect 
was,  that  Mrs.  Grant,  if  not  the  whole  party,  should  they  be  delayed 
a  few  days  longer,  would  be  obliged  to  remain  at  Trebizond,  until 
next  spring.    And  in  view  of  the  general  embarrassment  of  stran- 
gers in  a  strange  land,  unable  to  speak  the  language  and  transact 
business,  Mr.  Johnston  advised  nie  to  proceed  onward  to  Trebi- 
zond, or  until  I  should  meet  the  missionary  company.    With  a  tar- 
tar* who  had  conducted  the  new  English  ambassador  to  Erzroom 
and  was  about  to  return,  I  started  the  next  day  about  noon.  And 
on  the  succeeding  day,  Sept.  22d,  (having  rode  in  a  day  and  a  half 
more  than  one  hundred  miles,)  I  had  the  happiness  to  meet  our 
friends  at  the  village  of  Balhoor,  just  about  midway  between  Trebi- 
zond and  Ezroom.    The  day  after  Mr.  Johnston  had  written  me, 
they  succeeded  in  procuring  horses  and  commenced  their  journey. 
Our  meeting  could  not  be  otherwise  than  mutually  grateful, — to 
me,  who  had  not  seen  the  face  of  an  American,  except  that  of  Mrs. 
P.  after  leaving  Constantinople,  a  year  and  a  half  before;  and  to 
them,  in  their  novel  and  embarrassing  circumstances,  in  that  wild 
country.     Nor  was  our  meeting  less  providential  than  grateful.  I 
reached  the  village  in  which  they  had  encamped  for  the  night  a  lit- 
tle after  sunset.    Just  at  that  point,  several  routes  to  Trebizond  di- 
verge.   Neither  party  knew  of  the  other's  being  on  the  way;  and  I 
was  to  proceed  at  midnight,  on  the  post  route,  a  different  one  from 
that  which  they  had  travelled.    On  inquiry  of  some  muleteers  who 
had  stopped  in  the  village,  whether  they  had  seen  or  heard  of  Euro- 
pean travellers,  I  recognized  in  one  of  them  a  boy  who  was  attached 
to  the  caravan  in  which  we  had  travelled  over  that  region.  He 
told  me  that  he  had  seen  two  gentlemen  and  Mrs.  Perkins  a  few 
days  before,  just  starting  from  Trebizond.     I  found  it  difficult  to 
persuade  the  boy  (hat  he  had  not  seen  Mrs.  P.  there  at  that  time, 
but  was  satisfied  that  he  must  have  seen  Mrs.  Grant.  Being  the  only 
females  whom  he  had  ever  seen  in  our  costume,  he  very  naturally 
confounded  the  two.  Encouraged  by  this  success,  I  prosecuted  my 
inquiries,  and  soon  found  that  my  friends  were  snugly  quartered  in 
a  stable  within  a  few  rods  of  me  ;  and  I  of  course  was  not  long  in 
becoming  one  of  the  party.    Had  they  been  a  day  later,  or  en- 
camped in  another  village,  or  had  I  been  an  hour  or  two  earlier  and 
passed  that  village,  we  must  have  missed  each  other,  and  I  have 
proceeded  over  the  still  long  distance  and  the  many  rough  moun- 


*  The  tartar  is  ,i  Turkish  coiivior,  who  also  acts  as  a  convoy,  alone  or  at  the 
head  of  a  party,  to  escort  travellers  and  sometimes  caravans. 


ARRIT'AL  PLAGUE  AND  CHOLERA. 


217 


tains,  to  Trebizond.  It  is  delightful,  in  incidents  like  this,  to  re- 
cognize the  guidance  of  a  heavenly  Fatlier's  hand. 

This  missionary  party  had  a  very  comfortable  and  quick  land- 
journey.  From  Trebizond  to  Erzroonn,  they  were  travelling  only 
seven  days.  The  Sabbath  and  an  accident — the  falling  of  a  loaded 
horse  down  a  precipice — detained  them  two  days.  We  were  hin- 
dered at  Erzroom  but  two  days  to  procure  fresh  horses,  and  from 
thence  to  Tabreez,  were  on  the  road  seventeen  days.  The  party 
arrived  at  that  city  on  the  15th  of  October.  Mrs.  Grant  endured — 
I  might  better  say,  enjoyed — the  journey  remarkably  well ;  and  my 
own  health  was  perfectly  restored,  as  1  had  hoped  it  would  be,  by 
the  invigorating  excursion.  At  Erzroom  we,  providentially,  fell  in 
with  a  caravan  of  about  six  hundred  horses,  carrying  English  mer- 
chandize to  Persia,  and  escorted  by  a  Turkish  guard  ;  and  we  were 
thus  relieved  of  much  apprehension  of  danger  from  the  Koords. 
We  were  all  fully  convinced,  from  the  general  difficulties  of  the  way, 
and  the  comparative  ease  with  which  this  journey  was  accomplished, 
that  it  will  always  be  expedient  whenever  new  missionaries — 
especially  if  they  have  ladies — shall  join  us,  for  one  of  our  number, 
acquainted  with  the  native  language,  to  go  and  conduct  them  over 
the  most  dangerous  part  of  their  land-journey,  as  I  did  in  this  in- 
stance. The  expense  of  so  much  travel  is,  to  be  sure,  considerable; 
but  probably  far  less  than  would,  in  most  cases,  be  paid  to  a  treach- 
erous interpreter.  The  journey,  to  the  missionary  who  goes,  will 
always  be  a  very  healthful  recreation  ;  and  we  know  of  no  other  so 
effectual  means,  by  which  to  secure  strangers  coming  to  Persia 
from  numberless  embarrassments  and  constant  apprehension,  if  not 
from  danger  and  death. 

While  speaking  of  mercies,  experienced  at  this  period  on  the 
road,  I  should  not  omit  to  mention  also  divine  protection  at  home. 
Though  we  were  surrounded  by  "the  pestilence  that  walketh  in 
darkness  and  the  destruction  that  wasteth  at  noon-day,"  they  were 
not  permitted  to  enter  our  dwelling.  The  plague  had  some  time 
before  made  its  appearance  in  Tabreez,  and  it  prevailed,  though  not 
with  great  violence,  until  about  the  time  of  my  leaving  home  for 
Erzroom.  All  was  then  quiet,  and  we  were  hoping  that  the  special 
angel  of  death  had  passed  by  us,  at  least  for  the  season.  But  1  had 
been  from  home  only  a  week,  when  that  yet  more  terrific  eastern 
scourge,  the  cholera,  appeared  there.  Its  ravages  were  awful — 
often  numbering  four  hundred  per  day  among  its  victims.  Mrs. 
Perkins  was  at  our  house  in  that  city  alone.  When  I  heard  on  the 
road  of  the  prevalence  of  the  cholera  there,  my  suspense  and  solici- 
tude respecting  her  were  of  course  distressing,  especially  as  I  could 
hear  nothing  from  her.  After  reaching  Khoy,  where  the  Koordish 
region  ceases,  I  therefore  left  our  missionary  party  to  pursue  their 
journey  leisurely,  and  hastened  on,  accompanied  only  by  my  ser- 
vant, and  reached  Tabreez,  which  is  more  than  ninety  miles  distant 
from  Khoy,  with  a  dull  though  strong  caravan  horse,  in  a  day  and 

28 


218 


NEW  ENGLISH  EMBASSY. 


a  half.  My  servant's  horse  tired  and  I  left  them  both  a  little  short  of 
half  way,  and  performed  the  remaining  fifty  miles  entirely  alone, 
and  the  part  of  it  which  is  considered  somewhat  dangerous,  in  the 
night.  But  I  soon  forgot  the  fatigue  and  exposure  of  my  long  and 
rapid  ride,  on  reaching  our  dwelling,  where  I  found  Mrs.  P.  well, 
having  been  graciously  kept  during  my  absence,  from  attack  and 
alarm,  while  thousands  had  literally  fallen  at  her  side.  Never,  she 
informed  me,  was  she  more  happy  in  the  confidence  that  God  would 
preserve  her  from  harm,  than  in  her  solitude  during  that  frightful 
visitation. 

One  of  the  German  missionaries — Mr.  Schneider — who  had  re- 
cently arrived  at  Tabreez  from  Shoosha,  was  laid  upon  the  brink 
of  the  grave,  by  the  cholera;  but  he  was  again  mercifully  restored. 
Mr.  Haas,  who  knows  something  of  medicine,  was  extremely  active, 
among  the  suffering  and  dying,  and  the  Lord  greatly  blessed  his  pre- 
scriptions. Probably  no  other  circumstances  could  have  given  to 
him  such  access  to  all  classes  of  the  Persians  and  secured  for  him 
such  general  favor.  When  T  reached  home,  the  cholera  had  nearly 
disappeared  at  Tabreez,  and  had  moved  on  northward  and  west- 
ward. While  our  hearts  bleed  in  view  of  the  multitudes,  in  the 
East,  who  are  thus  hurried  under  fearful  condemnation  into  a  mis- 
erable eternity,  we  find  some  relief  in  the  evidence  which  we  have, 
that  God  has  used,  and  is  using,  these  terrific  scourges,  the  plague 
and  cholera,  to  shake  down  the  fabric  of  Muhammedism.  It  is  dur- 
ing their  prevalence,  that  we  behold  the  most  striking  exemplifica- 
tion of  the  Scripture  language,  "men's  hearts  failing  them  for  fear 
and  for  looking  after  those  things  which  are  conning  on  the  earth." 

My  journey  to  Erzroora  confirmed  iny  previous  impressions,  in 
favor  of  the  establishment  of  a  mission  in  that  city.  The  number 
of  Armenians,  there  and  in  the  region,  is  constantly  increasing. 
Many  of  those  who  followed  the  Russians  into  Georgia  are  return- 
ing. The  city  is  also  fast  rising  in  commercial  importance.  The 
number  of  European  residents  is  increasing.  And  a  circumstance 
which  calls  for  promptness,  in  sending  a  missionary  there,  is,  that 
Ronmanism  is  taking  root  and  extending.  The  Papists  are  exerting 
their  influence  at  Erzroom  for  the  conversion  of  the  Armenians 
from  "  bad  to  worse," — a  conversion,  which  adds  to  the  corruptions 
of  that  church,  the  yet  deeper  darkness  of  Popery.  Our  mission  in 
Persia  also  greatly  needs  a  missionary  agent  at  Erzroom.  Though  we 
have  found  Mr.  Zohrab,  the  English  consular  agent,  extremely  oblig- 
ing, it  is  undesirable  to  impose  too  heavy  a  burden  upon  secular  men. 

At  Erzroom,  I  had  a  very  favorable  opportunity  of  making  the 
acquaintance  of  the  new  English  ambassador,  the  Rt.  Honorable 
Henry  Ellis,  and  his  suite,  who  were  then  on  their  way  to  Persia. 
I  boarded  at  the  ambassador's  table,  the  week  which  they  spent  in 
that  city.  They  all  appear  to  be  excellent  gentlemen.  Mr.  Ellis 
is  the  same  who  accompanied  Lord  Amherst,  as  his  first  secretary, 
to  China,  and  published  an  account  of  that  Embassy.    He  is  a  se- 


ENGLISH  PROTECTION. 


219 


rious  man  ;  he  expressed  very  deep  interest  in  our  mission  and  prof- 
fered me  every  assistance  in  his  power  to  render.  At  hio  sugges- 
tion, I  addressed  to  him  a  written  request  and  obtained  from  hira 
English  protection.  I  will  insert  here  a  copy  of  my  apphcation,  as 
also  of  tlie  ambassador's  official  reply  and  an  accompanying  pass- 
port, that  the  reader  may  obtain  a  more  definite  idea  of  tiie  kind  and 
degree  of  encouragement  extended  to  us  by  British  representatives 
in  Persia  than  general  statements  on  the  subject  would  convey. 

"  Tabreez,  Uth  of  Oct.  1835. 

To  His  Excellency,  the  Rt.  Honorable  Henry  Ellis,  His  Brittanic 
Majesty's  Ambassador  Extraordinary  to  the  Court  of  Persia; 

Sir, — As  a  Prostestant  clergyman,  sent  to  this  country  by  the 
American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions,  with  the 
design  and  hope,  by  the  judicious  use  of  appropriate  means  under 
the  blessing  of  God,  of  reviving  the  spirit  and  practice  of  the  gospel 
among  the  Nestorian  Christians,  T  beg  to  request  your  Excellency's 
encouragement  and  protection,  in  the  quiet  prosecution  of  my  un- 
dertaking, so  far  as  so  great  a  favor  can  be  granted  in  consistency 
with  the  views  of  the  powerful  and  revered  government  which  you 
represent.  I  am  encouraged  to  solicit  this  favor,  by  the  well  known 
enlightening  and  ameliorating  policy  of  his  Brittanic  Majesty's 
government,  in  its  foreign  as  well  as  its  domestic  relations, — but 
especially,  by  your  Excellency's  characteristic  kindness,  your  philan- 
thropic desires  for  the  good  of  this  and  every  other  country,  and 
your  truly  christian  interest  which  I  had  previously  known,  but 
was  happy,  this  morning,  to  hear  you  avow,  in  the  extension  of 
our  holy  religion  and  the  salvation  of  men. 

Sincerely  desiring  and  praying  for  your  Excellency's  highest  per- 
sonal happiness  and  the  smiles  of  heaven  to  succeed  your  present 
very  important  embassy,  I  have  the  honor  to  remain,  with  senti- 
ments of  heartfelt  gratitude  and  great  respect, 

Your  Excellency's  most  obedient  servant, 
(Signed)  J.  Perkins." 

THE  ambassador's  REPLY. 

"Tabreez,  Oct.  15,  1835. 

Sir, — I  have  the  honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  your  letter 
of  the  14th  inst.  and  beg  leave  to  enclose  a  Passport,  which  is  the 
document  by  which  I  conceive  that  the  acknowledgement  of  the 
official  countenance  of  the  British  representative  will  be  best  con- 
veyed to  the  Persian  authorities.  I  feel  confident,  that  in  adopting 
this  measure,  I  act  in  accordance  with  the  views  of  His  Majesty's 
government,  to  whom  the  proposed  introduction  of  the  pure  doc- 
trines of  the  Reformed  church  among  the  Nestorian  Christians  in 
this  country  cannot  fail  to  be  a  matter  of  deep  and  serious  interest. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  for  me  to  point  out  the  indispensable 


220         THE  ambassador's  interest  in  missions. 


necessity  of  avoiding  any  interference*  with  the  religious  belief  of 
the  Mohammedan  population.  To  such  a  proceeding  I  could  not 
give  any  official  sanction ;  and  I  am,  moreover,  convinced,  that 
the  attempt  itself  would  be  fatal  to  the  prosecution  of  the  reasonable 
and  definite  object  for  which  your  mission  has  been  instituted. 

I  beg  leave  to  return  you  my  sincere  thanks,  for  the  manner  in 
which  you  have  expressed  yourself  respecting  my  sentiments  on 
this  very  interesting  and  important  subject,  and  to  assure  you  of 
my  most  anxious  wishes  for  the  success  of  your  exertions. 
I  have  the  honor  to  be, 

Sir,  your  obedient  humble  servant, 
(Signed)  H.  Ellis." 

PASSPORT. 

"  We,  Henry  Ellis,  member  of  the  Privy  Council  of  His  Brittanic 
Majesty,  and  His  Ambassador  to  the  Shah  of  Persia,  request  the 
civil  and  military  authorities,  entrusted  with  the  maintenance  of 
the  peace  of  the  country,  to  allow  the  Rev.  Justin  Perkins,  of  the 
United  States  of  America,  to  pass  freely  through  and  reside  without 
molestation,  in  the  kingdom  of  Persia,  and  in  case  of  need,  to  af- 
ford him  aid  and  protection. 

The  Ambassador  of  His  Brittanic  Majesty, 
(Signed)  H.  Ellis." 

Mr.  Ellis  views  the  subject  of  the  spread  of  the  gospel  in  Asia 
alike  as  a  philosopher  and  a  Christian.  In  conversation  with  me, 
he  remarked,  'I  act  no  more  as  a  philanthropist  and  a  Chri.<5tian, 
than  as  a  politician,  in  protecting  and  aiding  Protestant  missiona- 
ries in  the  East.  And  when  I  say  Proinstant  missionaries,''  he  con- 
tinued,'I  mean  all,  of  whatever  Reformed  Evangelical  church. 
Though  a  churchman  myself,  I  bid  God  speed  to  every  pious  Pro- 
testant, engaged  in  this  work.  I  make  no  distinction,  be  he  Pres- 
byterian, Baptist,  Methodist,  Episcopalian  or  Lutheran.'  What  a 
glory  is  it  to  Britain  and  what  a  blessing  to  the  world,  that  so  much 
of  her  policy  is  thus  identified  with  the  extension  of  Christ's  king- 
dom. And  what  a  rebuke  is  here  administered,  by  the  noble-mind- 
ed civilian,  to  th<ise  clerical  men  whose  narrow  hearts  would  limit 
their  sympathies  to  names,  forms  or  canonicals.  I  should  not  omit 
to  mention,  that  Mr.  Ellis  had  politely  invited  me  to  preach  to  him- 
self aud  his  suite  the  Sabbath  which  we  passed  together  at  Erzroom  ; 
and  though  doubtless  naturally  and  innocently  partial  to  his  own 
forms,  he  thanked  me  and  expressed  himself  gratified  at  the  close 
of  the  service,  though  1  wore  no  surplice  and  used  no  prayer-book. 

The  ambassador  also  tendered  to  the  German  missionaries  in 
Tabreez — four  in  number — English  protection,  and  they  all  availed 
themselves  of  it.    It  was  an  unexpected  and  very  great  relief  ta 


*  According  to  the  Ambassador's  verbal  explanation,  any  open  attack. 


SUSPENSION  01*  THE  MISSION  AT  SHOOSUA. 


221 


ihose  brethren  at  that  time.  They  had  been  thrown  into  distressing 
embarrassment  and  solicitude,  by  a  late  order  from  the  Russian  gov* 
ernment,  absolutely  forbidding  the  missionaries  at  Shooslia.  to  pro- 
ceed another  step  with  their  labors  in  Georgia, — a  line  of  policy, 
as  I  have  elsewhere  suggested,  introduced,  doubtless,  by  the  bigotry 
of  the  j)riesthood,  rather  tiian  by  the  more  liberal  views  of  the 
Czar's  government.  The  German  missionaries  here,  as  well  as  at 
Shoosha,  had  enjoyed  efficient  Russian  protection;  and  after  this 
order  was  issued,  they  were  apprehensive  of  the  withdrawal  of  that 
protection.  Just  at  that  juncture,  Mr.  Ellis  arrived  and  relieved 
them,  by  furnishing  each  one  of  them  with  an  English  passport.  Of 
his  own  accord,  he  also  addressed  a  letter  to  the  governor  of  this 
province,  requesting  him,  as  he  values  English  friendship,  to  take 
particular  care  of  us  and  the  German  missionaries. 

I  give  the  reader  a  literal  English  translation  of  the  order  from 
the  Russian  government  which  I  have  mentioned,  furnished  me  at 
that  time  by  the  German  brethren. 

"Order  from  the  Russian  government,  communicited  in  the  month 
of  August,  1835,  by  the  commandant  of  Shoosha  ro  the  mission- 
aries of  the  Basle  Missionary  Society  : 

Gentlemen, — In  consequence  of  a  memoria]  from  the  command- 
er in  chief  of  Georgia,  addressed  to  the  minister  of  the  interior  and 
forwarded  by  him  to  the  committee  of  ministers,  respecting  your 
missionary  establishment  located  at  Shoosha,  the  committee — learn- 
ing by  the  real  state  of  things,  that  you,  gentlemen,  since  the  time 
of  your  settlement  at  Shoosha,  have  not  yet  convened  any  body, 
and,  deviating  from  your  proper  limits,  have  directed  your  views  to 
the  Armenian  youth,  which,  on  part  of  the  Armenian  clergy,  has 
produced  complaints,  the  consequence  of  which  may  be  very  disa- 
greeable,— have  concluded  to  prohibit  you  all  missionary  labors ; 
and  for  the  future,  to  leave  it  to  your  own  choice  to  employ  your- 
selves with  agriculture,  manufactures,  or  mechanical  trades.  In 
conclusion,  to  prevent  any  further  complaints  on  part  of  the  Arme- 
nian clergy,  they  forbid  you  to  receive  the  Armenian  youth  into 
your  schools. 

"  It  has  pleased  His  Majesty,  the  emperor,  to  confirm  this  decree 
of  the  committee  of  ministers." 

There  were  five  missionaries,  four  clergymen  and  a  printer,  at  this 
time  connected  with  the  Shoosha  mission,  and  left  to  weep  over  the 
desolations  of  Zion,  whose  walls  they  were  thus  peremptorily  for- 
bidden to  repair.  Their  labors  for  the  revival  of  religion,  among 
the  degraded  Armenians,  were  in  vigorous  and  successful  operation. 
They  directed  their  efforts  principally  to  this  class,  rightly  judging 
it  fruitless  to  attempt  to  convert  Muhammedans,  while  the  latter 
saw  Christianity  in  so  fallen^  revolting  a  form,  among  those  nomi- 
nal Christians. 


222 


MISSIONS  OF  THE  GREEK  CHURCH  IN  RUSSIA. 


On  the  north  aide  of  the  Caucasus  mountains,  at  a  place  called 
Karrass,  is  a  Scottish  misaionary  colony.  It  was  established  under 
the  auspices  of  the  late  emperor,  Alexander,  soon  after  he  gave  evi- 
dence of  being  influenced  by  motives  of  evangelical  piety.  The 
emperor  gave  to  that  establishment  the  prerogatives  and  form  of  a 
colony,  for  the  sole  purpose,  it  is  said,  of  avoiding  the  opposition 
which  he  apprehended  as  likely  to  be  immediately  roused  among 
the  clergy  against  a  Protestant  mission.  But  the  enterprise,  though 
partially  colonial  in  form,  was  in  fact  strictly  missionary  in  its  ob- 
ject. And  the  Scottish  and  Basle  Missionary  Societies  have  had — 
one  or  both — missionaries  connected  with  the  establishment,  ever 
since  its  commencement.  About  the  same  time  that  the  govern- 
ment order  was  issued,  forbidding  the  Shoosha  missionaries  to  pro- 
ceed with  their  labors,  a  similar  one  was  forwarded  to  Karrass,  com- 
manding the  Protestant  missionaries  there  also — six  in  number,  (one 
Scottish  and  five  German,) — to  cease  entirely  from  their  labors,  and 
stating,  that  missionaries  from  the  Greek  church  in  Russia  were 
soon  to  take  their  places.  Below  is  a  note  from  one  of  the  German 
brethren,  communicating  to  me  this  and  some  other  information. 

"  My  dear  Brother, 

We  yesterday  received  letters  by  which  we  are  informed,  that  in 
a  paper  from  the  Russian  government  to  the  Scottish  colony  at  Kar- 
rass, on  the  north  side  of  the  Caucasus,  it  was  stated,  that  the  gov- 
ernment, finding  that  the  Scottish  and  Basle  missionaries  had  made 
but  a  few  converts,  during  the  long  time  of  their  activity,  have  di- 
rected the  Greek  church,  which,  during  a  few  years,  has  converted 
seventy  thousand  mountaineers  to  Christianity,  to  occupy  the  place 
of  the  Scottish  and  German  missionaries.  I  do  not  know  where 
these  converted  mountaineers  live;  but  I  have  no  doubt  of  the  truth 
of  this  statement ;  for  nothing  is  easier  than  to  make  converts  among 
a  barbarous  people,  in  the  way  in  which  the  Russian  clergy  do  it. 
They  hold  out  to  the  poor  people  bright  promises  of  worldly  advan- 
tage;  give  them,  at  the  time  of  their  baptism,  new  clothing  and  a 
few  silver  roubles,  and  leave  them  in  the  same  barbarism  and  dark- 
ness in  which  they  lived  before.  I  myself  saw  many  of  the  Osse- 
tianson  the  Caucasus,  whom  the  Greek  church  have  thus  converted. 
They  were  in  a  most  deplorable  state.  Some  of  them  have  repeat- 
edly presented  themselves  for  baptism,  and  have  actually  been  bap- 
tized twice  and  thrice  for  the  sake  of  getting  more  new  clothes  and 
money.  Now  these  nominal  converts  are  much  more  wretched  than 
their  heathen  countrymen.  They  do  not  know  what  they  believe, 
are  abandoned  by  their  own  people  and  despised  by  everybody. 

"In  Siberia,  I  have  learned  that  the  Russian  church  has  like- 
wise made  a  great  many  converts,  whom  they  have  taught  to  adore 
pictures  as  gods,  and  to  keep  fasts,  as  indispensable  to  their  becom- 
ing acceptable  to  God.  When  these  converts  do  not  like  to  mortify 
their  appetites  in  fasting,  they  are  cunning  enough  to  turn  over  their 


INTOLERANCE  ^THE  TURKISH  LANGUAGE.  223 


pictures,  that  their  gods  may  not  witness  their  sensuality.  It  is  not 
at  all  strange,  therefore,  that  we  have  an  account  of  two  English 
travellers  in  Russia,  who  met  with  many  persons  in  the  souihern 
part  of  the  empire,  who  suppose  that  St.  Nicholas  will  succeed  to 
the  throne  of  heaven,  when  the  Almighty  shall  die  ! 

"  How  cheering  it  would  be  to  see  evangelical  missionaries  go 
forth  to  work  among  the  Russians,  to  lead  such  idolaters  to  the  wor- 
ship of  the  living  God, — and  if  missionaries  must  be  shut  out  of  the 
empire,  to  see  tracts*  spread  among  them,  inculcating  the  pure  gos- 
peJ  and  exposing  such  appalling  superstitions  ! 

Very  affectionately  yours, 
(Signed)  F.  H.— 

Tahreez,  Oct.  IQth,  1835." 

If  apologists  for  the  intolerance  tow^ards  Protestant  missions,  to 
which  the  bigoted  priesthood  in  Russia  impel  the  government,  need 
an  additional  fact,  they  may  be  told,  that  Mr.  Merrick  and  Dr.  Grant, 
when  on  their  way  to  Persia,  applied  to  the  Russian  ambassador  at 
Constantinople  for  passports  that  would  alJow  them,  in  case  of  ne- 
cessity, to  travel  in  Georgia,  and  were  refused  such  passports,  on  the 
ground  of  their  h&xngmhaionaries^ — the  new  ukase  to  which  I  have 
before  alluded,  being  referred  to  by  the  ambassador,  as  forbidding 
any  clergyman  to  enter  the  empire  without  the  emperor's  permis- 
sion. 

Our  Nestorian  ecclesiastics,  the  bishop  and  priest,  went  home 
about  the  middle  of  June,  on  account  of  the  prevalence  of  the 
plague  at  Tabreez.  In  prospect  of  soon  removing  to  Oroomiah, 
I  did  not  think  it  expedient  to  have  them  return  to  Tabreez.  After 
they  left  us,  1  directed  my  attention  e.xclusively  to  the  study  of  Turk- 
ish. The  Azerbijan  Turkish  is  not  a  loritlen  language,  and  the 
facilities  for  acquiring  it  are  of  course  quite  limited.  I  have  con- 
structed an  English  and  Turkish  dictionary  of  this  language,  con- 
taining about  ten  thousand  words  ;  and  one  of  the  German  mission- 
aries has  prepared  a  small  grammar.  These  helps,  though  imper- 
fect, will  afford  great  assistance  to  those  who  join  our  mission  from 
time  to  time,  in  acquiring  the  language. 

The  Turkish,  as  here  spoken,  differs  widely  from  the  Osmanly, 
not  only  from  the  fact  that  the  latter  is  enriched  and  polished  from 
the  stores  of  the  classical  Arabic  and  Persian,  but  also  from  the 
character  and  circumstances  of  the  people  who  use  the  former",  in 
these  regions.  The  down-cast  meinof  the  cowardly  and  oppressed 
Armenians,  is  not  more  deeply  imprinted  on  their  faces,  than  is  their 
cowering  timidity  developed  in  the  tones  of  their  voices.    And  the 


*  This  desirable  work  is  now  happily  in  efficient  progress,  particularly  in 
the  cnliglitened  vicinity  of  tiie  Russian  capital,  and  not  more  inconsequence 
of  the  cheerinff  tolerance  of  government  there,  than  of  the  christian  zeal  of 
English  and  American  philanthropists,  in  occupying  that  open  door. 


224 


PRIEST  ABRAHAM  TEACHING  ENGLISH. 


cringing  obsequiousness  of  the  artful  Persian  peasant  beams  not 
more  slyly  from  his  cunning  eye,  than  is  it  expressed  in  his  style  of 
speaking  Turkish.  The  Turkish  language  has  naturally  and  emi- 
nently the  attributes  of  authority  and  command.  It  rolls  on  in  its 
under  key,  abrupt  periods  and  falling  inflexions,  far  more  sublimely 
than  our  own  old  Saxon.  "The  Serpent  wishing  to  seduce  Eve," 
as  the  fable,  characterizing  three  of  the  Oriental  languages,  runs, 
"  made  use  of  Arabic — a  language  argumentative  and  persuasive. 
Eve  addressed  Adam  in  Persian — the  dialect  of  tenderness,  tempta- 
tion and  love.  The  angel  Gabriel,  commissioned  to  expel  them 
from  Paradise,  having  in  vain  addressed  them  in  Arabic  and  Per- 
sian, made  use  at  last  of  the  Turkish — a  language  of  menace  and 
resembling  muttering  thunder.  Hardly  had  he  began  to  speak, 
when  terror  seized  them  and  they  left  precipitately  the  abode  of  fe- 
licity."* The  Turkish  retains  these  characteristics,  at  Constanti- 
nople and  in  Asia  Minor,  where  it  is  still  the  dominant  language. 
But  farther  east,  the  rising  inflexion  and  drawling,  beseeching, 
evasii'e  tones,  prevail  in  it  to  an  extent  far  greater  than  even  in  the 
native  languages  of  the  nominal  Christians  of  those  regions,  who 
are  accustomed  to  address  their  Mohammedan  rulers  and  superiors 
in  Turkish,  but  their  own  people  respectively  in  their  mother  tongues. 
As  all  classes  in  northern  Persia  speak  Turkish,  it  is  of  the  first  im- 
portance that  missionaries  there  should  acquire  this  language  as 
soon  as  practicable  after  their  arrival. 

The  bishop  and  priest  were  not  inactive,  when  they  returned  to 
their  homes.  A  few  weeks  after  they  left  Tabreez,  a  young  Nes- 
torian,  who  happened  to  be  in  this  city  on  business,  called  on  me. 
He  told  me  that  priest  Abraham  had  commenced  teaching  English 
in  his  native  village  and  was  succeeding  very  well ;  adding,  more- 
over, that  he  was  himself  one  of  the  pupils.  I  could  not  believe  the 
statement,  as  I  had  never  intimated  to  the  priest  the  expediency  or 
practicability  of  his  accomplishing  anything  of  the  kind.  To  test 
tbe  truth  of  the  boy's  story,  however,  I  produced  an  English  spel- 
ling-book and  told  him  to  read.  I  tried  him  in  several  places,  on 
some  of  the  first  pages  of  the  book,  and  to  my  utter  astonishment, 
he  read  with  considerable  accuracy.  In  this  unexpected  develop- 
ment, I  hardly  knew  which  to  admire  most,  the  enterprise  and  suc- 
cess of  the  priest  as  a  teacher,  or  the  talents  and  perseverance  of 
the  boy  as  a  learner.  This  first  English  school  among  the  Nesto- 
rianri,  originated  by  one  of  their  own  ecclesiastics,  is,  I  trust,  a  har- 
binger of  a  brighter  day,  about  to  rise  upon  that  long  benighted 
people. 

Soon  after  our  associates  reached  Tabreez,  Dr.  Grant  went  to 
Oroomiah,  to  rent  for  us  a  house  and  make  other  arrangements 
preparatory  to  our  removal  to  that  city.  I  was  iDyself  necessarily 
detained  at  home,  to  put  our  efTects  in  portable  order  and  make 


*  Biblical  Repository  and  Quarterly  Observer,  Oct.  1836,  p.  433. 


RENTING  A  HOUSE  INTEMPERANCE. 


225 


other  preparations  at  Tabreez.  And  two  of  the  German  missiona- 
ries, Messrs.  Hoernle  and  Schneider,  happening  to  be  going  to 
Orooiniah  on  a  tour  of  observation  in  the  borders  of  Koordistan, 
kindly  engaged  to  interpret  for  Dr.  G.  and  render  him  all  other 
needed  assistance. 

Nov.  0.  Dr.  G.  reached  us  on  his  return  from  Oroomiah,  having 
been  quite  successful  in  accomplishing  the  objects  of  his  journey. 
Among  the  Nestorians,  he  met  with  the  same  kind  receplion  which 
they  manifested  to  me,  during  my  visit  among  them  the  previous 
year.  The  governor,  too,  showed  him  great  kindness.  In  addition 
to  many  polite  attentions,  his  Excellency  interested  himself  in  for- 
warding the  particular  object  of  Dr.  G's  visit ;  and,  through  their 
united  efforts  and  the  aid  of  the  German  brethren,  we  were  enabled 
to  secure  a  very  comfortable  dwelling. 

I  shall  not  find  it  more  convenient  elsewhere  than  here,  to  allude 
to  the  subject  of  intemperance  in  Persia, — particularly  as  the  fol- 
lowing statements  from  a  letter  in  answer  to  inquiries  addressed  to 
me  by  a  gentleman  in  America,  were  written  about  the  same  time 
with  the  foregoing  pages  of  this  chapter. 

"  To  the  several  points  on  which  you  request  information,  I  will 
reply  in  the  order  in  which  you  state  them.  '  What  ai-c  the  habits 
of  the  people  with  regard  to  temperance?^  While  I  search  in  vain 
among  the  people  around  me,  for  a  single  trait  that  ennobles  my 
native  country,  one  circumstance,  which  is  characteristic  alike  of 
Persia  and  America,  is  almost  daily  thrust  upon  my  view,  viz. 
beastly  intemperance.  '  What  are  the  principal  means  of  intoxica- 
tion ?  Among  lahat  classes  and  to  what  extent  does  that  vice  pre- 
vail?'' The  intoxicating  article,  most  used  here,  is  the  wine  of  the 
country,  which  is  almost  as  plentiful  and  cheap  as  the  springs  of 
water.  Another  article,  considerably  used,  is  arrak,  (Asiatic 
brandy,)  distilled  from  dried  grapes,  or  from  the  residue  after  the 
wine  is  extracted.  European  liquors  are  also  rolling  in  upon  the 
country  like  a  flood.  Our  missionary  brethren,  who  have  just  ar- 
rived, were  preceded  but  one  week  by  a  caravan,  bearing,  among 
other  poison?  of  the  kind,  eighteen  barrels  of  New  Ejigland  rum! 
What  an  indignity  cast  upon  the  poor  brutes  even  that  are  made  to 
plod  their  way  over  a  journey  of  near  seven  hundred  miles,  crossing 
almost  impassable  mountains  and  groaning  beneath  their  almost  in- 
tolerable burdens,  which  tend  only  to  degrade  the  species  that  drive 
them  incomparably  below  themselves !  I  see  no  other  article  of 
American  manufacture,  in  the  markets  here,  than  New  England 
rum.  Can  the  enterprising  of  my  country  send  to  Mohammedan 
Persia  no  better  commercial  representative  !  Well  may  the  Amer- 
ican churches  multiply  their  missionaries  to  this  country,  if  it  were 
merely  to  repair  the  evils  that  are  sown  here  by  New  England  rvm  ! 
I  may  say  in  general  that  intemperance  prevails  among  all  classes 
in  Persia.  Many — a  great  many,  of  the  Nestorians  are  intemperate  ; 
and  the  Armenians  are  still  more  fearfully  so.  The  Muhammedans 
29 


22G  EFFECT  OF  EXAMPLE  ON  THE  MUHAMMEDANS. 


too  are  becoming  intemperate.  Though  tlieir  Prophet  forbade  the 
use  of  wine,  and,  as  he  supposed,  of  all  intoxicating  drinks,  inas- 
much as  the  art  of  distillation  was  then  unknown,  still  multitudes 
in  Persia,  in  the  face  of  what  they  assert  to  be  a  divine  prohibition, 
give  themselves  up  to  habitual  intemperance.  While  they  despise 
the  christian  population,  as  they  detest  the  dogs  in  the  streets  and 
the  swine  upon  the  mountains,  they  still  shamefully  wallow  with 
these  same  nominal  Christians  in  this  filthiest  of  their  vices. 

The  extent  to  which  intemperance  prevails,  among  the  nominal 
Christians  of  this  country,  may  be  inferred  from  two  or  three  facts. 
The  Sabbath  is  particularly  devoted  to  dissipation.  The  mummery 
of  their  religious  forms  is  repeated  at  a  very  early  hour  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  the  rest  of  the  day  is  given  up,  by  the  mass,  to  festivity  and 
carousal.  During  some  of  their  numerous  fasts,  the  more  rigid 
part  abstain  from  the  use  of  wine.  But  in  anticipation  of  the  ab- 
stinence, and  to  make  up  for  it,  each  fast  is  introduced  and  followed 
by  a  drunken  revel.  And  such  is  the  impression  which  the  intem- 
perance of  the  nominal  Christians  makes  upon  their  Mijhammedan 
neighbors,  that  often  when  a  Muharamedan  is  seen  intoxicated,  his 
countrymen  tauntingly  exclaim,  that  man  has  left  Muhammed  and 
has  gone  to  Jesus  f 

Among  the  Muhammedans  also,  particularly  among  the  higher 
classes,  many  of  whom  are  becoming  lax  and  skeptical  in  regard 
to  the  claims  of  their  religion,  intemperance  prevails  to  an  appalling 
extent.  1  sometimes  see  respectable  merchants  falling  down  in  the 
streets,  or  reeling  in  the  arms  of  their  companions.  Soon  after 
Dr.  Grant's  arrival,  I  accompanied  him  to  the  palace  to  introduce 
him  to  the  governor  of  this  city.  His  Excellency  was  ill — broken 
down  by  hard  drinking — and  he  requested  the  Dr.  to  do  something 
for  him.  Dr.  G.  examined  his  case  and  made  out  a  prescription, 
directing,  that  while  taking  the  medicine,  he  should  eat  no  stimu- 
lating food  and  drink  no  wine.  The  governor  replied,  T  cannot 
go  a  day  without  my  wine.  This  poor  man  is  young,  amiable  and 
intelligent ;  but  like  numbers  of  his  rank  in  Persia,  is  a  self-immolated 
victim  to  the  bloody  shrine  of  Bacchus. 

'  Is  intemperance  on  the  increase,  or  has  it  within  a  few  years 
been  diminished?'  The  evil  has  of  late  rapidly  increased  in  Persia, 
particularly  since  the  importation  of  European  liquors  commenced. 
The  Muhammedans  make  no  virtue  of  moderate  drinking.  They 
regard  it  as  the  peculiar  privilege  of  Christians,  to  drink  alcohol, 
and  think  they  live  greatly  below  their  privilege,  if  they  fail  to 
drink  it  to  intoxication.  And  whenever  they  themselves  break  over 
their  scruples  and  fall  into  the  use  of  intoxicating  liquors  at  all,  they 
act  in  full  consistency  with  these  principles-  The  rapid  increase 
of  intemperance  among  the  Muhammedans  is  the  consequence. 

'  What  pffer.ts  have  intoxicating  liquors  on  the  health,  character 
and  condition  of  the  people?^  The  effects  here  are  much  the  same 
as  in  America  and  other  countries.    They  destroy  health — break 


EVILS  HOPE  REMOVAL. 


227 


the  heart — beggar  families — multiply  vices — excite  quarrels — shed 
blood  and  brutalize  the  species.  I  was  deeply  affected,  on  one  oc- 
casion, by  a  simple  story  from  my  Armenian  servant  which  may 
illustrate  this  point.  I  was  walking  out  a  little  distance  from  the 
city,  and  the  servant  was  with  me.  As  we  approached  some  beau- 
tiful gardens,  I  observed  that  he  began  to  weep.  I  inquired  the 
cause,  and  he  answered  me  as  follows :  '  Sir,  I  have  not  come  tliis 
road  before  for  six  years;  and  it  always  makes  me  weep  to  come 
here.  My  father  once  owned  those  fine  gardens.  He  drank  much 
wine.  It  made  him  a  fool.  He  got  into  a  quarrel  and  killed  a 
Mussulman.  He  was  shut  up  in  prison — came  near  losing  his  life 
— and  escaped  only  by  giving  the  governor  all  his  property.  Be- 
fore, he  was  rich.  He  owned  a  good  house  and  four  horses  and 
these  gardens,  and  kept  two  servants.  Now,  we  have  all  of  us,  my 
father,  niy  wife,  my  child  and  myself,  nothing  to  buy  bread  and 
clothes  with,  but  the  five  dollars  a  month  which  you  pay  me  for 
living  with  you.'  By  the  time  his  story  was  told,  his  heart  was 
melted.  Yet  such  are  not  strange  tales  in  Persia,  any  more  than 
in  America." 

Still  there  is  hope  even  for  Persia.  One  of  the  most  animating 
scenes  that  I  have  witnessed  since  my  return  to  America,  was  the 
Washingtoniaa  celebration,  in  May  1842,  in  Boston.  As  I  stood 
upon  the  beautiful  common,  and  watched  the  vast  procession, 
moving  on  with  manly  step  to  the  martial  airs,  and  read  the  various 
appropriate  mottoes  on  their  shining  banners,  a  thrill  of  moral 
sublimity  kindled  in  my  bosom  that  I  had  seldom  if  ever  experi- 
enced. I  was  saddened,  however,  when  I  thought  of  Persia  in 
contrast;  but  again  I  was  cheered;  for  in  that  procession  I  saw  a 
pledge,  as  I  thought,  that  Boston,  at  least,  would  inflict  on  Persia 
little  more  New  England  rum ;  and  round  the  world  the  star  of 
temperance  moves. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

REMOVAL  TO  OROOMIaH. 

Having  put  all  our  effects  in  portable  order  during  the  previous 
week,  we  started,  Monday  morning,  Nov.  16th,  for  Oroomiah.  Dr. 
Grant  had  preceded  us  several  days,  to  see  that  our  dwelling  should 
be  in  a  habitable  state  on  our  arrival,  leaving  Mrs.  G.  to  accompany 
Mrs.  P.  and  myself  The  German  brethren  were  still  at  Oroomiah, 
and  had  had  the  kindness  to  superintend  some  repairs  for  us.  The 
weather  was  delightful.    We  had  long  apprehended  the  commence- 


228 


AVNOTANCE  WELCOME  NATIVE  TABLE. 


ment  of  the  autumnal  rains;  but  the  Lord  seemed  propitiously  td 
smile  upon  us,  in  granting  us  fair  weather  at  this  late  season,  for 
our  removal.  The  two  German  missionaries  then  at  Tabreez,  and 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Nisbet,  rode  out  six  miles  with  us.  There  we  bade 
adieu  to  these  dear  brethren  and  friends  with  whom  we  had  often 
taken  sweet  counsel,  and  hastened  on  our  way.  We  had  started  so 
late  that  we  did  not  reach  our  stopping-place,  Aii  Shah,  six  fursakhs 
from  Tabreez,  until  8  o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  last  part  of 
our  ride  was  very  dark  and  unpleasant.  I  sent  our  attendant  for- 
ward to  procure  us  lodgings,  in  which  he  succeeded  ;  but  our  beds 
and  other  effects  did  not  arrive  until  10  o'clock.  The  ladks  were 
extremely  tired,  and  felt  the  tardiness  of  the  muleteer,  more  than 
the  rudeness  of  our  accommodations. 

Nov.  17.  We  started  about  8  o'clock  and  rode  six  fiirsakhs  to 
the  village  of  Shekli-walee.  Here  we  could  find  no  lodgings  but  a 
stable,  and  Mrs.  P.  and  Mrs.  G.  were  so  annoyed  by  vermin  as  to 
be  unable  to  sleep.  We  rose  at  12  o'clock  and  sat  up  the  rest  of 
the  night,  diverting  ourselves,  as  well  as  we  could,  in  prosecuting 
the  warfare  which  the  fleas  had  conniienced. 

Nov.  18.  We  were  on  our  way  at  5  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
rode  six  fursakhs  on  the  bank  of  the  beautiful  lake,  and  stopped  for 
the  night  at  Yavshanlee.  This  Muhammedan  village  of  about 
forty  families,  takes  its  name  from  Yavshan,  a  weed  which  is 
much  used  for  heating  ovens.  We  found  more  comfortable  lodg- 
ings than  at  our  stopping-place,  the  previous  night,  though  there 
too  we  were  much  annoyed  by  vermin. 

Nov.  19.  We  again  rode  six  fQrsakhs,  crossed  the  mountain 
ridge  which  separates  the  district  of  Salmas  from  Oroomiah,  and 
reached  Gavalan,  the  village  of  Mar  Yohannan,  the  bishop  who  had 
resided  with  me  at  Tabreez.  Our  attendant,  who  is  a  nephew  of 
the  bishop  and  belongs  in  Gavalan,  rode  forward  to  announce  our 
coming.  And  about  a  mile  and  a  half  before  reaching  the  village, 
the  bishop  came,  full  gallop,  to  meet  us ;  and  as  we  advanced  far- 
ther, nearly  all  the  inhabitants  marched  out  in  procession,  to  wel- 
come our  arrival.  Their  repeated  assurances  of  welcotnc — welcome 
— were  long  and  loud.  "  Were  the  whole  world  to  be  given  them," 
they  said,  "  their  joy  on  that  account  could  not  equal  that  created 
by  our  coming."  The  bishop  conducted  us  to  his  own  house, 
where  a  large  room  was  neatly  spread  with  carpets  for  our  recep- 
tion. Everything,  in  the  humble  dwelling,  appeared  very  cleanly, 
and  much  care  and  labor  to  make  it  so  had  obviously  been  bestowed, 
in  anticipation  of  our  arrival.  A  dinner  of  bread,  butter,  cheese 
and  raisins  was  immediately  spread  for  us  upon  a  Nestorian  table, 
which  is  a  wooden  tray,  or  rather  a  waiter,  from  three  to  five  feet 
loner,  and  two  or  two  and  a  half  feet  wide.  This  article  is  thin  and 
light,  with  sloping  edges,  three  or  four  inches  broad,  sometimes 
tastefully  carved,  and  if  it  is  kept  clean,  it  renders  a  meal,  in  ap- 
pearance, not  uninviting.    The  lighter  parts  of  the  meal  are  brought 


A  SCHOLAR  IN  ENGLISH  ENTERTAINMENT.  229 


in  upon  the  waiter,  but  the  more  substantial  and  less  portable  ones 
■ — particularly  soups — are  placed  upon  it  afterward.  A  row  of  the 
thin  cakes  of  bread  is  spread  around  the  border,  about  one  half  of 
each  lying  upon  the  waiter  and  the  other  half  lapping  over  upon  the 
carpet.  At  the  close  of  the  meal,  this  table  with  its  remaining  con- 
tents, is  removed  by  an  attendant,  and  the  company  retain  their  sit- 
ting posture  undisturbed.  The  Muhammedan  peasants,  as  well  as 
the  Nestorians,  use  this  wooden  waiter  in  place  of  a  table. 

While  at  dinner,  the  bishop  called  his  brother,  a  lad  of  fourteen 
or  fifteen,  to  the  table  to  entertain  us  by  reading  English.  The 
boy  took  a  New  Testament  from  his  pocket  and  read  to  us  the 
third  chapter  of  Matthew,  as  well  as  many  boys  in  America  could 
have  read  it.  We  were  alike  surprised  and  gratified  by  this  exhibi- 
tion. The  boy  had  never  received  any  English  instruction  except 
what  the  bishop  had  given  him,  after  he  and  the  priest  returned 
from  Tabreez,  where  they  had  resided  eight  or  nine  months 'in  my 
family.  Both  the  bishop  and  priest,  as  has  before  been  mentionedj 
on  reaching  home,  commenced,  each  in  his  native  village,  giving 
English  Instruction;  aud  this  boy's  proficiency  was  a  specimen  of 
the  success  that  had  attended  their  experiment.  That  the  Nesto- 
rians have  naturally  fine  talents  and  a  strong  desire  to  learn,  we 
have  full  demonstration.  "This  boy,"  said  the  bishop,  as  his 
brother  closed  his  book,  "  I  shall  give  to  Dr.  Grant.  I  wish  hira 
to  learn  English  and  study  medicine."  He  is  a  bright,  amiable  lad, 
and  Dr.  Grant  soon  took  him  into  his  family. 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon,  many  Nestorians  called  to  wel- 
come us  personally  to  Oroomiah,  with  whom  we  had  friendly  con- 
versation. At  evenimg,  we  spread  our  fare  upon  the  native  tray  or 
waiter,  which  I  have  mentioned  ;  and  this,  for  our  convenience,  was 
placed  upon  a  stool  which  we  use  on  the  road  for  a  table  ;  and 
couches  and  cushions  were  ranged  around  h  in  the  absence  of  chairs. 

  O 

The  bishop  had  ordered  a  lamb  from  his  father's  flock  and  di- 
rected our  attendant  to  cook  it  for  the  occasion.  A  considerable 
number  of  the  villagers,  who  were  present,  were  invited  to  partake 
with  us,  at  our  evening  meal.  And  to  crown  the  feast,  just  as  we 
were  sitting  down,  Messrs.  Hoernle  and  Schneider  rode  up  to  the 
door,  on  their  return  from  their  e.xcnrsion  into  the  borders  of  Koor- 
distan.  We  passed  the  evening  delightfully  with  these  missionary 
acquaintances  and  Nestorian  friends.  The  bishop  and  his  father 
importuned  us  to  remain  with  them  two  or  three  days  ;  but  our  ap- 
prehension of  rain,  which  the  clouds  had  for  some  time  been  threat- 
ening, nwde  us  anxious  to  complete  the  remaining  day's  ride  to  the 
city.  We  satisfied  them  by  proposing  to  visit  them  at  some  future 
time,  when  we  should  be  comfortably  settled  at  our  home. 

We  rose  two  or  three  hours  before  day,  Nov.  20th,  breakfasted, 
and  set  off  for  Oroomiah,  accompanied  by  the  bishop.  Eight  fur- 
sakhs,  almost  forty  miles,  lay  between  us  and  the  city.  Just  before 
day,  our  worst  apprehensions  respecting  the  weather,  began  to  be 


230 


A  RAINY  DAY  ARRIVAL  AT  OROOMIAH. 


realized.  It  commenced  raining  violently,  and  continued,  with  lit- 
tle cessation,  until  night.  The  wind  blew  the  rain  directly  into  our 
faces,  with  the  violence  of  a  tempest.  The  ladies — particularly 
Mrs.  Grant — happened  to  be  well  provided  with  cloaks,  and  by 
carefully  wrapping  themselves  and  allowing  their  horses  to  choose 
their  way — following  the  bishop's  before  and  driven  by  me  behind — 
they  succeeded  in  keeping  comfortable  several  hours.  I  had  no 
umbrella  with  me  and  nothing  on  my  head  to  ward  off  the  rain  but 
my  brimless  Persian  cap,  which  is  not  the  least  shield  against  sun  or 
storm.  When  we  reached  the  city,  I  was  drenched  through  and 
through  and  chilled  almost  to  inaction.  The  ladies  were  also  quite 
wet — particularly  Mrs.  P. — though  much  less  chilled  than  myself. 
But  through  divine  mercy,  none  of  us  suffered  serious  inconve- 
nience from  that  day's  exposure.  We  afterward  even  recognized  in 
it  a  providential  favor.  We  had  previously  felt  much  solicitude, 
respecting  the  notoriety  that  must  attend  our  approach  and  en- 
trance into  the  city  in  fair  weather.  Europeans — ladies  especially — 
are  rare  curiosities  there.  And  I  had  resolved,  for  the  purpose  of 
avoiding  publicity  as  much  as  possible,  to  linger  near  the  city  until 
sun-set,  and  enter  it  in  the  evening.  In  that  case,  however,  the  gates 
would  be  closed,  and  much  trouble  might  be  encountered  in  gain- 
ing admission.  But  this  rainy  day  entirely  relieved  us  on  the  sub- 
ject. We  entered  the  city  and  reached  our  house  without  the  notice 
of  an  individual. 

So  tardy  were  the  workmen,  that  the  united  exertions  of  the  Ger- 
man brethren  and  Dr.  Grant  had  been  unable  to  secure  the  comple- 
tion of  a  single  apartment  for  our  reception.  We  reached  the  city 
towards  evening  and  were  introduced  into  an  open  room,  where 
some  joiners  were  at  work  ;  and  we  sat  down  with  them  upon  the 
shavings.*  Our  muleteer  and  servant  lingered  behind,  and  did  not 
make  their  appearance  till  the  next  day.  Intimidated  by  the  fury 
of  the  storm,  they  turned  off  to  a  village,  where  they  made  them- 
selves comfortable,  and  remained  there  over  night.  Our  loads  all 
being  with  thera,  we  had  neither  changes  of  raiment,  provisions,  nor 
bedding.  We  built  a  large  fire  from  the  shavings,  by  which  we 
dried  ourselves,  and  sent  one  of  the  workmen  to  market  for  provi- 
sions. He  brought  to  us  bread  and  kcbdh,  which  is  meat  cut  up 
into  rnouthfuls  and  roasted  upon  spits.  The  bread  being  the  com- 
mon Persian  cakes,  two  and  a  half  or  three  feet  long,  a  foot  wide, 
and  perhaps  a  twelfth  of  an  inch  thick,  contained  the  meat,  when 
delivered  to  us,  rolled  up  within  it,  which  we  had  only  to  unroll, 


*  Joiners,  in  Persia,  always  sit,  when  they  work,  like  tailors  in  America, 
holding  thuir  work  in  the  lap  ;  and  in  place  of  a  work-bench  and  vice,  they 
support  tlieir  boards  and  mouldings,  while  planing  and  jointing  them,  with 
their  feet.  In  general,  we  may  say  that  orientals  are  not  more  the  antipodes 
of  occidentals  in  tlieir  location,  tiian  in  their  modes  of  doing  things.  The  ma- 
tron, for  in.stance,  in  knitting  a  stocking,  commences  at  the  toe  ;  and  the  trav- 
eller mounts  his  liorsc  upon  the  off-side. 


pilgrim's  day  STAFF  LOCATION. 


231 


and  the  bread  served  us  at  once  as  a  table,  cloth,  plate,  and  a  sub- 
stantial part  of  our  meal.  We  were  hungry  and  ate  with  an  excel- 
lent relish.  And  at  night,  we  lay  down  upon  the  shavings  on  the 
earth-floor,  spread  over  us  our  cloaks  which  we  had  dried  by  the 
fire,  and  slept  very  sweetly  till  morning ;  for  we  were  withal  ex- 
tremely tired.  Such  was  our  introduction  to  Oroomiah  ;  and  it 
was  a  pleasant  one  ;  for  we  were  heartily  glad  and  thankful  to  find 
any  shelter  from  tiie  tempestuous  storm  ;  and  Mrs.  P.  and  myself, 
not  the  least  so,  after  more  than  two  years'  journeyings  and  remo- 
vals, to  find  a  place  we  could  call  our  home.  With  grateful  recol- 
lection, we  still  annually  observe  the  20th  of  November  as  our  Pil- 
grhii's  day. 

As  I  rode  up  to  our  gate  on  our  arrival,  and  dismounted,  I  drop- 
ped a  valued  walking-stick,  that  I  might  help  the  ladies  from  their 
horses.  The  stick  was  mounted  with  a  silver  head,  and  engraved 
with  my  name,  having  been  given  me  by  a  friend  in  America  as  a 
token,  and  I  had  carried  it  in  my  hand  during  all  my  travels.  After 
assisting  the  ladies  to  dismount,  1  turned  round  for  ray  stick  and,  lo, 
it  was  gone.  It  was  never  returned,  being  taken,  I  suppose,  by  the 
workmen  who  were  repairing  our  house,  and  had  issued  forth  to 
welcome  us.  While  I  regretted  the  loss  of  the  staff,  and  the  incident 
did  not  impress  me  very  favorably  with  the  honesty  of  the  people 
amon^  whom  we  had  come  to  live,  a  good  German  missionary,  at 
Tabreez,  in  a  letter,  after  hearing  of  the  circumstance,  solaced  me 
by  interpreting  it  as  a  very  favorable  omen ;  viz.  that  our  wander~ 
ings  were  then  at  an  end. 

Our  house  was  a  mud-walled  structure,  quite  dilapidated,  but 
comfortable  when  repaired.  And  it  was  our  good  fortune  to  secure 
a  location  in  the  most  pleasant  and  healthful  part  of  the  city,  while 
the  country  around,  as  I  have  before  mentioned,  is  one  of  the  most 
charming  on  which  the  sun  ever  shone.  Our  premises,  moreover, 
are  very  favorably  situated  for  our  work,  being  just  on  the  dividing 
line  between  the  Miihammedans  and  Nestorians,  and  readily  acces- 
sible to  both  classes. 

Nov.  21.  Was  as  clear  and  bright  a  day  as  though  a  cloud  had 
not  darkened  the  heavens  at  Oroomiah  that  season.  About  9 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  our  muleteer  and  servant  arrived.  I  inqui- 
red of  the  servant  why  he  had  thus  lingered,  leaving  us  without  beds 
and  other  necessaries.  "I  (izcti  (iildim)  yesterday  in  the  rain  be- 
fore we  stopped.  Sir,"  was  his  pathetic  Persian  reply, — a  reason 
which  I  of  course  felt  bound  to  regard  as  an  ample  apology.  The 
muleteer  had  dropped  several  of  my  loads  into  the  streams  on  the 
way,  which  were  then  much  swollen  by  the  rain.  Many  of  my 
books,  pamphlets  and  maps,  as  well  as  other  valuables,  were  satura- 
ted with  water  and  much  injured.  I  spent  most  of  the  day  in  dry- 
ing them  on  the  pavement  of  our  court,  in  the  bright  sun. 

Early  in  the  morning,  the  governor  sent  his  feraj-bdskee — chifij" 
officer — to  congratulate  us  on  our  arrival,  proposing  also  that  his 


232 


WELCOME  FROM  THE  GOVERNOR  JOHN. 


cousin — a  Khan — should  come  immediately  in  his  Excellency's 
stead,  and  welcome  us  in  a  more  formal  manner.  We  were  obliged 
to  request  the  governor  to  defer  the  Khan's  visit,  until  we  should 
have  a  room  in  which  to  receive  him,  the  only  one  we  then  had, 
and  that  not  completed,  being  nearly  filled  with  ourselves  and  our 
boxes.  Almost  numberless  Nestorians  called  also  to  welcome  us  to 
Oroomiah  and  to  our  missionary  work,  whose  animated  counte- 
nances, together  in  some  instances  with  their  tears,  attested  the  sin- 
cerity of  their  professions. 

Nov.  22.  Was  our  first  Sabbath  at  Oroomiah.  The  bishop  and 
priest,  who  had  lived  in  my  family  at  Tabreez,  were  with  us  at 
breakfast.  The  bishop  inquired  whether  we  had  had  our  morning 
worship.  I  answered  him  in  the  affirmative,  and  asked  him  wheth- 
er he  wished  to  attend  worship  with  us ;  "  To  be  sure,"  said  he ; 
"I  wish  always  to  unite  with  you  in  your  devotions."  Both  the 
bishop  and  priest  were  with  us  at  our  religious  meeting.  They  are 
beginning  to  speak  English  pretty  well.  They  appear  much  attach- 
ed to  us  and  seem  to  take  it  for  granted  that  they  are  to  live  in  our 
families.  They  were  now  of  great  service  to  us  in  assisting  us  to 
get  our  houses  repaired  and  arrangements  made  for  winter ;  besides, 
they  had  become  so  much  more  intelligent  than  the  mass  around 
us,  that  we  found  them  very  agreeable  companions. 

Nov.  23.  We  received  many  presents  from  Nestorians,  both  of 
the  city  and  the  neighboring  villages.  Mukaddasi,*  (pilgrim,  i.  e. 
to  Jerusalem,)  among  the  rest,  came  from  Geog-tapa,  the  village  of 
priest  Abraham,  and  brought  with  him  his  little  son  whom  he  had 
presented  to  me  on  my  visit  at  Oroomiah  the  previous  year.  "  This 
child,"  said  the  old  man  (putting  the  boy's  hand  into  mine),  "is  no 
longer  mine ;  he  is  yours ;  he  is  no  longer  Nestorian ;  he  is  En- 
glish ;  his  name  is  no  longer  Yohannan  ;  it  is  John."  He  then  told 
his  son  to  read  to  me  in  my  own  language.  And  the  boy  took  from 
his  pocket  a  New  Testament  and  read  the  third  chapter  of  Matthew, 
(which  seemed  to  have  been  the  drilling  lesson,)  in  an  admirable 
manner.  He  is  one  whom  priest  Abraham  had  been  instructing, 
after  his  return  from  Tabreez.  I  took  him  immediately  into  my 
family  and  he  has  proved  to  be  an  excellent  scholar. 

Nov.  24.  The  governor  again  sent  to  us,  proposing  that  his  cou- 
sin shouW  call  on  us  and  communicate  his  Excellency's  formal  con- 
gratulations ;  but  we  were  still  obliged  to  defer  the  visit  till  to-mor- 
row, for  want  of  a  place  in  which  to  receive  so  distinguished  a  per- 
sonage. The  next  day,  the  Khan  came  to  visit  us.  He  is  an 
accomplished  Persian  and  said  all  the  fine  things  of  which  Persians 
are  so  capable, — in  praise  of  the  governor  who,  he  stated,  belongs 
to  one  of  the  most  renowned  families  in  the  empire  and  is  the  chief 
of  the  AflTshar  tribe,  and  respecting  the  universal  joy,  which,  he  said, 
is  spreiid  throughout  Oroomiah  by  our  arrival.  In  relation  to  us, 
among  other  things  he  remarked,  "  your  coming  here  is  like  the 
sun's  rising  upon  the  world;  hitherto,  darkness  has  prevaile4;  but 


*  Literally,  the  holy. 


VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR  THE  BlSHOP's  PARENTS.  233 

now,  the  light  has  come."  The  Khan,  doubtless,  alluded  in  his  use 
of  this  figure,  to  the  prospect  of  temporal  benefit  from  Dr.  Grant's 
practice  in  medicine  and  my  giving  secular  instruction.  But  we 
hope  and  trust  that  his  remark  will  prove  prophetic,  in  a  liigher  and 
more  glorious  sense. 

Nov.  29.  We  visited  the  governor.  His  E.\cellency  lives  in 
more  princely  state  than  any  man  in  Azerbijan,  unless  it  be  the 
prince-governor  at  Tabreez.  He  referred  to  my  visit  here  Inst  year, 
and  now  welcomed  me  as  a  citizen  with  great  cordiality.  He  ex- 
patiated at  considerable  length  to  the  large  train  around  him,  on 
the  important  benefits  which  he  said  he  was  sure  would  result  from 
our  coming  to  Oroomiah.  He  inquired  of  Mar  Yohannaii,  who  was 
with  us,  whether  I,  whom  he  dignified  by  the  title  of  the  Malum, 
ma.ster, (teacher,)  had  yet  commenced  giving  instruction.  The  bishop 
told  him,  that  it  was  my  intention  to  do  so,  as  soon  as  I  shall  have 
prepared  a  school-room.  The  governor  replied,  that  he  hoped  I 
should  by  all  means  be  ready  to  commence  soon ;  that  I  must  not 
be  permitted  to  remain  idle,  where  so  much  is  to  be  done.  He  ap- 
peared to  take  it  for  granted,  that  our  efforts  are  to  be  directed  to 
the  instruction  and  benefit  of  the  Muhammedans,  as  well  as  the 
Nestorians.  And  after  making  all  due  abatement  in  this  conversa- 
tion of  the  governor,  for  the  much  which  was  doubtle.ss  mere  Per- 
sian talk,  enough  remains  to  convince  me,  that  he  heartily  wel- 
comes our  arrival. 

Nov.  29.  The  governor  sent  to  inquire  after  our  welfare,  as  he 
is  accustomed  frequently  to  do.  Many  Nestorians  also  called  to 
visit  us — some  of  them  from  a  considerable  distance.  We  discour- 
aged their  coming  on  the  Sabbath,  which  appears  to  be  their  visit- 
ing day. 

Dec.  2.  Mar  Yohannan's  father  and  mother  came  to  visit  us, 
from  their  village,  a  distance  of  near  forty  miles.  I  have  never  be- 
fore seen  in  Persia  a  native  accompany  his  wife  abroad.  The 
bishop's  father  was,  doubtless,  prompted  to  do  so,  by  impressions 
received  through  his  son,  while  the  latter  lived  with  us  at  Tabreez. 
What  a  change  would  there  be  in  the  prospects  of  this  country, 
could  the  worth  and  proper  rank  of  females  be  generally  understood 
and  recognized  !  The  bishop's  parents  are  venerable  old  people 
and  very  kind  in  their  attentions  to  us.  They  now  brought  us  pre- 
sents of  excellent  cheese,  almonds  and  raisins  of  their  own  produc- 
tion. They  dined  with  us ;  and  though  they  had  never  before  at- 
tempted to  use  knives  and  forks,  nor  even  seen  them,  they  succeed- 
ed very  well. 

Dec.  3.  The  Melik — governor— -Geog-tapa  called  to  invhe 
us  to  attend  a  wedding  at  his  village.  A  blacksmith,  an  ingenious 
fellow  who  had  become  acquainted  with  me  by  making  for  us  a 
door-latch,  called  also  at  my  study  and  was  much  amused  with  my 
American  steam-stove.  "It  is,"  said  he,  "  a  wonderful  thing, — at 
once  a  fine  vapor  bath;  a  tea-urn;  and  a  delightful  fire-place."  He 
30 


234       WEDDING  SALUTATION  IN  ENGLISH  ^BUFFALO. 

proposed  to  try  to  make  something  like  it,  which,  however,  will  be 
difficult,  as  the  art  of  casting  iron  is  not  understood  by  the  Persians. 

Dec.  7.  About  8  o'clock  in  the  morning,  horses  arrived  from 
G^og-tapa,  which  were  sent  to  carry  Mrs.  Perkins  and  Mrs.  Grant 
to  the  wedding.  Geog-tapa  is  a  large  village,  about  five  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  city,  inhabited  entirely  by  Nestorians.  And  as  a  fam- 
ily of  meliks,  claiming  to  be  descended  from  ancient  kings,  reside 
there,  it  is  regarded  as  a  kind  of  Nestorian  metropolis  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Oroomiah.  Almost  every  day  after  our  arrival,  we  had 
received  invitations  from  different  villagers,  besides  the  formal  one 
from  the  chief  man,  to  attend  the  approaching  wedding ;  and  our 
presence  was  evidently  anticipated  with  no  small  degree  of  interest. 

We  started  about  9  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Mar  Yohannan  ac- 
companying us.  The  weather  was  mild  and  very  fine, — almost  like 
a  morning  of  September  in  America,  though  the  tops  of  the  lower 
mountains  were  clad  by  a  recent  fall  of  snow.  As  we  approached 
the  village,  a  great  concourse  came  out  with  trumpets  and  drums  to 
escort  us.  "  WrJcome,  welcome,"  echoing  from  the  multitude  of 
voices  and  mingling  with  the  rattle  of  their  rude  music  made  the 
whole  region  resound.  And  not  the  least  agreeable  circumstance 
was  the  frequent  salutation  of  "good  morning,  "  from  numerous  boys 
belonging  to  the  English  school  which  priest  Abraham  had  opened 
in  this,  his  native  village.  After  passing  half  way  around  the  vil- 
lage, in  a  crowd  of  men,  women  and  children,  so  dense  as  often 
completely  to  hedge  up  our  horses'  way,  we  reached  the  house  of  the 
chief  man,  where  the  wedding  was  to  be  celebrated.  The  bride- 
groom, on  the  occasion,  was  his  adopted  son.  A  fat  buffalo*  had 
just  been  knocked  down  before  the  door.  When  we  entered  the 
house,  the  bride  stood  like  a  veiled  statue  in  the  farther  corner  of 
a  very  large  room,  which  was  soon  filled  to  overflowing  by  the  rush- 
ing multitude, — the  bridegroom  with  red  feathers  in  his  cap  among 
the  rest, — who  had  been  out  to  welcome  our  comincr. 

It  is  the  practice  of  the  Nestorians  to  have  the  marriage  ceremo- 
ny performed  in  their  churches  and  very  early — commencing  at 
least  an  hour  before  day — because  the  services  are  long,  and  the 
nuptial  parties  and  all  the  ecclesiastics,  who  participate  in  the  per- 
formance, are  obliged  to  abstain  from  food,  on  the  wedding  day,  un- 
til after  the  ceremony.  But  in  this  instance,  to  gratify  us,  they  had 
deferred  the  marriage  till  our  arrival — 10  o'clock,  A.  M. — and  in- 
stead of  assen)bling  in  the  church,  they  had  for  our  better  conve- 
nience prepared  to  perform  the  service  at  this  dwelling. 

As  the  crowd  drew  up  around  us,  in  anticipation  of  the  com- 
mencement of  the  ceremony-,  Mar  Yohannan  gave  direction,  that  in- 
asmuch as  strangers  were  present,  they  should  all  be  careful  to  make 
much  less  noise  than  is  usual  on  such  occasions.    Priest  Abraham 


*  Tlie  buffalo  is  domesticated  in  Persia — is  worked  like  the  ox — and  ita 
flesh  aad  the  milk  of  the  female  are  used  as  food. 


WAR  Er.rA3  .  A  Nt.STORIAN  BISHOP. 


LENGTH  OF  THE  SERVICE  CONTRAST. 


235 


was  the  principal  officiator,  but  was  assisted  by  two  other  priests 
and  several  deacons  of  the  village,  who  joined  with  him  in  reading 
the  prayers  and  select  portions  of  Scripture — such  as  the  account  of 
Abrahanfi's  sending  after  Rebecca  for  his  son  Isaac,  Jacob's  serving 
for  Rachel  and  all  the  other  venerable  scripture  authorities  that  en- 
ter into  their  marriage  service ;  the  whole  of  which  would  doubtless 
be  more  interesting,  if  not  more  instructive,  were  it  not  read  in  an 
unknown  tongue.  The  bride  retained  her  place  veiled  in  the  far- 
ther corner  of  the  room  about  an  hour,  the  bridegroom  meanwhile 
standing  near  the  officiating  ecclesiastics.  They  then  arrived  at  a 
point  where  hands  were  to  be  joined,  this  being  made  known  by  the 
ecclesiastics  who  alone  understood  the  service.  Several  women  in- 
stantly caught  hold  of  the  still  veiled  bride  and  pulled  her  by  main 
strength  half  across  the  room  toward  her  intended  husband  ;  and 
several  men  at  the  same  time  seized  the  bridegroom  who  was  at  first 
equally  resolute  in  his  modest  resistance,  but  finally  yielded  and  ad- 
vanced toward  the  bride.  A  smart  struggle  ensued  in  his  efforts  to 
secure  her  hand ;  but  he  at  length  succeeded,  and  both,  with  great 
apparent  submission,  then  took  a  standing  attitude  near  the  officiat- 
ing clergy.  The  regular  routine  of  reading  occupied  another  hour 
or  more,  when,  first  the  bishops  and  after  them  the  multitude — we 
of  course  among  the  rest — advanced  and  kissed'the  married  pair. 

In  the  course  of  Mar  Yohannan's  visit  in  America,  a  clergyman 
with  whom  we  passed  a  Sabbath,  had  an  application  to  marry  a  cou- 
ple at  his  dwelling  a  few  moments  before  the  bell  rung  for  a  third 
meeting.  He  performed  the  ceremony  in  our  presence,  with  all  due 
solemnity  of  course,  but  in  a  formula  so  comprehensive  and  brief 
that  he  occupied,  besides  his  short  prayer,  I  think  only  a  minute  and 
a  half  The  bishop,  remembering  the  Nestorian  marriage  service, 
by  way  of  contrast,  humorously  asked,  "  Do  you  marry  people  on 
rail-roads  too  ?"  I  regretted  that  my  esteemed  ministerial  brother 
had  not — at  least  in  that  instance  for  the  sake  of  the  bishop — at- 
tached to  his  marriage  formula  a  small  quota  of  the  length  of  which 
the  Nestorians  have  so  much  to  spare. 

During  the  services  at  Geog-tapa,  Mar  Elias,  the  aged  bishop 
resident  in  that  village,  came  in.  He  saluted  us  in  English,  shak- 
ing- hands  with  us — which  orientals  never  do  among  themselves — 
and  repeating  to  each  of  us,  good  morning:  I  was  much  gratified 
to  meet  such  a  welcome  from  Mar  Elias.  His  cautious  distance, 
when  I  first  met  with  him  the  year  before,  arose  mainly,  I  believe, 
from  his  fear  that  I  was  an  emissary  of  Rome.  His  evident  delight, 
in  catching  and  nsing  a  few  phrases  of  English,  as  is  also  the  case 
with  multitudes,  is  very  gratifying,  as  an  index  of  their  interest  in 
us  and  our  object.  Mar  Elias  took  his  seat  by  my  side,  and  often 
translated  to  me  in  a  whisper  parts  of  the  service  which,  had  I  been 
far  more  familiar  with  the  language,  I  should  as  little  have  under- 
stood, so  rapid  and  unintelligible  was  the  manner  in  which  the  whole 
was  recited. 


236 


WINES- 


;  BETROTHAL- 


,  PURCHASE  or  WIVES. 


After  the  services  were  closed,  the  married  pair  and  the  officiat- 
ing ecclesiastics,  who  had  till  then — near  1  o'clock  in  the  afternoon 
— eaten  nothing  that  day,  retired  to  take  some  refreshment.  A  ta- 
ble was  also  spread  before  us,  and  wine  was  passed  among  the  mul- 
titude. Conversation  at  length  becoming  lively,  Mar  Elias,  as  if 
from  a  knowledge  of  our  views  on  the  subject  of  temperance,  said  to 
me,  "  Our  country  abounds  in  wine,  and  my  people  are  apt  to  drink 
more  than  they  ought.  I  tell  them  to  drink  little  and  talk  slow  on 
such  occasions,  but  they  will  not  listen  to  me."  There  was,  how- 
ever, in  this  instance,  very  little  that  was  boisterous,  considering  the 
large  concourse  assembled,  and  1  saw  no  one  intoxicated,  from  the 
liberal  supply  of  wine. 

Inquiries  have  often  been  proposed  to  me,  on  the  subject  of  the 
wines  in  Persia  ;  and  I  may  here,  as  appropriately  as  any  where,  state 
the  facts  in  the  case.  The  juice  of  the  grape  is  used  in  three  ways 
in  Persia.  When  simply  expressed,  it  is  called  sweet,  i.  e.  S7veet  li- 
quor. It  is  not  drunk  in  that  state,  nor  regarded  as  fit  for  use,  any 
more  than  new  unsettled  cider  at  the  press  in  America;  nor  is  it 
even  called  wine,  until  it  is  fermented.  A  second  and  very  extensive 
use  of  the  juice  of  the  grape  is  the  syrup,  made  from  boiling  it  from 
this  sweet  state,  which  reserhbles  our  molasses  and  is  used  in  the 
same  way  for  sweetening,  but  is  nevel"  used  as  a  drink.  This  is  in 
fact  neither  more  nor  less  than  oriental  molasses.  The  third  use 
of  the  juice  of  the  grape  is  the  distillation  of  it  into  arrak,  or  Asiat- 
ic brandy.  The  wines  of  Persia  are  in  general  much  lighter  than 
those  of  Europe;  but  they  are  still  always  intoxicating.  In  making 
these  statements,  I  throw  down  no  gauntlet  for  controversy  on  the 
much  vexed  wine  question,  but  wish  simply  to  communicate  infor- 
mation. Were  I  to  hazard  the  expression  of  personal  feeling  and 
opinion,  on  this  general  subject,  it  would  be  that  of  the  deepest  re- 
gret for  any  approximation  in  the  tendency  of  the  age  to  the  removal 
of  the  sacred  landmarks  of  Scripture  institutions. 

Betrothals  are  customary  among  the  Nestorians,  which  are  nego- 
tiated by  the  parents  or  other  friends  of  the  parties,  but  not  without 
their  own  knowledge  and  usually  their  mutual  choice,  and  at  least  a 
sight-acquaintance.  These  are  made  months,  and  often  years,  be- 
fore the  marriage,  at  which  time  tokens  or  pledges,  in  the  form  of 
presents,  are  given  by  the  would-be  lover  or  his  friends,  to  the  girl. 
A  kind  of  semi-wedding  is  held  at  the  homes  of  both  parties,  at  the 
time  of  betrothal,  which  is  regarded  as  in  a  measure  a  sacred  con- 
tract, though'instances  are  not  rare  iu  which  it  is  violated.  Wives 
are  purchased  among  the  Nestorians,  as  they  were  in  the  days  of 
Jacob, — the  price  varying  from  five  to  fifty  or  one  hundred  dollars, 
according  to  the  standing  and  charms  of  the  person.  It  is  not  con- 
sidered proper  for  the  father  of  the  bride,  who  receives  the  purchase 
money,  to  appropriate  it  to  his  private  purposes,  but  expend  it  in 
furnishing  her  with  "wedding  garments."  The  wedding  commen- 
ces and  continues  two  or  three  days  at  the  homes  of  both  parties. 


EXTRACT  FROM  THE  MARRIAGE  SERVICE.  237 


The  bride  is  then  sent  for  and  condiicted  to  the  house  of  the  bride- 
groom, who,  amid  music  and  dancing,  gallantly  welcomes  lier  arri- 
val, by  throwing  at  her,  as  she  approaches  and  alights,  a  few  apples, 
or  painted  boiled  eggs,  from  the  roof  of  the  dwelling,  as  loving  to- 
kens. The  marriage  service  is  performed  immediately  after  her 
arrival,  and  the  festivities  are  continued  several  days,  during  which 
she  is  present  among  the  guests,  but  is  kept  closely  veiled. 

That  the  burden  of  these  long  weddings  may  not  be  onerous  on 
the  parties,  it  is  considered  proper,  for  the  numerous  guests,  at  the 
close,  to  make  a  liberal  contribution,  commonly  enough  to  meet  the 
expenses  of  the  wedding,  and  sometimes,  much  more.  This  equal- 
izing system  is  perhaps  a  good  one,  as  weddings  thus  bear  heavily 
upon  nobody  at  a  given  time,  and  the  poor  can  as  easily  marry  as 
their  more  wealthy  neighbors.  The  common  age  at  which  the 
Nestorians  marry,  is  from  thirteen  to  fifteen  of  the  female,  and  from 
fifteen  to  seventeen  of  the  male.  The  bride,  on  her  marriage,  be- 
comes a  nnember  of  the  bridegroom's  father's  family,  subject  like 
her  husband,  and  their  children,  when  blessed  with  them,  to  that 
father's  patriarchal  supervision  and  control. 

It  occurs  to  me  that  the  reader  may  be  gratified  with  a  specimen 
of  the  long  marriage  service  of  the  Nestorians.  I  will  quote  from 
the  concluding  part,  or  that  which  is  technically  styled  "the  bless- 
ings." This  portion  of  the  work — for  the  whole  service  composes 
a  small  volume* — is  in  the  form  of  a  rude  poem,  divided  by  the 
letters  of  the  alphabet,  in  the  alliterative  manner  of  the  119th  Psalm, 
each  respective  division  commencing  with  the  letter  by  which  it  is 
numbered.  The  bridegroom,  bride,  brideman  and  bridemaid 
are  separately  addressed,  or  "blessed," — each  address  forming,  in 
fact,  a  distinct  poem,  and  its  parts  extending  through  all  the  letters 
of  the  alphabet.  The  portions  relating  to  the  two  former  will  suffice  as 
specimens,  which  may  also  be  regarded  as  a  fair  sample  of  Nesto- 
rian  literature  and  poetry.  If  words  abound  to  the  lack  of  sense, 
the  sin  lies  of  course  at  the  door  of  the  book  or  its  authors,  and  not 
of  the  translation,  which  I  give  as  literally  as  the  different  idioms 
of  the  Syriac  and  English  will  permit. 

Extract  from  the  Marriage  service. 

"Then  let  the  priest  put  his  right  hand  on  the  heads  of  the 
bridegroom  and  the  bride — the  brideman  and  bridetnaid,  and 
bless  them  with  these  blessings. 

When  the  priest  has  taken  his  right  hand  and  said,  blessings, 
then  let  the  priest  repeat  this  blessing  upon  the  head  of  the  bride- 
groom. 

Alef. 

Thou  bridegroom,  who  bowest  thy  head  before  the  priest  in  humility,  the 

*  This  volume,  which  is  called,  Bar6kta,  is  made  up  of  extracts  from  dif- 
ferent ancient  writers,  Ephrem  the  Syrian,  among  others. 


238  BLESSINGS  UPON  THE  BRIDEGROOM. 

Lord,  our  Lord,  shall  lift  up  thy  head,  and  thou  shalt  prosper  [or,  may 
tliou  prosper]  in  both  worlds. 

The  blessing  of  the  Lord  shall  be  upon  thee ;  and  from  the  books*  I  will 
repeat  for  thee.  The  sun  with  its  heat  shall  not  harm  thee,  neither  tiie 
moon  with  its  changes  [waxing  and  waning]. 

GiMEL. 

Your  head  shall  be  conspicuous ;  you  shall  overcome  your  enemies  ;  your 
increase  shall  be  perpetual,  while  in  your  abundance  you  shall  not  come  to 
want. 

Daled. 

Your  deeds  Messiah  shall  prosper,  and  shall  bless  you  in  your  going  out 
and  coming  in,  and  help  you  in  your  sitting  in  the  assembly  and  in  your 
speech. 

He. 

You  shall  overcome  your  enemies;  they  shall  be  earth  under  your  feet; 
and  you  shall  flourish,  both  in  public  and  in  private,  with  a  good  and  a  fair 
name. 

Vav. 

Your  purses  shall  be  full,  as  Pison  with  its  pearls ;  and  the  multitude  of 
your  children  shall  spread  themselves  abroad  like  the  abundant  overflowings 
of  Gihon. 

Zain. 

Thy  seed  shall  be  in  plenlitude  like  Daklath  [the  Tigris]  when  it  is  swol- 
len ;  and  thou  shalt  multiply  and  increase  in  thy  children  on  every  side,  like 
the  river  Phrat  [Euphrates]  in  the  midst  of  the  nations. 

Hait. 

Your  prosperity  shall  be  four-fold,  both  in  body  and  in  soul ;  and  your 
riches,  both  terrestial  and  celestial,  shall  be  doubled. 

Tait. 

The  light  of  the  overshadowing  cross  shall  keep  thee  by  night  and  by 
day  ;  thy  house  shall  be  advanced ;  and  thou  shalt  rejoice  therein  forever. 

YooD. 

Your  knowledge  shall  be  like  gold;  before  all  your  friends  it  shall  shine, 
with  the  favor  of  the  Lord  which  shall  be  upon  you ;  with  light  shall  it  direct 
your  going  forth. 

Kaph. 

The  crown  of  your  head  shall  be  blessed.  The  garments  which  you  put 
upon  your  mortal  body  shall  be  blessed;  blessed,  also,  your  bridal  bed; 
blessed  your  abode,  and  blessed  your  possessions. 

Lamed. 

In  repose,  peacefully  shall  you  slumber ;  in  the  morning,  with  joy  shall 
you  awake  ;  at  noon  you  shall  gather  your  goods  ;  and  at  all  times,  grateful 
ease  shall  you  find. 


*  The  Scriptures  and  other  books,  from  which  the  quotations  are  allusions 
rather  than  literal  extracts. 


BLESSINGS  UPON  THE  BRIDE.  239 

Meem. 

From  strength  to  strength  shalt  thou  go;  from  glory  to  glory  shall  thou 
attain ;  from  degree  to  degree  shalt  thou  ascend,  and  from  good  to  good  ad- 
vajQce. 

Noon. 

Exaltation  and  honor  shall  be  unto  thee  ;  thy  name  shall  be  good  and  fair ; 
like  David  and  Constantine,  the  Lord  shall  increase  thy  glory. 

Semcat. 

The  loving  branches  of  thy  loins  in  joy  shall  rise  up  before  thee ;  and  like 
the  comely  olive  plants,  they  shall  be  blessed  around  thy  table. 

Ai. 

When  thou  stretchest  forth  thy  right  hand,  the  right  hand  of  the  Lord 
shall  respond ;  and  wherever  thou  shalt  put  thy  left  hand,  his  help  shall  be 
with  thee. 

Pe. 

Thy  sustenance,  in  this  world,  shall  be  with  life  and  peace;  evil  shall 
not  come  nigh  thee,  neither  by  night  nor  by  day. 

Sakda. 

Our  prayers  for  you  shall  be  accepted  and  our  desires  answered ;  you  shall 
be  a  father  to  chiefs,  and  priests  shall  come  forth  from  your  loins. 

KOPH. 

Before  all  men  shall  thy  root  spring  up  like  the  stock  of  Abraham ;  the 
Lord  shall  bless  thee  like  Ephraim,  and  like  Jacob  who  begat  Joseph. 

Raish. 

Thy  firstlings  and  thy  substance  shall  be  unto  thee  in  righteousness ;  a 
high  wall  shall  be  round  about  thee,  with  the  protection  of  the  Lord. 

Sheen. 

Thy  name  shall  go  forth  among  kings,  and  thy  speech  among  chiefs  ;  the 
fruits  of  thy  loins  shall  overflow,  and  they  shall  be  preserved  from  calamities. 

Tav. 

The  adorable  Trinity  will  crown  thee  with  every  blessing,  and  by  thee 
shall  God  be  praised,  and  we  will  all  say,  yea  and  amen." 


"  Next,  the  blessings  upon  the  bride,  according  to  the  letters. 

Alef. 

May  God,  who  blesseth  the  just,  bless  our  bride  who  is  given  in  marriage. 
May  her  attire  of  the  inner-man  be  comehness,  and  her  outer-garments, 
beauty. 

Baeth. 

May  He  render  blessed  to  her  the  house  into  which  she  entereth,  as  the 
house  of  queen  Helena;  may  he  hallow  to  her  the  marriage,  which  is  estab- 
lished by  the  laws  of  the  faithful. 

GiMEL. 

Her  ornaments,  treasures  and  abundance,  amplify  them  plentifully,  and 


240  BLESSIN-GS  UPON  THE  BRIDE. 

rejoice  her  husband  [lord]  as  he  comes  in ;  let  him  look  with  admiration  up- 
on their  excellence. 

Daled. 

She  shall  order  her  house  for  her  husband  without  strife  and  noise  ;  and 
his  honor  shall  increase  and  abound  ;  his  fame,  also,  among  her  companions. 

He. 

Grant  to  her  the  joy  of  her  heart;  and  enlighten  the  light  of  her  eyes; 
heal  the  wounds  of  her  members  and  forgive  to  her  the  sins  of  her  soul. 

Vav. 

Thou  shalt  be  first  and  new  [a  precedent]  in  whom  brides  shall  be  blessed ; 
according  to  the  words  of  the  priests  shalt  thou  be  blessed,  and  in  the  re- 
sponses of  the  deacons. 

Zain. 

Adorn  her  body  with  health,  and  beauty  accompanied  with  modesty ;  her 
name  shall  go  abroad  in  honor,  and  she  shall  live  a  peaceful  life. 

Hait. 

Behold,  thou  exalted  on  high,  and  bless  thy  handmaid,  and  her  husband ; 
by  thy  right  hand,  O  Lord,  keep  them  ;  by  thy  grace  may  they  be  preserved. 

Tait. 

Virtue,  life  and  health  grant  unto  her  from  thy  treaSure-house  :  and  in 
mercy  answer  her  wants  with  an  abundant  and  overflowing  measure. 

YOOD. 

Let  thy  right  hand  be  upon  her  ;  and  under  thy  skirt,  let  her  be  shielded; 
deliver  her  from  evil  and  violence ;  and  let  her  abode  be  for  thine  honor. 

Kaph. 

All  the  righteous  women  [departed]  of  our  people  and  other  nations  shall 
stand  before  her,  as  before  a  mirror.  And  with  them,  she  shall  enter  into  the 
wedding,  [in  heaven]. 

Lamed. 

She  shall  embrace  Sarah,  with  affection.  Bless  thou,  O  Lord,  her  offspring 
like  Isaac  ;  let  her  be  blessed  like  Rebecca  ;  and  preserve  her  offspring  like 
Jacob. 

Meem. 

Cause  her  beauty  to  equal  that  of  Rachel ;  and  may  her  seed  be  like  Jo- 
seph ;  bless  thou  her  womb  like  Leah,  that  she  may  be  a  motlier  unto  many. 

Noon. 

May  thy  token  of  favor  bless  her  like  Asyat ;  and  wilt  thou  increase  and 
multiply  her  like  Ephraira;  let  her  also  be  like  Yooh4var;  and  her  sons  re- 
semble Moses. 

Semcat. 

May  a  good  hope  fill  her  soul  like  that  of  Elizabeth,  of  the  seed  of  Aaron  ; 
may  her  offspring  resemble  Eleazar  and  Ithamar. 

Ai. 

Grant  aid  unto  her,  like  Sapphira;  jmd  favor  htr  oflspring  like  Gershon. 
And  cause  her  mouth,  like  Miriam's,  to  abound  with  hymns  and  singing. 

Pe. 

Divide  to  her  an  inheritance  in  the  land,  as  Mahlah,  Hoglab  and  Yaah 


POINT  OF  DIFFERENCE  CONCLUSION. 


241 


[Noah],  and  Milcah  and  Tirza,  the  sisters  who  inherited  tlie  portion  of  their 
fathers- 

Sadda. 

Bestow  quiet  within  her  house,  and  increase  peace  in  her  dwelling;  may 
there  be  priests  from  her  children  and  deacons  from  her  offspring. 

Kopii. 

Her  seed  shall  inherit  her  possession;  her  fields  shall  be  with  wells  of  wa- 
ter ;  her  sons  shall  recline  upon  cushions  and  her  daughters  upon  couches. 

RAisrr. 

Her  husband  shall  greatly  rejoice;  her  fathers,  moreover,  shall  be  glad; 
and  sons,  the  perfection  of  thy  will,  0  Lord,  shall  grow  upon  her  knees. 

Sheen. 

Her  seed  shall  be  multiplied  as  the  sand,  like  unto  the  stars  in  the  firma- 
ment ;  and  like  Jordan  in  the  days  of  Neesan,  [April,]  and  abundant  be  her 
wealth. 

Tav. 

Thou  shalt  bless  thy  maid-servant,  O  our  Lord,  according  to  these  words 
of  blessing  ;  according  to  the  prayers  of  the  saints,  all  the  days  of  her  life. — 
Let  glory  and  thanksgiving  ascend  to  the  Father,  the  Son,  and  the  Holy  Spirit, 
from  henceforth  forever  and  ever — to  worlds  without  end,  yea  and  Amen." 

A  point  of  difference  between  these  two  singular  documents, 
which  naturally  strikes  the  Western  reader,  is,  that  while  the  bride- 
groom is  addressed  in  the  second  person,  the  bride  is  spoken  of,  in 
the  third, — a  direct  address  to  a  female,  on  any  public  occasion,  be- 
ing regarded  by  orientals  as  indecorous,  at  least  if  often  repeated. 
We  omit  the  "blessings,"  that  succeed,  addressed  to  the  attending 
brideraan  and  bridemaid,  which  are  divided  in  the  same  manner, 
by  the  letters  of  the  alphabet ;  also  the  address  to  the  assembly ; 
and  will  only  add  the  following  few  words,  which  form  the  conclu- 
sion of  the  whole  matter. 

"  Let  the  priest  make  the  sign  of  the  cross  [with  his  hand]  over 
the  assembly.  Conclusion.  To  thee,  thou  bridegroom,  illustrious 
and  adorned  like  the  rose, — beloved  and  woven  into  the  crown  of  the 
celestial  Bridegroom  ;  and  to  thee,  thou  bride,  beautiful  and  spot- 
less among  virgins,  chosen  from  the  fairest  of  the  church;  and  to 
thee,  thou  honored  brideman,  the  emblem  of  John  the  Baptist ;  and 
to  thee,  thou  fair  and  worthy  bridemaid,  and  upon  all  this  innu- 
merable multitude;  peace,  mercy  and  blessing,  and  the  grace  of  our 
adorable  God,  be  multiplied,  now,  and  forever  and  ever.  Amen." 

We  continued  a  friendly  conversation  at  the  Nestorian  wedding, 
until  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  joy  imparted  to  all  by 
our  presence,  was  evidently  very  great.  When  we  retired,  the  whole 
multitude  thronged  around  us,  and  again  reiterated,  tcelcomt — wel- 
come ;  and  many  rushed  up  to  us,  after  we  had  mounted  our  horses, 
to  kiss  our  hands.  IVIar  Elias  was  the  last  to  turn  back  of  those 
who  accompanied  us  some  distance  on  the  way.  Our  ride  home 
was  delightful — particularly  from  our  feelings  of  gratitude  to  God 
31 


242 


VISIT  TO  MAS.  GABRIEL  HIS  RUDENESS. 


for  such  indications  of  the  confidence  of  the  people  in  us,  and  of 
our  unobstructed  access  to  all  classes. 

Dec.  9.  With  Dr.  Grant  and  Mar  Yohannan,  I  rode  to  Ardi- 
shai,  about  fifteen  miles  distant  from  the  city,  to  visit  Mar  Gabriel, 
the  bishop  resident  in  that  village.  Mar  Gabriel  received  and  enter- 
tained us  with  much  cordiality.  On  my  inquiring  whether  he  would 
like  to  come  and  reside  with  me,  and  learn  English  and  teach  me 
his  language,  he  replied,  that  he  should  be  very  happy  to  do  so,  and 
would  come  as  soon  as  the  present  feast  is  over,  which  would  be  the 
case  in  three  or  four  days.  He  is  a  young  man  of  talents,  and  I 
have,  from  my  first  acquaintance  with  him,  been  anxious  that  he 
should  early  come  under  the  direct  influence  of  our  mission.  Dr. 
Grant  now  employs  Mar  Yohannan  as  his  interpreter  in  medical 
prescriptions,  a  considerable  part  of  the  day,  and  priest  Abraham 
is  soon  to  be  engaged  in  a  teachers'  school  on  our  premises.  I 
therefore  find  it  equally  convenient  and  necessary  to  employ  another 
Syriac  teacher  for  myself,  and  am  happy  in  securing  so  promising 
a  man  as  Mar  Gabriel.  Such,  however,  is  his  youthful  restlessness 
of  character,  that  it  is  a  question  how  long  or  how  regularly  he  will 
be  induced  to  devote  himself  to  study. 

Dec.  10.  Priest  Abraham  inquired  to-day  how  long,  God  willing, 
I  expect  to  reside  in  Persia.  I  replied  by  asking  how  long  he  and 
his  people  desire  us  to  remain,  and  he  quickly  answered,  "Always." 
I  conversed  with  him  about  commencing  our  teachers'  school.  He 
appeared  highly  pleased  with  the  prospect,  and  said  that  all  the 
Nestorians,  clergy  and  people,  are  anxious  that  we  should  open 
schools  among  them,  to  the  fullest  extent  practicable.  Mar  Shi- 
mon, too,  the  Patriarch  residing  in  the  Koordish  mountains,  he 
stated,  having  heard  of  our  coming  among  his  people,  had  written 
to  Oroomiah  that  our  arrival  affords  him  inexpressible  gratification. 
The  Nestorians  are  extremely  apprehensive  that  our  attention  and 
efforts  may  be  in  a  measure  diverted  from  them  and  directed  to- 
ward the  Mohammedans.  "  A  multitude  of  Muhammedans,  in  the 
city,"  said  priest  Abraham  to-day,  "  are  talking  about  coming  to 
school  to  you  ;  but  I  beg  you  do  not  receive  them."  This  is  a  very 
difficult  matter  to  dispose  of, — not  more  because  prejudice  rears  a 
separating  barrier  between  the  two  classes,  than  because  we  have 
not  time  and  strength  to  do  half  that  we  desire  for  one,  and  less  of 
course  for  both  of  them. 

Dec.  15.  Mar  Gabriel  came  to  reside  with  me.  He  is  a  tall, 
fine  looking  young  man.  His  native  wildness  and  entire  unacquain- 
tance  with  our  manners  and  customs  remind  us  forcibly  of  Mar  Yo- 
hannan and  priest  Abraham's  appearance,  when  they  came  to  re- 
side with  us  at  Tabreez,  and  of  the  rapid  improvement  which  they 
have  since  made.  As  an  instance,  at  our  table  this  evening — a  po- 
sition which  the  young  bishop  had  never  before  occupied — as  priest 
Abraham  was  passing  his  cup  to  Mrs.  Perkins  for  a  second  cup  of 
tea,  JVIar  Gabriel,  whose  cup  was  but  half  emptied,  thus  interrupted 


FIRST  HANDFUL  OF  CORN  UPON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


243 


him, — "  here  take  mine;  I  have  finished."  "  Oh  no,  I  thank  you," 
said  priest  Abraham.  "  Take  it,  I  don't  wish  for  it,"  said  the  bish- 
op, and  with  a  tone  so  decided  tliat  the  poor  priest  was  obliged  to 
yield  to  episcopal  authority,  though  to  his  unspeakable  embarass- 
ment  and  mortification. 

Dec.  16.  Commenced  constructing  a  series  of  school  cards  in 
the  Nestorian  language,  which  has  hitherto  never  been  reduced  to 
a  written  form.  Priest  Abraham  writes  a  beautiful  hand  and  bids 
fair  to  be  an  able  assistant.  Our  first  attempt  was  a  translation  of 
the  Lord's  prayer,  which  I  may  denominate,'  our  Jirst  handful  of 
corn,  to  be  cast  upon  the  tops  of  these  naked  moral  mountams,  far 
more  sterile  than  the  bare,  parched,  physical  summits,  in  Persia,  that 
most  of  the  year  are  like  the  mountains  of  Gilbaa,  without  rain,  or 
dew,  or  fields  of  offering.  May  the  fruit  thereof  soon  shake  like 
Lebanon.  Numbers  of  the  Nestorians  were  in  at  my  study,  in  the 
course  of  the  day  ;  and  all  were  much  interested  in  the  business  in 
which  we  were  engaged.  They  were  greatly  delighted  to  hear  readr 
ing  in  their  language, — a  thing  they  had  never  heard  or  conceived 
before.  And  even  the  sober  priest  was  so  much  amused  to  hear 
the  familiar  sounds  of  his  native  tongue,  read,  as  well  as  spoken,  that 
he  could  not  refrain  from  immoderate  laughter,  as  he  repeated,  line 
by  line,  what  he  had  himself  just  written.  I  added  a  few  words  of 
very  simple  comment  to  the  Lord's  prayer.  "From  what  book  did 
you  take  this?"  inquired  priest  Abraham  ;  from  no  book,  I  replied, 
but  from  my  own  thoughts.  He  was  utterly  astonished,  and  declared 
that  all  the  bishops  of  his  nation  together  could  not  compose  such 
wise  and  excellent  matter;  and  this  declaration  would  probably 
give  no  more  than  a  fair  impression  of  the  ignorance  and  imbecility 
of  the  Nestorian  clergy  at  this  time.  Indeed,  the  priest  added,  in 
the  same  connexion,  that  they  never  attempt  to  furnish  any  original 
matter,  written  or  oral,  but  merely  recite  their  devotions ;  or  at 
most,  the  few  who  understand  enough  of  the  ancient  Syriac,  some- 
times translate,  orally,  a  few  verses  from  the  ancient  into  the  ver- 
nacular language. 

Dec.  18.  I  read  at  evening  with  our  priest  and  Nestorian  boy, 
the  fifth  chapter  of  Matthew.  I  remarked  at  some  length,  on  the  sin 
of  profaneness,  as  there  forbidden.  Said  the  priest,  "  you  talk  just 
as  Mar  Elias,  our  bishop,  talks;  but  nobody  will  give  ear  to  him — 
nobody — and  what  shall  we  do  1  Our  people  are  all  great  sinners ; 
but  not  a  man  of  them  will  listen  to  reproof  or  warning."  I  told 
Abraham  that  he  must  preach.  "  But  nobody  will  listen  to  me,"  he 
replied.  I  told  him  he  must  pray  to  God  for  the  influence  of  the 
Holy  Spirit  to  accompany  his  message  to  the  hearts  of  those  whom 
he  addresses ;  and  the  idea  seemed  to  strike  him  as  new  and  to 
lodge  in  his  mind.  Priest  Abraham  inquired  whether  I  did  not  think 
it  would  be  a  good  thing  to  have  the  Bible  translated  into  their  ver- 
nacular language.  I  had  never  suggested  the  idea  to  him  ;  but  now 
encouraged  it.  This  evidently  afforded  him  great  satisfaction.  How 


244 


A  PRIEST  FROM  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


many  Nestorian  hearts  will  leap  with  joy  and  gratitude  whenever 
that  great  work  shall  be  accomplished  ! 

Dec.  21.  An  aged  priest  from  the  Patriarch's  residence,  )icar 
Julamerk,  dined  with  us.  He  is  an  uncle  and  a  kind  of  acting  dep- 
uty of  Mar  Shimon,  and  is  now  on  a  visit  in  that  capacity  among 
the  churches  of  Oroomiah.  He  said  that  the  Patriarch  and  himself 
had  heard  of  my  having  arrived  at  Tabreez  with  the  design  of  aid- 
ing the  Nestorians,  and  their  hearts  had  been  filled  with  thanksgiv- 
ing to  God  on  that  account ;  but  he  was  now  most  joyfully  surprised 
to  find  us  actually  at  Oroomiah.  The  appearance  of  this  aged  priest 
is  that  of  sincerity — much  more  so  than  we  often  see  in  this  coun- 
try. And  I  have  little  reason  to  doubt,  that  he  and  the  Patriarch, 
and  in  fact,  the  mass  of  the  Nestorians,  do  heartily  welcome  us  to 
our  labors.  They  seem  deeply  to  feel  their  low  estate, — and  are  in 
just  the  condition  to  be  thankful  for  help;  and  in  some  measure, 
to  be  led  to  look  to  God  also  from  whom  alone  their  help  can  come. 
In  the  evening,  we  and  our  families  spent  an  hour  in  singing.  Our 
six  Nestorian  and  four  American  voices  harmonized  much  better 
than  the  fastidious  might  suppose.  The  Nestorians  are  extremely 
fond  of  our  mode  of  singing. 

Dec.  23.  We  visited  a  Khan.  He  introduced  a  son,  who  is 
subject  to  epileptic  fits.  In  describing  his  case  to  Dr.  Grant,  the 
bishop,  who  was  with  us,  said,  "  he  has  a  devil."  The  incident 
suggested  to  me  the  probability  that  some  of  those  in  our  Saviour's 
time,  who  were  said,  in  just  this  language,  to  be  possessed  of  devils, 
may  have  been  merely  subject  to  epileptic  fits,  the  cure  of  which  in 
their  worst  features  would  indeed  be  a  striking  miracle. 

Dec.  25.  Mar  Gabriel,  for  the  first  time,  read  with  us,  in  En- 
glish, at  our  family  devotions.  His  own  gratification  was  very  great 
on  the  occasion  ;  and  his  proficiency  has  certainly  been  quite  com- 
mendable in  thus  becoming  able  to  read  our  language,  though  but 
very  imperfectly,  in  ten  days  after  first  looking  at  the  alphabet. 

/>ec,  27.  Was  the  Sabbath.  In  conversation  with  our  Armenian 
servant,  who  came  with  me  from  Tabreez,  T  inquired  whether  he 
now  prayed,  separated  as  he  is  from  his  church  and  home  and  the 
people  of  his  religious  communion.  "  Yes,"  said  he,  "  after  I  bid 
you  and  Mrs.  P.  good  evening,  I  go  away  every  night  and  pray  by 
myself;  and  I  remember  with  great  satisfaction  something  which 
you  once  said,  but  which  our  greatest  bishop  never  thought  of; 
you  told  me,  that  God  is  always  present,  in  every  place,  and  knows 
when  we  pray  alone  just  as  well  as  when  we  go  to  our  church  with 
the  priests." 

At  our  Bible  class,  this  afternoon,  the  two  servants  connected 
with  our  families,  as  well  as  the  ecclesiastics  and  boys  who  live  with 
us,  were  present,  and  all  listened  with  eager  attention.  Instead  of 
doing  the  whole  myself,  I  requested  Mar  Yohannan  to  translate 
some  of  the  verses  into  Turkish  and  explain  their  meaning  ;  and  it 
was  very  gratifying  to  listen  to  his  intelligent  and  impressive  re- 


NEED  OF  L.ABOUEKS. 


245 


marks, — and  particularly  so,  as  he  is  bexoraing  quite  interested  in 
preaching  in  the  same  manner  to  his  people  elsewhere.  Instead  of 
the  many  childish,  mystic  meanings,  with  which  both  he  and  priest 
Abraham  formerly  invested  every  passage  of  Scripture,  they  now 
give  as  their  own  the  same  expositions  which  I  incidentally  suggest- 
ed, as  we  read  the  New  Testament  together  from  day  to  day  at 
Tabreez.  When  all,  or  a  considerable  number,  of  the  Nestorian 
ecclesiastics  shall  thus  preach  and  enforce  their  preaching  by  a  con- 
sistent example,  what  a  revival  may  we  hope  for,  in  this  now  de- 
graded and  lifeless  church. 

Dec.  29.  As  the  year  draws  to  a  close  and  I  embrace  the  occa- 
sion to  survey  our  position  and  circumstances,  two  or  three  points, 
relating  to  our  work,  urge  themselves  upon  me  with  indescribable 
importance.  We  are  in  pressing  need  of  more  laborers.  We  are. like 
two  solitary  reapers,  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  and  glorious  harvest,  fully 
ripe  and  fast  falling  into  the  ground.  And  while  we  drop  our  sickles  a 
few  moments  and  take  our  pen  to  send  forth  our  feeble  cry  for  help, 
we  can  scarcely  find  the  time  for  this  even,  such  is  the  pressure  of  our 
work  ;  for  now  is  emphatically  the  day  of  salvation  for  the  thousands 
and  thousands  who  stand  ready  to  receive  the  bread  of  life  at  our 
hands.  There  are  from  one  hundred  to  one  himdred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand Nestorians,  to  whose  minds  and  hearts  we  may  have  as  ready 
access  as  we  could  to  almost  any  population  of  the  same  amount  in 
America,  so  far  as  a  willingness  to  enjoy  our  labors  is  concerned. 
The  hostile  character  and  unsettled  state  of  the  savage  Koords  may 
indeed  hedge  up  our  way  for  a  time  to  the  Nestorian  mountaineers, 
but  they  will  come  to  us  more  or  less  and  we  shall  gradually  reach 
them  by  our  influence.  Dr.  Grant  is  almost  wholly  occupied  among 
the  sick  and  the  dying.  His  medical  prescriptions,  every  day,  pro- 
bably surpass  twice  the  amount  of  the  most  active  physicians  in 
America.  That  I  therefore  need  a  clerical  companion  to  aid  me 
in  the  education  and  religious  instruction  of  these  thousands  of 
Nestorians,  can  of  course  not  be  doubted.  It  is  impossible  for  me 
to  do  more  than  a  very  small  fraction  of  what  is  imperiously  requi- 
red to  be  done.  And  while  the  Nestorians  are  thus  imperfecdy  pro- 
vided for,  must  absolutely  nothing  be  attempted  for  the  benefit  of 
the  millions  of  perishing  Muhammedans  ?  As  they  witness  our  in- 
cipient efforts  for  the  instruction  of  the  Nestorians,  they  look  upon 
these  christian  subjects  with  feelings  of  jealous]/,  and  as  naturally  as 
resentfully  ask,  are  we  to  be  thus  passed  by  1  Many  youthful  fol- 
lowers of  the  False  Prophet  are  ready  and  desirous  to  put  themselves 
immediately  under  our  instruction.  What  then  shall  we  do  1  What 
can  we  do  1  Why,  to  quiet  the  Muhammedans  and  keep  them  from 
actually  rising  upon  the  Nestorians  or  ourselves  for  entire  neglect. 
Dr.  Grant  shuts  his  door  against  the  sick,  an  hour  or  two  in  a  day, 
to  keep  a  small  Mussulman  school.  But  amidst  his  labors  as  a  phy- 
sician, his  efforts  for  the  instruction  of  that  class  must  of  course  be 
very  limite<l, — little  more  in  fact  than  an  apology  for  attempting  to 
do  nothing  for  them. 


246 


NEED  OF  A  PRESS  STATE  OE  THE  FIELD. 


We  also  need  a  press  at  our  mission.  It  would  be  safe  at  Oroo- 
nniah.  The  Persians  understand  the  use  of  the  press.  They  have 
for  sometime  had  one  in  active  operation  at  Tehran,  and  now  have 
a  lithographic  press  at  work  at  Tabreez.  We  have  nothing  to  fear, 
therefore,  from  the  prejudice  of  the  Muhammedans  against  our 
establishing  a  printing-press  here, — at  least,  a  jSynac  press.  And 
the  Nestorians,  so  far  from  apprehending  anything  unfavorable 
from  the  measure,  are  constantly  importuning  us  to  procure  for  them 
that  important  auxiliary.  That  it  is  indispensable  to  the  successful 
prosecution  of  our  labors  needs  hardly  to  be  stated.  Where  would 
the  modern  Greeks  have  been,  had  they  remained  until  now,  with- 
out any  part  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  or  a  single  syllable  of  literature 
of  any  kind,  in  their  vernacular  language?  Just  there  the  Nestori- 
ans must  remain,  with  the  exception  of  the  very  limited  influence  of 
the  school-cards,  which  we  may  be  able  to  prepare  by  the  slow  mo- 
tion of  the  pen,  until  we  have  a  press  in  operation.  They  have  vig- 
orous, active  minds;  but  no  books — not  one — in  their  spoken  lan- 
guage. But  most  of  all  do  we  need  the  j>raycrs  of  the  American 
churches  for  a  revival  of  religion  among  the  Nestorians.  A  few  of 
them  daily  read  the  Bible;  and  all  of  them  are  ready  to  hear  the 
gospel  from  our  lips,  as  our  progress  in  their  language  enables  us  to 
proclaim  it  to  them.  What  wait  we  for,  then,  but  the  descent  of  the 
Holy  Spirit,  that  the  living  word,  as  it  thus  reaches  their  minds,  may 
subdue  their  hearts  and  become  the  power  of  God  unto  their  salva- 
tion ! 


CHAPTER  XV. 

STATE  OF  THE  FIELD. 

The  local  situation  and  civil  condition  of  the  Nestorians  are  no- 
ticed in  the  first  chapter  of  this  volume.  Their  religious  character 
is  also  alluded  to  there,  but  it  should  be  more  fully  stated,  that  the 
reader  may  the  better  understand  its  gradual  development  in  the 
following  chapters.  As  Chr'istians,  the  Nestorians,  when  we 
reached  them,  resembled  the  valley  of  Ezekiel's  vision  of  dry  bones. 
And  our  feelings,  on  surveying  the  affecting  scene,  were  probably 
not  unlike  those  of  the  mourning  prophet,  in  contemplating  the 
state  of  fallen  Israel.  "  Can  these  bones  live?"  was  the  inquiry, 
which  the  painful  spectacle  itself  prompted  from  us,  and  to  which 
the  promised  breath  of  Jehovah,  to  breathe  upon  those  slain,  and 
cause  them  to  live,  could  alone  furnish  a  comforting  answer.  Or, 
more  strictly,  perhaps,  the  Nestorians  might  then  be  described  in 


SPIRITUAL  DEATH  VICES. 


247 


the  affecting  language  of  the  apocalyptic  address  to  the  church  of 
Sardis — "And  unto  the  angel  in  the  church  of  Sardis,  write  :  these 
things  saith  he  that  hath  the  seven  spirits  of  God  and  the  seven 
stars  I  know  thy  works,  that  thou  hast  a  name  that  thou  livest, 
and  art  dead." 

The  Nestorians,  also,  had  a  name  to  live.  And  to  the  forms 
of  their  church,  many  of  which  have  almost  a  Protestant  simpUcity, 
they  clung  with  mortal  tenacity.  Their  periodical  fasts,  which  con- 
sist of  restriction  to  vegetable  diet  and  are  quite  numerous,  many 
of  the  people  would  sooner  die  than  violate.  Declarations  to  that 
effect  have  been  repeatedly  made  to  our  physican,  when  he  has  pre- 
scribed chicken-soup  for  the  sick,  which  they  would  most  peremp- 
torily refuse,  because  it  was  prescribed  on  days  when  their  church 
canons  restrict  them  to  a  vegetable  diet.  And  one  of  their  bishops, 
when  first  visited  by  Messrs.  Smith  and  Dwight,  it  being  in  time  of 
Lent,  scrupulously  abstained  from  the  use  of  wine  at  dinner,  be- 
cause the  vessel  which  contained  it  had  been  internally  oiled  to 
prevent  leakage  ;  but  he  at  the  same  time  urged  them  to  join  him 
in  a  glass  of  brandy,  as  an  innocent  beverage,  inasmuch  as  it  had 
not  been  thus  contaminated  by  contact  with  animal  oil ! 

With  a  name  to  live,  and  with  all  their  rigid  punctiliousness  in 
adhering  so  strictly  to  the  letter  of  the  forms  of  their  religion,  the 
Nestorians  as  a  body  were,  however,  dead.  The  life  and  the  power 
of  Christianity  had  departed.  Scarcely  a  symptom  of  spiritual  vi- 
tality remained.  Of  the  meaning  of  regeneration,  even  their  most 
intelligent  ecclesiastics  seemed  to  know  little  or  nothing.  Their 
views  respecting  it,  extended  hardly  beyond  the  rite  of  water  bap- 
tism. At  least,  they  appeared  to  suppose  that  this  rite  possessed 
some  mysterious  charm  that  involved  the  agency  of  the  Holy  Spirit 
so  far  as  it  is  ever  exerted.  And  their  works  were  not  found  per- 
fect before  God.  The  plain  commandments  of  the  decalogue, — 
those  against  falsehood  and  the  violation  of  the  Sabbath,  for  in- 
stance, were  wantonly  and  almost  universally  broken.  Falsehood, 
among  all  classes — equally  as  among  the  Muhammedans — appeared 
to  be  much  more  habitual  than  telling  the  truth,  and  when  there 
was  not  even  the  poor  apology  of  a  prete.x.t  for  preferring  falsehood 
to  truth.  On  the  Sabbath, ""they  would  not  indeed  labor ;  but,  as 
matter  of  calculation,  would  visit,  engage  in  festivities,  trade,  and 
arrange  their  business,  far  more  than  on  any  other  day  of  the  week. 
Profaneness  prevails  among  them — as  well  as  among  the  Mussul- 
mans— to  an  extent  that  astounds  an  American  ear.  It  has  so  run 
into  the  texture  of  their  language,  as  to  form  constituent  parts  of 
their  most  cotnmon  phrases.*  The  boy  who  drives  a  team  at  work, 
a  cow  to  pasture,  or  a  mule  in  the  caravan,  cries  out  almost  inces- 


*  It  should  be  conceded,  that  orientals,  thougli  thus  habitually  profane,  are 
also  more  thoughtlessly,  ignorantly,  and  far  less  malevolently  so,  than  those 
who  are  addicted  to  this  sin  in  America. 


248  PROFANENESS — APOLOGIES  THE  NAME. 


santly,  '  Yd  Allah,' — O  God,  as  equivalent  to,  Go  along,  in  Eng- 
lish. The  chopper  repeats  the  same,  as  a  kind  of  sing-song  charm, 
at  nearly  every  blow  of  his  axe;  and  the  gardener,  as  often  as  he 
pushes  his  spade  into  the  ground  ;  and  the  same  is  in  general  true 
in  other  kinds  of  labor.  And  in  conversation,  Wdlldk,  in  Turk- 
ish, and  B'sldmcc  d'Allaha,  in  Syriac,  a  direct  appeal  to  the  Su- 
preme Being,  is  synonymous  with  a  note  of  admiration  or  exclama- 
tion, and  is  in  fact  the  close  of  almost  every  sentence ;  and  obscenity, 
among  the  mass,  is  about  as  prevalent  as  profaneness.  Intemper- 
ance, too,  as  already  stated,  exists  to  a  fearful  extent  an)ong  the 
Ncstorians.  Their  temptation  to  this  sin  is  peculiar,  their  fertile 
country  being  like  one  great  vineyard. 

When  reminded  of  the  sin  and  inconsistency  of  these  vices,  in 
nominal  Christians,  especially  in  those  who  professedly  make  theBible 
their  rule  of  faith  and  practice,  they  would  acknowledge  the  wrong, 
but  at  the  same  time  excuse  themselves,  in  consideration  of  their 
depressed  political  condition.  Lying,  they  would  urge,  was  often 
indispensable,  to  save  them  from  being  overreached  and  oppressed, 
by  their  Muhammedan  masters.  The  scriptural  observance  of  the 
Sabbath,  too,  they  would  say,  must  not,  in  their  circumstances,  be 
expected.  Frequent  oaths  were  unavoidable  to  command  belief 
and  facilitate  business  with  their  oppressors.  And  as  to  free  in- 
dulgence in  the  use  of  wine,  they  would  account  their  facilities  for 
such  indulgence  as  a  precious  boon  vouchsafed  by  heaven,  and 
almost  the  only  one  left  to  them,  to  cheer  and  sustain  their  spirits 
under  their  intolerable  burdens. 

It  should  not,  however,  be  inferred  that  Christianity,  in  the  fallen 
state  in  which  it  existed  on  our  arrival  among  them,  cost  them  no 
sacrifices.  It  cost  them  the  privileges  of  freemen,  and  brought  up- 
on them  almost  every  species  of  ignominy  and  oppression.  Ameri- 
can Christians  know  nothing,  in  comparison  with  the  Nestorians, 
of  suffering  for  the  name  of  the  Lord  Jesus.  They  are  habitually 
called  by  their  superiors,  the  Muhammedans,  uncleaji  infidels  and 
dogs,  and  are  treated  in  accordance  with  those  epithets.  Often 
their  property,  and  sometimes  their  children,  are  wantonly  stripped 
from  them,  on  account  of  their  attachment  to  Christianity,  while 
their  renouncement  of  it  would  place  them  at  once  beyond  the 
reach  of  such  indignities  and  sufferings.  And  it  is  wonderful,  that 
they  have  clung,  from  century  to  century,  so  tenaciously  to  the 
name  of  our  holy  religion,  paying  such  a  price  for  it,  while  un- 
cheered  and  unsustained  by  its  living  consolations  and  power. 

Nor  should  it  be  supposed  that  their  formal  Christianity — their 
having  a  name  to  live,  while  they  were  dead — was  of  no  practical 
benefit  to  them.  Even  the  apparently  lifeless  form  exerted  on 
them  a  very  salutary  and  important  influence.  It  saved  the  existing 
remnant  from  becoming  Muhammedans,  and  from  the  no  less  de- 
plorable alternative  of  yielding  to  Papal  domination.  And  as  I 
have  elsewhere  suggested,  it  preserved  among  them,  in  some  re- 


EDUCATION  SCHOOL-ROOM. 


249 


spects,  particularly  in  their  observance  of  the  seventh  command- 
ment, a  far  higher  standard  of  morality  than  exists  among  the  de- 
based followers  of  the  False  Prophet,  with  whom  they  live,  and  by 
whose  vices  they  are  more  or  less  contaminated. 

As  of  the  church  of  Sardis,  so  also  in  relation  to  the  Nestorian 
church,  we  may,  in  the  spirit  of  charity,  hope  that  even  here  it 
might  be  said,  "thou  hast  a  few  names  which  have  not  defiled 
their  garments."  If  such  there  were,  however,  on  our  arrival 
among  them,  we  must  stretch  the  mantle  of  our  charity  much 
broader  to  embrace  them  and  cover  their  deficiencies,  than  is  war- 
rantable in  enlightened  christian  lands,  so  blinded  were  they  by  the 
deep  darkness  and  borne  downward  by  the  mighty  current  of  ini- 
quity and  corruption  that  prevailed  around  them. 

Education,  when  we  reached  the  Nestorians,  was  at  an  ebb 
almost  as  low  as  vital  religion.  None  but  their  ecclesiastics  could 
read  at  all,  and  but  very  few  of  them  could  do  more  than  merely 
repeat  their  devotions  in  an  unknown  tongue,  while  neither  they 
nor  their  hearers  knew  anything  of  the  meaning.  Indeed,  in  both 
an  intellectual  and  religious  point  of  view,  the  flame  of  their  candle 
had  long  been  flickering  and  was  ready  to  e.xpire.  The  com- 
mencement of  our  missionary  labors  among  them  was  just  in  time 
to  strengthen  the  things  that  remained  and  were  ready  to  die,  and 
save  the  Nestorians  as  a  church  from  actual  extinction. 

Jan.  16,  1836.  To-day  we  met  in  our  new  school-room  for  re- 
ligious worship.  I  had  labored  with  my  own  hands,  most  of  the 
previous  week,  in  company  with  the  tardy  joiners,  cold  as  the 
weather  was,  to  construct  seats,  sand-boxes  and  writing-desks,  that 
we  might  be  ready  to  commence  our  school  without  longer  delay. 
It  is  a  spacious,  convenient  room  for  a  school,  "and  no  less  so  for 
a  place  of  worship,  for  which  purpose  it  is  also  designed.  To-day 
we  tried  to  consecrate  this  school-room  to  the  service  of  the  Lord. 
I  preached  on  the  occasion  from  I  Kings  8:  27,  "But  will  God  in- 
deed dwell  on  the  earth  ?  Behold  the  heaven  and  heaven  of 
heavens  cannot  contain  thee ;  how  much  less  this  house  tliat  I  have 
builded;"  and  1  Kings  9:  3,  "  And  the  Lord  said  unto  him,  I  have 
heard  thy  prayer  and  thy  supplication  that  thou  hast  made  before 
me;  I  have  hallowed  this  house  that  thou  hast  built  to  put  my 
name  there  forever ;  and  mine  eyes  and  my  heart  shall  be  there  per- 
petually." It  is,  we  trust,  our  fervent  prayer,  that  this  Scripture 
may  be  verified,  in  relation  to  our  school-room ;  that  scores  and 
hundreds  who  shall  in  the  good  providence  of  God,  in  the  progress 
of  our  work,  resort  to  it  for  instruction,  may  find  it  in  very  deed 
"  the  house  of  God  and  the  gate  of  heaven."  The  plainness  and  hum- 
bleness of  the  place,  presented,  in  our  view,  no  objection  to  making 
our  first  occupancy  of  it  an  occasion  of  special  religious  acknow- 
ledgement, and  informally  consecrating  it  to  the  Lord.  Jacob 
deemed  it  fit  to  set  up  stones  in  the  desert  and  pour  upon  them  oil 

32 


250 


SCHOOL  1 


SUBLIME  OBJECT 


'  APPARATUS. 


to  mark  the  site  of  his  Bethel.  And  even  the  skeptical  poet  has 
well  said  :* 

"  Shall  man  confine  his  Maker's  sway 
To  Gothic  domes  and  mouldering  stone  ? 
Thy  temple  is  the  face  of  day  ; 
Earth — ocean — heaven,  thy  boundless  throne." 

Jan.  17.  Our  school-room,  fitted  up  in  the  Lancasterian  style,  is 
an  object  of  great  curiosity.  Multitudes  of  both  Muhammedans  and 
Nestorians  throng  to  inspect  it.  It  is  the  first  Lancasterian  school- 
room ever  opened  in  Central  Asia.  May  it  prove  the  harbinger  of 
hundreds  and  thousands. 

Jan.  18.  Our  school  commenced.  Seven  boys  from  the  city  at- 
tended. They  all  took  their  stand  in  a  semi-circle  around  the  manu- 
script card  .'suspended  on  the  wall,  which  priest  Abraham  with  my 
assistance  had  prepared.  And  as  they  learned  their  letters  and  then 
began  to  repeat  a  sentence  of  the  Lord's  prayer,  for  the  first  time, 
with  a  delight  and  satisfaction  beaming  from  their  faces,  equalled 
only  by  the  novelty  of  their  employment,  I  could  understand  some- 
thing of  the  inspiration  of  Dr.  Chalmers,  when  he  pronounced  the 
Indian  boy  in  the  woods,  first  learning  to  read,  to  be  the  sublimest 
object  in  the  world. 

Jan.  19.  Seventeen  scholars  from  abroad  joined  our  school. 
Among  them  are  three  deacons  and  one  priest.  They  all  lodge  in 
a  single  large  room  in  one  of  our  houses. 

Jan.  23.  The  scholars  requested  permission  to  attend  our  En- 
glish worship.  We  of  course  made  no  objection.  They  attended, 
sat  very  still  and  listened,  though  they  knew  nothing  of  our  lan- 
guage. It  is  very  gratifying,  in  this  dark  and  distant  land,  to  have 
so  many  present  at  religious  worship.  Mar  Yohannan  took  his  seat 
by  my  side  in  the  desk,  He  now  understands  enough  of  English  to 
be  in  a  measure  interested  and  profited  by  attending  our  meetings. 
In  the  afternoon,  we  held  another  religious  service  in  the  school- 
room, for  the  benefit  of  the  scholars,  conducting  the  service  in  their 
own  language.  A  few  of  the  older  pupils  read,  each  a  verse,  which 
Mar  Yohannan  expounded,  occupying  all  the  time  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  very  few  suggestions  which  I  found  it  proper  to  add  to 
his  appropriate  and  impressive  remarks.  Mar  Yohannan  is  a  natu- 
ral orator.  Though  little  accustomed  to  preaching,  the  size  of  his 
audience  and  the  interest  of  the  undertaking  seemed  to  inspire  him 
to-day  with  unwonted  ardor,  and  rendered  him  quite  eloquent. 

Jan.  27.  Our  school  succeeds  very  well.  But  we  greatly  need 
slates,  pencils  and  other  suitable  apparatus.  By  constant  toil,  I 
succeed  in  furnishing  reading,  two  hours  per  day,  on  manuscript 
cards  in  the  Nestorian  language.  Two  hours,  the  scholars  read  the 
Scriptures,  in  the  ancient  Syx'izc,  which  they  do  not  understand,  but 
learn  to  pronounce  syllables,  form  words  and  spell,  in  that  way ; 


*  Byron. 


PRESSURE  OF  LABOR  MAR  JOSEPH, 


251 


and  two  hours  tliey  spend  in  writing  with  their  fingers  in  the  sand- 
boxes and  in  learning  arithmetic  from  the  abacus.  During  the  time 
devoted  to  the  two  hist  named  exercises,  a  class  from  the  older  schol- 
ars read  to  me  in  English.  Two  of  the  deacons  wlio  belong  to  the 
school  are  very  fine  young  men  and  render  important  assistance  to 
priest  Abraham,  as  monitors  of  classes;  and  by  alternating,  in  writ- 
mg,  they  are  able  to  copy  two  cards  a  day  for  the  use  of  the  school, 
in  connexion  with  their  own  studies. 

My  labors  at  this  time,  and  indeed  during  the  year,  were  very  press- 
ing. Eight  hours  in  a  day  I  was  occupied  over  the  language,  in  re- 
ducing it  to  a  written  and  grammatical  form  and  translating  portions 
of  Scripture  into  it  for  school-cards,  and  two  hours  I  taught  the  Eng- 
lish class  in  the  seminary;  in  addition  to  superintending  the  general 
atfairs  of  the  seminary — preaching  twice  on  the  Sabbath,  attending 
one  or  two  meetings  during  the  week,  and  performing  an  amount 
of  miscellaneous  labor  incidental  to  the  commencement  of  a  new 
mission,  which  seemed  often  of  itself  well  nigh  sufficient  to  require 
my  whole  time. 

Jan.  31.  Mar  Joseph,  the  bishop  resident  at  Ada,  passed  the 
Sabbath  with  Mar  Yohannan.  He  attended  our  English  service, 
this  morning,  and  I  had  thus  a  Nestorian  bishop  on  either  hand  in 
the  desk,  while  I  was  preaching.  Our  service  in  the  Nestorian 
language,  in  the  afternoon,  was  extremely  interesting.  Mar  Yo- 
hannan's  remarks  were  again  intelligent  and  impressive.  Mar  Jo- 
seph and  a  priest  from  his  village  listened  with  deep  attention.  At 
this  meeting,  we  have  a  constantly  increasing  congregation.  Last 
Sabbath,  Mar  Yohannan  repeated  at  the  commencement  of  the  ser- 
vices, a  short  prayer,  which  1  had  prepared  for  the  daily  use  of  the 
school.  To-day,  he  asked  me  whether  he  should  again  repeat  that 
prayer.  I  told  him  that  he  would  perhaps  prefer  to  make  a  short 
prayer  extempore.  "  No,"  said  he,  "I  cannot  pray  from  my  heart, 
so  well  as  that  prayer  is  written."  So  he  again  repeated  the  school 
prayer.  At  the  close  of  the  meeting,  I  requested  Mar  Yohannan 
to  invite  Mar  Joseph  to  add  a  few  remarks.  He  did  so,  but  Mar 
Joseph  declined,  being,  as  Mar  Yohannan  whispered  to  me  in  En- 
glish, ashamed  to  attempt  to  preach  extempore.  His  meaning  was, 
that  the  other  bishop  was  too  diffident  to  make  the  attempt.  Mar 
Joseph  expressed  himself  as  much  interested  in  the  service,  and  said 
that  he  rejoiced  to  see  such  a  commencement  of  preaching  the  gos- 
pel among  the  Nestorians.  The  contrast  appeared  to  be  striking  to 
him  as  well  as  to  the  rest,  to  their  worship  in  their  churches,  which 
consists  merely  of  reciting  their  liturgy  and  some  portions  of  the 
Scriptures  in  an  obsolete  language. 

I  have  often  been  inquired  of,  in  the  course  of  my  visit  to  the  U. 
States,  in  relation  to  the  character  of  Nestorian  preachijig.  The  fore- 
going pages  will  have  informed  the  reader  what  it  was,  if  indeed 
preaching  can  be  said  to  have  existed,  among  that  people,  when  we 
commenced  our  missionary  labors  ;  and  what  it  is  becoming,  under 


252 


NESTORIAN  PREACHING. 


the  influence  of  these  labors,  will  appear  in  subsequent  chapters. 
I  may  remark  in  general,  however,  that  it  still  differs  widely  and 
will  continue  thus  to  differ,  from  sermonizing,  in  the  Western  sense 
of  that  term.  The  Nestorians  never  think  of  limiting  the  subject  of 
a  discourse  to  a  single  text  of  Scripture,  but  usually  paraphrase  and 
expound  a  whole  chapter  or  at  least  a  paragraph.  Perhaps  we  may 
characterize  their  preaching  as  in  general  expository  ;  but  not  mere- 
ly so  ;  it  is  in  a  high  degree  discursive,  darting  from  Dan  to  Beer- 
sheba  on  the  wing  of  a  bold  figure  at  a  breath.  They  also  inter- 
mingle many  incidents  and  anecdotes  and  often  with  impressive 
effect.  I  had  on  one  occasion  described  to  priest  Abraham  the  par- 
rot— a  wonder  in  natural  history,  which  is  not  found  in  Northern 
Persia,  except  in  rare  instances,  when  it  is  carried  there  as  a  curi- 
osity. In  speaking  of  its  loquacious  and  imitative  powers,  I  men- 
tioned that  my  father,  when  I  was  a  small  boy,  purchased  a  parrot, 
for  the  gratification  of  his  children ;  but  in  attempting  to  carry  it 
home  in  a  cage,  he  found  that  the  bird  was  shockingly  profane — 
assailed  him  with  fearful  oaths — being  inconvenienced  and  provoked 
by  its  removal,  and  having  learned  to  use  that  dialect  at  a  public 
house  in  a  city ;  and  that,  lest  it  should  injure  his  children,  my  fa- 
ther opened  the  cage,  long  before  reaching  home  and  committed 
the  parrot  to  the  fields.  Some  time  after  this  conversation  I  hap- 
pened to  be  present  at  a  meeting,  where  priest  Abraham  was  ad- 
dressing a  congregation  on  the  subject  of  profaneness.  And  he  took 
me  by  surprise,  in  the  course  of  his  remarks,  by  introducing  the 
case  of  the  parrot,  from  which  he  drew  an  argument  and  left  an  im- 
pression that  his  hearers  will  never  forget,  by  first  describing  the 
bird  and  then  stating  in  detail  that  the  missionary's  father  had  such 
a  horror  and  dread  of  the  sin  of  profaneness,  that  he  would  not  car- 
ry home  the  parrot  he  had  purchased,  because  it  had  learned  to* 
repeat  a  few  wicked  words. — The  Nestorians  also  introduce  many 
scripture  quotations,  making  Scripture,  in  the  true,  evangelical 
method  of  preaching,  interpret  Scripture,  though  their  quotations 
are  far  enough  from  being  always  the  most  pertinent.  Mar  Yohan- 
nan,  on  one  occasion,  being  asked  by  a  young  clergyman,  in  the 
U.  S.,  whom  he  had  just  heard  preach,  '  what  is  the  style  of  Nesto- 
rian  preaching,'  replied,  in  his  broken  English,  "  we  preach  all 
from  the  Bible ;  but  you  take  one  word  from  the  Bible,  and  a  thou- 
sand words  from  America,''^ — referring  to  the  practice  of  writing 
sermons  from  a  single  text;  perhaps  also  half  seriously  chiding  the 
paucity  of  quotations  from  Scripture  in  some  sermons  to  which  he 
had  listened. 

We  find  it  expedient  to  adopt,  among  the  Nestorians,  a  style  of 
preaching  somewhat  analogous  to  that  here  described,  as  best  suited 
to  the  oriental  mind,  and  especially  in  its  uncultivated  state.  It  has 
been  well  remarked  that  there  is  little  logic — in  the  technical  sense 
of  that  word — in  the  Bible,  particularly  the  Old  Testament.  The 
Holy  Scriptures  are  doubtless  a  true  index  of  the  mould  in  which 


FASTS  INTRODUCTION  'FESTIVALS. 


253 


they  were  cast — Asiatic  mind,  at  the  periods  when  the  respective 
portions  were  written.  The  general  characteristics  of  mind,  as 
well  as  of  manners  and  customs,  in  Asia,  remain  essentially  the 
same;  and  a  highly  logical  sermon,  in  the  common  acceptation  of 
the  term,  would  produce  as  little  effect  on  an  audience  there,  at  the 
present  day,  as  it  would  have  produced  in  those  early  times.  Not 
that  logic,  learning  and  study  may  not  find  ample  scope,  in  preach- 
ing to  the  Nestorians.  Indeed,  without  these,  an  American,  or  Eu- 
ropean, will  be  ill  able  successfully  to  adapt  himself  to  circumstances 
so  different  firom  those  in  which  he  was  reared,  and  address  and  in- 
fluence minds  naturally  of  a  stamp  so  widely  diverse  from  those 
with  which  he  had  been  acquainted,  as  well  as  shrouded  in  igno- 
rance, warped  and  encumbered  by  prejudice  and  stupefied  by  general 
degradation. 

Feb.  1.  The  fast  of  Jonah,  as  the  Nestorians  denominate  it, 
commenced.  This  is  an  annual  fast  of  three  days,  observed  in  com- 
memoration of  Jonah's  being  swallowed  by  the  whale.  Most  of 
each  day  is  occupied  in  chanting  prayers  at  their  churches.  Like 
their  other  fasts,  it  seems  to  amount  to  little  more  than  a  senseless 
routine  of  forms,  and  their  prayers,  we  fear,  are  a  chattering  noise. 
During  their  fasts,  the  Nestorians  abstain  from  animal  food  ;  but 
only  in  Lent,  from  food  altogether.  Each  fast  is  anticipated  by  a 
Mdl-soma,  entrance  of  the  fast,  which  is  a  time  of  feasting,  and 
followed  by  an  Eeda,  festival,  which  are  seasons  of  the  most  dis- 
gusting dissipation.  In  this  way,  almost  the  whole  time  is  cut  up 
into  fasts  and  feasts — into  seasons  of  partial  abstinence  alternating 
with  brutal  indulgence ;  and  scarcely  a  single  week  remains,  during 
the  whole  year,  undisturbed  by  their  senseless  mummery  or  noisy 
revelling,  except  during  their  long  fast  before  Easter.  The  people 
proclaim,  with  much  self-complacency,  the  number  and  length  of 
their  fasts,  and  appear  to  think  themselves  very  religious,  from  the 
fact  that  about  one  half  the  year  is  included  in  their  periods  of  par- 
tial abstinence. 

The  following  catalogue  of  the  Nestorian  fasts  is  given  by  Messrs. 
Smith  and  Dwight,  with  their  usual  accuracy,  as  it  was  furnished 
them  by  Mar  Yohannan's  father.  "  It  being  Friday,  we  first  ques- 
tioned the  priest  respecting  the  fasts  of  his  church.  In  conjunction 
with  the  others  who  were  present,  he  informed  us  that  they  fast 
every  Wednesday  and  Friday;  twenty-five  days  before  Christmas; 
fifteen  days  before  the  feast  of  St.  Mary  ;  three  days  before  the  feast 
of  the  cross,  which  occurs  twelve  days  after  Christmas  ;  three  days 
before  the  feast  of  St.  John  ;  three  days  before  the  feast  of  Khodeera 
Nebhee  ;*  fifty  days  before  Easter,  including  Easter  Sunday,  when 
they  eat  meat ;  and  fifty  days  before  Pentecost,  the  observance  of 
which  is  optional  and  not  regarded  by  all.  We  asked,  as  he  fin- 
ished the  list,  if  there  are  no  more,  and  he  jocosely  replied,  '  Why, 


*  An  epithet  applied  to  Jonah. 


254 


EFFECTS  OF  THE  FASTS  AND  FESTIVALS. 


are  not  these  enough  ?  What  of  the  year  remains  for  us  to  eat  ?' 
In  none  of  their  fasts,  do  they  eat  any  animal  substance  whatever  ; 
and  in  Lent,  with  the  exception  of  Sundays  and  festivals,  they  eat 
but  twice,  once  after  mid-day,  and  once  after  evening  prayers,  and 
some  eat  only  the  latter  meal,"* 

I  know  not  what  more  artful  contrivance  Satan  could  have  in- 
vented, to  substitute  in  the  place  of  the  pure  religion  of  the  gospel 
which  works  by  love,  sanctifies  the  heart,  controls  the  life,  and  regu- 
lates the  conduct,  than  he  has  furnished  in  the  fasts  of  these  oriental 
churches.  By  common  consent,  it  is  lawful  and  proper  to  labor  and 
transact  business,  as  usual,  during  their  fasts.  The  only  difference 
between  this  and  other  time  is  abstinence  from  animal  food,  and  in 
the  morniniT,  in  time  of  Lent,  entire  abstinence.  No  matter  how 
richly  vegetable  dishes  are  served  up  during  these  seasons.  Indeed, 
the  palatable  preparation  of  fast-dishes  is  quite  a  science  among  them, 
and  walnut  oil,  from  the  Koordish  mountains,  is  in  high  requisition 
for  the  purpose. 

But  during  their  festivals  and  saints'  days,  it  is  regarded  as  highly 
improper  to  labor.  The  whole  time  must  then  be  devoted  to  eating, 
drinking  and  carousal.  According  to  priest  Abraham's  exposition 
of  the  subject,  they  do  not  regard  their  festivals  and  saints'  days  as 
holy  time,  in  the  same  sense  in  which  they  thus  esteem  the  Sabbath. 
But  fatn,  they  say,  is  always  determined  against  persons  who  labor 
on  those  days,  and  their  undertakings  will  invariably  be  thwarted, 
and  not  improbably  some  signal  calamity  will  also  visit  the  offender. 
It  is  not  easy  to  conceive  what  an  amount  of  evil  results  from  the 
weeks  of  idleness  and  the  general  check  to  industry,  caused  by  this 
ecclesiastical  prohibition  of  labor.  Happily,  our  school  is  not  much 
interrupted  by  it.  The  most  skilful  hair-splitters  among  the  Nesto- 
rians,  see  nothing  in  reading  or  the  study  of  arithmetic,  which  savors 
so  much  of  secular  labor  as  to  constitute  sin  or  incur  danger.  But 
wo  betides  the  boy,  or  the  man,  who  takes  his  pen  to  write  during 
these  festivals.   Writing  would  be  labor. 

While  our  hearts  are  often  ready  to  sink,  in  view  of  this 
degraded  state  of  the  Nestorians  and  their  gross  departures  from 
the  spirit  and  practice  of  the  gospel,  we  are,  at  the  same  time, 
cheered  by  circumstances  of  encouragement.  The  high  ecclesias- 
tics in  our  families,  and  many  others,  manifest  deep  interest  in  our 
instructions  and  evident  dissatisfaction  with  their  own  senseless  cere- 
monies. It  should  be  acknowledged,  moreover,  that  their  absti- 
nence from  wine,  which  the  Nestorians  observe  during  their  fifty 
days  of  Lent,  does  keep  the  people,  as  a  mass,soher,  during  that  pe- 
riod, and  affords  us  the  most  favorable  opportunity  in  the  whole  year 
for  preaching  to  them  the  gospel.  And  we  must  not  do  injustice  to 
the  general  subject  of  fasting.     Disgusted  with  the  flagrant  abuses 

*  Rcsparclics  in  Armenia,  Vol.  II.  p.  208.  Parts  only  of  the  paragraph  on 
this  subject  are  here  quoted. 


DISTURBANCE  IN  SCHOOL. 


255 


of  the  practice — nay,  its  almost  entire  perversion,  as  observed  by 
Papists  and  other  fallen  churches,  making  it,  as  they  do,  a  matter  of 
merit  and  even  a  work  of  supererogation,  have  not  Protestant  Chris- 
tians verged  to  the  opposite  extreme  ?  That  fasting  is  a  practice 
clearly  recognized  by  our  Saviour,  as  proper  to  be  observed  among 
his  followers,  is  obvious  from  the  passage  where  he  says,  "  when  ye 
fast,"  etc.,  assuming  its  existence,  and  then  gives  directions  respect- 
ing the  manner  and  spirit  in  which  it  should  be  practised.  And  we 
have  only  to  recur  to  the  biographies  of  eminent  saints,  in  every  age 
of  the  church,  to  learn  how  important  and  salutary  is  its  actual  ef- 
fect on  christian  character.*  While,  therefore,  we  guard  against  the 
abuses  and  the  deadly  effects  of  the  periodical  system  of  fasting,  as 
practised  by  merely  nominal  Christians,  should  we  not  be  equally 
careful  that  we  do  not  undervalue  or  neglect  private  fasting  and  oc- 
casional social  seasons,  in  connexion  with  prayer  and  humiliation, 
as  an  appointed  and  important  means  of  sanctification  ? 

Feb.  'i.  This  afternoon,  the  mother  of  three  of  the  scholars  came 
into  our  school  and  commenced  disturbance  by  ordering  her  sons 
to  go  home.  Priest  Abraham,  the  teacher,  was  at  church.  The 
monitor  was  frightened  and  sent  to  my  study  for  me.  As  I  entered 
the  school-room,  the  woman  turned  from  the  monitor  and  directed 
her  vociferations  to  me.  "My  boys,"  said  she,  "shall  stay  no 
longer.  They  are  not  slaves ;  they  are  related  to  the  melik  of  our 
village  ;  and  you,  sir,  shall  not  have  the  glory  and  the  benefit  of  their 
presence  in  your  school,  without  paying  them  wages."  Not  wishing 
to  join  in  the  encounter,  I  sent  a  boy  to  the  church  to  call  priest 
Abraham.  The  priest  soon  came,  and  the  woman,  being  one  of  his 
flock,  was  a  little  intimidated.  He  was  much  excited,  particularly 
by  the  insult  which  he  conceived  she  had  offered  to  me,  by  her  im- 
pertinent vociferations.  "  You  and  ray  nation,"  said  he,  addressing 
himself  to  her,  "  are  most  vile  and  ungrateful ;  and  it  is  on  this  ac- 
count that  the  Lord  permits  the  Muhatnmedans  to  oppress  us.  Take 
your  boys  and  go."  By  this  time,  Mar  Yohannan,  who  was  also  at 
the  church  and  had  received  some  intimation  of  the  trouble,  entered 
the  school-room.  He  reiterated,  in  yet  stronger  terms,  what  the 
priest  had  said,  and  told  the  scholars,  moreover,  that  every  one  who 
was  not  intending  to  remain  three  years,  must  leave  the  school  that 
moment ;  that  he  should  not  allow  the  American  gentlemen  who 
had  come  here  to  bless  and  save  his  people  to  be  thus  treated,  and 
30  on.  The  woman,  with  great  mortification,  took  her  boys  and 
departed.  The  scholars  uttered  and  reiterated  their  testimony  that 
she  is  one  of  the  worst  women  in  the  country  and  had  conducted 
most  disgracefully  in  this  instance.  But  we  have,  doubtless,  multi- 
tudes to  encounter  here,  who  are  just  as  low  and  mercenary  in  their 
feelings  and  equally  insensible  to  their  own  welfare.    Our  school, 


*  The  late  eminent  Dr.  Payson,  it  will  be  recollected,  was  in  the  practice 
of  fasting,  for  some  time,  one  day,  every  week. 


256 


SACRAMENT  PRIEST  TOHANNAN. 


however,  was  essentially  benefited  by  the  occurrence.  The  priest's 
and  bishop's  lectures  renninded  the  scholars  that  they,  and  not  the 
missionaries,  are  the  ones  benefitted  by  their  attending  our  school. 

Feb.  3.  The  fast  of  Jonah  closed  and  the  sacrament  was  ad- 
ministered in  the  Nestorian  church.  The  bishops  importuned  us  to 
attend  and  partake  with  them.  I  was  so  unwell  of  a  severe  cold  as 
to  be  unable  to  leave  my  room.  Providence  thus  furnished  me  with 
a  satisfactory  excuse  for  not  going  to  the  church,  had  I  been  dis- 
posed to  do  so  in  other  circumstances.  May  they  become  Christians 
in  heart  and  life,  as  well  as  in  name;  and  then  what  a  privilege 
will  it  be  to  unile  with  them  at  the  table  of  our  Lord.  At  evening. 
Mar  Joseph,  who  was  still  with  Mar  Yohannan,  called  at  my  room 
to  inquire  after  my  health.  "  You  were  unable  to  be  at  our  church 
to-day,"  said  he.  "  Yes,"  I  replied,  "  I  have  been  confined  to  the 
house."  "  May  God  restore  you  and  long  spare  your  life,"  continued 
Mar  Joseph  ;  "  I  trust  he  has  a  great  work  for  you  to  do,  for  our 
poor  people,  who,  we  are  sensible,  have  wandered  far  from  the  right 
way."  The  seriousness  with  which  he  spoke,  and  his  evident  so- 
licitude for  my  health,  made  me  happy  in  the  belief,  that  his  words 
expressed  the  sentiments  of  his  heart. 

Feb.  4.  Finding  work  enough  fully  to  occupy  priest  Abraham  in 
translation  and  the  preparation  of  school-cards — no  man  in  the 
province  being  able  to  use  the  pen  so  handsomely  as  he  can — we 
sent,  to-day,  to  a  village  ten  miles  distant  for  priest  Yohannan,  who 
has  an  excellent  reputation  for  a  Nestorian,  as  a  book-scholar,  to 
come  and  engage  as  teacher  in  our  school. 

Feb.  6.  Priest  Yohannan  came.  He  is  near  forty  years  of  age 
and  is  a  very  interesting  man, — the  best  scholar  in  Syriac  that  I 
have  met  with  among  this  people, — and  apparently  serious  and  up- 
right in  character.  At  evening  I  read  with  the  priests,  the  parable 
of  the  sower,  which  is  to  be  the  subject  at  our  afternoon  service  to- 
morrow. They  manifested  much  interest  in  my  explanation  of  the 
passage. 

Feb.  7.  In  the  absence  of  Mar  Yohannan,  priest  Yohannan  as- 
sisted me  in  conducting  the  Nestorian  service.  He  gave,  as  his 
own  thoughts,  the  substance  of  the  remarks  which  I  made  on  the 
passage  of  Scripture  contemplated  last  evening.  The  scholars  were 
very  attentive,  and  the  priests  appeared  solemn  and  much  interested 
in  the  meeting. 

Feb.  9.  The  priests  inquired  of  me  the  particular  object  of  our 
Monday  evening  prayer  meetings.  T  told  them,  that  we  attach  no 
importance  to  the  time,  but  our  object  is  often  to  stir  up  each  other's 
minds,  and  to  pray  for  ourselves,  our  friends  and  the  kingdom  of 
Christ  in  the  world.  And  in  further  explanation,  I  read  to  them 
Malachi  3:  16,  "  Then  they  that  feared  the  Lord  spake  often  one 
to  another,  and  the  Lord  hearkened  and  heard ;"  and  Hebrews  10; 
25,  "  Not  forsaking  the  assembling  of  yourselves  together  as  the 
manner  of  some  is ;  but  exhorting  one  another,  and  so  much  the 


EVENING  HIMN  MYSTIC  INTERPRETATIONS.  257 


more  as  ye  see  the  day  approaching."  The  idea  of  such  meetings 
seemed  new  and  interesting  to  the  priests,  and  they  expressed  deep 
regret  that  their  own  people  have  not  hearts  thus  to  assemble  and 

JPeb.  10.  This  evening  we  revised  the  beautiful  evening  hymn, 
commencing,  "  The  day  is  past," — which  I  lately  translated,  with 
Priest  Abraham's  assistance,  for  the  use  of  our  school.  The  priests 
appeared  enraptured  with  the  hymn,  so  much  so  that  they  conld 
scarcely  cease  singing  it  in  the  tune  to  which  I  adapted  the  trans- 
lation, though  both  were  alike  new  to  them.  The  modern  Syriac 
far  surpasses  our  own  tongue  in  the  softness  and  sweetness  of  its 
sounds. 

Feb.  11.  The  scholars  having  obtained  a  copy  of  the  translation 
of  the  new  hymn,  sung  it  this  evening  two  hours  or  more  of  their 
own  accord  in  their  room.  Their  style  of  singing  is,  to  be  sure, 
rude  enough;  but  it  is  gratifying  to  observe  such  an  interest  and 
effort  to  learn. 

Feb.  13.  We  studied  the  parable  of  the  wheat  and  the  tares, 
and  others  which  follow,  as  the  subject  of  our  religious  meeting 
to-morrow.  The  priests  were  again  deeply  interested  in  the  exer- 
cise. They  are  remarkably  docile,  and  ready  to  receive  my  ex- 
planations of  Scripture,  though  their  heads  were  so  long  since  filled 
with  their  own  mystic  interpretations.  The  same  childish  exposi- 
tions of  the  parables  of  our  Lord,  which  were  introduced  in  the 
early  centuries  and  have  so  often  since  been  repeated  in  the  oriental 
churches,  are  still  floating  in  all  their  primitive  freshness  among 
the  Nestorian  clergy.  These  must  be  gradually  removed — crowded 
out,  by  the  simple  truths  of  the  gospel.  The  human  mind,  every- 
where, far  more  than  nature  in  the  philosophy  of  the  schoolmen, 
abhors  a  vacuum.  It  avails  little  to  attempt  to  displace  error,  till 
truth  is  supplied  in  its  place. 

Feb.  14.  Priest  Abraham  assisted  me  in  conducting  the  Nesto- 
rian meeting.  Our  school-room  was  quite  full,  and  the  seriousness 
and  attention  of  all  present  were  most  encouraging.  The  priest 
was  very  accurate  in  giving  the  same  expositions  which  I  had  sug- 
gested in  our  private  meeting  the  evening  before,  with  a  single  ex- 
ception. On  the  parable  of  the  leaven,  forgetting  himself  for  the 
mort?ent,  he  started  upon  one  of  the  old  stereotyped  interpretations, 
according  to  which,  everi;  sentence  and  every  word  must  have  a 
specific,  figurative  application.  "Why,"  said  he,  "did  the  woman 
hide  the  leaven  in  three  measures  of  meal  1  I  will  tell  you  why; 
it  was  because  Noah  had  three  sons,  from  whom  the  whole  world 
was  peopled.  The  meal  is  the  world ;  and  tlie  three  sons  are  the 
three  races  of  men."  It  is  such  puerile  theology,  rather  than  those 
grosser  perversions  of  the  Bible  that  savor  of  blasphemy,  as  found 
in  the  Papal  and  other  oriental  churches,  that  we  have  to  displace 
from  the  minds  of  the  Nestorian  clergy.  In  the  evening,  we  invited 
33 


258 


TRANSLATING  THE  BIBLK  A  VISIT. 


the  scholars  to  our  dining-room,  to  spend  a  half  hour  in  singino" 
their  hymn.    It  was  a  delightful  season. 

Feb.  14.  We  commenced  the  great  workpf  translating  the  Bi- 
ble into  tlio  Nestorian  language.  May  the  Lord  prosper  this,  his 
own  work,  in  our  feeble  hands.  The  entire  Scriptures  now  exist 
in  the  ancient  Syriac — the  book-language — in  a  printed  form;  but, 
in  the  Jacobite  or  common  Syriac  character.*  While  this  ancient 
language  is  not  understood  by  the  people,  the  Jacobite  character  is 
detested  by  the  Nestorian  ecclesiastics,  (from  their  prejudices 
against  the  sect  who  use  it,)  even  those  who  are  able  to  read  the 
language  in  that  character,  as  well  as  their  own.  A  translation  of 
the  Bible  into  the  modern  tongue,  and  a  version  of  the  ancient  Syri- 
ac in  the  Nestorian  character,  are  both  therefore  greatly  needed. 

JFeb.  17.  A  considerable  number  of  our  scholars  went  home,  to 
engage  during  the  rest  of  the  week  in  a  season  of  feasting,  in  anti- 
cipation of  the  fifty  days'  fast  which  commences  next  Sabbath.  A 
wealthy,  influential  Nestorian,  from  Charbash,  a  village  two  miles 
distant,  called  to  invite  us  to  be  his  guests  to-morrow. 

Feb.  18.  Early  in  the  morning,  Iiorses  were  sent  from  ChSrbash 
for  the  ladies,  and  we  set  off  about  10  o'clock  on  our  visit.  Priest 
Yohaniian  being  well  acquainted  in  that  village  accompanied  us. 
Though  a  season  of  general  festivity,  no  importunity,  at  dinner, 
could  induce  him  to  taste  a  drop  of  wine.  He  had  formerly  been 
strongly  addicted  to  it,  as  we  had  before  been  informed ;  but  on 
coming  to  reside  with  us,  he  had  entirely  abandoned  the  use  of  it 
of  his  own  accord.  Our  host  humorously  remarked,  "  Priest  Yo- 
hannan  used  to  drink  wine  excessively;  but  he  has  become  a  sober 
man,  in  living  two  weeks  with  you."  The  priest  felt  much  morti- 
fied by  this  allusion  to  his  former  habits,  not  suspecting  that  we 
were  aware  of  them.  To  the  end  of  the  feast  he  drank  nothing 
stronger  than  water,  and  maintained  his  ground  with  the  firmness 
of  thorough  reformation.  Such  examples  encourage  us  to  adhere 
to  the  strictness  of  our  American  habits  in  matters  of  temperance, 
instead  of  attempting  any  compromise  with  the  people  of  these 
countries. 

Feb.  19.  For  several  days,  our  servant  has  expressed  strong  ap- 
prehension of  an  assault  from  thieves.  "  The  impression  is  general 
in  the  city,"  said  he  to  me  to-day,  "  that  a  gang  of  robbers  are  plot- 
ting an  attack  upon  you  by  night."  I  inquired,  why  ?  Whether 
there  was  any  dissatisfaction  on  account  of  our  residing  in  the  city. 
"Oh  no,"  said  he;  "  both  Muhammedans  and  Nestorians  are  your 
friends,  and  are  anxious  for  your  safety.  But  the  robbers  have 
conceived  the  idea,  that  you  have  chests  of  money  in  your  houses." 
In  Persia,  every  European  is  supposed  to  be  loaded  with  money. 
Our  situation  is  lonely,  ren)oved  as  we  are  entirely  from  European 
residents.    The  great  advantages,  however,  which  Oroomiah  offers 


*  The  Syriac  character  best  known  to  Europeans. 


APPREHENSION  AFFSHARS  LOOTEE.  259 


to  the  missionary  from  this  very  circumstance,  reconciles  us  to  our 
distant  seclusion.  No  mountain  of  European  vices  here  hes  between 
us  and  our  appropriate  labors.  And  no  army  of  vicious  foreigners 
are  here,  to  oppose  us  and  our  object,  by  slanderous  reports  and 
immoral  example.  It  is  a  circumstance  tliat  calls  for  devout  thank- 
fulness to  God,  that  this  promising  field  is  thus  fully  open,  without 
a  hand  or  a  tongue,  or  a  single  extraneous  influence  to  raise  a  bar- 
rier against  us. 

The  reader  will  better  understand  the  foregoing  allusion  to  our 
personal  insecurity,  as  well  as  the  general  state  of  our  field,  by 
knowing  more  of  the  prevailing  class  of  the  people  of  Oroomiah. 
The  Muhammedans  of  that  province,  who  are  at  least  three  fourths 
of  the  population,  are  Ajfshdrs — a  bold,  warlike  tribe,  originally 
from  Affghanistan,  or  Eastern  Persia.  They  have  such  a  reputation 
for  rudeness  and  barbarity,  compared  with  most  other  Persians, 
that  it  was,  at  that  time,  the  opinion  of  several  of  the  English  Em- 
bassy, who  were  deeply  interested  in  our  object,  that  we  could  not, 
with  a  due  regard  for  safety,  attempt  to  reside  among  them,. — espe- 
cially as  no  Europeans  ever  had  been  permanent  residents  in  the 
remote  city  of  Oroomiah.  He,  however,  who  has  tlie  hearts  of 
all  in  his  hands,  and  turneth  them  as  the  rivers  of  water  are  turned, 
so  favorably  disposed  the  mass  of  those  Muhammedans,  both  rulers 
and  people,  towards  us,  that  they  have  not  only  from  the  first  oifered 
us  no  molestation,  but  have  treated  us  with  uniform  kindness  and 
marked  respect  and  attention. 

But  there  is  at  Oroomiah,  as  in  all  parts  of  Persia,  a  class  of  pro- 
fessional rufliians,  called  Lootee,  taking  their  name  from  the  Patri- 
arch, Lot,  but  resembling  in  character  and  conduct  the  corrupt 
Sodomites,  who  vexed  the  soul  of  that  righteous  man.  Their  lawless 
acts  of  violence  on  property  and  often  on  persons,  being  usually 
mixed  with  a  measure  of  buffoonery,*  are  regarded  as  half  licensed, 
or  at  least  are  more  or  less  connived  at  by  the  constituted  authori- 
ties. These  desperadoes  are  always  the  instruments  of  violence, 
in  the  hands  of  the  fanatical  Moollahs,  whenever  they  attempt  to 
carry  a  point  against  laws  and  rulers  by  the  agency  of  a  mob,  which 
is  not  a  rare  occurrence  in  Persia.  The  reader  will  doubtless  call 
to  mind  the  fact,  that  the  Rev.  Mr.  Merrick  and  two  German  mis- 
sionaries, were  in  imminent  peril  from  this  class  of  rufhans  in  a 
terrific  excitement  of  this  description  at  Isfahan  in  1837.  The 
savage  Lootee  are  much  more  numerous  at  Oroomiah  than  in  most 
other  parts  of  Persia.  And  this  was  the  most  serious  ground  of  the 
apprehensions  of  our  English  friends  and  of  our  own  solicitude  for 
our  personal  security. 

The  concern  of  our  English  friends  for  our  safety  at  Oroomiah 


*  The  Persians  say  that  a  good  Lootee  ought  to  be  able  to  kugh,  cry, 
weep,  sit  still  and  dance,  at  tne  same  moment.  Some  of  these  jesters  ap- 
proach very  near  this  idea  of  perfection. — Maicolnts  Hist.  Vol.  II.  p,  443. 


260 


PRECAUTIONS  OF  ENGLISH  FRIENDS- 


did  not  rest  in  idle  expressions.  Though  widely  separated  from 
us,  they  still  spared  no  pains  in  seeking  to  promote  our  security, 
particularly  by  addressing  letters  to  the  authorities  of  the  province, 
and  requesting  Persian  nobles  wlio  belonged  in  Orootniah,  but  were 
residing  at  the  capital,  to  write  to  their  friends  at  home,  commend- 
ing us  to  their  kindness  and  protection.  As  an  illustration  of  the 
exertions  of  these  English  friends,  in  our  behalf,  after  our  settlement 
there,  as  well  as  for  the  intelligence  which  they  communicate, 
I  insert  the  following  extracts  of  letters  received  from  two  of  them. 
The  first  is  from  Dr.  Riach,  "the  beloved  physician,"  who  met  us 
on  our  way  to  Persia,  and  whom  we  have  since  had  frequent  occa- 
sion to  mention  in  onr  communications,  as  a  constant  friend  and 
invaluable  helper  in  our  missionary  work. 

'TcAmn,  Nov.  14,  1835. 

Dear  Mr.  P. 

I  hope,  by  Sir  John  Campbell,  who  leaves  this  for  Tabreez  to- 
morrow, to  be  able  to  send  you  letters  to  the  Oroomiah  authorities, 
from  Meerza  Bala,  the  Hakim  Bashee  (chief  physician)  here,  and 
who  knows  them  well,  which  will  be  useful.  As  Sir  John  is  him- 
self acquainted  with  them  and  proposes  to  give  you  letters,  I  hardly 
think  anything  more  will  be  required  for  you  for  some  time,  and  be 
assured  that  as  soon  as  I  can  see  the  time  for  asking  for  letters 
from  the  great  men  here,  that  I  will  not  let  the  opportunity  slip. 
As  yet,  the  subject  of  your  mission  has  not  been  hinted  at,  as  far  as 
I  know,  by  Mr.  Ellis,  and  indeed  no  business  of  any  kind  has  yet 
been  transacted  with  the  wise  men  of  this  eastern  court.  Never 
doubt  that  I  take  unceasing  interest  in  everything  which  interests 
you,  or  which  may  affect  your  comfort  or  happiness.  I  shall  be 
delighted  to  hear  of  and  from  you  as  often  as  possible,  and  recollect 
that  my  anxiety  about  you  will  increase  greatly,  after  you  enter  on 
your  proper  field  of  labor. 

That  God  may  bless,  protect  and  direct  you  all  is  the  sincere 
prayer  of, 

Yours  most  truly, 
(Signed)  J.  P.  Riach." 

The  following  extracts  from  a  letter  from  Sir  John  Campbell, 
the  generous  author  of  our  release  from  captivity  in  Georgia,  written 
on  the  eve  of  his  leaving  Persia,  will  serve  further  to  illustrate  the 
kind  agency  of  these  English  gentlemen  in  our  behalf. 

"  Tahreez,  Dec.  6,  1835. 

My  dear  Sir, 

I  arrived  here  yesterday,  having  been  unavoidably  detained  in 
Tehran  by  business  and  sickness,  and  now  with  much  reluctance 
being  compelled  to  take  the  route  of  Erzroom  and  Trebizond,  ow- 
ing to  the  tedious  quarantines,  in  the  Russian  territory.  Previous 


COMMENDATION  TO  PERSIAN  AUTHORITIES. 


261 


to  leaving  Tehran,  the  accompanying  letters  from  the  Emeer-i-ni- 
zdm,  and  the  Hakim  Bdshce,  addressed  to  their  friends  in  Oroomiah, 
in  your  behalf,  were  sent  to  me,  and  I  have  now  the  pleasure  to  for- 
ward them  with  two  from  myself,  one  to  the  governor  and  the  other 
to  Absomet  Khan,  who  perhaps  may  not  recollect  me,  but  I  beg  you 
will  call  me  to  his  remembrance,  by  stating  that  I  commanded  the 
regiment  of  cavalry  of  which  he  was  colonel  at  the  chcmdn  o{  Au- 
vdk,  and  that  I  was  then  generally  known  in  Persia  by  the  name  of 
'Jan  Sahib.' 

Most  sincerely  do  I  wish  you  all  the  success  your  heart  can  de- 
sire in  the  prosecution  of  your  praiseworthy  labors,  and  may  the 
light  of  education  through  your  endeavors  be  shed  upon  the  unhap- 
py and  oppressed  Nestorians.  I  believe  the  field  to  be  favorable  to 
your  efforts,  and  unencumbered  with  those  difficulties  which  would 
attend  similar  exertions  among  the  bigotted  [^Miihammedan]  inhabi- 
tants of  this  ill-fated  country.  They  are  said  to  be  willing  and  do- 
cile and  desirous  of  instruction  ;  and  though  I  am  about  to  leave 
the  kingdom,  I  shall  be  glad  to  hear,  whenever  you  have  leisure,  of 
the  progress  you  are  making,  and  if  I  can  be  of  any  service  to  Mrs. 
Perkins  or  yourself  in  London,  I  hope  you  will  not  hesitate  to  let 
me  know. 

To  Mrs.  Perkins  I  beg  to  offer  my  very  kindest  regards  and  with 
sincere  wishes  for  your  mutual  prosperity  and  happiness  and  your 
own  success. 

Believe  me,  very  dear  Sir,  most  truly  yours, 
(Signed)  J.  N.  R.  CAMPUiiLL." 

"  P.  S.  My  dear  Sir, — I  have  just  received  from  Mr.  Nisbet, 
your  very  kind  and  gratifying  letter  with  the  valuable  token  of  re- 
membrance you  left  for  me  in  Tabreez.  Most  grateful  do  1  feel  for 
your  recollection  of  me  at  a  moment  when  the  arrangements  for 
your  future  establishment  at  Oroomiah,  so  fully  occupied  your  time, 
and  most  grateful  are  your  expressions  for  the  trifling  attentions  I 
have  been  able  to  show  towards  Mrs.  Perkins  and  yourself,  since 
your  arrival  in  Persia.  I  have  done  no  more  than  fellow-feeling 
demanded,  and  regret  that  it  was  not  in  my  power  to  procure  aRak- 
kam  [order]  from  the  Shah;  for  it  would  have  afforded  me  very 
sincere  pleasure  to  have  contributed  that  aid  towards  the  furtherance 
of  your  missionary  labors. 

I  quit  Persia  with  some  regret,  as  I  am  deeply  interested  in  her 
welfare,  and  in  spite  of  the  gloomy  aspect  of  affairs  and  the  fatal 
blindness  to  everything  but  the  enjoyment  of  a  fool's  paradise  which 
deludes  the  king,  I  do  not  despair  of  seeing  Persia  improve,  though 
it  must  be  acknowledged  that  every  species  of  imperfection  and  cor- 
ruption reigns  throughout  the  administration;  and  the  superstitions 
and  fatal  tenets  of  Soofeeism,  are  making  a  progress  which  must 
lead  to  a  definitive  ascendancy,  or  to  a  serious  and,  I  fear,  not  very 
tranquil  schism  between  the  Muhammedans  and  the  illuminati  of 
Persia. 


262 


VISIT  FROM  MISSIONAEIES  PRIEST  ZADOC. 


r  repeat  my  earnest  wishes  for  your  complete  success  in  your  un- 
dertakings ;  and  that  every  personal  happiness  and  prosperity  may 
be  the  Jot  of  Mrs.  Perkins  and  yourself,  is  the  sincere  desire  of, 
My  dear  Sir,  yours  most  truly, 
(Signed)  J.  N.  R.  Campbell." 

These  timely  exertions  of  our  English  friends  contributed  much 
to  the  security  of  our  residence  at  Oroomiah,  and  events  that  subse- 
quently occurred  in  our  experience  which  will  be  noticed  in  their 
place,  were  so  ocerruled  by  Providence  as  ultimately  to  relieve  us 
almost  entirely  of  the  apprehension  of  personal  insecurity  or  an- 
noyance in  our  remote  and  lonely  situation. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

JOURNAL  :  MARCH— JULY,  1S36. 

The  topics  embraced  in  this  chapter,  as  also  in  others  which  fol- 
low, are  too  numerous  to  admit  of  a  general  title.  The  period  em- 
braced in  the  Journal,  in  such  cases,  is  given  ;  and  the  leading  sub- 
jects are  found,  as  hitherto,  at  the  head  of  each  page,  and  more 
specifically,  in  the  table  of  contents. 

March  8.  We  were  cheered  by  the  arrival  of  our  German  friends, 
Messrs.  Haas  and  Hoernle,  from  Tabreez.  The  former  brought 
his  little  son,  who  has  long  been  ill  of  a  chronic  diarrhoea,  a  com- 
mon disease  among  children  here,  for  the  benefit  of  change  of  air 
and  medical  prescription  ;  and  the  latter  intends  residing  in  our 
city,  a  short  time,  that  he  may  the  more  advantageously  prosecute 
his  inquiries  respecting  the  Koords.  To  us,  in  our  loneliness,  the 
visit  of  these  missionary  brethren  is  very  refreshing. 

March  J 9.  Priest  Zadoc,  a  brother  of  Mar  Shimon,  the  Nesto- 
rian  Patriarch,  is  with  us  on  a  visit.  He, is  rather  intelligent  for  a 
rode  mountaineer,  quite  shrewd,  very  tall,  and  a  remarkably  fine- 
looking  man.  Last  evening,  the  high  ecclesiastics  in  our  families — 
the  bishops — and  this  priest  Zadoc,  lowered  down  their  clerical 
dignity  so  far  as  to  engage  in  the  sport  of  wrestling.  Priest  Yo- 
hannan,  the  teacher  of  our  school,  who  lodges  in  the  same  apart- 
ment, was  asleep  at  the  time,  and  the  reverend  wrestlers,  in  their 
dexterous  feats,  fell  upon  him  and  well  nigh  crushed  him.  He  has 
been  scarcely  able  to  instruct  the  school,  to-day,  and  says  that  he 
verily  thought  our  house  was  falling  by  the  shock  of  an  earthquake, 
when  the  mammoth  priest  Zadoc  came  down  upon  him.  These 
ecclesiastics  are  exceedingly  ashamed  and  would  gladly  have  con- 


»'l!)Kt>T   ZAonC   WHiriHEl-f  THK    Nt  S  lOM  IAN  I'.nKIAHOIl. 


lord's  SUPPER' — LETTER  TO  MAR  SHIMON. 


263 


cealed  the  matter ;  but  priest  Yohannan  was  so  much  injured  as  to 
require  medical  attention  and  thus  the  whole  affair  was  revealed. 

March  21.  This  evening,  we  celebrated  the  Lord's  supper. 
Hitherto  since  our  arrival,  we  have  attended  the  service  in  private; 
but  priest  Zadoc  had  importuned  me  several  days  to  administer  the 
ordinance  while  he  is  here,  that  he  might  once  sit  at  the  Lord's  ta- 
ble with  "those  who,"  to  use  his  own  language,  "so  much  resem- 
ble the  apostles."  We  accordingly  in  this  instance  admitted  him, 
and  the  bishops  and  priests  who  live  in  our  families,  to  partake 
with  us.  Though  we  have  much  reason  to  fear  that  they  are  still 
in  the  bondage  of  sin,  we  dared  not  close  the  door  of  the  Lord's  ta- 
ble against  their  earnest  importunity — regularly  professing  Chris- 
tians as  they  are,  while  their  outward  conduct  is  in  general  unex- 
ceptionable. The  question,  however,  was  a  trying  one  and  we 
deeply  felt  our  need  of  wisdom  from  above  to  guide  us  on  the  sub- 
ject. The  season  was  to  us,  and  apparently  to  all  present,  very  in- 
teresting and  solemn.  I  read  and  explained  in  the  native  language 
the  eleventh  chapter  of  the  first  epistle  to  the  Corinthians  and  dwelt 
at  length  on  the  apostle's  caution  against  eating  and  drinking  at  the 
Lord's  table  "  unworthily." 

March,  26.  Wrote  a  letter  to  Mar  Shimon,  the  Patriarch,  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  wishes  of  his  brother,  priest  Zadoc,  who  had  re- 
peatedly requested  one  to  carry  home  with  him.  I  give  it  to  the 
reader,  that  he  may  the  better  appreciate  the  Patriarch's  answer, 
which  he  will  meet  under  the  date  of  its  reception. 

To  Mar  Shimon,  Archbishop  and  Patriarch  of  the  Nestorians : 

Reveren^d  StR, — Through  the  mercy  and  grace  of  our  Lord  Je- 
sus Christ,  I  and  my  wife  and  Dr.  Grant  and  his  wife  have  journeyed 
with  safety  from  the  distant  land  of  our  fathers,  which  is  the  New 
World,  and  have  at  length  the  happiness  to  find  a  home  among  your 
people  in  the  province  of  Oroomiah. 

We  and  our  fellow  Christians  in  America  have  heard,  with  deep 
sorrow,  of  the  trials  and  sufferings  which  you  and  your  people  have 
so  long  endured,  in  these  lands  of  Muhammedan  oppression.  And 
it  is,  be  assured,  our  ardent  desire  and  unceasing  prayer,  that  the 
Lord  of  Hosts  may  at  all  times  be  your  Deliverer  and  Protector, 
and  that  the  richest  blessings  of  heaven  may  be  poured  abundantly 
upon  you  and  your  nation.  And  whatever  we  shall  be  able  to  ac- 
complish, to  aid  you  and  your  people,  which  you  and  they  shall  de- 
sire, by  way  of  establishing  schools  and  circulating  the  Scriptures, 
we  shall  be  most  happy  to  do.  We  are  servants  of  the  Lord  Jesus 
Christ  and  your  servants  for  Jesus'  sake. 

We  have  much  pleasure  in  becoming  acquainted  with  your  good 
bishops  and  your  people  in  Oroomiah.  Of  late  we  have  also  had 
the  satisfaction  of  receiving  a  visit  from  your  venerable  brother,  the 
learned  priest  Zadoc.  Still  greater  would  be  our  happiness,  to  be- 
come acquainted  with  yourself;  and  we  indulge  the  fond  hope,  that, 


264 


8AUD0C— 'ASSUMED  CONgEq,UENCE. 


should  Providence  permit,  we  may,  at  some  future  time,  when  we 
shall  have  become  able  to  speak  your  language  with  ease,  do  our- 
selves, the  pleasure  to  visit  you. 

That  your  life  and  health,  Reverend  Sir,  may  be  precious  in  the 
sight  of  the  Lord,  and  that  yours  may  be  the  exalted  privilege  of 
those  of  whom  the  prophet  says,  "  they  that  be  wise  shall  shine  as 
the  brightness  of  the  firmament,  and  they  that  turn  many  to  right- 
eousness, as  the  stars  forever  and  ever," 
Is  the  fervent  prayer  of. 

Yours  very  respectfully  and.  sincerely, 
(Signed)  J.  Perkins. 

March  27.  A  Mu hammed  an,  Saudoc  by  name,  who  was  formerly 
my  servant  and  is  now  in  the  employ  of  Mr.  Nisbet,  came  recently 
to  Oroomiah  on  business.  As  he  had  occasion  to  remain  here  a 
few  days,  unoccupied,  we  hired  him  to  return  to  Tabreez,  in  the  in- 
terval and  bring  us  missionary  funds,  not  being  able  ourselves,  with- 
out much  difficulty,  to  leave  our  work  for  that  purpose,  and  it  is  not 
practicable  to  have  our  bills  negotiated  at  Oroomiah.  Saudoc  rode 
my  horse.  When  he  had  been  absent  some  days  longer  than  we 
anticipated,  we  became  apprehensive  that  he  had  proved  treacher- 
ous and  absconded.  I  started  therefore  this  morning,  in  a  heavy 
storm  of  rain,  to  go  to  Tabreez  and  see  what  had  become  of  him, 
talcing  with  me  a  Nestorian  attendant.  Our  ride  over  the  plain  was 
very  unpleasant,  the  deep  mud  at  this  season,  softened  by  the  rain, 
rendering  much  of  the  road  almost  impassable.  We  reached  Koosh- 
chee,  a  Muhammedan  village  forty  miles  distant  from  the  city,  after 
sunset,  and  stopped  there  for  the  night.  As  a  villager  was  conduct- 
ing us  into  his  yard  for  lodgings,  a  boy  led  my  old  horse  out  of  the 
stable  to  water,  which  was  my  first  intimation  that  Saudoc  was  there, 
on  his  way  to  Oroomiah.  I  was  much  relieved  by  meeting  him  with 
our  funds,  so  near  the  city,  but  was  not  a  little  pained,  and  at  the 
same  time  somewhat  amused,  to  find  wliat  airs  of  consequence  he 
was  assuming  among  the  villagers.  On  seeing  my  old  horse,  my 
Nestorian  attendant  instantly  forced  him  from  the  boy  who  was 
leading  him  to  water,  detnanding,  "  7ohose  horse  is  this'?"  "The 
Emeer-i-nizam's,  (commander  in  chief's,)  artlessly  responded  the 
astonished  boy.  The  explanation  of  this  answer  was,  that  Saudoc, 
who  is  capable  of  personating  almost  any  character,  had  on  his  ar- 
rival at  the  village  announced  himself  as  a  Persian  noble,  a  deputy 
of  the  commander  in  chief — and  had  required  of  the  villagers  atten- 
tions and  gratuitous  services,  corresponding  to  his  assumed  rank 
and  importance.  One  of  the  unsuspecting  villagers  was  according- 
ly leading  his  horse  to  water,  a  second  was  washing  his  feet,  a  third 
brushing  his  boots  and  others  preparing  for  him  a  sumptuous  meal. 
Saudoc  was  a  little  disconcerted  by  my  sudden  appearance,  particu- 
larly as  the  unceremonious  seizure  of  the  old  horse,  by  my  Nesto- 
rian companion,  excited  wonder  and  inquiry  among  the  villagers. 


PERSIAN  TACT  IN  BKCEPTION. 


265 


He  soon  became  composed,  however,  and  readily  satisfied  the  peo- 
ple by  telling  them,  as  I  afterwards  learned,  that  I  was  his  friend, 
and  had  rode  forty  miles  in  the  rain,  that  day,  for  the  sole  purpose 
of  showing  him  the  respect  and  attention  of  coming  so  far  to  meet 
him  !  As  he  is  a  very  good  specimen  of  Persian  tact  and  skill  in 
assuming  and  sustaining  borrowed  airs,*  I  may  give  the  reader  one 
or  two  more  adventures  of  his.  He  is  the  same  individual  who  ac- 
companied me  into  Turkey,  and  silenced  the  inquiries  of  the  Koord- 
ish  chief  that  met  us  on  the  way,  by  reporting  me  to  be  an  ambas- 
sador, with  an  armed  retinue  in  the  rear.  While  at  Erzroom,  on 
that  tour,  he  one  day  fell  into  a  quarrel  with  a  Turkish  military  of- 
ficer, a  captain  in  rank,  who  struck  him  in  the  altercation.  Sau- 
doc,  though  a  stranger  in  the  place,  lost  no  time  in  making  his  way 
directly  to  the  palace  of  the  Pasha,  and  announced  himself  as  the 
Mehmandar  (convoy)  of  an  English  noble,  and  represented  his  own 
consequence  and  the  outrage  he  had  received  in  so  graphic  and  glar- 
ing a  manner,  that  the  Pasha  apprehended  the  officer  and  bastina- 
doed him  severely,  without  making  an  inquiry.  At  evening,  Sau- 
doc  returned  to  my  lodgings  and  detailed  to  me  the  adventure,  and 
on  my  asking  him  why  he  did  not  come  to  me  with  his  difficulty,  he 
replied)  "  I  knew  you  would  pronounce  me  as  much  to  blame  as  the 
Turk,  and  would  not  allow  me  to  go  to  the  Pasha,  and  complain." 

At  a  subsequent  period,  Saudoc  was  sent  to  Oroomiah,  by  a  na- 
tive merchant  of  Tabreez,  with  goods  to  peddle.  To  the  custom- 
house officers,  on  this  occasion,  he  declared  that  his  loads  belonged 
to  us,  in  order  that  they  might  pass  free  of  duty,  knowing  that  our 
boxes  of  books,  etc.,  were  allowed  to  pass  free.  To  the  governor, 
he  announced  himself  as  Saudoc  beg  (bey)  a  companion  in  trade  of 
an  English  merchant,  well  known  and  much  respected  in  Persia. 
And  to  us,  he  presented  himself  as  having  risen  to  the  grade  of  a 
merchant  trading  on  his  own  responsibility.  "We  happened,  about 
the  same  time,  to  call  on  the  governor,  and  his  Excellency  gravely 
inquired  whether  we  were  acquainted  with  Saudoc  beg,  the  compan- 
ion of  an  English  merchant,  and  then  in  the  ctiy  ;  and  his  Excellen- 
cy was  not  a  little  mortified,  in  view  of  the  attentions  which  he  had 
shown  the  said  Saudoc  beg,  when  we  informed  him,  in  regard  to  his 
real  standijig  and  character. 

All  classes  in  Persia  are  thus  given  to  duplicity.  I  have  known 
ignorant  muleteers  practise  artful  evasions  and  intrigues  that  have 
equally  pained  and  astonished  me.  On  reaching  a  village  in  Tur- 
key, in  one  instance,  our  muleteer  turned  out  his  horses  upon  a  fine 
lot  of  mowing.  The  villagers  remonstrated  and  threatened  to  report 
him  to  their  Pasha,  who  was  expected  to  pass  that  way,  the  same  day. 
Who  is  the  Pasha  1"  replied  the  muleteer  with  the  most  perfect 

*  The  reader  who  is  acquainted  with  Morier's  novel,  entitled,  H^jee  Baba 
in  Persia,  may  imagine  the  hero  of  that  work  to  be  personified  in  this  same 
Saudoc. 


34 


266 


EXAmNATION  OF  THE  SCHOOL  DANCING. 


non-chalance.  "Why  this  gentleman  is  an  ambassador,  whom  I  am 
conducting  to  Persia  ;  and  your  Pasha  is  coming  this  way,  only  to 
escort  him  through  the  country."  The  poor  villagers,  not  knowing 
but  every  European  might  be  an  ambassador,  however  small  his  reti- 
nue and  humble  his  equipage,  were  frightened  and  silenced,  by 
this  reply  of  the  muleteer,  and  would  have  allowed  their  mowing  to 
be  fed  down  by  his  horses,  without  another  word  of  remonstrance, 
had  I  not  interfered  in  their  favor. 

April  5.  We  held  an  examination  of  our  school  and  the  first 
term  closed.  I  have  attended  many  literary  examinations  in  Amer- 
ica; but  never  have  I  witnessed  a  scene  which  equalled  the  intel- 
lectual, as  well  as  the  moral,  sublimity  of  to-day's  exhibition, — 
more  than  thirty  young  Nestorians,  here  in  the  heart  of  Asia,  scarce- 
ly three  months  in  school,  yet  acquitting  themselves  with  a  degree 
of  promptness  and  propriety,  which  I  never  saw  surpassed.  My 
heart  swells  with  gratitude  to  God,  in  view  of  what  I  have  this  day 
beheld.  Most  amply  am  I  repaid  for  all  the  care  and  toil  which  I 
have  bestowed  on  this  our  first  missionary  school.  We  are  much 
cheered  with  the  hope,  that  this  seminary  is  destined  in  the  hands 
of  the  Lord,  to  become  a  radiant  centre,  from  which  a  flood  of  light 
shall  go  forth,  in  ail  directions,  to  bless  these  benighted  regions. 
As  most  of  the  two  weeks'  vacation  of  our  school  is  to  be  occupied 
with  the  religious  festival  of  Easter,  our  translators  have  also  gone 
home.  A  mountain  weight  of  labor  and  care  seems  to  be  taken 
from  me  in  their  absence  and  the  dispersion  of  the  school.  We 
gave  to  three  of  the  boys  who  are  extremely  indigent,  yet  good  schol- 
ars, a  suit  of  plain  clothes  each,  and  engaged  to  continue  to  clothe 
them  on  condition  that  their  parents  shall  keep  them  in  school  seven 
years,  that  they  may  become  thoroughly  educated  teachers.  Each 
suit  of  clothes,  including  a  cap,  cost  one  dollar  and  seventy-five 
cents.  The  change  in  the  appearance  of  the  boys,  on  taking  off 
their  tattered  garments  and  putting  on  new  ones,  was  scarcely  less 
striking  than  the  metamorphoses  which  take  place  in  some  of  the 
lower  orders  of  the  animal  kingdom.  The  scholars  all  manifested  a 
strong  attachment  to  the  school,  when  they  left  it,  and  said  they 
should  be  anxious  soon  to  return. 

April  11.  We  visited  G5og-tapa,  in  compliance  with  an  invita- 
tion sent  to  us  yesterday.  As  we  approached  the  village,  our  atten- 
tion was  arrested  by  hundreds  of  children  and  youth  of  both  sexes, 
assembled  on  the  side  of  the  bill  that  gives  name  to  the  village,  en- 
gaged in  dancing  on  the  bare  ground.  This  is  a  very  favorite 
amusement,  among  the  Nestorians,  during  their  fe.stivals.  The 
males  and  females,  alternating  in  a  line,  interlock  their  fingers,  and 
form  a  circle  or  semi-circle,  and  thus  move  a  few  yards  in  one  direc- 
tion and  then  back,  in  a  measured  kind  of  jump,  usually  in  connex- 
ion with  the  harsh  rattle  and  screech  of  rude  drums  and  clarionets, 
and  the  gingling  of  the  strings  of  coarse  metal  ornaments,  with 
which  the  girls  on  such  occasions  are  heavily  loaded. 


A  SHERIFF  MUHAMMEDAN  WEDDING. 


267 


We  called  at  the  house  of  priest  Abraham,  where  Mar  Elias,  the 
bishop  resident  in  this  village,  soori  joined  us,  and  together  we  as- 
cended the  beautiful  hill  to  survey  the  plain.  Hundreds  of  tlie  vil- 
lagers gathered  around  us,  with  gleeful  countenances,  but  their  joy 
was  soon  dissipated,  by  the  appearance  of  a  Miihammedan  mohasil, 
sheriff,  among  them,  accompanied  by  two  soldiers,  to  collect  taxes. 
The  sheriff  was  under  some  restraint  by  our  presence,  and  was 
therefore  milder  than  usual  in  his  measures  to  extort  money  from 
the  Nestorians.  We  dined  with  the  bishop,  with  whom  we  had  an 
extremely  interesting  visit.  I  find  no  Nestorian,  whose  conversation 
savors  so  much  of  seriousness  and  apparent  religious  feeling  as 
that  of  Mar  Elias ;  and  he  has  the  reputation  among  his  people  of 
being  the  most  pious  man — man  of  Gud,  as  the  Eastern  phrase  is — 
in  the  whole  province.  He  loves  to  talk  of  Christ  and  salvation, 
and  I  almost  dare  to  hope,  that  he  has  felt  the  power  of  the  gospel 
in  his  heart. 

In  the  evening,  we  attended  a  Miihammedan  wedding,  to  which 
we  had  received  a  repeated  invitation.  The  bridegroom  is  the  son 
of  a  Khan,  very  high  in  rank,  who  resides  quite  near  us.  We 
called  at  the  door  by  which  we  had  been  accustomed  to  enter  the 
Khan's  mansion,  but  were  informed  that  the  house  was  filled  with 
ladies,  who  had  assembled  there  to  celebrate  the  wedding;  and  we 
were  directed  to  the  next  door — the  house  of  the  Khan's  brother. 
Persian  females  are  not  allowed  to  be  present  with  males  at  wed- 
dings. The  guest-chamber  to  which  "'e  were  conducted,  is  a 
splendid  room,  fifty  feet  long  and  twenty  feet  wide,  elegantly  car- 
petted.  Carpets,  and  the  mangel,  {fire-pan,*)  in  winter,  are  the 
only  articles  of  furniture  used  by  the  nobility  in  Persia.  Sitting 
upon  the  floor  and  eating  with  the  fingers,  are  economical  customs. 
A  row  of  Persian  nobles  sat  shoulder  to  shoulder  around  the  great 
hall.  At  the  head,  was  Jenghair  Khan,  eldest  son  of  the  governor. 
As  we  entered  the  room,  he  rose  and  beckoned  us  to  seats  by  him- 
self Thus  seated,  we  had  on  one  hand  this  son  of  the  governor, 
a  high  Moollflh,  a  Koordish  Pasha  from  the  region  of  Mesopotamia, 
Khans,  begs,  sultans,  and  so  on,  in  a  descending  order,  down  to 
the  servants  who  stood  around  the  door.  On  the  other  hand  sat 
the  chief  Moollah  of  the  province ;  next  the  commander  of  the 
troops  pf  Oroomiah  ;  after  him  a  younger  son  of  the  governor,  and 
Khans,  begs,  etc.,  descending  in  gradation  as  described  on  the 
other  side.  The  utmost  precision  is  observed  in  being  seated  in 
company  according  to  rank  in  Persia,  an  observance  which  iijiparts 
peculiar  vividness  in  the  injunction  of  Christ,  "  When  thou  art 
bidden  of  any  man  to  a  wedding,  sit  not  down  at  the  highest  room, 
(place,)  lest  a  more  honorable  marj  than  thou  be  bidden  of  him; 

**  This  is  an  open  copper  vessel,  about  two  feet  in  diameter  and  six  or  eight 
inches  deep,  mounted  on  a  pedestal  or  on  four  leg's,  about  a  foot  from  the 
floor.  It  is  filled  with  coals,  previously  ignited  in  another  apartment;  a 
quince  is  often  laid  upon  the  fire,  to  fill  the  room  with  a  pleasant  odor. 


268 


E>rBARRASSMENT  ENTERTAINMENT. 


and  he  that  bade  thee  and  him  come  and  say  to  thee,  give  this  man 
place;  and  thou  begin  with  shame  to  take  the  lowest  room." 
As  we  sat  among  these  high  Persian  dignitaries — thnj,  easy  and 
graceful  in  their  loose  flowing  robes* — we,  girded  and  constrained 
in  our  tight  coats  and  pantaloons,  with  a  feeling  of  nakedness  by 
the  contrast,  and  tilted  in  the  half  sitting  Persian  posture  upon  our 
feet,  which  would  soon  have  become  clamorous  enough  in  remon- 
strance, could  they  have  uttered  half  what  they  felt ;  they,  so  fluent, 
bowing  and  profuse  in  their  compliments — and  we,  scarcely  able  to 
command  expressions  enough  to  acknowledge  their  civilities,  and 
these  only  in  the  stammering  broken  accents  of  a  foreigner  with 
but  a  smattering  of  their  language, — it  must  be  confessed,  that  we 
were  in  our  own  eyes,  however  we  might  appear  in  theirs,  very 
small  men.  And,  if  I  mistake  not,  many  a  foreigjier  in  the  East, 
experiences  these  feelings.  They,  however,  with  at  least  a  show 
of  real  politeness,  took  no  advantage  of  our  embarrassing  circum- 
stances, but  seemed  to  study  to  render  themselves  agreeable  and 
us  comfortable. 

Our  entertainment,  prepared  and  served  in  Persian  style,  was 
rich  but  perfectly  plain.  The  liquors  could  not  have  offended  a 
temperance  agent  in  America.  The  principal  one  was  sherbet — 
water  sweetened  with  loaf  sugar  and  flavored  with  some  aro- 
matic. To  the  reproach  of  the  christian  name,  the  Muhammedans 
are  the  most  temperate  class  in  Persia,  the  Koran  forbidding  the 
use  of  wine.  At  present,  however,  as  has  been  remarked,  intem- 
perance is  making  terrible  inroads  among  the  followers  of  the  False 
Prophet,  as  their  reverence  for  their  religion  is  diminishing;  and 
to  a  great  extent,  by  foreign  influence.  It  has  not,  however,  yet 
acquired  respectability  enough  among  the  Muhammedans  to  lead 
them  to  hazard  the  introduction  of  wine  at  a  wedding.  Will  Christen- 
dom present  to  the  Persians,  as  they  relax  their  hold  on  the  system 
of  Muhammed,  no  better  substitute,  than  the  most  fearful  of  her 
vices  1 

The  fact  of  our  being  admitted  to  a  Muhammedan  wedding  is  so 
novel,  that  the  reader  will  indulge  rae,  in  going  a  little  more  into 
detail,  in  relation  to  our  entertainment.  Soon  after  we  were  seated, 
upon  the,  carpet,  giil-aub,  (rose-water,)  was  passed  around  in  small 
china  cruets  and  poured  into  the  hands  of  each  guest,  with  which 
he  moistened  and  scented  his  beard.  Next,  water  and  napkins 
were  carried  around,  that  each  might  wash  his  hands  in  preparation 
for  the  meal.  The  Persians,  like  the  Jews,  except  they  wash  oft, 
eat  not.  A  cotton  table-cloth,  four  feet  wide,  and  long  enough  to 
extend  aroimd  the  great  hall  on  all  the  sides  except  the  one  which 
is  entered  by  the  door,  was  spread  upon  the  carpet;  and  the  dishes, 
brought  in  upon  circular  copper  waiters,  perhaps  three  feet  in  di- 


*  The  dress  of  the  Mooll4h,  here  introduced,  imparts  a  fair  idea  of  the 
gracefulness  of  Persian  costume. 


\.  ilOM-lAH  .>!;  PVasiA)i  PKIE.ST, 


PILAV  MUSIC  AND  DANCING. 


269 


ameter,  were  placed  upon  the  cloth.  A  cluster  of  four  or  six  indi- 
viduals, as  the  case  may  be,  eat  in  common  froni  the  dishes  upon  a 
single  waiter.  The  large  wooden  trays,  or  waiters,  used  by  the 
Nestorians  and  the  Muhamraedan  peasants,  are  employed,  by  the 
higher  classes,  for  presenting  sweet-meats,  at  public  entertainments, 
but  not  for  the  dishes  at  a  regular  meal.  Those  used  by  the  latter, 
are  often  six  or  eight  feet  long,  elegantly  wrought  and  neatly  var- 
nished. First  came  the  sherbet,  in  cups  like  tea,  sprinkled  over 
with  a  delicious  mucilaginous  seed.  Next  was  brought  the  princi- 
pal meal,  the  main  article  of  which  was  pilav* — boiled  rice,  (next 
to  bread,  the  Persians' staff  of  life,) — served  up  with  baked  lamb 
and  fowls.  For  plates,  we  used  the  very  thin  large  bread  cakes  of 
the  country;  and  for  knives  and  forks,  our  fingers,  reclining  on  the 
left  elbow  and  using  only  the  right  hand.  At  the  close  of  the  meal, 
water  was  passed  around  and  we  again  washed  our  hands.  The 
conversation  had  all  the  while  been  lively,  but  dignified.  The  two 
high  MooUahs  now  retired,  from  a  sense  of  propriety,  as  it  after- 
wards appeared,  just  as  clergymen  in  America  are  accustomed  to 
retire,  before  recreations,  savoring  of  levity,  are  introduced. 

We  also  rose  to  retire  with  the  Muhammedan  ecclesiastics,  but 
the  ruler  of  the  feast  importuned  us  to  stay  a  little  longer,  and  to 
gratify  his  wishes  and  amuse  our  own  curiosity,  we  remained. 
"  Music  and  dancing"  were  soon  introduced.  The  musicians  were 
three  in  number,  two  using  tambourines,  and  one,  a  rude  violin. 
They  played  plaintive,  oriental  airs  and  accompanied  their  instru- 
ments with  their  voices,  in  shrill,  screeching  tones,  that  to  an  Amer- 
ican or  European  ear  sound  most  like  the  cries  of  distress.  There 
was  only  a  single  dancer,  but  he  a  very  nimble  one,  now  whirling 
upon  his  heels  with  the  velocity  of  a  top  and  anon  leaping  all  over 
the  room,  assuming  the  most  eccentric  attitudes  and  grimaces,  and 
occasionally  turning  a  summerset.  This  dancer  is  a  Lesgi,  by  na- 
tion, from  the  south-eastern  corner  of  the  Caucasus.  Numbers  of 
these  people  have  from  time  immemorial  strolled  over  these  regions 
in  the  capacity  of  minstrels.  The  music  and  dancing  continued 
about  half  an  hour,  at  the  close  of  which  we  retired.  The  main 
zest  of  an  American  wedding  was  wanting  in  this,  viz.  the  presence 

*  This  favorite  oriental  dish  is  difficult  to  describe,  and  yet  more  difficult 
to  imitate,  though  it  is  simply,  conked  rice.  The  rice  is  first  boiled,  but  in 
such  a  manner  that' the  kernels  are  preserved  v/hole,  though  fully  swollen. 
The  water  is  then  poured  off,  after  which  the  rice  is  further  cooked  with  a 
plenty  oF  butter  ;  and  if  roast  lamb  or  chickens  constitute  a  part  of  the  meal, 
these  are  laid  upon  the  rice,  which  adds  to  its  delicate  seasoning.  Onions, 
of  which  the  Persians  are  very  fond,  are  sometimes  boiled  or  fried,  and  laid 
also  upon  tlie  rice — the  latter  in  all  cases  forming  the  substratum  and  the  es- 
sential part  of  the  meal.  I  must  be  allowed  honestly  to  testify  my  attach- 
ment to  PilSv,  though  not  particularly  fond  of  rice  as  cooked  in  America. 
And  I  may  say  in  general,  that  it  is  not,  in  my  opinion,  merely  an  acquired 
taste,  which  renders  several  oriental  dishes  as  great  favorites  with  Europeans 
and  Americans  v/ho  reside  in  tlie  East,  as  tlie  dainties  of  their  native  coun- 
tries. 


270 


A  PALACE  PAINTINGS  TEA. 


of  the  married  pair.  Among  tlie  Persians,  the  nuptials  are  perform- 
ed privately  by  the  Moollahs,  at  the  niosks.  The  wedding  was 
grand  and  imposing,  however,  and  vividly  reminded  us  of  the  force 
of  the  parables  of  our  Saviour,  in  which  he  represents  the  kingdom 
of  heaven  under  the  figure  of  an  Eastern  noble  making  a  "  marriage 
for  his  son."  As  christian  missionaries,  too,  we  rejoiced  that  the 
Lord  gives  us  such  favor  in  the  eyes  of  these  Mohammedans,  as  to 
be  admitted  to  their  highest  circles  and  to  sit  socially  with  their  most 
venerated  Moollahs — pointing  us,  as  this  sign  of  tlie  times  does,  to 
the  decay  of  Muhammedan  prejudice,  and  the  approaching  period, 
when  the  followers  of  the  False  Prophet  will  rejoice  to  receive  from 
the  missionary's  lips  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation. 

April  12.  To-day  the  eldest  son  of  the  governor  sent  for  us  to 
visit  him  in  his  summer  palace — the  chdhdr-borj — -four  towers.  We 
accompanied  the  messenger,  and  a  walk  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
brought  us  within  the  walls  of  a  superb  specimen  of  oriental  magni- 
ficence. I  had  often  visited  the  residence  of  the  Prince  Royal  at 
Tabreez,  and  been  impressed  with  its  grandeur;  but  it  is  quite  in- 
ferior to  this  palace  which  was  reared  by  the  former  governor  of 
Oroomiah.  The  Khan  accompanied  us  into  each  room  and  to  the 
top  of  the  building,  with  the  utmost  familiarity.  Some  of  the  rooms 
have  their  interior  walls  almost  entirely  covered  with  gilded  mirrors, 
and  others,  with  portrait  and  fancy  paintings.  The  paintings  are 
gaudy,  but  not,  according'  to  our  ideas,  elegant  and  tasteful.  The 
fancy  representations  are  mostly  scenes  of  the  chase,  several  of  which 
present  Abbas  Meerza,  the  late  and  favorite  heir-apparent,  on  horse- 
back and  in  the  act  of  spearing  the  ferocious  wild  boar.  In  the  spa- 
cious court  enclosed  by  the  wings  of  the  palace,  are  artificial  foun- 
tains; and  the  whole  forms  a  good  specimen  of  a  Persian  paradise. 
From  the  top  of  one  of  the  overlooking  towers,  we  enjoyed  a  com- 
manding view  of  the  vast  plain  and  the  surrounding  mountains. 

When  we  had  surveyed  the  whole,  the  Khan  invited  us  to  go  to 
a  chamber  on  the  premises  and  drink  tea  with  him.  Tea  is  the 
customary  treat,  in  exchanging  calls,  among  the  higher  classes  in 
Persia.  Sometimes  both  coffee  and  tea  are  brought  forward;  and 
a  more  formal  attention  still  is  tea,  coffee  and  rose-water — the  lat- 
ter for  scenting  the  beard — but  neither  coffee,  nor  rose-water,  nor 
both  together  can  properly  supersede  tea.  where  much  respect  is 
intended.  Instead  of  a  decoction  from  the  China  plant,  however, 
hot  cinnamon  water  is  often  offered,  as  a  favorite  beverage;  but  it 
must  still  be  served  in  tea-cups  and  pass  under  the  denomination  of 
tea.  The  Persians  drink  their  tea  very  sweet.  Their  loaf-sugar  is 
imported  and  expensive  ;  but  the  nobleman  will  have  it,  be  the  price 
however  exorbitant.  To  the  enjoyment  of  this  grateful  beverage, 
he  feels  but  one  abatement,  and  that  is  the  mode  of  its  clarification, 
— abhorring,  as  the  Mohammedan  does,  the  use  of  blood,  or  con- 
tact with  it,  in  any  form.  In  company  with  a  European  acquain- 
tance, I  was  on  another  occasion,  visiting  this  same  young  Khan, 


CLARIFICATION  OF  SUGAR — 'BASTINADOING.  271 


who,  to  show  US  a  special  attention,  ordered  his  smi-vdr,  (Russian 
tea-urn,)  and  prepared  the  tea  himself  in  our  presence.  As  he  sat 
serving  the  party,  he  took  from  the  sugar-bowl  a  snow-white  lump 
and  ate  it,  complacently  shaking  his  head  and  repeating,  ccn  hike 
khob  est,  this  is  very  excellent.  "  Yes,"  sportively  replied  my  Eu- 
ropean companion,  "  but  it  may  be  hdrdnt,  unclean."  The  young 
Khan  is  too  much  of  a  soofee  to  be  much  troubled,  with  such  scru- 
ples ;  and  even  a  sober  Moollah  who  was  of  the  party,  while  his  look 
of  embarrassment  bespoke  his  regret  at  the  unwelcome  allusion,  still 
drank  his  sweetened  tea  with  much  satisfaction,  evidently  little  dis- 
posed to  canvass  the  process  by  which  the  sugar  had  been  clarified. 
This  subject  has,  at  different  limes,  however,  been  a  serious  matter 
in  Persia.  Two  or  three  years  ago,  a  Persian  who  had  been  sent  to 
St-  Petersburg,  to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  some  of  the  arts,  on  his 
return,  reported  that  the  unclean  infidel  Russians  clarify  the  sugar 
which  they  import  into  Persia,  not  only  with  blood,  as  had  before 
been  rumored,  but  even  with  the  bones  of  dead  animals  and  proba- 
bly of  dead  men !  Representations,  from  all  quarters,  were  soon 
poured  at  the  foot  of  the  throne,  until  his  Majesty,  to  quiet  his  hor- 
rified subjects  and  impress  them  with  his  orthodoxy,  issued  a  man- 
date that  no  more  loaf  sugar  should  be  used  in  his  kingdom  !  En- 
glish merchants,  in  Persia,  have  for  some  time  been  careful  to  im- 
port only  such  sugar  as  is  clarified  by  means  of  steam  instead  of 
blood,  or  at  least  that  which  purported  to  have  been  thus  prepared. 
This  timely  provision,  the  growing  laxness  of  the  age  and  the  Per- 
sians' sweet  teeth,  have  kept  the  sugar  market  open  and  even  in- 
creasing, notwithstanding  the  royal  mandate,  which  has,  at  the  same 
time,  doubtless  produced  quite  as  great  a  check  as  his  Majesty  ex- 
pected or  desired  it  to  effect. 

In  the  chamber  to  which  our  host  conducted  us,  was  another  son 
of  the  governor  and  several  of'his  associates,  with  whom  we  had  an 
agreeable  conversation.  Two  or  three  old  portable  chairs,  left  there 
by  travellers,  were  arranged  for  our  convenience.  The  eldest  son 
of  the  governor  will,  doubtless,  succeed  his  father  in  the  government 
of  this  province.  Ordinary  affairs  are  now  entrusted  to  liim.  While 
we  sat  drinking  tea,  we  witnessed  an  instance  of  his  administration. 
A  Mahammedan  culprit  was  brought  up  before  the  window  and  bas- 
tinadoed. Our  host  taxed  himself  to  the  utmost,  to  render  our 
whole  entertainment  agreeable ;  but  the  unexpected  sight  of  this 
horrid  species  of  punishment  quite  sickened  our  hearts,  and  made 
us  sensible  that  we  dwell  in  a  dark  and  barbarous  land.  Had  the 
Khan  suspected  that  the  exhibition  would  be  disagreeable  to  us,  he 
would  by  no  means  have  suffered  it  to  take  place  in  our  presence. 
So  accustomed  are  Persian  rulers  to  such  scenes,  that  they  think  no 
more  of  them  than  of  smoking  their  kaleeoons. 

In  the  Persian  method  of  bastinadoing,  the  ancles  of  the  culprit 
are  bound  to  a  pole,  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  long.  He  is  then  thrown 
down  upon  his  back  on  a  pavement  and  the  pole  is  raised  and  sup- 


272 


MAR  Gabriel's  fondness  for  hunting. 


ported  by  men  at  the  two  ends.  The  culprit  lies  thus  entirely  help- 
less, however  much  he  may  struggle ;  and  his  legs  extending  up- 
ward, the  bottoms  of  his  bare  feet  present  a  fair  surface  for  the  ap- 
plication of  the  rod.  An  officer  brought  forward  a  large  bundle  of 
rods — perhaps  a  hundred  in  number,  six  or  eight  feet  long — from  a 
store-house  of  the  magistrate,  in  which  they  are  always  kept  ready. 
Three  or  four  other  officers  took  each  his  rod  and  applied  themselves 
to  the  task,  renewing  their  rods  from  the  bundle  as  fast  as  those 
used  were  worn  up.  The  Khan  gave  orders  to  lohip  hard,  and  his 
orders  were  faithfully  executed,  amid  the  wailings  of  the  culprit  and 
the  reiterated  injunction  of  the  whole  party  of  young  nobles — kaim 
voor — kaim  voor,  whip  hard — whip  hard.  As  soon  as  I  had  suffi- 
ciently recovered  from  the  shock  of  horror  at  the  scene  to  speak 
composedly,  I  inquired  what  was  the  crime,  and  was  told  that  the 
culprit  had  been  fighting.  He  doubtless  deserved  punishment ;  but 
this  frightful  method  of  inflicting  it,  often  makes  us  sigh  for  the 
quiet  land  of  our  fathers — a  land  of  wholesome  laws  and  efficient, 
but  humane  administration. 

While  we  sat  in  the  chamber  with  these  young  nobles — "  this," 
said  they;  "  would  be  a  fine  room  in  which  for  us  to  take  English 
lessons,'^ — thus  indirectly  inviting  us  to  instruct  them  in  our  lan- 
guage. "  Beyly,"  (yes,)  was  the  only  reply  we  could  make  to  them. 
The  task  of  teaching  them  would  be  a  very  agreeable  and  hopeful 
one,  but  our  multiplied  label's  forbid  us  to  undertake  it. 

April  14.  I  rode  fifteen  miles  to  Ardishai,  according  to  previous 
appointment,  to  visit  Mar  Gabriel.  I  embrace  the  opportunity,  dur- 
ing our  two  weeks'  vacation,  to  visit  distant  villages,  as  1  find  it 
very  difficult  to  leave  home,  in  the  terra  time  of  our  school.  Mar 
Gabriel  is  a  generous  and  noble,  but  still  wild  young  man.  His 
confinement,  when  he  commenced  learning  English  with  ns,  soon 
proved  intolerable  to  his  restless  spirit.  After  a  few  weeks  of  quite 
successful  study,  he  felt  constrained  to  relinquish  the  undertaking 
and  return  to  his  favorite  fishing  and  hunting.  We  are  on  the  most 
friendly  terms  with  him;  but  I  fear  we  shall  not  soon  so  far  tame 
him,  as  to  be  able  to  give  him  a  thorough  education  or  make  him  a 
sober  man.  Ardishai  is  quite  near  the  lake ;  and  to-day,  the  bishop 
entertained  us  with  a  most  romantic  feat  in  it,  in  his  favorite  employ- 
ment of  sporting.  As  he  rode  down  to  the  shore,  a  flock  of  very 
large  birds  rose  from  the  water  and  flew  away,  A  solitary  one  re- 
mained in  the  lake;  and  the  bishop  observing  it,  applied  the  goad 
to  his  fleet  horse  and  galloped  into  the  water  with  such  speed  and 
power,  as  to  open  a  channel,  heave  up  walls  of  waves  on  either  hand 
and  agitate  the  lake  to  a  considerable  distance  around  him.  By 
the  time  be  approached  the  fowl,  the  water  had  become  so  deep  as 
to  be  almost  on  a  level  with  his  horse's  back.  But  without  the 
least  apparent  embarrassment,  he  dismounted  in  a  moment,  caught 
the  bird  in  his  arms,  sprang  again  upon  his  horse  and  brought  his 
game  to  the  shore.    The  fowl  must  have  been  entangled  in  weeds 


MAR   ixAil  HI  t:  L  .  A.'  Ni:  STOBIA'N  TllSHOP. 


AC(iUISITION  OF  ENGLISH  MAR  JOSEPH.  273 


— or  possibly  taken  in  snares  which  are  sometimes  set  in  the  water 
for  that  purpose.  The  beholders,  quite  engrossed  with  s'lch  a  feat 
of  agility  in  the  bishop,  had  thought  little  of  the  bird  ;  hut  when  it 
was  presented  on  the  shore,  it  proved,  to  us  at  least,  to  be  a  wonder- 
ful curiosity.  It  was  the  flamingo.*  The  bishop  was  happy  to 
present  to  us  the  splendid  prize  which  he  had  taken.  We  brought 
it  home  alive,  but  removed  from  its  native  element — the  salt-water 
— it  soon  died.  The  Persians  say  that  it  eats  nothing  but  salt  and 
mud.    Its  flesh  is  regarded  by  the  natives  as  quite  delicious. 

Mar  Gabriel,  we  still  hope,  may  become  an  important  auxiliary 
in  our  missionary  work.  The  most  unfavorable  trait  in  his  charac- 
ter is,  that  he  is  "  given  to  much  wine."  He  appears  to  be  very 
friendly  to  our  object.  Were  we  to  request  him  to  aid  us  in  estab- 
lishing schools,  in  his  diocese,  he  would  not  probably  enter  with 
much  interest  personally  into  the  matter;  but  out  of  regard  to  us  he 
might  issue  orders  that  his  priests  should  all  engage  at  once  in  the 
undertaking.  He  is  strictly  sui  generis  among  the  bishops.  Were 
we,  instead  of  requesting  him  to  aid  us  in  establishing  schools,  to 
commission  him  to  take  for  us  a  thousand  ducks  from  the  lake,  or 
half  that  number  of  hyaenas  from  the  mountains,  he  would  regard 
the  commission  as  an  honorable  and  no  less  agreeable  one, — would 
mount  his  horse  and  shoulder  his  musket  and  hardly  give  himself 
time  to  sleep  till  so  important  a  work  were  accomplished.  Devoted 
as  he  is  to  sporting,  he,  however,  needs  but  the  transforming  power 
of  divine  grace,  to  make  him  "  a  good  soldier  of  Jesus  Christ." 

This  youthful  bishop,  though  unable  long  to  confine  himself  over 
his  books,  has,  ever  since  the  trial,  attached  very  high  importance 
to  the  acquisitions  which  he  made,  during  the  two  or  three  weeks 
that  he  spent  with  us.  Indeed,  he  conceives  his  knowledge  of  En- 
glish to  be  already  very  considerable,  having  become  able  to  pro- 
nounce most  of  the  words  in  the  first  chapter  of  Matthew.  To  the 
inquiry  of  the  Patriarch's  brother,  on  one  occasion,  whether  the 
English  is  a  difficult  language,  "  O  no,"  he  promptly  replied,  "  I  ac- 
quired it  in  less  than  three  weeks."  And  almost  as  often  as  any  of 
the  missionaries  visit  him, — particularly  the  younger  members  of 
the  mission,  soon  after  their  arrival  in  the  country, — he  produces 
his  spelling-book  of  his  own  accord,  and  to  impress  them  with  his 
acquisitions  as  gravely  as  magnifically  recites  his  lesson,  selecting 
always  the  second  page,  and  rapidly  going  through ;  ba — be — bi — 
bo — etc.,  affording  one  of  the  most  comical  exhibitions  that  can  well 
be  conceived. 

April  6.  In  company  with  Mr.  Hoernle,  I  rode  to  the  village  of 
Ada,  sixteen  miles  from  the  city,  to  visit  Mar  Joseph.  This  bishop 
is  more  than  fifty  years  old,  but  has  all  the  vigor  and  buoyancy  of  a 
young  man.  His  vivacity  differs,  however,  from  that  of  Mar  Ga- 
briel, "  the  mighty  hunter."    While  he  is  active  and  social— often 


*  See  the  description  in  the  note  on  page  7. 
35 


274 


ENTERTAINMENT  PLAIN  OF  OROOMIAH. 


playful  and  very  shrewd,  he  is  still  sufficiently  dignified.  He  has 
for  some  time  resided  with  us,  but  was  now  nt  home  keeping  the 
festival  of  Easter.  When  we  arrived,  he  was  on  the  point,  as  he 
informed  us,  of  calling  some  of  his  friends  together,  to  celebrate  the 
birth  of  our  son — now  two  days  old — intelligence  of  which  liad  just 
reached  him.  The  birth  of  a  son,  in  Persia,  is  always  the  occasion 
of  almost  immoderate  joy  to  the  friends  and  acquaintances  of  its 
parents,  while  the  birth  of  a  daughter  fills  the  same  circle  with  sor- 
row and  mortification  ;  so  little  is  the  worth  and  influence  of  females 
appreciated,  in  Muhammedan  countries. 

The  bishop  welcomed  us  very  cordially  and  soon  commenced  pre- 
paring us  a  dinner  with  his  own  hands.  Having  resided  for  some 
time  ill  our  families,  he  was  desirous  to  have  a  meal  more  nearly 
resembling  ours  than  his  servants  could  prepare.  In  his  little  chest, 
he  had  carefully  laid  up  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  and  tea  and  two 
new  tea-cups  and  saucers,  which  he  had  purchased  the  week  pre- 
vious, in  anticipation  of  our  visit.  We  wondered  at  this,  inasmuch 
as  we  had  never  before  been  treated  to  tea,  among  the  Nestorians — 
the  Muhammedans  only  being  able  to  furnish  that  expensive  bever- 
age. Mar  Joseph,  it  seemed,  would  have  something  very  extraor- 
dinary on  the  occasion.  It  was  quite  amusing  to  witness  his  pre- 
paration of  the  tea.  He  brought  forward  the  tea,  sugar  and  cold 
water  and  would  have  poured  them  all  into  one  vessel  and  boiled 
them  together,  had  we  not  instructed  him  otherwise.  By  a  little  of 
our  assistance,  however,  he  succeeded  in  making  ready  a  good  cup 
of  tea.  A  portion  of  his  sugar  being  left,  the  bishop  next  undertook 
to  prepare  for  us  a  custard.  In  this  experiment,  he  commenced  in 
much  the  same  way  as  in  the  preparation  of  the  tea ;  but  by  our 
assistance,  he  again  succeeded  very  well.  So  anxious  was  the  good 
bishop  that  we  should  be  comfortably  entertained,  that  he  was  on  his 
feet  and  in  profuse  perspiration,  notwithstanding  our  remonstrances, 
two-thirds  of  the  day.  Many  Nestorians  of  the  village  called  at  the 
bishop's  to  see  us,  and  our  visit  was  very  gratifying.  The  promi- 
nent topic  of  conversation  was  the  opening  of  a  school  in  their  village, 
which  they  all  appeared  to  desire. 

May  6.  Mr.  Merrick  arrived  from  Tabreez,  in  company  with 
one  of  the  German  brethren.  After  spending  a  few  days  with  us, 
they  are  to  start  on  a  tour  to  Isfahan. 

May  7.  I  baptized  our  infant  son,  with  the  name  of  William 
Riach,  the  first  being  the  name  of  two  grandfathers  and  three  un- 
cles, and  the  last,  a  name  rendered  very  dear  to  us  by  circumstances 
to  which  I  have  alluded. 

May  9.  Rode  out  with  our  missionary  brethren  from  Tabreez, 
to  survey  the  plain.  We  happened  to  take  a  road  which  I  had 
never  before  travelled,  and  were  soon  agreeably  surprised  to  find 
ourselves  surrounded  by  some  of  the  richest  and  most  enchanting 
views  that  we  had  ever  seen,  even  on  the  plain  of  Oroomiah.  Af- 
ter riding  about  a  mile  from  the  city,  under  an  almost  continuous 


MOUNDS  OF  THE  FIRE-WORSHIPPERS. 


275 


arbor  of  willows,  two  rows  of  which,  on  each  side  of  the  road  with 
a  stream  of  water  running  between  them,  gracefully  inleriock  their 
branches  over  the  traveller's  head,  we  reached  a  mound,  at  least 
seventy  feet  high,  that  rises  abruptly  from  the  plain.  We  ascended 
it  and  from  its  top  enjoyed  a  perfect  and  most  delightful  view  of 
the  whole  district, — of  the  vast  plain  with  its  hundreds  of  villages — 
the  placid  lake  and  the  towering  snow-capped  mountains.  It  seem- 
ed that  a  directing  Hand  had  conducted  our  steps — for  we  knew 
not  in  what  direction  we  should  ride  when  we  left  the  city — to  the 
very  spot  from  which  we  miglit  enjoy  the  most  perfect  survey  of  this 
charming  country.  This  high  mound  is  evidently  artificial.  Its 
sides  have  of  late  been  to  some  extent  excavated,  for  the  purpose  of 
procuring  large  stone  which  seem  to  be  imbedded  in  ancient  walls. 
The  tradition  of  all  classes,  at  Oroomiah,  is,  that  this  mound  occu- 
pies a  site  consecrated  by  the  fire-worshippers,  and  that  during  the 
period  of  its  use,  the  mound  gradually  accumulated  from  the  ashes 
of  their  perpetual  fires.  There  are  several-other  mounds  on  the  plain, 
which  are  the  reputed  relics  of  the  fire-worshippers.  And  other  sites, 
in  the  city  and  vicinity,  are  still  held  sacred,  some  by  Muhammedans 
and  others  by  the  Nestorians.  One  mound  similar  to  that  which  I 
have  described,  is  revered  by  the  native  Christians.  Its  interior  is 
composed  of  huge  piles  of  stones  ;  and  the  following  is  their  account 
of  it.  On  that  spot,  say  they.  Mar  Gewergis,  (St.  George,)  was 
murdered  by  the  fire-worshippers;  and  the  Lord,  as  a  punishment, 
caused  so  profuse  a  shower  of  stones  to  fall  from  heaven  as  com- 
pletely to  entomb  the  village  and  rear  this  lasting  monument  to  the 
memory  of  the  martyr  saint.  A  few  miles  west  of  the  city,  just  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains,  is  a  village  in  which  the  Nestorians  say 
that  the  apostle  Thomas  lay  sick,  several  weeks,  when  he  first  came 
from  Jerusalem  to. preach  the  gospel  in  these  regions.  And  on  the 
eastern  part  of  the  plain,  is  a  village  which  they  hold  that  the  same 
apostle  made  his  particular  home,  while  he  remained  in  this  country. 
Near  this  village  is  an  ancient  church  denominated,  St.  Thomas. 
Both  Nestorians  and  Muhammedans  cherish  many  superstitions  in 
connection  with  their  hallowed  localities.  They  generally  conceive 
the  idea,  that  such  places  possess  a  power  to  work  miraculous  cures 
and  they  are  more  or  less  resorted  to  for  this  purpose.  I  have  met 
with  few,  however,  who  profess  actually  to  have  been  thus  cured. 

So  numerous  and  childish  are  the  traditions  among  all  classes  in 
the  East,  that  I  have  learned  to  place  little  reliance  upon  the  most 
cherished  of  them,  the  council  of  Treat  investing  tradition  with 
such  authority  notwithstanding.  The  tomb  of  the  prophet  Daniel, 
for  instance,  is  claimed  to  be  in  some  half  a  dozen  different  places 
in  northern  Persia  and  Georgia,  widely  distant  from  each  other,  and 
I  know  not  in  how  many  places  elsewhere.  The  American  who  has 
been  pointed  to  Plymouth  rock,  Bunker  hill,  or  Mt.  Vernon,  and 
yielded  to  the  hallowed  impressions  of  certainty,  must  beware  how 
he  carries  the  same  reverential  feelings  into  the  East,  among  nations 
as  superstitious,  fanciful  and  false  as  they  are  ancient. 


276      muhder  of  a  jew — letter  of  mar  shtmon. 


May  20.  Yesterday  an  unoffending  Jew  was  publicly  beheaded 
and  burned  in  tiiis  city.  The  enraged  Muhamnieduus  had,  fur  two  or 
three  days,  thronged  the  governor's  palace  by  tlu)usands,  demanding 
that  the  whole  Jewish  population  oniie  city  should  be  put  to  death  to 
a  man.  And  to  appease  the  mob,  the  governor  delivered  up  this  in- 
dividual. He  was  arraigned  under  the  accusation  of  having  mur- 
dered a  Muhanimedan  ciuld.  The  Muhaminedans,  like  the  super- 
stitious Papists,  cherish  the  belief,  {or  profess  to  cherish  it,)  that  the 
Jews  possess  an  instinctive  thirst  for  human  blood,  as  well  as  seek 
human  victims  for  an  annual  sacrifice.  In  this  instance,  a  Muhatn- 
medan  infant  was  found  dead,  before  the  door  of  a  Jew.  The  pro- 
bability is  that  the  child  died  a  natural  death  and  was  thus  exposed 
by  interested  persons,  to  rouae  public  indignation  against  the  poor 
Jews  ;  and  so  strong  is  the  hatred  of  the  Muhammedans  towards  the 
descendants  of  Israel,  that  the  stratagem  proved  entirely  successful, 
as  is  often  the  case  in  Muhammedan  countries.  Thus  literally  is 
the  fearful  imprecation  of  the  crucifiers  of  our  Lord — "his  blood  be 
on  us  and  our  children,"  fulfilled  in  their  remote  unbelieving  poster- 
ity. The  hostility  cherished  by  Muhammedans  towards  the  Jews 
is  inconceivably  more  bitter  than  their  hatred  to  Christians.  The 
determined  aversion  Avhich  the  Jews  early  manifested  to  the  religion 
of  the  impostor  is  still  remembered  and  strongly  resented  by  his 
followers. 

May  26.  I  received  a  letter  from  the  Patriarch,  Mar  Shimon,  in 
reply  to  the  one  which  I  addressed  to  him  some  time  ago.  The  fol- 
lowing is  a  literal  translation  : 

"From  the  Patriarchal  seat,  accept  the  prayers  and  blessing  of 
Mar  Shimon,  head  of  the  church  and  Patriarch  of  the  East. 

Your  most  welcome  salutations  have  been  communicated  to  us, 
ye  faithful,  ye  blessed,  ye  true  Christians,  ye  wise,  ye  exalted  ones, 
ye  orthodox,  ye  holy,  ye  just,  Mr.  Perkins — Mr.  Grant — lady  Char- 
lotte and  lady  Judith.  Ye  children  of  Aaron,  ye  companions  of  the 
disciples  ;  we  love  you  as  apostles  of  our  Lord,  and  we  pray  the  Lord, 
that  from  his  ocean  of  mercy,  he  may  grant  you  peace,  may  remove 
from  you  sorrow  and  grant  you  happiness  and  boundless  joy,  every 
week,  every  day  and  every  hour.  May  you  be  beloved  and  joyous, 
among  the  sons  of  the  faithful,  forever,  Amen  and  Amen. 

Your  spiritual  salutations  we  have  received,  and  now  we  would 
inquire  for  your  welfare,  and  would  assure  you  that  your  highest 
prosperity  is  devoutly  desired  by  us, — Amen. 

In  the  next  place,  we  beseech  of  you  a  watch,  a  very  excellent 
and  beautiful  one,  tlie  like  of  which  shall  not  exist, — Amen. 

And  furthermore,  we  request  you  to  communicate  to  us  the  time 
of  your  coming  here,  that  we  may  know  it,  that  the  Koords,  those 
children  of  wild  asses,  may  not  come  in  your  way  to  do  evil. 
When  ws  shall  hear  of  your  coming  we  will  send  men  to  meet  you, 
that  they  may  bring  you  to  ua  in  safety, — Amen. 


ORIGIN  OF  MUHAMMEDISM  PAPAL  NESTORIANS.  277 


Much  love  and  greeting  from  all  the  priests,  from  all  the  deacons, 
from  all  the  grent  ones,  from  the  brothers  of  M;\r  Shimon  and  all 
the  members  of  the  household,  great  and  small.  Continue  prosper- 
ous and  firm  in  the  word  of  our  Lord,  now  and  forever, — Amen." 

May  27.  In  conversation  with  a  bishop  and  priest  who  are  as- 
sisting n)e  in  translation,  they  stated  the  theory  embraced  by  the 
Nestorians,  respecting  the  origin  of  the  Muhanjmedan  system. 
"Not  Mahammed  himself,"  said  they,  "but  his  tutor,  a  learned 
Nestorian,  by  the  name  of  Sergis,  (Sergius,)  was  the  real  author  of 
the  Koran."  "  This  learned  Nestorian,"  they  continued,  "  was  not 
a  designing  impostor,  but  a  very  mistaken  Christian ;  who,  in  his 
zeal  to  make  converts,  turned  away  from  preaching  the  pure  gospel, 
and  attempted  to  lure  men  by  holding  out  to  their  imaginations  tlie 
enticements  of  a  sensual  paradise."  Whether  or  not  Muhammed 
received  the  assistance  here  alleged,  in  his  composition  of  the  Ko- 
ran, the  world  is  not  wanting  in  illustrations  of  the  terrible  effects 
of  setting  aside  the  discriminating  traits  of  the  gospel  to  render  it 
more  congenial  to  the  natural  inclinations  of  men,  than  the  form  in 
which  its  author  has  revealed  it.  And  the  oriental  churches  from 
the  fourth  century— and  even  much  earlier — to  the  present  time, 
have  furnished  a  fruitful  soil  of  follies,  absurdities  and  corruptions, 
on  which  Muhammedism  might  easily  take  root  and  extend.  How 
different  from  the  purity  and  simplicity  of  apostolic  times  ! 

July  3.  A  Papal  Nestorian  called  at  my  study,  and  requested 
me  to  receive  his  brother  into  our  school.  The  bishops  remonstrat- 
ed, because  the  boy  belongs  to  a  Catholic  family;  but  the  Catholic 
still  urged  his  petition,  saying  that  his  brother  was  now  only  a  child, 
and  that  he  had  himself  no  wish  to  have  him  become  a  Catholic. 
The  Papal  Nestorians  of  this  province  are  few  in  number;  and 
these  few,  and  indeed  all  the  Catholics  of  these  regions,  are  very 
different  from  those  in  the  Levant,  in  Europe  and  in  America. 
Coming  but  remotely  under  the  wily  Jesuit  influence  that  emanates 
from  the  seat  of  the  Pope,  their  characters  are  but  little  affected 
by  it.  Many  apply  to  me  for  Bibles.  The  strongest  motive  that 
operates  in  their  case,  to  incline  them  to  maintain  even  a  nominal 
adherence  to  Rome,  is  the  idea  industriously  circulated  by  Jesuits 
who  have  formerly  visited  these  regions,  that  all  Christians  of  the 
West  are  Papists.  "You  Nestorians,"  the  Jesuits  have  told  them, 
"  are  the  only  e.xception  in  the  whole  world,  except  the  degraded 
Armenians,  who  are  also  now  turning;  you  are  few,  poor  and  de- 
spised, and  will  remain  so,  until  you  raise  yourselves  to  notice  and 
respectability  by  becoming  allied  to  *  his  holiness'  the  Pope,  the 
vicar  of  Christ,  the  successor  of  St.  Peter,  the  head  of  the  church 
and  of  the  world."  No  nation  stands  so  high,  in  the  general  esti- 
mation in  the  East,  as  the  Englix/i.  Nothing  therefore  was  more 
common  than  for  the  emissaries  of  Rome,  who  formerly  visited 
these  regions,  to  call  themselves  Englishmen,  and  declare  the  whole 
English  nation  to  be  Papists. 


278 


PROSELYTING  ZEAL  OF  THE  PAPISTS. 


The  Nestorians  often  relate  the  particulars  of  their  past  conflicts 
with  Papists, — particularly  the  career  of  the  last  one  who  has  visited 
them  on  this  side  of  the  Koordish  mountains.  His  first  attempt — 
a  daring  one — was  to  bribe  the  Nestorian  Patriarch.  He  went 
directly  to  his  residence,  in  the  Koordish  mountains,  and  as  a  fully 
empowered  legate,  promised  him,  as  I  have  elsewhere  stated,  four 
thousand  tomans,  ($10,000,)  on  condition  that  he  would  declare 
himself  and  his  people  subjects  of  the  Pope.  Finding  mercenary 
motives  ineffectual  to  accoiTiplish  his  object,  the  Jesuit  next  ap- 
pealed to  the  ambition  of  the  Patriarch,  lelHng  him  that  should  he 
become  allied  to  Rome,  he  would  be  exalted  to  be  the  Pope's  lieu- 
tenant in  all  the  East.  "Tell  your  master,"  said  the  Patriarch, 
"that  I  shall  never  become  a  Catholic;  and  should  you  even  in- 
duce my  whole  people,  to  the  last  man,  to  do  so,  I  would  sooner 
become  a  Dervish,  or  a  Koordish  Moollah,  than  degrade  myself  by 
alliance  with  the  Pope." 

Finding  the  Patriarch  inflexible,  the  Romish  emissary  next  tried 
his  artifices  on  the  people  of  this  province.  A  prince,  a  brother  of 
Abbas  Meerza,  was  then  governor  of  Oroomiah,  and  had  in  his 
employ  an  old  French  lady  in  the  capacity  of  an  instructress  of 
European  languages.  This  old  lady  had  acquired  a  measure  of 
influence  with  her  royal  pupil,  and  the  Jesuit  found  it  very  conve- 
nient to  make  her  his  coadjutor.  When  therefore  tlie  Nestorians 
spurned  the  rites  of  Rome  as  urged  upon  them  by  the  Papal  legate, 
the  old  lady,  at  his  instigation,  was  accustomed  to  petition  the 
prince  to  coerce  them  to  submit  to  the  Jesuit's  dictation.  This 
system  was  pursued,  until  the  Nestorians  were  on  the  point  of  rising 
in  determined  resistance,  and  the  prince  was  thus  deterred  from 
his  oppression. 

In  some  instances,  the  Papal  emissary  entered  Nestorian  churches, 
declared  them  the  property  of  the  Pope,  and  hung  their  walls  with 
images  and  pictures,  which  the  Nestorians  as  often  indignantly  tore 
down  and  destroyed.  In  one  case,  the  Jesuit  paid  a  yet  dearer 
price  for  his  temerity  than  the  loss  of  his  "^0^/5."  Entering  a 
church  in  G6og-tapa,  he  commenced  adorning  it  with  Romish  ta- 
pestry, when  Mar  Elias,  the  venerable  Nestorian  bishop  resident  in 
that  village,  came  into  his  church  and  ordered  the  intruder  to  de- 
sist. The  Jesuit  told  the  bishop  that  the  church  was  not  his,  but 
the  Pope's,  and  in  the  name  of  "  his  holiness,"  commanded  Mar 
Elias  to  go  out.  The  worthy  Nestorian  prelate,  though  aware  that 
a  bishop  must  be  "no  striker,"  yet  regarding  the  emergency  such 
as  to  justify  an  exception,  took  the  Jesuit  in  hand,  and  gave  him 
such  a  corporeal  castigation,  that  he  was  glad  to  escape  with 
broken  images  and  torn  pictures;  and  this  was  the  last  attempt  to 
establish  the  reign  of  Popery  at  Oroomiah  before  our  arrival.  Since 
that  period,  similar  efforts  have  been  renewed,  but  hitherto  with  aa 
little  success,  as  we  shall  have  occasion  to  notice,  in  subsequent 
chapters. 


BARANDOOZ  OPPRESSION. 


279 


July  8.  In  company  with  priest  Abrahann,  I  rode  fifteen  miles 
to  a  village  in  the  valley  of  Barandooz,  in  pursuit  of  MSS.  to  aid  us 
in  translation.  A  low  ridge  runs  down  from  (he  great  mountain 
range,  several  miles,  and  partly  shuts  out  tiie  district  of  Barandooz 
from  the  main  part  of  the  plain  of  Orooniiah.  The  first  five  or  six 
miles  of  our  ride  led  us  through  delightful  groves,  meadows,  wheat- 
fields,  vineyards  and  gardens.  We  then  crossed  the  ridge  and  en- 
tered Barandooz.  It  is  a  very  fertile  valley,  containing  about 
twenty  villages,  and  is  watered  by  the  largest  river — perhaps  six 
rods  wide — in  the  province.  On  reaching  the  village  of  which  we 
were  in  search,  we  were  conducted  to  the  house  of  its  priest.  We 
were  invited  into  his  best  room,  after  standing  some  time  in  the 
hot  sun,  for  it  to  be  swept  and  put  in  order.  At  one  end,  were 
tliree  young  calves,  tied  to  the  wall ;  and  at  the  other  end  was 
spread  a  piece  of  an  old  carpet,  on  which  we  were  invited  to  sit. 
I  conversed  some  time  with  the  priest  respecting  Bibles  and  schools. 
He  appeared  interested.  "In  former  times,"  said  he,  "this  village 
was  the  residence  of  successive  christian  bishops;  but  now  we  are 
sorely  oppressed,  and  everything  is  in  ruins.  We  have  few  books 
and  no  schools  in  the  district."  He  engaged  to  send  his  son  to  our 
school,  to  whom  I  promised  to  give  a  copy  of  the  Syriac  gospels, 
for  which  the  priest  seemed  thankful.  A  dinner  of  bread  and  boiled 
eggs  was  spread  before  us,  of  which  we  gratefully  partook,  and  then 
started  on  our  return,  charmed  with  the  beauties  of  the  country. 

The  numerous  thick  groves  of  willows  and  poplars,  that  grow  on 
the  water-courses,  in  this  province,  cast  a  rich  green  hue  over  the 
plain,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  which  imparts  almost  a  fairy  aspect 
to  the  land,  lake  and  sky,  and  seems  fully  to  justify  the  poetic  line 
of  Watts  in  his  version  of  the  seventy-second  Psalm — "There  Per- 
sia glorious  to  behold."  The  almost  innumerable  fields  of  the  finest 
wheat,  and  the  orchards,  vineyards  and  gardens  also  impress  one, 
with  the  idea  of  boundless  and  universal  plenty,  in  every  earthly  en- 
joyment. And  such  would  actually  be  the  case,  were  the  gos- 
pel to  rule  here  and  regulate  society.  But  our  hearts  are  often  for- 
bidden to  enjoy  this  attractive  drapery  of  nature  and  these  abound- 
ing gifts  of  Providence,  by  a  recollection  of  the  wickedness  and  wo 
that  reign  in  the  midst  of  them.  One  class  of  the  population  of  this 
fine  country  revel  in  indulgence,  and  the  rest  are  ground  down  to 
the  dust  to  sustain  them.  In  the  city  of  Oroomiah  are  about  one 
hundred  Khans — nobles  of  the  highest  rank — besides  bess  almost 
innumerable.  Each  of  these  nobles  has  his  retinue  of  ten — twenty 
— fifty — seventy-five,  or  more  servants;  and  a  corresponding  num- 
ber of  the  villages  of  the  peasantry  are  under  contribution  to  sustain 
the  establishment.  And  for  the  hundreds  of  nobles  who  reside  in 
the  city,  the  hundreds  of  villages  of  the  surrounding  country  are  all 
thus  borne  down  under  intolerable,  systematic  servitude,  to  say  noth- 
ing of  the  oppressive  extortions  which  the  particular  villages  suffer 
from  their  respective  landlords. 


280 


SrSTEM  OF  TAXATION  PUBLIC  REVENUE. 


Once  a  year,  and  sometimes  a  whole  year  in  anticipation,  come 
the  king's  tax-gatherers;  and  the  poor  peasants  must  often  then 
turn  out  the  bread  of  their  families  or  tlieir  clothing,  to  meet  the 
royal  demand — or  rather,  the  far  more  exorbitant  exactions  of  his 
rapacious  deputies  and  constables.  The  regular  annual  taxation  of 
the  native  Christians  is  the  following.  The  kliarnj,  capitation-tax, 
amounting  to  five  saJdb  kordns,  ($1,25).  Vineyards,  gardens  and 
cotton-fields  are  taxed  twelve  and  a  half  shdhics  (fifteen  cents)  for 
each  tdnndp,  a  square  of  about  sixty  feet.  A  fifth  part  of  the  wheat 
and  of  all  other  grains,  belongs  to  government.  A  khdlwdr,  (which 
is  about  six  hundred  pounds,)  of  s^rm^',  at  the  threshing-floors,  pays 
two  and  a  half  sahib  kordns — about  sixty  cents.  A  female  buffalo 
is  taxed  sixty  cents;  a  cow,  thirty-three  cents;  and  a  sheep,  ten 
cents.  The  males  of  cattle  that  labor  are  not  subject  to  taxation, 
the  exemption  being  intended  to  encourage  their  increase  and  aug- 
ment the  productions  of  the  soil. 

The  Muhammedan  peasantry  are  nominally  subject  to  the  same 
amount  of  annual  taxation  as  the  native  Christians,  except  the  cap- 
itation-tax, which  is  peculiar  to  the  latter,  and  is  regarded  as  the 
price  of  their  privilege  of  professing  Christianity.  The  Christians, 
however,  suffer  much  more  from  wanton  extortion,  than  the  Mu- 
hammedans.  The  legal  taxation  by  the  government  would  be  found 
quite  tolerable  to  both  classes,  were  it  not  for  the  numberless  and 
nameless  illegal  exactions  in  addition,  which  the  peasantry  suffer 
from  the  collectors  and  inferior  officers ;  and  the  yet  heavier  bur- 
den that  bears  constantly  upon  them,  in  the  habitual  extortions  of 
their  oppressive  landlords.  Custom  allows  to  these  landlords  a  va- 
riety of  annual  contributions,  from  their  serfs.  From  each  house- 
hold, they  are  entitled  to  five  days  of  gratuitous  labor,  two  loads  of 
dried  manure  moulded  into  cakes  for  fuel,  twenty  eggs  and  two 
fowls.  But  these  contributions  are  all  wantonly  increased  to  almost 
any  extent,  at  the  will  of  the  oppressor,  and  the  ability  of  the  suf- 
ferer. 

1  may  not  find  it  more  convenient  elsewhere  than  here,  to  speak 
somewhat  at  length  of  the  sources  of  the  public  revenue  in  Persia, 
and  this  I  can  do  in  the  shortest  form,  by  quoting  from  two  or  three 
paragraphs*  of  Malcolm  on  the  subject.  I  may  premise  that  the 
soil,  in  that  country,  is  owned  chiefly  by  the  hereditary  nobility  and 
the  clergy.  A  portion  of  it,  perhaps  a  fifth,  is  the  property  of  the 
crown,  (khdlisd,)  being  also  farmed  by  the  higher  classes.  Very  little 
is  possessed  by  the  tillers,  who,  as  I  have  before  stated,  sustain  to 
the  owners  the  relation  of  serfs  to  lords.  '  The  fixed  revenue,'  says 
Malcolm,  '  is  chiefly  derived  from  government  lands,  from  taxes  and 
imposts  on  landed  property,  and  on  every  species  of  goods  and  mer- 
chandize. Crown  lauds  are  cultivated  by  the  peasantry  on  terms 
very  favorable  to  the  cultivator.  When  the  cr  )p  has  been  measured 
by  an  officer  appointed  for  the  purpose,  if  the  seed  be  supplied  by 


*  parts  only  of  the  paragraphs  referred  to  are  quoted. 


USUAL  AND  EXTRAOKDINARr  PRESENTS.  281 


aovernmeiit,  it  is  returned;  and  ten  per  cent,  of  tlic  whole  is  next 
put  aside  lor  the  reapers  and  tlireshers  ;  after  whicli  the  rcrnainder 
is  equally  divided  between  the  cultivator  and  the  kiii<r.  Lands  that 
are  the  prt)perty  of  individuals  pay  accordijig  to  their  situation  in 
respect  to  water.  When  the  supply  is  certain  and  obtained  from  a 
flowing  stream,  they  pay  twenty  per  cent,  on  produce,  after  deduct- 
ing seed  and  the  allowance  before  stated.  If  the  water  comes  from 
aqueducts,  they  pay  fifteen  per  cent.;  and  if  from  wells  or  reser- 
voirs, only  five.' 

Of  otiier  sources  of  revenue,  Malcolm  remarks,  '  A  part  of  the 
fixed  revenue  is  derived  from  ground-rents  of  houses,  rents  of  cara- 
vanserais, baths,  shops,  water-mills,  manufactures,  and  duties  on  all 
kinds  of  foreign  and  home  merchandize.  The  revenue  collected 
from  shops  is  very  considerable.  When  these  beking  to  government, 
a  rent  is  fixed  proportionate  to  the  gain,  derived  by  those  who  hire 
them  ;  when  they  belong  to  individuals,  the  government  claims 
twenty  per  cent,  on  their  annual  profits.  The  principles  on  which 
the  whole  of  tlie  fixed  revenue  is  settled  are  just  and  moderate;  and 
the  system  is  so  perfectly  understood,  that  it  is  [not  necessarily]  at- 
tended with  either  difficulty  or  oppression.  But  unfortunately,  the 
monarchs  have  never  been  satisfied  with  this,  and  its  justice  and 
moderation  only  serve  to  make  the  people  feel,  more  sensibly,  the 
irregular  and  oppressive  taxes  they  are  continually  exposed  to.  The 
first  of  these  may  be  termed  usual  and  extraordinary  presents.  The 
usual  presents  to  the  king  are  those  made  annually,  by  all  governors 
of  provinces,  and  districts,  chiefs  of  tribes,  ministers,  and  all  other 
officers  in  high  charge,  at  the  feast  of  noo-rose,  or  vernal  equinox. 
Every  officer  of  high  rank  must  make  this  annual  offering,  which  is 
indeed  deemed  a  part  of  the  revenue  and  falls  ultimately  on  the 
farmers,  cultivators  and  manufacturers.  The  amount  paid  is  gener- 
ally regulated  by  usage  ;  to  fall  short,  is  loss  of  office  ;  and  to  ex- 
ceed, is  increase  of  favor.  There  are  extraordinary  presents,  of  a 
less  definite  nature,  but  which  are  also  of  very  considerable  amount. 
Every  person  appointed  to  a  high  employment  makes  a  present  as  a 
token  of  gratitude.  It  is  usually  settled  before  he  is  nominated,  and 
may  often  be  deemed  the  purchase-money  of  his  station.  The  pro- 
duce of  fines,  imposed  by  the  customary  law,  and  of  involuntary 
presents  extorted  from  such  as  are  suspended  or  dismissed  from  em- 
ployment, which  are  levied  on  the  pretext  of  their  delinquency,  is 
very  considerable,' 

'  The  most  oppressive  of  all  the  imports  is  called  Sddir,  a  term 
which  means  a  public  requisition  and  as  opposed  to  Mdliat,  or  fixed 
revenue,  denotes  taxation  raised  to  provide  for  extraordinaries.  If 
an  addition  is  made  to  the  army — if  the  king  desires  to  construct  an 
aqueduct  or  build  a  palace — if  troops  are  marching  through  the 
country  and  require  to  be  furnished  with  provisions — if  a  foreign 
mission  arrives  in  Persia — if  one  of  the  royal  family  is  married — in 
short,  on  any  occurrence  more  than  ordinary,  an  impost  is  laid, 

36 


282  CAUSES  OF  WRETCHEDNESS  ROYAL  BRIBE. 


sometimes  on  tlie  whole  kingdom,  at  others  only  on  particular  pro- 
vinces. The  sadir  extends  to  all  classes.  It  usually  bears  lightest 
on  the  wandering  tribes,  not  only  because  they  are  the  poorest,  but 
because  they  are  the  most  impatient  of  such  taxation.  It  falls 
heaviest  upon  the  proprietors  of  estates  and  citizens.  It  is,  or  rather 
ought  to  be,  levied  according  to  defined  rules,  and  every  person 
should  pay  (he  sddir,  in  the  same  proportion  as  he  pays  the  maliat ; 
but  the  governors  of  provinces  usually  exercise  an  arbitrary  discre- 
tion in  collecting  this  tax  which  renders  it  more  oppressive.  They 
settle  the  gross  amount  each  village  is  to  pay,  and  this  affords  them 
an  opportunity  of  showing  partiality  and  committing  injustice.  This 
tax  is  very  severe  upon  the  poorer  classes  of  cultivators,  from  the 
necessity  of  selling  the  crops  upon  the  ground,  at  a  low  price,  in  or- 
der to  pay  it.'* 

The  lower  classes  in  Persia  are  thus  literally  and  strictly  r ayahs — 
Jlocks — which  are  kept  merely  for  X.he\r  fiecce  ;  and  they  are  usually 
shorn  so  often  and  closely  as  greatly  to  diminish  their  value  and  the 
profit  of  the  owner.  So  grasping  is  the  hand  of  avarice  that  the 
fowl  itself  that  lays  the  golden  egg  is  not  unfrequently  killed.  It  is 
not  natural  to  Persia,  and  especially  this  part  of  it,  to  be  a  wretched 
country.  It  is  her  oppressive  government,  her  army  of  idle  despots 
and  the  general  corruption  of  her  morals,  that  fills  this  fair  inheri- 
tance with  wailing  and  wo.  Said  our  Meerza,  on  one  occasion, 
"  Our  country  is  miserable,  and  has  no  health."  Why,  I  inquired. 
"  Because  the  great  men  are  poor  and  have  no  money,"  he  replied. 
Mistaken  man  !  May  he  and  his  countrymen  learn  the  true  source 
of  their  misery — their  wickedness — and  embrace  their  only  remedy, 
the  gospel. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

JOURNAL;  AUGUST— DECEMBER,  183G. 

We  rode  out  about  two  miles  from  the  city,  Aug.  22,  by  invita- 
tion of  the  governor,  to  witness  the  ceremony  of  Khdlldt  Pooskdn, 
putting  on  the  robe,  i.  e.  a  robe  of  honor,  received  by  the  chief  mag- 
istrate as  a  token  of  favor  from  the  king.  In  this  instance,  both  the 
governor  and  his  eldest  son  received  robes,  the  latter,  as  an  expres- 
sion of  royal  congratulation,  in  prospect  of  his  soon  being  married 
to  a  daughter  of  the  old  king.  To-day,  the  intended  bride  reached 
Oroomiah,  after  a  long  journey  from  Tehran,  and  her  arrival  added 
much  to  the  interest  of  the  occasion. 


*  Hist,  of  Persia,  Vol.  II.  p.  336  et  seq. 


j\  I'F.n  jJAH   LADY  AT  HO  Mi". 


PEKSIAN  LADIES  LACING  PAINTING.  283 


The  governor  and  his  son  put  on  their  robes  of  honor  in  private 
tents,  and  then  presented  themselves  in  the  same,  under  a  splendid 
pavilion,  to  which  we  had  been  previously  conducted.  The  sides 
of  this  tent  were  open,  and  under  and  around  it  sat  scores  of  the 
Muhaminedan  priesthood  and  nobility,  and  farther  back  stood  many 
thousands  of  all  classes  of  the  people.  In  the  midst  of  this  con- 
course, a  Moollah  rose,  and  with  a  voice  like  a  Stentor,  read  three 
highly  commendatory  letters,  forwarded  by  the  king,  with  the  robes 
of  honor,  to  the  governor  and  his  son.  Persian  rulers  derive  most 
of  their  authority  from  impressions  communicated  on  these  occa- 
sions. The  assembled  multitude,  seeing  the  gorgeous  garments  and 
listening  to  the  flowery  compliments  from  the  king  to  their  gover- 
nor, are  led  to  consider  him  as  one  of  His  Majesty's  favorites,  and 
their  loyalty  is  kept  alive,  by  the  annual  arrival  and  display  of  these 
tokens  of  royal  approbation. 

After  the  Moollah  had  read  the  letters  from  the  king,  trays*  of 
delicious  sweetmeats  were  placed  before  those  who  were  privileged 
to  sit  under  and  around  the  governor's  tent.  Those  first  served 
greedily  filled  their  pockets  and  handkerchiefs  with  the  sweetmeats, 
and  others  more  modest  but  equally  entitled  to  them,  were  sent 
empty  away.  The  governor  rode  on  a  mile  or  two  beyond  the  scene 
of  the  celebration,  unattended,  except  by  his  body  guard,  to  meet 
and  escort  his  son's  bride.  The  concourse  remained,  awaiting  his 
return,  and  after  an  hour,  his  Excellency  came,  with  the  royal  stran- 
ger and  her  great  retinue,  and  all  filed  in  and  proceeded  to  the  city. 
The  beauty  of  the  bride  we  could  not  avouch  nor  call  in  question, 
as  she  was  closely  veiled,  in  the  manner  in  which  Muhammedan 
females  are  required  to  be  in  public.  The  accompanying  drawing- 
gives  a  good  idea  of  the  appearance  of  Persian  ladies  at  home  and 
we  may  at  least  presume  that  the  Princess  was  as  fair  as  this  repre- 
sentation. Among  the  higher  classes,  the  ladies  devote  a  large  por- 
tion of  their  time  to  the  toilet.  Inspection  of  the  drawing  will  re- 
mind the  reader  tha^t  painti7}g  and  tight-lacing  are  not  confined  to 
the  Western  continent.  Persian  ladies  color  their  eyebrows  black — 
the  hair  being  combed  down  upon  the  forehead  and  cut  short  above 
them — the  nails  both  of  their  fingers  and  toest  auburn,  and  their 
cheeks,  red.  They  commonly  have  a  bellt  drawn  upon  the  back  of 
their  toilet  mirror,  with  which  they  compare  their  own  persons,  till 
their  resemblance  to  the  model  is  such  as  to  satisfy  them.  Many 
who  aspire  to  the  highest  grade,  in  taste,  add  to  painting  the  charms 
of  tattooing  the  face  and  neck,  as  indicated  in  the  drawing.  The 
females,  among  the  Muhammedans,  are  good-looking  and  often 
handsome.  They  are  more  or  less  allied  to  the  "  Georgian  beau- 
ties" of  school  geographies,  having  regular  Caucasian  faces,  with 

*  The  large  wooden  waiter,  already  described. 

t  In  summer,  Persian  ladies  do  not  wear  stockings,  and  in  their  houses, 
they  go  without  shoes ;  and  delicate  feet  are  with  them  as  much  an  object  of 
study  as  delicate  hands. 


2S4 


HATREB  TOWARD  THE  MCHAMMEDANS. 


complexions  often  almost  as  light  as  our  own  ;  but  always  a  heavy 
masculine  expression,  far  enough  removed  from  the  delicate  features 
of  American  ladies.  Their  hair  and  eyes  arc  uniformly  black ;  and 
these,  with  tlie  labors  of  the  toilet,  their  shrill  voices  and  not  too 
modest  air,  give  to  them,  in  tlie  eyes  of  the  other  sex,  a  very  fasci- 
nating, or  more  strictly,  bewitching  appear arjcc.  The  female  chil- 
dren of  the  Inglier  classes  go  to  school  with  the  males  enough  to 
learn  to  read  and  write  ;  but  neither  the  ideas  and  usages  of  the 
country  nor  their  text-hooks  are  such  as  to  excite  and  encourage  in 
them  a  desire  for  mental  accomplishment,  so  much  as  for  personal 
decoration  and  the  arts  of  coquetry — nor  does  their  education,  if  it 
polish,  essentially  elevate  their  character.  The  nuptial  parties  were 
preceded  by  a  large  number  of  musicians  and  professional  dancers, 
who  njade  the  whole  region  resound  with  their  music,  which,  with 
the  leaping,  gambols,  prostrations  and  other  feats  of  the  dancers  was 
kept  up  till  they  reached  the  governor's  palace.  Pomp  and  noise  are 
indispensable  items,  in  all  public  entertainments  in  Persia. 

Both  sides  of  the  road  were  lined,  for  a  great  distance,  with  men, 
women  and  children,  as  we  advanced  towards  the  city.  Not  less 
probably  than  ten  or  twelve  thousand  persons  were  thus  crowded 
together,  eager  to  see  and  to  hear.  As  we  passed  the  last  group, 
said  Mar  Joseph,  who  accompanied  us,  "  could  I  have  my  wish,  it 
would  be  to  behold  all  this  vast  multitude  lying  (had  corpses.^' 
Such  was  the  language  of  a  christian  bishop!  "What  do  yon 
mean  ?"  said  I  to  him.  "J  mean  as  I  say,"  he  replied;  "they  are 
Muhammedans  and  blaspheme  the  Messiah."  I  asked  him  whether 
he  remembered,  on  one  occasion,  when  Christ  was  reviled  on  earth, 
some  of  his  disciples  proposed  to  call  down  fire  from  heaven  and 
consume  the  revilers,  and  their  Master  said  to  them,  "  Ye  know  not 
what  manner  of  spirit  ye  are  of."  The  good  bishop  felt  and  acknow- 
ledged the  justice  of  the  rebuke.  He  is  naturally  a  very  kind,  amia- 
ble man ;  but  neither  he  nor  his  people  seem  to  know  the  meaning 
o{  chrhtian  compaftsion.  Trodden  down  by  their  Muhammedan  ru- 
lers, they  never  think  of  forgiving  them,  but  as  the  only  retaliation 
in  their  power,  draw  a  miserable  satisfaction  from  cherishing  the 
most  inveterate  hatred  toward  their  oppressors. 

I  was  once  forcibly  reminded  of  the  depth  of  this  hatred,  by  its 
development  at  the  funeral  of  an  aged  Khan,  who,  like  others  of 
his  rank,  had  grievously  oppressed  his  serfs.  The  villagers — all 
Nestorians — came  to  the  city,  as  the  custom  is  in  such  cases,  and 
assembled  before  the  door  of  the  deceased,  to  make  lamentation  and 
tender  their  condolence  to  the  widow  and  family.  One  of  our  na- 
tive helpers,  who  happened  to  be  passing  the  dwelling  at  the  time, 
halted  a  few  moments  to  listen  to  the  Joud  expressions  of  their  grief, 
some  of  which  he  retained  and  related  to  me, — such  for  instance  as 
the  following,  "The  wicked  old  oppressor  is  dead;  we  are  glad  of 
it ;  he  is  receiving  the  reward  of  his  iniquity  ;  may  his  whole  house- 
hold soon  follow  him."    The  bereaved  Muhanimedan  family  did 


EXPOSURE  OF  HEALTH  SICKNESS. 


285 


not  understand  the  Nestorian  language  in  which  the  villagers  thus 
gave  utterance  to  tlieir  sorrow,  but  were  little  disposed  to  question 
their  sincerity,  accompanied  as  their  exclamations  were,  with  vio- 
lent beating  of  the  breast,  and  piteous  sobs  and  wailings. 

The  influence  of  our  mission,  under  the  divine  blessing,  is,  how- 
ever, adequate  to  effect  a  radical  chan^ie  in  this  people.  And  it  is 
delightful  lo  contemplate  our  labors,  und  still  niore  to  eng.ige  in  them, 
with  such  an  object  in  view.  The  means  which  we  are  now  using, 
to  accompliah  the  work,  are  the  daily  instruction  of  the  seven 
ecclesiastics  in  our  families;  familiar  intercourse  with  the  mem- 
bers of  our  seminary,  about  fifty  in  number,  and  their  stated 
religious  as  well  as  other  instruction ;  the  free  circulation  of 
the  Scriptures,  in  the  ancient  language ;  the  establishment  of  schools 
in  the  villages  as  fast  as  practicable;  and  visiting  among  the  people 
to  the  utmost  extent  that  our  other  duties  will  allow.  We  hope 
much  from  the  almost  sixty  Nestorians  collected  on  our  premises. 
They  come  directly  under  our  influence.  Many  of  them  are  ec- 
clesiastics; two  are  bishops  whose  word  is  law;  they  are  from  all 
parts  of  the  province;  and  through  them,  as  arteries,  we  hope  our 
influence  will  extend,  until  it  shall  gradually  reach  every  village, 
hamlet  and  human  habitation  in  the  nation. 

During  our  first  year's  residence  at  Oroomiah,  we  suffered  much 
from  sickness.  It  was  late  in  November,  in  a  climate  almost  as 
cold  as  that  of  New  England,  that  we  were  obliged  to  repair  and 
plaster  the  dilapidated  mud-walled  houses  which  we  rented  to  live 
in.  The  rooms  had  little  opportunity  to  dry;  and  while  the  barley, 
from  the  straw  mixed  with  the  nuid,  grew  from  the  walls  of  our  own 
sleeping  room,  which  communicated  with  the  apartment  in  which 
we  lived  and  was  thus  partially  warmed,  the  frost  stiflened  the  bed- 
clothes of  the  lamented  Mrs.  Grant,  whose  sleeping  room  was  not 
even  thus  u'armed;  and  these  exposures,  during  that  winter,  did 
much  to  undermine  our  systems,  and  render  them  an  easy  prey  to 
disease.  Such  exposure  should  have  been  avoided,  perhaps  even 
at  the  expense  of  deferring,  a  few  months  longer,  our  settlement  at 
Oroomiah.  But  so  ripe  and  inviting  is  our  field — so  eager  and  im- 
patient were  the  people  for  instruction,  that  we  felt  constrained 
to  forget  ourselves,  while  we  entered  as  speedily  as  possible  upon 
our  labors  for  their  salvation.  The  climate  of  Oroomiah,  as  has 
been  stated,  is  also  very  hostile  to  foreigners.  When  the  first 
spring  and  summer  came,  sickness  seized  upon  us  like  a  strong  man 
armed.  The  other  individuals  of  our  mission  were  repeatedly  and 
violently  attacked  with  fever  and  ague,  and  with  ophthalmy — a 
burning  inflammation  of  the  eyes — during  the  early  part  of  the  .season. 
My  own  health  remained  good,  and  I  continued  all  my  labors  unre- 
mitted, till  about  the  middle  of  August,  when  I  was  seized  by  a 
bilious  fever,  of  a  most  obstinate  and  malignant  character,  as  de- 
scribed in  the  extracts  of  my  journal  which  follow. 

Sept.  12.    Am  just  raised  from  the  brink  of  the  grave,  whither 


286     DEPENDENT  CIRCUMSTANCES  JOURNEY  TO  TABREE2. 

I  was  carried  by  a  fever,  which  ran  with  terrible  violence  under  the 
burning  sun  of  a  Persian  summer,  fifteen  days.  The  last  three 
days,  I  lay  quite  insensible,  and  at  last  speechless;  and  our  missiona- 
ry circle  nearly  or  quite  despaired  of  my  life.  But  He,  at  whose  bidding 
diseases  come  and  go,  stayed  the  progress  of  mine,  even  when  it 
seemed  to  be  doing  its  last  work,  and  brought  me  back  to  life  and 
niy  labors. 

While  1  lay  thus  sick,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Grant  were  seized  with  fever 
and  ague,  and  our  babe  was  at  the  same  time  brought  so  low  by  a 
violent  attack  of  the  croup,  that  for  several  days,  there  appeared  to 
be  no  prospect  of  its  recovery.  Our  circumstances  were  of  course 
very  dependent  and  trying.  The  Nestorians  sympathized  deeply 
with  us,  and  rendered  us  all  the  aid  in  their  power.  The  Muham- 
medans  also  manifested  much  concern,  and  sent  often  to  inquire 
how  we  were,  Our  missionary  labors  are  much  interrupted  by  this 
sickness.  They  had  been  highly  prosperous  during  the  summer. 
We  had  just  opened  schools  in  three  of  the  largest  villages,  the  resi- 
dences of  bishops,  which  still  continue.  But  our  translations- 
preparation  of  tracts  and  school-cards,  and  our  seminary  are  all 
standing  still.  In  the  school-room,  too,  where  I  was  accustomed 
to  preach  to  more  than  fifty  Nestorians,  on  the  Sabbath,  no  congre- 
gation assembles,  there  now  being  no  preacher.  I  hope  fellow-la- 
borers will  hasten  on,  that  when  one  of  us  is  sick,  the  others  may 
perform  at  least  a  part  of  the  work,  which  is  so  imperiously  de- 
manded to  be  done. 

Sept.  15.  I  started  for  Tabreez,  on  business,  but  at  this  time 
especially  with  the  hope  of  enjoying  a  less  febrile  atmosphere,  and 
hastening  the  recovery  of  my  health.  I  was  still  so  weak  that  I 
was  obliged  to  be  lifted  upon  my  horse;  but  when  mounted,  I 
found  myself  so  much  in  my  element  that  I  could  ride  thirty  miles 
without  stopping,  and  without  very  serious  fatigue. 

Sept.  21.  I  reached  Tabreez.  While  my  provisions  lasted 
which  I  took  with  me  from  home,  I  enjoyed  my  journey,  and  my 
health  rapidly  improved.  But  after  these  were  exhausted,  the 
miserable  villages  on  the  road  afforded  so  little  suited  to  the  wants 
of  a  sick  man,  that  I  suffered  extremely,  and  the  last  night  was 
violently  seized  again  with  fever.  My  last  ride  was  well  nigh  in- 
tolerable. Wlien  T  finally  reached  Tabreez,  I  was  almost  exhaust- 
ed, and  experienced  the  greatest  conceivable  relief  in  casting  myself 
into  the  kind  embrace  of  our  excellent  German  brethren,  by  whose 
incessant  attention  and  nursing  I  was  soon  made  comfortable,  and 
though  my  fever  ran  again  several  days,  it  was  much  less  violent 
than  the  former  one,  and  was  at  length  removed  by  Mr.  Haas'  judi- 
cious prescription. 

Oct.  17.  I  reached  home.  I  found  my  ride,  in  returning,  very 
beneficial  to  my  still  feeble  health.  But  my  sickness  has  so  shaken 
my  formerly  firm  system,  that  I  fear  I  shall  not  soon  recover  from 
the  shock.    The  Lord,  however,  orders  all  in  wisdom  as  well  as 


FIRMAN  FROM  THE  KINg's  BROTHER. 


287 


mercy.  In  my  weakness,  his  power  may  be  magnified.  I  may 
remark,  while  speaking  of  our  health,  that  I  have  once  since 
been  attacked  with  a  bilious  Fever  of  the  same  malignant  character, 
and  at  the  same  hot  season  of  the  year  ;  but  it  was  earlier  arrested  ; 
and  subsequently,  with  the  exception  of  occasional  attacks  of  excruci- 
ating tooth-ache,  which  is  one  of  the  forms  in  which  the  effects  of 
the  malaria  of  our  climate  are  developed,  I  have  enjoyed  tolerable 
health,  and  seem  for  several  of  the  last  years  to  have  beconie  happily 
acclimated  to  the  trying  influences  of  that  sickly  clitiie.  Several  of 
the  other  members  of  our  mission  continue  to  suffer,  to  an  almost 
inconceivable  extent,  from  frequent  attacks  of  fever,  fever  and  ague 
and  diseases  of  the  eyes.  Mrs.  Grant  had  nearly  lost  the  sight  of 
one  of  her  eyes,  by  a  violent  attack  of  ophthalniy,  a  few  months  be- 
fore her  death. 

Oct.  20.  Two  Persian  princes  have  recently  visited  Oroomiah. 
One  of  them  is  Kahraman  Meerza,  a  favorite  brother  of  the  king, 
and  the  prince-governor  of  Azerbijan — the  northern  province  of 
Persia.  The  other  is  his  uncle,  Malek  Kasem  Meerza.  They  had 
heard  of  our  residing  here,  and  of  our  seminary,  which  is  a  great 
novelty  in  the  country ;  and  the  prince-governor  sent  his  uncle  to 
visit  us,  and  look  into  our  missionary  operations.  The  royal  per- 
sonage came,  in  a  most  friendly  manner,  dined  with  us,  and  in- 
spected our  seminary.  He  professed  himself  highly  gratified  with 
the  performances  of  the  school,  and  encouraged  the  scholars — all 
Nestorians — by  promising  to  i)rocure  for  them  eligible  places  in  the 
army  and  elsewhere,  whenever  their  education  should  be  completed. 
And  as  the  result  of  his  report  to  the  king's  brother,  the  latter,  en- 
tirely unsolicited  by  us,  prepared  and  sent  to  us  a  firman  of  which 
the  following  is  a  translation. 

Firman. 

"  The  command  of  His  Highness  is  :  "Whereas  the  very  honor- 
able and  respected  gentlemen,  Messrs.  Perkins  and  Grant,  at  Oroo- 
miah, are  attending  to  the  education  of  the  people  and  render  the 
people  useful,  by  teaching  them  European  science,  the  grace  of  our 
Excellency  and  Highness  having  become  favorably  disposed  towards 
them,  we  order  and  command  three  soldiers  to  their  safety,  at  this 
harvest  season  and  onward;  and  in  accordance  with  this  grace,  we 
command  that  they  shall  be  honored  and  praise  our  beneficence.  It 
is  our  command,  that  the  exalted  and  noble  lord,  Najef  Kooly 
Khan,  governor  of  Oroomiah,  shall  take  care  to  protect  them  in 
every  respect;  and  he  shall  give  to  each  of  the  three  soldiers,  the 
guard  of  their  safety,  twelve  sahib  kordns  ($3,00)  per  month ;  and 
never  shall  he  neglect  it.  It  is  ordered  that  the  trusty  secretaries 
arrange  and  execute  the  sum  of  this  blessed  command. 

Written  in  the  month  Jamady-ul-evvel,  in  the  1252,"  (i.  e  of  the 
Hejira). 


288 


SECLUSION  OF  PERSIAN  FEMALES. 


It  is  of  course  always  far  "bettor  to  trust  in  tlie  Lord  than  to  put 
confidence  in  princes."  Such  protection  and  encouragement,  how- 
ever, voluntarilv  tendered  to  us  by  the  second  nian  in  Muhamnie- 
dan  Persia,  in  the  infancy  of  our  mission,  could  not  but  impress  and 
encourage  us,  with  a  delightful  confidence,  that  God  is  by  his  pro- 
vidence, opening  for  us  a  wide  door  of  faith  unto  the  gentiles.  It 
is  a  circumstance  very  auspicious  to  the  cause  of  missions,  in  this 
country,  that  the  king  and  other  members  of  the  royal  family  are 
very  ambitious  to  be  known  as  patrons  of  European  science  and  im- 
provements. The  church  may  thus,  though  they  design  it  not,  find 
more  than  one  Cyrus,  among  the  princes  of  modern  Persia.  The 
provision  made  in  the  foregoing  firman,  of  only  a  part  of  which  we 
ever  felt  it  necessary  to  avail  ourselves,  will  be  understood,  if  the 
reader  recollects  the  description  I  have  given  of  the  Muhamniedans 
ofOroomiah,  and  particularly  of  the  lawless  Lootee. 

Nov.  10.  We  started  on  a  visiting  excursion,  among  some  of  the 
Nestorian  villages.  We  rode  two  fursakhs,  to  Cowsee,  the  village 
of  priest  Yohannan,  the  principal  of  our  seminary.  The  priest  and 
his  people  received  and  entertained  us  with  great  cordiality.  A 
young  Muhammedari  beg — son  of  the  owner  of  the  village — came 
also  to  our  lodgings  to  make  our  acquaintance.  The  Nestorians 
told  us,  that  this  beg  and  his  father  are  very  kind  masters  for  Mu- 
hammedans,  a  testimony  the  more  gratifying,  as  it  is  so  rarely  heard, 
in  this  land  of  oppression.  The  ladies  of  the  owner  of  the  village 
also  came  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  Mrs.  P.  and  Mrs.  G.  who,  on 
their  pressing  invitation,  returned  the  visit.  Like  all  Persian  fe- 
males, when  they  walk  abroad,  their  faces  were  closely  veiled. 
Miihammedan  law  denounces  death  on  any  female  who  exposes  her 
face  to  a  male  beyond  the  limits  of  her  own  household.  A  large 
covering  is  thrown  over  the  person,  when  they  go  out,  to  which  is 
commonly  attached  a  small  veil  before  the  face  with  a  patch  of  net- 
work of  half  the  size  of  the  hand,  before  the  eyes,  to  enable  them  to 
see  to  walk.  This  rigorous  seclusion  is,  doubtless,  as  fruitful  a 
source,  as  it  is  striking  an  index,  of  the  unfaithful  character  of  Mu- 
hammedan  females.  The  practice  of  veiling  in  itself  is  said  exten- 
sively to  facilitate  and  screen  illicit  connexions.  The  Nestorian 
females  arc  under  no  such  restraint,  in  their  general  intercourse, 
and  the  fruits  of  their  liberty  appear  in  their  superior  morals.  Such 
seclusion,  we  might  suppose,  would  prove  a  powerful  check,  to  the 
careful  study  and  tireless  efforts  of  Mohammedan  ladies  to  decorate 
their  persons.  But  nowhere  are  females  more  industrious  in  the 
department  of  the  toilet  than  among  the  Muhammedans  of  Persia. 
Rival  wives  are  prompted  to  this,  in  order  to  clothe  themselves  with 
attractions  that  will  secure  a  share  in  the  husband's  attentions. 
A  ffection,  in  the  practice  of  polygamy,  is  of  minor  consideration. 
Their  ambition  in  their  toilet  does,  moreover,  in  reality  extend  a 
little  beyond  their  own  thresholds;  curiosity,  in  Persia,  as  well  as 
el.'^ewhere,  is  too  powerfiil  a  spring  in  the  female  bosom  to  be  en- 


A  PKRSrAN  LAUV  VEILED  TO  WALK  /UJROAD 


A  PERSIAN  LADY  VEILED  TO  00  AiiKOAU 


VISIT  TO  VILLAGES  ATTACK  FROM  THE  LOOTEE.  289 


tirely  smothered.  Accordingly,  when  Persian  ladies  are  fairly  be- 
yond the  sight  of  their  jealous  masters,  they  often  take  down  their 
veil  and  gaze  freely  upon  the  sons  of  men,  and  the  beauties  of  cre- 
ation, though  in  the  letter  and  the  spirit  of  Persian  law  they  do  it 
at  the  peril  of  their  lives. 

Nov.  11.  Wishing  to  visit  another  village  beyond,  we  passed  the 
last  night  at  Cowsee,  that  we  might  prosecute  our  excursion  early 
this  morning.  Priest  Yohannan  is  poor,  but  he  was  extremely  grat- 
ified by  our  visit,  for  which  he  had  long  importuned  us;  and  he 
spared  no  pains  to  make  us  comfortable.  Notwithstanding  our 
strong  remonstrance,  he  abandoned  his  best  room — and  in  fact  his 
only  one — for  our  accommodation,  while  he  and  his  numerous 
household  sought  lodgings  elsewhere,  as  they  could  find  them.  And 
about  day-break,  this  morning,  the  joyful  tidings  were  announced 
to  us,  that  the  principal  lady  of  the  house,  the  wife  of  the  priest's 
brother,  had  become  the  mother  of  a  fine  son,  in  the  course  of  the 
night,  in  the  stable.  It  was  in  a  stable ;  but  our  adorable  Lord  was 
also  born  in  a  stable.  We  judge  of  things  by  comparison.  Miser- 
able as  are  the  stables  in  Asia,  the  choice  between  lodging  in  them 
or  the  "  inns"  is  very  inconsiderable. 

We  started  about  8  o'clock,  priest  Yohannan  joining  our  party, 
and  rode  four  fursakhs,  to  Ada,  the  village  of  Mar  Joseph.  Our 
road  led  us,  most  of  the  way,  down  the  enchanting  vale  of  the  Nas- 
16o  river.  We  reached  Ada  about  noon  and  were  again  cordially 
welcomed  by  the  bishop.  Soon  after  our  arrival,  we  met  with  a 
serious  adventure.  Mrs.  P.  and  myself  and  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Grant 
were  walking  quietly  through  the  village,  when  three  of  the  Lootee, 
or  professional  ruffians,  hedged  up  our  path,  which  was  narrow,  by 
stationing  a  horse  across  it,  and  taking  a  stand  themselves  on  either 
side.  Priest  Abraham,  who  was  with  us,  stepped  forward  and 
mildly  requested  them  to  turn  the  horse  a  little  and  allow  us  to  pass 
by;  upon  which  one  of  them  drew  his  dagger,  a  terrible  weapon, 
which  they  always  carry,  and  raised  it  to  strike  him.  Seeing  the 
defenceless  priest  in  such  peril,  I  instinctively  sprang  forward,  not 
doubting  that  my  presence  would  check  the  ruffian ;  but  so  far  from 
that,  he  turned  in  a  moment  from  the  priest  upon  me,  and  stabbed 
me  with  indescribable  ferocity.  I  had  not  yet  fully  recovered  from 
the  severe  sickness  which  I  have  mentioned;  and  to  this  circum- 
stance, under  God,  I  owe  my  preservation.  Being  quite  weak,  as 
I  sprang  back,  to  evade  the  weapon,  I  suddenly  fell.  It  passed 
through  all 'my  clothing,  and  slightly  penetrated  my  body.  Had  I 
not  fallen  as  I  did,  it  must  have  entered  my  heart  and  instantly  kill- 
ed me.  As  it  was,  it  harmed  me  only  just  enough  to  leave  a  speak- 
ing witness,  in  the  small  wound  it  made,  against  the  bloody  assassin. 
An  almighty  and  ever  present  Protector  said  to  the  deadly  point, 
"  hitherto  and  no  farther."  And  as  we  ran  into  a  house,  barred 
the  doors  and  found  ourselves  secure  from  those  men  of  violence 
who  still  fiercely  pursued  us,  I  felt  a  calmer  and  stronger  confidence 

37 


290 


SCHOOL  AT  ADA  GIRLS  ATTENDING  IT. 


than  ever  before,  in  the  reality  of  divine  protection.  The  ladies 
were  of  course  frightened  for  the  moment,  though  not  injured,  in  the 
furious  attack.  Priest  Abraham  received  a  serious  gash  in  his  head 
and  a  sword  was  broken  over  his  back.  I  know  not  what  impulse 
could  have  prompted  the  ruffians  to  this  assault,  as  we  had  never 
seen  them  before,  but  unmixed  malignity,  excited  probably  by  par- 
tial intoxication.  This,  however,  is  always  enough  to  account  for 
the  outrages  of  the  Lootee.  The  Nestorians  of  the  village  mani- 
fested deep  sorrow  for  what  had  happened,  but  through  fear  of  their 
oppressors,  they  could  only  run  into  their  houses  and  bar  the  doors, 
lest  they  too  should  be  the  victims  of  violence.  Mar  Joseph  in  par- 
ticular, was  grieved  beyond  measure.  I  told  him  that  it  was  not 
his  fault,  nor  that  of  the  Nestorians,  but  he  almost  refused  to  be 
comforted. 

Nov.  12.  We  visited  the  Nestorian  school  in  Ada.  We  had 
opened  this  school  only  three  months  before,  and  it  now  numbered 
about  forty  children  and  was  as  well  regulated  as  any  school  that  I 
ever  visited.  I  was  very  agreeably  surprised  also  by  the  proficiency 
of  the  children.  Most  of  them,  at  the  commencement  of  the  school, 
knew  none  of  their  letters.  Now  all  could  read  the  Psalms,  which 
we  have  copied  upon  cards,  very  well.  An  interesting  fact  in  rela- 
tion to  this  school  is,  that  girls,  as  well  as  boys,  attend  it.  Not  a 
single  female,  among  the  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah,  could  read  when 
we  entered  the  field ;  and  the  idea  was  as  unwelcome  as  it  was 
novel  and  strange.  It  was  regarded,  by  both  sexes,  as  improper, — 
an  over-stepping  of  female  modesty  and  propriety ;  as  much  so  as 
it  would  be — or  rather  is — in  the  common  estimation  in  America, 
for  females  to  become  public  speakers  and  harangue  promiscuous 
assemblies.  But  the  girls  were  sent  to  this  school  at  Ada  by  their 
parents,  without  any  direct  agency  on  our  part.  We  had  stated  to 
the  ecclesiastics  in  our  families,  that  females,  as  well  as  males,  all 
learn  to  read  in  America;  and  they  had  repeated  the  fact  to  others. 
The  example  of  the  ladies  of  the  mission  tended  also  to  recommend 
the  practice.  We  are  careful  not  to  press  what  the  Nestorians  re- 
gard as  innovations,  lest  we  should  become  obnoxious  as  ntw  mea- 
sure men.  It  is  far  more  easy  to  lead  men,  the  world  over,  than  to 
drive  them. 

Nov.  14.  The  governor  sent  our  Meerza,  early  this  morning,  to 
ascertain  who  had  assaulted  us  at  Ada,  saying  that  they  must  be 
arrested  and  punished.  He  afterward  sent  also  an  uncle  and  a 
brother  to  me,  to  inform  me  that  he  had  despatched  officers  to  ap- 
prehend the  assailants,  and  to  intimate  his  wish  that  I  should  not 
complain  to  the  prince  at  Tabreez,  as  he  would  himself  punish 
them  to  my  entire  satisfaction. 

Nov.  15.  As  the  governor  was  thus  disposed  to  take  cognizance 
of  the  matter,  while  as  yet,  we  had  intimated  no  expectation  or  wish 
that  he  would  do  so,  we  thought  it  due  that  we  should  propose  to 
wait  on  him  and  make  a  full  statement  of  the  circumstances.  And 


COGNIZANCE  OF  THE  ASSAULT. 


291 


at  an  hour  named  by  his  Excellency  for  the  purpose,  Dr.  Grant  and 
myself  called  on  him.  He  received  ^us  as  usual,  with  great  kind- 
ness. He  had  a  full  court,  before  whom  and  his  Excellency,  I  gave 
a  minute  detail  of  the  assault.  All  present  appeared  much  con- 
cerned, and  professed  to  feel  a  good  deal  of  responsibility,  in  look- 
ing after  the  affair.  The  governor  remarked  that  the  crime  was 
much  aggravated,  by  two  circumstances.  First,  he  said,  I  was  aa 
Englishman  *  and  an  Englishman's  person  is  held  sacred  in  Persia. 
And  in  the  next  place,  he  added,  /  was  an  English  MooUdh,  (point- 
ing to  me  and  a  high  Aloollah  who  sat  by  his  side,)  and  our  Prophet, 
he  continued,  enjoined  the  utmost  reverence  towards  Moollahs. 
The  governor  urged  me  to  name  the  punishment  which  I  thought 
due  to  the  ruffian  who  stabbed  me,  declaring  that  he  would  inflict 
any  I  might  mention,  whether  it  should  be  whipping,  cutting  off 
the  hands,  the  nose,  the  ears,  or  the  head.  I  declined  intimating 
either  the  degree  or  kind  of  punishment  I  might  deem  proper,  sug- 
gesting to  his  Excellency,  that  to  decide  that  point  was  his  own 
prerogative;  and  moreover,  on  the  supposition  that  his  disposal  of 
the  case  should  not  prove  satisfactory,  it  would  still  be  not  our  busi- 
ness, but  that  of  the  English  anAbassador,  whose  protection  we  en- 
joy, to  call  farther  attention  to  the  subject. 

Some  one  of  the  courtiers  suggested  that  the  fact  of  the  ruffian's 
being  intoxicated  at  the  time  might  perhaps  extenuate  his  guilt ; 
and  the  governor  inquired  of  me  how  the  law  regards  a  drunkard 
in  our  country.  I  told  him,  our  laws  require,  that  for  the  crimes 
which  a  man  commits  when  he  is  intoxicated,  he  shall  answer  when 
he  is  sober.  This  principle  appeared  to  strike  them  as  a  good  one, 
though  different  from  Persian  usage.  The  governor  seemed  very 
solicitous  to  inflict  a  punishment  that  would  satisfy  me,  alike  I  have 
no  doubt  from  personal  friendliness  toward  us,  and  from  a  desire  to 
appear  praiseworthy  in  the  estimation  of  the  English  ambassador,  to 
whom  he  probably  expected  his  conduct  in  the  case  would  be  re- 
ported. 

Nov.  19.  The  governor  sent  for  myself  and  Dr.  Grant  to  wait 
on  him  and  witness  the  punishment  of  the  principal,  in  the  assault 
upon  us,  whom  he  had  apprehended.  We  immediately  repaired  to 
the  palace,  and  after  drinking  coffee  and  conversing  about  an  hour, 
the  culprit  was  presented  on  the  pavement  in  the  open  court.  His 
comrades  had  absconded.  Providentially,  the  one  who  attacked 
me  was  apprehended.  On  his  being  led  forward,  the  governor  in- 
quired whether  I  recognized  him  as  the  assailant,  to  which  1  replied 
in  the  affirmative.  He  then  questioned  the  ruffian,  why  he  had  at- 
tacked these  gentlemen,  who  were  his  own  personal  friends,  often 
his  guests,  and  for  whose  safety  he  felt  fully  responsible.  For  half 
a  century,  said  he,  there  have  been  Englishmen  in  Persia,  and  never 


'*  Few  of  the  Persians  can,  or  will,  comprehend  our  distinct  nalionality  as 
Americans,  however  much  we  proclaim  it. 


292 


PUNISHMENT  BENEFICIAL  EFFECTS. 


before  has  one  suffered  violence.  The  ruffian  replied  that  he  had 
done  nothing  to  these  gentlemen.  But  so  far  from  listening  to  such 
an  answer,  the  governor  ordered  him  to  be  immediately  stripped 
and  bound  to  the  whipping  frame.  This  consisted  of  three  long 
and  stout  poles,  framed  together  at  the  top  and  diverging  downward, 
like  a  surveyor's  compass-stand.  Each  wrist  was  bound  to  one  of 
the  poles  at  a  height  about  on  a  level  with  his  head  and  a  wide 
strap,  applied  to  the  back  of  his  neck  and  held  by  two  men,  thus 
bending  his  body  forward,  kqpt  him  from  struggling.  In  that 
posture,  two  hundred  and  fifty  lashes  were  laid  upon  his  naked 
back  in  the  presence  of  a  large  concourse.  He  went  to  the 
frame  and  submitted  to  be  bound,  with  an  air  of  entire  unconcern 
and  determined  hardihood ;  but  though  very  athletic  and  with  the 
image  of  Cain  enstaniped  upon  his  features,  he  soon  softened  down 
under  the  stripes,  and  raised  a  piteous  outcry,  appealing  first  to 
Soleiman  Khan,  an  Armenian  nobleman,  and  promising  to  become 
a  Gaunor — ivjidel,  i.  e.  a  Christian,  if  the  Khan  would  rescue  him  ; 
and  finding  no  relief  from  that  quarter,  he  at  length  appealed  to  me, 
confessing  his  crime  and  proposing  to  espouse  my  religion,  if  I 
would  arrest  his  punishment.  I  understood  of  course  the  sincerity 
of  such  a  proposition  in  those  circumstances. 

The  promptness  of  the  governor,  unsolicited  by  us  as  he  was,  in 
punishing  this  ruffian,  was  highly  praiseworthy  in  a  Persian  magis- 
trate. And  on  the  whole,  we  had  little  reason  (o  regret  the  occur- 
rence, frightful  as  it  was  at  the  time.  In  its  result,  it  contributed 
very  essentially  to  the  permanent  security  of  ourselves  and  the  in- 
terest of  our  mission.  The  king,  hearing  of  it  some  time  afterward 
through  the  English  ambassador,  ordered  his  brother,  the  prince  of 
northern  Persia,  to  seize  the  assailant  and  send  him  to  the  capital. 
The  prince  sent  officers  to  take  him,  but  being  apprized  of  their 
coming,  he  fled  from  the  province  and  evaded  their  pursuit.  The 
summary  punishment,  however,  which  he  had  already  received  from 
the  governor,  and  the  vigorous  efforts  made  in  accordance  with  royal 
orders  again  to  apprehend  him,  produced  a  strong  and  lasting  im- 
pression, that  we  could  not  be  injured  with  impunity.  It  is  worthy 
of  remark,  moreover,  that  a  series  of  misfortunes,  befalling  some  of 
the  relatives  of  the  wicked  man  who  had  thus  assaulted  us,  a  feeling 
bordering  on  awe,  sprang  up  and  grew  into  a  common  proverb,  in 
the  province,  that  whoever  should  harm  the  missionaries,  the  Lord 
would  arrest  and  punish. 

From  that  period  to  the  present,  we  have  never  been  annoyed  by 
the  Lootee,  frequent  and  desperate  as  are  their  outrages  on  the  suf- 
fering inhabitants  among  whom  we  live.  These  outrages  are  so 
hamerous  and  fearful,  that  scarcely  a  week  elapses,  in  which  mur- 
ders are  not  committed  in  our  city  or  the  neighborhood,  though  the 
murderers  are  often  apprehended  and  executed.  The  day  after  I 
left  Oroomiah,  as  I  have  since  been  informed,  two  of  the  Lootee 
were  seized,  their  bodies  split  in  two  parts,  and  the  halves  hung  over 


APPREHENSION  RELIEF  WEDDING. 


293 


the  gates  of  the  city,  to  deter  their  comrades;  and  this  was  by  no 
means  a  strange  transaction  in  Persia.  Such  summary,  and  terri- 
ble punishments  may  shock  the  sensibilities  of  those  who  dwell  in 
the  quiet  land  of  our  fathers.  They  shock  w.s,  who  have  so  long 
been  familiar  with  them,  in  that  land  of  despotism,  violence  and 
blood.  But  we  feel  little  doubt  of  their  necessity  there,  to  give  to 
property  and  life  any  measure  of  security.  For,  even  such  appalJ- 
incr  examples,  and  their  frequent  occurrence,  are  but  a  very  limited 
check  to  the  commission  of  crime,  so  ineffectual  a  preventive  is 
mere  punishment,  in  any  community,  in  the  absence  of  morality  and 
religion.  And  that  we  have,  in  such  circumstances  of  exposure, 
lived  so  long  unharmed  and  unmolested,  in  the  open  prosecution  of 
our  missionary  work,  can  indeed  be  ascribed  only  to  the  gracious 
and  constant  guardianship  of  an  ever  present  and  watchful  Protec- 
tor. 

During  the  early  periods  of  our  residence  at  Oroomiah,  I  seldom 
retired  at  night,  without  more  or  less  apprehension  of  an  attack 
from  the  Lootee,  before  morning.  But  signal  deliverances  rebuked 
my  solicitude  on  the  subject,  and  at  length,  so  deeply  impressed  me 
with  the  truth,  that  the  weapon  of  the  assassin,  no  Jess  than  disease 
and  every  other  providential  visitation,  is  under  a  heavenly  Father's 
control,  that  for  several  of  the  last  years,  I  have  slept  as  quietly  and 
refreshingly  in  Persia,  as  I  ever  slept  in  America. 

Nov.  22.  We  were  invited  by  the  governor  to  attend  the  wed- 
ding of  Jenghair  Khan,  his  eldest  son.  The  wedding  has  been  de- 
ferred since  the  arrival  of  the  royal  bride,  about  two  months  ago,  on 
account  of  his  Excellency's  want  of  funds  to  defray  the  necessary 
expenses.  The  governor  made  the  inquiry  whether  we  would  pre- 
fer to  be  numbered  among  his  own  guests,  who  would  consist  of  the 
Moollahs  and  the  elder  Khans  of  the  city,  or  among  those  of  the 
bridegroom,  consisting  of  younger  people,  and  to  be  entertained 
with  music,  dancing  and  other  amusements.  We  expressed  our 
wish  to  be  numbered  among  the  former,  requesting  the  privilege, 
however,  of  attending  both  parties  alternately,  in  the  course  of  the 
two  or  three  days  of  the  celebration,  in  consideration  of  our  being 
strangers  desirous  to  become  acquainted  with  Persian  customs. 
Tliis  privilege  was  readily  granted. 

Nov.  28.  The  wedding  commenced.  An  officer  was  sent  to 
conduct  us  to  the  party  of  the  bridegroom.  The  entertainment  was 
rich,  but  plain.  The  amusements,  which  consisted  of  music,  danc- 
ing and  comic  exhibitions,  were  less  boisterous  than  is  usual  on  such 
occasions.  There  are  two  general  systems  of  marriage  among  the 
Persian  Muhammedans — one  for  a  limited  definite  time,  for  a  month, 
a  year,  or  any  other  period,  at  the  will  of  the  parties  ;*  and  the 

*  "  The  marriage  by  contract,  and  for  a  limited  period,  is  peculiar  to  the 
Persians.  It  is  said  to  have  been  a  custom  in  Arabia,  when  Mdharamed  first 
introdaced  his  religion  there  ;  but  though  he  tolerated  it,  Omar  abolished  it 
as  a  species  of  legal  prostitution,  inconsistent  with  good  morals.    The  Turks, 


294 


MARRIAGE  IN  PERSIA. 


other  for  life,  it  being  always  understood,  however,  that  the  hus- 
band may  in  either  case  divorce  his  wife  whenever  he  pleases.* 
The  nameless  and  numberless  miseries  growing  out  of  either  sys- 
tem, I  need  not  attempt  to  describe.  The  pretext  for  the  former 
one  is,  that  transient  residents,  particularly  merchants,  find  tempo- 
rary connexions  much  mf)re  convenient  for  their  business,  than 
permanent  ones,  as  the  removal  of  families  is  thus  superseded. 
The  females,  who  have  been  repeatedly  affianced  in  that  manner, 
are  in  about  as  good  repute  as  widows,  though  usually  only  those 
in  the  lower  classes,  or  in  dependent  circumstances,  form  such  con- 
nexions. In  relation  to  permanent  marriages,  it  may  be  said,  that 
divorces  are  far  less  frequent  than  might  be  expected  in  the  circum- 
stances. Though  pure  conjugal  affection  is  of  very  rare  growth  in 
Persia,  the  ties  that  bind  the  parents  to  their  children  do  much  al- 
so to  strengthen  their  relation  to  each  other.  The  Persian  father, 
however  little  he  may  regard  the  welftire  of  the  wife,  on  her  own 
account,  stiil  has  a  great  horror  at  the  idea  of  her  becoming  the 
companion  of  another  man,  after  repudiation,  on  account  of  the  in- 
dignity to  himself,  and  especially  on  account  of  her  relation  to  his 
offspring. 

Polygamy,  which  is  practised  in  Persia  by  all  Muharamedans 
who  have  the  means  of  supporting  a  plurality  of  wives,  I  hardly 
need  say,  is  a  great  gulf  of  abominations.  Muhammedan  law 
allows  four  wives  to  an  individual,  but  that  number  is  often  trans- 
cended among  the  higher  classes.  The  rivals,  of  course,  make  it 
their  study  and  business  to  compete  with  each  other  for  the 
attentions  of  their  husband  and  master;  and  with  their  uncultivated 
minds  and  unamiable  dispositions,  they  make  their  house,  a  perpet- 
ual bedlam.  One  of  their  number  is  indeed  the  acknowledged 
Khdnum — lady ;  which  depends  on  the  rank  of  her  pedigree,  while 
the  rest  are  her  inferiors,  or  maids.  But  it  often  happens  that  the 
latter  possess  personal  charms  superior  to  their  mistress,  which  in- 
creases the  general  difficulty.  The  children  of  different  mothers, 
growing  up  in  such  circumstances,  have  early  and  only  the  lessons 
of  contention.    The  husband,  whose  position  is  anything  but  envi- 

therefore,  and  other  Sconces  who  respect  the  decrees  of  this  caliph,  liold  it  in 
abhorrence.  The  parties  agree  to  live  together  for  a  fixed  time,  wliich  varies 
from  a  few  days  to  ninety-nine  years.  The  sum  agreed  tipon  as  the  lady's 
hire,  is  mentioned  in  the  contract,  which  i.s  made  out  by  the  cazee,  or  a 
MooUah,  and  regularly  witnessed." — Hist,  of  Persia,  Vol.  11.  p.  428. 

*  "  Divorces  are  never  on  account  of  adultery,  as  that  crime,  if  proved,  sub- 
jects a  woman  who  has  been  legally  married,  to  death.  The  general  causes 
are  complaints  of  badness  of  temper,  or  extravagance,  on  the  part  of  the  hus- 
bands ;  and  of  neglect,  or  cruel  Usage,  on  that  of  their  wives.  If  a  husband 
sue.s  for  a  divorce,  ha  is  compelled  to  pay  his  wife's  dower  ;  but  if  she  sues 
for  it,  her  claim  is  cancelled.  Hence  it  is  not  unfrequent  among  the  lower 
orders,  when  a  man  desires  to  be  rid  of  his  partner,  to  use  her  so  ill,  that  she 
is  forced  to  institute  a  suit  for  separation,  which,  if  granted,  abrogates  all  her 
claims  upon  her  husband." — Ibid. 


MORALS  EXTERNAL  DECENCY  DEVOTIONS.  295 


able,  will  sooner  or  later,  if  his  means  will  allow,  place  one  wife  in 
one  village,  a  second  in  another,  and  so  on,  that  he  may  divide  his 
attention  among  them  to  his  liking,  and  be  at  the  same  time  be- 
yond the  reach  of  the  notes  of  their  dissatisfaction,  as  well  as  to 
prevent  their  mutual  wranglings.  I  once  heard  a  European,  even 
in  Persia,  advocate  the  system  of  polygamy,  appealing  to  the  patri- 
archs for  authority.  Let  him,  however,  study  the  subject  as  pre- 
sented in  the  case  of  those  same  patriarchs,  and  he  will  find  little 
for  its  recommendation.  From  the  family  of  one,  we  read  of  the 
bond-woman  and  her  son  cast  out,  and  the  tent  of  another  was  not  re- 
markable for  domestic  harmony.  Perhaps  the  best  comment,  on 
the  whole  subject  of  malrirnony  in  Persia,  is  furnished  in  the  fact, 
that  the  two  words,  wife  and  home,  do  not  exist  in  the  native  lan- 
guages. The  Persians  can  only  say,  woman  and  house.  What  a 
world  of  meaning  clusters  around  the  two  former  terms,  in  a  coun- 
try like  ours,  which  the  latter  do  not  possess.  In  Persia,  the  names 
and  the  things  are  alike  unknown. 

Want  of  conjugal  fidelity  in  females  is  severely  punished  in  Per- 
sia when  detected.  Being  thrown  from  lofty  towers  and  dashed  in 
pieces,  and  left  to  starve  on  an  uninhabitable  island  in  the  lake  of 
Oroomiah,  are  among  the  punishments.  Such,  however,  is  the 
state  of  general  morals,  that  female  virtue  is  probably  far  more  rare 
than  infidelity  among  the  Muhammedans,  notwithstanding  these 
fearful  punishments.  Indeed,  the  whole  subject  may  be  well  un- 
derstood, when  it  is  stated,  that  the  Moollahs — the  priesthood — are 
themselves  the  licensers  and  managers  of  the  public  brothels,  and 
regard  them  as  an  important  source  of  their  income.  With  all  this 
corruption  and  misery,  there  is  still  in  the  general  aspect  in  Persia, 
great  external  propriety  and  decorum, — so  uiuch  so,  that  a  mission- 
ary may  reside  for  years  in  that  country,  and  be  little  aware  of  the 
actual  state  of  morals  among  the  people  around  him. 

Nov.  29.  We  opened  a  box,  which  had  just  reached  us  from 
America,  containing  an  electrical  machine.  Our  Meerza  happened 
to  call  on  us,  just  as  we  had  set  up  the  machine,  and  we  gave  him 
a  shock.  He  went  immediately  to  the  wedding  and  reported  the 
wonderful  instrument  that  had  arrived  from  the  New  World;  and 
the  bridegroom  sent  requesting  us  to  spend  the  ensuing  evening 
with  his  party,  and  bring  with  us  for  their  entertainment  the  prodi- 
gy from  America.  In  the  evening,  we  accordingly  put  the  machine 
in  portable  order,  and  carried  it  to  the  wedding.  When  we  arrived, 
it  was  the  hour  of  Muharamedan  prayer ;  and  it  was  deeply  im- 
pressive to  witness  the  scores  of  Moslems  in  all  parts  of  the  great 
hall,  with  their  faces  turned  toward  Mecca,  prostrating  themselves, 
and  repeating  in  a  whisper  their  devotions.  Their  entire  heartless- 
ness  in  the  service  was,  however,  very  evident.  Numbers  broke 
off,  as  we  entered,  and  gave  us  a  welcome.  The  bridegroom  con- 
ducted  us  to  a  seat,  and  after  conversing  with  us  some  time,  sug- 
gested that  if  we  would  excuse  him,  he  also  would  say  his  prayers. 


296 


ELECTRICAL  MACHINE  ALCHEMY. 


"Certainly,"  we  replied;  and  he  kneeled  down  by  our  side  and 
commenced  his  devotions,  in  the  course  of  which  he  broke  off  re- 
peatedly to  give  directions  to  his  servants,  or  to  show  us  an  atten- 
tion. 

Prayers  being  ended,  the  bridegroom  invited  us  to  exhibit  the 
wonder  from  the  New  World,  of  which  all  were  in  lively  expecta- 
tion. We  set  up  the  machine  and  directed  a  circ^e  to  be  formed 
around  the  room.  About  fifty  of  the  nobility  were  soon  filed,  in  a 
sitting  posture,  with  hands  joined.  Almost  every  variety  of  expres- 
sion was  noticeable  in  their  countenances.  Some  were  pale  with 
fear.  One  or  two  feigned  business  out,  broke  away  from  the  circle, 
and  retired.  Others  were  smiling  with  incredulity.  We  turned 
the  machine  a  few  revolutions,  and  discharged  the  bottle.  The 
experiment  was  a  successful  one,  and  removed  at  once  all  idea  of 
illusion.  The  shock  was  not,  however,  so  heavy  as  to  terrify  the 
company,  and  we  continued,  increasing  the  strength  of  each  suc- 
cessive shock,  until  the  whole  party  seemed  to  be  wrapped  in 
amazement,  declaring  that  the  mysterious  engine  possessed  unlimit- 
ed, as  well  as  unseen  power.  A  more  favorable  opportunity  for 
such  an  exhibition  could  not  possibly  have  been  presented  ;  and  we 
trust  that  some  desire  for  knowledge  and  improvement  may  have 
been  enkindled  in  the  minds  of  these  scores  of  the  Persian  nobles,  and 
the  multitudes  of  people  who  thronged  the  court  to  witness  it. 

After  spending  an  hour  or  two  with  the  bridegroonn,  the  governor 
sent  for  us  to  join  his  party.  We  repaired  to  the  palace  where  we 
were  entertained  with  a  splendid  exhibition  of  rockets  and  other  fire- 
works, on  the  public  common  in  front  of  the  palace.  The  Persians 
are  very  fond  of  this  amusement  and  are  able  to  practise  it  with 
great  perfection.  The  exhibition  of  the  fire-works  closed  the  wed- 
ding of  the  governor's  son. 

The  Persians,  much  as  they  are  non-plussed  by  the  electrical  ma- 
chine, are  not  wanting  in  "  science  falsely  so  called."  They  are 
naturally  acute  metaphysicians,  but  unguided  by  "  Divine  philoso- 
phy," their  speculations  amount  to  little  more  than  the  entities  and 
quiddities  of  the  schoolmen  and  the  dreams  of  the  old  Greek  writers. 
Alchemy  is  still  laboring  in  the  brains  of  multitudes  in  Persia  with 
all  the  magic  interest  and  ponderous  importance  that  it  possessed  in 
Europe  in  by-gone  centuries.  I  have  been  repeatedly  asked  whether 
the  electrical  machine  had  no  connexion  with  the  science  of  con- 
verting the  baser  metals  into  gold, — a  theory  very  gratefijl  to  an 
Asiatic  mind  ;  and  I  have  found  it  very  difficult  to  persuade  those 
who  have  made  the  inquiry,  that  such  was  not  the  case.  One  of  my 
acquaintances  entertained  Mar  Yohaunan,  in  America,  with  exper- 
iments in  gilding,  by  the  new  electro-magnetic  process.  He  intro- 
duced a  silver  watch,  presented  to  the  bishop  by  friends  in  this  coun- 
try, into  an  opake  liquid  mixture;  and  after  some  time,  on  taking 
out  the  watch,  lo,  it  was  gold  !  The  bishop  stared,  a  few  moments, 
delighted  and  amazed,  without  saying  a  word  ;  at  length,  he  thus 


FBEE  MASONRY  SEVEN  HEAVENS. 


297 


gave  utterance  to  his  emotions  ;  "  You  make  chemie,  (the  term  by 
which  the  Persians  denominate  alchemy);  the  people  in  our  coun- 
try say,  the  Englisli  can  make  chemie.;  before  I  did  not  beheve;  but 
it  is  true  ;  you  do  make  chemie."  He  soon  understood  it,  however, 
as  a  superinducing,  rather  than  a  transmuting  process. 

Freemasonry  is  another  secret  which  a  Persian  noble  one  day  sug- 
gested, as  probably  having  some  connexion  with  the  electrical  ma- 
chine. Firmoosh-khdnd — liouse.  of  forgetfulness — is  the  term  used 
by  the  Persians  to  designate  it,  which  was,  doubtless,  adopted  from 
the  mere  resemblance  of  sound.  1  know  not  how  often  I  have  been 
questioned  in  relation  to  freemasonry;  but  was  fortunately  able  to 
plead  happy  ignorance  on  the  whole  subject.  It  is  in  even  worse 
repute  among  Asiatics  than  among  patriotic  anti-masons  in  Ameri- 
ca. They  conceive  of  it  as  the  quintessence  of  skepticism,  infidelity 
and  atheism  and  every  other  evil  genius.  In  the  Levant,  the  climax 
of  opprobrious  epithets  is  often  capped  with  phramazon — freemason. 
A  man  who  will  quietly  bear  to  be  called  a  donkey,  a  dog,  a  swine 
or  a  devil,  will  regard  it  as  wholly  unendurable  to  be  called  a  phra- 
mazon. 

It  is  often  amusing  to  observe  with  what  industry  the  Persians 
study  to  confirm  their  theories  by  seeking  to  recognize  analogies  in 
our  own.  On  observing  our  orrery,  in  one  instance,  a  sage  Mool- 
lah  counted  off  the  seven  planets,  as  they  were  represented  on  it  in 
succession,  and  complacently  stroking  his  beard,  pronounced  them 
the  "  seven  heavens"  of  Muhammed,  and  congratulated  us  on  the 
accuracy  of  our  system.  Secular  light  is,  however,  gradually  dissi- 
pating their  darkness  and  preparing  the  way  for  their  spiritual  illu- 
mination. 

Dec.  1.  We  set  apart  to-day  as  a  season  of  Thanksgiving.  Our 
mercies  and  deliverances  have  been  so  great,  during  the  past  year, 
as  in  our  view  to  call  for  special  acknowledgement  to  God.  I 
preached  from  Ps.  50:  14,  "Offer  unto  God  thanksgiving."  At 
our  religious  service  and  at  supper  were  a  bishop  and  a  deacon  from 
GSog-tapa,  and  the  Nestorians  connected  with  our  families.  In  the 
evening,  we  amused  our  company  with  an  exhibition  of  the  electri- 
cal machine.  They  were  no  less  entertained  and  astonished  by  it 
than  were  the  Muhammedans  at  the  wedding. 

Dec.  6.  We  invited  several  Nestorians  with  their  families  to 
dine  with  us.  Husbands  and  wives  sat  down  at  the  table  together, 
— a  privilege  which  the  poor  females  had  never  before  enjoyed. 
Both  seemed  equally  gratified  with  the  arrangement.  The  exam- 
ple of  our  own  families  will  prove  more  eflfectual  than  any  other  hu- 
man instrumentality,  to  raise  the  females  to  a  proper  rank  among 
the  natives;  and  this  is  an  important  reason,  among  other  and  still 
stronger  ones,  why  missionaries  should  in  general  have  families. 

Dec.  11.  This  evening,  priest  Dunka,  our  translator  from  the 
mountains,  commenced  studying  Hebrew.  Dunka,  his  name,  is 
the  Svriac  term  for  East, — a  word  to  which  the  Nestoriana  are  sin- 

38 


298 


STUDY  OF  HEBREW  LOVE  OF  MONEY. 


gularly  attached,  both  as  a  name  and  as  a  title.  They  call  Mar 
Shimon,  Patridrka  d'M^dunka,  Patriarch  of  the  East ;  and  Christ, 
they  say,  will  come  to  judgment  from  the  east.  Priest  D.  has  been 
importuning  me,  for  several  months,  to  teach  him  Hebrew,  but 
want  of  time  and  ill  health  liave  until  now  prevented  my  attempting 
it.  A  half  hour  thus  spent,  in  the  course  of  a  long  winter  evening, 
is  pleasant  to  me  and  will,  I  trust,  be  beneficial  to  him  and  to  our 
mission.  This  priest  is  naturally  a  fine  scholar,  and  as  the  Hebrew 
much  resembles  the  Syriac,  it  will  cost  him  but  little  eflfort  to  ac- 
quire it;  and  a  knowledge  of  it  may  prove  invaluable  in  his  qualifi- 
cations as  a  translator. 

Dec.  12.  Priest  Yohannan,  the  teacher  of  our  seminary,  re- 
quested permission  to  spend  his  evenings  in  studying  Hebrew  with 
priest  Dunka.  I  could  not  refuse  him  the  privilege,  as  he  labors 
hard  in  the  school,  during  the  day,  and  I  hope  he  also  may  be  aided 
by  this  exercise  to  a  better  understanding  of  the  Scriptures.  Our 
fine  Nestorian  boy,  John,  also  preferred  his  request  to  join  the  He- 
brew class,  but  I  advised  him  to  defer  Hebrew  until  he  shall  have 
advanced  farther  in  English. 

Dec,  15.  We  have  recently  introduced  the  practice  of  reciting 
verses  of  Scripture  in  our  family,  at  our  meals.  This  recital  is  now 
generally  made  in  four  different  languages ;  in  the  ancient  Syriac 
by  myself ;  in  the  modern  Syriac,  i.  e.  the  Nestorian  dialect,  by 
Mrs.  Perkins;  in  Hebrew,  by  priests  Dunka  and  Yohannan;  and 
in  English,  by  priest  Abraham  and  John.  In  addition  to  the  agree- 
able intellectual  exercise  thus  afforded,  as  we  are  all  learners  in 
these  respective  languages,  the  Scripture  recited  always  presents 
matter  for  practical  conversation  and  reflection. 

Dec.  16.  As  priest  Abraham  and  John  were  reciting  geography 
to  me,  this  evening,  the  idea  was  suggested  that  in  difTerent  coun- 
tries, people  worship  difierent  gods, — in  some  countries,  the  true 
God  ;  but  in  others,  the  sun,  moon,  stars  and  inferior  objects.  To 
make  the  point  a  practical  one,  I  inquired  of  priest  Abraham  what 
the  people  in  Persia  worship,  and  he  quickly  answered,  "Mammo- 
na,"  Mammon,  which  is  the  Syriac  word  for  wealth.  There  is  no 
less  truth  than  shrewdness  in  this  answer,  when  applied  to  the 
Persians.  The  most  stupid  among  them,  from  whose  appearance 
one  would  suppose  that  their  lives  amount  to  little  more  than  a  veg- 
etable existence,  are  electrified  at  the  mention  of  money.  And  the 
endless  intrigues  and  crimes,  practised  by  all  classes,  to  obtain  the 
smallest  sum,  are  often  as  ridiculous  as  they  are  appalling.  The 
Persians  never  pay  their  honest  debts  without  the  most  grudging 
and  tardy  reluctance.  It  is  a  common  proverb  among  themselves, 
that  if  a  Persian  once  secures  a  mm-s/idhi,  a  half  shahi,  equivalent 
to  three-fourth?  of  a  cent,  in  his  hand,  he  will  sooner  allow  his  hand 
to  be  severed  from  his  arm  than  relax  his  hold  of  the  money.  In 
Persia,  most  literally  and  emphatically,  is  the  love  of  money  the 
root  of  all  evil. 


SUFFEEINGS  OF  THE  JEWS  FALSEHOOD. 


299 


Dtc.  17.  We  received  a  visit  from  a  Jewish  physician  of  high 
repute  among  all  classes  of  the  natives.  He  made  a  bitter  codiplaiut 
of  the  oppressions  which  his  people  are  suffering  from  the  Muham- 
medans.  '  Two  nights  ago,'  said  he,  'some  Moslem  ruftians  went  into 
the  house  of  one  of  our  people  and  ordered  him  to  bring  out  wine. 
The  Jevv  went  out  and  declared  to  them  that  he  had  no  wine ;  and 
the  ruffians,  enraged  at  the  disappointment,  killed  hiin  on  the  spot.' 
Lartre  numbers  of  the  Jews,  the  physician  continued,  have  tried  in 
vain  to  induce  the  governor  to  apprehend  and  punish  the  murderers. 
This  statement  accords  entirely  with  other  instances  of  outrageous 
oppression,  which  the  poor  descendants  of  Israel  suffer  here  from 
their  Muhammedan  masters.  The  Dr.  concluded  his  sad  tale,  by 
remarking,  that  if  the  Messiah  does  not  appear  soon,  he  feared  their 
nation  would  be  exterminated.  To  my  inquiry  when  he  expected 
the  Messiah  would  appear,  he  replied,  that  each  of  the  six  days  of 
creation  is  the  emblem  of  a  thousand  years ;  that  four  hundred  of 
the  sixth  thousand  years  now  remain ;  that  the  seventh  day  is  the 
emblem  of  a  seventh  thousand  years,  at  the  commencement  of  which 
period  the  Messiah  is  to  come  and  during  which  he  is  to  reign  ;  ac- 
cordingly, four  hundred  years  remain  before  his  advent.  I  told  him 
that  if  the  Jews  must  wait  four  hundred  years  longer  for  the  Mes- 
siah, under  their  present  oppressions  and  persecutions,  I  thought 
he  had  serious  reason  to  apprehend  their  extinction.  'O,'  said  he, 
'  four  hundred  years  is  the  utmost  limit.  We  expect  the  Messiah 
soon;  he  may  come,  this  year  or  this  day.' 

Common  sufferers  as  the  Nestorians  and  the  Jews  are  from  their 
oppressive  Muhammedan  masters,  we  should  suppose  that  they 
would  compassionate  each  other's  condition.  But  the  fact  is  far 
otherwise.  The  Nestorians  detest  the  Jews  as  cordially  as  the 
Muhammedans  can  hate  both  Jews  and  Nestorians.  They  will 
never  eat  any  article  of  food  prepared  by  a  Jew  and  will  hardly  en- 
ter a  Jewish  dwelling.  And  whenever  an  Israelite  suffers  oppres- 
sion from  the  Moslems,  the  Nestorians  exult  in  his  sufferings.  They 
affect  to  do  this  from  religious  principle,  because  the  Jews  were  the 
murderers  of  our  Saviour. 

Dec.  18.  The  subject  which  I  presented  in  our  Nestorian  ser- 
vice, to-day,  was  the  sin  of  lying.  Our  large  school-room  was  nearly 
filled,  with  attentive  listeners.  Lying  prevails  to  such  an  extent 
among  all  classes  of  the  Nestorians — most  of  the  ecclesiastics  not 
excepted — as  well  as  among  the  Muhammedans,  that  this  subject  is 
a  very  practical  one.  According  to  Mar  Yohannan's  statement  of 
the  case,  which  seems  also  to  be  a  proverb,  people  in  Persia  lie,  as 
long  as  they  can  find  lies  to  tell,  after  which  they  may,  from  acci- 
dent or  necessity,  for  once  or  twice,  speak  the  truth.  I  have  just 
prepared  a  small  tract  on  lying,  in  the  Nestorian  dialect,  intended 
for  our  schools  and  general  circulation.  It  meets  with  a  very 
ready  acceptance.  It  is  composed  mainly  of  quotations  from  Scrip- 
ture ;  which  of  course  cannot  present  a  pretext  for  opposition  from 


300 


SCHOOL  OF  A  PERSIAN  PRINCE. 


nominal  Christians.  The  practice  of  lying,  moreover,  is  condem- 
ned in  theory  by  the  Nestorians,  and  reformation  of  this  and  kindred 
vices  can  be  urged  with  much  greater  plainness  and  less  liability  to 
offend,  than  on  subjects  that  might  be  so  construed  as  to  appear 
sectarian. 

Dec.  23.  A  letter  reached  us,  to-day,  from  Mar  Shimon.  It 
was  brought  by  his  younger  brother  and  designated  successor,  who 
is  now  visiting  the  churches  of  Oroomiah,  to  recieve  their  annua] 
contribution  for  the  Patriarch.  J  give  the  reader  an  extract  from 
the  letter,  relating  to  our  operations  among  his  people. 

"  And  furthermore,  behold,  our  joy  has  been  great,  very  great, 
on  your  account,  from  the  day  we  heard  of  your  entering  Oroomiah, 
for  the  purpose  of  opening  schools,  that  work  of  benevolence,  in 
which  you  labor  and  toil,  from  your  love  to  the  kingdom  of  Christ. 
May  God  give  you  the  strength  and  assistance  of  his  own  might. 
And  may  the  Lord,  our  Lord,  be  with  you,  in  all  the  labors  of  love 
in  which  you  engage.  And  your  reward,  your  happiness,  your 
bliss  and  your  glory,  you  will  receive  in  the  kingdom  of  heaven, 
Amen." 

However  much  or  little  of  sincerity  there  may  be  in  these  pro- 
fessions of  the  high  Nestorian  prelate,  it  is  our  duty  no  less  than 
our  privilege  to  hope  for  the  best,  thankfully  recognize  the  friendli- 
ness expressed  and  manifested,  enter  the  door  of  faith  thus  set  open 
to  these  gentiles,  and  do  with  our  might  what  our  hands  find  to  do, 
for  their  instruction  and  salvation. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

JOURNAL:  JANUARY— JUNE,  1837. 

A  MESSENGER  brought  us  a  letter,  Jan.  7,  from  Maiek  Kasem 
Meerza,  in  which  the  prince  states,  that  he  has  opened  a  school,  at 
his  residence  in  Sheeshawan,  a  village  about  eighty  miles  distant 
from  Oroomiah,  and  he  requests  of  us  aid  in  furnishing  school- 
books  and  other  apparatus.  This  is  the  prince  who  visited  our 
seminary,  last  autumn,  and  his  commencement  of  this  school  is  prob- 
ably the  result  of  that  visit.  His  Highness  has  placed  at  the  head 
of  his  institution  an  Armenian  deacon,  who  was  educated  in  India, 
speaks  our  language  and  is  quite  evangelical  in  his  religious  views 
and  feelings.  The  deacon  also  wrote  us,  requesting  books,  particu- 
larly the  christian  Scriptures,  which,  he  says,  he  can  readily  place 
in  the  hands  of  young  Muhammedans. 

Jan.  10.    The  brother  of  the  Patriarch,  who  is  his  designated 


A  CLERICAL  PARTY  PAPAL  BISHOP. 


301 


successor,  dined  with  me.  Five  bishops  were  in  company  with 
him  ;  Mar  Gabriel,  Mar  Elias,  Mar  Sleeva  from  the  mountains,  and 
the  two  who  reside  in  our  families.  With  the  three  priests  and 
several  deacons  connected  with  us,  they  constituted  quite  a  clerical 
party.  At  evening  they  all  took  tea  with  us,  and  afterward,  attend- 
ed our  Bible  class.  The  lesson  was  the  last  part  of  the  fifth  chap- 
ter of  Matthew.  I  dwelt  particularly  on  the  sin  of  profaneness,  as 
there  presented, — a  sin  so  fearfully  prevalent  even  among  the  ecclesi- 
astics of  this  people. 

Jan.  22.  The  brother  of  the  Patriarch  and  the  five  bishops  were 
present  at  our  Sabbath  worship.  Many  others,  besides  the  mem- 
bers of  our  seminary,  were  also  at  meeting,  and  I  never  addressed 
a  more  attentive  audience.  In  the  evening,  priest  Abraham  told 
me  that  the  Patriarch's  brother  expressed  himself  highly  gratified 
with  the  simplicity  of  the  forms  of  our  worship  and  the  matter  of 
my  discourse.  The  priests  who  reside  with  us  often  express  their 
admiration  of  what  they  term  our  resemblance  to  the  apostles  in  our 
religious  services;  though  no  "  bishop's"  hands  in  the  high  church 
sense  of  that  term,  have  ever  been  upon  us. 

Jan.  23.  In  the  morning,  I  entertained  our  Nestorian  guests 
with  my  microscope  and  some  other  wonders  from  the  New  World, 
after  which  they  took  their  leave,  apparently  much  gratified  with 
their  visit. 

Feb.  13.  By  invitation,  we  visited  Malek  Mansoor  Meerza,  a 
prince  who  resides  in  this  city,  a  son  of  the  former  king.  Like  his 
brother  who  has  opened  the  school,  he  appears  to  be  desirous  of 
European  knowledge.  He  is  a  man  of  good  natural  abilities  and 
considerable  information  for  a  Persian,  but  labors  under  the  embar- 
rassing impediment  of  a  consummate  sia»J»icrer.  Mar  Joseph,  who 
was  with  us,  pronounced  this  blemish  an  important  providential  fa- 
vor. But  for  this  stammering,  said  the  bishop,  royal  jealousy  might 
long  since  have  deprived  him  of  his  eyes  or  his  head. 

Feb.  15.  Prince  Malek  Mansoor  Meerza  returned  our  visit. 
He  was  highly  entertained  with  our  electrical  machine,  globes  and 
other  articles  of  school  apparatus;  and  a  stove  he  politely  begged, 
in  the  Persian  manner,  by  requesting  us  to  order  one  like  it  for  him 
to  purchase. 

Feb.  17.  We  again  received  letters  from  the  prince  at  Sheesha- 
wan  and  his  Armenian  teacher.  Their  school  is  evidently  a  door 
set  open  by  the  hand  of  Providence,  and  we  dare  not  wholly  disre- 
gard their  application  for  help.  So  much  have  we  on  our  own  hands 
at  Oroomiah,  however,  that  we  can  attempt  to  do  very  little  else- 
where. 

Feb.  23.  A  Papal  bishop  from  Salmas  who  was  sent  from  that 
village  to  Rome  and  educated,  has  come  among  the  Nestorians  of 
this  province  to  gain  proselytes.  He  makes  proclamation,  that  he 
has  received,  or  is  about  to  receive,  twenty-five  thousand  dollars 
from  Rome  to  educate  and  aid  such  of  the  Nestorians  as  shall  be 


302 


C0NTR0VEK3Y  UMPIRE. 


inclined  to  attach  themselves  to  the  Papal  cause.  He  has  taken 
lodgings  in  a  secluded  corner  of  the  city,  occupied  by  a  few  Nesto- 
rian  families,  whom  he  is  worrying  with  his  importunity.  A  dele- 
gation came  from  those  Nestorians,  to  Mar  Yohannan,  to-day,  rep- 
resenting that  the  Catholic  emissary  was  pressing  them  hard  to  re- 
nounce the  Nestorian  and  etnbrace  the  Papal  faith ;  and  that  they 
are  themselves  ignorant — unable  to  discuss  with  him  and  in  an 
embarrassed  condition  ;  and  they  desired  the  bishop  and  our  priests 
to  go  over  and  silence  the  disturber.  To-morrow,  therefore,  our 
ecclesiastics  are  to  meet  the  Catholic  bishop  on  the  arena  of  con- 
troversy. They  requested  me,  this  evening,  to  assist  them  in  look- 
ing out  proof-texts  from  the  Scriptures  against  image-worship  and 
other  corrupt  doctrines  and  practices  of  Rome,  which  I  was  of 
course  very  happy  to  do.  I  reminded  them  that  their  antagonist 
would  not  probably  abide  by  the  Scriptures.  They  were  fully  aware 
of  that,  they  replied;  but  the  moment  he  should  refuse  to  acknow- 
ledge the  authority  of  Scripture,  they  would  have  no  more  to  say  to 
him,  and  would  have  no  farther  occasion  for  discussion,  as  their 
people  would  be  satisfied,  from  the  fact  of  his  rejecting  the  Bible, 
that  his  system  is  a  false  one.  This  is  certainly  quite  a  Protestant 
view  of  the  subject. 

Feb.  2i.  Our  Nestorian  ecclesiastics  informed  me,  that  they 
sat  up  very  late  last  night  after  they  retired  to  their  rooms,  adding 
still  to  their  proof-texts,  and  they  were  equally  surprised  and  de- 
lighted to  find  the  Bible  so  full  against  many  things  taught  and 
practised  by  the  church  of  Rome.  About  noon  Mar  Yohannan, 
priest  Abraham  and  priest  Dunka,  set  off  for  their  theological  en- 
counter. The  Papist,  finding  his  way  at  the  outset  thickly  hedged 
up  by  their  proof-texis,  angrily  shuffled  the  New  Testament  with 
his  fingers  and  threw  it  aside.  The  Nestorians  urged  this  rejection 
of  the  gospel  as  an  acknowledged  defeat;  upon  which  the  Catholic 
bishop  solemnly  averred  his  adherence  to  the  whole  Bible.  After 
some  discussion,  they  mutually  agreed  that  an  umpire  was  needed, 
who  should  sit  in  judgment  on  the  merits  of  their  respective  argu- 
ments, as  drawn  from  the  Scriptures.  And  as  such  an  umpire 
must  be  of  a  third  party,  they  selected  the  chief  Moollah  of  the  city, 
and  went  immediately  before  that  venerable  personage.  When  the 
doctrines  and  practices  of  the  two  sects  were  stated  to  the  Muham- 
medan  doctor,  he  became  quite  enraged  towards  the  Papist — called 
him  a  heathen,  and  told  him  in  terrorem  ihat.  such  a  blasphemer  and 
idolater  ought  not  to  live.  The  comparative  purity  and  simplicity 
of  the  Nestorian  belief,  on  the  contrary,  drew  from  him  considera- 
ble commendation.  The  Papal  bishop  was  much  disconcerted,  by 
the  decision  of  the  umpire,  and  urged  that  he  had  been  taken  by 
surprise,  could  not  at  the  time  find  the  scripture  passages  that  would 
prove  his  doctrine,  and  requested  that  the  formal  decision  might  be 
postponed  until  evening.  The  Moollah  granted  his  request.  At 
evening,  the  parties  assembled,  but  the  Papist  begged  that  the  mat- 


RESULT  STYLE  OF  CONTROVERSY  LUTRAN.  303 


ter  might  be  deferred  until  the  next  morning;  and  his  request  was 
again  granted. 

Feb.  25.  This  morning,  our  Nestorian  ecclesiastics  exultingly 
told  me,  that  the  Papal  bishop  had  absconded  in  the  course  of  the 
night,  being  evidently  conscious  of  his  inability  to  sustain  his  cause 
before  the  Moollah.  It  is  particularly  gratifying  to  see  the  Nesto- 
rians  cling  to  the  Bible,  in  their  controversy  with  Papists.  They 
have  able  works,  they  say,  in  the  ancient  Syriac,  against  Romanism  ; 
but  they  prefer  the  "  word  of  God,"  which,  as  they  often  repeat,  "  is 
the  sicord  of  the  Spirit."  Their  attachment  to  the  Scriptures  has 
evidently  been  much  quickened,  in  their  late  discussion,  particular- 
ly, as  they  have  witnessed  new  demonstrations  of  the  low  estimate 
in  which  the  Papists  hold  the  word  of  God.  "  The  Bible !"  said 
the  Catholic  bishop,  "  what  is  it  1  Ink  and  paper  ;  nothing  more  ; 
our  images  are  much  more  substantial."  Religious  controversy, 
as  conducted  between  the  Nestorians  and  the  Papists,  would  seem 
rather  rough  and  vituperative  in  America;  but  it  is  perhaps  about 
as  good  as  any  kind  with  which  Romanists  in  Asia  can  be  encoun- 
tered. The  Papal  bishop  in  this  case  went,  for  instance,  to  an  in- 
fluential Nestorian  and  said,  "  Turn  Catholic,  and  we  will  load  you 
with  money ;  we  can  well  afford  to  do  so ;  because  if  you  turn,  a 
multitude  will  follow  you."  What  will  calm  argument  effect,  with 
men  thus  blindly  devoted  to  their  master,  the  Pope! 

Mar  Yohannan,  on  his  return  from  the  controversy,  inquired 
with  much  interest  for  the  meaning  of  the  word  Lutrdn  (Lutheran) 
— the  term  by  which  Papists  in  the  Levant  designate  Protestants. 
The  Catholic  bishop,  he  said,  often  called  us,  Lutran,*  a  terra 
which  he  liad  never  before  heard,  but  must,  he  supposed,  be  very 
reproachful,  because  the  Papist  stated,  in  the  same  connexion,  that 
we  have  no  fixed  religion,  but  jump  from  system  to  system,  just  as 
suits  our  convenience ;  and  that  our  present  object  is  to  bring  the 
Nestorians  into  the  same  unstable  condition.  Mar  Yohannan,  sup- 
posing some  frightful  meaning  to  be  wrapped  up  in  the  term  Lu- 
tran, flatly  denied  that  we  are  Lutrdn,  and  asserted  that  we  are 
English — and  as  for  oar  religion,  he  told  the  Papist,  he  had  seen 
enough  of  us  to  satisfy  him,  that,  compared  with  the  Romish,  it 
is  like  the  light  of  noon  contrasted  with  the  darkness  of  midnight. 
We  gave  the  bishop  some  account  of  Luther,  stating  that  he  became 
obnoxious  to  the  Catholics  by  assailing  their  corruptions.  Mar 
Yohannan  was  much  interested  with  the  case  of  the  Protestant  re- 
former, and  remarked,  that  Luther  was  doubiless  very  much  such  a 
man  as  their  own  bishop  Nestorins,  who  had  also  become  a  by- 
word among  Papists,  for  opposing  their  idolatry  in  applying  to  Mary 
the  epithet,  mother  of  God. 

*  Pediap."  no  term,  unless  it  be  phramazdn^  freemason,  is  in  so  bad  odor 
among  all  the  Ea.stern  churches  except  the  Nestorians,  as  Lutrin,  having 
been  made  odious  by  the  slanders  of  Papists.  To  the  Nestorians,  the  term, 
Katoleek,  Catholic,  is  thus  obnoxious. 


304 


THEFT  A  LEARNED  PRIEST. 


March  3.  Mar  Sleeva,  a  bishop  of  the  mountains,  called  at  my 
study.  As  he  was  passing  in  the  street,  just  before  reaching  our 
house,  a  Muhammedan  rufBan  came  up  behind  him,  seized  his 
cap  from  his  head  and  ran  away  with  it.  The  bishop  started  in 
pursuit,  and  soon  met  two  men  who  manifested  an  interest  for  him 
and  inquired  where  he  was  going.  He  told  them  what  had  hap- 
pened, to  which  they  replied  that  they  knew  the  thief  who  had  taken 
the  turban,  had  just  seen  him  with  it,  and  asked  the  bishop  how 
much  he  would  give  them  to  recover  it.  The  good  old  raau  gladly 
offered  them  all  the  money  he  had,  which  was  a  single  silver  piece, 
of  the  value  of  a  quarter  of  a  dollar.  This  they  readily  accepted, 
and  with  the  servant  of  Mar  Sleeva,  started  off  in  pursuit  of  the 
robber.  The  servant  soon  returned  with  the  cap,  indeed,  but  it 
was  stripped  of  its  large  shawl,  and  everything  else  of  value.  The 
pursuers,  it  appeared,  were  companions  of  the  thief,  and  had  thus 
managed  to  divert  the  bishop  till  the  turban  was  conveyed  away, 
and  even  gull  him  of  his  last  farthing.  Thus  are  the  defenceless 
liable  to  suffer,  in  this  miserable  land.  How  different  will  be  the 
state  of  things  in  His  reign  who  shall  judge  the  poor  of  the  people, 
shall  save  the  children  of  the  needy,  and  shall  break  in  pieces  the 
oppressor.  Mar  Sleeva  is  too  poor  to  clothe  himself  decently,  he 
and  his  people  having  not  long  since  been  overrun  and  plundered 
by  the  savage  Koords.  He  therefore  felt  deeply  his  loss,  as  well  as 
the  indignity  of  the  outrage.  I  requested  one  of  our  priests  who 
was  present  to  give  the  poor  sufferer  a  cheap  shawl  from  his  own 
cap,  promising  to  procure  another  for  the  priest.  The  venerable, 
simple-hearted  man  was  deeply  affected  with  the  kindness,  and  im- 
plored many  blessings  on  me  in  return. 

March  26.  Priest  Zadoc,  the  brother  of  the  Patriarch  who  vis- 
ited us  last  year,  is  again  with  us.  He  affects  great  learning  and 
is  the  vainest  man  that  T  have  seen  among  the  Nestorians.  He 
gravely  propounded  to  me,  to-day,  several  quite  philosophic  ques- 
tions. First  he  inquired  how  many  days'  journey  it  is  from  east  to 
west.  I  told  him,  that  it  is  five  hundred  days'  journey.  People  in 
all  these  countries  reckon  distance  by  days'  journeys,  allowing  about 
tweaty  or  twenty-five  miles  to  a  day  ;  and  my  answer  had  reference 
to  the  real  horizon.  The  sapient  priest  thought  that  distance  very 
moderate  ;  but  when  I  told  him  that  I  had  myself  come  quite  two- 
thirds  of  the  way  from  west  to  east,  he  assented  to  the  probable  cor- 
rectness of  the  estimate,  as  I  had  had  the  best  of  opportunities  for 
judging.  He  next  inquired  how  much  farther  it  is  from  north  to 
south  than  from  east  to  west.  I  told  him,  that  it  is  not  quite  as  far, 
to  which  he  replied  that  the  Nestorians  think  it  much  farther.  He 
proceeded  to  inquire,  which  is  the  greatest  distance,  from  north  to 
south,  or  from  the  earth  to  the  stars.  And  when  I  told  him  how 
many  years  it  would  require  for  a  man  to  travel  to  the  moon — and 
how  much  nearer  that  is  than  any  of  the  stars — supposing  there 
were  a  good  caravan  road  on  that  route,  he  was  astonished,  as  he 


ENUMERATION  POWER  OF  EXAMPLE. 


305 


had  supposed  the  moon  to  be  much  nearer  than  the  New  World; 
for  the  (noon  he  could  often  see,  while  the  New  World  he  had  hard- 
ly heard  of,  and  much  less  ever  seen.  He  manifested  that  kind  of 
self-complacency,  at  the  wonders  which  he  liad  heard,  that  seemed 
to  say,  "  I  will  astonish  somebody  else  by  repeating  to  them  these 
things."  Not  to  be  outdone  in  wisdom,  he  next  challenged  me  in 
the  science  of  numbers,  repeating  quite  fluently  three  or  four  peri- 
ods of  an  enumeration  table  prepared  by  some  old  Syriac  writer ; 
and  at  the  close  he  looked  at  me  with  a  most  amusing  air  of  defi- 
ance. I  took  up  a  slate  and  pencil  and  wrote  a  long  line  of  figures, 
and  when  I  read  them  to  him,  he  rose  from  his  seat  in  mute  amaze- 
ment, and  went  to  one  of  my  associates  and  pronounced  me  more 
learned  than  the  ancient  fathers — declaring  that  I  had  repeated 
numbers  enough  to  count  a  sufficient  quantity  of  kernels  of  wheat 
to  fill  a  room — or  even  the  yards  of  our  houses.  When  the  reader 
is  informed  that  priest  Zadoc  is  reputed  to  be  one  of  the  most 
"  learned"  of  the  Nestorian  ecclesiastics,  he  will  not  doubt  that  they 
are  all  children  in  understanding,  at  least  in  secular  knowledge. 

April  30.  We  received  letters,  informing  us  that  our  associates, 
Messrs.  Holladuy  and  Stocking,  with  their  wives,  had  reached  Con- 
stantinople, and  requesting  that  one  of  us  should  go  as  far  as  Erz- 
room  and  meet  them. 

May  1.  Mrs.  Grant  was  seized  with  fever  and  ague,  and  her 
babe  was  precipitated  by  a  careless  boy  from  a  door  down  the  steps 
upon  a  pavement  and  seriously  injured.  These  circumstances 
seemed  to  decide  the  point  that  I  should  go  and  meet  oiir  friends,  as 
Dr.  Grant  could  not  leave  home.  I  took  with  me  a  Nestorian  dea- 
con, intending  also  to  propose  to  Mar  Yohannan  to  accompany  me, 
if  he  pleased,  both  for  his  own  gratification  and  improvement,  and 
his  society  and  assistance  on  the  road.  He  was  now  at  his  home, 
spending  the  festival  of  Easter,  but  his  village  is  directly  on  the 
route  to  Erzroom,  a  day's  journey  from  the  city. 

May  2.  A  Muhammedan  Hajee — pilgrim — visited  me,  who  is 
quite  an  intelligent,  sober  man.  In  conversation  with  him,  in  my 
study,  the  subject  of  intemperance  was  introduced.  This  evil  he 
professed  deeply  to  deplore,  as  making  rapid  inroads  among  his 
countrymen.  His  own  brother,  he  said,  had  fallen  a  victim.  Mar 
Joseph,  who  was  present,  took  up  a  scripture  tract  which  I  have 
lately  prepared,  on  intemperance,  and  read  it  aloud.  The  Hajee 
expressed  his  high  admiration  for  every  sentence  that  was  read,  and 
at  length  asked  the  bishop  from  what  book  that  paper  was  written. 
Mar  Joseph  told  him  that  every  word  of  it  was  taken  from  the  Chris- 
tian's Bible.  The  Hajee  expressed  his  astonishment  and  gladness 
to  hear  such  doctrines  from  the  holy  book  of  the  infidels,  and  point- 
edly interrogated  the  bishop,  how  it  then  happens  that  so  many 
Christians  become  brutes  by  intemperance.  Mar  Joseph  told  him 
that  it  is  because  such  Christians  do  not  live  up  to  the  requirements 
of  their  religion.  A  momentous  and  appalling  truth !  And  here  is 
39 


306  OOLAH  LECTURE  SCHOOL  AN  AUTHOR. 

the  stumbling-block  over  which  the  Muhammedan  world  is  falling- 
into  perdition, — the  nominal  Christians,  who  dwell  among  them,  do 
not  live  their  religion. 

Mny  3.  I  started  for  Erzrooni  and  rode  to  Gavnlan,  the  village 
of  Mar  Yohannan.  The  bishop  had  expected  Mrs.  Perkins  and 
myself  to  visit  his  liome,  in  the  course  of  the  passing  festival ;  and 
he  told  me,  that  the  day  before,  he  had  seated  himself  on  the  hill, 
looking  for  us,  until  long  after  sunset.  I  suggested  to  him,  soon 
after  my  arrival,  that  I  had  a  word  of  business  with  liim,  and  he 
directed  all  who  were  present  to  leave  the  room.  I  then  began  to 
state  to  him,  that  we  had  friends  on  the  road  to  join  us;  but  I  had 
not  time  to  add  that  I  had  started  to  meet  them,  when  he  anticipa- 
ted me,  and  exclaimed,  "  I'll  go  with  you,  sir;  I'll  go  with  you." 
The  arrangement  was  thus  made  for  the  bishop  to  accompany  me, 
before  I  had  time  to  submit  the  proposition. 

Mai;  4.  We  rode  six  fiirsakhs,  iicross  the  mountain-ridge  that 
separates  Oroomiah  from  Salmas,  and  put  up  for  the  night  at  the 
villao-e  of  Oolah.    The  Ne.storians  received  me,  as  well  as  their 

o  _  ... 

bishop,  with  many  demonstrations  of  joy.  Being  wearied  with  my 
journey,  after  taking  some  refreshment,  I  leaned  back  against  the 
mud-wall  of  the  humble  dwelling  in  which  we  stopped,  and  soon  fell 
asleep,  leaving  the  bishop  to  entertain  the  large  concourse  that  had 
flocked  around  to  welcome  our  arrival.  I  slept,  I  know  not  how 
long;  but  on  awaking,  1  found  the  bishop  still  speaking  to  his  peo- 
ple, and  as  I  did  not  rise  for  some  time,  not  wishing  to  disturb  them, 
I  had  the  satisfaction  of  overhearing  him  deliver  a  very  good  geo- 
graphical lecture  on  America  and  some  of  the  countries  of  Europe, 
and  give  a  very  intelligent  and  fair  exposition  of  our  missionary  ob- 
jects and  labors,  and  their  prospective  influence — the  whole  of  course 
very  general — to  the  delighted  assembly  of  eager  listeners.  This 
bishop  is  much  beloved  by  his  people  ;  and  as  I  observe  what  com- 
manding influence  he  has  among  them  and  what  power  he  possesses 
to  interest  and  benefit  them,  I  deeply  feel  the  momentous  impor- 
tance of  his  being  a  truly  converted  man. 

Oolah,  where  we  stopped,  is  a  charn>ing  village,  inhabited  by 
about  twenty-five  Nestorian  families  and  the  same  number  of  Mo- 
hammedans. Just  at  sunset,  we  went  to  the  church  to  attend  eve- 
ning prayers.  Twelve  sprightly  children  were  sitting  on  the  green 
grass,  in  front  of  it,  in  the  form  of  a  school,  engaged  in  reading  the 
Psalms.  They  are  instructed  by  the  priest  of  the  village  who  ap- 
pears to  be  a  very  good  old  man.  He  is  the  only  living  Nestorian 
author  with  whom  1  have  met,  and  he  has  perhaps  no  contemporary 
in  his  nation  in  that  high  calling.  He  has  recently  prepared  a  small 
volume  in  the  ancient  Syriac,  in  which  with  considerable  ability  he 
combats  the  Papists.  Both  the  priest  and  his  people  have  long  been 
importuning  us  to  assist  them  in  erecting  a  school-house  and  sus- 
taining a  good  school  in  this  village;  and  nothing  but  want  of  funds 
has  prevented  our  complying  with  that  request.    In  Salmas  the  Pa- 


KIIOY  CARAVANSERAIS  HOTEL. 


307 


pists  have  long  had  a  footing.  Two  bishops  now  reside  there  who 
were  educated  at  Rome,  and  have  drunk  deep  of  her  proselyting 
spirit.  We  need  a  good  school  in  the  district  as  a  barrier  against 
them.  I  lodged  in  a  room  occupied  by  the  old  priest.  Li  the  eve- 
ning, a  nu(nber  of  t}ie  villagers  catne  in,  and  the  venerable  man,  with 
truly  Protestant  simplicity,  took  a  copy  of  the  Psalms  and  familiarly 
translated  one  into  the  spoken  language,  and  afterward,  he  read  and 
translated  a  chapter  from  the  Gospels  in  the  same  manner.  All 
present  listened  with  interest;  and  it  appeared  that  the  villagers 
were  accustomed  to  resort  to  this  room  frequently  in  the  evening 
for  religious  instruction.  I  was  agreeably  surprised,  both  with  the 
practice  and  with  the  matter  and  manner  of  the  priest's  exposition 
of  Scripture.  I  am  not  aware  that  this  interesting  case  has  a  par- 
allel, beyond  the  immediate  influence  of  our  mission. 

May.  5.  We  rode  eight  fiirsakhs,  in  a  north-western  direction, 
and  reached  Khoy.  This  is  a  beautiful  walled  town — one  of  the 
finest  in  Persia — containing  about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants. 
The  valley  in  which  it  is  situated,  is  extremely  fertile,  but  unhealthy. 
We  lodged  in  the  corner  room  of  the  principal  caravanserai.  Hav- 
ing no  beds  with  us,  we  found  the  brick  pavement  rather  too  hard 
to  afford  us  very  refreshing  sleep.  Caravanserais  in  Persia  consist 
of  rows  of  arched  rooms  extending  around  an  open  court  in  the  form 
of  a  hollow  square.  In  the  cities,  they  are  built  of  burnt  brick,  and 
in  villages  usually  of  unburnt  brick,  or  in  fact,  mud,  moulded  into  the 
shape  of  brick  and  dried  in  the  sun.  They  are  used  for  the  various 
purposes  of  storing  merchandize,  lodging  travellers  and  caravans — 
the  residence  and  traffic  of  merchants  and  the  shops  of  mechanics. 
The  apartments  devoted  to  travellers  consist  of  simple,  naked  stalls, 
differing  from  those  of  the  beasts  of  burden,  if  at  all,  only  by  having 
a  brick,  or  elevated  earth,  floor. 

How  different  are  these  public  "  inns,"  in  the  dark  East, — unfin- 
ished, unlighted  and  unfurnished — where  "  the  horse  and  his  rider  " 
are  commonly  near  neighbors,  from  the  '  Mansion  Plouses'  in  Amer- 
ica. On  our  first  arrival  in  New  York,  when  I  returned  to  America, 
we  stopped  a  day  at  the  United  States  HtJtel ;  and  Mar  Yohannan 
was  perhaps  more  deeply  impressed,  that  first  day,  than  during  any 
subsequent  period  of  his  visit  in  our  country  ;  and  particularly,  with 
that  superb  caravanserai — so  entirely  removed  from  the  stables  of 
horses  and  mules — elecrantlv  finished  with  windows  and  doors,  and 
amply  supplied  with  carpets,  mirrors,  cliairs,  tables  and  soft  beds. 
That  first  day  in  America  revealed  to  the  astonished  Nestorian,  in 
far  more  senses  than  one,  a  "New  World." 

May  6.  We  rode  twelve  fursakhs,  to  the  village  of  Kara-ina, 
hlaclc  fountain.  Our  direction  was  north-west,  and  the  region  over 
which  we  passed,  after  ascending  the  mountains  west  of  the  plain  of 
Khoy,  is  made  up  of  alternate  low  ridges  and  extensive  intervening 
valleys  which  afford  excellent  pasture  grounds.  An  old  Turk  and 
his  son,  belonging  to  Erzroom,  fell  in  with  our  party,  begging  per- 


308 


BOUNDARY  KOOHDISH  VILLAGE  CHURN. 


mission,  for  their  better  security,  to  travel  in  company  with  us, 
through  the  Koordish  region.  "The  Koords,"  said  (lie  Turk,  "are 
neither  Mahammedans  nor  hijidrh,  (Christians);  they  are  brutes; 
they  rob  all  whom  they  dare  to  rob,  without  discriniiiiation."  All 
classes  of  the  natives,  in  those  wild  countries,  account  it  a  great 
privilege  to  perform  their  journeys  in  company  with  European  trav- 
ellers, as  they  are  thus  shielded,  in  some  measure,  against  Koordish 
depredation,  and  oppression  from  the  higher  classes  of  their  own 
countrymen. 

Maij  8.  We  rode  ten  fursakhs.  The  first  five  brought  us  to 
Avajik,  the  last  village  in  Persia.  This  village  ia  also  often  called 
Kiieesia,  (church,)  taking  the  name  from  an  ancient  Armenian  stone 
church,  the  walls  of  which  are  still  standing.  This  and  the  neigh- 
boring villages  were  formerly  occupied  exclusively  by  Armenians, 
who  abandoned  their  homes  during  the  Russian  invasion,  and  emi- 
grated into  Georgia.  Their  places  are  new  partially  supplied  by 
Persians,  from  Erivan,  who,  when  the  Russians  took  possession  of 
that  province,  were  glad  to  escape  proximity  to  their  new  masters, 
by  retiring  to  this  remote  district,  which  had  been  abandoned  by  the 
Armenians.  Five  fursakhs  more  carried  us  across  the  boundary  to 
the  small  Koordish  village  of  Kuzzil-dizza.  The  boundary  between 
Turkey  and  Persia  is  here  a  high  range  of  mountains,  sweeping  from 
Ararat  to  the  south-west  and  blending  with  the  general  ranges  of 
Koordistan-  It  is  probably  the  Niphates  of  the  Greeks.  On  the  top 
of  this  mountain  is  an  extensive  section  of  fine  meadow-land,  called, 
Kdzi-gool,  goose-pond,  surrounded  by  broken  rocky  ledges.  The 
traveller  always  dreads  to  pass  through  this  vale,  as  it  is  just  upon  the 
boundary,  very  secluded  and  usually  infested  with  robbers.  There 
were  now  no  Koords  encamped  in  it,  the  weather  being  still  too  cold 
to  allow  them  to  live  there  in  tents. 

The  village  in  which  we  put  up  for  the  night  is  a  small  miserable 
hamlet  of  stationary  Koords,  which  had  not  long  before  been  sack- 
ed by  their  migratory  neighbors.  We  selected  the  largest  and  best 
subterranean  hovel  in  the  place,  but  were  there  obliged  to  lodge  in 
the  same  room  with  the  master  of  the  house  and  his  wife  and  chil- 
dren. The  free,  social  hitercourse  between  the  sexes,  amohg  the 
Koords,  impresses  the  traveller,  at  once  as  he  goes  among  them,  with 
the  superior  virtue  of  their  females  to  that  of  the  dissolute  Persians. 

Apprehension  of  a  formidable  attack  from  vermin,  forbade  me  to 
divest  myself  of  any  of  my  clothing.  I  simply  sat  down  upon  a  rush 
mat,  leaned  against  the  mud-wall  and  thus  went  to  sleep.  Sad  ex- 
perience soon  taught  me,  however,  that  all  my  clothes  closely  but- 
toned were  but  an  ineffectual  covert  against  the  little  marauders, 
which  proved  to  be  far  more  annoying  to  us  than  the  dreaded  Koords. 
But  to  the  praise  of  our  host,  he  treated  us  in  the  kindest  manner  in 
his  power.  Among  the  rude  implements  of  the  dairy,  in  this  Koord- 
ish dwelling,  I  noticed  particularly  the  churn.  It  consisted  of  a  large 
goat-skin,  apparently  entire,  suspended  from  the  roof  by  a  rope. 


MILK  MT.  ARABAT  ASCENT  LAVA. 


309 


This  skin  is  filled  with  milk  and  rapidly  swung  by  ropes  attached 
to  it  and  plied  by  children  standing  on  opposite  sides,  until  the  but- 
ter is  separated.  This  is  the  method  of  churning  common  among 
the  Koords  and  the  mountain  Nestorians.  The  people  of  Oroomiah 
use  a  deep  earthern  jar  as  a  churn.  They  fill  the  vessel  with  milk, 
bind  a  piece  of  skin  over  the  top,  lay  it  upon  a  stone  or  other  ful- 
crum near  the  middle,  and  by  a  handle  on  the  jar  for  the  purpose, 
balance  the  ends  up  and  down.  Asiatics  do  not  first  separate  the 
cream,  but  always  churn  the  milk  itself.  The  milk  of  the  sheep, 
which  is  very  rich,  is  most  prized  by  them  ;  next,  that  of  the  goat, — 
then,  of  the  buffalo,  and  last,  of  the  cow.  Our  feelings  may  perhaps 
revolt  at  the  idea  of  using  tlie  lailk  of  the  sheep.  But  what  more 
harmless  and  cleanly  animal,  in  all  the  quadruped  race  than  the 
sheep  ? 

At  Kiiz7.i]-dizza  we  were  very  near  the  base  of  Mt  Ararat.  I 
had  three  times  before  passed  this  venerable  mountain,  but  liad  never 
felt  so  strong  a  desire  to  ascend  it  as  in  this  instance.  The  earli- 
ness  of  the  season,  if  there  were  no  other  obstacle,  would  now  have 
forbidden  the  attempt.  The  snow  extended  almost  to  its  base.  In 
August  and  September,  it  covers  only  about  one  third  of  the  moun- 
tain ;  and  an  adventurer  might  then  reach  the  limits  of  snow  in  one 
day,  lodge  there  at  night,  and  advance  as  far  as  it  is  ever  practicable 
and  reach  the  same  lodging-place  on  his  return,  on  the  following 
day.  Both  Armenians  and  Muhamraedans — and  I  may  add,  most 
Europeans,  who  have  travelled  in  that  region  and  are  acquainted 
with  the  subject — pronounce  it  impossible  to  reach  the  lop  of  Mt. 
Ararat.  They  state  that  the  accumulated  masses  of  snow  and  ice 
are  not  only  steep  and  even  perpendicular,  but  actually  project  more 
or  less  for  some  distance.  They  discard  the  pretensions  of  Profes- 
sor Parrott  to  the  honor  of  having  planted  his  feet  upon  the  summit. 
And  were  not  the  learned  Professor  reported  to  be  a  man  of  veracity, 
I  should  feel  constrained  to  mingle  my  voice  with  the  tones  of  gen- 
eral doubt.  As  it  is,  I  wait  for  better  evidence.  The  ascent,  if  ever 
practicable,  would  be  easiest  on  the  north-western  side,  which  is  in 
general  less  steep  by  far  than  the  others. 

The  impressive  sublimity  of  Mt.  Ararat  increases,  (in  my  case  at 
least,)  rather  than  diminishes,  by  familiarity.  The  road  by  the  town 
of  Bayazeed,  which  is  the  post-route,  and  which  I  followed  on  my 
former  tour,  carries  the  traveller  still  nearer  the  base  of  the  mountain. 
The  country  on  the  western  side,  as  well  as  Ararat  itself,  presents 
striking  indications  of  having  felt  the  former  action  of  volcanoes. 
Over  a  region  of  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  the  surface  of  the  ground 
is  thickly  strewn  with  loose  stones,  weighing  from  one  to  ten  or 
twenty  pounds,  which  give  indubitable  signs  of  having  been  in  a 
state  of  partial  fusion — are  hard  as  flint,  but  porous,  and  are  in  fact 
genuine  lava.  Occasional  ridges  of  the  same  formation,  occur  also 
on  various  parts  of  the  plain.  And  the  fact  that  the  frequent  earth- 
quakes, wliich  shake  these  regions,  seem  to  have  their  centre  in  Mt. 
Ararat,  confirms  the  idea  of  its  volcanic  origin. 


310       GENOESE  FORTRESSES  CONVENT  TIMOURLANE. 


Majj  9.  We  changed  our  direction  to  west  and  rode  eiaht  ftr- 
sakhs,  to  Utch-kiieesia,  the  Armenian  convent.  At  Diadeen,  which 
is  five  fursalchs  west  of  Kiizzil-dizza,  we  canie  upon  the  eastern 
branch  of  the  Euphrates.  It  is  a  larger  and  more  rapid  stream  than 
the  western  branch,  where  we  crossed  tiie  latter  near  Erzrooni.  It  is 
called  by  the  natives,  Murdd-chni,  river  of  Murad.  Diadeen  is  a 
Koordish  town  of  considerable  size,  having  a  fortress  which  is  one 
of  those  built  by  the  adventurous  Genoese,  in  their  prosperous  days, 
on  the  route  between  Trobizond  and  Persia,  to  protect  their  trade 
with  the  East.  Six  or  eight  of  these  fortresses  still  remain,  on  this 
route,  in  a  state  of  partial  preservation.  The  conunerce  of  the  Ge- 
noese with  those  remote  regions,  mnst  have  been  immense  and  lu- 
crative, to  enable  them  to  rear  and  sustain  such  a  line  of  fortifica- 
tions through  wild,  inhospitable  territories,  and  at  the  same  time  en- 
rich their  republic. 

The  convent,  where  we  passed  the  night,  is  in  a  desolate  state, 
the  Armenians  of  that  region  who  once  contributed  to  its  support, 
having  followed  the  Russians  into  Georgia.  There  are  now  only 
three  resident  vartabeds  and  the  same  number  of  priests.  The 
church  is  an  immense  building  of  freestone — one  of  the  largest 
chLirches  in  the  Armenian  nation;  and  the  workmanship  is  very 
fine.  It  is  also  very  old,  having  been  originally  built,  as  the  monks 
state,  fourteen  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  It  is  only  for  the  sake 
of  preserving  that  venerable  structure,  that  it  continues,  in  so  inhos- 
pitable a  region,  to  be  occupied  as  a  convent.  A  small  Armenian 
village  is  all  that  now  remains  connected  with  it,  and  the  lawless 
Koords  sometimes  strip  both  the  village  and  the  convent  of  almost 
everything  but  the  walls,  though  the  Turkish  government  extends 
to  it  a  measure  of  protection.  The  inmates  of  the  convent  received 
us  with  much  hospitality.  On  expressing  their  regret  that  they  had 
neither  wine  nor  rum  to  treat  ns.  Mar  Yohannan  assured  them,  that 
we  wished  for  none  ;  and  the  door  being  thus  opened,  he  proceeded 
to  give  them  a  very  appropriate  temperance  lecture.  The  monks 
appeared  much  pleased  with  the  agreeable  manners  and  conversation 
of  the  Nestorian  prelate;  and  I  was  myself,  as  is  often  the  case, 
deeply  interested  to  observe  what  attractive  powers  he  possesses. 
Wherever  we  stop,  crowds  flock  around  him,  and  listen  to  his  voice, 
almost  as  to  an  oracle. 

May  10.  We  continued  our  course  on  the  banks  of  the  Euphra- 
tes, rode  eight  fQrsakhs  and  reached  Kara-kilecm,  black  church. 
This  Armenian  village  receives  it  name,  as  tradition  says,  from  the 
fact  that  Timourlane,  ( Ti/«dur-Ze?7^:,*)  in  his  career  of  devastation, 

■■'  Lr.iil:,  ill  PtTsian,  means /rt/;;c — an  epithet  given  to  Timour,  because  he  wag 
a  cripple  The  Porsiaiis  relate,  tiinlon  arriving'  in  India,  a  blind  bard  appear- 
ed l)ef'ore  the  pniuiuernr,  wlio  asked  him  his  name  and  he  replied,  DouUh — 
forluni:.  Said  Timour,  I  did  not  know  before  tiiat  fortune  was  blind-  She 
imi.it  bo,  replied  the  hard,  or  she  would  never  iiavo  souglit  a  home  in  a  cripple. 
The  ciinqucror  waw  sn  iritie.ti  gratified  with  the  compliment,  that  he  lavished 
upon  the  bard  a  pecuniary /t^rtwrjc. 


DISCUSSION — YEZIDEES. 


311 


blew  up  an  old  stone  church  there  with  a  species  of  gun-powder. 
A  part  of  that  ancient  fabric  is  said  to  form  the  base  of  the  present 
church  of  the  vilhige.  In  the  evening,  an  Armenian  priest  came  to 
our  lodgings,  and  feJI  into  conversation  with  Mar  Yohannaii.  Pass- 
ing from  topic  to  topic,  they  came  at  length  upon  image-worship  in 
churches.  The  priest  argued  in  support  of  it  as  practised  by  his  na- 
tion, Avhile  the  Nestorian  bishop  got  the  better  of  him,  reprobating 
the  practice  with  much  clearness  and  feeling.  It  is  interesting  to 
notice  how  tvangalical  are  the  bishop's  views  and  feelings,  on  all 
the  subjects  thus  incidentally  introduced.  A  multitude  of  the  vil- 
lagers here,  as  at  our  other  stopping-places,  gathered  around  him, 
with  whom  he  "  literally  reasoned  of  temperance,  righteousness  and 
a  judgment  to  come."  He  has  the  theory  of  religion  quite  clearly 
in  his  head;  may  he  also  have  it  experimentally  in  his  heart. 

We  passed,  to-day,  a  large  tribe  of  Koords,  encamped  on  the 
banks  of  the  Euphrates.    They  are  th&  Srjpokees,  who  are  all  Yezi- 
dees,  the  reputed  worshippers  of  the  devil.    An  individual  from  this 
tribe  was  one  of  the  bishop's  audience  this  evening.    The  Yezidees 
are  somewhat  numerous,  but  they  all  speak  the  Koordish  language 
and  appear  not  to  differ  much  in  character  from  other  Koords.  They 
cannot  with  strict  propriety  be  called  worshippers  of  the  devil.  As 
nearly  as  I  am  able  to  ascertain,  they  regard  the  devil  as  a  malig- 
nant being,  but  high  in  rank  and  the  prime  minister  of  the  divine 
displeasure.    They  call  him,  Mdik  Tdoos  [mighty  angel ;)  and  re- 
garding such  to  be  his  rank  and  influence,  they  deem  it,  at  least, 
good  policy  for  them  to  conciliate  his  favor.    According  to  a  cer- 
tain proverb,  they  would  treat  even  the  devil  well,  not  knowing  into 
whose  hands  they  may  fall.    Accordingly,  while  they  profess  ado- 
ration for  the  one  true  God,  and  much  respect  for  Christ,  as  his 
messenger,  and  higher  reverence  still  for  Muhammed,  as  the  great- 
est of  prophets,  they  are  deeply  solicitous  to  keep  on  friendly  terms 
with  his  Satanic  highness  and  very  careful  to  do  and  say  nothing 
to  displease  him.    When  one  of  another  nation  pronounces  the 
word,  Satan,  in  their  presence,  they  are  distressed  and  offended 
by  it,  supposing  that  others,  whenever  they  allude  to  the  devil  at 
all,  do  it  always  with  disrespect.    Not  being  fully  aware  of  their 
sensitiveness,  I  inquired,  this  evening,  of  the  Yezidee  who  was 
present,  in  what  estimation  his  people  hold  the  Evil  one,  wishing 
merely  to  elicit  information.    But  he  manifested  such  indications 
of  annoyance  and  kitidling  auger,  that  I  desisted  from  questioning 
him,  and  endeavored  to  obtain  some  facts  on  the  subject  from  the 
Armenians  of  the  village.    The  secrets  of  the  religious  system  of 
the  Yezidees  are,  however,  so  studiously  concealed,  that  it  is  but 
very  imperfectly  known  toothers.    One  remarkable  fact  in  the  sys- 
tem is,  that  if  a  circle  be  described  about  them,  either  by  marking 
the  ground  with  a  stick,  or  walking  around  them-,  they  conceive  the 
circle  to  involve  some  magical  charm  and  are  very  reluctant  to  leave 
it  until  it  is  broken.    They  are  also  superstitious,  in  drinking  wine, 


312 


DISCUSSION  ON  IMAGE-WORSHIP. 


about  spilling  a  drop  upon  the  ground.  Should  the  reader  be  in- 
dined  to  know  more  of  the  Yczidees,  he  will  find  an  article  respect- 
ing them  in  the  Biblical  Repository,  prepared  with  considerable  re- 
search by  Rev.  H.  Homes  of  Constantinople.* 

May  1 1.  We  rode  six  fursakhs,  over  a  level  plain  and  reached 
the  village  of  Moollah  Soleiman.  The  plain  which  we  crossed  is 
extremely  fertile,  and  must  have  afforded  a  noble  and  favorite  camp 
ground  for  Timoiirlane  and  his  myriads  who  arc  said  at  one  time  to 
have  made  it  their  quarters.  Moollah  Soleiman  is  an  Armenian 
Catholic  village.  Its  priest  and  many  of  the  villagers  came  to  see 
us,  and  Mar  Yohannan  entertained  thenn  with  religious  conversation. 
Falling  into  a  warm  discussion  on  the  merits  of  image-worship, 
the  bishop  repeated,  with  great  pertinency  and  effect,  the  language 
of  David  in  the  105th  Psalm:  "  Their  idol?  are  silver  and  gold, 
the  work  of  men's  hands ;  they  have  mouths,  but  they  speak  not ; 
eyes  have  they,  but  they  see  not;  they  have  ears,  but  they  hear  not; 
noses  have  they,  but  they  smell  not;  they  have  hands,  but  they  han- 
dle not ;  feet  have  they,  but  they  walk  not;  neither  speak  they 
through  (heir  throat ;  they  that  make  them  are  like  unto  them;  so 
is  every  one  that  trusteth  in  them  ;"  and  to  this  very  appropriate 
quotation,  he  added  the  second  commandment,  to  the  great  confu- 
sion of  all  the  Catholics  who  were  present.  The  priest,  however, 
recovering  a  little,  tried  to  sustain  his  cause,  by  the  hackneyed  posi- 
tion, that  Christ  made  Peter  his  vicegerent,  and  that  Peter  has  a 
regular  line  of  successors  in  the  pontiffs  of  Rome,  down  to  the  pre- 
sent time,  attempting  to  stammer  the  hard  names  of  the  long  dark 
catalogue,  who  had  encouraged  the  use  of  pictures.  The  bishop  re- 
plied, that  the  apostles  are  all  in  Scripture  represented  as  pillars  of 
the  Christian  church,  Jesus  Christ  himself  being  the  chief  corner- 
stone; that  neither  prophets,  apostles  nor  Christ  had  ever  recom- 
mended image-worship  so  far  as  the  Bible  informs  us,  but  on  the 
contrary,  they  often  and  strongly  condemn  idolatry.  "And  the 
Bible,"  he  reiterated,  "the  Bible  is  our  anchor.  We  must  r.ling  to 
that,  whatever  the  popes  of  Rome  may  say."  It  was  not  a  Jittle 
gratifying  to  hear  a  Nestprian  bishop,  from  the  deep  darkness  of 
Persia,  thus  expose  and  combat  the  corrupt  doctrines  and  practices 
of  Papal  Rome,  with  an  intelligence,  earnestness  and  propriety 
which  would  do  honor  to  a  Protestant  prelate. 

May  12.  We  crossed  the  lofty  Ararat  range,  rode  eight  fursakhs 
and  reached  the  village  of  Dela-baba.  In  winding  our  way  through 
a  ravine  up  the  mountains,  we  observed  clusters  of  small  white  birches 
that  stud  the  brook  which  murmurs  along  by  the  road-side.  They 
are  the  first  and  the  only  white  birches  that  I  have  seen  in  all  my 
travels  in  Asia,t  and  the  sight  of  them  revived  ten  thousand  early 


*  See  Biblical  Repository  for  April,  1.942,  p.  320. 

•f  I  crossed  this  mountaia  by  another  route,  on  my  former  journey  to 
Erzroorn. 


&]NT1Q,UITIES  BRIDGE  MEETING. 


313 


recollections  of  the  land  of  my  kindred.  Mar  Yohannan  was  also 
much  interested,  having  never  seen  birches  before ;  and  the  more 
so,  when  I  dismounted  and  peeled  a  few  strips  of  tiie  bark  and  toJd 
him  liow  I  had  often  amused  myself  in  childhood  by  writing  upon 
such  bark.  The  reader  would  more  fully  appreciate  the  interest 
of  such  trifling  incidents,  that  awaken  associations  of  home,  were  he 
long  to  be  a  sojourner  in  distant  benighted  lands. 

Passing  down  from  the  mountain  range,  we  entered  the  beautiful 
Armenian  province  of  Pasin,  which  is  a  great  valley  extending  al- 
most to  Erzroom,  fertile  and  well  cultivated.  At  Dela-baba,  the 
village  where  we  stopped  for  the  night,  I  observed,  in  an  ancient 
grave-yard,  a  small  arched  dome,  beautifully  built  of  hewn  stone, 
without  any  entrance.  On  inquiry,  I  was  told  that  its  use  and  his- 
tory are  unknown  to  both  Armenians  and  Muharamedans ;  but  that 
it  may  have  been  the  work  of  the  Romans — which  is  a  very  com- 
mon solution  of  antiquarian  difficulties  among  the  natives  as  well 
as  travellers  in  those  regions. 

May  13.  We  rode  six  fursakhs  in  a  western  direction,  over 
delightful  undulations  in  the  valley  which  we  entered  yesterday,  and 
put  up  for  the  Sabbath  at  Kupry-koy,  Bridgeville.  Just  before 
reaching  the  village,  we  crossed  the  river  Arras  (Araxes)  by  the 
noble  structure  that  gives  name  to  the  village.  It  is  the  longest  bridge 
that  I  have  seen  in  Asia,  built  of  fine  hewn  stone  and  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  stood  there  many  centuries. 

May  15.  After  passing  the  Sabbath  in  a  dr6ary,  filthy  stable, 
we  rode  about  eight  forsakhs  and  reached  Erzroom.  Five  fdrsa'khs 
before  arriving  at  the  city,  we  passed  HiLssan-kulaah,  a  walled  town 
already  described,  containing  five  or  six  thousand  inhabitants.  Its 
strong  fortress  is  one  of  those  built  by  the  Genoese.  At  Erzroom, 
we  were  hospitably  received  by  Mr.  Brant,  the  British  consul,  with 
whom  I  had  not  finished  shaking  hands,  when  Mr.  Johnston,  our 
missionary  at  Trebizond,  entered  the  room.  He  had  accompanied 
Messrs.  Holladay  and  Stocking  from  Trebizond,  and  leaving  them 
a  few  miles  in  the  rear  when  in  sight  of  Erzroom,  had  rode  on  him- 
self to  provide  for  them  lodgings.  We  were  grateful  for  the  privi- 
lege of  meeting  again  in  that  distant  land,  and  particularly  inter- 
ested with  the  striking  Providence,  that  had  brought  me  from  Persia, 
Mr.  Johnston  from  Trebizond  and  our  new  associates  from  America, 
to  meet  at  the  place  appointed,  just  at  the  same  time.  An  hour 
afterward,  Messrs.  Holladay  and  Stocking  with  their  wives  arrived. 
Having  rested  and  procured  a  takt-ravvan  for  Mrs.  Holladay,  who 
had  become  too  feeble  to  ride  farther  on  horseback,  we  left  Erzroom, 
May  2Sth,  for  Persia.  It  was  so  late  in  the  day  when  we  started, 
that  we  rode  but  two  or  three  hours,  and  pitched  our  tent  by  the 
quiet  brook,  Nabhee-chai,  Prophet's  river,  for  the  Sabbath. 

May  21.  We  had  enjoyed  a  peaceful  Sabbath  and  retired  to 
rest,  intending  to  proceed  early  the  next  morning.  But  about  11 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  a  messenger  came  up  to  our  tent  from  Erz- 

40 


314  WITHDRAVrXL  OF  THE  GERMAN  MISSIONARIKS. 


room,  bringing  a  letter  to  me  from  Mr.  Zohrab,  stating  that  tidingg 
had  just  reached  the  city,  that  the  Koords  had  plundered  a  village 
near  the  frontier,  and  the  road  was  reported  to  be  very  unsafe.  A 
thousand  tender  and  painful  recollections  of  the  past,  as  well  as 
Bome  apprehension  for  the  future,  were  called  up  by  that  letter, 
near  the  very  spot,  as  we  were,  where  three  years  before,  Mrs.  Per- 
kins and  myself  were  induced,  on  account  of  the  disturbed  state  of 
the  Koords,  to  leave  our  direct  route  and  turn  off  into  Georgia,  the 
land  which  proved  to  us  a  scene  of  so  many  trials,  vexations  and 
sufferings,  and  had  well  nigh  proved  the  place  of  our  graves.  After 
consultation,  it  was  concluded  that  I  should  return  to  Erzroom, 
the  next  day,  and  endeavor  to  ascertain  more  fully  the  extent  of  the 
danger  from  the  Koords,  while  the  rest  of  the  party  should  proceed 
to  Hassan-kulaah,  where  I  hoped  to  be  able  to  join  them  the  ensu- 
ino-  evening. 

DO 

May  22.  I  returned  early  in  the  morning  to  Erzroom,  and  on 
conferring  with  the  English  consul,  found  that  we  might,  without 
imminent  hazard,  proceed  on  our  journey,  as  a  thousand  Turkish 
troops  were  to  start  in  a  day  or  two  for  the  frontier,  whose  approach 
would  be  likely  to  deter  the  Koords  from  committing  farther  depre- 
dations. I  reached  our  party,  at  Hassan-kulaah,  as  I  had  expected  ; 
and  the  next  day  we  proceeded,  having  the  army,  as  we  advanced, 
about  two  days  in  our  rear,  and  by  the  good  providence  of  Gcd 
were  brought  safely  to  Oroomiah,  where  we  arrived  on  the  7th  of 
June. 

In  the  heart  of  the  Koordish  country,  we  had  the  happiness  to 
meet  three  German  missionaries,  Messrs.  Haas,  Hoernle  and 
Schneider,  the  first  named  with  his  family,  on  their  way  from  Persia 
to  Europe.  It  was  a  grateful  meeting  to  us  all.  We  halted  on  the 
spot,  pitched  our  tents  in  the  desert,  and  spent  a  delightful  day  to- 
gether, in  conversation,  prayer  and  praise.  We  could  not,  how- 
ever, but  sympathize  with  these  excellent  brethren,  in  feelings  of 
deep  regret,  at  the  occasion  of  our  meeting.  Thei/  were  abandoning 
the  field  of  their  missionary  hopes  and  labors.  They  had  been  in 
Persia',  and  previously  in  Georgia,  a  considerable  period,  had  ac- 
quired a  familiar  acquaintance  with  the  native  languages,  and  had 
successfully  commenced  operations.  They  retired  not  from  choice 
but  necessity.  The  Basle  Missionary  Society,  under  whose  pat- 
ronage they  labored,  decided  not  to  continue  operations  in  Persia, 
unless  the  gospel  could  be  openly  proclaimed  to  the  Muhamme- 
dans.  This  is  impracticable.  Life  would  be  the  price  of  the  at- 
tempt. The  missionaries  had,  therefore,  no  other  alternative  than 
to  leave  the  country,  however  much  they  regretted  the  necessity  or 
dissented  in  opinion  from  the  policy  of  their  excellent  patrons. 

The  withdrawal  of  these  German  missionaries  is  a  serious  calam- 
ity to  Persia, — especially,  because  they  are  eminently  adapted  to 
labor  in  that  country.  We  need  working  men  in  Persia — men  who, 
while  they  are  fuJ]  of  faith  and  the  Holy  Ghost,  and  love  to  preach 


KIND  OF  MISSIONARIES  A  NEWSPAPER. 


315 


Christ  and  him  crucified  above  all  other  employments,  are,  at 
the  same  time,  not  reluctant  to  use  grammars  and  dictionaries,  and 
to  qualify  themselves,  if  occasion  shall  require,  to  make  grammars 
and  dictionaries  and  other  school-books.  We  need  men,  who  are 
willing  to  live  and  labor  for  Christ,  as  well  as  to  die  for  him.  We 
want  no  erratic,  idle  ramblers,  like  a  Jewish  convert  recently  in  that 
country.  It  is  an  easy  thing  for  one  to  proclaim  himself  ready  to 
die  for  Christ,  and  wander  over  the  Persian  empire,  report  his 
movements  "  in  perils  oft,"  excite  notoriety  at  home,  and  say  enough 
and  do  enough  to  raise  a  storm  in  every  city,  and  perhaps  interrupt 
the  labors  and  endanger  the  lives  of  more  prudent,  humble,  inde- 
fatigable and  useful  missionaries.  But  this  is  not  to  evangelize 
Persia;  nor  is  it  the^ri'^  step  toward  such  a  result.  It  is  to  excite 
suspicion,  rouse  the  jealous  MooUahs  to  redoubled  vigilance  in  their 
eagle  watch,  and  retard  the  object  Persia,  at  present,  needs  more 
light  than  heat.  And  the  men  sent  to  that  country  should  be  quali- 
fied and  willing  to  labor  hard  and  patiently,  to  diffuse  light,  as  well 
as  to  proclaim  Miihammed  a  false  Prophet,  and  Christ  the  Son  of 
Ood.  Such  men  were  these  sterling  German  missionaries,  whose 
departure  is  deeply  regretted  by  the  Persians,  as  well  as  by  ourselves. 

June  13.  A  Moolfah  called  to  visit  Mar  Yohannan,  and  request- 
ed of  him  the  christian  Scriptures.  When  the  bishop  applied  to 
me  for  a  Bible  to  give  him,  I  suggested  the  inquiry,  whether  it 
might  not  be  the  Moollah's  intention  to  procure  and  destroy  it. 
Mar  Yohannan  assured  me  to  the  contrary,  and  stated  that  the 
Moollah  is  his  old  acquintance,  belongs  in  a  village  near  his  own, 
is  a  very  amiable  man,  and  in  his  (the  bishop's)  opinion,  a  sincere 
inquirer  after  truth. 

June  15.  A  periodical  newspaper  has  recently  been  commenced 
under  the  auspices  of  the  king,  in  Muhammedan  Persia.  It  is 
edited  by  a  native  who  speaks  our  language — having  been  once 
ambassador  to  England — and  is  strongly  desirous  of  introducing 
European  knowledge  and  improvements  among  his  countrymen. 
This  newspaper,  though  a  small  thing  in  itself,  and  like  a  feeble 
taper  may  soon  go  out,  still,  viewed  as  a  sign  of  the  times,  as  an 
index  of  the  general  tendency  of  things,  is  a  bright  star  of  hope  for 
the  civil  renovation  of  Persia.  And  shall  European  light,  as  it  rolls 
into  this  country,  be  wholly  under  the  banners  of  the  men  of  this 
world?  Indirect  missionary  efforts — and  those  of  an  interesting 
and  encouraging  character — are  practicable,  among  the  MCiham- 
medans.  Thjs  German  mis.sionaries  had  very  auspiciously  com- 
menced such  efforts.  Mr.  Haas  had  a  flourishing  Mahammedan 
school;  and  his  labors  had  arrested  the  attention  and  elicited  the 
approbation  of  multitudes  of  the  higher  classes.  A  small  geography, 
which  he  prepared,  reached  the  king,  who  studied  it  attentively,  mani- 
fested a  deep  interest  in  it,  and  directed  his  Meerza  to  request  Mr. 
Haas  to  come  and  open  a  school  at  Tehran.  And  as  a  farther  to- 
ken of  the  royal  approbation  of  his  efforts  in  healing  the  sick,  as  well 


316  STYLE  OF  ADDRESS  VISIT  FKOM  DR.  RIACH. 


as  in  giving  instruction,  the  king  conferred  on  Mr.  H.  an  order  of 
Persian  knighthood.  Such  attentions  are  in  themselves,  of  course, 
of  no  value  to  the  missionary;  but  as  betokening  facilities  for  the 
spread  of  the  gospel,  it  were  ingratitude  to  God,  not  thankfully  to 
acknowledge  them. 

We  could  indeed  wish  that  it  were  now  practicable  to  preach  the 
gospel  openly  and  directly  to  the  Muhamniedans  in  Persia.  But 
because  on  coming  here  the  missionary  does  not  find  the  harvest, 
among  that  class,  already  ripe  and  falling  into  the  ground,  his  pa- 
trons should  not  abandon  the  field.  Can  he  reasonably  be  expected 
to  reap  before  he  has  sown  ?  And  in  a  field  which  Satan  has  so 
long  and  industriously  scattered  over  with  tares,  shall  the  churches 
marvel  and  despond,  if  the  soil  needs  cultivation  before  they  can 
pour  in  the  good  seed  ?  And  when  will  it  be  more  practicable  to 
commence  the  work  of  cultivation  ?  Who  are  to  prepare  geogra' 
phies,  histories,  school-books  and  tracts  for  Persia,  and  guide  its  in- 
habitants in  their  incipient  inquiries  after  truth^  if  not  christian 
missionaries  1 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

JOURNAL:  JULY— DECEMBER,  1837. 

We  went  out  to  the  village  of  Charbash,  July  4,  to  be  guests  of 
a  Nestorian  friend.  It  was  truly  refreshing  to  leave  the  hot,  dusty 
city,  and  enjoy  the  pure  air  of  a  village;  and  our  relaxation  was 
rendered  doubly  interesting  by  our  associations  called  up  by  the 
day.  Our  entertainment  was  simple  but  clean,  which  is  not  too  of- 
ten the  case  with  meals  in  Persia.  I  observed,  to-day,  a  peculiarity 
of  Nestorian  address.  Our  host,  in  speaking  to  his  wife,  did  not 
use  that  term,  nor  her  name,  but  the  name  of  her  father ;  i.  e.  sup- 
posing her  father's  name  to  have  been  Abraham,  her  husband-would 
<iddress  her,  "  thou  daughter  of  Abraham,"  do  this,  or  that.  This 
distant  mode  of  address,  which  is  common  among  the  Nestorians, — 
taken  in  connexion  with  the  servile  duties  which  the  wives  are  made 
to  perform  at  the  dictation  of  their  husbands,  impresses  one  not 
very  pleasantly  with  their  conjugal  confidence  and  affection.  The 
females,  even  among  these  nominal  Christians,  are  not  allowed  to 
eat  with  the  males,  but  serve  them  first  and  afterwards  partake  of 
what  remains. 

We  had  but  just  reached  home,  when  our  excellent  friend.  Dr.  Ri- 
ach,  arrived.  He  had  made  a  journey  to  Tiflis,  for  the  benefit  of  his 
impaired  health,  and  returned  to  Tehran  by  this  route,  increasing. 


DECLAMATION  VISIT  FROM  MR.  SOUTHGATE.  3l7 


the  distance  of  his  tour  about  two  hundred  miles,  for  the  sole  {JUf- 
pose  of  visiting  us,  and  aiding  and  cheering  us  in  our  work.  His 
presence,  a  few  days,  is  quite  a  relief  to  our  usual  loneliness. 

July  5.  In  con)pany  with  Dr.  Riach,  I  visited  the  governor. 
His  Excellency  and  the  large  number  of  nobles  about  him,  received 
Dr.  R.  with  much  attention,  as  a  member  of  the  English  embassy; 
and  they  were  all  deeply  interested  by  his  intelligent  conversation. 
He  made  it  his  object,  in  all  his  visits  at  Oroomiah,  to  excite  in  the 
people  a  desire  for  improvement,  and  thus  give  countenance  to  our 
labors.  "  What  is  it,"  said  Dr.  R.  to  the  governor  and  his  cour- 
tiers, "  that  enables  Englishmen  to  take  a  penny-worth  of  iron  and 
convert  it  into  a  form,  which,  when  brought  to  you,  readily  com- 
mands a  pound  ?  It  is  education — it  is  light."  His  remarks  might 
be  termed  an  appropriate  and  interesting  missionary  sermon,  and 
just  such  a  sermon  as  Muhammedans  here  need.  They  must  be 
enlightened,  and  thus  made  to  see  the  fallacy  and  folly,  of  their  own 
system,  before  they  will  be  ready  to  receive  the  gospel. 

Julij  13.  Our  seminary  was  rernoved  into  a  larger  room,  the 
heat  of  the  season  being  so  great  as  to  render  it  impracticable  for 
so  many  scholars  to  remain  in  the  old  one.  The  occasion  was 
celebrated  by  the  first  exercise  which  the  school  has  ever  attempted 
in  declamation.  The  priests  and  one  deacon  and  two  small  boys 
declaimed,  and  with  much  propriety.  Mr.  Stocking  pronounced  a 
piece  in  English,  at  the  commencement  of  the  exercise,  to  set  the 
school  an  example.  John,  our  boy,  also  declaimed  in  English. 
The  priests  and  the  other  boy  selected  their  declamations  from  the 
Psalms.  Some  of  the  clergy  are  quite  familiar  with  portions  of  the 
Scriptures,  particularly  with  the  Psalms,  which  form  a  large  part 
of  their  church  services. 

July  17.  We  were  cheered  by  the  arrival  of  Rev.  H.  South- 
gate,  an  Episcopal  missionary,  who  is  making  a  missionary  tour 
into  Persia.  He  is  glad  to  find  himself  safe  at  Oroomiah,  having 
taken  a  route  from  Erzroom  which  led  him  into  a  Jangerous  part 
of  the  Koordish  country.  His  Muhammedan  dress  shielded  him 
from  much  of  the  difficulty  and  danger  of  the  way,  that  he  must 
have  experienced,  had  he  been  known  as  a  European. 

July  26.  Rode  to  Gfiog-tapa,  in  company  with  Mr.  Southgate, 
about  sunset  and  passed  the  night.  Priest  Abraham  prepared  a 
good  supper  and  lodgings  for  us,  on  the  highest  house  in  the  village. 
In  the  evening.  Mar  Elias  and  several  of  the  villagers  came  to  visit 
us.  In  our  conversation,  I  inquired  whether  there  was  no  exposure 
from  dew,  in  sleeping  upon  the  roof,  to  which  they  replied,  that  they 
have  no  dews, — and  the  question  thence  arose  as  to  their  origin  in 
our  country, — whether  they  are  from  the  air  or  the  earth.  I  ex- 
plained to  them  the  common  theory  of  the  dew  being  deposited  by 
the  atmosphere,  and  all  professed  themselves  satisfied  with  its  rea- 
sonableness. The  brightly  twinkling  stars  happened  to  form  the 
next  topic.    The  peasants  in  PersTiapay  much  attention  to  the  stars, 


318 


MILKY  WAY  PRIMITIVE  CUSTOMS. 


as  the  heavenly  bodies  are  (with  the  mass,)  the  only  chronometers. 
And  the  Mohammedans  (the  Nestorians  less)  lay  ^reat  stress  on  the 
science  of  astrology,  as  I  have  before  suggested.  The  galaxy  caught 
the  philosophic  eye  of  Mar  Elias,  and  he  proceeded  to  offer  an  ex- 
planation. "  At  the  time  of  the  flood,"  said  he  "  we  read  that  the 
windows  of  heaven  were  opened.  That  light  streak  is  one  of  those 
windows  which  has  never  been  again  closed  up.  So  our  Mdpdnas 
(ancient  teachers)  say."  John,  who  was  with  nie,  caught  the  in- 
spiration of  the  theme,  and  rose  and  repeated,  in  Englisli,  the  fol- 
lowing beautiful  hymn,  that  he  had  recently  learned  from  a  small 
philosophy  which  he  had  been  studying. 

HYMN. 

"  God,  our  great  Creator,  Jesus, 
Made  the  world  we  live  upon; 
All  above  and  all  beneath  us, 
Are  the  works  of  God  the  Son. 

He  made  the  stars  and  made  the  comets, 
Made  the  moon  and  milky  icfiy; 
Made  the  sun  and  all  the  planets, 
Light  for  night  and  light  for  day. 

But  the  greatest  work  of  Jesus, 
Was  to  leave  his  throne  on  high, 
And  from  sin  and  liell  to  save  us, 
Bleed  and  die  on  Calvary." 

John  repeated  this  hymn  with  such  admirable  distinctness  and  anima* 
tion  as  to  rivet  the  attention  of  his  aged  father,  the  bishop,  and  all 
present,  though  they  were  ignorant  of  the  meaning.  With  one 
voice,  they  requested  him  to  translate  it,  which  he  did  to  their  still 
higher  gratification ; — and  when  at  the  close  he  suggested  the  idea 
that  the  "  milky  way,"  is  made  up  of  myriads  of  twinkling  stars,  it 
appeared  to  tl>em  at  least  as  probable  as  the  theory  of  their  Mdpd- 
nas, that  it  was  a  window  of  heaven  left  open  at  the  time  of  the 
flood.  We  enjoyed  a  refreshing  night's  sleep  on  the  high  roof  and 
rose  early  the  next  morning  and  returned  to  the  city. 

Aug.  15.  As  I  was  at  work  in  our  garden,  the  boys  belonging 
to  our  seminary  passed  along  and  saluted  me  in  their  common  pa- 
triarchal style,  AUdha-kuvet  ynvil,  May  God  give  you  strength. 
It  is  interesting  to  notice  how  much  there  is  that  is  truly  primitive 
in  tiie  people  among  whom  we  dwell.  We  meet  with  it  in  their 
household  furniture ;  in  their  agricultural  utensils;  in  their  instru- 
ments of  music;  bat  most  of  all  perhaps  in  their  modes  of  saluta- 
tion. When  two  persons  meet  they  mutually  salute  each  other 
by  one  saying,  "Peace  be  with  you,"*  and  the  other,  "  with  you 

*  TJie  Mcihanimednns  never  give  this  beautiful,  primitive  salutation  to  na-, 
tive  Christians,  and  the  more  strict  among  them  do  not  extend  it  to  Euro- 
peans.  "  God  keep  you,"  is  used  by  them,  in  addressing  ii\fidels,  (Chj-istianB). 


A   NKMCIHIAN   OI H  I. .  CARK  VI  N  li  WAIF.K 


CARRYING  WATER  SCRIPTURE  ILLUSTRATIONS.  319 


also,  be  peace."  When  one  enters  the  house  of  another,  he  says 
the  same,  "  Peace  be  with  you,"  and  the  other  replies,  "  Your  com- 
ing is  welcome."  Whea  a  guest  leaves  a  house,  he  say.s,  "  May 
God  grant  you  increase ;  may  your  days  be  prosperous;"  and  the 
Qther  replies,  "  May  God  be  with  yon."  And  these  salutations  are 
repeated,  as  often  as  persons  meet  or  enter  each  other's  apartments, 
if  it  be  every  half  hour  of  the  day.  Our  Western  style  of  stilutation 
strikes  an  oriental  as  meagre,  distant  and  cold ;  and  .seems  hardly  less 
so  to  ourselves,  after  residing  some  time  in  the  East.  We  would 
not  of  course,  however,  exchange  the  honest  brevity  of  American 
compliments  for  the  sweet-souuding  verbiage,  venerable  as  beautiful 
though  it  be,  of  heartless  Asiatics. 

If  you  do  a  Nestorian  a  kindness,  or  wish  him  prosperity,  he  says, 
in  thanking  you,  "  May  God  give  you  the  kingdom  of  heaven." 
When  one  puts  on  a  new  garment,  enters  anew  house,  or  purchases 
a  new  article,  his  friends  congratulate  him,  by  saying,  "  May  God 
bless  your  garment  to  you;  may  God  bless  your  house,"  etc.  The 
same  kind  of  pious  phraseology  runs  mto  -all  their  business  and  in- 
tercourse. When  one  enters  upon  a  piece  of  work,  he  repeats,  "  If 
the  Lord  will,  1  shall  accomplish  it."  When  a  boy  or  a  man  begins 
to  study  a  book,  he  writes  upon  the  margin  of  the  first  page,  "  By 
the  strength  of  the  Lord  I  shalJ  learn  this  book."  When  a  child 
commits  the  letters  of  his  alphabet,  as  often  as  he  repeats  them 
through,  he  is  taught  to  say,  At  the  close,  "  Glory  to  Christ  our 
king."  And  the  copyist  commences  his  volumfi  by  a  rubric  sen- 
tence, under  an  adorned  margin,  on  the  first  page,  "In  the  strength 
of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ  we  begin  to  write." 

Scores  of  Nestorian  girls  come  into  our  yard,  regularly,  morning, 
noon  and  night,  and  carry  water  from  our  reservoir,  with  "  Rebec- 
ca's pitcher,"  upon  their  shoulders.  The  vessel  which  they  use  is, 
however,  an  earthernj^u^,  rather  than  a  pitcher,  as  indicated  in  the 
accompanying  drawing.  And  the  pitchers  of  those  ancient  damsels 
were  doubtless  of  the  same  description.  When  a  child,  in  reading 
the  allusions  to  this  subject  in  the  Bible,  I  have  often  wondered  how 
a  " pitcher  fdled  with  water,  could  be  borne  upon  the  shoulder. 
In  Persia  I  found  the  explanation.  The  jug,  which  holds  from  two 
to  five  gallons,  has  a  handle  through  which  a  rope  is  passed  and  held 
by  the  hands,  and  it  is  thus  conveniently  carried.  Innumerable  inci- 
dents of  a  most  common  nature  are  constantly  occurring  before  our 
eyes  in  the  East,  that  forcibly  illustrate  Scripture  allusions.  As 
another  instance,  the  girls  who  flock  around  our  fountain  to  fill 
their  "  pitchers,"  often  crowd  and  jostle  each  other,  and  the  jug  of 
some  one  of  them  falls  upon  the  pavement  and  is  dashed  in  pieces ; 
and  there  is  "  the  pitcher  broken  at  the  fountain," — irreparably  bro- 
ken— its  value  and  usefulness  at  an  end — the  striking  emblem,  used 
in  Scripture,  of  old  age  and  the  end  of  life.  The  beautiful  illustra- 
tions of  the  Bible,  presented  thus  vividly  aud  constantly  to  the  mis- 


320 


GATHERING  GRAPES  LABOR  OF  FEMALES. 


sionary  in  Asia,  is  a  source  of  untold  pleasure  to  him  and  one  of  the 
greatest  mitigations  to  his  exile  from  kindred  and  home. 

The  fact  that  there  is  much  in  the  character  and  customs  of  the 
Nestorians  which  is  primitive,  naturally  suggests  the  idea  of  their 
Jewish  origin,  as  our  familiarity  with  Jewish  customs,  is  greater  than 
with  those  of  other  Eastern  nations,  from  our  early  perusal  of  the 
Scriptures.  Tt  is,  however,  well  known  to  a  resident  or  traveller  in 
the  East,  that  domestic  manners  and  customs,  among  the  Jews  and 
Nestorians  and  other  nations  there,  are  not  in  general  Jewish  nor 
Nestorian,  nor  notional,  distinctively ; — they  are  rather  Eastern — 
oriental,  in  the  broad  sense  of  that  term.  Hence  the  argument 
drawn  from  this  source,  to  make  any  given  people  Jewish  in  their 
origin  proves  nothing,  by  proving  too  much;  as  it  might  with  equal 
propriety  be  applied  to  almost  all  Eastern  nations,  and  make  them 
all  of  the  same  origin.  With  the  Nestorians  that  come  to  our  foun- 
tain for  water,  for  instance,  are  many  Muhammedan  girls,  whose 
"  pitchers  "  upon  their  shoulders  and  general  appearance  as  fully 
entitle  them  to  be  called  the  descendants  of  Jewish  Rebeccas  and 
Rachels,  as  their  christian  neighbors ;  and  the  same  is  true  in  other 
things.  And  yet  mistake  on  this  subject,  from  the  circumstances  I 
have  mentioned,  is  perfectly  natural. 

Aug.  17.  We  were  invited  to  visit  G6og-tapa,  it  being  the  sea- 
son to  gather  grapes  from  the  vineyards;  many  acres  on  the  bor- 
ders of  which  are  now  covered  over  with  the  clusters  of  th'e  vine, 
spread  out,  drying  for  raisins.  The  grapes  are  laid  thickly  upon  in- 
clined terraces,  prepared  for  the  purpose.  The  vineyards,  on  the 
plain  of  Oroomiah,  which  are  almost  numberless  and  boundless, 
present  a  very  striking  appearance  at  this  season  of  the  year.  It  is 
common  for  Nestorian  girls  and  women  to  labor  in  the  fields,  during 
the  summer.  They  weed  the  cotton,  and  assist  in  pruning  the  vines 
and  gathering  the  grapes.  Mothers  take  their  cradles,  with  their 
infants  in  them,  upon  their  shoulders,  in  the  morning,  and  carry 
them  to  the  distant  field  or  vineyard.  The  child  lies  bound  in  the 
cradle  all  day,  being  visited  by  the  mother,  who  is  at  her  work  near 
by,  a  few  times  to  nurse  it ;  and  at  night,  the  little  stranger  is  car- 
ried home  in  the  same  way.  The  wife  of  priest  Abraham  told  us, 
to-day,  that  her  husband  would  not  allow  her  to  go  out,  during  the 
present  season,  preferring  to  do  all  the  work  himself.  It  is  inter- 
esting to  observe  this  incipient  improvement,  in  the  regard  for  fe- 
males, among  those  who  reside  with  us. 

Aug.  20.  To  avoid  the  extreme  heat  of  the  city,  most  of  the 
members  of  our  mission  went  out  fifteen  miles,  to  the  village  of  Ar- 
dishai,  to  spend  a  day  or  two  with  Mai;  Gabriel.  We  started  so  late 
that  we  reached  our  destination  not  until  some  time  in  the  evening. 
The  bishop  welcomed  us  to  his  hospitable  dwelling,  and  late  as  it 
was,  an  excellent  meal  was  prepared  for  us,  and  a  large  number  of 
the  villagers  assembled  to  greet  us  and  gratify  their  curiosity,  before 
we  retired  to  rest. 


NAVIGATION  OF  THE  LAKE  POTTERY. 


321 


Aug.  21.  Our  visitors  again  became  numerous  quite  early  this 
morning.  In  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  Mr.  Stocking  and  myself 
rode  four  miles,  to  a.  point  on  the  lake,  at  which  a  small  vessel,  be- 
longing to  Maiek  Kasem  Meerza,  was  lying  at  anchor.  The  vessel 
is  one  of  five  or  six  belonging  to  the  same  prince,  nearly  the  size  of 
an  American  schooner,  but  of  the  rudest  conceivable  construction. 
They  have  flat  bottoms  and  a  triangular  form  ;  or  more  strictly,  they 
are  square  at  the  stern  and  the  sides  are  slightly  curved,  giving 
them  very  much  the  shape  of  a  common  flat-iron.  The  bishop  ex- 
pressed his  admiration  of  the  vessel  which  we  visited,  and  inquired 
whether  our  countrymen  have  any  as  large  and  well  built.  And 
when  I  gave  him  some  account  of  American  shipping,  his  mingled 
emotions  of  astonishment  and  incredulity  were  very  strongly  depicted 
on  his  couutenance.  This  vessel  is  manned  by  ten  men,  who  were 
now  loading  it  with  timber,  to  transport  to  Tabreez.  There  are 
no  natural  forests  at  Orooraiah  ;  but  the  willows,  poplars  and  syca- 
mores planted  on  the  water-courses,  are  of  such  size  and  so  abun- 
dant here  as  to  render  timber  quite  an  article  of  export  to  the  neigh- 
boring districts.  The  progress  of  these  vessels  is  very  slow  and 
their  voyages  long,  depending  on  the  favor  of  the  winds  and  the 
more  tardy  movements  of  the  crew,  who,  in  prospect  of  hunger  alone, 
Avill  ply  their  long,  rude  oars. 

The  navigation  of  the  lake  is  monopolized  by  Malek  Kasem 
Meerza,  to  whom  the  privilege  was  granted  by  his  royal  nephew, 
the  Shah.  A  nobleman  of  Oroomiah,  in  the  spirit  of  "  free  trade 
and  sailors'  rights,"  built  two  vessels,  a  few  years  ago,  in  imitation 
of  those  of  the  prince;  but  he  was  never  permitted  to  use  them  and 
they  now  lie  rotting  upon  the  beach.  An  extensive  business  might 
be  carried  on,  by  an  efficient  navigation,  between  Oroomiah  and 
Tabreez.  The  transportation  by  caravans  which  requires  a  week, 
could  thus  be  accomplished  in  a  day, — the  distance  between  the 
two  cities  being  diminished  by  more  than  half,  in  addition  to  the  in- 
creased speed.  And  all  travellers,  who  value  time  or  ease  of  con- 
veyance, would  of  course  be  among  the  patrons.  The  lake  is  dis- 
tant twenty-five  miles  from  Tabreez  and  half  that  from  Oroomiah; 
but  the  way  is  almost  a  water  level,  ready  for  the  tracks  of  rail-road 
cars.  If  wood  is  too  scarce  there  for  the  consumption  of  steam-en- 
gines, it  requires,  as  we  have  been  told,  only  men  of"  sense"  (sci- 
ence) to  fin<i  plenty  of  coal.  We  hope,  at  least,  that  a  horse-boat 
may  ere  long  find  its  way  to  that  lake ;  for  ten  or  twelve  days  is 
much  more  time  than  a  missionary  at  Orooraiah  can  afford  to  devote 
to  a  journey  to  Tabreez,  whither  our  object  often  calls  us. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  visited  the  pottery  at  Ardishai.  Coarse 
earthen  ware  is  manufactured  there  in  great  abundance,  and  like  aJl 
other  articles  made  in  Persia,  with  the  simplest  apparatus.  The 
ease  and  rapidity  with  which  the  ware  is  made  to  assume  any  shape 
■desired,  vividly  reminded  us  of  the  beauty  and  force  of  the  figure 
drawn  from  this  source  and  used  by  the  apostle  to  illustrate  the 

41 


322         PUNISHMENT  OF  DESERTERS  ROTAL  EDICTS. 


doctrine  of  divine  sovereignty  ;  "  As  the  clay  in  the  hands  of  the 
potter."  Jost  before  evening,  most  of  oor  party  bathed  in  the  lake. 
The  water  is  so  salt  that  a  crystal  coat  forms  upon  a  person  bathing 
in  it  the  moment  he  rises  up,  and  its  specific  gravity  is  so  great  thai 
it  buoys  hina  upon  its  surface  and  renders  it  difficult  to  sinK. 

Aug.  22.  We  rose  at  day-break  and  started  for  home.  As  we 
passed  out  of  the  village,  we  noticed,  at  that  early  hour,  two  fat  buf- 
faloes just  knocked  down  in  preparation  for  the  festival  which  com- 
mences to-day.  A  fast  of  two  weeks  closes,  during  which  the  Nes- 
torians  have  eaten  no  flesh,  and  to  make  up  for  this  season  of  absti- 
nence, they  consider  it  proper  to  hold  a  festival  and  allowable  to  in- 
dulge in  the  excessive  use  of  meat  Such  religious  practices  muet 
of  course  exert  a  highly  immoral  influence.  Just  before  we  reached 
the  city,  we  met  the  prince,  Malek  Mansoor  Meerza,  starting  for 
Tabreez.  He  had  with  him  a  large  retinue,  himself  in  front,  in 
princely  style,  carrying  a  fowling-hawk  in  his  hand.  He  halted  and 
conversed  with  me  a  few  moments,  and  kindly  proposed  to  take  let- 
ters for  us  to  Tabreez. 

Sept.  10.  The  king  has  just  sent  several  orders  to  the  governor 
of  Oroomiah,  which  not  a  little  embarrass  him.  One  thousand  sol- 
diers, belonging  to  this  province,  deserted  from  the  king's  army 
about  four  months  ago  and  returned  to  their  homes.  His  Majesty 
now  orders  the  gxDvernor  to  exact  from  each  of  them  thirty  tomans 
($75,)  brand  him  in  his  forehead  and  burn  down  his  house.  The 
order  was  written  with  the  king's  own  hand,  which  invests  it  with 
special  importance,  and  accompanied  by  the  fi-ightful  threat — "if 
you  do  not  execute  this  command,  I  will  give  yon  a  kick  from 
which  you  will  never  recover,  in  this  world."  The  governor's  au- 
thority is  too  weak  to  enable  him  to  carry  into  effect  the  royal  order, 
and  he  ktKjMrs  not  what  to  do.  There  is  little  of  quiet  and  comfort, 
for  either  rulers  or  people  in  Persia.  Those  deserters  doubtless  de- 
serve punishment.  But  they  had  been  pressed  into  service,  half 
naked,  leaving  their  families  destitute  at  home,  and  had  received 
only  a  fraction  of  their  scanty  stipend  from  government.  The  sol- 
dier has  thus  btrt'  small  motives  to  j>atTiotic  loyalty.  And  the  local 
governors  are  constantly  liable  to  receive  orders  which  they  cannot 
execute,  but  the  non-fulfilment  of  which  may  cost  them  their  places 
or  even  their  beads.  In  such  a  country,  discontent,  foreboding  aod 
terror  must  reign  in  every  bosonu  As  a  practical  relief,  however, 
the  reader  should  be  informed,  that  the  royal  edicts  of  modern  tinves 
in  Persia,  are  not  invariably  like  those  laws  of  the  ancient  Medes 
and  Persians  which  "  change  not."  They  are  not  unfrequently 
mitigated  or  cancelled,  by  the  capricious  monarch.  Life  in  that 
country  is  therefore  a  cup  of  trembling,  between  hope  and  fear. 

Oct.  3,  Received  the  following  note  from  prince  Malek  Kaaeni 
Meerza. 


LETTER  TO  THE  SYRIAN  CHURCH. 


323 


"  Askdn,  1837,  Sept  22. 

Rev.  J.  Perkins  and  Dr.  A.  Grant, 

Gentlemen, — I  have  much  pleasure,  in  giving  you  information, 
that  we  intend,  God  willing,  to  visit  Oroomiah,  in  the  course  of  this 
month,  and  if  nothing  impedes  us,  we  will  feel  the  highest  plea- 
sure, in  visiting  there  your  most  celebrated  school,  and  of  imitating 
it  if  possible.  I  remain,  Sirs,  yours  very  truly, 

M.  K.  M." 

Too  much  should  not  be  inferred  from  such  letters.  They  are 
interesting,  as  indicating  a  desire,  in  Persians  of  rank,  to  encourage 
improvements.  But  we  cannot  rely  on  them  to  effect  a  great  deal 
by  their  own  exertions.  They  are  too  weak  and  selfish  to  make  sac- 
rifices in  the  work.  Their  commendation  of  the  missiomary  and  his 
object  is  indeed  immensely  important,  in  its  general  effects  on  the 
people.  But  it  is  still  the  missionary  who  must  put  his  shoulder  to 
the  wheel  and  perform  the  labor,  or  it  will  never  be  accomplished. 

Oct.  18.  Our  Nestorian  ecclesiastics  have  sometimes  heard  us 
refer  to  a  branch  of  the  Syrian  church  in  India,  of  the  existence  of 
which  they  seem  previously  to  have  had  some  knowledge.  Mar 
Yohannan,  a  day  or  two  since,  directed  priest  Dunka,  to  prepare  a 
letter,  in  his  name,  to  those  Christians.  When  the  letter  was  com- 
pleted, it  was  submitted  to  me  for  perusal.  I  give  the  reader  the 
following  literal  translation  of  it,  alike  for  the  statistics  it  contains 
and  the  manner  of  stating  them. 

"In  the  name  of  God: 

The  grace  of  God ;  the  peace  of  our  Lord,  from  the  mouth  of 
Mar  Yohannan,  bishop,  and  from  the  priests  and  the  deacons;  and 
the  whole  multitude  of  the  faithful,  the  Syrian  Christians  of  the 
East,  in  other  terms,  the  Chaldeans; — unto  the  people,  blessed  and 
pure,  redeemed  by  the  flowing  blood  of  salvation ;  clothed  in  the 
baptism  of  water,  that  unfading  robe,  made  perfect  by  water  and  the 
Spirit ;  and  unto  the  wise  and  exalted  priests  ;  and  unto  the  select 
deacons  ;  and  the  unblemished  chiefs  ;  unto  a  people  saved  by  the 
Lord  Jesus.  May  the  living  God  keep  you  from  all  the  snares  of 
the  Destroyer,  in  answer  to  the  prayers  of  the  holy  and  just  ones 
who  observe  the  pure  commandments.  May  you  be  firm  and  im- 
moveable, under  the  banner  of  the  cross  of  life.  Amen. 

"  Know  ye  that  this  is  the  business  of  our  epistle  which  we  send 
unto  you.  First,  we  would  inquire  for  your  welfare;  and  next,  we 
would  state  that  we  have  heard,  there  are  Syrian  Christians  in  your 
country,  and  our  desire  is  great  to  see  you.  But  it  is  a  day  of  op- 
pression with  us,  and  the  way  is  distant  and  difficult,  and  we  cannot 
come  to  you.  Our  desire,  therefore,  is  this ;  that  you  send  unto  us 
also  an  epistle,  informing  us  what  is  your  language  and  your  faith 
and  religious  observances. 

By  this  letter,  know  ye,  that  we  are  Nestorians,  believing  in 


3'24 


OBSERVANCES  AND  CANONS. 


Christ,  in  two  natures  but  one  person.  We  call  Mary  the  mother 
of  Christ,  (not  the  mother  of  God,)  yea  and  Amen.  And  further- 
more, know  ye,  on  seeing  this  letter,  that  there  are,  in  our  country, 
Mar  Shimon,  the  spiritual  head  or  Patriarch  ;  and  Mar  Yeesho,  the 
metropolitan.  There  are  Mar  Yohannan,  Mar  Gabriel,  Mar  Jo- 
seph and  Mar  Elias,  of  the  province  of  Oroomiah.  There  are  Mar 
Khnan-yeesho,  the  metropolitan,  and  Mar  Dunka,  and  Mar  Yohan- 
nan, bishops  of  the  province  of  Droostaka.  And  Mar  Sleeva,  bish- 
op of  the  district  of  Gavar,  and  Mar  Sergis,  bishop  of  the  district, 
Jalem  Jeloo,  and  Mar  Yeeshooyabh,  bishop  of  the  province  Barbar — 
and  a  few  other  bishops.  There  are  arch-deacons  and  priests  and 
readers,  and  a  people  of  believing  Christians,  many,  very  many. 

"  Again  ;  know  ye  that  our  religious  observances  are  these. 
First,  the  fasts  and  festivals  which  we  observe.  We  keep  fifty  days 
as  the  fast  of  our  Saviour,  Jesus  Christ ;  and  on  the  fiftieth  day,  we 
hold  a  festival.  Further,  there  is  another  festival,  which  we  call  the 
festival  of  Christ's  ascension  to  heaven.  And  again,  the  feast  of 
Pentecost.  Fifty  days,  commenting  with  Pentecost,  is  the  fast  of 
the  apostles  ;  and  at  the  close  of  this  fast  we  keep  the  feast  of  the 
apostles.  Again,  we  keep  a  fast  of  fifteen  days  in  the  month  of 
August,  called  the  fast  of  St.  Mary.  Again,  there  are  the  seven 
weeks'  fast  of  Elias,  and  the  seven  weeks'  fast  of  Moses,  which  some 
men  observe  and  some  do  not  observe.  There  is  the  feast  of  the 
transfiguration  of  Christ ;  the  feast  of  the  cross  and  the  feast  of  the 
birth  of  Christ,  and  the  feast  of  the  baptism  of  Christ. 

"  These  eight  festivals  of  our  Lord  we  observe,  and  we  have  many 
holy  days  and  the  Sabbath  day,  on  which  we  do  not  labor.  And  on 
Wednesday  and  Friday,  we  eat  no  flesh.  The  Sabbath  day  we  reck- 
on far — far  above  the  others.  The  sacrament  of  the  body  and  blood 
of  Christ  we  celebrate,  with  the  leaven,  the  olive  oil  and  pure  meal ; 
and  with  wine. 

"Again ;  we  hold,  concerning  the  matrimonial  union  of  man  with 
woman,  that  within  four  generations  on  the  side  of  the  man;  and 
four  generations  on  the  side  of  the  woman,  they  shall  not  marry. 
Within  these  bounds,  they  are  kindred.  Amen. 

"Again ;  know  ye  that  images  and  pictures  we  in  no  wise  admit, 
and  we  never  have  admitted  them  ;  and  there  are  none  kept  among 
us ;  not  one. 

"  When  this  letter  shall  reach  you,  write  ye  to  our  Patriarch,  and 
to  the  metropolitans,  and  the  bishops,  everything  respecting  your 
people,  as  what  cities  ye  dwell  in,  what  are  your  religious  obser- 
vances and  so  on.  Amen. 

"  This  letter  is  written  in  the  city  of  Oroomiah ;  in  the  first 
month  of  Cheree  (October)  and  on  the  seventh  day  of  the  month. 
(Signed)  The  unworthy  Mar  Yohannan." 

It  is  pleasing  to  see  one  branch  of  the  ancient  church  of  Antioch 
searching  for  a  sister  branch,  in  a  different  and  far  distant  land. 


DESIKE  OF  CHANGE  TEMPERANCE  REPORT. 


325 


May  the  revival  of  their  acquaintance  and  intercourse,  result  in  the 
revival  of  their  united  and  efficient  efforts  for  the  ushering  in  of  the 
millennial  glory  of  Zion.  The  statistics  contained  in  this  curious 
document  may  be  considered  as  essentially  correct.  Priest  Dunka, 
the  writer,  has  travelled  among  all  the  clans  of  the  Nestorians  in 
these  regions  and  is  personally  acquainted  with  most  of  their  clergy. 
While  it  is  cheering  to  see  some  of  the  most  revoking  features  of 
Romanism  and  of  the  other  oriental  sects  distinctly  and  fully  dis- 
carded by  the  Nestorians,  still,  the  recital  of  the  cumbersome  mass 
of  their  worse  than  useless  formalities  is  sufficient  deeply  to  pain  the 
heart  of  the  spiritual  believer,  and  especially  of  the  missionary  who 
dwells  among  them,  and  sees  and  feels  how  much  this  miserable 
hay,  wood  and  stubble  is  substituted  for  the  purity  and  glory  of  the 
gospel.  The  revival  of  the  spirit  and  power  of  Christianity  will,  we 
trust,  gradually  dislodge  them  from  their  usurped  position. 

Oct.  21.  The  Nestorians  of  this  district  are  at  present  in  a  state 
of  much  excitement.  The  Russian  emperor  is  on  a  visit  in  Geor- 
gia, and  a  Nestorian  who  has  lived  many  years  in  that  country  has 
just  come  here,  who  is  stirring  up  the  people  to  send  a  delegation  to 
petition  the  emperor  either  to  take  possession  of  their  country,  or  as- 
sist them  to  emigrate  from  it  into  Georgia.  It  is  not  strange  that 
the  heavy  and  habitual  oppression  which  the  Nestorians  experience 
from  their  Muhammedan  masters  should  make  them  desirous  of 
change.  They  are  strongly  attached  to  their  beautiful  and  fertile 
country,  and  will  never  probably  be  willing  to  abandon  it.  But  such 
excitements  are  unfavorable  to  our  labors  for  their  improvement. 
To  one  acquainted  in  these  countries,  it  is  clear  that  the  condition 
of  the  Nestorians  would  be  far  enough  from  improved  in  any  respect, 
by  their  coming  into  a  nearer  connexion  with  Georgia.  No  despot- 
ism is  more  grinding  than  that  which  exists  in  that  province.  And 
what  their  religious  prospects  would  be,  in  case  of  such  a  change, 
we  may  infer,  from  the  deep  and  appalling  corruption  of  morals, 
which  Russian  troops  and  agents  have  spread,  like  a  pestilence, 
through  Georgia,  during  the  present  generation  ;  and  the  settled 
policy  of  the  government  to  which  it  is  prompted  by  the  priesthood 
to  exclude  Protestant  missionaries  from  all  its  dominions. 

Nov.  1.  Prince,  Malek  Kasem  Meerza,  arrived  on  his  visit  at 
Oroomiah.  His  Muhammedan  school  of  about  a  dozen  scholars, 
and  his  teacher,  the  Armenian  from  India,  have  accompanied  him. 
The  prince,  as  well  as  the  scholars,  is  studying  the  English  language 
and  the  elements  of  an  English  education  ;  and  they  all  appear  to  be 
succeeding  much  better  than  I  had  supposed. 

Nov.  3.  I  received  the  following  note  from  the  above-named  Ar- 
menian teacher  of  the  prince. 

''Oroomiah,  Nov.  1837. 

Rev.  and  Dear  Sir, 

His  royal  Highness,  Malek  Xasem  Meerza,  who  at  the  first  sight 
of  the  copy  of  your  Temperance  Reports^  deemed  it  worthy  to  be 


326         THE  prince's  school  EVENING  EXERCISE. 

fael  for  the  fire,  is  at  present  so  much  pleased  with  the  highly  bene- 
ficial instructions  contained  in  it,  that  he  orders  me,  this  morning, 
to  lecture  the  first  class  in  my  school  in  that  most  exellent  book. 
Should  you  therefore  kindly  spare  five  copies  of  it,  for  this  purpose, 
you  will  greatly  oblige  an  affectionate  friend  of  the  temperance 
cause,  who  will  make  his  best  efforts  to  promote  its  interest,  and 
remain  with  sentiments  of  respect,  yours  very  obediently, 

(Signed)  M.  D.  T." 

I  sent  the  teacher  the  only  copy  of  temperance  documents  which 
I  had  by  me.  The  case  of  the  prince,  in  this  connexion,  is  in- 
teresting. In  becoming  acquainted  with  irreligious  Europeans,  he 
had  become  addicted  to  the  excessive  use  of  strong  drink,  and  had 
nearly  ruined  his  health.  A  few  months  ago,  our  friend,  Dr.  Riach, 
was  called  to  prescribe  for  him,  and  his  prescription  was  total  ab- 
stinence from  the  use  of  intoxicating  liquors.  Dr.  R.  accompanied 
his  prescription  with  an  appropriate  lecture  on  the  general  subject, 
and  the  prince  has  since  that  time,  according  to  his  own  statement, 
broken  off  from  the  use  of  strong  drink.  This  afternoon,  the 
teacher  and  school  of  His  Royal  Highness,  called  to  visit  our 
Nestorian  seminary.  His  scholars  united  with  our  classes  in 
some  of  their  recitations,  and  they  appeared  to  be  making  very  en- 
couraging progress.  It  was  particularly  interesting  to  see  the 
haughty  Muhammedans,  young  Khans  among  the  rest,  forgetting 
their  religious  prejudices  in  the  emulation  of  study,  and  taking  their 
places  in  the  same  classes  with  the  despised  native  Christians. 

Nov.  4.  At  the  invitation  of  the  prince,  we  called  to  visit  him. 
He  has  made  surprising  progress  in  learning  English  since  he  visited 
Orooraiah  two  years  ago.  For  our  entertainment,  he  called  for  his 
volume  of  temperance  documents,  and  read  a  part  of  the  first  page 
and  translated  it  into  Persian.  He  declared  his  intention  of  trans- 
lating the  whole  volume  into  Persian,  and  presenting  it  to  the  king. 
If  the  perusal  of  it  shall  prove  a  means  of  preventing  a  relapse  to 
his  cups,  it  will  perform  a  most  important  office  for  him  and  his 
countrymen,  though  it  should  never  be  translated  into  their  native 
language.  The  prince  is  evidently  a  map  of  very  fine  talents, 
and  he  appears  to  desire  that  light  should  break  in  upon  Persia. 
His  teacher  states  that  he  remits  the  taxes  of  those  individuals  in 
his  village  who  are  disposed  to  send  their  sons  to  his  school- 

Nov.  6.  We  have  recently  commenced  an  evening  exercise  in 
languages,  in  which  all  the  natives  connected  with  our  families,  the 
seminary  scholars  who  study  English,  and  the  members  of  our  mis- 
sion, participate.  Each  individual  previously  prepares  a  sentence — 
the  Nestorians  in  English,  and  we  in  the  modern  Syriac.  These 
sentences  are  committed  to  memory  and  repeated,  also  presented  in 
writing  at  the  exercise,  and  some  time  is  spent  in  extempore  efforts 
in  conversation.  It  is  an  important  aid  both  to  us  and  the  Nesto- 
rians, in  the  acquisition  of  the  respective  languages  which  we  mu- 


AN  ENGLISH  OFFICEJR  JACOBITE  SYRIANS.  327 


lually  find  difficult.  The  effort  at  composition  also  awakens  the 
dormant  minds  of  the  natives,  affords  them  agreeable  employment, 
and  saves  ihem  from  idleness  and  temptation  to  vice  during  their 
long  autumn  and  winter  evenings. 

Nov.  7.  Major  W.  an  English  officer  who  is  spending  a  few 
weeks  at  Oroomiah,  for  the  purpose  of  drilling  troops,  has,  we  have 
reason  to  hope,  recently  passed  from  death  unto  life.  He  spent  the 
first  week  after  his  arrival,  in  my  family,  no  comfortable  quarters 
having  been  provided  for  him  elsewhere  by  government.  He  then 
appeared  to  cherish  much  respect  for  religion ;  but  it  was  not  until 
a  few  days  after  he  took  lodgings  in  another  house,  that  he  expressed 
to  U3  the  joy  and  peace  which  were  then,  for  the  first  time,  spring- 
ing up  in  his  soul.  It  is  delightful  and  instructive,  to  witness  the 
striking  resemblance  between  the  views  and  feelings  of  this  solitary 
convert  in  distant  Persia,  and  the  subjects  of  American  revivals. 
His  deepest  concern  now  is,  that  he  may  derote  himself  entirely  to 
the  service  of  God,  and  be  made  instrumental  of  turning  others  to 
righteousness.  To  the  missionary,  such  cases  are  precious  mercy 
drops,  in  a  dark  and  desert  land. 

Nov.  8.  The  prince  and  his  MooUah  visited  our  seminary. 
Both  expressed  themselves  highly  gratified  with  the  performance  of 
the  scholars.  His  Royal  Highness  exhorted  them  to  proceed  dili- 
gently with  their  studies,  by  enumerating  the  many  advantages 
which  they  would  derive  from  education.  After  visiting  the  school, 
the  prince  dined  with  us  and  passed  the  evening.  VVe  held  our 
exercise  in  language,  and  he  took  part  with  us,  repeating,  in  his 
turn,  simple  English  phrases.  Some  of  the  sentences  presented  by 
the  Nestoriaas  were  quite  oriental  and  highly  complimentary  in 
their  character.  I  may  give  the  reader  a  specimen.  A  delightful 
rain  had  just  fallen — an  event  most  welcome  in  Persia,  after  its  en- 
tire absence  for  many  months,  during  the  warm  part  of  the 
year.  In  allusion  to  this,  priest  Yohannan,  the  principal  of  our 
seminary,  remarked,  in  his  usual  deliberate  and  solemn  manner, 
"We  believe  that  the  footsteps  of  His  Royal  Highness,  Malek  Ka- 
sem  Meerza,  to  this  province,  are  viewed  propitiously  by  heaven, 
the  event  being  signalized  by  this  plentiful  fall  of  rain."  The 
prince  acknowledged  the  compliment,  and  expressed  himself  as 
highly  pleased  with  our  plan  of  learning  languages. 

Nov.  9.  The  Armenian  teacher  from  India  called  at  my  study, 
of  whom  ray  translators  made  inquiries  respecting  the  Syrian  Chris- 
tians of  that  country;  and  when  they  learned  that  all  the  Syrian 
Christians  in  India,  are  of  the  Jacobite  sect,  they  expressed  much 
regret  that  Mar  Yohannan  had  addressed  to  them  the  above  letter. 
The  most  bitter  hostility  has  existed,  from  time  immemorial,  be- 
tween the  Nestorians  and  the  Jacobites.  The  latter  are  monopky- 
sites, — holding  to  but  one  nature  in  Christ,  which  is  the  most  im- 
portant circumstance  of  their  difference.  The  Jacobites  are  also 
much  lesa  simple  and  evangelical  in  their  religious  practices  than 


328     CULTIVATION  OF  THE  BEET  PARLEy's  GEOGRAPHY. 

the  Nestorians.  They  are  about  as  much  devoted  to  the  use  of 
pictures  as  the  Armenians  or  the  Catholics. 

Nov.  10.  The  prince  invited  the  members  of  our  mission  to 
dine  with  hiin.  Our  wives  were  also  invited,  but  they  excused 
themselves,  on  the  ground  that  his  lady  was  not  to  be  present  on  the 
occasion.  It  is  well  that  they  had  so  reasonable  an  excuse,  as  their 
compliance  with  the  invitation,  under  any  circumstances,  might 
have  been  regarded  as  improper,  by  the  people  of  this  city  who  have 
seen  few  Europeans,  and  know  little  of  their  manners  and  customs. 
The  dinner,  which  was  prepared  in  Eurupean  style,  was  liberal,  but 
not  extravagant.  In  the  evening,  we  were  entertained  by  the  mem- 
bers of  the  prince's  school,  with  an  exercise  in  language,  copied  af- 
ter (he  one  which  his  Highness  witnessed  when  he  dined  with  us. 
It  was  not  a  little  pleasant  to  us,  to  hear  those  Muhammedan  schol- 
ars modestly  utter  their  very  well  composed  English  sentences. 
The  prince  remarked  freely  on  our  missionary  labors.  He  highly 
approved  them,  and  expressed  his  belief,  that  we  are  in  no  danger 
of  being  molested,  while  we  shall  continue  to  direct  our  attention 
and  efforts  mainly  to  the  benefit  of  the  Nestorians,  and  not  openly 
attack  the  religion  of  the  Muhammedans.  He  spoke  candidly,  and 
as  a  friend.  While  he  has  obviously  no  longer  much  attachment 
to  the  Muhammedan  system,  he  well  understands  and  fully  declared 
to  us,  that  the  time  has  not  yet  come  to  attack  that  system  openly 
in  Persia.  In  the  course  of  the  evening,  the  subject  of  the  manu- 
facture of  sugar  from  the  beet  was  introduced.  The  prince  stated, 
that  he  had  tried  the  experiment  on  a  small  scale,  but  was  unsuc- 
cessful, being  little  acquainted  with  the  process.  He  requested  us 
to  procure,  for  him  some  treatise  on  that  subject,  that  he  might  re- 
new the  experiment.  The  beet  of  a  superior  kind  is  abundant  in 
this  part  of  Persia.  His  Highness  declared,  that  he  had  seen  one, 
produced  in  the  district  of  Meandaub,  of  the  enormous  weight  of 
ninety  pounds ! 

Nov.  17.  The  prince  sent  word  to  me,  that,  as  he  is  soon  to 
leave  Oroomiah,  he  would  be  happy  to  come  and  dine  with  us  and 
spend  the  evening.  He  came,  and  demeaned  himself  as  in  former 
instances,  with  great  propriety  and  sociability.  He  has  for  some 
time  been  importuning  Mr.  Merrick  to  return  with  him  to  his  resi- 
dence at  Shishawan,  as  his  teacher,  and  Mr.  M.  has  concluded  to 
accept  the  invitation.  He  will  board  at  the  prince's  table,  and  at 
all  times  have  access  to  him  and  his  scholars.  The  hand  of  the 
Lord  is  very  perceptible  in  this  arrangement,  as  in  almost  every- 
thing else,  pertaining  to  our  missionary  work. 

Dec.  8.  In  addition  to  my  employment  in  translating  parts  of 
the  Scriptures,  which  occupies  most  of  my  time,  I  am  at  present 
engaged  also  in  the  translation  of  Peter  Parley's  Geography,  and 
Colburn's  First  Lessons  in  Arithmetic,  from  all  of  which  we  pre- 
pare reading  lessons,  on  cards,  for  our  schools.  T  am  often  amused 
by  the  inquiries  of  my  translators,  suggested  by  their  attention  to 


PKEDICTIONS  IN  RESPECT  TO  THE  WEATHER. 


329 


the  geography.  On  one  occasion,  they  soberly  asked  me,  whether 
Peter  Parley  is  not  one  of  the  American  saints,  supposing  that  such 
boundless  knowledge  as  his  book  displays,  could  be  possessed  by 
no  mortal  less  than  a  saint;  and  they  were  nmch  surprised,  when  I 
told  them  that  the  author  of  this  book  is  not  only  not  canonized, 
but  IS  still  living  and  not  yet  a  very  old  man.  I  embraced  the  op- 
portunity to  state  to  the  priests  that  the  Christians  in  America  whom 
we  represent,  unlike  those  in  Asia,  have  no  patron  saints;  and  re- 
ferred them  to  the  words  of  our  Lord,  "  call  no  man  master,"  which 
seemed  to  satisfy  them  on  the  subject.  We  find  the  works  of  Peter 
Parley  and  others  of  that  description,  very  valuable,  both  as  text- 
books for  those  who  are  studying  English  and  to  translate  for  read- 
ing lessons  in  the  native  language. 

Dec.  9.  Our  translators  offered  a  correction  of  Parley's  Geogra- 
phy, notwithstanding  their  admiration  of  his  sainted  infallibility. 
The  statement  that  "  the  white  bear  is  found  only  in  North  Ameri- 
ca," priest  Dunka  declared  erroneous,  asserting  that  he  had  him- 
self seen  white  bears  in  the  Koordish  mountains.  And  several  others 
of  whom  I  have  since  made  the  inquiry,  bear  the  same  testimony. 
The  author  will,  we  trust,  admit  the  correction,  coming  as  it  does 
from  some  of  his  most  ardent  admirers. 

Dec.  11.  A  Nestorian,  whom  we  visited,  inquired  of  me  whether 
it  be  a  fact,  that  there  are  mountains,  in  the  New  World,  which  dis- 
charge fire  from  their  tops.  He  said  his  son,  who  attends  our  semi- 
nary, had  told  him  that  one  of  his  lessons  contained  such' a  statement. 
It  is  cheering  to  see  the  elements  of  knowledge,  thus  beginning  to 
diflfuse  themselves,  like  the  silent  leaven,  among  this  ignorant,  de- 
graded people.  Our  host  was  equally  astonished  and  entertained 
with  the  account  of  volcanoes,  which  I  took  occasion  to  give  him, 
and  he  appeared  highly  pleased  with  the  prospect  of  his  son's  be- 
coming intelligent  on  such  subjects ;  nor  can  we  be  less  pleased 
with  such  a  prospect,  especially  when  we  consider  the  character  of 
their  own  literature.  We  called  a  few  moments  on  the  priest  of  the 
village.  In  conversation  on  the  severity  of  the  winter,  he  produced 
an  old  book,  which  professes  to  prognosticate  the  state  of  the  wea- 
ther and  casual  events  for  indefinite  future  periods.  As  I  opened 
the  book,  the  first  passage  which  met  my  eye,  was  the  following, 
viz.;  "If  the  fast,  preceding  Christmas,  happens  to  commence  on 
Sunday,  expect  a  hard  winter  and  much  snow,  followed  by  a  wet 
spring  and  a  sickly  summer."  Turning  to  another  place,  I  read, 
"If  on  the  first  Friday  of  the  moon,  its  corners  are  nearly  perpen- 
dicular, expect  a  famine,  wars  in  Turkey  and  the  birth  of  many 
children."  This  book  is  a  large  volume,  in  the  ancient  Syriac  lan- 
guage; and  it  appeared  to  be  made  up  of  naatter  of  the  same  gene- 
ral character  with  that  which  I  have  quoted.  The  copy  that  I  saw 
was  written  about  a  century  aero,  and  the  work  is  said  to  have  ex- 
isted  from  time  immemorial.  It  is  regarded  by  the  people,  some- 
what in  the  light  of  an  oracle,  exerts  much  influence  on  their  habits 

42 


330 


SERIOUS  SUBJECTS  IN  CONVIVIAL  SCENES. 


of  thinking  and  does  not  a  little  to  satisfy  them  with  their  ignorance- 
There  is  no  lack  of  such  literature  in  the  ancient  language  of  the 
Nestorians. 

Dec.  20.  An  unusually  large  quantity  of  wine  has  been  made  in 
this  country  during  the  past  season ;  and  the  consequence  is,  the 
most  appalling  prevalence  of  intemperance.  Our  translators  ex- 
pressed to  me,  to-day,  their  deep  sorrow  on  accouut  of  this  evil ; 
and  I  have  no  doubt  that  they  spoke  sincerely  ;  for  they  have  nearly 
abandoned  the  Use  of  wine.  I  told  them  that  I  supposed  many  of 
their  people  are  better  satisfied  to  suffer  the  numberless  evils  which 
strong  drink  is  bringing  upon  them,  than  they  would  be,  with  our 
practice  of  abstaining  from  it.  "  There  is  no  man  of  sense,"  said 
priest  Durrka,  "  who  does  not  heartily  approve  of  your  practice." 
"  But  we  have  multitudes  among  us,"  replied  priest  Abraham,  "who, 
if  an  angel  were  to  descend  from  heaven 'and  preach  temperance  to 
them,  would  not  abandon  their  cups."  Intemperance  is  said  to  be 
less  prevalent  back  in  the  mountains,  where  the  vine  is  little  culti- 
vated; but  whenever  the  wild  mountaineers  are  able  to  obtain  it, 
in  their  visits  to  this  land  of  plenty,  they  show  themselves  even  more 
mighty  than  the  people  here,  to  mingle  strong  drink. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

JOURNAL:    JANUARY— SEPTEMBER,  1838. 

I  ATTENDED  a  wedding,  Jan.  9,  at  the  house  of  Mar  Gabriel,  at 
Ardishai.  During  the  noise  and  confusion  of  eating  and  drinking, 
a  minstrel  sat  playing  on  a  rude  violin  and  singing  sacred  songs, 
composed  on  the  most  solemn  and  impressive  subjects  revealed  in 
the  Scriptures,  as  the  coming  of  Christ,  the  judgment  and  the  rich 
man  in  torment.  The  giddy  company  appeared  to  have  no  idea, 
that  there  was  any  incongruity  between  the  subjects  of  these  songs 
and  the  convivial  scenes,  in  which  they  were  so  eagerly  and  thought- 
lessly engaged.  And  this  is  not  strange,  considering  their  lack  of 
religious  instruction.  We  are,  however,  much  encouraged  by  their 
incipient  desire  to  learn  and  reform.  Our  scripture  tracts,  on  their 
prevalent  vices,  are  beginning  to  be  sought  by  them.  Priest  Abra- 
ham lately  told  me,  that  several  persons,  who  are  themselves  unable 
to  read,  had  requested  copies  of  the  tracts  on  intemperance,  lying, 
theft  and  swearing,  and  of  the  ten  commandments,  that  they  may 
keep  them  in  their  houses,  and  when  they  have  guests  from  among 
our  scholars,  or  the  clergy,  who  can  read,  they  may  thus  be  able  to 
listen  to  the  truths  of  the  gospel. 

We  are  happily  furnished  with  means  for  preparing  these  leaves 


TRACTS  DONATION  TO  THE  AM.  TRACT  SOCIETY.  331 


of  the  tree  of  life  and  from  a  source  quite  unexpected.  I  received, 
Feb.  8,  a  donation  of  forty  dollars  from  Dr.  Riacli  and  major  Wood- 
fall  for  the  American  Tract  Society, — the  fruit  of  their  interest  ex- 
cited by  the  perusal  of  the  Report  of  that  Society,  a  copy  of  which 
1  recently  sent  to  them. 

As  the  reader  may  be  interested  in  the  very  gentlemanly  and 
christian  manner  in  which  this  handsome  donation  was  communica- 
ted, I  will  here  insert  their  letter  which  accompanied  it. 

"Tabreez,  Jan.  16,  1838. 
To  the  Rev.  J.  Perkins,  American  missionary  at  Oroomiah, 

Dear  Sin, — The  undersigned  have  the  pleasure  to  request  that 
you  will  have  the  kindness  to  receive  the  donations  affixed  to  our 
respective  names,  which  we  wish  to  contribute  to  the  American 
Tract  Society.  We  are  induced  to  trouble  you  on  this  occasion, 
from  the  expectation  we  have,  that  it  is  in  your  power,  without  much 
inconvenience  to  yourself,  to  remit  the  sum  to  the  society  mention- 
ed, or  to  carry  it  in  your  accounts,  to  its  credit. 

It  is  with  great  delight  that  we  seize  this  opportunity  of  express- 
ing to  you  and  to  the  rest  of  our  friends  associated  with  you,  at  Oroo- 
miah, whom  we  consider  to  be  the  representatives  of  your  country, 
in  this  distant  land,  the  heartfelt  satisfaction  we  have  derived  from 
the  perusal  of  the  last  year's  Report  of  the  American  Tract  Society, 
which  you  kindly  sent  to  us,  and  we  look  forward  with  hope  to  the 
further  fruits  of  the  efforts  there  detailed,  having  thus  an  assurance, 
that  the  time  is  approaching,  when  Christians  will  consider  ail  man- 
kind as  brothers,  and  as  heirs  together  of  better  things  than  this  life 
affords. 

There  is  a  youthful  vigor  and  a  grandeur  in  the  exertions  which 
America  is  now  making,  to  remove  sin  and  misery  from  the  world, 
and  to  give  in  exchange  to  the  whole  hunaan  family  temporal  and 
spiritual  blessings,  the  contemplation  of  which  is  most  gratifying 
and  cheering  to  our  hearts;  and  we  gladly  adopt  the  present  occa- 
sion of  adding  our  little  mite  to  funds,  which  we  feel  have  hitherto 
been  so  wisely  and  efficiently  employed  in  the  great  cause. 

We  glory  in  your  country,  so  worthy  an  off-shoot  from  our  dear 
father-land,  for  having  so  decidedly  taken  the  first  place  among  the 
great  nations  of  the  world,  in  executing  the  departing  command  of 
our  blessed  Redeemer;  and  we  would  sincerely  pray,  that,  with 
God's  blessing,  on  his  children's  efforts,  in  both  countries,  England 
and  America,  may  join  together,  in  bonds  of  christian  charity,  and 
combining  their  united  strength,  for  the  purpose  of  advancing 
Christ's  kingdom,  maybe  the  happy  instruments  of  leading  millions 
in  our  own  and  other  countries  to  be  partakers  of  eternal  joys. 

We  are  with  great  esteem  and  affection,  Dear  Sir, 

Yo;irs  most  faithfully, 
(Sigtied)  Geo.  Woodfall,  Major, 

J.  P.  RiACH,  attached  to  H.  B.  M.  Legation.'" 


332  ACKNOWLEDGEMENT  CONTRIBUTIONS. 


The  following  is  my  note  in  reply  to  the  above  communication- 

"OroomiaJi,  Feb.  10,  1838. 

Messrs.  Woodfall  and  Riach,  etc. 

Deau  Sirs, — Your  favor  of  the  IGth  ult.  enclosing  to  my  address 
$40,  as  a  donation  to  the  American  Tract  Society,  came  duly  to 
hand.  You  impose  on  us  not  the  least  inconvenience,  by  sending 
your  donations  to  our  mission.  We  receive  appropriations  from 
the  American  Tract  Society  to  facilitate  our  operations,  and  we 
have  only  to  place  this  sum  to  the  Society's  account. 

Permit  nie  to  express  to  you  the  heart-felt  pleasure  afforded  to 
myself  and  my  associates,  by  this  demonstration  of  your  interest  in 
the  prosperity  of  the  philanthropic  society  to  whose  funds  you  so 
liberally  contribute — by  the  kind  regard  for  ourselves  which  you 
express  in  your  letter — and  by  the  generous — I  had  almost  said, 
flattering — tribute  of  respect  and  veneration  which  you  pay  to  our 
beloved  native  land. 

Your  letter — from  a  source  and  written  in  terms  which  must 
make  any  countrymen  of  ours,  whose  eye  it  may  meet,  feel  honestly 
proild  of  his  relationship  to  yours — 1  shall  take  the  liberty  to  trans- 
mit to  the  American  Tract  Society,  and  I  am  sure  that  the  official 
organs  of  that  Society  will  feel  the  sincerest  pleasure  in  gratefully 
acknowledging  your  generous  donation,  and  j'our  truly  christian 
interest  in  their  object  and  labors. 

Most  heartily  do  we  reciprocate  your  ardent  desire,  that  England 
and  America  may  advance,  hand  in  hand,  like  parent  and  child,  in 
the  great  work  of  diffusing  the  light  of  eternal  life  throughout  the 
world.  May  their  mighty  and  ample  energies  be  vigorously  roused 
and  efficiently  directed  to  this  blessed  work,  and  never  tire,  till  it 
shall  reach  its  glorious  consummation. 

Fervently  praying  that  the  luxury  of  doing  good  may  long  con- 
tinue to  be  yours,  and  with  the  assurance  of  my  unfeigned  regards, 
in  which  my  associates  join  me, 

I  remain  very  gratefully  yours, 
(Signed)  J.  Perkins." 

The  reader  who  is  familiar  with  the  operations  of  the  American 
Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions,  will  recal  many  in- 
stances in  which  noble-minded  Englishmen,  in  the  East,  high  in 
respectability,  rank  and  official  station,  have  generously  contributed 
to  the  funds  of  that  Board,  during  the  pressure  of  its  pecuniary  em- 
barrassments, within  the  last  few  years.  And  yet  far  more  valuable 
than  their  pecuniary  aid,  is  the  protection  and  general  encourage- 
ment which  such  Englishmen  extend  to  our  missionaries  in  Asia. 
What  American  would  not  gratefully  acknowledge  our  obligations 
thus  incurred,  reciprocate  the  kindly  sentiments  and  feelings  which 
they  manifest,  and  study  thus  indissolubly  to  cement  the  bonds  of 
brotherhood  that  so  properly  and  naturally  bind  the  two  countries — 
I  will  not  say,  nations — ^to  each  other. 


PREACHING  IN  THE  NESTORIAN  CHURCHES.  333 


Feb.  11.  Priest  Yohannan  stated  that  he  and  other  priests  had 
often  spoken  together  on  the  subject  of  my  going  into  their  cliurch 
in  the  cily,  every  Sabbath,  and  on  feast  days,  and  preaching  the  gos- 
pel to  their  people,  as  I  preach  to  the  members  of  the  seminary,  on 
our  premises;  and  that  they  were  unanimous  in  their  opinion,  that 
it  is  desirable  I  should  do  so.  This  proposition  is  peculiarly  inter- 
esting, coining  as  it  does  from  influential  ecclesiastics. 

We  had  long  preached  statedly  on  the  Sabbath  to  the  members 
of  our  seminary,  on  oar  premises,  e.xtensively  in  our  village  schools 
during  the  vi^eek,  and  more  or  less  in  an  informal  manner,  from 
house  to  house,  as  opportunities  occurred  and  our  other  labors  per- 
mitted. But  we  had  not  expected  at  present  to  enter  their  churches 
as  clergymen,  and  formally  proclaim  the  gospel ;  for  we  apprehended, 
that  the  native  ecclesiastics,  much  as  they  rejoiced  in  our  more  gene- 
ral labors,  might  regard  themselves  in  danger  of  being  undervalued  by 
their  people  in  their  clerical  capacity  5y  a  comparison  with  us,  and 
perhaps  take  offence  at  the  measure,  were  we  to  assume  the  attitude 
of  regular  preachers  in  their  churches.  We  were,  therefore,  hardly 
less  surprised  than  gratified,  by  the  request  of  the  most  intelligent 
and  influeniial  of  tliese  ecclesiastics,  whicli  gradually  grew  into  an 
importunity  that  would  take  no  denial,  that  we  should  enter  their 
churches  every  Sabbath,  and  proclaim  the  gospel  to  their  people. 
We  at  length  yielded,  though  with  some  diffidence  still,  and  were 
soon  invited  to  preach  in  far  more  churches  than  we  could  possibly 
occupy.  During  the  year  previous  to  nny  leaving  our  station,  those 
of  our  number  who  were  able  to  speak  the  language,  preached 
commonly  three  times,each  on  the  Sabbath,  to  as  many  different 
congregations,  situated  some  miles  distant  from  each  other ;  and 
occasionally,  we  yielded  to  the  importunity  of  the  clergy  of  other 
churches  still,  to  preach  the  gospel  to  their  people. 

Fvh.  13.  As  we  were  translating  the  part  of  Parley's  Geogra- 
phy on  South  Eastern  Asia,  the  mention  of  the  christian  mission- 
aries as  being  there,  attracted  the  notice  of  my  translators  to  the 
general  subject  of  missions.  They  were  much  interested  to  find 
that  English  and  American  missionaries  are  scattered  so  extensively 
over  the  world,  and  said  that  it  was  in  fulfilment  of  Christ's  com- 
mand, "  Go  teach  all  nations."  I  reminded  them  of  the  zeal,  in 
this  glorious  work,  which  early  characterized  the  Nestorian  church. 
"We  know  it,"  they  replied,  "  but  those  favored  days  with  us  are 
now  gone  by  ;  and  we  can  only  obey  that  other  saying  of  Christ, 
'  Cast  not  your  pearls  before  swine.'  Were  we  to  preach  the  gos- 
pel a  century  to  these  Mahammedans  around  us,  they  would  only 
revile  us  and  our  message,  and  perhaps  kill  us  in  return."  I  told 
them  that  I  conceived  the  most  effectual  means  of  preaching  the 
gospel  to  the  Muhaminedans,  to  be  a  holy  example  in  those  pro- 
fessing Christianity  who  live  among  them  ;  thnt,  should  the  followers 
of  the  Impostor  behold  nominal  Christians,  keeping  the  command- 
ments of  God,  they  would  soon  be  constrained  to  admire  the  religion 


334 


ANTEDILUVIAN  CHRONOLOGY. 


of  the  gospel,  and  we  might  hope  ultimately  to  embrace  it.  The 
idea,  which  seemed  new  to  the  priests,  struck  them  forcibly,  and  I 
improved  the  opportunity  to  remind  them  of  the  momentous  respon- 
sibility which  rests  on  tlierii  and  their  people  in  this  respect;  and  to 
leaxl  them  to  feel  that  as  Christians  are  the  light  of  the  world,  if  the 
light  which  is  in  them  is  darkness,  great  is  that  darkness.  We  are 
more  and  more  cheered  with  the  hope,  that  the  day  is  not  distant 
when  the  feeble  remaant  of  this  ancient  church  will  be  revived,  and 
again  engage  in  the  holy  work  of  spreading  the  knowledge  of  the 
gospel. 

Feb.  21.  lu  translating,  to-day,  a  point  in  chronology  occurred. 
The  Nestorians  suppose  that  near  seven  thousand  five  hundred  years 
have  elapsed,  since  the  creation,  reckoning  about  three  thousand 
years  to  the  period  before  the  flood.  I  told  my  translators,  that  our 
system  of  chronology  allows  but  sixteen  hundred  and  fifty-six  years 
to  have  elapsed  before  that  event.  They  expressed  their  surprise 
and  inquired  how  we  arrived  at  that  number,  asserting  with  an  air  of 
entire  confidence,  that  their  records  must  be  right.  "  The  Bible," 
said  I,  "  is  our  only  record  of  the  antediluvian  pyiod."  "Your 
Bible,"  tliey  replied,  "  must  then  differ  from  ours ;  and  we  shall  not 
allow  that  our  other  books,  which  assign  three  thousand  years  to 
that  period  are  mistaken,  until  our  Bible  proves  them  to  be  so." 
I  admitted  the  reasonableness  of  that  position,  and  proposed  to  ex- 
amine their  Scriptures  on  the  subject.  We  accordingly  turned  to 
the  fifth  chapter  of  Genesis,  where  the  ages  of  Adam  and  of  his  de- 
scendants down  to  Noah  are  given,  and  then  to  the  sixth  verse  of 
the  seventh  chapter  of  Genesis,  in  which  the  age  of  Noah  is  stated, 
at  the  time  of  the  flood;  and  by  adding  the  numbers  thus  obtained, 
from  their  Bible,  which  the  priests  were  able  to  do  in  their  own 
language,  the  amount  came  out  precisely  1656.  They  were  aston- 
ished and  confounded.  Priest  Abraham  acknowledged  the  accu- 
racy of  the  process;  but  priest  Dunka  demurred,  saying  that  while 
the  Bible  must  be  acknowledged  as  the  unerring  standard,  their 
other  books  being  thereby  found  erroneous,  notwithstanding,  still, 
he  thought  there  was  some  peculiar — perhaps  mysterious — method 
of  computing  chronology,  as  given  by  Moses,  in  the  fifth  chapter 
of  Genesis,  diflferent  from  our  method,  which  would  make  the 
amount  correspond  to  their  old  estimate.  I  requested  him  to  ex- 
amine the  point  carefully  at  his  leisure,  which  he  promised  to  do, 
and  proposed  that  we  should  recur  to  it  together  at  some  future 
time. 

Feb.  22.  Priest  Dunka,  of  his  own  accord,  introduced  the  sub- 
ject of  antediluvian  chronology,  stating  that  he  had  re-examined  it, 
and  found  the  result  at  which  we  arrived  the  other  day  to  be  entirely 
correct.  Not  long  since,  in  translating  geography,  this  same  priest 
remarked,  that  it  is  stated  in  their  books,  that  Arabia  is  the  largest 
country  in  the  world,  whereas,  he  knew  the  statement  to  be  erro- 
neous; for  be  himself  had  travelled  in  Russia  and  was  sure  that 


A  NKSTOniAN    r.lKI,  WITH  MKT!  0RNA14ENTS 


DONATION  FEMALE  ORXAMENTS. 


333 


that  country  is  larger  than  Arabia.  It  was  also  recently  the  frank 
admission  of  this  priest,  that  their  old  writers  sometimes  contradict 
each  other,  which  of  course,  said  tiie  priest,  proves  some  of  them  to 
be  mistaken.  These  cases  are  interesting,  as  they  render  the  er- 
rors in  the  old  books  of  the  Nestorians  palpable,  and  on  points  which 
cannot  be  considered  as  sectarian.  The  people  venerate  their  an- 
cient writers  as  all  but  inspired,  while  they,  at  the  same  time,  in 
theory  at  least,  hold  that  the  Bible  must  be  the  ultimate  standard. 
The  work  being  fairly  commenced,  in  such  instances  as  I  have 
named,  the  way  may  soon  be  opened,  to  prove  to  them  the  errors  of 
many  of  their  religious  traditions. 

Feb.  23.  Received  a  donation  of  twenty-five  dollars  from  Major 
Woodfall,  for  the  American  Board.  He  is  the  same  English  officer 
whom  I  have  already  mentioned  as  having  become  hopefully  pious 
during  a  short  residence  in  this  city,  and  was  one  of  the  donors  to 
the  Tract  Society  to  whose  generous  offering  to  that  cause  I  have 
also  referred.  It  is  pleasing  to  witness  benevolent  effort,  as  well  as 
the  other  christian  graces,  so  early,  delightfully  and  spontaneously 
developing  itself  in  Major  W.  Is  this  grace  sufficiently  inculcated, 
in  Christian  lands,  as  the  fruit  and' the  evidence  of  real  piety  ;  and 
its  absence  reproved  as  invalidating  a  christian  hope  ?  An  apos- 
tle dared  to  submit,  that  if  any  professing  Christian,  seeing  his 
brother  have  need,  shutteth  up  his  bowels  of  compassion,  how  dwell- 
eth  the  love  of  God  in  him  1  And  may  not  thfe  pastor  of  the  present 
day  say  as  much — nay,  is  he  excusable  for  saying  less — in  relation 
to  his  brethren  of  the  human  family,  who  are  famishing  for  want  of 
the  bread  of  heaven  ? 

March  7.  One  of  the  ladies  of  our  mission  repeated,  at  our  eve- 
ning exercise  in  languages,  the  direction  of  Paul  in  2  Timothy  2: 
9 — lO,  "  In  like  manner  also,  that  women  adorn  themselves  in  mod- 
est apparel,  with  shamefacedness  and  sobriety,  not  with  broidered 
hair,  or  gold;  or  costly  array,  but,  (which  becometh  women  profess- 
ing godliness,)  with  good  works.^''  This  Scripture  quotation  excit- 
ed much  attention  among  the  natives  who  were  present.  Nestorian 
girls,  and  women  to  the  age  of  middle  life,  are  very  fond  of  wearing 
jewels,  beads,  pieces  of  silver  money — base  coin  silver-washed,  and 
other  rude  trinkets,  on  their  heads,  about  their  persons,  and  even  in 
their  noses.  The  accompanyitig  drawing  is  intended  to  represent 
a  Nestorian  girl  thus  ornamented.  The  whole  paraphernalia,  in- 
cluding all  those  mentioned  and  the  girdle  and  rings  about  the  wrists 
and  ancles,  sometimes  amount  to  the  enormous  weight  of  ten  or 
twelve  pounds. 

I  have  often  referred  to  the  Scripture  quoted  above,  and  to  the 
language  of  Isaiah,  on  the  same  subject,  in  conversation  with  the 
Nestorians  in  our  family ;  and  the  effect  has  been  encouraging. 
John,  our  boy,  told  me,  a  few  days  ago,  that  his  aged  father  would 
not  allow  his  sister,  wlfo  was  recently  married,  to  wear  any  orna- 
ments on  the  occasion  ;  because  the  practice  is  contrary  to  the  Bi' 


336 


APPREHENSIONS  FEMALE  EDUCATION. 


hh,  and  the  missionary  ladies  wear  none.  This  was  taking  high 
ground,  considering  the  force  of  such  customs  among  the  Nestorifins. 

March  9.  Priest  Abraham  informed  me,  that  he  had  just  de- 
stroyed his  wife's  trinkets — adding  that  he  liad  not  allowed  her  to 
wear  them  for  a  long  time ;  but  that  he  now  saw  the  Scriptures  to 
be  so  full  and  strong  against  them,  he  would  have  them  no  longer 
in  her  possession. 

March  10.  We  received  a  reply  from  the  parents  of  Joseph,  to 
■whom  we  had  submitted  the  proposition  of  taking  their  son  into  one 
of  the  families  of  the  mission.  The  proposition  was  negatived  by 
the  parents,  on  account  of  their  apprehension,  that  we  are  training 
such  scholars — those  who  live  in  our  families — with  the  design  of 
sending  them  off  to  the  New  World.  Similar  <ipprchcnsions  have 
occasionally,  from  the  first,  been  expressed  by  the  limid  Nestorians; 
and  parents  have  sometimes  taken  their  children  suddenly  from  our 
schools,  when  such  rumora  have  been  revived,  and  restored  them 
again,  after  a  few  days,  as  the' reports  .subsided.  It  is  extremely  diffi- 
cult, in  these  benighted  lands,  where  xrlfishncss  is  so  predominant,  to 
convince  people,  that  labors,  like  ours,  are  prompted  by  disinterested 
motives.  I  inquired  of  priest  Abraham,  to-day,  whether  his  people 
regard  us  as  so  dishonest,  as  to  be  mon-stnalcrH ;  to  which  he  art- 
lessly replied,  that  it  is  natural  for  those  who  are  dishonest  them- 
selves, which,  he  said,  is  the  case  with  many  of  the  Nestorians,  to 
think  all  others  so;  but  their  apprehensions  respecting  their  chil- 
dren, he  added,  arises  mainly  from  their  ignorance  and  the  cruel 
treatment  which  they  receive  from  their  Mohammedan  masters,  who 
sometimes  steal,  or  at  least  decoy  from  their  homes,  Nestorian  chil- 
dren. The  priest  also  stated,  that  the  people  of  his  own  village  and 
others  who  know  most  of  us,  have  now  ceased  to  feel  any  such  ap- 
prehensions, and  cherish  unlimited  confidence  in  us  and  our  object. 

March  1^.  My  birth-day  is  in  diis  instance  marked  by  the  pleas- 
ing circumstance  of  the  commencement  of  a  female  boarding-school, 
on  the  mission  premises.  The  idea  of  educating  females,  which  was 
so  strana^e  to  the-Nestorians,  when  we  reached  Oroomiah,  is  now  be- 
coming  a  favorite  one.  We  have,  for  a  considerable  time,  had  a 
few  girls,  both  in  our  seminary  and  the  village  schools;  as  we  pre- 
ferred that  they  should  attend  with  the  boys  rather  than  be  separa- 
ted, apprehending  that  the  establishment  of  a  female  school,  dis- 
tinctively such,  might  excite  undue  notoriety  and  perhaps  opposi- 
tion, were  it  to  be  prematurely  attempted.  Now,  the  Nestorians 
who  have  become  acquainted  with  us,  seem  to  be  fully  prepared  to 
sustain  the  measure,  and  the  ecclesiastics  connected  with  our  fami- 
lies are  active  in  recommending  it. 

The  scene  is  as  grateful  as  it  is  novel,  in  benighted  Persia,  to  be- 
hold Nestorian  mothers  leading  their  little  girls  to  school,  and  often 
lingering,  a  half  hour,  with  delightful  interest,  to  hear  them  read. 
Notwithstanding  their  hard  lot, — their  not  t)eing  allowed  to  eat  with 
the  men — their  laboring  in  the  fields — their  ignorance  and  general 


NESTOHIAW   MOTHKK  .V  llt  H  LJTTI.K  MHI. 


DESIRE  FOR  RESPECTABILITY  ORDINATION.  337 


degradation,  Nestorian  feipales  still  possess  some  very  interesting 
traits  of  character.  I  have  never  seen  mothers  more  affectionately 
attached  to  their  children  than  among  this  people.  And  the  bar- 
barous practice  of  the  girls,  loading  themselves  with  rude  ornaments, 
arises  from  a  praiseworthy  desire  for  respectability.  Under  their 
intolerable  burdens,  there  is  still  a  spark  of  noble  aspiration  to  be 
something.  And  knowing  nothing  of  the  value  of  accomplishment 
yf  character,  they  develop  this  commendable  ambition,  as  naturally 
as  strongly,  in  their  rude  attempts  to  decorate  their  persons. 

We  may  properly  regard  our  female  boarding-school  as  one  of 
the  most  hopeful  departments  of  our  missionary  work.  The  condi- 
tion of  females,  being,  in  any  country,  the  measure  as  well  as  the 
index  of  the  elevation  of  society,  just  as  fast  as  we  are  able  to  raise 
them,  among  the  Nestorians,  the  other  sex  will  necessarily  rise. 
The  girls,  here,  as  everywhere,  are  also  much  more  docile  and 
tractable  than  the  boys,  and  not  at  all  behind  the  latter,  in  their 
aptness  to  learn.  The  subject  of  wearing  ornaments,  having  been 
discussed,  as  above  mentioned,  by  some  of  the  natives,  the  members 
of  our  female  boarding-school,  at  length  laid  theirs  all  aside,  with- 
out any  interference  from  us  on  the  subject.  The  living  example 
of  the  ladies  of  our  mission,  I  haidly  need  say,  does  more  than  al- 
most any  amount  of  teaching  or  preaching,  without  this,  would  be 
able  to  effect,  for  the  improvement  of  their  condition  and  prospects. 

March  18.  Our  biblical  exexcise  with  the  natives,  to-day,  was 
•on  the  third  chapter  of  Revelation,  a  part  of  the  searching  addresses 
of  our  Lord  to  the  churches.  Nothing  can  be  more  appropriate 
for  the  Nestorians  than  the  messages  to  the  churches  of  Saxdis  and 
Laodicea.  The  Nestorians  have  also  a  name  to  live  and  are  dead 
— and  they  are  "  neither  cold  nor  hot."  The  bishop  and  priests 
who  were  present  appeared  fully  to  understand  the  strong  figurative 
language  of  those  addresses,  but,  alas,  they  are  slow  to  n?ake  the 
proper  application.  As  a  member  of  our  mission  recently  remark- 
ed, they  seem  to  be  so  dead,  that  while  the  sword  of  the  Spirit  is 
thrust  through  and  through  them,  it  produces  almost  no  sensation. 
Till  the  Spirit  of  God  shall  wield  his  own  sword,  it  will  never  be 
felt — Dor  slay  that  it  may  make  alive. 

March  23.  Was  the  time  appointed  by  the  friends  of  Joseph,  the 
boy  above-named,  for  his  ordination,  as  deacon  ;  in  which  capacity 
he  was  expected  to  become  the  daily  reader  of  the  devotions  of  the 
church  of  bis  village  and  cease  attending  our  seminary.  Most  of 
the  Nestorian  ecclesiastics  aje  ordained  while  mere  boys.  Their 
readers  being  few,  they  often  need  their  ser-vices  before  they  arrive 
at  adult  years  ;  and  as  they  attach  very  little  sacredness  to  their  re- 
JigiouB  forms,  destitute  as  they  are  of  spiritual  views  and  feelings, 
they  conceive  no  impropriety  in  committing  those  forms  to  the  hands 
of  childrejQ.  Joseph's  friends  kad,  however,  hastened  his  ordina- 
tion, (he  is  now  eleven  or  twelve  years  old,)  in  consequence  of  their 
apprehension,  tJhat,  should  he  continue  to  prosecute  his  studies,  he 

43 


338     CAMPAIGN  AT  HERAT  CASTING  CANNON  MOUNDS. 


might  be  sent  off  to  the  New  World.  But  the  boy  being  apprized 
of  the  intention  of  his  friends,  and  having  a  strong  desire  to  pursue 
his  education,  ran  away,  early  this  morning  and  hid  himself  to 
avoid  his  ordination  !  He  Wtts  at  length  found  and  was  soon  back  at 
school,  by  the  pern:iission  of  his  parents,  determined  to  prosecute 
his  studies  at  all  events. 

March  28.  One  of  our  scholars,  the  brother  of  a  bishop  who  re- 
sides in  the  Koordish  mountains,  not  far  from  JuJamerk,  obtained 
permission  to  go  home,  on  account  of  the  death  of  a  relative.  A 
deacon  came  after  him,  who  begged  of  me  a  Bible  and  a  copy  of 
the  Psalms,  stating  that  he  has  a  small  school  at  his  home,  and  is 
almost  destitute  of  books  for  his  scholars.  It  is  pleasant  thus  to 
send  forth  the  word  of  life  into  those  regions  where  the  missionary 
himself  cannot  properly  venture.    "  The  word  of  God  is  not  bound." 

April  3.  At  a  late  exercise  of  our  school  in  declamation,  a  priest 
of  this  city  was  present,  who  is  notoriously  "  given  to  much  wine," 
and  even  stronger  drink.  One  of  the  scholars  declaimed  the  short 
tract,  on  the  subject  of  intemperance,  which  is  made  up  entirely  of 
quotations  from  the  Bible.  The  priest  was  so  struck  with  the  force 
of  Scripture  truth  thus  presented,  that  at  the  close  of  the  exercise, 
he  requested  of  me  copies  of  that  tract, — also  copies  of  our  tracts 
on  other  prevalent  vices,  for  his  family,  and  another  set  for  his  dea- 
con and  a  third  to  be  kept  and  read  in  his  church. 

April  5.  The  issue  of  the  king's  campaign  against  Herat  is  yet 
doubtful.  The  last  intelligence  reports  him  as  still  under  the  walls 
of  that  city,  his  efforts  to  take  it  having  hitherto  proved  ineffectual. 
The  Persians  are  feeble  warriors  before  the  bold  and  bloody  Aff- 
ghans — and  would  be  much  more  so,  before  the  science  and  prac- 
tice of  Europeans.  They  have,  however,  had  the  enterprise,  du- 
ring the  past  winter,  to  cast  a  forty-two  pounder  in  the  king's  camp, 
and  are  about  to  cast  another.  In  the  deficiency  of  material,  for 
the  purpose,  in  that  desert  region,  they  robbed  the  mules  and  camels 
in  the  great  caravans,  of  their  hells  !  Much  uncertainty  hangs  over 
the  political  prospects  of  this  country.  Internal  commotions,  in 
connexion  with  foreign  war,  seem  almost  inevitable.  We  know, 
however,  that  he  who  ruleth  among  the  nations,  will  order  all  things 
right,  and  never  forget  the  welfare  of  hig  kingdom. 

April  19.  We  visited  the  village  of  Gfeog-tapa  by  special  invita- 
tion, this  week  being  the  festival  of  Easter.  The  beautiful  swell, 
back  of  the  village,  now  presents  a  full  claim  to  its  poetical  name — 
cerulean  hill — being  clothed  with  the  rich  carpet  of  spring.  It  is 
one  of  the  largest  of  those  artificial  mounds,  of  which  there  are 
many  on  the  plain  of  Oroomiah,  supposed  to  have  been  accumula- 
ted by  the  ancient  fire-worshippers.  These  mounds  are  often  par- 
tially excavated,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  the  soil,  for  manure, 
as  well  as  stones  for  building,  from  the  old  walls  imbedded  in  them. 
A  few  days  since,  in  excavating  the  side  of  the  hill  at  Gfiog-tapa,  a 
discovery  was  made,  which  has  not  a  little  roused  the  curiosity  and 


EXCAVATIONS  RELICS. 


339 


speculation  of  the  simple-hearted  villagers.  The  excavator  reached 
a  stone  tomb,  about  forty  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  hill,  in  which 
he  found  a  human  skeleton  and  in  its  skull,  several  copper  spikes, 
from  four  to  five  inches  long.  He  took  out  the  spikes  and  careful- 
ly replaced  the  skull  in  its  bed,  regarding  it  as  highly  sacrilegious  to 
disturb  the  bones  and  ashes  of  the  dead.  Mar  Elias,  the  bishop  re 
sident  in  that  village,  presented  to  me  one  of  the  spikes,  which  he 
had  obtained  from  the  discoverer.  A  thick  coat  of  verdigris  had 
formed  on  it,  though  copper,  it  is  well  known,  long  resists  decom- 
position. The  bishop  told  me  that  the  popular  explanation  of  the 
whole  matter,  among  the  villagers,  is,  that  the  person  to  whom  the 
skull  belonged,  when  alive,  was  a  wicked,  oppressive  ruler ;  and 
that  the  angels  of  God  were  commissioned  to  destroy  him,  by  dart- 
ing the  sj)ikes  through  his  head  !  Such  an  explanation  would  of 
course  be  more  naturally  suggested  to  the  superstitious  Nestorians, 
groaning  under  the  rigors  of  oppression,  than  to  people  in  different 
circumstances.  Mar  Elias  declared  his  rejection  of  it  as  rather 
puerile,  and  Mar  Yohannan,  who  was  also  present,  pronounced  it 
too  foolish  to  repeat;  and  both  took  special  pains  to  assure  us,  that 
they  adopt  no  such  explanations.  1  suggested  to  them,  that  the 
tomb  may  have  been  the  work  of  the  ancient  fire-worshippers,  and 
driving  nails  into  the  head,  their  method  of  destroying  their  enemies 
or  their  victims.  With  this  view,  the  bishops  readily  coincided ; 
and  they  were  particularly  interested,  when  I  referred  to  the  fact 
stated  in  Judges  4:  21, — "  Then  Jael,  Heber's  wife  took  a  nail  of 
the  tent  and  took  a  hammer  in  her  hand,  and  went  softly  unto  him 
and  smote  the  nail  into  his  temples,  and  fastened  it  into  the  ground  ; 
for  he  was  fast  asleep  and  weary;  so  he  died" — and  remarked  to 
them,  that  perhaps  this  Scripture  is  illustrated  by  their  discovery  in 
the  excavation,  though  the  nail  of  the  tent  was  probably  a  wooden 
pin.  "  I  told  the  discoverer,"  said  Mar  Elias,  "  to  let  me  give  you 
one  of  the  nails,  and  you  would  make  it  explain  the  Bible." 

A  few  days  ago,  our  Persian  Meerza  incidentally  stated,  that  in 
excavating  the  side  of  another  mound,  which  is  situated  about  twelve 
miles  from  the  one  above-mentioned,  a  few  years  ago,  an  earthen  pot 
of  silver  coins  of  some  European  stamp  was  found  ;  and  near  that,  a 
large  earthen  sarcophagus,  containing  a  human  skeleton,  with  nails 
driven  into  the  skull !  Coincidences  that  may  lead  to  interesting 
discoveries. 

Much,  however,  as  our  antiquarian  curiosity  was  excited  by  the 
incidents  of  to-day,  we  were  still  more  interested  to  observe  how 
careful  the  Nestorian  bishops  were,  that  we  should  not  be  left  to 
suppose  them  inclined  to  listen  to  "  old  wives'  fables,"  and  the  in- 
dications thus  afforded,  that  they  are  abandoning  such  fables,  with 
which  they  have  hitherto  been  so  fully  encurpbered,  and  are  begin- 
ning to  rest  their  belief  on  more  rational,  and  especially  on  more 
scriptural,  groCind. 

July  9.    The  English  ambassador  has  issued  orders  that  all  the 


340 


POLITICAL  RUPTURE  COURIERS. 


British  officets  in  this  country,  shall  pfepate  to  leave  it ;  and  our  mis- 
sion sent  me  to  Tabreez  to  make  arrangements  for  our  protection  in 
their  absence.  One  of  our  English  friends  has  elicited  the  assur- 
ance from  the  Russian  representatives  here,  that  they  are  ready  to 
protect  us.  But  the  transfer  of  our  relation  cannot  well  be  made  until 
the  English  ambassador  shall  arrive,  who  is  expected  to  be  here  soon. 
War  seems  inevitable  and  near,  between  England  and  Persia.  The 
English  demand  the  abandonment  of  the  siege  of  HerSt  and  satis- 
faction for  abuse  offered  by  a  Persian  officer  to  a  courier  of  the  am- 
bassador. I  have  been,  informed  that  the  inhabitants  of  Herat  now 
have  on  hand  a  stock  of  provisions,  sufficient  to  last  them  a  long 
time;  that  they  have  constructed  subterranean  passages  by  which 
they  reach  the  Persian  camp,  surprise  the  troops,  seize  their  arms 
and  make  fearful  havoc ;  and  are  also  able  to  communicate  abroad 
and  procure  additional  supplies,  in  case  of  necessity.  It  is  further 
stated  that  the  fortifications  of  HerUt  are  so  strong,  that  the  Persians, 
by  no  efforts  whatever,  can  make  any  serious  impression  upon  them. 
Add  to  all  this,  the  bold,  warlike  character  of  the  Affghans,  aided 
and  encouraged  by  the  counsels  and  labors  of  the  intrepid  Lieut. 
Pottinger,  an  English  adventurer,  who  has  been  with  them  for 
months,  and  the  prospisct  of  the  Shih's  taking  the  city  is  hopeless 
enough,  blindly  as  he  is  bent  upon  it,  being  urged  on,  as  it  is  said, 
by  the  Russian  ambassador. 
The  courier,  above-mentioned,  was  bearing  despatches  from  Aff- 

ghanistan  to  Persia.  In  passing  the  royal  camp,  he  was  seized  by 
[ajee  Khan,  a  brigadier  general,  and  beaten  and  threatened  with 
death,  being  suspected  of  conveying  to  the  English  ambassador  ad- 
vices from  the  Heritees.  The  cannina  Persian  knew  well  the 
power  of  compliments  in  his  country.  To  the  general's  threat,  that 
he  would  cut  off  his  head,  with  a  most  submissive  bow  he  promptly 
replied,  "  I  am  your  sacrifice ;  and  shall  be  most  highly  honored  to 
die  by  the  hands  of  so  exalted  an  executioner !"  The  insult  was  a 
very  serious  one  to  the  English,  identified  as  the  messenger  always 
is,  in  this  feudal  country,  with  those  who  send  him, — being,  in  fact, 
in  this  case,  to  the  ambassador,  what  the  latter  is  to  his  government. 

Chdpp&rs,  (runners,  or  couriers,)  are  an  important  class  in  Per- 
sia. They  ride  heavily  armed  and  with  great  speed,  bering  furnish- 
ed with  relays  every  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles,  which  are  kept 
ready  at  the  Chappar-khana,  or  post-house,  by  persons  appointed 
for  the  purpose,  who  receive  a  stated  remuneration.  The  king  em- 
ploys a  great  number  of  couriers,  whom  he  despatches,  both  pe- 
riodically and  occasionally,  to  convey  orders  and  messages  all  over 
his  kingdom.  And  governors  of  districts  and  provinces  adopt  the 
same  system,  on  a  scale  corresponding  to  the  extent  of  their  re- 
spective jurisdictions.  They  also  send  messengers  both  regularly 
and  occasionally,  to  their  superiors  to  whom  they  are  expected  to 
report  the  news  of  the  day  and  the  state  of  their  administration. 
Travellers,  by  procuring  ah  order  from  goTcrnnrent,  may  be 


SUDDEN  DEATH  CONDOLENCE  ENTERTAINMENT.     34 1 


furnished  wHh  chftppar  horses,  on  their  journies,  for  a  few  cents 
per  mile.  The  rate  of  travelling,  by  this  method,  is  from  seven- 
ty to  one  hundred  miles  a  day.  A  sitrjte  {driver,  or  postillion,) 
accompanies  the  courier,  on  another  horse,  and  conducts  both  back 
to  the  station.  The  cdsid,  or  foot-messenger,  is  extensively  em- 
ployed by  merchants  and  others,  in  Persia,  to  carry  letters;  he 
travels  from  forty  to  sixty  miles  per  day, — being  clothed  in  rags  that 
he  may  not  attract  notice,  nor  tempt  the  cupidity  of  robbers. 

Sept.  19.  Our  nearest  Muhammedan  neighbor — a  fine  young 
man — was  thrown  from  a  young  horse,  and  so  much  injured,  that 
he  died  in  an  hour  or  two  after  the  fall.  During  the  present  sea- 
son, he  h.is  been  very  busily  engaged  in  enlarging  and  repairing  his 
house,  and  this  evening,  his  espousal  was  to  have  been  celebrated. 
In  an  hour,  ho^x  changed  the  scene!  His  house  is  now  the  abode 
of  lamentation  and  wailing,  so  loud  as  to  be  dis^tinctly  heard  in  our 
own  dwelling.  Among  the  Persians,  grief,on  such  occasions,  whether 
real  or  feigned,  is  expressed  by  boisterous  vociferation,  accompanied 
with  beating  the  breast,  pulling  the  hair  and  rending  the  garments, 
as  was  the  case  with  the  Jews  of  old  and  is  etill  true  of  all  orientals. 

Sept.  20.  Early  this  morning,  two  Moollahs  ascended  upon  the 
roof  of  our  deceased  neighbor,  and  with  the  plaintive  strains  of  their 
shrill  voices  recapitulated  the  circumstances  of  his  death  and  made 
dolorous  comments,  to  renew  the  lamentation, — a  practice  which 
is  universal,  among  the  Muhammedans  in  Persia.  A  little  after 
sunrise,  the  corpse  was  borne  out,  not  to  be  buried,  but  to  be  de- 
posited for  a  time  in  a  mosk,  after  which  it  is  to  be  removed  to  Kir- 
bula,  the  hallowed  cemetery  near  Bagdad,  to  which  multitudes  of 
the  wealthy  from  all  these  regions,  are  annually  transported.  When 
the  corpse  was  carried  from  the  house  to  the  niosk,  the  garments  of 
the  deceased  were  spread  upon  a  fine  horse  which  preceded,  and 
the  procession  moved  on,  at  the  hoarse  blast  of  trumpets,  accompa- 
nied wifh  chanting  and  wailing, — all  being  intended  to  give  effect 
to  the  occasion.  '  The  mourners  went  about  the  streets.'  And 
during  the  day,  numbers  of  Khans,  Moollahs  and  others  called  at 
the  house,  to  condole  with  the  bereaved  relatives. 

As  the  deceased  was  our  neighbor,  I  also  called,  with  one  of  my 
associates,  just  at  evening,  to  express  our  sympathy  with  the  family 
in  their  affliction.  A  large  hall  was  still  filled  with  Persian  guests, 
most  of  them  Moollahs.  'Soon  after  we  were  seated,  rose-water 
was  brought  and  poured  into  our  hands.  Having  no  beards  to  scent, 
we  rubbed  it  upon  our  mustaches.  We  were  als-o  treated  to  coffee. 
Entertainments  hardly  accord  with  our  ideas  of  the  solemnity  suita- 
ble to  such  occasions.  There  was,  however,  no  levity  apparent  in 
the  company.  When  we  expressed  our  condolence  to  the  head  of 
the  family,  an  uncle  of  the  deceased,  he  replied  by  thanking  us  and 
assuring  us  of  his  strong  attachment  to  us,  as  friends  and  neighbors; 
and  the  chief  Moollah  present,  interrupted,  with  a  loud  voice,  and 


342       THE  CHILDREN  OF  MISSIONARIES  SUFFERINGS. 


much  apparent  sincerity,  "  Who  is  not  attached  to  these  men,  who 
have  come  among  us,  to  do  the  work  of  God  ?"  From  any  but  an 
Asiatic''s  tongue,  this  language,  in  the  earnest  manner  in  which  it 
was  uttered,  would  have  conveyed  mtich  meaning.  Nor  have  we 
any  reason  to  think  lightly  of  it  from  this  Moollah,  except  our  know- 
ledge of  the  general  treachery  of  Persian  character.  It  is  at  least 
due  to  the  Muhammedans  of  Oroomiah — especially  to  the  higher 
classes,  Moollahs  as  well  as  others — to  acknowledge  that  they  treat 
us  with  much  kindness  and  respect,  which,  in  our  remote,  depen- 
dent situation  is  a  great  favor  and  matter  of  unfeigned  oratitude  to 
God. 

Sept.  23.  To-day,  five  infants — children  of  members  of  our  mis- 
sion— were  baptized.  These  children  were  all  born  within  the  pe- 
riod of  two  months,  and  in  two  instances,  (in  one,  a  pair  of  twins,) 
two  were  born  on  the  same  day.  Precious  as  are  these  gifts  of  our 
heavenly  Father,  especially  in  our  separation  from  country  and 
home,  we  still  cannot  help  feeling  a  deeply  painful  solicitude  for 
them,  in  this  sickly  climate,  and  yet  more,  on  account  of  their  moral 
exposures,  in  this  benighted  land.  As  the  subject  of  the  children 
of  missionaries  is  one  of  general  interest,  T  insert  here  some  of  the 
leading  thoughts  which  I  presented  on  the  occasion  of  their  baptism. 

The  circumstances  of  the  children  of  missionaries  are  peculiarly 
trying,  and  such  as  should  naturally  and  strongly  commend  them  to 
the  sympathy  and  the  prayers  of  Christians.  These  children  are 
always  exposed  to  a  greater  amount  of  physical  suffering,  than  chil- 
dren in  our  native  land.  They  are  the  victims  of  some  of  the  same 
causes  which  work  the  early  prostration  and  premature  death  of 
missionaries  themselves.  They  are  exotic  plants.  The  lands  in 
which  they  are  born  are  not  strictly  their  native  lands.  The  cli- 
mate is  generally  more  or  less  uncongenial,  and  often  decidedly  hos- 
tile, to  the  children  even,  of  foreigners.  The  sad  experience  of  seve- 
ral English  ambassadors  to  this  country,  on  this  point,  has  led  thera 
to  the  conclusion,  that  it  is  impracticable  for  Europeans  to  rear  fami- 
lies in  Persia;  and  our  own  experience  is  a  sad  confirmation  of  the 
correctness  of  that  conclusion. 

Many  of  the  lands,  to  which  our  missionaries  go,  are  often 
scourged  by  "the  pestilence  that  walketh  in  darkness,  and  the  de- 
struction that  wasteth  at  noon-day,"  and  the  children  of  missiona- 
ries are  sometimes  numbered  among  its'victims.  And  some  of  our 
missionaries  are  situated  where  medical  relief,  in  case  of  the  sick- 
ness of  their  children,  cannot  be  obtained.  Our  own  first-born 
died  suddenly  at  Tabreez,  as  I  have  stated,  of  a  disease  which 
might  at  least  have  been  greatly  mitigated  by  judicious  prescription; 
but  there  vvas  no  physician,  who  could  understand  our  language, 
within  four  hundred  miles  of  us;  and  we  were  in  similar  circum- 
stances, during  the  sickness  and  death  of  our  third  child.  The 
case  of  these  children,  then,  appeals  tenderly  for  a  special  interest 


PBXVATIONS  MORAL  EXPOSURES. 


343 


in  the  prayers  of  Christians,  that  they  may  be  saved  from  such  an 
amount  of  physical  suffering,  or  prepared  by  grace  to  sustain  it — 
and  for  the  early  removal  which  awaits  so  many  of  them. 

The  children  of  missionaries  also  necessarily  suffer  the  privation 
of  many  privileges,  enjoyed  by  children  in  our  native  land.  These 
privations  are  more  and  greater  than  can  be  told.  What,  for  in- 
stance, are  ihe  intellectual  advantages  enjoyed  by  these  children  ? 
In  general,  they  have  no  school,  no  teacher,  and  no  instruction,  ex- 
cept the  very  limited  amount  which  the  missionary  himself  commu- 
nicates, during  the  few  moments  which  he  is  able,  with  the  utmost 
difficulty  and  but  very  irregularly,  to  redeem  from  his  pressing 
care  and  toil  for  the  salvation  of  the  perishing  around  him. 

These  children  also  fail  of  those  provisions  for  comfortable  sub- 
sistence in  life,  which  religion  and  common  prudence,  so  far  from 
condemning,  naturally  dictate  to  parents  in  christian  lands.  The 
faithful  missionary  relinquishes  every  earthly  prospect,  and  rejo  ces 
to  receive  nothing  but  the  most  sparing  subsistence  for  himself  and 
his  family,  while  he  labors  as  the  agent  of  the  churches.  We  would 
not  regard  this  want  of  a  temporal  provision  as  an  irreparable  ca- 
lamity to  his  children.  On  the  contrary,  this  example  of  consecra- 
tion in  the  parent,  may  prove  the  most  valuable  patrimony  which 
he  could  leave  to  his  offspring.  But  the  privation  should  at  least 
bespeak  the  earnest  prayers  of  Christians  for  these  children,  that 
they  may  be  benefitted  by  that  example,  that  they  may  not  fail  also 
of  the  "  durable  riches," — of  laying  up  "  treasures  in  heaven." 

The  children  of  missionaries  are  most  alarmingly  exposed  to 
moral  contamination.  So  far  as  residence  is  concerned,  they  are 
upon  a  level  with  the  benighted  around  them.  Nothing  but  the^ 
single  taper  of  the  missionary's  own  example  shines  upon  their  path- 
way. All  else  is  deep  darkness.  They  feel  nothing  of  the  pure 
moral  atmosphere  of  enlightened  christian  lands.  Every  man, 
every  child  whom  they  meet,  is  a  sower  of  tares.  They  cannot  step 
from  their  parent's  dwelling  without  being  in  peril.  The  universal 
example  abroad  is  supreme  selfishness  and  corruption.  The  very 
hum  of  the  native  language  is  surcharged  with  obscenity,  falsehood, 
profaneness  and  irreligion.  The  peril  is  much  nearer.  The  do- 
mestic— the  nurse,  who  enters  the  missionary's  abode  to  assist  the 
sick  mother,  brings  with  her  the  deadly  poison  ;  and  ere  he  is  aware, 
there  is  painful  evidence  that  it  has  been  too  successfully  adminis- 
tered to  his  unsuspecting  children.  It  is  not  long  ago,  that  a  pain- 
ful case  occurred,  in  a  pious  English  family  in  Persia.  The  pa- 
rents had,  with  much  pains-taking,  secured  the  services  of  a  Muham- 
medan  domestic,  whose  kind  attention  to  their  little  one  for  some  time 
created  in  them  only  increased  confidence  and  satisfaction.  But 
how  were  they  surprised  and  shocked,  on  one  day  finding  their  little 
girl,  then  four  years  old,  kneeling'' with  her  face  towards  Mecca,  and 
lisping  the  devotions  of  the  False  Prophet ! 

Such  constant  and  appalling  exposure  of  the  children  of  mission- 


344  EXPOSURES  AT  HOME  OBJECTS  OF  INTEREST. 


aries  appeals  with  an  eloquence  which  nothing  else  can,  for  the 
prayers  of  Christians,  that  the  Lord,  who  alone  can  afford  them 
effectual  succor,  would  shield  them  from  the  threatening  destruc- 
tion. The  fact  that  so  many  judicious  missionaries  deem  it  to  be 
their  duty  to  part  with  their  children  and  send  tliem  home,  for  pre- 
paration to  obtain  a  comfortable  subsistence  and  to  be  useful  in  fu- 
ture life,  and  for  security  from  hostile  influences,  speaks  volumes 
on  this  subject.  What  but  a  sense  of  dire  necessity  could  impel 
them,  so  early,  to  transfer  the  tender  trust  which  Providence  so  pe- 
culiarly commits  to  their  own  guardianship,  to  other  hands']  And 
but  imperfectly  indeed  are  these  expwDsures  and  privations  remedied, 
in  the  case  of  those  children  who  go  to  the  land  of  their  kindred. 
The  generous  kindness  and  assiduity,  which  they  so  promptly  re- 
ceive from  Christians  at  home,  are  certainly  above  all  praise.  But 
what  can  make  up  for  the  absence  of  parental  influence,  watchful- 
ness, affection  and  fidelity,  at  that  tender  age !  These  children  are 
virtually  orphans,  and  still  beset  with  temptations  and  dangers  on 
every  hand,  not  the  least  of  which  arise  from  indulgence  and  undue 
attentions.  ^/Z  the  children  of  missionaries,  wherever  they  are  sitr 
uated,  must  ordinarily  become  literal  orphans,  when  very  young. 
Under  the  trials  and  toils  of  their  arduous  work,  the  parents  must 
soon  sink,  and  the  children  be  thrown,  unprotected  and  unprovided 
for,  upon  a  perilous  world.  With  what  tenderness  and  emphasis 
does  the  case  of  such  orphans  plead  with  Christians  for  an  interest 
in  their  prayers,  that  God  would  be  their  Father ! 

The  children  of  missionaries  should  be,  to  the  churches,  objects 
of  deep  interest,  as  well  as  of  lender  sympathy.  Their  conversion 
bears  an  important  connexion  to  the  ^read  of  the  gospel.  If  pious, 
they  may  accomplish  inestimable  good.  Like  the  missionary  him- 
self, they  are  "  a  city  set  on  a  hill."  The  influence  of  their  exam- 
ple, even  in  childhood,  is  commanding.  And  if  spared  to  adult 
years,  they  may  become  far  more  able  and  efficient  missionaries 
than  their  parents.  They  will  ordinarily  enjoy  much  better  health. 
Having  survived  the  struggles  and  exposures  of  a  feeble  infancy, 
their  systems  grow  up  inured  to  the  sickly  influences  of  a  hostile 
climate,  and  possess  an  elasticity,  which  can  readily  bend  and  again 
recover,  where  the  robust  missionary,  fresh  from  his  native  shores, 
falls  quickly  under  the  power  of  disease-  These  children,  if  pious, 
would  also,  in  some  respects,  be  much  better  qualified  for  mission- 
ary labor  than  their  parents.  Born  and  reared  on  benighted  ground, 
they  are  familiar  with  the  habits  and  feelings  of  the  native  popula- 
tion ;  and  know  well  how  to  acquire  and  exert  the  most  command- 
ing influence  over  them.  And  the  native  language,  the  difficulties 
in  the  acquisition  of  which  are  so  long  a  mountain-barrier,  on  the 
threshold  of  missionary  usefulness,  these  children  have  already  ac- 
quired, unconsciously  but  perfectly,  in  their  childhood, — and  they 
can  use  it,  with  as  much  freedom  and  effect  as  their  own ;  while 
their  parents,  however  active  and  laborious  in  attemptiBg  to  train 


HOPE  PROMISES. 


345 


their  inelastic  organs,  may  be  but  halting  stammerers,  until  the  day 
of  their  death. 

On  ihe  other  hand,  if  the  children  of  missionaries  do  not  early 
become  pious,  they  may,  and  probably  will,  do  irreparable  injury  to 
the  cause  of  missions.  Their  position  is  one  of  influence,  wherever 
they  are  situated.  They  are,  in  any  case,  "  a  spectacle  unto  the 
world,  to  angels  and  to  men."  And  if  the  light  that  is  in  them  be 
darkness,  how  great  must  be  that  darkness.  How  utterly  unavailing 
will  be  the  toils  and  the  tears  of  the  faithful  missionary,  with  the 
example  of  ungodly  children  arrayed'  against  him  at  the  mission 
station;  and  what  scandal  must  such  children  bring  upon  the  cause 
in  which  the  parent  is  engaged,  when  sent  to  a  christian  land ! 

What  affecting  motives  then  urge  the  churches  to  offer  fervent 
prayer  for  these  sons  and  daughters  of  promise,  that  they  may  be 
prepared  to  aid  their  fathers  and  mothers,  in  their  'arduous  labors, 
and  succeed  them,  when  they  fall  asleep,  in  the  missionary  vine- 
yard. When  the  venerable  Morrison  ceased  from  his  labors  in 
China,  a  son,  bearing  his  name  and  his  own  moral  likeness,  stood 
ready  to  heal  the  otherwise  irreparable  breach.  And  how  delight- 
ful, how  auspicious  for  Zion,  if  at  all  mission  stations,  when  the 
fathers  fall  asleep,  such  sons  should  be  found  to  advance  and  fill 
their  places.  How  would  the  ranks  of  the  heralds  of  the  gospel  be 
strengthened  and  enlarged,  and  how  rapidly  would  the  chariot  of 
salvation  roll  onward  through  the  wo'rld  ! 

There  is  great  hope  to  stimulate  Christians  to  pray  for  this  object. 
Notwithstanding  all  that  is  trying  in  the  circumstances  of  the  chil- 
dren of  missionaries,  their  case  still  presents  peculiar  encourage- 
ment. The  near  and  intimate  connexion,  between  their  conversion 
and  the  spread  of  the  gospel,  is  itself  a  circumstance  of  great  en- 
couragement. He,  who  has  graven  Zion  on  the  palms  of  his  hands, 
knows  well  the  value  of  this  instrumentality  in  promoting  its  weal ; 
and  He  who  accepted  young  Samuel  and  made  him  a  prophet,  at  the 
consecration  of  a  pious  mother,  will  also,  in  answer  to  prayer,  accept 
the  children  of  missionaries  and  put  their  instrumentality  in  effec- 
tive operation  for  the  advancement  of  his  kingdom. 

There  is  also  rich  encouragement,  in  relation  to  these  children,  in 
the  promises  of  Scripture.  The  Lord  has  promised  "  mercy  unto 
thousands,  (thousands  of  generations,)  of  them  that  love  him  and  keep 
his  commandments."  And  for  whom  can  this  pledge  be  urged  with 
more  delightful  confidence,  than  for  the  children  of  those,  who,  from 
love  to  Christ  and  in  obedience  to  his  command,  have  forsaken 
country  and  kindred  and  gone  forth,  ready  to  encounter  all  things, 
in  proclaiming  his  gospel!  Not  that  there  is  any  merit  in  such 
consecration.  The  faithful  missionary  is  but  an  unprofitable  ser- 
vant, having  done  only  what  it  was  his  duty  to  do.  Nor  does  the 
sacred  and  self-denying  nature  of  his  work,  preclude  the  possibility 
of  entering  it  with  improper  motives — nor  hallow  those  motives — 
nor  insure  the  promised  blessing  to  him  who  thus  enters  it.    In  the 

44 


346 


PROSPECT  OF  WAR  SECURITY. 


family  of  our  Lord  even  there  was  a  Judas;  but  his  being  there  se- 
cured to  hiro  neither  part  nor  lot  with  the  true  disciples.  But  to 
believ  e  that  God  has  connected  the  bestowment  of  precious  mercies 
with  the  obedience  of  the  sincere,  godly  missionary,  is  so  far  from 
being  arrogance,  that  to  disbelieve  it,  would  betray  alike  a  want  of 
gratitude  to  him  and  of  confidence  in  his  word.  The  last  and  one 
of  the  most  prominent  commands  which  our  Lord  gave  to  his  dis- 
ciples was,  "  Go  teach  all  nations."  The  faithful  missionary,  so  far 
as  it  is  in  his  power,  literally  obeys  this  as  well  as  the  other  command- 
ments. Nor  was  the  Saviour  himself  silent,  on  the  connexion  of 
blessings  with  such  missionary  consecration.  Said  Peter  on  one 
occasion,  "  Lo,  we  have  left  all  and  followed  thee;  and  Jesus  an- 
swered and  said  unto  him,  verily,  I  say  uhto  you,  there  is  no  man 
that  hath  left  house,  or  brethren,  or"  sisters,  or  father,  or  mother,  or 
wife,  or  children,  or  lands,  for  my  sake  and  the  gospel's,  but  he  shall 
receive  a  hundred  fold  now  in  this  time;  houses  and  brethren  and 
sisters  and  mothers  aud  children  and  land,  with  persecutions,  and 
in  the  world  to  come,  eternal  life."  What  promises  could  be  more 
ample  !  And  will  not  this  Saviour  listen  to  prayer,  for  the  children 
of  his  missionary  servants  ?  Yes  ;  our  children,  who  are  subject  to 
an  amount  of  suffering  unknown  to  children  in  a  christian  land  ; 
who,  if  not  early  removed  by  death,  grow  up  strangers  to  the  pre- 
cious privileges  enjoyed  by  their  kiudred  at  home,  and  amid  moral 
pollution  from  which  divine  grace  alone  can  succor  them,  will  never 
be  forsaken  nor  forgotten  of  God. 

We  bring  them,  Lord,  in  thankful  hands, 

And  yield  them  up  to  thee  ; 
Joyful  that  we  ourselves  are  thine  ; 

Thine  let  our  offspring  be. 

If  orphans,  they  are  left  behind  ; 

Thy  guardian  care  we  trust ; 
That  care  shall  heal  our  bleeding  hearts; 

If  weeping  o'er  their  dust. 


CHAPTER  XXL 

JOURNAL  :  OCTOBER— DECEMBER,  1838. 

From  the  prospect  of  a  war  between  England  and  Persia,  we  nat- 
urally feel  a  measure  of  apprehension.  Knowing,  however,  that  we 
enjoy  the  protection  of  the  God  of  missions,  who  also  ryles  among 
the  nations,  we  need  yield  to  no  distressing  solicitude.    Indeed,  in 


RETRENCHMENT  SAJBBATH  SERVICE,  347 


view  of  His  dealings  with  our  mission,  front)  the  first,  we  have  evet 
felt  constrained  to  thank  Hitn  and  take  courage,  rather  than  give 
way  to  desponding  forebodings.  We  have  ever  been  prepared  for 
reverses;  i.  e.  to  count  no  strange  thing  to  have  happened,  should 
they  come,-  but  sufficient  unto  the  day  is  the  evil  thereof. 

While  we  have  been  not  a  little  straitened  for  want  o{  funds,  du- 
ring the  present  year,  we  have  still  so  economized,  by  multiplying 
and  lengthening  the  vacations  of  our  schools,  and  retrenching,  as  far 
as  possible,  our  family  expenditures,  as  to  prevent  the  suspension  of 
any  of  our  labors.  We  have  thus  not  been  compelled  to  disappoint 
the  Nestorians,  nor  to,  attempt  to  explain  to  them  the  causes  of  the 
temporary  embarrassment  of  our  patrons,  which  it  would  be  very 
difficult  for  them  to  understand.  Had  the  sum  allowed  our  mission 
been  any  less,  interruption  would  have  been  unavoidable.  Nor 
could  we  long  sustain  our  present  eflforts  without  an  increase  of 
means.  Some  of  our  number,  for  instance,  kept  but  one  fire  du- 
ring the  last  winter,  to  save  fuel ;  and  were  thus  obliged  to  bring  their 
kitchen,  their  study,  their  recitation-room,  dining-room  and  nurse- 
ry, all  into  the  same  apartment.  To  say  nothing  of  the  serious 
abridgment  of  usefulness,  by  curtailing  intercourse  with  the  natives, 
which  such  an  arrangement  must  cause,  it  of  course  becomes  very 
inconvenient,  if  not  wholly  impracticable,  in  case  of  sickness.  Some 
of  our  number,  too,  are  becoming  short  of  clothing,  which  they 
have  not  the  means  of  procuring,  and  are  hazarding  a  state  of  des- 
titution, in  the  hope-of  early  relief.  These  private  inconveniences, 
however,  we  most  cheerfully  sustain,  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  inter- 
rupting our  missionary  operations 

We  still  meet  with  not  a  breath  of  opposition,  from  any  quarter. 
Our  schools  are  full  and  flourishing.  The  Nestorians,  under  our 
immediate  influence,  never  gave  more  encouraging  evidence  of  in- 
terest in  their  studies  and  general  improvement,  than  at  the  present 
time.  Our  services  on  the  Sabbath  are  particularly  interesting.  In 
the  morning,  all  the  Nestorians  in  our  i'amilies,  the  members  of  the 
seminary  and  female  boarding-school,  assemble  in  the  capacity  of  a 
Sabbath  school.  The  teachers,  ten  or  twelve  in  number,  all  eccle- 
siastics— bishops,  priests  and  deacons — spend  an  hour  with  the  mis- 
sionaries on  Saturday,  in  preparing  the  lesson.  This  interesting  as- 
sembly meet  also  with  the  missionaries- at  their  English  worship,  at 
11  o'clock,  A.  M.,  and  in  the  afternoon,  they  all  assemble  for  anoth-' 
er  religious  exercise  in  their  own  language,  which  consists  of  a  fa- 
miliar  exposition  of  the  Scriptures,  by  the  senior  member  of  the 
mission.  We  trust  that  the  seed  sown  in  the  minds  of  the  Nestori- 
ans, in  these  deeply  interesting  services  of  the  Sabbath,  as  well  as 
their  daily  study  of  the  Scriptures,  will  ere  long  spring  up  and  bring 
forth  fruit  unto  salvation. 

Oct.  30.  Two  European  Papal  emissaries  have  just  entered  this 
province,  apparently  with  the  design  of  attempting  to  subject  the 
Nestorians  here  to  the  dominion  of  the  Pope.    A  missionary  recent- 


348  PECUNIARY  RELIEF  MR.  GLEN  A  FAPIST. 


]y  "wrote  me  from  Malta,  that  it  is  currently  reported  there,  that  the 
Pope  dcsigng  sending  one  hundred  missionaries  immediately  into- 
these  eastern  countries.  Though  but  a  small  part  of  that  number 
may  come,  the  Nestcrians  will,  doubtless,  receive  their  full  share  of 
attention.  The  importance  of  this  field  is  well  understood  by  Pa- 
pists. 

Nov.  3.  Letters  from  America  bring  to  us  the  very  grateful  tid- 
ings of  precious  revivals  of  religion  in  that  favored  land.  We  also 
receive  intelligence  of  partial  relief  from  our  pressing  want  of  pe- 
cuniary means,  which  is  peculiarly  welcome  to  us  at  the  present 
time.  We  are  anxious  to  multiply  our  schools  and  prosecute  more 
Tigorously  all  our  operations,  especially,  as  we  behold  Catholics, 
coming  in  like  a  flood,  to  make  havoc  of  the  Nestorian  flock.  We 
have  of  late  felt  deeply  distressed  in  view  of  our  want  of  means  to 
meet  the  emergency. 

Nov.  6.    The  Rev.  Wm.  Glen,  who  was  for  seventeen  years  a 
missionary  of  the  Scottish  missionary  society  at  Astrakhan,  arrived 
a  few  months  ago  at  Tabreez,  where  he  contemplates  translating  the 
Bible  into  the  Persian  language.    He  appears  to  be  a  man  of  much 
ability  and  of  a  truly  evangelical  spirit.    He  is  at  present  sustained 
by  the  joint  patronage  of  the  United  Associate  Synod  of  Scotland 
and  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society.    It  is  gratifying  to  know 
'that  the  Muhammedans  of  Persia  are  not  entirely  forgotten  in  the 
sympathies  of  British  Christians.    Though  the  gospel  cannot  now 
with  safety  be  openly  proclaimed  to  them,  they  must  not  be  aban- 
doned to  unmitigated  despair.    What  if  our  blessed  Lord  had  con- 
signed our  fallen  world  to  hopeless  perdition,  because  it  presented 
to  his  pure,  omniscient  eye,  as  he  looked  down  from  heaven,  noth- 
ing but  a  scene  of  wide-spread  desolation, — a  moral  disease,  so 
desperate,  that  the  sufferers  did  not  even  desire  a  remedy  !  Ah^ 
that  was  the  very  a3f>ect"  which  touched  the  divine  compassion. 
May  his  disciples  follow  the  example  of  their  Master. 

Nov.  8.  A  Catholio  deacon  from  the  region  of  Mosul,  called  at 
my  study.  He  is  probably  connected  with  the  European  Catholio 
emissaries;  and  may  have  come  here  at  their  bidding,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  opening  a  Papal  school.  The  priests,  ray  translators,  en- 
gaged in  a  warm  discussion  with  him,  on  image-worship,  and  other 
corrupt  practices  of  the  Papal  church.  They  also  attacked  the 
practice  of  praying  lo  saints,  condemning  it  in  the  most  unmeasured 
terms,  and  reiterating  that  there  is  one  God,  and  one  Mediator,  the 
man  Jesus  Christ.  I  was  much  interested  in  listening  to  this  dis- 
cussion  to  observe  an  important  advance,  in  our  Nestorian  priests, 
in  evangelical  views  and  feelings.  The  books  of  the  Nestorians  and 
common  practice,  recognize  praying  to  the  Virgin  and  other  de- 
parted saints — or  rather,  supplicating  their  intercession — but  the 
priests,  to-day,  of  their  own  accord,  took  scriptural  ground  on  the 
subject.  Toward  the  close  of  the  discussion,  in  which  I  did  little 
more  than  listen,  the  priests  exhorted  the  Papist  to  abandon  his  ct- 


THE  missionary's  REWARD — THANKSCmNG. 


349 


foneous  system  and  embrace  the  truth,  meaning  the  Ncstorian  be 
lief.  He  replied,  that  he  would  "turn"  for  money;  and  on  being 
farther  pressed,  he  repeated,  that  he  would  not  "  turn  "  without 
money  ;  but  for  ten  tomans,  ($25,)  or  some  such  consideration,  he 
was  ready  to  change  his  religion.  I  have  no  doubt  that  the  Papist, 
who  seems  to  be  pinched  with  poverty,  was  sincere  in  this  proposi- 
tion ;  and  he  would  probably  afterward  "  turn  "  back  again  for  a 
much  smaller  sum.  The  Nestorian  priests  manifested  no  wisli  to 
purchase  him.  I,  however,  embraced  the  opportunity  to  remind 
them  all,  that  the  Romish  practice  of  buying"  converts  is  far  enough 
from  the  apostolic  method  of  enlarging  Christ's  kingdom. 

Oct.  16.  In  company  with  Mr.  Hoiladay,  I  visited  the  school  at 
G6og-tapa.  The  aged  father  of  John — our  favorite  boy — as  we 
rose  to  leave  him,  importuned  me  to  spend  the  night  with  him  ;  and 
to  assure  me  that  I  should  be  welcome,  he  said,  "  you  had  one  house 
in  America;  but  here,  every  nouse  in  the  village  is  yours."  The 
village  contains  about  one  hundred  houses;  and  Mr.  Hoiladay,  in 
view  of  the  strong  demonstrations  of  kindness  which  we  received, 
pleasantly  suggested  the  inquiry,  whether  this  declaration  of  the 
pilgrim,  as  this  old  man  is  called,  might  not  be  regarded  as  in  a 
certain  sense,  a  fulfilment  of  the  promise  of  our  Lord,  that  whoso- 
ever _/br5a/:<°M  father,  etc.  should  receive  a.  hundred  fold  in  this  life. 
The  cordial  reception,  which  we  everywhere  meet  from  the  Nesto- 
rians,  at  least  calls  on  us  for  unfeigned  thanksgiving  to  God ;  es- 
pecially as  this  ready  access  to  them  is  so  important  to  the  success 
of  our  efforts  for  their  salvation. 

Nov. -23.  We  were  engaged  in  translating  Philippians  ii.  "We 
had  recently  made  application  to  Yeeshoo,  (Joshua,  or  Jesus,)  a 
deacon  from  the  mountains,  who  has  been  a  considerable  time  in 
our  employ,  to  go  and  open  a  school  at  Ardishai,  the  village  of  Mar 
Gabriel.  The  deacon,  apprehending  that,  on  account  of  the  cap- 
tiousness  of  the  bishop  and  the  rudeness  of  the  people  there,  he 
might  find  his  situation  less  comfortable  than  with  us  at  the  mission 
station,  refused  to  go,  though  the  object  was  one  of  acknowledged 
importance.  As,  therefore,  we  came,  in  translating,  to  the  5th  verse, 
"  Let  this  mind  be  in  you  which  was  also  in  Christ  Jesus,"  the 
coincidence  of  the  name  of  deacon  Yeeshoo,  (Jesus,)  with  that  of 
our  blessed  Lord,  arrested  the  attention  of  the  priests,  the  contrast 
of  spirit  in  the  two,  thus  becoming  the  more  striking.  And  the 
priests  were  so  deeply  impressed  with  the  duty  of  unreserved  con- 
secration to  Christ,  in  the  light  of  his  amazing  condescension,  as 
set  forth  in  the  succeeding  verses,  that  they  both  declared  themselves 
ready  to  go  to  Ardishai  and  engage  in  the  school,  unwelcome  as  the 
task  might  be,  if  we  would  send  them. 

Nov.  29.  We  observed  to-day  as  our  annual  Thanksgiving.  I 
preached  from  Gen.  32:  10,  "  I  am  not  worthy  of  the  least  of  all  the 
mercies  and  of  all  the  truth,  which  thou  hast  showed  unto  thy  ser- 
vant ;  for  with  my  staff  I  passed  over  this  Jordan,  and  now  I  aiji 


350  MEERZa's  STIPEND—CHALDEAN  VAGRANTS. 


become  two  bands."  This  text  wag  suggested  to  my  mind,  for  the 
occasion,  by  the  recollection  of  the  solitary  journey  which  I  made 
to  this  city,  (whose  gates  had  seldom  been  entered  by  European 
feet  before  me,)  between  four  and  five  years  ago,  and  now  behold- 
mgjiftttrt  Americans, four  families  of  our  mission  and  their 
seven  children— in  our  circle,  and  contemplating,  in  connexion 
with  the  contrast,  the  manifold  missionary  blessings  and  mercies, 
which  the  Lord  has  so  richly  bestowed  upon  us,  from  that  period  to 
the  present  time. 

Nov.  30.  Th(?  Persian  Meerza,  who  has  been  with  us  from  the 
commencement  of  our  residence  here,  informed  me  that  the  king's 
brother,  the  prince  of  Azerbijan,  has  allowed  him  a  stipend  of  twenty 
tomans,  ($5f),)  for  this  year,  as  he  did  for  the  last,  to  enable  him  to 
prosecute  his  studies  under  our  instruction.  This  is  an  encour- 
aging token  of  the  prince's  continued  confidence  in  us,  and  shows 
that  he  feels  at  least  some  degree  of  interest  in  the  diffusion  of 
knowledge  among  his  subjects.  In  reference  to  the  Muhammedans 
of  Persia,  we  must  not  despise  "the  day  of  small  things." 

I  have  just  written  a  letter  to  the  British  and  Foreign  Bible  So- 
ciety, in  answer  to  one  received  yesterday,  making  inquiries  respect- 
ing three  vagrant  Chaldeans,  who  had  made  their  way  from  the  Pa- 
pal village  of  Khosrova,  in  Salmas,  through  the  Russian  Provinces 
of  Georgia,  over  the  Caucasus  and  across  the  continent  of  Europe 
to  England;  and  have  caused  the  Bible  Society  a  vast  amount  of 
trouble  and  not  a  little  expense.  They  had,  in  their  possession,  an 
old  letter,  in  French,  purporting  to  have  been  written  by  bishop 
Chevris,  a  Jesuit  missionary  to  the  Nestorians,  and  addressed  to  an 
agent  of  the  B.  F.  Bible  Society  at  Constantinople,  requesting  funds 
from  that  society,  to  establish  a  college  among  tiie  Nestorians,  and 
for  some  other  objects.  This  Jesuit  died  of  the  plague  at  Tabreez 
about  ten  years  ago^  He  had  been  employed  by  the  British  and 
Foreign  Bible  Society,  in  translating  a  part  of  the  gospels  into  the 
Koordish  language.  One  of  these  Chaldeans,  it  appears,  is  a  nephew 
of  the  Jesuit  and  had  resided  with  him.  He  had  subsequently  lived 
with  me,  some  time,  as  a  servant,  and  was  dismissed  for  intemper- 
ance. The  old  French  letter  in  question,  on  the  death  of  his  uncle, 
fell  into  his  hands.  And  by  showing  this  letter  and  using  my  name 
viva  voce,  the  party  were  assisted  from  place  to  place  in  making 
their  way  to  England;  and  there,  they  attempted  to  procure  money 
professedly  for  the  college,  proposed  in  the  letter  of  the  Jesuit,  re- 
presenting the  institution  as  already  in  operati(m  in  a  place  near 
Oroomiah,  and  stating  that  the  said  nephew  of  the  Jesuit — the 
bearer  of  the  letter — and  myself  are  its  present  directors  ! 

Neither  of  the  vagrants  can  read,  their  zeal  and  the  magnificence  of 
their  literary  schemes  notwithstanding.  They  seem,  however,  to  have 
been  extensively  believed  and  they  excited  much  sympathy,  both  in 
England  and  in  Germany,  from  the  fact  of  their  being  Chaldean 
Christians,  until  their  mercenary  conduct  led  to  suspicion  of  their 


MAR  Joseph's  excursion — emigrants.  351 


being  impostors.  I  am  glad  they  prove  to  be  Papists,  rather  than 
Nestorians;  though  there  are,  doubtless,  numbers  among  the  latter 
also  who,  ignorant,  stupid  Asiatics  though  they  be,  are  still  arch  and 
dishonest  enough  to  show  themselves  equally  expert  and  daring 
rogues,  should  they  have  the  opportunity. 

Dec.  3.  Mar  Elias  spent  most  of  the  day  in  my  study,  engaged 
in  reading  my  translation  of  the  Epistle  to  the  Philippians,  which 
we  recently  finished.  He  expressed  himself  highly  gratified  with  the 
accuracy  of  the  translation,  and  was  delighted  with  the  beauty  and 
vividness  of  the  epistle  itself,  which  he  appeared  for  the  first  time  to 
understand.  With  their  very  limited  education,  the  best  instructed 
of  the  clergy  have  but  an  imperfect  knowledge  of  the  ancient  Sy- 
riac — the  language  in  which  their  Scriptures  exist — and  they  thus 
fail  of  reaching  the  clear  light  and  the  full  meaning  of  divine  truth. 
A  mist  hangs  over  the  pages  of  Revelation,  while  obliged  to  read 
them  through  the  shell  of  an  obsolete  language  ;  and  if  so  with  the 
clergy,  the  people,  who  do  not  read  at  all,  are  of  course  in  still  deep- 
er darkness. 

Dec.  4.  Mar  Joseph,  some  months  ago,  wandered  away  to  the 
Russian  provinces,  in  the  visionary  hope  of  personal  emolument,  and 
of  discovering  some  means  for  the  removal  of  the  Nestorians  from 
Persia  into  Georgia.  His  adventure,  we  may  hope,  will  prove  bene- 
ficial, both  to  himself  and  the  Nestorians.  He  has  become  thorough- 
ly disgusted  with  Georgia.  Religious  antipathy  on  the  part  of  the 
governor  of  Erivan,  who  is  an  Armenian,  caused  the  bishop  to  be 
arrested  and  kept  some  time  in  confinement,  and  the  same  antipa- 
thy prevented  one  hundred  families  of  Nestorians,  who  had  abandon- 
ed their  native  country  near  Van,  in  the  eastern  part  of  Turkey,  and 
made  their  way  to  the  frontier,  from  being  permitted  to  enter  Geor- 
gia. Those  poor  Nestorians  are  now  making  their  way  back  to 
their  old  homes  in  Turkey,  having  sacrificed  their  little  all  to  their 
childish  scheme  of  emigration.  They  must  suffer  extremely  for  some 
time,  houseless  and  pennyless  as  they  are  ;  and  especially,  during  the 
severity  of  the  present  winter.  We  hope  the  experience  of  the  bish- 
op and  of  the  poor  emigrants  will  have  the  effect  of  allaying  the  ma- 
nia for  emigration  among  the  Nestorians,  and  render  them  better 
contented  with  their  present  masters,  notwithstanding  their  severe 
oppression. 

Dec.  5.  I  requested  the  opinion  of  Mar  Elias,  who  again  spent 
most  of  the  day  in  my  study,  in  one  or  two  instances,  relative  to  the 
translation  of  passages  of  Scripture.  In  reply,  he  modestly  said, 
that  his  opinion  could  be  of  little  use,  as  his  knowledge  of  the  Bible 
was  very  imperfect.  "Until  you  came  here,"  he  continued,  "and 
brought  us  Bibles,  I  had  scarcely  ever  seen  the  Prophets  or  the 
Epistles."  And  both  he  and  the  priests  remarked  in  the  same  con- 
nexion, that  there  had  been  a  revival  of  the  knowledge  of  the  Scrip- 
tures among  them,  since  our  mission  was  commenced.  Most  of 
the  Gospels,  the  Psalms  and  parts  of  the  Pentateuch,  are  embodied 


352 


ERROR  TO  BE  EXPELLED  BY  TRUTH. 


in  their  Liturgy,  in  the  ancient  Syriac  ;  and  the  best  instructed  of 
the  ecclesiastics  thus  become  in  a  measure  familiar  with  those  por- 
tions of  the  Bible ;  but  with  the  other  parts,  the  mass  of  them 
as  well  as  the  people,  were  almost  as  little  acquainted,  before  the 
commencement  of  our  misssion,  as  though  they  had  no  existence. 

Dec.  8.  As  we  reached  the  16th  verse  in  translating  the  second 
chapter  of  Ephesians,  "  Let  no  man  therefore  judge  you  in  meat  or 
in  drink,  or  in  respect  of  an  holiday,  or  of  the  new  moon  or  of  the 
Sabbath  days,"  I  inquired  of  priest  Dunka  how  he  understood  the 
passage.  He  replied,  that  a  caution  is  uttered  in  that  verse,  against 
any  one's  attempting  to  divert  him  or  his  people  from  their  obser- 
vance of  their  stated  fasts  and  exclusive  use  of  vegetable  diet  on  par- 
ticular days.  I  requested  him  to  read  in  connexion  with  it,  the  17th 
verse  of  the  same  chapter ;  "  which,  (those  things  specified  in  the 
16th  verse,)  are  a  shadow  of  things  to  come  ;  but  the  body  is  Christ." 
He  read  it  and  promptly  acknowledged  that  this  passage  had  refer- 
ence rather  to  Jewish  observances  that  are  now  superseded  by 
the  gospel.  His  appearance,  moreover,  irj^dicated  that  he  knew  the 
spirit  of  this  Scripture  bore  heavily  on  some  of  the  ceremonies  of 
his  own  church  ;  but  he  had  not  the  courage  or  the  candor,  to  make 
such  an  acknowledgment.  I  did  not  think  it  expedient  or  neces- 
sary to  urge  this  application.  There  is  little  gained  and  much  may 
be  lost,  in  directly  assailing  the  religious  observances  of  oriental 
Christians.  It  is  better  to  preach  to  them  the  simple  truth — and  this 
canuot  fail  to  eradicate  error.  Dr.  Chalmers  has  a  sermon,  entitled, 
"the  expulsive  power  of  a  new  affection,"  from  which  the  mission- 
ary in  Western  Asia  may  learn  important  lessons.  It  is  worse  than 
va  vain,  that  we  essay  to  draw  an  oriental  from  his  hay,  wood  and 
stubble,  until  we  point  him  to  the  firm  foundation.  And  this  we 
must  do,  by  inviting  him  to  the  high  common  ground  of  the  gospel, 
and  then  pour  its  blazing,  searching  light  into  the  dark  chambers  of 
his  soul — simply  preach  to  him,  Jesus  Christ,  and  as  he  begins  to 
learn  Christ,  he  will  of  his  own  accord  relax  his  hold  of  all  other 
foundations. 

But  the  missionary,  in  pursuing  this  conservative  course,  is  some- 
times charged  of  tampering  with  error,  conniving  at  sin,  as  be  is 
also  by  some  accuse-d  of  accommodating  himself  too  much  to  the 
social  usages  of  the  natives.  These  are  serious  matters,  and  de- 
serve consideration.  They  are  subjects  in  relation  to  which  the 
missionary  himself  feels  embarrassments  and  difficulties,  that  he  is 
able  to  meet  and  dispose  of  only  by  recurring  to  general  principles 
of  the  Bible.  On  reaching  his  field,  he  naturally  and  properly  looks 
to  Paul,  the  great  primitive  missionary — ^to  his  example  and  pre- 
cepts, and  endeavors  to  follow  these  so  far  as  his  circumstances  re- 
semble those  of  the  apostle;  not  that  in  looking  to  Paw/,  he  has 
any  occasion  to  turn  from  the  Lord  Jesus — the  great  and  perfect 
model.  The  apostle  himself  exhorts  us,  "  be  ye  followers  of  me, 
even  as  I  am  of  Christ."    But  some  of  the  practical  parts  of  the 


APOSTOLIC  EXAMPLE  SELF-DENIAL  OBJECT.  353 


life  and  duty  of  missionaries,  we  find  more  fully  carried  out  by 
Paul,  ill  hiri  long  course  of  missionary  labor,  than  in  the  more 
general  instructions  and  brief  scene  of  public  action,  in  the  case  of 
his  and  our  divine  Master. 

The  missionary  is  thus  led  to  make  the  subject-matter  of  his 
message  what  the  apostle  declares  to  have  been  his :  "  For  I  deter- 
mined not  to  know  anything  among  you,  save  Jesus  Christ  and  him 
crucified;"  and  again,  "we  preach  Christ  crucified;  unto  the 
Jews  a  stumbling  block,  and  to  the  Greeks  foolishness;  but  to  them 
that  believe,  both  Jews  and  Greeks,  Christ  the  power  of  God  and 
the  wisdom  of  God."  Such  evidently  should  be  the  missionary's 
engrossing  theme,  instead  of  questions  of  words  and  of  forms  to  no 
profit.  And  to  regulate  his  intercourse  with  the  natives  and  the 
manner  of  his  instruction  and  preaching  to  them,  he  recurs  to  those 
other  declaration.s  of  Paul  in  relation  to  his  course  in  these  things. 
Take  for  illustration  the  passage  in  I  Cor.  9:  19 — 23.  "  For 
though  I  be  free  from  all  men,  yet  have  I  made  myself  servant  to 
all,  that  I  might  gain  the  more.  And  unto  the  Jews,  I  became  as 
a  Jew,  that  I  might  gain  the  Jews;  to  them  that  are  under  the  law, 
as  under  the  law,  that  I  might  gain  them  that  are  under  the  law, 
to  them  that  are  without  law,  as  without  law,  (being  not  without 
law  to  God,  but  under  the  law  to  Christ,)  that  I  might  gain  them 
that  are  without  law.  To  the  weak,  became  I  as  weak,  that  I 
might  gain  the  weak  ;  I  am  made  all  things  to  all  men,  that  I  might 
by  all  means  save  some.  And  this  I  do  for  the  gospel's  sake." 
Remarkable  declarations,  intended  doubtless,  to  be  used  as  a  kind 
of  vade  mecum  by  missionaries  in  all  subsequent  times ! 

The  policy  of  Paul,  as  sketched  in  these  passages  of  Scripture, 
bears  upon  its  face  the  impress  of  exalted  self-denial.  It  was  in 
fact,  as  well  as  in  figure,  becoming  a  servant  unto  all  men.  And  it 
is  instructive  to  observe  his  well  chosen  method  of  sustaining  him- 
self under  it.  He  kept  his  mind  foil  of  the  grand  object  in  view. 
It  was  "  for  the  gospel's  sake ;"  that  he  "might  gain  the  more." 
A  momentous  object,  and  one  that  would  of  course  warrant  him  in 
making  any  sacrifice,  and  pursuing  any  expedients,  to  advance  it, 
that  are  not  in  themselves,  nor  their  tendency,  evil.  The  modern 
missionary  doubtless  loses  much  in  not  dwelling  on  this  point — 
warming,  expanding  and  elevating  his  soul,  by  contemplating  his 
object,  tlie  same  which  induced  the  counsels  of  heaven  to  delegate 
the  Son  of  God  himself  on  a  mission  to  earth, — a  mission,  too,  involv- 
ing the  humiliation  of  his  incarnation,  the  painful  self-denials  of  his 
life,  the  appalling  ignominy  of  his  arrest  and  trial,  and  the  unutter^- 
able  agonies  of  his  tragical  death.  It  is  of  course  impossible  for 
finite  minds  fully  to  estimate  the  magnitude  of  the  object  in  question. 
Till  we  can  fathom  the  miseries  of  that  world  of  wo,  from  which 
the  soul  of  the  redeemed  is  rescued,  and  guage  the  felicities  to  which 
it  is  raised  in  heaven — measure  the  indescribable  poignancy  of  the 
one  and  the  ecstatic  raptures  of  the  other,  in  all  the  boundless  in- 

45 


354 


ACCOMMODATION  ITS  REASONABLENESS 


finitude  of  their  extent  and  duration,  we  can  at  best  have  but  a  very 
limited  idea  of  the  value  of  a  single  soul  and  the  importance  of  its 
salvation.  It  is  possible,  however,  to  catch  a  glimpse  from  the 
points  here  suggested,  and  especially  from  the  fact,  that  this  object 
was  sufficient,  in  the  view  of  the  Jnjinite  mind,  to  call  for  the  cost- 
liest sacrifice  that  the  universe  could  offer, — that  heaven  itself 
colild  make.  And  just  in  proportion  as  the  missionary  accustoms 
himself  to  dwell  upon  the  grandeur  and  magnitude  of  this  object, 
he  is  ready  with  Paul  to  be  a  servant  to  all,  to  accommodate  his 
conduct  to  the  feelings  and  usages  of  the  people  for  whose  salvation 
he  labors,  so  far  as  the  interests  of  their  salvation  are  thereby  pro- 
moted. Whether  it  was  necessary  and  expedient,  that  Paul  should 
make  this  accommodation,  it  will  not  of  course  be  questioned,  that 
an  apostle,  acting  under  the  guidance  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  was  com- 
petent to  decide.  Nor  is  it  difficult  to  perceive  the  reasonableness 
of  this  course  from  the  nature  of  the  case.  If  would  obviously  be 
fruitless  for  a  foreigner,  in  any  land,  to  hope  to  acquire  extensive 
influence  and  confidence,  while  entirely  disregarding  the  customs 
and  feelings  of  the  people  among  whom  he  should  dwell.  How 
could  he  gain  ready  access  to  them,  or  they  be  attracted  to  him, 
while  he  should  make  prominent  and  insist  on  all  his  foreign 
customs,  many  of  which,  however  good  in  themselves,  may  appear 
in  him,  to  the  natives  of  other  climes,  altogether  repulsive,  and 
quite  as  absurd  as  some  of  their  practices  seem  to  him. 

The  state  of  things,  among  the  oriental  churches,  clinging  tena- 
ciously to  their  carnal  ordinances,  is  not  dissimilar  to  that  of  the 
Jews,  in  our  Lord's  time,  teaching,  as  they  did,  "  for  doctrines  the 
commandments  of  men."  The  broad  principles  of  Paul  cover  alike 
the  case  of  those  nominal  Christians,  of  Jews  and  of  all  gentile 
nations.  But  to  bejroperly  understood,  as  a  model  for  missionary 
imitation,  these  principles  should  be  somewhat  more  fully  analyzed, 
in  the  light  of  his  declarations  above-quoted.  The  apostle  begins 
by  asserting  his  christian  freedom,  of  which  his  possession  was  as 
real  as  that  of  any  other  believer ;  nor  could  any  be  more  sensible — 
we  might  almost  say,  prw^rf— of  that  freedom.  "  For  though,"  says 
he,  "I  be  free  from  all  men;"  i.  e.  he  was  Christ's  freeman 7  in 
bondage  to  nobody.  His  religion,  on  his  own  account,  need  regard 
nothing,  but  to  do  justly,  love  mercy,  and  walk  humbly  before 
God.  He  might,  at  once  and  forever,  shake  himself  from  every 
vestige  of  Jewish  ceremonies  and  act  in  entire  disregard  of  the  cus- 
toms, prejudices  and  opinions  of  this  world.  But  he  pursued  just 
the  opposite  course.  In  his  own  account  of  it,  he  says,  "  for  though 
I  be  free  from  all  men,  yet  have  I  made  myself  servant  to  all,  that 
I  might  gain  the  more."  This  voluntarily  assumed  bondage  was 
nothing  more  nor  less  than  a  careful  attention  and  scrupulous  de- 
ference to  the  practices  and  feelings  of  men,  which  were  in  them- 
selves indifferent ;  but  a  violation  or  disregard  of  which  might  of- 
fend them,  and  divert  their  attention  from  the  great  concerns  of 
salvation. 


IN  RELIGIOUS  AND  SECULAR  MATTERS. 


355 


This  deference  was  exercised  in  I'eligious  matters.    "  And  unto 
the  Jews,"  said  the  apostle,  "  I  became  as  a  Jew,  that  I  might  gain 
the  Jews;  to  them  that  are  under  the  law  as  under  the  law,  that  I 
might  gain  thetn  that  are  under  the  law."    Paul,  from  the  period  of 
his  conversion,  cared  as  little  about  the  whole  mass  of  the  lumber 
of  Jewish  observances  as  any  other  man.    And  yet,  "for  ihe  gos- 
pel's sake,"  that  he  "  might  gain  the  more,"  we  find  him  acting  in 
strict  accordance  with  the  declaration,  that  he  became  as  a  Jtw. 
Among  the  unconverted  of  that  people,  he  conversed  as  though  the 
Mosaic  law  might  still  be  in  force;  and  Timothy,  the  son  of  a 
Greek,  he  took  and  circumcised,  to  render  him  a  more  acceptable 
laborer  to  the  Jeius.    Among  Jewish  converts,  also,  who  considered 
themselves  to  he  still  under  the  ritual  law,  he  became  as  one  of  them, 
joining  with  them,  in  their  worship  and  purifications,  so  far  as  he 
could,  without  misleading  them,  in  order  that  he  might  soften  their 
prejudices  and  become  to  them  the  means  of  edification.  "To 
them  that  are  without  law,"  he  continues,  "  as  without  law,  (being 
not  without  law  to  God,  but  under  the  law  to  Christ,)  that  I  might 
gain  them  that  are  without  law,"  i.  e.  with  the  gentiles,  on  the  other 
hand,  he  mingled  and  conversed  just  as  freely  as  though  he  had 
known  nothing  ab'out  Mosaic  institutions,  that  he  might  win  them 
over  ts>  embrace  the  gospel.    Not  however,  (as  he  warns  us  in  the 
parenthesis,)  that  he  disregarded  the  authority  and  commands  of 
God.    He  considered  himself  to  be  under  the  law  to  Christ, — bound 
to  receive  it  from  his  hands,  as  a. rule  of  duty  and  taught  by  his 
grace  to  love  and  delight  in  it.    "To  the  weak,"  still  continues 
the  apostle,  "  I  became  as  weak,  that  I  might  gain  the  weak."  He 
condescended  to  the  infirmities  and  scruples  of  the  weak  in  faith,  as 
if  he  too  had  been  weak,  abridging  his  liberty  lest  he  should  grieve 
them,  without  making  any  ostentation  of  stronger  faith  or  greater 
knowledge,  or  showing  any  neglect  of  them  or  contempt  of  their 
weakness.    Hence  his  triumphant  declaration, — triumphant  alike 
over  private  convenience  and  personal  prejudice, — "If  meat  make 
my  brother  to  otFend,  I  will  eat  no  flesh  while  the  world  standeth, 
lest  1  make  my  brother  to  offend." 

Thus  did  the  apostle  Paul,  in  every  respect  in  which  he  could  do 
it  with  a  good  conscience,  become  all  things  to  all  men,  in  religious 
matters,  by  an  habitual,  cheerful,  patient  endurance  of  their  infirmi- 
ties, and  toleration  of  their  mistakes  and  prejudices  in  things  unes- 
sential, that  by  every  means  he  could  devise,  he  might  save  some, 
from  each  of  the  several  descriptions  of  men  among  whom  he  tra- 
velled and  labored.  And  we  have  strong  reason  to  believe,  that  he 
also  experienced  this  scrupulous  regard,  in  temporal  matters,  as  well 
as  religious, — at  least,  so  far  as  these  things  could  affect  his  grand 
object.  His  broad  assertion,  I  am  made  all  things  to  all  men, 
though  in  a  measure  doubtless  figurative,  still  implies  that  he  ac- 
commodated himself  to  their  customs  and  prejudices,  in  things 


356 


DUTY  OF  THE  MODKHN  MISSIONAKT. 


secular,  as  well  as  spiritual.  While,  moreover,  he  did  the  greater, 
it  were  unreasonable  to  suppose,  that  he  would  be  slow  to  do  the 
less  ;  while  he  submitted  to  the  cumbersome  burden  of  Jewish  cere- 
monials, circumcised  a  fellow-laborer,  shaved  his  head  and  took 
vows,  that  he  might  conciliate  the  Jews,  it  is  in  the  highest  degree 
improbable,  that  he  would  hesitate  to  accommodate  himself  to  ex- 
isting Styles  of  etiquette  or  equipage,  when  thereby  his  influence 
and  usefulness  were  to  be  promoted. 

The  policy  pursued  by  Paul  may  and  should  be  adopted  by  mod- 
ern missionaries.  They  too  ought  carefully  to  abstain  from  offend- 
ing the  people  to  whom  they  are  sent,  and  raising  their  apprehen- 
sion and  opposition,  by  recklessly  disregarding  customs,  prejudices 
and  feelings,  in  things  not  affecting  salvation,  whether  they  be  reli- 
gious observances,  or  civil  and  social  usages.  We  need  not  of 
course  attempt  to  bring  particular  acts  of  the  apostle,  and  apply 
them  literally  in  the  case  of  those  whose  circumstances  may  differ 
much  from  his.  The  general  principle  which  is  obvious,  is  all  that 
is  needed.  The  wisdom  of  the  serpent,  blended  with  the  harmless- 
ness  of  the  dove,  which  the  missionary's  profession  assumes  that  he 
possesses,  will  enable  him  rightly  and  readily  to  apply  the  principle  to 
his  practice.  As  was  Paul,  so  is  Yi^,  free  from  all  men.  On  his  own 
account,  he  may,  when  he  goes  among  the  Eastern  churches^  insist 
on  the  entire  simplicity  of  the  gospel  system,  as  it  was  left  by  the 
Saviour  and  his  apostles.  And  he  may  adhere  to  the  manners  and 
customs  of  his  native  land  and  urge  them  on  others,  in  the  spirit  of 
d  faithful  patriot,  in  matters  not  at  variance  with  the  gospel.  He 
may  do  this,  so  far  as  he,  as  di private  believer,  is  himself  concerned. 
He  is  Christ's  freeman, — in  bondage  to  no  one.  But  the  raissiona-' 
ry  is  not  an  isolated  being.  And  his  voluntarily  assumed  responsi- 
bilities, as  an  ambassador  of  Christ,  thongh  thus  free,  render  it  just 
as  incumbent  on  him  as  it  was  on  Paul,  to  make  himself  a  servant 
to  all  men.  If  Paul,  for  the  gospel's  sake,  felt  called  upon  to  adopt 
many  of  the  religious  practices  of  the  Jews,  which  had  been  super- 
seded by  the  gospel  dispensation,  the  modern  missionary  may,  at 
least,  feel  justified  in  letting  alone  unessential  practices,  (which  prac- 
tices may  have  been,  in  their  origin,  not  anti-scriptural,  though  now 
so  grossly  perverted,)  the  attacking  of  which  might  shut  the  door 
of  access  for  preaching  Christ  at  once  against  him  ! 

There  is  aJso  the  same  reason  for  the  modern  missionary,  as  for 
the  apostle,  not  to  offend  the  people  whom  he  would  benefit,  in  the 
common  matters  of  life,  as  well  as  in  relation  to  their  religious  cus- 
toms and  prejudices.  Disregard,  in  the  one  case,  might  as  effectu- 
ally destroy  his  influence  as  in  the  other.  There  is,  moreover,  much 
reason  to  question,  whether  in  many  of  the  habits  and  customs  that 
prevail,  in  foreign  lands,  which  the  young  missionary,  fresh  from 
his  native  shores,  with  his  native  partialities  and  patriotism  in  full 
vigor,  might  naturally  enough  desire  to  introduce,  would  be  of  real 


SMALL,  AS  WELL  AS  GREAT  SACRIPICES.  357 


advantage.  The  oriental  house*  must  be  built  of  oriental  materials 
and  adapted  to  an  eastern,  and  not  a  western  clime.  And  many  of 
the  social  changes  which  he  might  be  conscientiously  officious  to 
urge,  would  be  found,  on  experiment,  no  improvements  on  existing 
usage;  the  danger  of  exciting  prejudice,  entirely  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. At  any  rate,  the  way  to  introduce  such  changes  as  are  desi- 
rable is,  not  to  begin  abruptly,  but  by  gradual,  conciliatory  mea- 
sures. As  the  course  pursued  by  the  apostle  was  the  only  reasona- 
ble one,  viewed  in  the  abstract,  the  same  is  equally  so  in  relation  to 
the  modern  missionary.  Did  Paul  make  the  greater  sacrifices  and 
should  he  thwart  his  object  by  failing  to  make  the  less ?  Did  he 
suffer  the  loss  of  all  things  and  finally  lay  down  his  life  to  glorify 
the  Saviour,  and  would  he  have  been  a  reasonable  man,  to  have  al- 
lowed that  grand  object  to  be  defeated,  or  hindered,  by  refusing  to 
submit  to  such  trifling  matters,  as  shaving  his  head,  keeping  the 
passover,  abstaining  from  meat  that  had  been  offered  to  idols,  or 
even  circumcising  a  companion! 

We  hear  of  heroic  Moravians,  who  sold  themselves  into  bondage, 
that  they  might  secure  a  passage  to  the  West  India  Islands  and  a 
residence  there,  to  preach  Christ  to  the  perishing  slaves  1  Would 
those  Moravians  have  been  reasonable  men,  had  they,  on  their  arri- 
val, closed  the  ears  and  steeled  the  hearts  of  their  companions  in 
bondage  towards  them,  by  failing  to  yield  trifles, — by  disputing,  for 
instance,  with  those  simple  sons  of  nature,  which  should  be  regard- 
ed as  preferable  in  warding  off"  a  torrid  sun,  a  white  cap  or  a  black 
one  1  Or,  which  were  the  most  convenient,  in  weeding  the  sugar- 
cane, a  short  hoe,  or  a  long  one  7  Or  respecting  other  such  trifles, 
as  meat,  drink,  apparel  or  equipage"?  Or,  had  their  discussions 
extended  to  religious  matters,  would  it  have  been  reasonable  in  the 
missionaries,  to  have  ofiended  them  by  insisting  on  this  or  that  atii- 
tude  in  worship,  and  thus  have  failed  to  secure  for  Christ  the  hom- 
age of  their  afltections  1 

And  in  relation  to  us  who  go  to  Persia, — who  yield  up  the  ten 
thousand  endearments  of  the  land  of  our  fathers  to  bring  the  per- 
ishing to  a  knowledge  of  salvation,  would  it  be  reasonable  in  us,  to 
impede  that  momentous  object,  by  refusing  to  accommodate  our- 
selves in  things  indifferent, — to  object,  for  instance,  to  burden  our 
faces  with  the  weight  of  mustaches  and  whiskers ;  or  neglect  to  vis- 
it the  people,  at  their  houses,  because  we  must  there  do  the  penance 
of  sitting  on  the  floor  and  eating  with  our  fingers  ?  Or,  in  relation 
to  their  religious  feelings  and  usages,  refuse  to  do  as  Paul  did,  in 
like  circumstances,  treat  them  with  tenderness  and  caution  ? 


*  The  missionary,  for  instance,  who  would  build  for  himself  a  framed 
bouse,  in  Persia,  (could  timber  be  procured,)  instead  of  a  mud  one,  should 
bear  in  mind,  that  the  parching  dryness  and  penetrating  heat  of  that  climato, 
would  soon  warp  every  shingle  and  clapboard  and  perhaps  every  floor-board, 
from  their  places  and  split  them  in  pieces.  It  is  very  difficult  to  keep  arti- 
cles of  furniture  there,  under  cover,  in  a  state  of  preservation. 


358 


SOUKCE  OF  DANGER  VIEWS  OF  PATRONS. 


The  missionary,  who  goes  forth  with  any  due  measure  of  his  Mas- 
ter's spirit,  is  ready  to  make,  both  small  and  great  sacrifices,  in  mat- 
ters of  every  description,  for  the  advancement  of  the  grand  object 
that  carries  him  to  his  field.  The  holy  Baxter  speaks  of  cler- 
gymen of  his  day  who  thought  more  of  the  position  of  a  button 
on  (heir  coats,  than  of  the  salvation  of  a  soul.  But  such  reckless- 
ness will,  we  trust,  be  found  in  no  man  who  bears  the  name  of  a 
Protestant  missionary.  Indeed  the  danger  may  arise  from  just  the 
reverse  of  this  unconcern.  The  ardor  of  his  zeal — the  intensity  of 
his  desires  to  lead  the  benighted  around  him  immediately  to  em- 
brace the  gospel,  may  prompt  the  missionary — particularly  the 
young  missionary — to  strike  roughly  at  their  religious  prejudices, 
in  the  hope  of  clearing  them  all  at  once  away,  and  bringing  the  per- 
ishing directly  to  the  fountain  of  salvation.  But  the  example  of  Paul 
and  his  own  mature  experience,  would  lead  him  tremblingly  to  ap- 
prehend, that  such  a  blow  might  dash  the  cup  of  life,  which  he  is 
hastening  to  bear  to  them,  forever  beyond  their  reach,  and  perhaps 
beyond  the  reach  of  their  children. 

I  shall  not  of  course  be  understood,  by  the  caixlid  at  least,  to  ad- 
vocate an  indiscriminate  conformity  in  the  missionary  to  native  cus- 
toms. Such  a  conformity  is  not  demanded  by  the  interests  of  our 
work,  even  among  the  Nestorians,  the  purest  portion  of  the  orien- 
tal churches.  Its  effect  would  be  to  diuiinish  rather  than  increase 
the  missionary's  influence,  for  the  time,  and  yet  more  serious  would 
be  the  ultimate  injury.  But  equally  true  is  it,  that  in  some,  in  many 
points,  of  etiquette  and  equipage,  he  must  conform  or  sacrifice  the 
momentous  objects  of  his  mission.  And  while  we  may  be  called 
upon  to  adopt  none  of  the  religious  peculiarities  of  that  people,  the 
dictates  of  common  prudence  and  the  spirit  of  the  gospel  require  us 
to  let  them  alone,  or  if  we  touch  them,  to  treat  them  with  tender- 
ness and  caution. 

To  us  who  feel  the  responsibility  of  acting  in  relation  to  these 
things,  it  is  matter  of  unfeigned  gratitude,  that  our  patrons  have  in- 
telligent and  judicious  views  on  these  subjects  and  particularly  in 
relation  to  the  religious  observances  of  the  Eastern  churches.  The 
reader  will  recollect  the  views  contained  in  my  Instructions,  by  one 
of  the  Secretaries  of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.,  as  quoted  in  the  second 
chapter  of  this  volume.  In  the  Instructions*  delivered  to  another 
member  of  our  mission  at  a  subsequent  period,  the  same  Secretary 
says,  "  We  would  exhort  you  not  to  descend  from  the  high  spiritual 
position  on  which  Christ  has  placed  you,  by  his  commission,  to 
publish  the  gospel,  and  not  discussions  about  feasts  and  fasts — about 
rites  and  ceremonies — about  the  thousand  modes  and  forms  of  re- 
ligious observance  which  the  people  among  whom  you  go  have  sub- 
stituted for  the  gospel, — though  these  discussions  have  their  place 
and  importance  and  will  occasionally  be  forced  upon  you.  Address 


*  Missionary  Herald— Sept.  16.39. 


COURSE  PURSUED  BY  LUTHEK. 


359 


men  in  view  of  that  moral  'nature  which  is  common  to  all  men  as 
sinners — lost — perishing — needing  a  Saviour.  And  preach  to  them 
Jesus.  Aim  at  the  conscience  and  the  heart.  Make  your  attacks 
directly  upon  the  citadel.  Take  the  strong  hold,  and  the  outposts 
will  surrender  of  course.  Cleanse  the  fountains  and  the  streams 
will  be  purified.    Make  good  tlie  tree  and  its  fruit  will  be  good." 

And  in  entire  accordance  with  these  views  are  liie  Instructions  to 
a  member*  of  the  mission  at  Constantinople,  delivered  about  the 
same  time.  "  You  are  not  sent  among  those  churches  to  proselyte. 
Let  the  Armenian  remain  an  Armenian  if  he  will, — and  the  Greek, 
a  Greek;  and  the  Nestorian,  a  Nestorian;  and  the  oriental,  an 
oriental.  Modes  of  government,  both  civil  and  ecclesinstical,  are 
doubtless  important;  but  they  are  not  the  great  thing.  We  cannot 
afford  to  spend  much  of  our  tnne,  strength  and  money  upon  them, 
while  so  great  a  work  lies  before  us,  as  the  conversion  of  the  world. 
It  may  also  be  said  of  the  rites  and  ceremonies  of  those  sects,  that 
they  are  mere  out-works,  which  it  is  not  necessary  to  remove,  be- 
fore you  come  to  the  citadel ;  and  an  assault  upon  them  will  awaken 
more  alarm — more  fierce  hostility — more  general  and  decided  op- 
position, than  upon  the  citadel  itself  Direct  your  whole  force  to 
the  principal  post,  and  when  that  is  taken,  the  others  will  fall  at 
once.  It  is  not  the  rites,  ceremonies  and  superstitions  of  these  peo- 
ple, that  you,  a  foreigner  and  stranger,  can  attack  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage; and  these  will  be  corrected,  as  a  thing  of  course,  when 
your  main  work  is  accomplished." 

It  would  not  be  difficult  to  show,  by  reference  to  the  subject,  that 
even  the  impetuous  Luther,  as  he  is  often  erroneously  viewed,  adopt- 
ed essentially  this  same  conservative  course,  in  the  commencement 
of  the  glorious  Protestant  reformation,  and  pursued  it  until  the  ir- 
resistible power  and  rapidity  of  its  progress,  bore  him  along  and 
compelled  him  to  gird  on  his  armor  and  openly  take  the  field.  Merle 
D'Aubigne's  History  of  the  Reformation  is  hardly  a  less  instructive 
text-book  on  the  best  method  of  conducting  missions  to  the  oriental 
churches,  than  a  faithful  chronicler  of  the  times  and  events  of  which 
it  treats.  After  all,  the  missionary  to  those  fallen  churches,  often 
feels  his  need  of  higher  than  human  guidance  to  lead  him  in  the 
right  way  on  these  subjects.  And  if  some  at  home,  who  are  so  un- 
sparing in  their  censures  on  him,  for  what  they,  in  their  inexperience 
and  want  of  acquaintance  with  the  circumstances,  deem  too  conser- 
vative a  line  of  policy,  would  devote  the  time  and  thought  thus  ex- 
pended, to  prayer,  in  asking  for  him  that  wisdom  which  is  from 
above  and  is  able  to  direct,  they  would  much  better  subserve  the 
interests  of  the  great  cause  and  more  consistently  attest  their  at- 
tachment and  devotion  to  the  same. 

Before  dismissing  this  subject,  I  should  perhaps  guard  the  reader 
against  supposing,  that,  while  I  advocate  conservativcness  in  mission- 


*  Rev.  Mr.  Hamlin. 


360 


ARGUMENT  FOR  EPISCOPACY  LOGIC. 


ary  labors  among  the  oriental  churches,  I  have  any  fellowship  with 
that  adoration  of  forms  and  shadows — "that  homage,"  as  another 
has  expressed  it,  "  paid  to  the  altar,  rather  than  to  the  God  of  the 
altar," — whicli  is  now  so  rife  in  America  as  well  as  in  England.  This 
modern  pharisaism  has  thrust  itself  upon  my  attention,  in  the 
course  of  my  visit  to  the  U.  S.  in  connexion  with  the  Ncstorian 
bishop,  in  instances  enough,  if  described,  to  fill  a  volume,  and  in  a 
manner  not  a  little  painful  to  contemplate.  Not  long  after  our  visit 
to  Virginia,  an  editor  of  a  religious  Newspaper,*  in  that  State,  sent 
me  a  number,  which  tells  the  whole  story  in  few  words,  and  from 
which  I  give  below  an  extract  to  the  reader. 

"  A  New  Argument  for  Episcopacy. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Perkins  and  Mar  Yohannan  have  recently  been  on 
a  visit  to  the  friends  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Holladay,  in  Virginia,  A  few 
days  ago,  the  Episcopal  clergyman  in  one  of  our  towns  in  which 
they  stopped  for  the  Sabbath,  importuned  the  good  bishop  to  attend 
his  church  half  of  the  day,  which  the  stranger  did.  The  clergyman,  in 
the  integrity  of  his  heart,  seized  upon  the  opportunity  to  make  zglori- 
Jication  of  Episcopacy,  a  thing  which  has  been  so  repeatedly  attempt- 
ed, in  similar  circumstances,  since  Mar  Yohannan's  arrival  in  this 
country,  as  not  a  little  to  annoy  him,  as  he  himself  informs  us, — the 
artless  Nestorian,  in  his  own  simple  language,  having  come  to  Amer- 
ica, not  to  divide  Christians  here,  but  to  hold  communion  with  all 
who  love  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  of  whatever  name;  whereas,  the 
Episcopalians ,  he  adds,  always  inquire  eagerly  of  him  about  the 
forms  and  ceremonies  of  his  church,  (the  fjrst  question  uniformly 
being,  how  many  orders  of  clergy  have  you,)  while  they  ask  hardly 
ever  a  word  about  the  state  of  morals  or  vital  religion  among  his 
people. 

But  we  hasten  to  the  logic  of  the  subject.  The  Episcopal  cler- 
gyman, in  question,  labored  to  prove  to  his  congregation,  in  the 
presence  of  Mar  Yohannan,  that  the  Nestorians  are  Episcopalians ; 
and  as  they  refer  their  conversion  to  Christianity  back  to  the  time 
of  the  apostles,  therefore,  modern  Episcopacy  must  be  apostolic. 
One  link  in  the  ponderous  chain  of  argumentation,  leading  to  this 
conclusion,  as  alluded  to  by  the  good  clergyman,  (and  we  suppose 
originated  by  him,)  was  the  resemblance  between  Mar  Yohannan's 
CLOAK  and  the  Episcopal  robe.  But  unfortunately  for  the  argument, 
Mar  Yohannan's  cloak  is  the  common  Persian  cloak,  worn  alike  by 
all  sects  and  classes  in  Persia,  as  Mr.  Perkins  informs  us, — nothing 
but  the  bishop's  cap,  in  his  dress,  being  peculiar  and  distinctive  of 
his  clerical  office.  The  zealous  Episcopal  champion  must  in  consis- 
tency, therefore,  claim  all  the  Persians,  Muhammedans,  as  well  as 
others — the  reverend  Moolldhs  among  the  rest — to  be  good  brother 


*  Watchman  of  the  South,  Vol.  V.  No.  38.  May  12,  1842. 


SCAFFOLDING  NOT  THE  TEMPLE. 


361 


Episcopalians  ;  i.  e.  if  the  fashion  of  Mar  Yohannan's  cloak  makes 
him  an  Episcopalian. 

On  hearing  of  this  argument,  [continues  the  paper,]  we  were  re- 
minded of  an  instance  of  the  application  of  similar  logic,  on  another, 
but  perhaps  somewhat  similar,  subject.  It  was  at  a  time  when  an^i- 
masynry  raged,  particularly  in  the  northern  sections  of  our  country. 
The  honest  masons,  like  good  Episcopalians  of  our  day,  were  zeal- 
ous, of  course,  in  bringing  forth  their  strong  reasons  in  support  of 
their  system.  Arfd  one  old  gentleman,  in  the  ardor  of  his  zeal,  to 
establish  the  antiquity  of  freemasonry,  declared  that  our  venerable 
father  Adam,  was  himself  a  freemason;  and  when  called  upon  for 
proof  of  that  position,  '  Why,' said  he,  'we  have  it  recorded  in 
the  Bible,  that  Adam  wore  an  apron  !^ 

Oh  what  a  pity,  that  the  builders  of  Christ's  spiritual  temple,  (for 
such  we  believe  many  of  our  Episcopal  brethren  to  be,)  should  think 
so  much  more  of  the  fashion  and  fabric  of  their  scaffolding,  than  of 
the  temple  itself!  Such  builders  will  sooner  or  later  find,  when 
the  scaffolding  shall  be  seen  to  be  only  scaffolding ,  and  shall  be 
thrown  aside  as  useless,  that  they  have  labored  in  vain,  and  spent 
their  strength  for  nought.  How  must  such  zeal  for  form  appear,  to 
an  artless  mind,  unaccustomed  to  it  !^  Listen,  and  see  how  it  does 
appear.  In  our  town,  on  the  first  evening  of  Mr.  Perkins's  and  Mar 
Yohannan's  arrival  here,  two  Episcopalian  clergyman  were  the  first 
to  make  their  way  to  their  lodgings;  and  wished  the  bishop  to  be  at 
their  churches  both  morning  a;nd  evening  on  the  Sabbath — one  of 
them  confidently  urging,  we  have  a  claim,  because  you  belong  to  us. 

*  I  do  not  wish  to  hear  this  word,'  earnestly  replied  Mar  Yohannan  ; 

*  I  have  not  come  here  to  make  difference  among  Christians ;  1  love 
all  who  love  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ.  The  name  is  nothing,  hut  faith 
and  love;  I  desire  to  see  all  Christians,  in  your  happy  country,  love 
one  another — I  do  not  wish  to  hear  you  say,  you  belong  to  us.  We 
all  have  one  Lord  ;  we  will  all  go  to  one  heaven.'' 

What  reply  could  our  worthy  Episcopal  brother  make  to  this 
pointed  lecture  from  the  artless  Nestoriau  prelate  1  Not  one  word. 
And  if  it  is  not  enough  to  rebuke  the  party  zeal,  which  is  so  arro- 
gant, at  the  present  time,  in  many  of  our  Episcopal  friends,  then 
that  arrogance  must  surely  be  girded  in  a  brazen — yea,  a  thrice 
brazen,  coat  of  mail !" 

While  I  am  constrained  to  admit  the  general  correctness  of  the 
above  statements,  I  by  no  means  suppose  that  all,  and  I  trust  not 
the  mass  of  Episcopalians,  in  this  country,  are  possessed  of  such  a 
zeal  for  forms.  I  have  heard  many  in  that  'communion,  deplore 
the  existence  of  the  evil,  by  whom  the  spirit  of  worldly  aspiration, 
that  has  sprung  up  in  a  portion  of  their  church  and  seems  to  be 
threatening  its  vitality,  is  doubtless  as  deeply  regretted,  as  it  can  be, 
by  us. 

46 


362 


ATTACK  UPON  MAR  YOHANNAJT. 


As  matter  of  fact,  the  case  of  the  Nestoriaiis  furnishes  nothing 
peculiar,  that  nnakes  for  the  zealots  of  Episcopacy.  They  were 
separated  from  the  general  church,  toward  the  middle  of  the  fifth 
century;  a  period  subsequent,  as  every  reader  of  church  history  is 
of  course  ready  to  acknowledge,  to  the  time  when  Episcopal  polity 
was  generally  adopted.  Long  ages  of  night,  dark  enough  to  bring 
forth  almost  any  form  or  doctrine,  had  preceded  that  separation. 
Their  case,  therefore,  proves  no  more  on  the  age  of  Episcopacy, 
which  is  not  admitted,  than  that  of  the  Greeks,  the  Armenians, 
or  the  Papists.  But  it  is  as  far  from  my  inclination,  as  it  is  foreign 
to  the  objects  of  this  volume,  to  discuss  the  merits  of  any  system  of 
Church  polity,  or  to  impair  the  just  claims  of  any. 

While  it  is,  of  course,  much  to  be  lamented  that  a  christian  pre- 
late from  benighted  Asia,  should  witness  such  devefopments  of  a 
narrow  exclusiveness  among  Christians  in  Protestant  America,  it 
is  matter  of  unfeigned  gratitude  to  God,  that  he  has  not,  as  we 
trust,  been  thus  injured.  He  has  been  disappointed  by  it,  and  of- 
ten not  a  little  grieved;  particularly,  by  some  open  attacks  upon 
himself,  in  periodicals.  That  I  may  do  nobody  injustice,  and  not 
be  mistaken,  on  this  subject,  I  will  quote  from  documents.  The 
Churchman,  an  Episcopal  paper  of  New  York,  contains  the  fol- 
lowing article. 


"  Mar  Yohannan. 

Mr.  JEditor, — At  the  risk  of  bringing  up  an  unwelcome  subject, 
I  wish  to  say  a  few  words,  concerning  the  person,  whose  name  stands 
at  the  head  of  this  article.  I  wish  to  speak  to  the  merits  of  the  case, 
33  it  now  stands,  and  with  as  little  reference  to  the  Nestorians  as  may 
be;  not  because  I  consider  it  unimportant  that  their  true  position 
should  be  known,  or  look  upon  them  in  any  other  light  than  as 
justly  condemned  by  a  general  council ;  but  because  I  desire  rather 
to  look  at  the  immediate  question,  concerning  Mar  Yohannan- 

1.  What  evidence  has  Mar  Yohannan  brought,  to  substantiate 
his  claims  to  the  office  of  a  bishop  1  Anything  more  than  his  own 
assertion,  backed  by  the  declaration  of  the  missionary  who  accom- 
panies him  ?  If  so,  is  this  enough  1  Mr.  Geo.  Montgomery  West 
declared  himself  to  he  a  bishop,  and  so  have  some  other  persons,  on 
very  insufficient  grounds ;  and  it  strikes  me,  that  the  less  we  know 
of  a  church,  the  more  we  should  require  cert&in  proof  of  its  claims. 
Is  not  the  truth  this ;  that  we  are  over  anxious  to  grasp  at  the  proof 
to  the  claims  of  the* Episcopacy,  afforded  in  such  instances  as  that 
of  Mar  Yohannan,  and  therefore  are  willing  to  admit  the  claims  of 
persons,  situated  as  he  is,  on  easy  trust  ?  I  may  be  wrong  in  al} 
this,  but  it  strikes  me  as  a  point  worthy  of  consideration. 

2.  What  does  Mar  Yohannan  himself  believe,  in  relation  to  the 


WANT  OF  CREDENTIALS  CHARGES. 


363 


points  conderpned  by  the  council  of  Ephesiis?  That  council  did 
condemn  something.  Some  have  supposed,  something  not  held  by 
Nesiorius,  and  therefore,  not  him.  Be  that  as  it  may,  though  one 
would  suppose  tlie  chances  quite  as  great  that  the  council  were 
right,  in  their  view  of  Nestorius,  as  we,  at  this  late  day,  can  be; 
they  did  condemn  something;  and  that  something,  whatever  it  be, 
is  heresy;  and  they  who  hold  it  are  heretics,  whether  Nestorius 
held  it  or  not ;  or  whether  they  have  had  anything  to  do  with  him 
or, not.  That  which  the  council  did  condemn  was  this;  the  notion 
that  Christ  was  not  born,  God  and  man  ;  and  consequently,  that 
the  Virgin  was  not  the  mother  of  God,  but  of  a  oian,  in  whom  God 
afterward  dwelt.  Now  does  not  Mar  Yohannan  hold  this  very  doc- 
trine 1  I  have  reason  to  feel  well  assured  that  he  does.  This  may 
be  known;  certainly,  the  clergy  must  have  conversed  with  him  on 
this  point,  and  his  opinion  can  be  had.  Why  then  should  not  this 
be  definitely  ascertained? 

3.  What  effect  should  Mar  Yohannan's  associating  himself  with 
separatists  have  upon  us  1  If  an  English  bishop  came  to  this  coun- 
try, and,  avoiding  his  legitimate  brethren,  threw  himself  into  the 
hands  of  separatists,  what  effect  would  it  have  on  his  reception  1  I 
know  it  may  be  said,  that  Mar  Yohannan  could  have  known  nothing' 
of  our  church,  before  he  came  hither.  This  is  no  excuse  for  com- 
mitting schism,  in  the  manner  he  has  done;  ahd  by  this  time,  he 
does  know  about  our  church  ;  and  yet,  how  has  his  course  changed  1 

I  have  not  spoken  these  things  in  the  order  in  which  they  would 
naturally  come  up.  That  wouIq  be  this  :  What  does  Mar  Yohan- 
nan himself  believe  ?  If  here,  he  is  cleared  of  the  condemned  here- 
sy, call  it  Nestorianism,  or  what  you  will;  then  the  next  question 
is,  what  proofs  has  he,  of  his  consecration  and  succession  7  If  these 
are  found  satisfactory,  the  inquiry  will  follow ;  has  not  this  bishop, 
by  his  intercommunion  with  separatists,  so  put  himself  under  the 
censure  of  the  church,  and  so  violated  unity,  that  he  must  be  put  in 
the  same  category  with  those,  in  whose  company  he  is  found  1  And 
all  this  will  be  in  accordance  with  the  apostolic  canons ;  the  direc- 
tions of  which,  on  these  points,  are  1.  That  heretics  shall  not  be 
received  into  communion;  2.  That  no  strange  bishop  shall  be  re- 
ceived without  letters  commendatory ;  3.  That  those  bishops  who 
pray  with  heretics  shall  not  be  received  into  communion  ;  and  those 
who  suffer  them  to  officiate  as  clergymen  shall  be  deposed.  In  one 
or  all  of  these  points,  Mar  Yohannan  will  certainly  be  found  want- 
ing; and  either  is  sufficient  to  exclude  him  from  communion.  I 
may  add,  that  in  the  last  Report  of  the  Board  of  American  Mis- 
sions [the  American  Board,  etc.]  it  is  stated,  that  the  Nestorians 
had  lent  one  of  their  churches-  to  the  Presbyterians  and  oUowed  them 
to  hold  an  ordination  in  it !  Query."* 


*  The  Churchman,  Vol.  la.  No.  36.  Nov.  12.  1842. 


364 


APOLOGY  RING  ORDINATION. 


r  have  little  disposition  to  notice  at  length  any  of  the  points  men- 
tioned in  the  above  article.  As,  however,  I  engaged  to  protect  Mar 
Yohannan,  during  his  travels  in  this  country,  I  shall  be  excused  for 
offering  a  {ew  words  as  his  apologist.  In  relation  to  his  claims  to 
the  rank  and  title  of  a  bishop,  he  probably  never  suspected  that  they 
would  be  called  in  question  here,  under  the  circumstances  in  which 
he  came.  He  was  not  a  great  deal  surprised,  when,  on  visiting  the 
Greek  Patriarch,  at  Constantinople,  that  dignitary  demanded  of  him 
the  display  of  a  ring,  as  a  voucher  of  his  office.  And  though  defi- 
cient in  this  token,  he  readily  found  relief  by  playfully  reminding 
the  Patriarch  of  the  comment,  on  ihe  gold  ring  on  tkc.  finger,  in  the 
epistle  of  James.  Not  expecting  to  be  called  upon  for  written  cre- 
dentials, in  Protestant  America,  while  accompanying  the  living  mis- 
sionary, he  is  here,  to  be  sure,  entirely  unfurnished  with  such  docu- 
ments. In  relation  to  his  associating  with  different  denominations 
of  Christians,  in  America,  he  has  done  this,  alike  from  choice  and 
from  principle;  and  with  the  impression,  that  he  was  strengthening, 
rather  than  infringing,  the  bonds  of  christian  unity  in  so  doing.  And 
the  fraternal  reception  which  he  has  in  general  met,  from  all,  whether 
in  public  ecclesiastical  bodies,  religious  meetings,  or  social  inter- 
course, has  deeply  and  delightfully  impressed  him  with  the  truth  of 
the  apostolic  declaration,  that  all  true  Christians,  of  whatever  name, 
have  one  Lord,  one  faith,  one  baptism  and  one  God  and  Father 
of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ.  In  relation  to  the  ordination  of  a 
member  of  our  mission  in  a  Nestorian  church,  the  facts  are  essen- 
tially as  stated.  It  was  the  same  spirit  of  christian  fellowship 
which  has  marked  his  course,  in  this  country,  that  led  Mar  Yohan- 
nan  and  the  other  bishops  of  Oroomiah,  to  welcome  us  to  the  use 
of  that  church, — and  the  same  which  prompts  them  to  introduce  us 
into  all  their  churches,  to  praach  the  gospel  to  their  people,  in  the 
fi-aternal  manner  described  in  the  course  of  this  volume.  That 
this  bishop  has  usually  accompanied  the  author,  with  whom  he  had 
been  associated  seven  years  before  leaving  his  native  country,  and 
to  whom,  as  his  guardian,  he  committed  himself  and  was  committed 
by  his  people,  during  his  visit  to  this  land  of  strangers,  can  hardly 
appear  singular,  or  unreasonable,  to  those  acquainted  with  the  cir- 
cumstances,— certainly  not,  to  the  reader  who  has  perused  this  vol- 
ume in  course  ;  nor  more  so,  that  he  should  mingle  principally  with 
those  denominations,  who  have,  so  many  years,  had  missionaries 
among  his  people,  and  whom  he  and  they  wish  to  occupy  the  field, 
so  long  as  the  Nestorians  shall  need  the  aid  of  foreign  laborers. 

But  I  am  perhaps  in  danger  of  forestalling  the  bishop,  and  will  let 
him  offer  his  own  vindication,  and  in  his  own  manner.  Several 
articles,  attacking  him,  had  appeared  from  a  certain  town  in  New 
England,  which,  though  they  crept  into  a  periodical  of  another  de- 
nomination and  in  another  State,  readily  revealed  their  origin  to 
those  acquainted  with  certain  incidents  connected  with  the  bishop's 


VINDICATION  INQUIRIES. 


365 


visit  to  the  said  town,  and  with  the  course  pursued  there  by  certain 
'proselytes  to  Episcopacy.  The  paragraphs  to  which  I  refer,  had 
repeatedly  been  mentioned  to  Mar  Yohannan,  by  different  persons; 
but  he  happily  felt  little  troubled  about  them-  When,  however,  the 
article  that  I  have  quoted,  came  out,  with  his  name  in  capitals  as  a 
title,  and  became  matter  of  common  conversation,  among  the  stu- 
dents of  the  place  where  he  was  residing,  he  was  so  much  annoyed 
on  the  subject,  that  he  resolved  on  putting  forth  a  public  vindication, 
through  the  Boston  Recorder,  which  is  almost  the  only  religious 
paper  with  whose  name  he  is  familiar.  I  advised  him  not  to  enter 
into  a  newspaper  controversy,  in  a  land  of  strangers,  and  with  his 
imperfect  knowledge  of  our  language;  and  he  yielded  to  this  advice, 
but  on  condition  that  I  would  introduce  his  reply,  which  he  had 
already  prepared,  into  my  volume.  It  is  therefore  to  redeem  a 
pledge,  as  well  as  to  enable  the  bishop  to  tell  his  own  story,  that  I 
give  to  the  reader  a  translation  of  it  in  this  connexion. 


Mar  Yohannan 's  Vindication. 

"  My  brethren  of  the  Episcopalians: 

What  evil  or  wicked  thing  have  I  wrought,  in  relation  to  you, 
that  some  of  you  should  write  about  me  in  your  newspapers,  and 
scatter  them  through  all  America? 

1.  I  am  one  poor  man  and  my  nation  is  poor,  I  came  to  thank 
Christians  in  this  country,  for  having  helped  us  and  to  ask  them  to 
help  us  more,  for  the  name  of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ.  We  are 
members  of  one  another;  if  one  member  suffers,  do  not  all  suffer 
with  it  1  Well ;  if  you  had  desired  our  good,  would  you  not  some- 
times have  inquired  of  me  thus:  What  is  the  condition  of  your  peo- 
ple in  that  land  of  heathens  1  Is  there  a  church  there  ?  Are  there 
good  men  1  Are  there  tokens  of  the  influence  of  the  Holy  Spirit? 
What  is  the  state  of  knowledge  and  instruction  ?  What  are  the 
morals?  But  from  very  few  of  you  have  I  heard  one  of  these  ques- 
tions. Yon  Rsk,  hoio  many  07'ders  have  you?  My  friends, ^/brms  are 
nothing ;  '  Neither  is  circumcision  anything,  nor  uncircumcision, 
but  a  new  creature.' 

2.  If  you  say,  that  our  church  is  built  upon  the  apostolic  founda- 
tion, the  oldest  of  the  churches;  why,  shall  we  place  our  confidence 
in  age,  name,  or  forms?  No;  but  in  the  Lamb  of  God,  who  de- 
scended from  his  throne  on  high  to  save  that  which  was  lost.  Ob- 
serve  and  behold.  The  Creator  of  the  heights  and  of  the  depths, 
did  not  demean  himself  so  loftily  as  some  denominations,  who  say, 
WE  ARE  ;  there  is  no  other  true  church.  The  Lord  said.  Every  man 
who  exalteth  himself  shall  be  abased,  but  whosoever  humbleth  him- 
self shall  be  exalted.  Again;  your  church  came  out  from  the 
church  of  the  Pope.    Is  there  not  some  leaven  of  the  Pope  still  re- 


366 


MAUKS' — ARROGANCE  NESTORIUS. 


maining  in  many  of  you?  Take  care;  If  you  say,  "no,  this  word 
is  a  mistake,"  I  have  proofs.  What  are  those  pictures  in  some  of 
your  churches?  This  is  a  mark  of  the  Pope !  I  know  you  do  not 
worship  the  pictures  ;  but  your  children,  who  rise  up  after  you,  see- 
ing them  in  the  churches,  will  worship  them.  Mark  that  second 
commandment — God  said,  Thou  shall  not  make  unto  thee  any  like- 
ness, or  resemblance,  of  anything  in  heaven  above,  nor  in  the  earth 
beneath,  nor  in  the  waters  under  the  earth.  Another  command- 
ment of  God  is,  Love  your  neighbors  as  yourselves ;  but  you  say, 
OUR  CHURCH  IS  GREAT.  Very  well ;  your  church  has  become  great, 
has  it  1  Why  1  that  it  may  despise  small  churches  ?  Our  Lord  Je- 
sus Christ  says.  Whoever  will  be  greatest,  let  him  be  servant  of  all. 
This  haughtiness  is  another  mark  of  the  Pope,  who  teaches  that 
none  will  be  saved  who  are  out  of  his  Church. 

3.  Come,  let  us  see;  has  our  Lord  pronounced  blessings  on  the 
meek,  or  on  the  proud?  I  believe  he  pronounced  his  blessings  on 
the  meek,  declaring  that  they  shall  inherit  the  earth.  Again,  said 
our  Lord,  two  men  went  up  into  the  temple  to  pray,  one  of  them  a 
pharisee  and  one  of  them  a  publican  ;  the  pharisee  proudly  offered 
his  prayer;  and  the  publican  in  humility;  God  heard  the  publican 
and  disregarded  the  pharisee.  So  every  one,  who  exalteth  himself, 
shall  be  abased,  and  he  that  humbleth  himself,  shall  be  exalted. 
King  David  also  says,  The  meek  shall  inherit  the  earth  and  shall 
delight  themselves  in  abundance  of  peace — and  many  other  like 
things  does  he  say  in  the  Psalms,  in  favor  of  the  lowly  and  against 
the  proud.  And  what  humility  did  our  Saviour  manifest,  when  He 
was  led  as  a  tamb  to  the  slaughter ;  and  as  a  sheep  dumb  before  her 
shearer,  so  he  opened  not  his  mouth,  according  to  the  words  of 
Isaiah. 

4.  Come,  let  us  see  about  Nestorius,  what  evil  he  has  wrought 
towards  you.  If  you  speak  of  other  nations,  he  has  sharply  rebuked 
them;  but  in  relation  to  you,  he  has  done  nothing.  And  others  he 
rebuked  for  their  idolatry,  in  calling  Mary  the  mother  of  God,  and 
many  other  wicked  works  which  were  done  among  those  nations, 
and  which  you  do  not  understand.  And  do  you,  too,  like  the  Cath- 
olics, cast  Nestorius  out  into  utter  darkness  ?  If  you  would  be  in- 
formed, Nestorius  has  marked  out  no  new  path  for  us.  We  have 
not  gone  after  him.  Our  nation  sympathized  with  him,  and  we  still 
love  him  as  our  ownselves ;  and  if  all  the  world  should  say  so,  we 
will  not  cast  him  off ;  for  he  was  persecuted  for  righteousness'  sake. 
Arid  our  Lord  has  said.  Blessed  are  they  who  are  persecuted  and 
evil  spoken  of,  for  righteousness'  sake;  their  reward  shall  be  great 
in  heaven. 

5.  I  do  not  say  that  your  way  [church  polity]  is  not  a  good  one 
— very  good,  if  you  properly  follow  it;  not  in  exclusiveness  and  os- 
tentation, saying,  we  are  the  only  true  church ;  nor  in  hypocrisy, 
like  sepulchres  which  are  white  without,  but  within,  full  of  all  un- 


FELLOWSHIP  NEW  ALLIANCES. 


367 


cleanness.  God  looketh  upon  the  lieart.  It  is  important  for  Chris- 
tians to  abound  in  love,  and  not  in  VcTin-glorying.  But  every  tree 
is  known  by  its  fruit ;  men  also,  by  their  works. 

6.  I  love  Episcopalians;  and  Congregationalists ;  and  Presbyte- 
rians; and  Dutchmen;  and  Lutherans;  and  Methodists;  and  Bap- 
tists,— all,  as  brethren  in  Christ.  There  is  no  difference  in  them 
with  me.  The  greater  brethren  are  all  these  ;  and  if  there  be  less, 
we  are  the  least.  We  open  our  churches  to  their  priests,  and  re- 
ceive them  as  the  priests  of  God  and  the  apostles  of  our  Lord.  Our 
Lord  said.  Whosoever  receiveth  a  prophet,  in  the  name  of  a  prophet, 
shall  receive  a  prophet's  reward.  And  whosoever  receiveth  a  right- 
eous man,  in  the  name  of  a  righteous  man,  shall  receive  a  righteous 
man's  reward.    Thus  have  we  learned  from  our  Lord. 

7.  You  are  .displeased  with  me,  are  you,  because  I  have  associa- 
ted with  the  Presbyterians  and  Congregationalists  ?  So  the  news- 
paper teaches.  I  do  not  practise  partiality.  Is  it  very  strange,  that  I 
associate  most  with  the  Presbyterians  and  Congregationalists  ?  No  ; 
they  are  equally  our  brethren  ;  and  tliey  have  come  and  helped  us,  in 
books  and  teachers,  and  have  done  a  great  and  good  work  for  our  na- 
tion. Ouffht  I  to  abandon  them  and  form  new  alliances  1  We  do 
not  so  understai;d  propriety  and  justice.  Would  it  not  have  be^n  a 
great  wonder,  very  wrong  in  me  and  very  bad  for  my  nation,  had  I 
forsaken  them  and  connected  myself  with  others  ?  It  would  be  a 
black  reproach  and  a  great  sin  for  us  thus  to  abuse  the  good  they 
have  done  for  us.  God  would  be  displeased  with  ns  for  such  a  course 
of  ingratitude.  But  we  will  never  be  unmindful  of  their  beneficence. 
We  will  cling  to  these  benefactors,  as  we  do  to  Nestorius.  Our 
Lord  Jesus  Christ  said,  Whoever  shall  give  to  drink  a  cup  of  cold 
water,  shall  not  lose  his  reward  ;  how  much  greater  will  be  the  re- 
ward of  those,  who  have  given  to  drink  the  instructions  of  Christ. 
And  shall  we  abuse  the  good  work  which  they  have  done  for  us  ? 
Never.  We  must  obey  God  rather  than  man  ;  and  keep  the  com- 
mandments of  God  rather  than  the  commandments  of  men.  We  all 
have  one  Lord^  one  faith,  one  baptism,  one  God  and  Father  of  our 
Lord  Jesus  Christ,  who  is  over  all  and  in  all ;  over  us,  over  you  and 
over  them;  who  will  judge  us  all  at  the  last  day  ;  and  if  found  at 
his  right  hand,  will  raise  us  all  to  the  same  heaven.  We  shall  dwell 
in  peace  together  there.  May  the  grace  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ, 
the  love  of  God  the  Father,  and  the  communion  of  the  Holy  Spirit 
be  with  us  all  forever,  Amen. 

Your  feJlow  sinner  and  unworthy  christian  brother, 

Mar  Yohannan." 

Nov.  1842. 

How  devoutly  it  is,  indeed,  to  be  wished,  that  aH  evangelical  de- 
nominations and  all  branches  and  members  of  each,  should,  as  they 
desire  the  advancement  of  Christ's  kingdom,  more  studiously  heed 


368 


HARMONY  DEATH  OF  MRS.  GRANT. 


the  injunction,  to  "  keep  the  unity  of  the  spirit  in  the  bond  of  peace." 
The  news  of  pecuniary  embarrassment,  by  which  we  have  been  so 
repeatedly  tried  and  cast  down,  in  our  distant  field,  has  never  sad- 
dened us,  like  the  tidings  of  division  and  strife,  in  the  churches  at 
home.  For  while  commercial  reverses  may,  for  a  season,  reduce 
the  pecuniary  means  of  our  patrons,  contention,  we  feel  assured,  will 
wither  the  life  of  the  missionary  spirit  and  of  piety  itself,  and  close 
both  the  hearts  and  the  hands  of  the  churches  to  the  wants  of  a  per- 
ishing world,  more  effectually  than  all  other  influences  combined. 

It  is  a  familiar  proverb,  that  the  approach  of  a  foreign  foe  quells 
internal  discord.  And  have  not  the  children  of  God,  common  ene- 
mies, sufficiently  formidable,  wakeful  and  near,  to  hush  their  mutual 
commotions,  unite  them  in  a  common  bond  and  prompt  them  to  a 
common  conflict?  Especially  is  it  most  fervently  to  be  desired, 
that  in  the  foreign  plans  and  operations  of  the  different  Protestant 
churches,  fraternal  harmony  should  prevail.  None  can  gain,  but 
all  must  lose,  by  collision  or  interference  abroad.  The  natives,  in 
benighted  lands,  however  slow  to  copy  what  is  lovely  and  of  good 
report,  are  quick  enough  to  discern  the  inconsistency  of  contentions, 
among  those  that  bring  to  them  good  tidings,  that  publish  jjeace. 
Let  it  be  the  earnest  prayer  of  all,  that  the  foreign  watchmen  may 
soon  see  eye  to  eye  and  together  sing,  not  more,  in  the  proximity  of 
their  stations,  than  in  the  harmony  of  their  feelings  and  their  efforts; 
and  that  believers  at  home  may  be  of  one  heart  and  one  mind.  And 
fondly  would  we  hope,  that  the  troublous  turmoil  of  foaming  waves 
and  billows  which  we  now  deplore, 

"Is  merely  the  working-  of  a  sea, 
Before  a  calm,  which  rocks  itself  to  rest." 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

JOURNAL  :  JANUARY— JUNE,  1839. 

At  this  period,  a  solemn  and  mournful  providence  clothed  our 
mission  in  sackcloth.  Several  of  our  number  had  been,  so  repeat- 
edly, laid  upon  the  brink  of  the  grave  by  disease,  and  again  raised 
up  to  health,  that  we  had  almost  ceased  to  apprehend  an  early  re- 
moval by  death,  when  the  youngest  and  one  of  the  healthiest,  was 
suddenly  cut  down.  Mrs.  Grant  is  the  only  adult  member  of  the 
mission  at  Oroomiah,  who  has  yet  died.  Her  short,  but  devoted 
and  useful  life,  and  her  peaceful  and  happy  death — a  living  and  a 


BIRTH  MIND  EDUCATION  CHARACTER.  369 


dying  sacrifice,  as  she  was,  to  the  welfare  of  the  people  and  the 
cause  that  form  our  general  subject — deserve  a  brief  record  in  this 
connexion. 

Mrs.  Judith  S.  Grant  was  the  adopted  daughter  of  the  Hon.  Wm. 
Campbell,  of  Cherry  Valley,  N.  Y.  She  was  born  Jan.  12,  1814. 
She  was  bereaved  of  her  mother,  when  only  three  days  old,  by 
whom,  in  the  near  prospect  of  death,  she  was  committed  to  Mrs. 
Campbell,  her  aunt,  who  received,  reared  and  educated  her,  as  her 
own  child.  Her  proper  name  was  Lathrop.  Her  excellent  foster- 
mother  early  cherished  a  strong  desire,  that  her  adoj)i(:d  daughter 
might  become  a  missionary ;  and  the  Head  of  missions  accepted  the 
parental  offering.  There  was,  however,  corresponding  effort,  in 
connexion  with  that  desire,  on  the  part  of  the  parent.  I  have  often 
heard  Mrs.  Grant  allude  to  little  sacrifices,  which  she  was  early 
taught,  by  her  mother,  to  make,  for  the  purpose  of  contributing 
something  to  missions ;  and  from  the  time  of  her  beginning  to  make 
these  sacrifices,  her  interest  became  deep  and  fixed,  in  the  great  cause. 

Mrs.  Grant  had  naturally  a  mind  of  a  very  high  order,  which  was 
enlarged,  polished  and  enriched  by  extensive  cultivation.  Its 
powers  were  all  symmetrically  and  early  developed.  But  a  little 
more  than  twenty-one  years  of  age  when  she  was  married,  she  pos- 
sessed, at  that  early  period,  a  maturity,  which  qualified  her  to  adorn 
any  circle,  and  fill  any  sphere  of  female  responsibility.  But  much  as 
we  saw  to  admire  in  the  cast  and  culture  of  her  mind,  there  was 
yet  more  to  love,  in  the  qualities  of  her  heart.  Frank  and  artless 
as  a  child,  she  was  still  discreet ;  cheerful,  in  all  circumstances, 
without  levity;  remarkably  patient  and  submissive  under  trials; 
possessing  a  kindness  of  disposition  that  seemed  to  know  no  bounds ; 
social,  to  an  extent  that  charmed  all  who  knew  her;  tender  and 
sympathetic  in  a  high  degree;  and  these  and  many  other  qualities 
of  a  kindred  nature,  all  sweetened  and  hallowed  by  warm  religious 
affection.  We  are  not  aware  at  precisely  what  period  she  cherished 
the  hope  of  personal  salvation.  She  made  a  public  profession  of 
religion,  April  3,  1831.  Her  piety  was  silent  and  unostentatious, 
but  strikingly  active  and  practical.  It  was  deep  and  uniforrp,  but 
never  officious  and  obtrusive. 

Mrs.  Grant  very  sooji  mastered  the  difficult  native  languages,  and 
engaged  with  much  zeal  and  ability  in  our  missionary  labors.  Pre- 
viously to  the  commencement  of  our  female  boarding-school,  she 
did  all  in  her  power  to  enlighten  and  benefit  the  native  females,  by 
teaching  some  of  her  domestics  to  read,  and  cultyvating  extensive  ac- 
quaintance among  both  Nestorians  and  Muhammedans  of  her  sex, 
by  whom  she  was  much  beloved.  When  our  female  school  was  at 
length  opened,  she  entered  with  peculiar  interest  and  ardor  upon  its 
instruction,  as  the  sphere  to  which  she  had  so  long  aspired.  And 
when  her  health  would  not  admit  of  her  going  to  the  school,  she  was 
accustomed  to  receive  and  instruct  the  girls,  an  hour  or  two  in  a  day, 
at  her  room. 

47 


370  ACTIVITY  IN  SICKNESS  DEATH-BED  SCENE. 


Perhaps  no  trait  in  her  very  estimable  character,  was  more  con- 
spicuous, than  her  promptness,  ability  and  delight,  in  administering 
relief  and  cooifort  in  the  chamber  of  sickness, — a  trait  unspeakably 
important,  in  every  missionary.  How  often  have  I  seen  her  hasten- 
ing like  an  angel  of  mercy,  from  house  to  house  and  room  to  room, 
when  several  of  our  mission  have  been  sick  at  the  same  time  ?  And 
often  have  most  of  us,  who  were  her  fellow-laborers,  been  tenderly 
affected  by  her  soothing  presence,  and  the  constancy  of  her  atten- 
tions and  efforts,  to  mitigate  our  pains  and  hasten  our  recovery. 
Mrs.  Grant  never  conceived  it  a  condescension  to  have  given  herself 
to  the  missionary  cause,  but  quite  the  reverse.  I  have  known 
her  shed  tears,  when  contemplating  the  interest  of  our  work,  and 
exclaim,  "why  was  one  so  unworthy  as  I  am,  permitted  to  live 
and  labor  in  such  a  field  !"  Nor  when  thus  cut  down  like  a  flower, 
did  she  regard  her  life  as  thrown  away,  or  regret  her  consecration 
to  the  cause  which  she  so  much  loved.  "  Tell  my  friends,"  she  said, 
in  the  course  of  her  sickness,  "  that  I  have  never  regretted  that  1 
came  to  Persia  as  a  missionary."  She  was  taken  sick,  on  the  3rd 
of  January  (1839).  Her  disease  was  a  violent,  bilious  intermittent 
fever.  From  the  commencement  of  the  attack,  she  regarded  her 
recovery  as  uncertain  and  rather  improbable,  and  accordingly  set 
her  house  in  order.  During  the  few  previous  months,  she  had  ap- 
peared unusually  weaned  from  the  world  and  rapidly  ripening  for 
her  rest  and  reward.  After  a  severe  sickness  of  eleven  days,  during 
which  she  was  cheered  in  her  lucid  intervals  by  the  light  of  the  Re- 
deemer's counterjance,  and  evidently  rapt,  in  her  erratic  moments, 
in  celestial  visions,  she  died,  Jan.  14,  at  the  age  of  twenty-five  years 
and  two  days.  Like  so  many  other  dying  mothers,  nor  least  often, 
the  female  missionary, 

She  set,  as  sets  the  morning  star  which  g-oes 
Not  down  behind  the  darkened  west,  3ior  hides. 
Obscured  among  the  tempests  of  the  sky, 
But  melts  away  into  the  light  of  Iieavcn. 

No  pen,  nor  pencil,  could  portray  the  affecting  interest  ofthat  death- 
bed scene, — the  little  group  of  fellow-pilgrims,  in  a  foreign,  benight- 
ed clime,  mutually  endeared  by  common  sufferings,  exposures,  joys 
and  sorrows,  gathered  round  the  departing  saint — a  golden  chain,  its 
links  bound  so  tenderly  to  each  other,  about  to  be  sundered — their 
number  diminished  and  their  strength  weakened  ;  a  husband,  be- 
reaved ;  three  young  children — two  of  them,  infant  twin-sisters 
— lo  be  left  orphans  in  a  land  of  darkness;  and  the  perishing  na- 
tives, crowding  around  and  uttering  their  load  lamentations  !  But 
the  dying  couch  of  the  missionary,  though  to  the  survivors,  peculiar- 
ly sorrowful,  is  also,  in  a  special  degree,  "  privileged  beyond  the 
common  walks  of  life — quite  on  the  verge  of  heaven." 

Mrs.  G's  death,  like  the  trump  of  an  angel,  sent  an  unwonted 
thrill  through  every  bosom  among  the  natives  connected  with  our 


INFLUENCE  POLITICAL  UxVCERTAINTY. 


371 


mission,  laying  all  hearts  open  to  admonition.  A  peaceful  and  hap- 
py death  is  a  piienomenon  which  they  had  seldom,  if  ever,  before 
witnessed;  and  this  made  a  very  deep  impression.  A  reiigion 
which  has  power,  not  only  to  control  and  hallow  the  life,  but  also 
to  impart  joy  and  triumph  in  the  hour  of  death,  is  something  which 
excites  their  marvel,  and  constrains  them  to  •  acknowledge,  that  it 
must  be  a  religion  which  conies  from  heaven  and  leads  to  heaven. 
It  was,  perhaps,  the  greatest  burden  of  Mrs.  Grant's  prayer,  during 
her  last  sickness,  that  her  death  might  be  made  an  instrument  of 
promoting  their  salvation.  We  trust  this  prayer  will  be  answered. 
Nor  did  her  dyin*  exhortations  and  the  solemn  providence,  we  be- 
lieve, fail  to  quicken  her  associates  also  in  their  preparation  for  death, 
and  in  doing  with  their  might  what  their  hands  find  to  do.  "  She 
hath  done  what  she  could,"  is  the  text  fronn  which  it  was  my  privi- 
lege to  preach  her  funeral  sermon,  and  which  was  subsequently  in- 
scribed on  her  tomb-stone — and  to  few  could  this  exalted  commen- 
dation of  our  Lord,  with  more  truth  be  applied,  than  to  this  gifted, 
devoted  young  missionary. 

A  letter  recently  received  from  our  excellent  friend,  Col.  Woodfall, 
states  that  the  prospect  of  an  immediate  adjustment  of  differences,  be- 
tween the  English  and  Persian  governments,  is  by  no  means  certain. 
When,  a  few  months  ago,  the  Shah  learned  that  English  troops  had 
landed  on  his  southern  frontier,  he  was  frightened,  raised  the  siege 
of  Herat  and  sent  a  message  to  the  English  ambassador,  who  was 
then  at  Tabreez  on  his  departure  out  of  the  country,  entreating  him 
to  remain  and  promising  to  accede  to  any  conditions  of  pacification 
which  the  English  government  should  dictate.  With  this  fair  pros- 
pect of  a  ready  settlement,  the  ambassador. started  for  Tehran.  But 
from  appearances,  it  was  soon  apprehended,  that  the  king  intends 
still  to  play  the  Persian  and  act  a  treacherous  part, — perhaps  return 
to  Herat.  The  English  troops  remain  on  the  southern  frontier,  and 
in  case  his  Persian  majesty  persists  in  opposing  the  wislies  of  their 
government,  there  will  probably  be  war.  Political  revolutions,  in 
these  Muhammedan  countries,  frightful  and  troublesome  as  they  are 
in  Ihemselves,  are  still  perhaps  hardly  to  be  regretted.  They  are 
doubtless  to  have  an  important  and  direct  agency  in  the  over- 
throw of  the  religion  of  the  Prophet  and  the  establishment  of  Christ's 
kingdom  upon  its  ruins.  Nor  can  we  reasonably  anticipate  perma- 
nent peace,  in  any  of  these  lands,  until  they  shall  yield  to  the  sway 
of  the  Prince  of  peace. 

In  the  prospect  of  I'the  English  ambassador's  leaving  Persia,  last 
summer,  I  addressed  to  him  the  following  letter. 

"  To  His  Excellency,  Sir  John  McNeill,  H.  B.  M.  Envoy  Extraor- 
dinary and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  to  the  court  of  Persia, 
Sir, — Permit  me  to  express  to  you  the  sincere  regret  which  we 
feel,  that  we  are  unable  to  do  ourselves  the  pleasure  of  seeing  your 


372  ACKNOWLEDGEMENT  OF  OBLIGATION. 


Excellency,  before  you  may  leave  this  country.  One  of  my  col- 
leagues, as  well  as  myself,  went  to  Tabreez,  soon  after  we  heard  of 
your  expected  departure,  in  the  hope  that  at  least  one  of  us  might 
meet  you  there  ;  but  circumstances  beyond  our  control  compelled 
us  to  return ;  and  we  now  find  it  hardly  practicable  to  leave  our 
families  and  repeat  the  journey. 

Permit  me,  therefore,  to  take  this  method  of  expressing  to  you,  in 
behalf  of  myself  and  our  mission,  our  very  deep  sense  of  obligation 
to  your  Excellency,  alike  for  personal  and  official  favors, — to  the 
gentlemen  of  your  suite  and  detachment,  with  the  most  of  whom  we 
have  the  pleasure  of  acquaintance,  for  their  many  kind  and  polite 
attentions, — and  to  the  very  powerful  and  revered  government, 
which  you  represent,  for  the  efficient  protection  which  it  has  afford- 
ed us  and  our  object,  during  our  residence  in  tliis  country.  We 
should  most  heartily  regret  your  intended  departure,  did  we  not  con- 
fidently hope  and  expect,  that,  as  a  consequence  of  this  and  attend- 
ant raeasufes,  British  influence  will  soon  be  reestablished  in  this 
country,  on  a  firm  and  advantageous  basis ;  and  while  we  would 
not  meddle  with  party  politics,  yet,  as  philanthropists  and  as  Chris- 
tians, we  do  rejoice,  whenever  we  behold  indications  of  the  exten- 
sion of  English  influence  in  Asia;  for  we  feel  confident  that  such 
indications  present  one  of  the  surest  of  human  pledges  of  the  ame- 
lioration of  both  the  temporal  and  eternal  prospects  of  men,  in  any 
countries  thus  affected. 

Were  we  to  reside  at  Tabreez,  we  believe  that,  it  having  been 
known  that  we  have  enjoyed  English  protection,  the  moral  influence 
of  the  English  name  might  be  sufficient  still  to  protect  us.  But  sit- 
uated as  we  are,  in  this  remote  town,  which  has  never  been  the 
residence  of  Europeans  for  any  considerable  period  and  is  fearfully 
infested  with  lawless  Lootee,  it  is  our  decided  opinion,  that  pru- 
dence requires  us  to  make  some  arrangement  for  additional  securi- 
ty for  ourselves  and  our  families,  on  the  departure  of  your  mission. 
And  we  beg  you  to  suggest  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Merrick,  who  hopes  to 
meet  you  at  Tabreez,  and  will  act  as  our  agent  in  the  case,  any 
measures  which  you  may  deem  proper  to  be  taken,  and  afford  him 
all  the  assistance  which  may  be  found  necessdry,  to  secure  the  ob- 
ject. Fervently  praying  that  abundant  blessings  may  rest  on  you 
personally,  and  that  complete  success  may  attend  your  Excellency's 
official  measures ;  and  with  sentiments  of  unfeigned  gratitude  and 
great  respect,!  beg  to  remain,  Sir, 

Your  very  obedient  servant, 
In  behalf  of  the  American  mission  to  the  Nestorians, 

(Signed)  J.  Pehkins.. 

Ordomiah,  Aug.  22,  1838." 

Jan.  9.    I  received  the  following  reply  to  the  above  letter : 


ADVICE  RUSSIAN  PROTECTION. 


373 


"  Tabreez,  Jan.  1,  1839. 
Dear  Sir, — I  had  the  pleasure  of  receiving,  some  time  ago,  your 
letter  to  me,  requesting  to  be  informed  what  course  I  considered  it 
most  advisable  for  the  American  missionaries  at  Orooiniah  to  pur- 
sue, in  case  the  British  mission  should  withdraw  from  the  Shah's 
dominions,  and  conveying  to  me  your  own  thanks  and  those  of  your 
companions,  for  the  protection  you  had  hitherto  received  from  the 
British  mission. 

I  have  delayed  answering  your  letter,  until  it  should  be  in  my 
power  to  decide  whether  or  not  her  Majesty's  legation  would  with- 
draw from  the  Persian  territories ;  and  now,  that  this  step  has  be- 
come necessary,  I  beg  leave  to  inform  you,  that  in  my  opinion,  it 
will  be  advantageous  to  you,  and  to  the  gentlemen  who  are  associa- 
ted with  you,  to  seek  the  protection  of  the  only  other  European  mis- 
sion at  the  Persian  court. 

It  affords  me  great  pleasure  to  assure  you,  that  the  unobtrusive 
conduct  of  the  American  missionaries  in  Persia,  and  the  practical 
good  sense  and  good  feeling  which  have  been  conspicuous  in  their 
proceedings,  has  made  it  a  very  agreeable  duty  to  me,  to  assist  in  af- 
fording them,  in  the  progress  of  theif  beneficial  labors  amongst  the 
Christians  of  Azerbijari,  the  protection  from  personal  annoyance  or 
injury,  which  they  have  had  occasion  to  request,  and  which  the 
respect  due  to  their  oWn  characters  had  already  disposed  the  Persian 
authorities  to  extend  to  them. 

1  have  the  honor  to  be,  Sir, 

Your  most  obedient  and  bumble  servant, 
(Signed)  John  McNeill." 

Feb.  2.  The  English  embassy  left  Persia,  immediately  after  the 
above  letter  was  written.  In  accordance  with  the  advice  of  the  am- 
bassador, I  have  just  been  to  Tabreez,  in  company  with  Dr.  Grant, 
to  obtain  Russian  passports.  The  winter  journey  was  not  particu- 
larly agreeable  in  itself  and  the  native  authorities  had  declared  their 
intention  to  take  good  care  of  us,  though  we  should  have  no  Euro- 
pean protection.  Still,  a  proper  regard  for  the  security  of  our  mis- 
sion, seemed  to  require  us  to  take  this  precaution  without  delay. 
The  Russian  consul-general,  received  us  very  kindly,  and  besides 
furnishing  us  with  the  desired  passports,  proposed  of  his  own  ac- 
cord, to  inform  the  Emeer-i-nizam — the  acting  governor  of  Azer- 
bijan,  that  we  have  Russian  protection,  and  request  him  to  write 
to  the  governor  of  Oroomiah,  communicating  the  same  fact  and  di- 
recting the  latter  to  take  care  of  us.  Contrary  to  our  previous  apn 
prehensions,  since  the  English  ambassador  has  left  Persia,  every 
thing  continues  quiet  here  as  before.  We  had  supposed  that  his 
departure  might  be  the  signal  of  general  disorder.  But  there  is  not 
the  least  indication  of  commotion,  which  certainly  shows  progress 
among  the  Persians  in  civilization.    And  in  my  late  visit  to  Ta- 


374  CIVILIZATION  'ENLIGHTENED  ARMENIANS. 


breez,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  other  and  strong  indications  of 
such  progress.  The  briskness  of  trade  and  the  amount  of  European 
articles  in  the  bazars  of  that  city  almost  surpass  conception. 
There  has  been  a  great  advance,  in  these  respects,  during  the  three 
or  four  years  since  I  resided  there.  Nor  are  these  the  only  marks 
of  advancement.  Among  other  things,  I  visited  two  lithographic 
presses — the  property  of  Persians  and  recently  put  in  operation  by 
Persians — which  are  vigorously  at  work,  printing  Persian  books. 
And  never  did  I  witness  more  promptness  and  agility  in  the  manage- 
ment of  the  press,  than  was  manifested  by  the  athletic,  intelligent 
natives  who  were  at  work  at  these  presses  ;  and  seldom  have  1  be- 
held a  scene,  which  to  my  mind,  partook  more  of  the  morally  sub- 
lime, than  that  scene,  patronized  and  sustained,  as  the  printing  es- 
tablishment is,  wholly  by  native  Persians.  Nor  is  advancement  in 
civilization  confined  to  this  part  of  the  country.  Among  the  inter- 
estmg  signs  of  the  times,  is  a  recent  order  of  the  king,  that  all  who 
approach  his  royal  person,  shall  be  dressed  in  European  costume. 

The  French  Jesuits,  who  visited  Oroomiah  last  autumn,  went  to 
Tabreez ;  and  they  were  so  surprised  and  impressed  with  the  exist- 
ing facilities  there  for  gaining  access  to  the  Muhammedans,  that 
they  lost  no  time  in  applying  to  Prince  Kahraman  Meerza  for  a  fir- 
man to  enable  them  to  open  a  school  for  young  Mussulmans.  The 
desired  firmaln  was  readily  granted,  and  one  of  them  has  hastened 
oflf  with  all  possible  speed  to  Constantinople  and  Paris  to  obtain 
funds  and  men  to  carry  their  plan  into  execution. 

Maiek  Kasem  Meerza  continues  as  friendly  as  ever  to  us  and  our 
operations.  We  visited  him  at  Tabreez,  and  he  suggested  to  us, 
that  it  would  be  well  to  visit  the  Emeer-i-nizam,  and  kindly  pro- 
posed to  make  the  necessary  arrangements  and  accompany  us  on 
such  a  visit.  In  this  proposal  he  evidently  had  in  mind  that,  as  the 
English  ambassador  had  left  tlie  country,  we  might  have  occasion 
to  ask  favors  of  the  Emeer,  artd  should  do  well  to  show  him  the  pre- 
vious attention  of  a  visit.  His  manifest  concern  for  our  safety  and 
welfare  demands  our  grateful  acknowledgement. 

Wbile  at  TabreeT;,  I  learned  some  encouraging  facts,  respecting 
a  cluster  of  Armenian  Christians,  situated  near  Shoosha,  the  seat 
of  the  late  German  mission  in  Georgia.  An  Armenian  priest,  from 
that  group,  recently  came  to  Tabreez,  and  stated  that  his  whole  vil- 
lage had  seceded  from  the  Armenian  church,  having  imbibed  evan- 
gelical views  and  feelings.  They  had  in  consequence  drawn  upon 
themselves  the  bitter  persecution  of  the  hierarchy,  and  the  storm  be- 
came so  violent,  (hat  the  priest  had  fled  into  Persia.  The  good 
seed  which  the  German  missionaries  scattered  in  Georgia  has  been 
silently  at  work.  It  would  be  very  premature  to  pronounce  their 
labor  thrown  away,  in  consequence  of  the  interruption  of  their  mis- 
sion. Not  a  holy  desire  which  they  have  cherished,  not  a  prayer 
they  have  offered,  not  an  effort  they  have  put  forth,  not -a  dollar 
they  expended  for  the  perishing  in  that  country,  will  be  lost.  The 


AfERSLAN  DERVISH. 


ROYA.L  EDICTS  DERVISHES  SEMINARY.  375 


seeds  of  truth  which  they  sowed  have  taken  root,  are  springing  up 
and  will  bring  forth  a  golden  harvest.  Under  the  ashes  of  that  de- 
molished mission  are  living  embers,  which  the  breath  of  Jehovah, 
without  the  voice  of  the  living  missionary,  is  fanning  into  a  flame, 
that  will  blaze  and  extend,  till  the  Armenian  churches  in  that  dark 
land,  shall  be  enlightened  and  reformed. 

Feb.  6.  Several  new  orders  have  just  reached  our  governor, 
from  the  king.  Some  of  them- are  the  following;  viz.  Every  land- 
holder must  set  out  a  thousand  young  trees;  no  beggars  may  be 
tolerated,  e.vcept  the  lame,  the  sick  and  the  blind;  every  man  who 
shall  appear  in  the  garb  of  a  Dv.rvisli  must  be  compelled  to  become 
a  soldier;  no  person  may  talk  about  the  king — of  his  doing  this  or 
that — but  each  must  occupy  himself  with  his  own  business.  The 
last  named  order  was  doubtless  prompted  by  the  king's  failure,  in 
his  expedition  against  Herat,  which  he  is  ashamed  to  have  made 
the  topic  of  general  conversation  among  his  subjects.  The  other 
edicts  are  highly  commendable.  There  being  no  forests  in  Persia, 
except  orchards,  and  the  trees  planted  upon  the  water-courses,  the 
increased  cultivation  of  these  will  tend  alike  to  improve  the  aspect 
of  the  country  and  augment  the  resources  and  comforts  of  the  peo- 
ple. The  propriety  of  the  other  orders  is  readily  obvious  to  one 
who  witnesses  the  hosts  of  besfgars  that  swarm  in  the  streets  of  these 
Eastern  countries,  and  especially  the  dervishes,  who  are  as  numerous, 
and  profligate  in  Persia  as  the  Friars  and  Capuchins  and  other  va- 
grant monks  in  Spain  and  Italy.  These  disgusting  vagabonds  wear 
long,  bushy  hair,  dangling  down  upon  their  shoulders, — carry  a 
fantastic  kuotty  club  in  the  hand — sometimes  a  hatchet  in  the  gir- 
dle— and  half  of  a  huge  cocoa-nut  shell,  furnished  with  a  cord  as  a 
handle,  upon  the  arm  in  which  to  receive  charity.  On  meeting 
them  in  the  road,  they  will  assail  you  with  a  torrent  of  compliments 
and  blessings,  mingled  with  importunity  for  a  present,  which,  how- 
ever, changes  into  a  storm  of  maledictions,  the. moment  you  pass 
them,  without  gratifying  their  wishes;  the  same  fountain  most  em- 
phatically and  plentifully  sending  forth  "sweet  water  and  bitter." 

Pcb.  b.  We  have  just  placed  eleven  more  of  the  most  pron)ising 
boys  of  our  seminary  on  a  permanent  foundation,  by  doubling  their 
stipend,  to  enable  them  to  prosecute  tlieir  studies  without  interrup- 
tion. We  give  them  fifty  cents  per  week,  during  their  actual  at- 
tendance at  school,  (not  including  vacations,)  which  is  sufficient  to 
board  and  clothe  them.  They  have  all  commenced  studying  Eng- 
lish, making  the  number  of  Nestorians  about  twenty,  who  are  learn- 
ing our  language.  We  hope  gradually  to  elevate  the  character  of 
our  seminary,  by  securing  more  permanent  attendance  on  the  part 
of  the  scholars,  and  greater  system  in  their  studies,  at  least,  when 
by  the  aid  of  our  press  we  shall  be  able  to  furnish  them  more  amply 
with  school-books. 

Feb.  9.  The  subject  of  .  the  lesson  for  our  Sabbath  school'  to- 
morrow, which  Mr.  Holladay  and  myself  expounded  to  the  teachers 


376 


CONCERN  READING  THE  EPISTLES. 


at  their  meeting  to-day,  is  the  coming  of  Christ,  as  presented  in  the 
twenty-fifth  chapter  of  Matthew.  Mar  Joseph  had  been  at  home, 
during  most  of  the  week,  to  attend  the  wedding  of  a  niece.  And 
the  scenes  at  Nestorian  weddings  so  strikingly  correspond  to  what 
Christ  there  declares  to  have  been  the  state  of  things  at  the  event 
of  the  flood,  and  as  also  to  be  prevalent  at  the  time  of  his  coming, 
that  this  bishop's  attention  was  particularly  arrested,  by  that  part  of 
the  subject.  All  present  were  solemn  and  thoughtful ;  but  he  was 
evidently  agitated  and  much  concerned.  At  the  close  of  our  meet- 
ing, he  said  to  me,  "  If  the  account  of  the  matter  given  here  by 
Christ  is  correct — and  of  course  it  is — our  people  who  do  little  but 
eat,  drink,  dance  and  neglect  prayer,  fasting  and  religion,  are  all 
going  to  destruction,  and  what  must  I  do  ?"  Priest  Dunka  checked 
the  bishop  for  asserting  that  all  are  going  to  perdition,  suggesting 
that  there  may  be  here  and  there  an  exception.  But  Mar  Joseph 
reiterated,  "  We  are  all  going  to  hcU;  and  what  is  to  be  done?" 
I  told  him  to  do  as  Lot  of  old  did ;  not  that  he  need  literally  flee 
from  his  country,  but  separate  himself  from  the  ungodly  practices 
of  its  inhabitants.  I  then  left  the  room ;  but  the  bishop  repeated 
the  same  inquiry  to  Mr.  Holladay,  "  What  shall  I  do,  in  the  midst 
of  this  general  prevalence  of  worldliness  and  ungodliness  1"  Mr. 
Holladay  pointed  him  to  the  Scripture,  "If  thou  be  wise,  thou  shalt 
be  wise  for  thyself,  but  if  thou  scornest,  thoa  alone  must  bear  it," 
which  he  read  with  serious  attention  and  soon  retired. 

Feb.  14.  Priest  Abraham  informed  me,  that  Mar  Elias  has  com- 
menced reading  portions  of  the  epistles  statedly  in  his  church,  trans- 
lating them  at  the  same  time  from  the  ancient  into  the  vernacular 
language.  The  priest  added  that  some  of  the  people  are  much 
pleased  with  this  innovation,  while  others — and  a  profligate  priest 
of  the  village  among  them — show  impatience  and  dissatisfaction 
with  the  practice,  and  complain,  that  Mar  Elias  is  constantly  an- 
noying them  with  the  doctrines  of  "Paul — Paul — Paul,"  of  whom 
they  seem  before  scarcely  to  have  heard.  I  inquired  of  priest 
Abraham  whether  the  good  bishop  would  not  be  frightened  from 
his  work,  by  this  opposition  of  one  of  his  priests  and  some  of  his 
people.  "  Oh  no ;"  replied  priest  A.,  "  Mar  Elias  is  waked  up  and 
deeply  engaged  in  the  undertaking."  No  better  conduct  could  rea- 
sonably be  expected  from  the  priest  who  opposes  the  bishop.  In 
the  first  place,  he  is  profligate  in  character,  and  in  the  next  place, 
he  is  so  ignorant  as  to  understand  but  very  little  of  what  he  chants 
from  his  Liturgy,  from  day  to  day,  in  his  church.  Such  being  the 
character  of  not  a  few  of  the  Nestorian  clergy,  I  often  marvel  that 
there  Ls  even  so  much  morality  as  actually  exists  among  the  mass 
of  the  people.  The  religion  of  the  Bible,  though  presented  in  a 
language  so  imperfectly  understood  and  by  a  priesthood  always  ig- 
norant and  often  profligate,  has  still,  under  all  these  hindrances,  ex- 
erted a  very  salutary  influence  on  their  character.  What  then  may 
not  be  hoped,  from  its  influence,  when  the  Bible.shaJl  be  given  to 


IMPORTANCE  OF  THE  PLAIN  HKALTH  RETREAT.  377 


them  in  their  living  tongue;  and  its  truths  be  proclaimed  by  a  well 
educated  and  pious  clergy  ! 

Our  field  becomes  increasingly  interesting,  as  those  who  are  un- 
der our  immediate  influence,  advance  in  intelligence  and  improve- 
ment. Nor  is  the  sphere  of  our  present  operations  so  coniracted 
as  may  be  supposed.  In  the  ardor  of  our  desire  to  occupy  the  al- 
most impenetrable  mountains — which  is  indeed  an  important  ob- 
ject and  should  be  accomplished  at  the  earliest  practicable  period — let 
us  not  overlook  the  Nestorians  of  the  plain.  In  so  doing  we  are  in 
danger  of  dropping  the  substance,  while  we  essay  to  grasp  the  sha- 
dow. To  the  nearly  forty  thousand  Nestorians  in  the  province  of 
Oroomiah,  we  have  unobstructed  access;  and  in  how  important  a 
relation  do  thei/  stand  to  the  mountaineers,  who  come  down  in  such 
numbers,  from  year  to  year,  and  must  feel  the  influence  of  any 
changes  among  the  people  of  the  plain,  to  say  nothing  of  the  indi- 
viduals from  the  mountains,  who  are  brought  under  our  immediate 
influence  and  instruction.  And  in  no  less  interesting  a  relation  do 
the  Nestorians  of  this  province  stand  to  the  Muhammedans  of  Persia, 
among  whom  they  dwell,  and  who  cannot  fail  to  observe  any  reforma- 
tion in  their  christian  subjects,  and  sooner  or  later  be  affected  by  it. 

Suffering  severely  as  we  did,  from  the  commencement  of  our 
residence  at  Oroomiah  from  its  unhealthy  climate,  we  early  felt  the 
need  of  a  hcalth-retrcat,  to  which  the  sick  of  our  number  might  re- 
pair for  occasional  relief  The  subject,  however,  was  embarrassed 
with  difficulties.  Any  mountain  village  to  which  we  might  go, 
even  within  the  Persian  territory,  would  be  constantly  liable  to  be 
sacked  by  the  savage  Koords  from  beyond.  And  retiring  from  the 
city  and  plain,  even  temporarily,  would  withdraw  our  strength  and 
influence,  more  or  less,  from  the  most  central  and  important  part 
of  our  field.  But  the  sudden  death  of  Mrs.  Grant,  from  fever,  in- 
duced by  our  climate,  led  us  deeply  to  feel,  that  due  regard  to  the 
preservation  of  our  lives  and  true  missionary  economy,  required  us 
to  provide  such  a  retreat,  the  serious  obstacles  in  the  way  notwith- 
standing. Gavalan,  the  village  of  Mar  Yohannan,  is,  as  I  have  be- 
fore stated,  about  forty  miles  from  the  city,  and  is  shut  out  from  the 
hostile  influences  of  the  main  part  of  the  plain,  by  an  arm  of  the 
Koordish  mountains  that  runs  down  almost  to  the  lake;  and  this 
was  the  place  which  we  selected,  as  being  equally  healthy  and  a 
more  secure  residence  than  any  mountain  village.  We  readily  ob- 
tained a  firman  from  the  Prince  of  northern  Persia,  authorizing  us 
to  build  at  that  village,  which  is  the  property  of  jgovernment,  and 
reside  there  as  much  of  the  time  as  we  should  find  it  desirable. 

March  24.  I  rode  to  Gavalan,  with  Mar  Yohannan,  to  make' 
arrangements  for  commencing  a  rude  building  for  our  summer  re- 
treat. Soon  after  the  mutual  salutations  were  exchanged  with  his 
family,  he  stated  to  thetn  the  sad  calamity  that  had  befallen  Mar 
Elias,  a  wall  of  whose  house  recently  fell,  burying  a  woman  and 


378 


INTERRUPTION  OPPRESSION. 


child  in  its  ruins  and  injuring  some  others,  Mar  Elias  himself  but 
just  escaping  with  his  life.  All  were  much  shocked  at  the  account, 
and  the  bishop  made  use  of  the  incident,  by  saying  to  theni,  "  You 
see  how  very  important  it  is,  that  we  be  always  ready  for  death." 
As  the  happy  family — happy  for  Persia — proceeded  in  conversation 
and  mutual  greetings,  while  I  sat  resting  at  a  little  distance,  the  old 
lady  said  to  her  son,  "  As  I  was  baking,  to-day,  one  of  the  cakes, 
while  in  the  oven,  threw  up  puffs,  just  like  two  horsemen,  and  I 
said  at  the  time,  we  shall  have  visitors ;  and  now  you  and  Mr.  P. 
have  come."  The  bishop  laughed  and  replied  to  his  mother  in  a 
tone  of  gentle  rebuke,  "  that  is  foolish  talk."  Like  peasants  in  all 
countries,  particularly  in  the  East,  the  Nestorians  have  their  signs 
and  proverbs ;  bat  those  who  come  most  under  our  influence  are 
laying  these  aside,  as  well  as  their  religious  superstitions. 

April  14.  Scarcely  had  we  laid  the  foundation  of  our  health-re- 
treat at  Gavalau,  when  the  selfish  Muhammedan  nobleman,  who 
farms  the  village,  apprehending  that  his  opportunities  of  oppressing 
the  villagers  might  in  some  way  be  curtailed  by  our  residing  there, 
sent  his  son,  at  the  head  of  eight  or  ten  armed  ruffians,  who  fell 
upon  our  workmen,  beat  them  severely  and  drove  them  from  their 
work  ;  and  then  seized  the  unoflfending  bishop.  Mar  Yohannan, 
tied  him  to  a  cart  and  brutally  bastinadoed  him,  for  the  alleged 
crime  of  having  invited  the  missionaries  to  the  village.  This  took 
place  in  my  presence,  and  in  the  face  of  my  earnest  remonstrances 
and  protestation  of  the  bishop's  innocence  of  even  the  sin  of  that 
charge.  The  tyrannical  noble  committed  this  outrage  on  the  bish- 
op, whom  he  knew  to  be  our  particular  friend,  to  deter  us  from  at- 
tempting to  reside  in  the  village.  And  to  make  the  affair  at  the 
same  time  a  lucrative  one,  he  also  extorted  from  him  a  large  fine, 
before  he  would  allow  him  to  be  liberated  from  the  cart. 

April  26.  Mar  Yohannan  came  from  his  village  to  the  city, 
though  with  much  apprehension,  lest  his  unfeeling  Muhammedan 
master  should  perhaps  meet  him  by  the  way  and  inflict  on  him 
farther  cruelty.  In  speaking  of  his  recent  sufferings,  the  bishop  re- 
marked, that  he  had  no  hope  of  deliverance,  for  himself  or  his  peo- 
ple, except  in  God ;  that 'they  have  hope  in  him;  that  while  they 
are  suffered  to  be  in  the  hands  of  the  Persian  Khan  whose  strength 
is  the  sword,  the  Lord  is  still  on  their  side. 

April  29.  The  bishop  informed  me,  that  tidings  had  reached 
him,  that  his  father  was  seized,  last  evening,  by  the  son  of  the  above 
named  Khan,  and  carried  to  a  distant  village.  The  object  is  to  ex- 
tort more  of  their  honest  earnings  from  the  bishop's  family.  By 
industry,  they  have  become  very  comfortable  in  their  circumstances, 
for  Nestorians,  and  this  is  their  crime.  Such  open  and  flagrant  op- 
pression must,  however,  have  some  pretext.  In  this  case,  a  profli- 
gate woman,  formerly  the  wife  of  one  of  the  bishop's  brothers,  who 
was  long  ago  repudiated,  has  recently  professed  herself  a  Mussul- 
man and  entered  the  harem  of  this  Persian  Khan.    The  seizure 


UNJUST  DEMAND  CONSOLATION. 


379 


of  the  bishop's  father  rests  upon  the  charge  brought  against  him 
by  this  profligate  female,  that,  many  years  since,  he  found  a  mule, 
]aden  with  money,  which  had  strayed  from  a  caravan,  and  took 
both  mule  and  money  to  himself  The  Khan  cannot  doubt  that 
this  is  a  groundless  fabrication  ;  and  yet,  he  gravely  charges  the  in- 
nocent man  with  having  taken  and  secreted  such  property  and  de- 
mands of  him  five  hundred  tomans,  ($1 ,250,)  to  settle  the  matter. 

April  30.  The  obvious  impossibility  of  realizing  the  full  amount 
of  the  above  demand,  and  perhaps  the  fear  that  the  Nestorians  of 
the  village,  many  of  whom  had  come  to  remonstrate  with  him,  might 
rise  in  desperation,  has  brought  the  Khan  down  to  about  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  dollars-  This  sum  the  bishop  is  trying  to  raise,  that 
he  may  rescue  his  imprisoned  father,  who  is  kept  under  constant 
apprehension  of  being  also  bastinadoed,  until  the  money  shall  be 
paid.  Thus  wantonly  are  the  Nestorians,  even  the  highest  of  iheir 
clergy,  sometimes  oppressed,  by  their  merciless  Mcihammedan  mas- 
ters. We  trust,  however,  that  even  in  Muhammedan  Persia,  the 
petty  noble  will  not  be  able  to  proceed  long,  in  this  manner,  with 
impunity. 

Priest  Dunka  remarked  to  me,  to-day,  that  he  felt  so  deep  a  sym- 
pathy with  Mar  Yohannan,  that  his  heart  sunk  within  him,  and  he 
spent  much  of  his  time  yesterday,  in  looking  out  consoling  passages 
of  Scripture  to  comfort  (he  bishop.  The  Bible  is  certainly  the  true 
source  of  consolation  to  which  the  Nestorians  should  resort,  when 
borne  down  under  oppression.  Much  of  it  has  a  meaning  and  an 
application,  in  a  country  like  Persia,  of  which  we  know  very  little 
in  favored  America.  Take,  for  instance,  the  37th  Psalm,  in  con- 
nexion with  the  above  recital.  What  a  fountain  of  light  and  relief 
does  it  open !  Priest  Dunka  continued  to  remark,  that  when  he 
contemplates  the  case  of  his  people,  he  feels  that  they  ?lx&  great  sin- 
ners, and  the  Lord  is  thus  using  the  rod  to  reclaim  them.  "  Again, 
however,"  he  added,  "I  sometimes  think  of  the  trials  of  Job;  and 
it  occurs  to  me,  that  God  may  have  designs  in  our  severe  sufferings 
beyond  mere  chastisement." 

Painful  as  it  is  to  us,  to  witness  the  civil  oppression  of  the  Nes- 
torians, it  is  still  more  affecting  to  contemplate  their  deep  moral  de- 
gradation. And  the  two  have  hitherto  seemed  only  to  aggravate 
each  other.  *'  The  whole  head  is  sick  and  the  whole  heart  faint ; 
from  the  sole  of  the  foot  even  unto  the  head,  there  is  no  soundness ; 
but  wounds  and  bruises  and  putrifying  sores."  We  can  only  point 
them  to  the  great  Physician,  alike  for  the  healing  of  their  moral 
maladies,  and  deliverance  from  their  physical  sufferings. 

May  15.  Priest  Dunka  requested  permission  to  go  to  his  home, 
back  about  sixty  miles  among  the  mountains.  His  family  had  sent  for 
him,  stating  that  the  Koords  had  robbed  them  of  all  their  .seed-wheat ; 
and  the  priest  must  come  home  and  procure  more,  or  hazard  the 
cheerless  prospect  of  the  whole  family,  consisting  of  about  twenty 
members,  in  its  vafioua  branches,  being  obliged  to  go  without  bread, 


380 


MAR  3ERGIS  CURES  IGNOBANCE. 


during  the  next  year.  The  priest  felt  constrained  to  leave  his  work 
and  comply  with  this  call  from  his  family,  of  whom  his  superior  in- 
telligence and  his  clerical  office  constitute  him  the  head,  though  he 
is  much  younger  than  several  other  members.  Severe  as  are  the 
oppressions  suffered  by  the  Nestorians  of  Persia,  they  are  still  light, 
compared  with  the  lawless  depredations  of  the  Koords,  which  their 
brethren  of  the  mountains  are  at  all  times  liable  thus  to  suffer. 

May  22.  We  rode  up  to  Mar  Sergis,  (St.  Sergius,)  a  Nestorian 
church,  on  the  declivity  of  a  mountain,  about  four  miles  distant  from 
the  city.  This  church  is  a  large,  arched  stone  building,  quite  an- 
cient and  much  venerated  by  both  Nestorians  and  Mohammedans, 
It  has  the  reputation  of  possessing  the  rare  power  of  restoring  luna- 
tics. And  to-day,  on  entering  it,  we  found  several  Mussulmans  of 
both  sexes  within,  who  had,  this  morning,  placed  a  delirious  relative 
in  a  dark  vault  of  the  church  and  were  waiting  in  expectation  of  see- 
ing him  come  forth  cured.  They  told  us  that  twenty-four  hours  is  the 
period  of  confinement  requisite  to  effect  the  cure.  What  a  soil  hag 
superstition,  in  Asiatic  minds  !  Here  were  followers  of  the  False  Pro- 
phet, who,  not  satisfied  with  the  endless  labyrinth  of  follies  furnished 
by  their  own  dark  system,  eagerly  resort  also  to  those  of  the  nominal 
Christians,  whom  they  at  the  same  time  despise  so  heartily,  that  they 
can  mention  them  only  by  the  reproachful  epithets,  infidels  and  dogs  ! 
These  Muhammedans  had  brought  their  sick  to  the  church  of  these 
same  despised  Christians  and  employed  a  Nesiorian  deacon  to  read 
prayers  over  him  ;  and  similar  cases,  the  deacon  informed  us,  are  of 
almost  every  day  occurrence.  And  J  have  often  seen  Muhammedan 
mothers,  of  high  rank  as  well  as  low,  resorting  to  the  Nestorian 
church  of  St.  Mary,  kissing  the  cross  and  the  New  Testament  upon 
the  altar  and  leaving  incense  or  some  other  offering  there,  in  the  hope 
of  thus  being  furnished  by  the  favor  of  the  patron  saint,  with  a  more 
full  supply  of  breast-milk  for  their  children.  I  hardly  need  say,  that 
Nestorian  mothers  set  the  example  in  this  same  practice. 

In  conversation  with  the  officiating  deacon  at  Mar  Sergis,  I  found 
that  he  could  cantilate  in  the  ancient  Syriac,  but  knew  nothing  of 
its  meaning.  He  stated  to  me  that  a  priest  of  his  village  has  gone 
on  a  journey  to  the  residence  of  Mar  Shimon,  in  the  hope  of  being 
made  a  bishop.  I  inquired  of  him  in  relation  to  the  literary  stand- 
ing of  that  priest,  and  was  told,  that  he  was  on  a  par  with  himself. 
I  asked  the  deacon  whether  it  is  not  necessary  that  a  bishop  should 
be  able  both  to  read  and  understand  their  books,  and  he  promptly 
answered,  "  No,"  meaning,  however,  as  I  found  by  more  particular 
inquiry,  that  custom  does  not  make  this  indispensable  in  a  bishop. 
Thus  ignorant,  it  is  not  marvellous,  that  while  they  profess  to  make 
the  Bible  their  rule  of  faith  and  practice,  both  ecclesiastics  and  peo- 
ple are  sadly  under  the  dominion  of  many  childish  superstitions. 
When  we  inquired  of  the  deacon,  whether  a  cure  is  always  certain, 
in  case  of  the  lunatics  who  resort  to  his  church,  he  unhesitatingly  an- 
swered, "  Yes."    And  to  the  question,  who  effecjs  the  cure,  he  re- 


CONTRAST  ■SELIM  PASHA  ^LOVE  OF  GLORY.  381 


plied,  Mar  Sergis,  the  patron  saint  of  the  church.  We  asked  him 
whether  God  did  not  work  the  cure,  in  all  cases,  if  any  be  healed  ? 
"  Of  course,"  with  a  shrug  of  the  shoulders,  he  replied,  "God  ena- 
bles Mar  Sergis  to  do  it." 

May  24.  Mar  Joseph  remarked,  that  thirty  years  ago,  when  he 
was  learning  to  read,  there  were  only  two  persons  in  this  whole  pro- 
vince who  could  teach  his  language;  and  tluir  acquisitions  were  far 
inferior  to  those  of  most  of  the  boys  now  in  our  schools.  Of  his  own 
accord,  he  proceeded  to  contrast  the  religious  privileges  of  that  period, 
among  his  people,  with  those  of  the  present,  and  said  that  the  times 
had  greatly  changed  for  the  better.  He  added,  that  an  aged  priest,  a 
mountaineer,  came  down  upon  the  plain,  several  years  ago  and  exci- 
ted some  desire  to  learn  to  read  and  commenced  teaching  a  few  in- 
dividuals ;  "  and  for  what  you  have  done  and  are  now  doing,"  he  re- 
marked in  conclusion,  "  may  God  give  you  the  kingdom  of  heaven." 

May  25.  Selim  Pasha,  the  Koordish  chief  of  Amadiah,  has  just 
arrived  here,  having  been  driven  from  his  dominions  by  his  superior, 
the  Pasha  of  Bagdad.  This  Koordish  chief  spent  some  time  at 
Oroomiah,  three  years  ago,  and  often  visited  us.  He  has  now  brought 
presents  to  the  governor  of  this  district,  to  the  prince  of  Azerbijan 
and  to  the  king,  in  the  hope  of  inducing  them  to  furnish  him  with 
troops,  to  enable  him  to  recover  his  province.  He  states  that  Me- 
sopotamia is  in  a  very  unsettled  condition,  and  collateral  reports 
confirm  the  statement.  Indeed,  the  whole  of  the  eastern  part  of 
Turkey  is  generally  much  less  settled  and  secure  than  almost  any 
part  of  Persia.  Ibrahim  Pasha  and  his  army,  and  the  Osmanlv 
troops  with  Ahmed  PashS,  at  their  head,  are  advancing  towards  each 
Other,  and  will,  doubtless,  soon  decide  the  question  of  superiority 
between  the  Egyptian  viceroy  and  the  Sultan. 

The  king  of  Persia  is  understood  to  have  been  meditating  an  ex- 
pedition against  Bagdad,  and  it  is  now  rumored  that  he  will  embrace 
the  opportunity  presented  by  the  unsettled  state  of  things  in  that 
region,  to  carry  his  aggressive  designs  into  execution.    His  Persian 
Majesty  possesses  a  strong  inclination  to  be  at  war.   He  has  a  great 
ambition  to  emulate  Napoleon,  of  whom  he  has  often  heard.  But 
like  many  other  imitators,  he  has  little  of  the  energy  and  character 
of  the  great  original.    The  French  emperor  is  a  favorite  hero,  in 
the  estimation  of  many  of  the  Persians.    The  Jesuits  and  strolling 
European  adventurers,  labor  to  make  him  such,  by  circulating  por- 
traits of  him  and  trumpeting  his  mighty  deeds,  hoping  to  increase 
their  own  consequence,  by  exalting  the  fame  of  a  renowned  coun- 
tryman whom  they  all  respectively  claim,  though  themselves  of  seve- 
ral different  nations.    The  king's  brother,  the  prince  of  Azerbijan, 
once  proposed  to  Mr.  Merrick,  to  translate  the  Life  of  Napoleon 
into  Persian  for  him  !    Would  the  preparation  of  a  small  Memoir 
of  Washington  be  wide  from  the  appropriate  work  of  a  missionary 
to  these  glory-loving  Persians? 

May  27.    We  visited  the  Koordish  Pasha.    He  is  quite  intelli- 


382  DRESS  POTATO  PORTRAIT  ROSE. 


gent  and  a  remarkably  fine-looking  man.  One  striking  peculiarity 
in  the  dress  of  the  Koords  is  the  broadness  of  the  sleeves  of  their 
shirts.  The  Pasha's  are  at  least  a  yard  and  a  half  in  breadth  at  the 
■wristband.  They  have  an  appearance  of  coolness  and  comfort  in 
summer.  We  inquired  whether  they  did  not  encumber  him  in  war  ; 
in  reply  to  which,  without  saying  a  word,  he  rolled  up  both  sleeves 
to  the  elbow,  in  a  twinkling,  winding  the  long  tapered  skirt  in  which 
they  terminate,  tightly  around  the  folds ;  and  then  brandished  his 
arms,  with  fists  doubled, — giving  us  a  very  vivid  impression  of  the 
expertness  and  power  of  the  wild  Koord,  in  connexion  with  the  grace- 
ful ease  of  the  polished  chief  The  material  of  the  Pasha's  shirt 
was  white  silk  gauze.  His  robe  was  of  beautiful  striped  silk.  His 
whole  dresa  gives  him  an  air  of  great  dignity,  which  is  fully  sustain- 
ed by  his  fine  features,  graceful  motions  and  easy  manners.  Men 
of  his  rank  among  the  Koords  are  often  intelligent  and  refined;  but 
extremely  treacherous  in  their  character. 

May  30.  In  the  morning,  we  received  a  visit  from  Selim  Pasha. 
He  was  accompanied  by  three  sons  of  the  governor,  the  youngest  a 
child  only  four  years  old.  They  remained  with  us  two  hours  and  a 
half  and  were  much  entertained  with  an  exhibition  of  our  philoso- 
phical apparatus.  The  Pasha  had  never  before  seen  or  heard  of 
anything  of  the  kind.  He  was  also  much  amused  with  the  strange 
vegetables  in  our  garden ;  and  a  potato  that  happened  to  be  unbu- 
ried,  fie  picked  up,  pared  it  with  his  knife  and  ate  it  raw.  The 
potato  was  introduced  many  years  ago  into  some  parts  of  Persia  by 
Sir  John  Malcolm  and  was  called  by  his  nzme,  Malcolm^ s  plums. 
Becoming  more  common,  it  was  at  length  denominated,  i/cr  elamasi, 
apples  of  the  earth,  which  name  it  still  retains.  We  have  introdu- 
ced this  vegetable  at  Oroomiah.  It  does  very  well,  though  the  soil 
is  too  rich  and  warm  to  produce  ii  in  its  highest  perfection.  Selim 
Pasha  mentioned  with  interest  the  Persian  New  Testament,  which 
was  given  him  by  one  of  our  mission  three  years  ago, — stating  that 
he  had  read  it  and  still  retained  it. 

A  few  days  afterward  we  received  another  visit  from  this  Koordish 
chief;  and  a  rude  Persian  painter  happening  to  be  near,  I  request- 
ed the  Pasha  to  allow  his  portrait  to  be  sketched,  that  I  might  pre- 
sent it  to  my  friends  in  America.  He  was  pleased  with  the  atten- 
tion and  directed  the  painter  to  proceed.  He  sat  patiently  three 
hours  for  the  purpose ;  and  sevferal  times,  the  painter  finding  it  dif- 
ficult to  sketch  the  spiral  folds  in  the  shawl  of  the  turban,  the  chief 
attempted  it  himself,  by  imitating,  with  a  piece  of  charcoal,  on  paper, 
the  motion  with  which  his  hand,  was  familiar,  in  winding  the  shawl 
around  the  turban ;  and  he  thus  succeeded  in  giving  an  outline 
very  well.  The  accompanying  portrait  was  thus  prepared  by  the 
joint  agency  of  the  Pasha,  myself  and  the  Persian  painter.  The 
rose  in  the  h.nnd,  is  one  which  the  Pasha  plucked  from  the  bushes 
in  our  yard,  as  he  passed  across  it  to  enter  our  house.  It  may  seem 
ill  to  comport  with  the  tcildness  of  the  Koordish  character ;  but 


SEUM  KOOUDISH. PASHA  (IF  AMADIAH. 


VISITORS  COSTUME  A  DARK  PICTUHK 


383 


roses  bloom  as  luxuriantly  in  some  of  the  glens  among  the  wild 
mountains  of  the  Koords  as  in  a  European  flower  garden  ;  and  their 
fondness  for  the  ornaments  of  nature  is  excessive.  Besides,  the 
reader  has  doubtless  inferred  from  the  foregoing  account,  that  this 
personage  possesses  much  softness  and  refinement  of  manners, 
blended  with  the  courage  and  lofty  daring  of  the  bold  Koordish 
warrior. 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  visited  by  prince  Malek  Mansoor  Meer- 
za,  and  four  Khans  who  are  all  brothers  of  the  governor.  Their 
visit  was  even  longer  than  that  of  the  Pasha.  Our  days  are  often 
thus  broken  up  by  the  entertainment  of  company.  We  need  not, 
however,  consider  our  time  spent  in  this  manner,  as  thrown  away. 
Such  visits  afford  us  an  excellent  opportunity  to.  improve  our  know- 
ledge of  the  native  language,  by  conversation  with  those  who  use  it 
well,  as  also  of  imparting  useful  information  to  our  guests;  and  they 
do  much  to  conciliate  the  Muhammedans  towards  us  and  our  mis- 
sionary work.  In  general,  the  usefulness  of  missionaries  is  much 
in  proportion  to  their  actual  intercourse  with  the  native  population  ; 
while  at  the  same  lime,  it  is  important  that  they  keep  their  minds 
from  rusting,  by  habits  of  close,  systematic  intellectual  labor,  to 
which  the  enervating  influence  of  an  Asiatic  climate  and  such  fre- 
quent interruptions — especially,  when  to  these  is  added,  precarious 
health — are  most  unfavorable.  Our  company,  this  afternoon,  were 
much  interested  in  examining  plates  on  natural  history,  and  the 
drawings  of  Chardin,  illustrative  of  scenes  in  Persia.  Their  style 
of  intercourse  with  us  is  entirely  familiar.  This  ready  access  to 
persons  of  the  highest  rank  which  the  missionary  enjoys  in  Persia, 
and  their  readiness  to  countenance  his  work,  are  circumstances  of 
great  encouragement.  Their  favor  commends  him  to  the  respect 
and  confidence  of  all  classes,  and  contributes  much  to  secure  him 
from  danger  and  annoyance. 

All  but  one  of  our  visitors^  this  afternoon,  were  dressed  in  Euro- 
pean costume, — or  at  least,  as  near  an  approximation  to  it  as  the 
native  tailors  can  make.  This  is  no  more  in  accordance  with  the 
late  order  of  the  king,  than  with  the  advancing  taste  and  civilization 
of  the  country.  It  is  peculiarly  gratifying  to  us,  in  this  remote  land, 
where  lately  we  saw  none  but  strange  figures,  to  behold  increasing 
numbers  adopting  our  own  costume. 

May  31.  Priest  Abraham,  in  conversation  to-day,  remarked,  as 
he  often  dues,  on  the  degraded  condition  of  his  people  and  their  for- 
getfulness  of  God;  and  said  that  the  fault  was  first  and  chiefly  in 
iheir  clergy,  who  are  unfaithful  in  their  office.  "  Many  of  our 
priests,"  said  he,  "are  well  represented  by  our  Lord's  words:  'Ye 
have  taken  away  the  key  of  knowledge.  Ye  enter  not  in  your- 
selves; and  them  that  were  entering  in,  ye  hindered.'  "  The  deep 
interest  which  this  priest  and  some  others  connected  with  our  mis- 
sion, manifest  in  the  improvement  of  the  clergy,  cheers  and  re- 
lieves us  in  the  contemplation  of  the  dark  picture  thus  but  too  justly 
drawn  by  him. 


384 


CLOSE  or  A  TERM — EMBLEM  CATECHISM. 


June  2.  At  our  native  service,  I  gave  an  exposition  of  the  third 
chapter  of  Colossians,  which  presents  many  points  of  deep  practi- 
cal importance.  The  usual  number  at  this  meeting,  is  about  seven- 
ty, consisting  mostly  of  the  members  of  our  seminary  and  female 
boarding-school.  The  fact  of  its  being  the  last  Sabbath  of  the  pres- 
ent term  gave  additional  interest,  and  at  the  close  of  the  usual  ser- 
vice, Mr.  Holladay  made  a  few  remarks,  adapted  to  the  occasion. 
The  members  of  the  seminary  have  never  given. us  such  cheering 
evidence  of  rapid  improvement  as  at  the  present  time.  And  their 
serious  attention  at  our  religious  services,  often  leads  us  to  hope 
that  the  Holy  Spirit  is  near  them.  They  have  already  acquired 
much  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures  and  have  listened  to  many  so- 
lemn appeals,  and  our  hope  and  prayer  is  that  the  seed  sown  may 
soon  spring  up  in  their  hearts.  After  meeting,  about  a  dozen  mem- 
bers of  the  seminary  applied  to  me  for  Bibles  and  Testaments  to 
take  with  them  to  their  homes,  that  they  may  study  them  and  read 
them  to  their  friends,  during  the  vacation. 

In  this  dark  Moslem  land,  it  is  cheering  to  behold  even  the  form 
of  godliness;  and  while  we  ardently  desire  to  witness  its  power,  we 
should  not  forget  to  be  grateful,  that  Christianity  has  even  a  name 
here.  Encompassed,  as  it  has  been  for  centuries,  by  bloody  ene- 
mies, its  existence  is  almost  a  miracle,  and  we  cannot  doubt  that 
the  Lord  has  important  designs,  in  relation  to  the  extension  of  his 
kingdom,  in  thus  preserving  it  here,  even  in  name.  The  Nestorians 
have  many  practices,  which  to  us  might  seem  almost  absurd;  but 
which  exert  a  strong  influence  in  attaching  them  to  the  christian 
religion.  For  instance,  whenever  they  write,  or  copy  a  Ms.,  at  the 
top  of  each  page  on  the  right  hand  corner,  they  make  three  dots,  a 
stroke  of  the  pen  underneath,  and  a  single  dot  under  that,  to  remind 
the  reader  of  the  doctrine  of  the  Trinity,  and  the  incarnation  of 
Christ, — the  three  upper  dots  meaning,  triune,  or  <Aree  persons,  but 
one  Crod — ^the  stroke,  representing  the  divine  throne,  and  the  dot 
beneath,  the  human  nature  of  our  Lord.  The  value  of  such  expe- 
dients can  be  fully  appreciated  only  where  this  cardinal  doc- 
trine of  our  religion  is  virulently  blasphemed,  as  is  the  case  in  Mu- 
hammedan  countries.  In  like  manner,  in  accordance  with  a  verse 
in  the  chapter  expounded  to-day,  "Whatsoever  ye  do,  in  word  or 
deed,  do  all  in  the  name  of  the  Lord  Jesus," — they  always  repeat, 
as  a  kind  of  charm,  "  in  thy  name,  O  Lord,"  whenever  they  engage 
in  any  act  or  undertaking  however  trivial.  The  thoughtlessness 
and  even  levity  with  which  this  is  often  done,  is  indeed  painful  to 
observe;  still,  the  practice,  on  the  whole,  contributes  much  to  in- 
spire in  them  a  general  regard  and  reverence  for  that  Name  which 
all  heaven  adores,  but  which,  in  these  benighted  lands,  is  so  habit- 
ually and  wantonly  blasphemed. 

June,  lO.  A  day  or  two  since,  in  a  bundle  of  papers  from  Ameri- 
ca, I  received  from  a  friend  two  numbers  of  "  a  Biblical  Catechism 
designed  for  Infant-schools,"  prepared  for  the  Massachusetts  Sab- 


SILENT  PROGRESS  DEATH  OF  A  CHILD- 


385 


bath  School  Society.  This  morning,  I  put  one  of  the  numbers  into 
the  hands  of  John,  who  has  become  master  of  our  language  suffi- 
ciently to  read,  with  considerable  ease,  almost  any  of  our  books  on 
common  subjects.  John  was  greatly  delighted  with  the  catechism, 
and  at  length  brought  it  into  my  study,  and  commenced  reading 
and  explaining  it  to  the  bishop  and  priest  who  were  with  me.  They 
too  seemed  equally  pleased  and  promptly  answered  the  questions, 
as  John  proposed  them  in  order,  through  nearly  the  whole  of  the 
first  number.  They  were  particularly  gratified  to  find  that  a  book, 
from  distant  America,  should  be  so  fully  adapted  to  their  own 
Scriptures,  and  the  bishop  remarked  of  it,  "  here  is  afresh  evidence 
that  your  religion  and  ours  are  essentially  one."  John  proposes  to 
translate  this  catechism,  for  the  use  of  our  Nestoriau  Sabbath 
Schools.  He  can  do  it  without  much  assistance,  and  it  may  thus 
be  very  useful, — perhaps  the  means  of  salvation  to  some  who  are 
ready  to  perish.  Our  friends  in  America,  by  sending  us  small 
works,  which  can  there  be  purchased  for  a  few  cents,  may  do  in- 
calculable good  with  a  trifling  pecuniary  sacrifice. 

June  13.  The  deacon  from  Mar  Sergis  called  on  me  for  a  Bible, 
which  I  promised  him  at  the  time  we  visited  his  village.  He  was 
highly  gratified  with  the  treasure,  implored  many  blessings  to  rest 
on  me  in  return,  promising  also  to  attend  our  seminary  and  learn  to 
read.  In  thus  scattering  copies  of  the  Scriptures  among  this  peo- 
ple, as  well  as  in  our  other  humble  efforts  for  their  benefit,  we  are 
encouraged  by  the  parables  and  the  promises  of  our  Lord.  The 
kingdom  of  heaven,  in  his  account  of  it,  resembles  the  grain  of 
mustard  seed,  which  at  length  becomes  a  tree ;  and  again,  the  small 
piece  of  leaven,  which  silently  diffuses  itself  through  the  whole  lump. 
The  word  of  the  Lord  will  not  return  unto  him  void. 


CHAPTER  XXIIL 

JOURNAL:  AUGUST-DECEMBER,  183!). 

''It  opens  a  new  chapter  in  a  parent's  life  to  bury  a  child,"  was 
the  remark  of  one  who  had  read  this  chapter  with  the  bleeding,  yet 
soothed  and  acquiescing,  sensibilities,  of  a  christian  parent.  We 
were  called,  July  23,  to  read  that  painful  chapter  a  second  time,  in 
the  death  of  Justin  Humphrey,  our  youngest  son,  after  a  severe  sick- 
ness of  two  weeks.  His  disease  appeared  at  first  to  be  only  a  bil- 
ious diarrhoea,  which,  however,  soon  passed  into  a  violent  fever. 
We  were  obliged  to  watch  its  progress,  while  it  preyed  upon  our 
helpless  little  one,  ignorant  alike  of  its  precise  nature  and  of  any 

49 


386 


VISIT  TO  TABREEZ  INFANt's  CALL. 


means  by  which  it  might  be  arrested  or  mitigated,  with  no  physician 
withia  five  hundred  miles  of  us, — a  position  like  that  in  which  we 
had  met  our  former  bereavement,  more  trying  to  parents  than  can 
be  known  till  experienced.  Our  babe  was  nearly  a  year  old,  and 
had  never  been  ill  an  hour  until  seized  by  the  disease  of  which  he 
died.  Worn  out  with  watching  and  solicitude,  during  his  sickness, 
Mrs.  P.  had  become  feeble,  and  this,  together  with  some  items  of 
business  for  our  mission,  led  us  to  make  an  excursion  to  Tabreez, 
in  the  hope  that  her  health  migi}t  be  benefitted  by  the  change  of  air 
and  scene. 

Aug.  3.  We  reached  Tabreez  at  7  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
Our  journey  was  comfortable  and  had  the  desired  effect  of  restoring 
Mrs.  P.  to  her  usual  health.  Soon  after  our  arrival,  Mr.  Merrick 
put  into  my  hand  the  following  lines,  which  he  had  penned  after 
hearing  of  the  death  of  our  little  boy.  An  infant  sister  had  died 
five  years  before,  and  a  brother  survived.  J.  H.  was  the  first  one 
removed  by  death,  of  the  five  infant  children  of  members  of  our 
mission,  who  were  born  within  the  period  of  two  months  and  bap- 
tized the  same  day,  as  noticed  in  a  preceding  chapter.  These 
facts  will  explain  some  allusions  in  the  lines  that  follow.  If  an 
apology  be  needed  for  their  insertion,  it  must  be  found  in  the  hearts 
of  bereaved  parents,  in  the  solitude  of  a  benighted  land. 

"  To  the  Rev.  J.  and  Mrs.  C.  B.  P.,  the  following  lines  are  af- 
fectionately inscribed,  by  their  sympathizing  missionary  brother, 

James  L.  Merrick. 

Tabreez,  July  28,  1839. 


The  Infant's  Call. 

Brother  cherub,  come  away  1 
'Tis  thy  sister  spirit  calls  ; — 
Join*  our  blissful,  bright  array, 
Where  the  sweetest  glory  falls. 

Around  the  Saviour's  blessed  throne, 

Who  for  us  infants  did  atone. 

Beauteous  angel,  let  me  stay. 

In  affection's  tender  arms ; 

What  should  tempt  me  now  to  stray  ? 

Strangers  fill  me  with  alarms. 
0,  dost  thou  know  a  parent's  love, 
And  all  the  filial  joys  I  prove 

Brother,  brother,  dost  thou  know. 

Who  it  is  that  calleth  thee.' 

Thy  own  sister  !  spared  all  woe, 

By  going  home  in  infancy  i 
Thy  parents  are  my  parents  too. 
And  loves  were  ours  as  now  with  you. 


THE  infant's  call. 


387 


Lovely  spirit,  can  it  be, 
Thou  so  beautiful  and  bright, 
Art  akin  the  least  to  nie, 
Filled  with  pleasure  and  affright? 
Perfection  seeming  half-divme, 
Beams  awful  thro'  those  smilea  of  thine> 

Darling  brother,  do  not  fear. 
Gentler  than  a  mother's  care. 
Free  from  every  sigh  and  tear, 
Is  tlie  kindness  you  shall  share  } 
And  all  that  in  nu,  now  you  see, 
Soon.,  soon,  dear  brother,  thou  shalt  be. 

Angel,  what  will  brother  say. 

When  he  finds  that  1  am  gone  ! 

Who  will  cheer  him  day  by  day  ; 

Meet  him  smiling  as  the  morn  ? 
Ah,  why  should  he  be  left  alone, 
And  I  removed  to  worlds  unknown ! 

Lovely  brother,  do  not  call 
Me  an  angel  with  awed  tone; 
I'm  thy  sister,  loving  all, 
Thy  fond  heart  proclaims  its  own. 
You  need  not  love  our  dear  ones  less^ 
For  sharing  heavenly  happiness. 

Lovely  sister,  is  it  true 

In  our  circle  then  remain  ; 

We  will  share  our  joys  with  you ; 

You  shall  lead  our  blooming  train. 
How  happy  then  we  all  shall  be, 
Sweet  seraph  sister,  here  with  thee. 

Well  I  know  the  silken  ties, 
Twining  round  your  little  bajid; 
And  the  tide  of  sympathies. 
Flowing  full  on  every  hand. 

But,  know,  the  golden  chains  above. 

Are  infinite,  eternal  love  ! 

Dost  thou  know  how  near  our  birth  ? 
Five  baptized  one  blessed  hour  1 
Let  us  bloom  awhile  on  earth, 
Twining  in  aifection's  bower. 
O  why  should  such  a  beauteous  wreath, 
So  soon  be  marred  by  ruthless  death 

Dearest  brother,  I  was  there. 
With  an  infant  angel  band. 
Hymning  in  the  hallowed  air, 
Him  who  baptism  did  command. 
Come  !  we'll  oft  return  and  see, 
The  dear  ones  now  detaining  thee. 

Dearest  sister,  much  inclined, 
Still  I  cling  to  those  below, 
Where  my  heart  has  fondly  twined  ; 
Other  worlds  1  little  know. 


388 


A  MEERZA— PRINCE  INCKKASliD  POWER. 


You  must  be  very  happy  there ; 
Ere  long  may  we  your  glory  share. 

Brother,  lift  thine  eyes  above  ! 

Seest  thou  Him  in  smiles  divine? 

Image  of  eternui  love  ; 

O  how  sweet  his  glories  shine  ! 
Beliold,  he  comes,  what  raptures  swell. 
At  thy  approach,  Immanuel  1 

Sister  bear  me  on  thy  wing ; 

Let  us  meet  Him  in  the  skies  ! 

Look  !  I'm  like  thee  !  how  they  sing  j 

Louder,  sweeter,  as  they  rise  ! 
Hail !  O  my  Saviour  and  my  Lord  .' 
By  infant  hosts  untold  adored." 

The  reader  hardlj  need  be  told,  that  this  beantiful  wreath  for  the 
tomb  of  our  babe,  was  very  soothing  to  our  wounded  hearts,  at  that 
time,  and  hardly  less  so  in  the  re-perusa],  when  our  only  surviving 
child  and  the  remaining  four  of  the  band  Jive,  were  suddenly 
taken  from  us,  a  few  months  afterward. 

Aug-.  5.  Wishing  to  improve  my  time  to  advantage  while  at  Ta- 
breez,  I  engaged  a  Meerza  to  give  me  lessons  in  Persian.  He  is 
the  same  who  taught  me  the  Turkish  language,  soon  after  our  first 
arrival  in  Persia.  He  was  for  two  years  a  member  of  Mr.  Haas's 
school,  and  has  thus  become  quite  intelligent,  is  much  attached  to 
missionaries,  and,  professedly,  to  their  object.  He  once  made  the 
declaration  to  one  of  the  German  brethren,  "I  believe  in  Jesus;" 
and  he  has  often  made  similar  remarks  to  me.  Were  he  not  re- 
strained by  the  terror  of  Mtihammedan  intolerance,  I  little  doubt  that 
he  would  gladly  make  an  open  profession  of  Christianity.  Though 
convinced  of  its  truth,  he  has,  however,  probably,  but  very  inade- 
quate views  of  its  spiritual  requisitions. 

Aug.  23.  My  Meerza  stated  to  me,  that  last  night,  to  use  his  own 
words,  he  "preached  to  a  large  number  of  Mussulmans,  from  the 
fifth  chapter  of  Matthew;"  and  when  at  the  close,  he  demanded, 
what  word  of  that  chapter  is  not  good,  "all  exclaimed,  that  it  was 
excellent."  Who  can  tell  what  good  may  result  from  the  impres- 
sions which  he  and  many  other  young  Mussulmans  received  in  that 
missionary  school  1 

Aug.  24.  In  company  with  Mr.  Merrick,  I  waited  on  Kahraman 
Meerza,  the  prince-governor  of  Azerbijan.  He  has  just  returned 
from  Tehran.  The  king  rewarded  his  late  visit  to  the  capital,  with 
considerable  increase  of  power,  both  in  the  extent  of  his  territory 
and  of  his  prerogatives.  His  title  now  is,  Ndib  Sultan — lord  lieu- 
tenant— the  same  which  his  father.  Abbas  Meerza,  had,  while  he 
was  so  long  heir-apparent  to  the  throne.  On  the  prince's  arrival, 
to  make  his  courtiers  and  officers  sensible  of  his  augmented  author- 
ity, he  ordered  a  Persian  noble  to  be  seized  and  bastinadoed,  and 
fined  him  two  thousand  dollars,  without  alleging  any  particular 


EXCITEMENT  PACEET  ROBBED. 


389 


reason.  We  might  deeply  regret  this  act  of  arbitrary  despotism, 
were  it  not,  tiiat  there  are  very  few  Persian  nobles  in  the  empire 
who  do  not  richly  deserve  such  treatment,  for  the  wicked  extortion 
and  oppression,  which  they  exercise  on  the  poor  ; — and  His  Royal 
Highness,  doubtless,  had  some  desert  of  this  kind  in  mind,  in  the 
infliction  of  this  punishment. 

The  prince  inquired  very  kindly  after  our  welfare  and  told  us,  as 
we  left  him,  that  if  we  should  need  his  aid  at  any  time,  we  must 
not  hesitate  to  let  him  know  it.  We  enjoy  much  quiet  under  his 
government,  in  the  prosecution  of  our  labors,  and  are  under  great 
obligation  to  him,  and  yet  more  to  Him  who  has  the  hearts  of  kings 
and  princes  in  his  hands. 

The  Emeer-i-nizam,  chief  of  the  army,  (who  is  the  acting  gover- 
nor of  Azerbijan,)  has  also  just  returned  from  a  summer  excursion  ; 
and  his  arrival  quelled  at  once  the  refractory  movements  of  the  mob, 
that  had  thrown  Tabreez  into  an  uproar,  and  all  the  Christians, 
both  natives  and  foreigners,  into  imminent  peril.  This  excitement, 
as  is  often  the  case  in  Persia,  arose  from  the  most  trifling  cause, — a 
quarrel  in  the  bazar  about  a  bridle,  between  a  blacksmith  and  an 
Armenian  muleteer,  who  was  a  Russian  subject  and  thus  emboldened 
to  use  his  tongue.  Opprobrious  epithets  were  exchanged,  their  re- 
spective religions  were  mutually  reviled ;  and  the  flame  thus  kindled 
flashed  over  the  city  like  lightning.  Death  was  threatened  against 
all  the  infidels,  (Christians,)  stones  were  hurled  at  them  and  their 
houses  by  infuriated  crowds  headed  by  the  Lootee,  and  the  permis- 
sion of  the  High  Priest  only  seemed  to  be  needed  to  carry  the  bloody 
tragedy  into  fatal  execution.  The  excitement  continued  more  or 
less  for  several  days,  until  the  Emeer-i-nizam,  approaching  the  city 
with  several  regiments  of  troops,  frightened  the  leaders,  and  quiet 
was  again  restored. 

Sept.  2.  Yesterday,  the  English  monthly  courier  came  in  from 
Erzroom,  but  brought  us  no  letters,  as  he  had  been  robbed  of  his 
packet  on  the  road.  This  is  a  sad  disappointment  to  us  and  others ; 
but  it  cannot  be  remedied.  The  lawless  Koords  will  be  very  un- 
likely to  restore  the  letters,  though  useless  to  them.  In  the  packet 
were  twenty-five  dollars,  forwarded  to  us  by  our  friend  Dr.  Riach, 
from  Erzroom,  (where  the  British  embassy  to  Persia  are  now 
stopping,)  most  of  it  contributed  by  himself,  as  another  donation 
to  the  Americat)  Tract  Society, — the  only  money  which  the  ma- 
rauders realized  in  their  robbery.  Dr.  Riach  intends  to  repeat  his 
contribution,  that  the  Tract  Society  may  not  suffer,  so  far  as  he  is 
concerned.  This  is  the  first  instance  in  which  an  English  courier, 
on  that  wild  route,  has  been  robbed,  since  I  came  to  Persia ;  and 
not  one  of  our  letters,  to  my  knowledge,  has  ever  before  been  lost, 
either  on  the  ocean  or  on  the  land.  We  are  deeply  indebted  to  the 
English  government,  not  only  for  the  regular  and  safe  transmission 
of  our  letters  to  and  from  Constantinople,  but  also  for  the  terms  on 
which  they  are  transmitted.    When  the  German  missionaries  re- 


390 


A  SEYED 


>  MEDICAL  PROFESSION. 


sided  at  Tabreez,  they  were  accustomed  to  pay  the  Russian  post 
to  St.  Petersburg  a  sum  not  varying  much  from  two  hundred  and 
fifty  dollars  annually;  and  this  was  only  their  due  proportion  to 
meet  the  actual  expenses,  their  letters  being  charged  by  weight. 
But  all  the  letters  and  other  communications  of  our  mission  pass 
between  Constantinople,  and  Persia,  by  the  English  courier,  without 
the  charge  of  a  farthing. 

Sept.  4.  I  employed  a  Persian  Seyed,  to  engrave  a  small  marble 
slab  to  be  placed  over  the  grave  of  our  little  boy.  More  than  four 
years  ago,  I  employed  the  same  person  to  prepare  a  similar  slab  for 
the  grave  of  our  first  child,  who  died  in  Tabreez.  He  requested 
of  me  at  that  time  a  Persian  New  Testament,  which  he  informs  me 
he  read,  and  then  lent  it  to  a  friend  who  resides  in  a  distant  town. 
By  questioning  him  a  little,  I  found  that  he  had  read  the  New  Tes- 
tament and  retains  in  his  memory  important  portions  of  it.  He 
begged  another  copy  which  T  presented  him ;  also  a  copy  of  the 
Psalms. 

This  Seyed  is  a  Persian  physician.  Observing,  to-day,  that  Wil- 
liam, our  surviving  little  boy,  appeared  ill,  he  offered  to  prescribe 
for  him  and  would  warrant  a  cure.  The  proposed  prescription 
consisted  of  a  passage,  extracted  from  the  Koran,  which  the  patient 
must  eat.  This  incident  explains  a  circumstance,  that  was  a  lu- 
dicrous enigma  to  us,  when  we  first  opened  our  medical  dispensary 
at  Oroomiah.  The  sick,  when  receiving  their  doses,  often  inquired 
whether  they  should  swallow  the  paper  enclosing  the  medicine,  as 
well  as  the  medicine  itself, — and  some  actually  swallowed  the  en- 
velope. They  had  been  accustomed  to  the  above-named  Persian 
prescription.  And  strange  to  tell,  it  does  actually  effect  cures. 
The  mezmerizcr  may  perhaps  best  divine  the  reason ;  though  it  is 
well  known  to  all,  that  the  nervous  system  has  much  to  do  with  di- 
vers diseases. 

The  medical  profession,  in  Persia,  is  a  most  flagrant  system  of 
quackery.  Naturally  superstitious  and  supremely  devoted  to  the 
body,  the  people  have  great  reverence  for  physicians;  and  much  as 
they  suffer  from  empiricism,  they  are  never  tired  of  seeking  relief 
from  impostors.  This  profession  is  usually  united  with  the  cleri- 
cal, in  some  of  the  inferior  MooUahs.  And  unhappily,  native  Per- 
sians are  not  the  only  empiricists  in  the  country.  Almost  every 
vagrant  European,  who  strolls  into  Persia  with  no  means  of  obtain- 
ing a  living,  becomes  ^ physician,  and  is  sure  to  find  good  business 
in  that  calling,  though  better  in  the  amount  of  his  practice  than  in 
its  hicrativeness ;  for  a  Persian  will  never  pay  a  farthing  to  any 
body  so  long  as  he  can  avoid  it. 

Sept.  9.  We  started  for  Oroomiah,  having  much  occasion  to  be 
grateful  for  mercies  experienced  during  our  visit  at  Tabreez, — par- 
ticularly in  the  restoration  to  health  from  a  very  distressing  sickness 
of  one  of  the  infant  twin-daughters  left  by  Mrs.  Grant,  whom  Mrs. 
P.  had  taken  to  nurse,  after  the  death  of  our  babe.  At  Yavshanlee — 


A   VK«.StAH  SKITKli.DK    MNV.AI.  I )  K  S  < :  L  N  1  )A  N  I'  MUHAUUET). 


SUMMER  HAMLET  PERIODICALS. 


391 


a  village  about  midway — we  met  our  good  friend,  the  governor  of 
Oroomiah,  on  his  way  to  Tabreez.  I  called  on  his  Excellency  at 
his  tent.  Instead  of  travelling  the  direct  road,  he  had  come  by  a 
circuitous  route  and  stopped  a  few  days  at  his  favorite  summer  vil- 
lage, situated  in  a  small  glen,  on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  in  the  bold 
projecting  ridge  of  mountains  which  separates  Salmas  from  Oroo- 
miah, and  he  urged  me  so  strongly  to  go  by  way  of  that  village  and 
spend  a  few  days  there, — at  the  same  time  directing  the  ket-khodeh, 
who  was  then  in  his  retinue,  to  conduct  us  thither  and  entertain  us 
at  his  house, — that  I  deemed  it  hardly  civil  to  decline  the  attention. 

Sept.  13.  While  we  should  have  much  preferred  the  nearest 
road,  we  still  regarded  it  in  the  light  of  duty  to  show  that  we  duly 
appreciated  the  kindness  of  the  governor,  and  resolved  on  encoun- 
tering an  addition  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  to  the  length  of  our  jour- 
ney and  a  much  rougher  road,  for  the  sake  of  complying  with  his 
invitation.  As,  however,  we  skirted  the  beautiful  lake,  mile  after 
mile,  on  the  very  brink  of  the  promontory,  by  a  most  romantic 
route,  which  we  had  never  before  travelled,  we  no  longer  regretted 
the  arrangement.  We  reached  the  village  about  8  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  were  conducted  to  the  dwelling  of  our  host,  and  in  half 
an  hour,  an  excellent  breakfast  was  spread  before  us.  Instead  of 
lingering  several  days  in  this  rural  paradise^  as  his  Excellency  had 
invited  us  to  do,  we  felt  constrained  to  hasten  on  our  way,  in  the 
hope  of  reaching  home  this  week.  We  took  our  leave  of  the  vil- 
lagers about  noon  ;  and  by  continuing  the  same  romantic  route,  we 
reached  Gavalan,  after  a  ride  of  four  hours. 

Sept.  14.  We  started  at  midnight  and  reached  home  about  9 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  Our  last  stage  was  considerably  longer 
than  the  preceding  ones,  which  required  us  to  start  at  that  early 
hour.  We  commonly  set  off  at  3  o'clock,  A.  M.  and  reached  our 
menzU,  about  nine,  thus  enjoying  refreshing  sleep  during  the  night 
and  avoiding  the  penetrating  heat  of  the  sun  on  our  ride.  Thus, 
too,  we  had  the  privilege  of  spending  a  long  and  quiet  day  under  our 
little  tent,  which  we  were  usually  able  to  pitch  near  a  cluster  of 
trees,  and  beguiled  the  hours  by  perusing  the  periodicals  from 
America  which  reached  us  just  before  we  left  Tabreez.  As  cold 
water  to  a  thirsty  soul,  so  is  good  news  from  a  far  country.  ^  How 
did  our  hearts  rejoice,  as  we  read  and  conversed  of  the  glorious 
things  which  the  Lord  is  doing  for  Zion  in  our  loved  native  land, 
at  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  in  other  parts  of  the  world  !  But  we 
were  also  not  a  little  saddened.  How  appalling  is  the  spirit  of  war,  so 
easily  excited  through  the  length  and  breadth  of  christian  America  ! 
We  trust  that  it  will  prove  but  the  unavailing  clamor  of  restless 
demagogues.  And  hardly  less  belligerent  are  some  portions  of  the 
church  in  America.  How  important  that  we  pray  and  labor  for 
the  -peace  of  Jerusalem. 

Sept.  25.  Priest  Dunka  arrived  from  the  mountains  where  he 
has  been  spending  his  summer  vacation.    He  informed  me,  that  he 


392 


DESIRE  TO  HEAR  SACRIFICES  A  TRACT. 


has  employed  much  of  his  time,  during  this  interval,  in  preaching 
the  gospel  in  the  villages  in  the  vicinity  of  his  home.  The  people 
of  that  region,  he  says,  have  very  little  instruction,  and  they  crowd- 
ed around  him  to  hear,  and  were  as  eager  in  listening,  to  use  his 
own  words,  "  as  people  dying  of  thirst  are  eager  for  cold  water." 
Priest  Dunka  has  a  very  good  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures,  and 
shows  a  commendable  zeal  in  laboring  to  enlighten  his  people. 
He  states  that  two  priests  of  his  acquaintance,  who  do  not  under- 
stand their  ancient  language,  had  resolved  to  come  with  him  and 
attend  our  seminary ;  but  their  Xoordish  chief  demanded  of  them 
a  heavier  present,  for  the  privilege,  than  they  could  pay,  and  they 
were  thus  prevented. 

Sept.  26.  This  evening,  John  commenced  reading  the  Memoir 
of  Obookiah,  to  a  circle  of  Nestorians,  who  are  members  of  the 
seminary;  and  the  parts  which  they  did  not  understand  in  English, 
he  translated  into  the  native  language.  All  present  were  exceed- 
ingly interested  with  the  narrative. 

Sept.  27.  Back  about  thirty  miles  among  the  mountains  is  a 
celebrated  Nestorian  church,  bearing  the  name  and  consecrated  to 
the  memory  of  a  favorite  saint.  On  that  saint's  day,  the  people 
from  all  quarters  flock  together  to  the  said  church.  At  the  present 
time,  the  Hakkary  Koords  are  pasturing  their  flocks  in  the  same 
region,  and  on  the  late  festival,  most  of  the  Nestorians  of  this  vi- 
cmity  were  thus  deterred  from  going  to  the  church.  A  few,  how- 
ever, had  the  temerity  to  make  the  attempt,  carrying  with  them 
presents  to  the  Koordish  chiefs,  which  they  hoped  would  prove  suc- 
cessful passports.  But  the  Koords  seized  both  presents  and  Nes- 
torians, and  now  demand  a  heavy  ransom  for  their  release.  The 
Nestorians  resort  to  that  church  to  offer  sacrifices  ;  i.  e.  they  carry 
gifts,  in  memory  of  the  saint  whose  name  it  bears,  and  present  them 
to  the  priest  or  the  poor  people  of  the  village.  They  do  the  same, 
on  other  saints'  days,  at  other  churches,  bearing  their  respective 
names.  Often,  also,  individuals  make  special  offerings,  to  avert 
evils,  or  thankfully  to  recognize  mercies.  In  such  cases,  they 
usually  slay  an  animal,  large  or  small,  according  to  their  ability,  a 
portion  of  which  they  give  to  their  pastor,  and  distribute  the  rest 
among  their  poor  neighbors.  The  animal  is  not  necessarily  slain 
at  a  cnurch,  nor  by  a  priest;  nor  is  there  so  much  that  is  religious 
in  the  practice,  as  the  term  sacrifice,  might  seem  to  imply;  though 
in  English,  we  use  that  term  in  the  same  way,  in  a  figurative  and 
very  general  manner. 

Sept.  30.  I  employed  our  translator^,  to-day,  in  the  preparation 
of  a  small  tract  on  Romanism,  which  seems  to  be  called  for,  by  the 
revival  of  Papal  efforts  in  Persia,  that  have  a  direct  reference  to  the 
conversion  of  the  Nestorians.  It  is  made  up  of  a  few  simple  scrip- 
tural reasons  for  not  embracing  Papacy,  taken  principally  from  the 
tract  on  the  same  subject,  published  by  the  American  Tract  Socie- 
ty.   The  priests  manifest  a  very  peculiar  interest  in  the  subject 


VISIT  TO  AKDISHAI  SALT. 


393 


and  preparation  of  this  document.  As  the  corrupt  doctrines  and 
practices  of  the  Romish  church,  many  of  which  the  Nestorians  as 
heartily  reprobate  as  Prostestants  can,  were  drawn  out,  and  pas- 
sages of  Scripture  in  refutatfon  of  them  were  placed  opposite,  they 
were  surprised  and  delighted  with  the  fulness  and  explicitiiess  of 
the  Bible  against  such  corruptions.  "  These  proof-texts,"  said 
priest  Dunka,  "  come  point-blank  against  the  Catholics  like  shoot- 
ing at  a  mark."  Said  Abraham,  "  How  pleased  priest  Yohannan, 
(the  principal  of  our  seminary,)  will  be,  when  he  reads  this  little 
book."  "  Such  labors,"  continued  priest  Dunka,  "  are  works  of 
charity  ;  so  far  as  you  thus  aid  us,  Sir,  to  wield  the  sword  of  the  spir- 
it in  defence  of  the  truth,  the  Lord  will  reward  yoii."  And  again; 
"  Whenever  my  people,  back  in  the  mountains,  shall  inquire  what 
I  am  adding  to  my  knowledge  by  living  with  the  American  mission- 
aries, this  little  book  will  furnish  an  answer." 

Oct.  1.  I  rode  to  Ardishai  to  visit  Mar  Gabriel.  Hithert6  we 
have  been  less  successftil  m  reaching  this  bishop  with  our  influence 
than  either  of  the  others  in  this  province,  on  account  of  his  juvenile 
fickleness  and  unreasonableness.  My  interview  with  him,  to-day, 
was  very  satisfactory.  We  made  arrangements  for  the  immediate 
commencement  of  a  school  in  his  village,  in  case  our  mission, 
whose  representative  I  was,  shafl  agree  to  the  terms  T  proposed. 
When  the  Catholic  emissaries  were  here  a  year  ago,  they  visited 
Mar  Gabriel,  and  endeavoTed  to  make  him  their  prize ;  but  he  hap- 
pily did  tiot  yield,  and  has  even  surprised  them  and  us  iDy  some 
bold  strokes  in  opposition  to  the  Papists.  There  has  long  been  a 
nucrlens  of  Papacy  in  his  village,  and  after  the  visit  of  the  Jesuit 
above-named,  all  the  Catholics  who  reside  there  became  very  zeal- 
ous in  their  efforts  to  make  proselytes  among  Mar  Gabriel's  people, 
which  so  much  annoyed  him,  that  he  entered  the  church  which  they 
had  taken  from  the  Nestorians,  and  stripped  it  of  every  crucifix, 
image,  picture  and  charm;  and  to-day,  he  brought  them  all  before 
me,  carelessly  rolled  up  in  a  great  bundle,  as  a  trophy  of  his  zeal 
for  the  Lord,  and  submitted  the  question,  whether,  in  the  circum- 
stances of  the  case,  it  were  not  a  meritorious  proceeding. 

I  rode  down  to  the  lake,  in  company  with  Mar  Gabriel,  to  ex- 
amine the  salt  on  the  shore.  The  quantity  deposited  there  is  im- 
mense beyond  conception.  The  water  rises,  every  spring,  from 
three  to  fire  or  six  feet,  during  the  annual  freshets  from  rains  and 
the  nrelting  of  snow  on  the  surrounding  moantains ;  and  as  these 
cease,  the  lake  gradually  retires  to  its  summer  level.  In  most  placeSj 
the  land  hear  it  is  flat,  and  pnly  a  few  feet  higher  than  the  water^ 
and  is  therefore  extensively  overflown  in  lhe  spring.  As  the  waters 
gradnnlly  subside,  k  very  thin  coat  of  salt  is  left  on  the  land  thus 
overflown.  But  to  prrocore  s:alt,  clean  and  in  large  quantities,  the 
following  course  is  adopted.  Small  entrenchments,  eight  or  ten 
inches  high,  eYrclosirrg  a  few  acres  each,  are  thrown  up  in  autumn 
near  the  lake.    These  dyses  detain  a  sufficient  depth  of  water,  when 

50 


394 


COLLECTING  SALT  MINERAL  SPRINGS. 


the  body  of  the  lake  retires,  to  deposite  a  layer  of  fine  white  salt, 
from  one  to  three  inches  in  thickness,  which  is  chrystalized  by  the 
evaporation  under  the  summer  sun.  I  rode  many  miles,  to-day, 
over  a  pure  sheet  of  snow-white  salt,  glistening  most  brilhantly  un- 
der the  clear  sky.  The  incrustation  is  quite  hard ;  but  it  only 
slightly  attaches  to  the  moist  ground  below.  Men,  with  wooden 
mallets  furnished  with  long  handles,  pass  over  the  sheet  and  beat  it 
in  pieces,  and  others  follow  them  and  shovel  the  salt  into  heaps.  If 
it  is  not  immediately  to  be  placed  upon  the  backs  of  donkeys  and 
carried  to  market,  the  heaps  are  collected  into  conical  piles,  as  large 
as  a  small  dwelling;  and  these  are  covered  with  a  thick  layer  of 
mud  from  the  spot,  which  hardens  under  tl'>esun  and  will  efTectually 
shield  the  contents  from  snow  and  rain  for  a  long  period.  Salt  of 
course  commands  a  price  here  little  more  than  sufficient  to  pay  for 
the  transportation.  On  the  shore  of  the  lake,  it  possesses  hardly  an 
assignable  value.  All  the  salt,  which  is  not  secured  in  the  manner 
I  have  mentioned,  disappears  under  the  rains  and  snows  of  autumn 
and  winter.  The  natives  state  that,  for  the  last  five  or  six  years,  the 
minimum  level  of  the  waters  of  the  lake  has  been  several  feet  higher 
than  at  former  periods.  And  some  add,  that  before  this  rise,  per- 
manent salt  banks  had  gradually  accumulated  on  the  shore  which 
are  now  buried  under  the  water.  It  is  a  known  fact,  that  in  a  small 
pond,  six  or  eight  feet  deep,  separated  from  the  lake  by  a  narrow 
strip  of  land,  salt  is  always  found  at  the  bottom  in  great  abundance. 
The  low  land,  in  the  near  vicinity  of  the  lake,  on  all  sides,  is  so 
impregnated  with  salt,  that  it  produces  no  vegetation,  except  a  weed 
which  the  Persians  collect  and  burn  to  procure  an  alkali  for  making 
glass.  I  examined  several  holes,  a  few  feet  deep,  on  the  shore,  but 
could  discover  no  distinct  layers  of  salt,  alternating  with  strata  of 
sand,  which  some  have  supposed  to  exist.  The  interior  surfaces  were 
incrusted  with  a  very  thin  coat,  that  had  been  dried  by  the  sun.  There 
are  immense  tracts  of  salt  land — salt  deserts,  as  they  are  often  call- 
ed,— in  different  parts  of  Persia.  The  natives  say,  that  one  third 
of  their  country  is  Skorikdt — saltish.  The  salt  mountain  near  Ta- 
breez  is  based  on  the  great  salt  plain  which  extends  to  the  lake,  and 
the  same  is  true  of  one  of  the  mines  between  Khoy  and  Salmas. 

In  the  region  of  Lake  Oroomiah  are  many  mineral  springs  of  vari- 
ous descriptions.  At  one  locality,  on  the  eastern  side,  near  the  vil- 
lage Leewan,  three  springs  issue  within  a  space  of  eight  or  ten  yards, 
each  differing  from  the  rest  in  the  quality  of  its  water.  One  is  a 
hot  spring, — the  second,  acid, — and  the  third,  highly  sulphurous  and 
fetid.  And  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  small  fresh-water  stream  is  a 
fourth,  which  is  impregnated  with  ^ron.  On  the  mountain  ridge 
between  Oroomiah  and  Salmas,  is  a  warm  spring,  which  Malek 
Kasem  xMeerza  has  fitted  up  for  a  public  bath,  and  generously  keeps 
open  for  the  gratuitous  use  of  both  Muhammedans  and  Christians. 
The  springs  near  xMaragha,  which  are  supposed  to  deposite  the 
beautiful  alabaster,  I  have  elsewhere  mentioned.    The  geology  of 


NATURAL  SCIENCES  NIGHT-RIDE. 


395 


this  region  is  exceedingly  interesting,  but  very  little  understood. 
Has  it  not  a  striking  resen:iblance,  in  its  salt  rnouiitains,  lake,  etc. 
to  the  valley  of  the  Dead  Sea  ?  I  have  forwarded  a  few  specimens 
and  stated  some  facts  to  Prof.  Hitchcock  of  Amherst,  sonie  of  which 
he  has  presented  to  the  attention  of  the  Association  of  American 
Geologists  and  Naturalists. 

I  have  often  regretted  my  inability  to  contribute  more  to  the  in- 
terests of  the  natural  sciences,  by  not  possessing  a  better  acquain- 
tance with  them  ;  and  did  not  my  missionary  work  press  with  a  moun- 
tain weight  upon  me,  I  should  be  strongly  tenipted  at  least  to  study 
Geology  in  a  somewhat  systematic  manner,  so  wonderfully  interest- 
ing does  the  face  of  Persia  appear,  in  a  geological  point  of  view. 
This  and  the  other  natural  sciences  have  peculiar  claims  on  foreign 
missionaries,  who,  visiting,  as  they  do,  all  parts  of  the  world,  enjoy 
opportunities  for  contributing  to  the  advancement  of  this  department 
of  knowledge,  with  almost  no  sacrifice  of  time  nr  effort,  which  are 
possessed  by  no  other  class  of  American  citizens.  Candidates  for 
missions  should  have  this  in  mind,  and  as  they  would  increase  their 
future  usefulness,  secure  a  good  practical  knowledge  of  the  physical 
sciences,  as  an  important  part  of  their  academical  education.  I 
need  not  remind  them,  at  this  day,  that  such  knowledge  is  neither 
hostile  nor  foreign  to  the  missionary's  grand  object.  For  it  can 
hardly  now  be  doubted,  that  it  is  the  combined  light  of  all  truth, 
— scientific  as  well  as  religious,  which  is  to  usher  in,  and  indeed 
constitute,  the  radiant  effulgence  of  millennial  day. 

Oct.  4.  Mr  Stocking  went  to  Ardishai  and  completed  the  ar- 
rangement with  Mar  Gabriel  for  a  school.  The  measure  is  very 
timely;  particularly,  as  last  evening  Mar  Gabriel  received  a  letter 
from  the  Catholic  bishop  of  Salmas,  signed  also  by  a  French  Jesuit 
who  is  now  there,  flattering  that  vain  young  man  with  the  most  ful- 
some string  of  bombastic  epithets  and  compliments  that  even  an 
oriental  tongue  can  furnish;  proposing  to  visit  him  and  evincing  a 
determination,  if  possible,  to  bring  him  over  to  the  interest  of  Rome. 
We  have  placed  an  excellent  teacher,  priest  Yohannan,  over  that 
school  for  a  time,  as  we  regard  both  the  place  and  the  undertaking 
very  important,  in  their  relation  to'  the  general  interests  of  our  work. 

Oct.  6.  Tooth-ache  and  a  swelled  face  prevented  my  preaching 
this  afternoon,  and  Mr.  Stocking  conducted  a  meeting  in  my  place. 
Just  at  dark,  a  messenger  arrived  from  Mar  Gabriel,  stating  that 
the  bishop  wished  me  to  come  to  his  village  as  soon  as  possible ;  as 
the  Papal  emissaries  were  in  the  city  and  would  come  to  visit  him 
to-morrow.  Regarding  the  emergency  as  one  of  importance  to  our 
mission,  Mr.  Stocking  and  myself  determined  to  start  immediately 
for  Ardishai, — my  tooth-ache  and  swelled  face,  the  distance,  (fif- 
teen miles,)  and  the  darkness  of  the  night  notwithstanding.  We 
reached  the  village  about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  at 
lenorth  succeeded  in  rousing  Mar  Gabriel,  who,  with  the  rest  of  the 
villagers,  was  in  profound  sleep,  hardly  having  expected  us  until  the 


396 


DILEMMA  OF  TIJE  BISHOP  DECISION. 


next  morning.  "We  \vere  soon  seated  around  a  lamp,  and  priest  Yo- 
hannan,  the  teacher,  requested  all  preseht,  except  Mr.  Stocking  and 
myself,  to  retire,  while  he  should  state  to  us  the  object  of  the  bishop 
in  sending  for  us;  the  substance  of  which  proved  to  be  as  follows; 
viz.  Mar  Gabriel,  fancying  himself  to  have  been  slighted  by  his 
clerical  brethren,  and  being  strongly  assailed  by  the  Papal  emissa- 
ries with  flatteries  and  promises  had,  in  an  evil  hoi:r,  yielded  to  the 
temptatiou  and  given  some  encouragement  of  allowing  them  to  come 
among  his  people.  On  reflection,  however,  he  had  repented  of  the 
rash  step,  and  now  wished  to  rid  himself  of  them.  At  first  the  bishop 
desired  us  to  remain  until  they  should  come,  that  we  might  be  with 
him  and  shield  him  by  our  presence  from  their  solicitations.  But 
on  farther  reflection,  he  shrunk  from  seeing  them  in  person,  and  re- 
solved to  prepare  for  them  a  letter,  declining  an  interview,  and  then 
return  home  with  us  to  the  city.  He  accordingly  directed  priest 
Dunka,  who  was  with  us,  to  write  a  letter,  to  the  principal  Jesuit, 
which  he  dictated  as  follows,  viz.  "Be  it  known  to  you,  M.  B. 
that  I  did  once  give  you  some  encouragement  to  come  here  to  open 
schools.  But  my  people,  being  apprised  of  this,  have  rallied  around 
me  and  declared,  that  if  I  encourage. you,  deceivers  as  you  are,  to 
come  among  them,  they  will  all  forsake  me,  and  no  longer  acknow- 
ledge me  as  their  bishop.  Be  it  known  to  you,  therefore,  that  I 
have  nothing  farther  to  do  with  you,  and  you  must  beware  of  coming 
into  any  village  among  my  people."  We  started  for  home  about  3 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  Mar  Gabriel  accompanying  us,  and  arrived  a  little 
after  break  of  day,  much  faUgxied  with  the  nocturnal  ride,  accompa- 
nied, in  my  case,  with  serious  indispositijMi.  The  hand  of  God, 
however,  was  so  apparent  in  oyr  being  summoned  to  Ardishai,  in 
this  juncture  of  affairs,  thijt  our  weariness  was  matter  of  mutuaj 
congratulation.  Immediately  on  reaching  the  city,  Mar  Gabriel 
sent  his  letter  to  the  Jesuit,  who  was  quite  surprised  and  not  a  little 
enraged,  on  receiving  it,  and  returned  a  verbal  answer,  that  he 
should  pay  ao  regard  to  the  bishop,  bi^t  go  on  with  the  royal  au- 
thority of  which  he.  said  he  was  in  possession,  and  establish  schools 
■wheje  he  pleased.  Our  patrons  at  home  should  hAve  in  mind,  that 
the  most  formidable  antagonist  which  their  missionaries  in  Asia 
have  to  encounter,  ia  Papal  influence.  If  there  is  one  human  be- 
ing, of  whom  more  than  all  others,  the  strong  language  of  the  apos- 
tle to  Elymas,  the  sorcerer^  "  thou  enemy  of  righteousness,  thou 
child  of  the  devil,"  may  be  applied,  that  individual  is  the  European 
JesJiit,  in  his  wily  eflforts  to  oppose  and  embarrass  Protestant  mis- 
sionaries. 

Oct.  7.  The  Persian  noble,  who  interrupted  our  building  at 
Gavalan,  beat  and  abused  our  workmen,  bastinadoed  the  unoffend- 
ing bishop,  and  extorted  from  him  and  his  father  250  dollars,  does 
not  finally  escape  with  entire  impunity.  We  reported  the  matter 
to  the  Russian  consul-general,  at  the  time,  and  he  promptly  laid  it 
before  the  Emeer-i-nizam,  demauding  redress.    The  Emeer  sent  a 


LETIfER  (>F  THE  P^llNCE  KOYAL  ORDEH.  397 


sheriff  to  Oroomiah  with  orders  to  take  from  the  Khan  the  extorted 
money,  and  restore  it  to  the  rightful  owners.  The  Khan,  however, 
who  is  an  obstinate  man,  struggled  hard,  by  bribing  the  sheriff  and 
in  other  ways,  to  evade  justice.  Our  royal  friend,  MaJek  Kasera 
Meerz^,  happened,  at  this  time,  to  be  at  the  capital  and  in  great 
favor  with  the  king.  And  Mr.  Merrick,  who  is  in  intimate  corres- 
pondence with  that  prince,  detailed  the  whole  affair  to  him  in  a  let^ 
ter.  To-day,  we  received  letters  from  Tabreez,  and  among  others 
one  that  had  just  reached  Mr.  M.  from  MaJek  Kisem  IVJeerza,  in 
answer  to  his,  from  which  the  following  is  an  extract. 

"  I  have  received  your  letters,  the  one  on  the  14th  of  August, 
and  the  other  on  the  24th  of  the  same.  I  spoke  to  His  Maj.esty 
about  the  disturbance  given  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Perkins,  Ilis  Majesty 
crd.ered  me  to  present  hirn  a  petition  pa  the  subject.  I  did  accord- 
ingly, in  your  name,  ^is  you  may  see.  {lis  Majesty  was  so  kind 
to  write  himself  the  answer  on  the  upper  part.  You  will  take  the 
trouble  of  reading  the  enclosed,  and  presenting  U  afterwards  to  His 
Royal  Highness,  Kahraman  Meerza,  [prince-governor  of  Azer- 
bijin,]  but  you  will  keep  it  in  case  of  necessity.  I  hope  any 
other  molestation  cannot  happen.  His  Majesty  has  coipferred  on 
me  the  honor  of  being  the  chief  of  the  public  schools  in  Azerbijan, 
and  has  delivered  to  me  also  firmans  in  favor  of  all  the  gentlemefli 
devoted  to  the  public  welfa,re,"  [i.  e.  to  the  missionaries]. 

The  answer  which  the  king  wrote  with  his  own  hand*  on  the 
head  of  the  petition  presented  by  the  prince,  is  the  following. 

Royal  Ordek. 

"Kahraman  Meerza : 

Those  learned  men  [meaning  the  missionaries]  must  be  held  in 
honor;  especially  that  holy  stranger!  who  has  come  from  the  New 
Wofid  at  his  own  expense,  and  teaches  knowledge  to  our  subjects. 
By  all  means,  inquire  into  the  wishes  of  his  heart,  and  cause  him 
to  be  satisfied.  Let  him  erect  a  dwelling  for  himself  there.  And 
that  man,  Nazir  Ali  Khan,  who  has  so  much  anuoyed  the  man 
from  the  New  World,  you  must  surely  punish." 

This  docunrvent  was  presented  to  Prince  Kahramaln  Meerza,  by 
Mr.  Merrick,  accompanied  and  assisted  by  MaJek  Mansoor  Meerza, 
who  has  aiso  shown  much  interest  and  kindness  in  our  favor.  The 

*  Tlie  desti-kkod — autograph,  of  the  J^ing,  on  any  4ocu,nient,  is  regarded 
as  a  mark  of  great  respect  shown  to  the  person  of  party  in  favor  of  whom  it 
is  given,  and  as  imparting  speciaJ  authority  to  the  document  itself.  The 
king's  seal,  and  this  only,  is  usually  affixed  by  the  secretaries. 

+  Having  been  longest  in  the  country,  my  name  was  more  familial  to  the 
authorities,  than  those  of  th,e  oUhet  menabers  of  our  misaiou^  ae,d  I  am  there- 
fore referred  to  individually  in  these  documents. 


398 


REDRESS  ACKNOWLEDGEMENT. 


prince-governor  strongly  reprimanded  Nazir  Ali  Khan,  who  was 
summoned  to  his  presence  on  the  occasion,  and  ordered  him  to  re- 
store the  whole  of  the  extorted  money  without  delay.  A  sheriff 
came  immediately  to  Oroomiah  and  carried  the  king's  order,  thus 
backed  by  the  prince  of  the  province,  into  execution.  The  com- 
mand of  His  Majesty  could  not  be  set  aside,  hard  as  the  Khan  still 
struggled  to  evade  it,  even  until  his  property  was  seized  and  sold, 
alike  to  raise  the  money  he  had  unjustly  taken,  and  to  defray  the 
heavy  expenses  of  the  whole  affair.  The  matter  became  extensive- 
ly known,  and  excited  strong  sympathy  in  our  favor,  from  the 
peasant  up  to  the  throne.  Thus  does  the  Lord  cause  the  wrath  of 
man  to  praise  him,  and  the  remainder  thereof  restrain. 

We  are  laid  under  great  obligation  to  Malek  Kasem  Meerza,  for 
his  kind  agency  in  our  behalf,  in  this  instance,  as  well  as  for  the 
interest  which  he  has  uniformly  shown  in  our  welfare,  ever  since 
we  came  to  Persia.  In  behalf  of  our  mission,  I  addressed  to  him  at 
this  time,  the  following  letter,  to  acknowledge  our  obligations. 
I  ought,  perhaps,  earlier  in  this  volume,  to  have  noticed  the  fact  of 
having  had  frequent  occasion,  in  the  course  of  our  work,  to  address 
superiors  in  Persia,  in  a  more  formal,  and  possibly,  more  courtly, 
manner,  than  may  appear  to  all  as  suitable  in  a  missionary,  if  it 
be  so  in  a  republican.  I  need  only  say,  that  we  must  be  guided 
by  conventional  usage, — becoming,  on  points  unessential,  all  things 
to  all  men, — heeding  the  apostle's  injunction  to  be  "  courteous,"  and 
following  his  example  in  giving  honor  to  whom  honor  is  due,  and 
using  proper  titles,  as  he  did  in  addressing  a  heathen  governor. 
Most  Noble  Festus,  and  as  did  Luke  in  dedicating  his  gospel,  to  the 
Most  Excellent  Theophilus.  There  is  of  course  the  more  need  of 
particularity  in  these  matters,  where  they  are  so  much  esteemed  as 
they  are  in  the  East,  and  where  omission  might  be  regarded  not 
only  as  a  mark  of  rudeness  and  ignorance,  but  of  intended  dis- 
respect. 

''Oroomiah,  Oct.  9,  1839. 
To  His  Royal  Highness,  Malek  Kasem  Meerza, 

May  it  please  your  Royal  Highness, — Permit  me  to  inform  you, 
that  we  have  been  fa'vored  with  the  perusal  of  a  letter  from  your 
Royal  Highness  to  our  esteemed  friend,  the  Rev.  J.  L.  Merrick, 
under  date  of  the  3d  ult.,  in  which  you  mention  your  very  kind 
agency  in  our  behalf,  in  having  stated  to  His  Majesty  the  circum- 
stances pertaining  to  the  annoyances  which  we  have  experienced 
from  Nazir  Ali  Khan,  and  procured  orders,  in  His  Majesty's  own 
hand  writing ,  for  the  redress  of  the  same. 

I  beg  to  assure  you  that  we  most  highly  appreciate  these  new  to- 
kens of  your  kindness  to  us,  and  your  condescending  interest  in  our 
welfare,  as  well  as  the  very  important  favors  themselves.  These 
instances  of  your  condescension  and  kindness  lay  us  under  obliga- 
tions to  your  Royal  Highness,  which  it  is  impossible  for  us  to  ex- 


RELATION  TO  THE  MUHAMMEDANS. 


399 


pr^s3.  But  we  beg  to  tender  you  the  assuranqe  of  our  lively  sense 
of  them,  and  of  our  rnoet  unfeigned  gratitude. 

Nor  cau  we  forbear,  in  this  connexion,  to  express  to  your  Royal 
Highness,  our  very  dee|)  and  grateful  sense  of  his  Majesty,  the 
Shah's,  condescension,  in  the  very  gracious  manner  in  which  he  has 
been  pleased  to  notice,  protect  and  encourage  us.  These  most  grati- 
fying tokens  of  His  Majesty's  favor,  cause  us  to  look  up  to  the  foot  of 
the  throne  with  emotions  of  profound  gratitude  and  to  feel  increasing- 
ly anxious  to  do  all  in  our  power  to  benefit  his  loyal  subjects  ;  while 
it  is  our  fervent  and  unceasing  prayer,  that  the  God  of  the  universe, 
who  has  all  gifts  to  bestow,  would  grant  to  His  Majesty  a  full  mea- 
sure of  health — long  life — great  prosjierity  in  the  government  of  his 
empire,  and  the  richest  blessings  both  for  time  and  eternity. 

We  have  the  impression  that  Mr.  Merrick  has  mentioned  to  your 
Royal  Highness  the  very  kind  interest  which  your  worthy  brotherj 
Malek  Mansoor  Meerza,  has  always  manifested  in  our  welfare, — 
and  particularly,  in  relation  to  the  annoyances  which  we  have  suf- 
fered from  Nazir  All  Khan.  We  are  happy  to  inform  you,  that  we 
feel  ourselves  laid  under  great  obligation  to  His  Royal  Highness. 

In  conclusion,  we  can  only  reiterate  our  heartfelt  thanks  for  the 
many  instances  of  your  Highness'  interest  and  efforts  for  our  wel- 
fare; while  we  would  assure  you,  that  it  will  not  cease  to  be  our 
fervent  prayer,  that  the  Lord  may  amply  reward  you  for  all  these 
favors,  by  bestowing  the  highest  blessings  on  you  personally,  and 
on  all  your  interests  in  the  present  life,  and  by  granting  you,  in  the 
life  to  come,  unfading  and  unending  happiness. 

Permit  me  to  add,  that  it  is  our  particular  prayer,  that  the  Lord 
may  grant  complete  success  to  your  philanthropic  and  indefatigable 
efforts,  to  advance  the  civilization  and  welfare  of  the  people  of  this 
country;  and  so  far  as  our  humble  instrumentality  can  contribute 
to  facilitate  these  momentous  objects,  we  beg  to  pledge  to  your 
Royal  Highness,  our  most  cordial  cooperation. 

With  sentiments  of  great  respect  and  sincere  gratitude,  in  which 
my  colleagues  most  heartily  unite  with  me,  I  have  the  honor  to 
remain, 

Your  Royal  Highness'  most  obedient  servant, 

In  behalf  of  the  American  mission-  )  /o-      n        t  d  )i 
.J    ^    ^  ^  /     •  u  /  (Signed)       J.  JfERKiNS. 
sionaries  resident  at  Oroomian,  )  ^   °  ' 

In  this  whole  affair  of  our  summer  retreat,  we  see  the  importance 
of  our  standing  in  a  favorable  relation  toward  the  MCihammedans, 
as  we  would  be  secure  in  our  labors  for  the  benefit  of  the  Nesto- 
rians.  Mr.  Merrick  has  been  able  to  reach  the  throne,  by  means 
of  his  acquaintance  with  Malek  Kasem  Meerza,  with  an  influence 
that  secures  to  us  prompt  redress  for  injury  and  full  protection.  To 
maintain  this  favorable  position,  we  must  do  good  to  the  Moham- 
medans as  we  have  opportunity,  as  well  as  to  their  Nestorian  sub- 
jects. 


400 


PROVIDENTIAL  TAVORS. 


We  are  especially  called  upon  to  thank  God  and  fake  courage^ 
for  granting  us  such  favor  in  the  eyes  of  the  king,  princes  and  ru- 
lers of  Persia,  at  a  time  when  we  have  so  much  needed  it,  in  the 
absence  of  the  English  embassy.  We  naturally  felt  not  a  little  so- 
licitude respecting  the  political  rupture,  between  the  English  and 
P-^.rsian  governments,  to  which  allusion  has  been  made,  and  the 
highly  threatening  urospect  of  immediate  war  between  the  two  na- 
tions. The  only  alternative  before  us  seemed,  for  some  time,  to  be 
the  abandonment  of  our  charming  missionary  field,  at  least  tempo- 
rarily, in  the  then  incipient  and  critical  state  of  its  culture,  or 
to  entrust  ourselves,  in  this  remote  Mohammedan  land,  to  the 
mercy  of  the  excited  Persians,  in  the  storms  of  hostile  collision, 
who,  we  supposed,  would  naturally  identify  us  with  the  English, 
whose  protection  we  had  previously  enjoyed, — especially  as  our  dis- 
tinct nationality  as  Americans,  was  still  but  very  imperfectly  under- 
stood. Some  time  before  the  English  embassy  withdrew  from  the 
country,  however,  the  Persian  authorities,  of  their  own  accord,  re- 
lieved us,  (before  we  applied  for  the  protection  of  the  Russian  embas- 
sy,) by  pledging  to  as  their  efficient  protection,  whntever  might  be  the 
issue  of  the  pending  difficulties  between  them  and  the  English. 
"  Hitherto,"  said  the  governor  of  Oroomiah,  "  I  have  regarded  you 
as  my  brothers ;  now  that  the  English  ambassador  lehves  the  country, 
I  shall  assume  the  place  of  n  father  to  you."  And  however  treacher- 
ous the  Persians  may  be  toward  foreigners  in  their  diplomatic  trans- 
actions, (and  they  are  too  justly  charged  with  flagrant  treachery  in 
these  matters,)  they  have,  from  the  king  down  to  the  city  magistrate, 
redeemed  their  pledge  to  extend  to  us  uninterrupted  protection. 

From  whatever  motives  the  Persians  have  thus  protected  us,  the 
fact  that  we,  defenceless  missionaries,  were  enabled  lo  prosecute  all 
our  various  and  extended  operations,  in  the  heart  of  distant,  Mu- 
hammedan  Persia,  without  any  interruption,  duritjg  the  almost  three 
years' absence  of  the  only  Protestant  Christian  embassy  that  had 
been  in  that  coui\try, — and  while  the  power  to  which  it  belonged 
and  whose  protection  we  were  known  to  ha^e  enjoyed,  assumed  a 
directly  hostile  attitude  toward  Persia, — strongly  evinces  the  'vigi- 
lant care  of  the  great  Head  of  missions,  that  the  door  of  faith  which 
He  had  opened  fur  us  unto  the  gentiles  should  not  be  closed,  by  po- 
litical commotions,  however  threatening.  And  it  is  only  one  of  a 
great  many  facts,  connected  with  our  work,  which  should,  in  all 
our  prayers  and  labors  for  the  advancement  of  -Christ's  kingdom, 
even  amid  approaching  convulsions  or  apparent  reverses,  give  as 
unwavering  confidence  in  the  security  and  stability  of //is  cause, 
who  himself  rides  upon  the  moral,  as  well  as  the  physical,  whirl- 
wind and  directs  the  storm.  Indeed,  the  repeated  favors  which 
we  have  from  time  to  time  received,  imsolicited,  from  the  king  and 
other  members  of  the  royal  family  in  Persia,  and  which  have  con- 
tributed so  essentially  to  our  personal  safety  and  the  prosperity  of 
our  work,  have  often  delightfully  impressed  us,  as  being  at  least  a 


BEREAVEMENT  A  MAN  IN  CUSTODY. 


401 


partial  fulfilment  of  the  cheering  promises  of  Scripture  to  Zion  in 
latter  days,  that  kings  shall  be  her  nursing  fathers  and  queens  her 
nursing  mothers. 

Dec.  23.  William  R.,  our  little  boy,  came  into  my  study  where 
I  sat  translating  with  priests  Abraham  and  Dunka.  He  has  until 
recently  been  a  very  sickly,  delicate  child,  but  is  now  quite  well. 
"William,"  said  priest  Dunka,  "has,  by  the  divine  blessing,  be- 
come very  healthy  and  fair,  but  Justin,  had  he  lived,  would  have 
been  much  more  fair.  Thus  the  Lord,  praised  be  his  name,  (con- 
tinued the  priest,)  always  selects  the  best  for  himself.  It  was  so 
also  in  my  family."  Some  time  previous  to  the  death  of  our  child, 
priest  Dunka  had  committed  to  the  grave  a  very  fine  boy,  to  whom 
he  referred  in  this  last  allusion.  He  was  also  bereaved  of  his  wife 
about  the  same  time  ;  and  in  connexion  with  the  above  remarks,  he 
spoke  very  tenderjy  of  her,  saying  that  if  ever  there  was  a  person 
who  loved  and  feared  God,  he  believed  his  departed  wife  was 
one.  Observing  that  I  listened  with  interest  to  his  remarks,  he 
proceeded  to  state,  that  often,  on  awaking  in  the  night,  he  had  found 
that  his  wife  had  risen  and  retired  for  prayer.  And  on  his  asking 
her  why  she  had  risen,  she  wpuld  reply,  that  thoughts  of  God  and 
eternity  canie  over  her  with  such  deep  solemnity,  she  could  not 
sleep  and  felt  constrained  to  rise  and  pray. 

With  the  amount  of  scriptural  knowledge  which  many  of  the 
Nestorians  possess,  their  attachment  to  the  Bible  and  the  christian 
religion,  and  the  serious,  devotional  habits  of  some  of  them,  I  can- 
not help  hoping  that  there  may  be  here  and  there  a  praying  Anna 
and  Simeon,  even  now  waiting  for  the  consolation  of  Israel.  Such 
is  the  case  of  priest  Dunka.  He  sustained  his  bereavement  of  a 
wife  and  child  to  whom  he  was  tenderly  attached,  with  a  degree  of 
resignation  that  would  adorn  a  Christian.  Nor  have  we,  during  his 
long  residence  with  us,  known  anything  amiss  in  his  conduct.  And 
may  not  his  wife  also,  if  his  account  of  her  be  correct,  have  been  a 
humble  disciple  of  Christ  ?  Much  the  same  is  true  of  some  others, 
who  have  come  under  the  influence  of  our  nnission ;  and  we  know 
'not  of  how  many  more,  with  whom  we  have  no  personal  acquaint- 
ance. 

Dec.  25.  Our  Muhammedan  Meerza  attended  our  Christmas 
service,  and  expressed  himself  highly  pleased  with  the  sermon  on 
the  occasion,  which  was  preached  by  Mr.  Jones,  from  the  text, 
*'  Glory  to  God  in  the  highest,  and  on  earth,  peace,  good  will  toward 
men."  His  knowledge  of  English,  though  imperfect,  is  such  as 
enabled  him  to  understand  a  considerable  part  of  the  sermon ;  and 
his  commendation  of  it  shows  that  he  is  at  least  very  liberal  for  a 
Mussulman.  This  Meerza  has  often  attended  our  religious  meet- 
ings, kneeling  with  us  in  prayer,  and  reading  in  turn  his  verse  of 
Scripture  in  Bible-class  exercises. 

Dec.  26.  As  I  was  returning  from  the  bazar,  my  attention  was 
arrested  by  a  crowd  of  men,  with  an  individual  in  custody,  moving 

51 


402 


NOTE  FROM  COL.  STODDART. 


toward  the  palace  of  the  governor.  On  asking  the  cause,  i  was 
told  that  the  man  had  been  drinking  wine.  And  on  farther  inquiry, 
I  learjied  that  the  governor  has  recently  issued  a  special  order  for 
the  arrest  of  all  persons  who  shall  be  detected  in  wine-drinking. 
Here  is  temperance  with  a  witness.  The  worthy  governor,  more- 
over, places  the  crime,  wholly  on  religious  ground, — the  Prophet 
having  forbidden  the  use  of  wine.  With  all  his  Excellency's  rigor, 
however,  he  cannot  stay  the  swelling  tide.  Probably  nine  tenths  of 
the  Mohammedans  of  Oroomiah  use  wine  in  secret  at  least;  and 
many  of  them  indulge  in  it  to  brutal  intoxication.  And  this  inef- 
fectual attempt  to  arrest  the  practice,  on  religious  ground,  is  but 
one  of  the  innumerable  indications  which  we  witness,  that  Islamisin 
is  on  the  wane. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

JOURNAL:  JANUARY— MARCH,  1840. 

The  following  note  was  brought  to  me  to-day,  Jan.  1,  by  aKoord- 
ish  chief  who  received  it  under  the  walls  of  Herat  about  fifteen 
months  ago.  To  make  it  as  secure  as  possible,  the  Koord  ripped 
open  the  skirt  of  his  garment,  placed  it  between  the  folds  and  again 
stitched  them  together.  On  reaching  his  home,  about  a  thousand 
miles  from  Herat,  he  remembered  that  he  had  taken  a  note  in  charge 
for  me,  but  had  forgotten  what  disposal  he  made  of  it.  A  year  after- 
ward, it  occurred  to  him,  that  he  had  enclosed  it  within  the  skirt  of 
his  garment,  and  he  lost  no  time  in  coming  a  day's  journey,  from  the 
mountains  back  of  Oroomiah,  on  purpose  to  bring  it.  This  was  faith- 
ful for  a  Koord.  The  note  was  almost  worn  out,  in  common  with  the 
garment  itself,  but  the  writing  was  still  legible.    It  was  as  follows: 

"  My  dear  friend, 

By  Ismail  Aga,  a  worthy  Koordish  friend  of  mine,  I  send  a  few 
lines  to  express  the  interest  I  take  in  your  undertaking  at  Oroomiah, 
in  planting  the  principles  of  the  gospel.  May  the  Almighty  bless 
you  in  this  his  special  service !  I  received  here  a  very  interesting 
account  of  your  proceedings  and  of  the  respect  with  which  you  are 
held  to  the  glory  of  Christ's  name  and  your  own  eternal  profit,  from 
Ibrahim  Khaleel  Khan,  Affshar,  also  one  of  your  well-wishers.  Re- 
member me  kindly  to  your  circle  and  ever  believe  me,  not  only  for 
the  sake  of  your  work  and  yourself,  but  for  the  sake  of  the  friends  I 
have  in  your  land,  Yours  sincerely, 

(Signed)  C.  Stoddabt. 

Royal  Camp,  near  Herat,  8th  Sept.  1838. 


BRITISH  INFLUENCE  VISIT  FROM  MR.  ABBOTT.  403 


P.  S.  Tomorrow,  the  Shah  leaves  this  with  his  forces,  at  British 
recommendation,  and  peace  is  restored  to  this  unhappy  neighbor- 
hood and  city.    Thanks  to  God.  C.  S," 

The  writer  of  tiie  above  is  Lieut.  Col.  Stoddart,  the  officer  sent 
by  the  ambassador  to  announce  to  the  king  the  demand  of  the  En- 
£;lish  government,  that  his  Persian  Majesty  should  raise  the  siege  of 
Herat. 

Jan.  4.  The  English  are  rapidly  extending  their  conquests  in 
Aifghanistan.  This  opens  an  encouraging  prospect  to  the  churches. 
There  may,  soon,  be  no  more  difficulty  in  sending  missionaries  into 
those  wild,  remote  regions,  enjoying  English  protection,  than  into 
India.  And  the  tide  of  European  light  which  will  roll  up  the  Indus, 
as  English  political  influence  prepares  the  way,  cannot  fail  to  do 
much  to  civilize  the  inhabitants  of  central  Asia  and  facilitate  the 
progress  of  the  gospel.  How  instructive  to  watch  the  hand  of  Pro- 
vidence, in  the  political  changes  in  these  Eastern  countries  !  A 
temporary  rupture  was  permitted  to  take  place  between  England 
and  Persia,  which  has  harmed  nobody,  but  is  leading  to  the  con- 
quest of  the  vast  territories  of  Affghanistan,  by  an  English  army,  and 
will  probably  result  in  the  rapid  increase  of  English  influence  in 
Persia  and  all  these  regions. 

Jan.  7.  We  have  just  enjoyed  a  visit  from  Mr.  Abbot,  an  English 
merchant  resident  at  Tabreez.*  He  is  a  gentleman  from  whom  we 
have  experienced  much  kindness,  since  we  came  to  Persia  ;  and  it 
gives  us  sincere  pleasure  to  enjoy  a  visit  from  him, — particularly 
as  our  situation  is  so  remote  that  we  seldom  see  a  European.  Mr. 
A.,  though  not  a  professor  of  religion,  cherishes  great  respect  for  it 
and  manifests  much  interest  in  our  missionary  objects  and  opera- 
tions. Being  an  intelligent,  discriminating  man,  and  familiar  with 
these  Eastern  lands,  his  opinion  on  maiTy  points  pertaining  to  our 
work  is  valuable.  In  conversation  in  relation  to  Persia,  he  express- 
ed to  me  the  opinion,  that  it  would  erelong  fail  into  the  hands  of 
some  christian  power,  or  powers,  which  is  indeed  but  the  echo  of 
the  universal  apprehension  and  expectation  of  the  natives, — and  that 
no  sooner  will  this  be  the  case,  than  multitudes  of  the  Persians  will 
embrace  Christianity.  All  the  Soofees,  (Persian  transcendentaiists,) 
said  Mr.  A.  are  only  waiting  for  such  a  change  to  protect  them, 
and  they  will  publicly  abjure  the  Muhammedan  system;  and  in  this 
point  of  view,  he  continued,  there  is  great  encouragement  for  mis- 
sionary efforts  in  the  form  of  general  instruction  among  the  Mussul- 
mans, to  prepare  the  way  for  the  spread  of  the  gospel,  whenever  the 
anticipated  political  changes  shall  take  place. 

Jan.  8.  Our  Muhammedan  school,  which  coFhmenced  with  one 
scholar,  a  short  time  ago,  has  increased  to  ten  very  promising  boys 
and  young  men.    Regarding  the  Muhammedans  as  fellow  men, 


*  Now  British  consul  at  Tehrin. 


404 


jrUHAMMEDAN  SCHOOL  BEASOWS  FOR  IT. 


possessing  immortal  spirits  like  our  own, — bound  with  us  to  a  com- 
mon judgment  and  an  unending- eternity, — and  regarding  Persia  as  a 
part  of  the  great  field  which  "  is  the  world,"  as  destined  with  alt 
other  countries,  to  become,  one  day,  Imnianuel's  land,  and  contem- 
plating the  commanding  influence  which  it  has  ever  exerted  and  must 
continue  to  exert  on  other  portions  of  Asia,  we  cannot  view  this  in- 
fant Mussulman  school  as  among  the  least  promising  of  our  mis- 
sionary operations.  As  the  object  and  bearing  of  efforts  of  this 
kind  for  the  Muhammedans  are  less  likely  to  be  understood  and 
appreciated,  than  our  direct  religious  labors  for  the  Nestorians,  I 
should  perhaps  more  formally  state,  in  this  connexion,  the  reasons 
for  this  school.  It  is  important  for  the  immediate  benefit  which  it 
brings  to  the  scholars,  and  may  bring  through  them  to  multitudes 
of  their  countrymen.  The  many  temporal  advantages,  which  they 
will  derive  from  it,  need  not  be  detailed.  And  if  it  result  not,  also, 
in  the  personal  salvation  of  some  of  them,  which  is  by  no  means 
beyond  the  reach  of  hope,  it  will  at  least  tend  decidedly  to  prepare 
the  way,  by  allaying  prejudice  and  diffusing  intelligence,  for  the 
future  triumphs  of  the  gospel. 

A  Mussulman  school,  in  connexion  with  our  mission,  is  yet  more 
important,  as  a  means  of  security  to  our  operations  among  the  Nes- 
torians. We  may  regard  it  in  the  light  of  a  peace-offering,  to  con- 
ciliate the  Muhammedans,  who  are  at  least  three-fourths  of  the 
population  of  Oroomiah,  and  in  the  midst  of  whom  we  are  doing- 
so  much  to  instruct  and  benefit  their  Nestorian  subjects.  They 
would  probably  become  dissatisfied,  by  seeing  themselves  longer 
passed  by  in  our  educational  labors,  and  all  our  efforts  bestowed  on 
their  despised  christian  serfs;  and  especially  in  the  face  of  the  very 
friendly  attentions  and  favors  which  the  Mohammedans  of  all 
classes  have  shown  us,  during  our  entire  residence  in  their  country. 
Such  a  school  is  also  requested  by  the  Persian  authorities.  The 
king,  entirely  unsolicited,  as  already  mentioned,  has  favored  us- 
with  an  excellent  firman,  encouraging,  protecting  and  patronizing 
us,  on  the  ground  of  our  baiefitting  his  subjects — Mohammedans 
as  well  as  Nestorians — by  giving  them  instruction.  Kahraman 
Meerza,  the  favorite  brother  of  the  king  and  prince-governor  of 
Azerbijan,  has  repeatedly  given  us  valuable  firmans,  and  has  mani- 
fested much  interest  in  our  tabors,  viewing  them  in  the  same  light 
in  which  they  are  contemplated  by  the  king.  And  Prince  Malek 
Kasem  Meerza,  the  favorite  uncle  of  the  king,  whose  name  has- 
been  so  repeatedly  mentioned,  has  long  been  urging  us  to  do  some- 
thing for  the  MCihammedang.  Thes6  rulers — the  kiag,  princes  and 
governors,  who  have  shown  such  an  interest  in  our  welfare,  would 
be  disappointed  and  lose  their  confidence  in  us,  if  not  withdraw 
their  protection,  were  we  to  continue  to  do  nothing  for  the  benefit 
of  their  Mussulman  subjects,  while  we  do  so  much  for  the  Nesto- 
rians. Tliey  would,  moreover,  be  likely  to  give  their  decided  pre- 
ference to  the  Papal  missionaries,  in  Persia,  who  are  zealous  in 


DEATH  OF  ELIAS  RESIGNATION. 


405 


teaching  all  classes, — a  preference  that  might  operate  very  disas- 
trously on  the  interests  of  our  mission,  particularly  as  these  same 
Papists  have  the  subjugation  of  the  Nestorians  to  the  Pope  as  their 
real  and  paraniount  object. 

The  members  of  our  Muhammedan  school  are  at  present  occu- 
pied in  the  study  of  the  English  language  ;  they  also  receive  daily 
instruction  in  geography,  through  the  medium  of  the  Turkish  and 
Persian  languages.  And  while  we  cannot  now  preach  the  gospel 
formally  to  them,  we  do  use  the  Bible  as  a  text-book ;  and  are  at 
full  liberty  to  explain  to  them  its  contents,  and  communicate  a 
great  amount  of  moral  and  religious,  as  well  as  intellectual  instruc- 
tion. 

Jan.  22.  I  called  on  priest  Dunka,  whose  brother — a  boy  of 
sixteen  and  a  member  of  our  seminary — is  sick  and  apparently  near 
his  end.  The  family  were  weeping  by  the  bed-side;  and  the  priest, 
while  he  wiped  the  tears  from  his  own  eyes,  touchingly  entreated 
them  "  not  to  weep,  but  give  glory  to  God."  He  was  calm,  and, 
though  melted  in  grief,  was  still  resigned.  "  How  is  Elia  (Elias)," 
I  inquired.  "  Elia  has  done  with  this  world,"  said  the  priest. 
"  Does  he  know  that  he  is  dying,"  I  further  inquired.  "  Yes,"  re- 
plied the  priest,  "  he  has  just  been  praying  and  committing  his  spi- 
rit to  the  Lord."  Elias  recognized  me;'  and  I  inquired  of  him 
whether  he  felt  himself  to  be  a  lost  sinner,  and  could  still  hope  in 
the  pardoning  mercy  of  Christ;  and  he  answered  me  in  a  broken, 
filtering  manner,  "in  the  strength  of  God,  I  do  hope  in  Christ." 
The  priest  told  me  that  he  had  conversed  much  with  him;  that 
Elias  said  he  had  no  worthiness  of  his  own  to  recommend  him,  but 
trusted  simply  in  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  and  confiding  in  Him,  he 
was  not  afraid  to  die.  He  was  too  far  gone  to  allow  him  to  con- 
verse much,  when  I  saw  him,  and  I  could  only  lift  my  heart  in 
prayer  to  God  for  his  salvation. 

The  priest's  appearance,  in  his  trying  circumstances,  was  deeply 
interesting.  He  solemnly  warned  his  family  and  others  who  were 
present,  to  be  "  also  ready,"  and  heed  the  voice  of  God  uttered 
from  the  scene  before  them.  There  was  in  this  case  nothing  of 
the  noisy,  frantic  raving,  that  is  so  often  witnessed  at  the  dying 
couch,  in  these  countries.  There  was  deep  grief,  but  with  it,  so- 
lemnity. I  never  felt  more  grateful  for  the  precious  hopes  and  con- 
solations of  the  gospel,  than  while  standing  at  that  death-bed,  and 
witnessing  their  sustaining  power  and  soothing  influence  on  the 
priest.    "Thanks  be  unto  God  for  his  unspeakable  gift-" 

Jan.  23.  Elias  died  between  12  and  1  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
This  forenoon,  we  attended  his  funeral.  The  Nestorians  aJw^ays 
bury  their  dead  as  speedily  as  practicable  after  decease.  A  large 
number  were  assembled  in  the  church-yard,  where  the  funeral  ser- 
vice was  read,  which  was  simple,  but  solemn  and  impressive.  One 
part  in  particular  was  very  affecting,  in  which  the  bishop  took  his 
stand  on  the  grave,  after  it  was  filled,  and  repeated,  "  Farewell,  my 


406      WEEPING  AT  THE  GRAVE  DEATH  OF  CHILDREN. 


brother ;  thou  hast  departed  from  this  to  the  other  world  ;  thou 
shalt  suffer  no  harm  nor  loss;  Christ  will  raise  thee  up  at  the  re- 
surrection !" 

After  the  funeral,  priest  Abraham,  on  my  making  some  inquiries, 
relative  to  their  funeral  service,  proposed  that  we  should  translate 
it  into  the  vernacular  language,  for  the  benefit  of  the  people.  The 
suggestion  is  a  good  one,  though  parts  of  it  would  need  to  be  omit- 
ted, as  it  embraces  prayers  for  the  repose  of  the  dead,  to  be  recited 
at  the  grave  three  days  after  interment.  That  period  is  observed, 
in  memory  of  the  visitation  of  the  Saviour's  tomb  on  the  third  day, 
by  the  pious  women.  On  the  seventh  day  after  burial,  the  relatives 
of  the  deceased  receive  visits,  and  the  males  shave  their  heads  and 
all  wash  and  change  their  garments,  as  an  emblem  of  the  seventh 
period  which  is  to  be  ushered  in  and  gladdened  by  millennial  rejoic- 
ings. For  all  their  religious  observances,  the  Nestorians  can  as- 
sign reasons,  though  many  of  them  are  singularly  puerile. 

"Going  to  the  grave  and  weeping  there,"  is  even  more  common 
among  the  Muhammedans  than  among  the  native  Christians,  espe- 
cially among  the  females.  The  great  cemeteries  around  the  city 
of  Oroomiah  are  thronged,  on  some  of  their  festival  days,  and  more 
or  less  on  other  occasions,  and  present  affecting  scenes,  not  less  in 
the  thoughtless  levity  of  the  mass,  than  the  dolorous  lamentations  of 
the  few.  I  have  frequently  observed  a  circle  of  women,  sitting  on 
the  ground,  around  a  grave,  in  a  cold  winter's  day,  and  wailing 
most  piteously  over  the  dust  of  a  departed  friend. 

Jan.  25.  Priest  Dunka  called  on  us,  for  the  first  time,  after  the 
death  of  his  brother.  When  *I  expressed  to  him  our  sympathy, 
"Do  not  feel  afflicted,"  said  he,  "the  Lord  has  taken  EHa  to  him- 
self; let  his  will  be  done, — let  us  praise  his  holy  name."  He  pro- 
ceeded to  state  that  he  felt  comforted  under  his  affliction,  with  the 
consolations  of  the  gospel.  He  quoted  several  very  pertinent  pas- 
sages of  Scripture,  and  his  whole  appearance  was  that  of  an  afflicted 
mourner,  sustained  by  the  grace  of  God  and  resigned  to  his  will. 
I  have  never  felt  so  much  confidence  in  priest  Dunka's  piety,  as 
since  observing  the  manner  in  which  he  has  met  this  trying  be- 
reavement. 

Feb.  2.  I  have  just  preached  the'funerai  sermon  of  four  infant 
children,  who  have  died  within  the  last  three  weeks  and  three  of 
them,  within  (he  last  six  days.  They  were  the  twin  daughters  of 
the  late  Mrs.  Grant;  the  daughter  and  only  child  of  Mr.  HoUaday; 
and  the  son  and  only  child  of  Mr.  Slocking.  The  providence  is 
striking  that  has  transf^red  that  infant  band  of  five,  so  near  each 
other  in  birth,  in  so  short  a  period,  to  their  eternal  home.  There, 
we  trust,  they  are  re-united  and  compose  a  far  more  happy  and  in- 
tereiting  choir,  chanting  the  praises  of  Him  who  said,  '  Suffer  little 
children  to  come  unto  me  for  of  such  is  the  kingdom  of  heaven,'  than 
they  could  ever  have  become  in  thi«  world  of  sin  and  vale  of  tears. 


DEATH  OF  WM.  RIACH  CONDOLENCE. 


407 


All  but  one  of  the  four  who  have  recently  died,  were  removed  by 
measles  or  diseases  induced  by  it, — that  one  died  of  general  debility. 

Feb.  7.  William  Riach,  our  only  surviving  child,  died  this  niorn- 
in2, — the  fifth  death,  iu  our  mission,  in  the  course  of  a  month  ! 
Within  that  period,  every  parental  heart  in  our  circle  has  been 
wrung  with  the  anguish  of  parting  with  a  child, — in  one  case,  of 
parting  with  two,  and  in  the  other  cases,  with  only  children.  Our 
houses  are  now  left  uuto  us  desolate,  and  our  hearts  in  like  manner, 
except  as  they  are  cheered  by  the  consolations  of  the  gospel,  which 
indeed  are  neither  few  nor  small.  William  is  the  third  cliild  of 
whom  we  have  been  bereaved  in  Persia.  He  was  almost  four  years 
old.  For  the  last  few  months,  he  has  to  appearance  been  perfectly 
well,  and  was  improving  in  a  very  rapid  manner,  when  seized  by 
the  measles  of  which  he  died.  The  trial  of  parting  with  this  child 
is  more  severe  than  our  previous  bereavements,  in  proportion  as  he 
was  older  than  the  others,  as  well  as  from  the  fact  that  he  was  our 
only  child.  We  would  bow  submissively  under  the  heavy  stroke, 
knowing  that  the  rod  is^in  our  Father's  hand. 

Our  Nestorian  priests  called,  to-day,  to  condole  with  us.  They 
deeply  feel  for  us  in  our  affliction,  and  it  is  not  a  little  soothing  to 
witness  and  enjoy  their  sympathy,  and  especially,  to  listen  to  the 
healing  solaces  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  pertinently  and  tenderly  ad- 
ministered to  us  by  Nestorian  Christians.  I  happened  to  be  sitting 
with  a  Bible  iu  my  hand,  when  the  priests  came  in.  "From  that 
book  draw  consolation,"  said  priest  Dunka,  and  he  then  proceeded 
to  repeat  several  passages.  Mar  Joseph  called  also  to  condole  with 
us.  He  was  equally  pertinent  and  touching,  in  his  efforts  to  admin- 
ister consolation.  Among  other  things,  he  remarked,  "  True,  it 
was  your  only  son  and  child  ;  but  that,  too,  was  God^s  only  Son,  with 
whom  the  everlasting  Father  parted,  that  he  might  come  into  this 
world  and  die  for  us."  What  more  could  have  been  said  to  silence 
the  repinings  of  a  bereaved  parent .'  The  Nestorians  are  often  thus 
vivid,  graphic  and  impressive  in  their  expressions,  particularly  on 
religious  subjects. 

Feb.  15.  Mar  Gabriel  came  to  tender  to  us  his  sympathy  in  our 
affliction,  accompanied  by  deacon  Badel,  a  teacher  in  our  female 
boarding-school.  This  deacon  has  just  been  bereaved  of  an  infant 
son;  and  with  him,  we  reciprocated  expressions  of  sympathy. 
Nothing  short  of  the  special  working  of  the  Holy  Spirit  can  lay 
open  the  heart  to  religious  influence,  like  affliction.  Deacon  Badel 
was  very  serious  and  tender  in  his  feelings  on  this  occasion.  His 
wife,  he  said,  does  nothing  but  weep.  I  suggested  that  he  should 
read  to  her  the  gospel,  particularly  those  portions,  which  give  ac- 
count of  the  Saviour's  deep  interest  in  little  children.  "I  do  read 
the  Bible  to  her,"  said  he,  "  but  she  still  weeps."  I  reminded  him 
of  the  declaration  of  Christ,  that  where  our  treasures  are,  there  will 
our  hearts  be  also;  and  suggested,  that  the  Lord  is  perhaps  taking 
our  treasures,  (our  little  children,)  to  himself,  that  he<  may  draw 


408 


MORTALITY  CAUSES  LONGEVITY. 


our  hearts  after  them.  "  What  a  precious  thought,"  exclaimed  the 
deacon ;  "I  will  repeat  that  in  our  church  to  our  people,  that  the 
mourners  may  be  comforted  in  their  bereavements  and  benefitted 
by  them." 

A  much  larger  proportion  of  children,  die  in  infancy,  in  a  given 
population  among  all  classes  in  Persia,  than  in  America.  Births 
are  far  more  numerous,  but  much  fewer  survive  to  adult  years,  in 
the  former  country  than  in  the  latter.  Deacon  Badel,  for  instance, 
who  is  perhaps  thirty  years  old,  has  been  the  father  of  nine  children, 
only  three  of  whom  are  living ;  and  priest  Abraham,  who  is  hardly 
as  old,  has  been  the  father  of  seven,  but  two  of  whom  are  now  alive; 
and  these  are  by  no  means  rare  instances — perhaps  not  unusual — of 
the  mortality  of  children  among  the  Nestorians.  It  is  difficult  to 
explain  the  cause  of  such  mortality.  It  may  result  in  part  from  the 
sickliness  of  the  children  consequent  on  the  very  early  marriages  of 
the  parents.  Want  of  cleanliness  and  proper  attention  and  care  are 
other  probable  causes,  though  the  Nestorians  are  very  fond  of  their 
children  and  cannot  properly  be  charged  with  wanton  neglect  of 
them.  We  might  also  assign  the  absence  of  proper  medical  treat- 
ment, as  another  cause ;  but  Our  own  children  have  been  swept 
away,  though  a  physician  is  among  us.  And  the  unhealthiness  of  the 
climate,  I  am  inclined  to  think,  may  be  the  principal  difficulty  with 
the  native  children  as  well  as  our  own.  The  general  average  of 
longevity  is  from  ten  to  fifteen  years  less  in  Persia  than  in  America, 
though  the  Persians  arrive  at  maturity,  also,  at  a  much  earlier  age 
than  Americans. 

This  evening,  I  conversed  with  John  and  priest  Abraham,  on  the 
importance  of  habitual  preparation  for  death,  in  view  of  the  solemn 
dispensations  of  Providence  by  which  we  have  of  late  been  so  re- 
peatedly and  loudly  admonished,  as  well  as  by  the  warnings  of  the 
word,  of  God,  which  we  have  always  in  our  hands.  Both  appeared 
deeply  solemn.  John  said  that  he  often  felt  afraid  to  go  to  sleep  at 
night,  lest  he  should  awake  in  eternity  and  in  the  world  of  wo. 
The  priest  expressed  a  hope  of  being  pardoned  through  the  merits 
of  Christ  and  washed  in  his  blood.  In  view  of  his  remaining  de- 
pravity, he  said,  he  hoped  with  much  distrust  and  trembling,  but  it 
was  his  unceasing  prayer,  that  God  would  prepare  him  to  live  to  his 
glory  and  die  in  peace.  The  external  conduct  of  this  priest  is  habit- 
ually unexceptionable.  His  character  is  naturally  amiable,  his  de- 
portment serious  and  his  conscience  apparently  quite  tender.  His 
efforts  for  the  improvement  and  salvation  of  his  family  and  people 
are  also  very  interesting.  He  has  recently  introduced  family  wor- 
ship into  his  own  household, — perhaps  a  solitary  instance  of  the 
kind,  among  the  Nestorians ;  and  he  is  indefatigable,  though  very 
discreet,  in  his  labors  for  their  instruction  and  reformation. 

Feb.  18.  The  wife  of  priest  Dunka  died  last  evening.  She  was 
his  second  wife,  to  whom  he  had  been  married  but  a  few  months. 
The  Lord  has  of  late  laid  his  hand  heavily  upon  this  priest.  His 


DEATH  AND  BURIAL  OF  PRIEST  DUNICa's  WIFE.  409 


wife  was  a  superior  woman  for  a  native,  and  the  priest  was  devotedly 
attached  to  her.  The  poignancy  of  liis  grief  is  much  sharpened, 
from  the  fact,  that  he  had  taken  her  frona  her  father's  house  among 
the  healthy  Koordish  mountains  and  brought  her  to  this  sickly  land 
of  strangers,  where  she  has  thus  quiclily  died.  His  heart  seemed  al- 
most broken,  when  I  called  on  him  ;  he,  however,  reiterated,  in 
faltering  tones,  "  The  Lord  gave  and  the  Lord  hath  taken  away ; 
blessed  be  the  name  of  the  Lord."  We  attended  the  burial,  about 
9  o'clock  in  the  forenoon.  The  Nestorian  funerals,  as  L  have  be- 
fore stated,  are  characterized  by  much  decorum.  Their  coflins 
are  plain  boxes,  diminishing  gradually  in  width  from  the  head  to 
the  foot.  The  relatives  of  the  deceased  are  sometimes  too  poor  to 
provide  any,  in  that  land  where  timber  is  scarce.  The  grave  is 
from  four  to  five  feet  deep,*  at  the  bottom  of  which  an  enclosure, 
just  large  enough  to  admit  the  corpse,  is  waJled  around  with  stone. 
The  coffin  is  placed  within  this  enclosure,  flat  stones  laid  over  it, 
the  crevices  plastered  with  mortar,  and  the  grave  is  then  filled  up 
with  earth.  Every  grave  is  thus  a  small  tomb.  The  cor[)se  is  let 
down  into  its  narrow  house  by  means  of  sashes,  which  individuals 
take  from  their  persons  on  the  spot.  They  have  prayers  recited 
at  the  house,  on  their  way  to  the  cemetery  whither  the  corpse 
is  borne  upon  shoulders  on  a  bier,  at  the  grave",  and  at  the  house 
again  on  their  return.  The  services  at  the  grave,  on  the  occasion 
of  interment,  are  interesting  and  not  tediously  long.  To-day,  while 
the  sexton  and  others  were  preparing  the  grave,  which  was  not 
quite  ready  when  the  corpse  arrived,  priest  Dunka  translated  from 
a  book  containing  their  funeral  services,  (Oneeda,)  into  the  modern 
languaore.  The  matter  was  in  general  excellent,  and  the  language 
and  figures  were  very  vivid  and  often  striking.  Among  others  were 
the  following.  '  Death  is  a  cup  of  which  all  must  taste.  The  Sa- 
viour said,  if  it  be  possible,  let  this  cup  pass  from  me;  yet  thy  will 
be  done.  He  tasted  it  and  took  from  it  the  poignancy  of  its  bitter- 
ness. Let  us,  too,  say,  when  this  bitter  cup  is  presented  to  us  in 
the  removal  of  dear  friends,  Thy  will,  O  Lord,  be  done.  Adam, 
where  is  he?  He  tasted  this  cup!  Abel,  the  righteous,  where  is 
he?  He  also  tasted  this  cup.'  And  thus  he  went  through  with 
most  of  the  patriarchs,  apostles  and  worthies  of  the  Bible,  in  the 
same  primitive  style  in  which  Peter  enumerated  them  on  the  day  of 
Pentecost — Stephen,  in  his  vindication — and  Paul,  in  adducing  ex- 
amples of  eminent  faith,  in  his  epistle  to  the  Hebrews.  They  had 
all  tasted  this  cup ;  so  had  proud  kings  and  nobles.  'And  where 
are  they  now?'  he  repeatedly  interrogated  ;  'This  grave  furnishes 
the  answer.' 

Death  was  also  styled  a  bridge,  over  which  all  must  pass.  And 

*  I  wa3  gratified  to  observe  this  dtptJi-.  The  practice  of  burying  only  a 
foot  or  two  feet  beJow  the  eurface,  so  co.Tirnon  in  the  vast  cemeteries  of  Con- 
stantinople and  ia  other  parts  of  Turkey,  loay  \jo  a.  more  prolific  source  of 
the  plague  than  is  generally  suppose*!. 

52 


410 


FUNERAL  SEEVICE  RELIGIOUS  FEELING. 


this  figure  was  expanded  in  the  same  manner  as  the  above.  And  I 
was  particularly  interested  to  hear  it  asserted  and  insisted  on,  that 
we  must  repent  and  receive  Christ,  6c/bre  crossing  that  bridge; 
that  there  is  no  repentance  which  will  avail  us  beyond  it, — and  de- 
lay to  repent  is  indescribably  perilous.  This  last  was  perhaps  in  a 
measure  extemporaneous.  It  is  at  least  strange  how  prayers  for 
the  repose  of  the  chad,  three  days  after  interment,  can  find  a  place 
among  such  discriminating  declarations;  though  glaring  inconsis- 
tencies, we  know,  do  often  occur  in  human  standards,  modern  as 
well  as  ancient.    Not  so  with  the  sure  word  of  Prophecy. 

'Again,'  (continued  the  service,)  'the  earth,  at  the  resurrec- 
tion— for  the  dead  will  rise  when  Christ  shall  come  in  his  chariot 
to  the  judgment — then  the  earth,  the  common  mother  of  all  flesh, 
from  whose  womb  all  spring  and  to  whose  womb  all  must  return, 
at  death,  will  present  all — the  graves  opening — upon  her  ample 
bosom,  to  the  Redeemer  and  Judge,  who  will  select  from  among 
them  the  righteous  and  gather  them  to  his  kingdom,  and  hurl  the 
wicked  to  their  own  place,  in  the  bottomless  pit  of  perdition.' 

The  above  similes,  of  which  I  give  but  a  meagre  skeleton,  were 
interspersed  with  many  very  practical  and  pertinent  remarks  and  ex- 
hortations, and  I  felt  constrained  to  bless  God,  that  so  much  reli- 
gious truth  was  pr^entcd  to  so  many  minds,  in  those  solemn  cir- 
cumstances ; — and  the  suggestion  of  priest  Abraham,  that  we  trans- 
late their  funeral  services,  or  portions  of  them,  struck  me  more  than 
ever  as  important.  Seldom  do  the  people  hear  these  services,  or 
any  part  of  them,  in  a  language  they  understand. 

Priest  Dunka  was  calm  at  the  grave,  but  evidently  quite  bowed 
down.  I  told  him,  that  it  seemed  the  Lord  desired  to  have  his 
tohoU  heart,  and  is  therefore  taking  from  him  his  dearest  eartlily 
treasures,  to  draw  his  undivided  affections  up  to  himself.  "It  is 
just  .so,"  said  the  priest;  "and  the  spirit  indeed  is  willing  but  the 
flesh  is  weak." 

March2.  Priests  Abraham  and  Dunka  are  in  an  exceedingly 
interesting  state  of  mind — not  far  from  the  kingdom  of  heaven,  and 
I  cannot  help  hoping,  that  they  are  really  living  members  of  that 
kingdom.  They  are  also  deeply  sensible  of  the  spiritual  degradation 
oi  their  people  and  mourn  over  it.  '  There  is  little,  if  any,  love  of 
God  among  our  people,'  said  priest  Dunka  to-day ;  '  and  all  their 
prayers  and  their  fasts  are  in  vain.  Love,'  (charity,)  he  continued, 
'  as  Paul  says,  is  the  chief  thing;  and  without  this,  all  external  ob- 
servances are  nothing.'  True,  I  replied  ;  and  does  not  this  want 
of  the  love  of  God  among  your  people  distress  you  I  'Yes,'  they 
both  answered  ;  '  we  weep  over  it,  as  well  as  over  our  own  sins; 
but  what  can  we  do?'  You  can  proy,  I  replied.  '  Ah,  there  is 
our  hope,'  said  priest  Dunka;  '  as  Isaiah  has  said,  "behold,  the 
Lord's  hand  is  not  shortened,  that  it  cannot  save,  neither  his  ear 
heavy,  that  it  cannot  hear  ;  but  your  iniquities  have  separated  be- 
tween you  and  your  God  and  your  sins  have  hid  his  face  from  you." 


PRIEST  Abraham's  letters. 


411 


This  is  just  the  case  with  us  and  our  people.'  Some  of  the  other 
influential  ecclesiastics,  who  are  under  our  influence,  manifest  a  sim- 
ilar state  of  feeling ;  and  their  efforts  to  instruct  their  people  in  the 
word  of  God  and  warn  them  of  the  danger  of  their  condition  cor- 
respond also,  in  a  good  degree,  with  Such  feelings. 

These  interesting  men  have  continued  to  improve,  in  intelligence, 
character  and  promise,  to  the  present  time.  One  of  the  most  plea- 
sant circumstances,  attending  my  visit  in  America,  has  been  the  fre- 
quent reception  of  fraternal  letters  from  them.  1  will  in  this  con- 
nexion insert  extracts  from  one  or  two  such  letters  from  priests 
Abraham  and  Dunka,  whose  names  are  somewhat  familiar  to  Amer- 
ican Christians,  which  will  impart  to  the  reader  an  idea  of  their  re- 
ligious feelings,  and  their  interest  in  our  missionary  work.  Figures 
and  flowers  must  be  excused  in  them,  as  among  the  last  things,  in 
orientals,  of  which  instruction,  and  grace  even,  can  ever  divest  them. 

The  following  is  from  priest  Abraham,  written  after  the  reception 
of  a  letter  which  I  addressed  to  him  from  Constantinople. 

*'  At  Oroomiak,  in  the  month  of  Kdnoon  the  first,  of  the  Ncstorians ; 
the  5th  day  in  it — on  Friday ;  1841.  In  the  month  of  the  En- 
glish, Dec.  17  th. 

O  my  brother,  dear  and  beloved,  the  light  of  my  eyes  and  the  joy 
of  my  heart,  Mr.  Perkins  : 

Know  thou  that  your  letters  came  on  Friday  night,  and  reached 
the  hands  of  all  the  gentlemen  and  ladies,  jour  brethren  and  sisters 
in  Christ;  also,  the  hand  of  thy  servant,  priest  Abraham. 

O  my  beloved  friend,  at  that  time,  when  your  letter  came  to  me, 
with  great  joy  did  I  receive  it  from  the  hand  of  Mr.  Holladay,  after 
worship  at  the  meeting  of  Friday  evening.  Afterward  I  went  to 
my  house,  with  haste,  and  opened  your  letter  and  read;  some  of  it 
1  understood,*  and  some,  not;  but  the  next  morning,  I  brought  it 
and  orave  it  to  Mr.  Breath,  who  read  it  and  caused  me  to  understand 

"  -  .... 

the  whole.  Greatly  did  I  rejoice;  may  God  rejoice  you  in  his  holy 
kingdom.  So  much  did  I  desire,  and  so  much  did  T  long  for  that 
letter  of  yours,  that  answer  to  mine,  as  the  earth,  thirsty,  dried  up 
and  parched,  in  the  heat  of  summer,  desires  water ;  yes,  thus  did  1 
thirst  and  long  for  a  token  of  your  love.  Wherefore  ?  Because  you 
are  ray  teacher  and  instructor  in  the  holy  books.  For  before,  very, 
i}ery,  small  was  I,  in  learning  and  reading  ;  but  now,  hy  the  grace 
of  God,  and  your  kindness,  1  know  a  little  more  ;  as  I  have  learned 
from  your  mouth  and  your  preaching. 

Now  we  pray  and  beseech  in  our  supplications,  that  God  would 
prosper  you,  and  give  you  happy  times,  and  long  years,  as  Joseph 
in  the  land  of  Egypt,  and  as  Jeconiah  and  his  companions,  in  the 
land  of  Babel ;  thus  do  we  pray,  .that  you  may  be  delivered  from  the 
trials  of  the  way  and  from  the  terrors  of  the  sea ;  and  from  all  diffi- 
culties that  may  befal  you. 


*  My  letter  "was  in  English,  which  priest  Abraham  imperfectly  understands. 


412 


PRIEST  Abraham's  letters. 


Would  you  know,  (as  you  said,  write  me  about  everything,  that  I 
may  know,)  the  health  of  all  the  gentlemen  and  ladies,  and  of 
their  little  ones,  is  very  good ;  also,  of  all  the  men  connected  with 
you,  the  bishops,  priests  and  deacons  and  of  all  the  scholars,  small 
and  great,  who  pray  and  beseech  that  you  may  again  come  hither, 
that  they  may  hear  (he  voice  of  your  preaching,  which  is  as  sharp 
as  a  two-edged  sword. 

If  you  would  inquire,  the  schools,  in  all  the  places  and  all  the 
viil  ages,  are  doing  well.  Also,  the  preaching  on  the  Sabbath  is  as 
before,  when  you  were  here." 

The  following  is  also  from  priest  Abraham,  written  after  he  had 
received  intelligence  of  our  arrival  in  America. 

"O  my  brethren  in  Christ,  Mr.  Perkins  and  Mar  Yohannan,  and 
Mrs.  Charlotte  and  Judith,  dear  and  beloved  ;  your  letter  has  come 
which  you  wrote  in  the  month  of  Ishwat  (Feb.),  on  the  27th  day. 
Behold,  it  came  and  reached  us,  in  the  month  of  May,  the  24th,  on 
Sabbath  day,  in  the  afternoon.  "When  it  arrived,  very  great  was 
our  joy ;  greatly,  very  greatly,  did  we  joy  and  rejoice, — like  as  a  man 
in  prison,  when  he  is  let  out ;  like  a  man  who  goes  forth  from  with- 
in a  ship  of  the  ocean,  from  the  troubles  in  the  midst  of  the  mighty 
waves;  as  a  man  who  is  rescued  from  death  ;  and  as  a  woman  de- 
livered from  the  anguish  of  child-birth.  Thus  did  we  joy  and  re- 
joicft,  on  your  account,  that  you  had  been  delivered  from  all  the 
trials  of  the  deep.  So  also  the  ship  of  our  thoughts  was  shaken 
and  driven,  by  our  fear  on  your  account;  now,  our  ship  too  is 
peaceful  and  at  rest. 

Again ;  very  greatly  did  we  rejoice  on  account  of  what  Mar 
Yohannan  wrote, — that  there  are  such  Christians  in  America  as 
are  not  in  all  the  world  besides;  who  fear  God  and  keep  his  com- 
mandments; and  assemble  on  the  Sabbath  day  in  their  churches. 
Moreover,  he  wrote  that  they  are  true  Christians,  complete  in 
Christ;  renouncing  this  world  with  all  its  objects,  and  loving  the 
world  to  come;  he  wrote  that  there  is  among  them  no  deceit,  no 
lying,  no  envy,  no  strife,  no  division,  no  war,  no  hatred,  no  wrath, 
no  reviling,  nor  inteinperance,  nor  any  works  of  the  flesh  ;  but  in- 
stead of  these,  that  there  are  things  spiritual  among  them, — love, 
mercy,  and  all  such  like  graces.  He  wrote  also,  that  Christians, 
three  or  four  thousand  together,  assemble  in  churches,  and  pray 
and  weep,  and  beseech  that  the  kingdom  of  God  may  come,  and  his 
will  be  done  in  all  the  world;  and  that  Iho.y  weep  and  implore  mer- 
cy for  our  nation,  who  are  fallen  in  the  midst  of  the  heathen — the 
Ishmaelites;  i.  e.  the  wild  asses  of  the  desert.  O  my  Christian 
brethren,  true  and  faithful,  we  know  that  your  love  is  great  towards 
us.  We  are  fallen  down  upon  the  side,  as  a  man  without  any 
strength;  we  are  like  sheep  without  a  shepherd;  we  are  scattered 
and  strayed ;  and  we  are  torn  and  choked  by  the  wolves  of  night, 


PRIEST  DUNKa's  letters. 


413 


all  our  nation  and  people,  with  the  exception  of  a  very  few.  But 
you,  Americans,  by  the  great  love  whicli  you  cherish  towards  us, 
have  taken  us  by  the  hand,  and  desire  that  you  may  lift  us  up  from 
our  fall.  May  God  assist  you.  This  is  of  the  grace  of  God.  We, 
however,  are  without  understanding.  Our  heart  is  hard  as  the 
flinty  rock,  and  we  are  ungrateful.  For  destruction  is  upon  us 
from  the  rulers  and  oppressors,  who  are  over  us ;  also  because  we 
have  not  knowledge  nor  wisdom  ;  and  we  are  ignorant  and  not 
acquainted  with  the  Scriptures;  moreover,  because  we  are  the 
children  of  this  world.  We  are  Christians  in  name,  but  not  in 
works;  for  our  works  are  of  this  world.  But  continue  ye  to  be- 
seech, that  mercy  from  God  may  rest  upon  us,  with  all  your  voice 
[fervently],  and  He  will  hear  and  grant  mercy  unto  us,  that  we 
may  not  remain  in  the  gall  of  bitterness  and  in  the  bond  of  iniquity. 
Acts  8:  23. 

Furthermore,  the  peace  of  God  and  the  grace  of  our  Lord,  from 
the  mouth  of  Mar  Joseph,  of  Mar  Elias,  of  the  deacons  of  the  semi- 
nary, and  all  the  scholars;  and  from  the  mouth  of  all  your  friends 
and  brethren  in  Christ ;  and  from  pilgrim  Hermas,  your  servant ; 
from  Melik  Yeeshoo;  from  all  the  people  of  Geog-tapa,  small  and 
great;  and  from  me,  priest  Abraham,  a  sinner,  unworthy  and  de- 
filed, sunken  and  full  of  iniquity.  And  from  the  mouth  of  all  my 
household,  your  servants  and  your  hand-maidens;  and  from  Es- 
mah,  to  Mrs.  Charlotte.  And  kiss  little  Judith,  on  my  account. 
Again,  salutation  to  your  friends  and  your  brethren. 

Further ;  we  would  inquire  about  your  health,  our  brother  beloved, 
Mr.  Perkins;  and  dear  Mar  Yohannan,  the  light  of  our  eyes  and 
chief  of  our  shepherds;  and  Mrs.  Charlotte,  our  beloved  sister  in 
Christ;  and  little  Judith.  Salutation  to  all  your  christian  friends 
in  America.  May  grace,  mercy  and  peace  be  with  you  all.  If  you 
ask  about  us,  thanks  to  God,  by  the  grace  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ 
our  Saviour,  our  health  is  very  good  at  this  time.  We  beseech  of 
God,  that  your  health  maybe  good;  that  He  would  deliver  you 
from  every  trial  and  difficulty,  as  he  has  delivered  you  from  the 
troubles  of  the  way  and  from  the  raging  billows  of  the  sea,  by  his 
mighty  hand  and  his  outstretched  arm.  Thus  do  we  pray  and  be- 
seech of  God,  that  he  would  deliver  you  from  all  difficulties,  and 
hasten  you  back  unto  us,  that  we  may  see  your  beloved  faces." 

The  following  extracts  are  from  priest  Dunka. 

"  Mr.  Holladay  and  I,  unworthy  priest  Dunka,  have  translated 
and  prepared  one  book,  on  the  keeping  of  the  Sabbath  day,  that 
men  may  observe  it  well.  All  this  bo<jk,  whicJi  consists  of  witnesses 
[references],  we  have  collected  from  the  Pentateuch,  and  the  Pro- 
phets and  tne  New  Testament;  also  from  the  other  books  of  the 
Bible.  And  when  Mr.  Holladay  preached  and  read  that  little  book 
in  the  seminary,  the  priests  and  deacons  and  scholars  were  filled 


414 


LETTER  MAR  SLEEVA  IGNORANCE. 


with  astonishment,  on  account  of  that  book;  and  greatly  did  they 
glorify'  [give  thanks  to]  God.  And  now,  we  are  trant-lating  another 
book,  which  Mr.  Dwight  sent,  from  Constantinople,  on  the  subject 
of  the  Catholicii.  It  is  a  very  fine  book  and  mighty  against  the 
Catholics." 

The  following,  of  a  later  date,  is  also  from  priest  Dunka. 

"In  the  name  of  God : 
My  brother  in  Christ — beloved  in  God  and  dear  in  the  commu- 
nion of  the  Holy  Spirit,  Mr.  Perkins.  Know  that,  from  the  day  of 
your  departure  until  now,  I  have  written  you  six  letters  and  sent 
them  to  you ;  this  is  the  sixth ;  and  not  one  letter  from  you  has 
come  for  me,  that  I  might  see  it  and  rejoice  over  it.  As  a  man 
thirsting  to  drink  a  cup  of  cold  water,  so  is  it,  Mr.  P.,  that  I  long  to 
see  a  letter  from  you  and  for  the  joy  of  it.  For  four  months  I  have 
not  written  ;  for  we  heard  nothing  about  you,  in  any  place ;  O  my 
beloved  brother,  after  that,  we  and  the  gentlemen  and  ladies,  were 
greatly,  greatly  sorrowful  and  distressed.  We  prayed,  and  suppli- 
cated, and  besought  of  God  the  Father,  and  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ 
the  Preserver  of  his  servants,  and  He  hath  caused  you  to  reach 
your  destination  in  mercy  and  peace;  as  said  his  prophet  David, 
I  have  been  young  and  now  am  I  old  ;  yet  have  I  not  seen  the  right- 
eous forsaken;  and  again  he  saith.  The  Lord  is  nigh  unto  them 
who  call  upon  iiim  with  a  contrite  heart ;  a  broken  and  contrite 
heart,  God  will  not  despise;  and  again,  Blessed  is  that  man  whose 
helper  Thou  art.  And  again,  Isaiah  said,  Blessed  is  the  man  who  put- 
teth  his  trust  in  God,  and  not  in  a  son  of  flesh.  And  again,  How 
beautiful  are  the  feet  of  him  that  publisheth  peace,  i.  e.  the  gospel. 
Christ  also  said,  Go  into  all  the  world  and  preach  the  gospel.  And, 
Behold,  I  give  you  power  to  tread  on  serpents  and  scorpions,  and 
over  all  the  power  of  the  enemy,  and  nothing  shall  by  any  means 
harm  you.  Because  it  is  so,  my  dear  brother,  our  hope  was  strong 
in  God  and  our  faith  in  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  that  He  would  bring 
you  out  of  distress  and  deliver  you  ;  and  now  your  letter  came,  on 
the  9th  of  Neesan  [April],  and  reached  the  gentlemen,  and  we, 
bishops  and  priests,  came  together  with  the  gentlemen,  and  listened 
to  the  news  of  your  arrival.  May  God  rejoice  your  heart  as  we  then 
rejoiced. 

Excuse  this  poor  letter ;  for  I  have  written  in  great  haste.  Amen." 

March  3.  Received  a  visit  from  Mar  Sleeva,  the  bishop  of  Gar- 
var.  He  is  a  sprightly,  fine  looking  man,  but  though  a  bishop,  is 
unable  to  read,  except  to  repeat  his  prayers,  in  the  ancient  Syriac, 
while  ignorant  of  the  meaning.  I  expressed  my  regret  to  priest 
Dunka,  that  any  of  the  bishops  should  be  found  so  deficient.  "  We 
have  worse  bishops  than  Mar  Sleeva  among  the  mountains,"  said  the 
priest, — meaning  that  there  are  those  who  are  still  more  ignorant. 


nuNKA  A  NTS rojiiAs  I'RU-Sr  rhuu  THi  xnuMArNs 


PRIEST  DUNKa's  education. 


415 


He  stated  that  he  had  often  urged  Mar  Sleeva  still  to  apply  himself 
and  learn  to  read,  and  had  done  this  last  evening ;  but  the  good 
bishop  had  always  a  score  of  pious  excuses  at  hand  for  not  doing 
so, — that  his  care  of  his  flock,  who  are  often  over-run  by  the  Koords, 
did  not  allow  him  the  necessary  time,  etc.  Indolence,  however,  said 
the  priest,  is  the  greatest  obstacle. 

From  our  conversation  in  relation  to  Mar  Sleeva,  priest  Dunka 
took  occasion  to  notice  the  general  difficulty  of  securing  opportuni- 
ties to  learn  to  read,  in  the  precarious  condition  of  the  mountain 
Nestorians.  And  to  illustrate  the  subject,  he  gave  me  the  history 
of  his  own  case.  His  father  was  not  a  reader,  but  his  uncle  who 
was  a  priest,  could  read,  and  taught  him  his  letters,  when  he  was  a 
very  small  boy.  His  father  was  not  pleased  with  his  desire  to  learn, 
told  him  that  he  must  become  a  shepherd, — that  they  must  work  to 
lay  up  something  against  an  evil  day,  in  order  that,  when  suddenly 
taken  captive  by  the  Koords,  they  might  have  the  means  to  purchase 
their  ransom.  With  such  feelings,  his  father  was  always  offended 
if  he  saw  the  boy  with  his  psalter  in  his  hand,  would  take  it  roughly 
from  him,  box  his  ears  and  tell  him  to  go  after  the  flock.  In  his 
ardent  desire  to  learn,  however,  young  Dunka  could  not  abandun 
the  undertaking,  and  conceived  the  idea  of  studying  by  himself,  as 
he  watched  the  sheep.  He  accordingly  used  to  take  his  psalter  un- 
der the  skirt  of  his  coat,  day  after  day,  and  when  fairly  out  of  sight, 
studied  it,  while  keeping  the  flock,  until  he  committed  the  whole 
book  of  Psalms  to  memory,  and  learned  to  spell  all  the  words.  With 
such  a  foundation,  he  continued  to  improve  all  his  opportunities, 
until  he  became,  in  the  Nestorian  sense,  well  educated,  and  was  or- 
dained as  a  priest.  His  case  is  a  very  instructive  one.  Under  all 
but  insurmountable  obstacles — a  poor  shepherd's  boy  in  the  wild 
mountains  of  Koordistan,  trembling  under  apprehension  of  his  fa- 
ther's displeasure,  as  well  as  in  constant  fear  from  surrounding  sa- 
vages, he  had  still  sufficient  enterprize  to  carry  him  forward,  until 
he  is  justly  considered  one  of  the  best  educated  and  most  worthy 
ecclesiastics  among  the  Nestorians.  Is  not  priest  Dunka  worthy  of 
a  record  among  self-tnught  men?  We  trust,  at  least,  that  the  Lord 
has  chosen  him  to  do  a  great  work,  in  aiding  to  enlighten  and  re- 
form his  people.  We  have  much  reason  gratefully  to  recognize 
the  hand  of  Providence,  in  leading  him,  unsought,  into  our  employ 
and  under  our  influence;  and  the  same  is  true  in  relation  to  other 
influential  individuals,  who  have  lung  resided  with  us.  We  never 
searched  for  them ;  Providence  cast  them  upon  our  hands. 

This  evening,  Mar  Sleeva  and  a  few  others  took  tea  with  us. 
Priest  Dunka  read  to  the  bishop  his  favorite  chapter — the  59th  of 
Isaiah — "  The  Lord's  hand  is  not  shortened,"  etc. ;  and  endeavored 
to  impress  him  with  its  appropriate  application  to  their  people.  But 
the  ignorant  bishop  seemed  slow  enough  to  catch  a  spark  of  the 
flame,  that  evidently  glowed  in  the  priest's  bosom.  Mar  Sleeva  was 
much  more  interested  in  giving  us  an  account  of  a  man  of  his  flock, 


416 


AN  ADTENTURER  GARVAR  STORK. 


who,  many  years  ago,  wandered  away  to  India,  has  now  just  return- 
ed and  is  entertaining  his  people  with  marvellous  narrations,  as  the 
existence  of  heathen  still  in  India, — details  of  their  pagan  rites, — 
the  abolition  of  the  brirning  of  widows,  by  the  English  government, 
the  existence  of  Jacobite  Christians  and  Catholics  there, — their 
quarrels,  etc.  Our  priests  and  boys  were  not  a  little  interested  to 
find  that  the  accounts  of  this  adventurer,  as  reported  by  the  bishop, 
accord  so  perfectly  with  what  they  have  learned  in  their  geography. 

Mar  Sleeva  stated,  that  there  are  now  but  few  Nestorians — per- 
haps one  hundred  families — in  Garvar,  his  diocese,  which  is  one  of 
the  finest  and  most  fertile  districts  among  the  Koordish  mountains. 
The  Nestorians  were  formerly  numerous  there;  but  they  have  been 
so  often  overrun  by  the  Koords,  that  only  this  small  remnant  is  left. 
The  Koords  treat  the  Nestorians,  who  are  subject  to  their  spoliation, 
as  they  do  their  bees, — leave  them  quiet  till  the  hive  is  worth  taking 
up  and  then  rob  it.  The  village  of  priest  Dunka  was  plundered,  a 
fevY  weeks  ago,  his  household  stripped  of  everything  valuable,  and 
his  aged  uncle,  the  venerable  priest  who  taught  him  his  letters  when 
a  little  boy,  received  several  wounds  in  the  encounter.  Priest  D. 
often  refers  to  such  losses  which  his  family  have  repeatedly  sustained, 
and  says  that  he  takes  great  satisfaction  in  contemplating  them  in 
the  light  of  the  Scripture, — "  For  ye  liad  compassion  on  me  in  my 
bonds  and  took  joyfully  the  spoiling  of  your  goods,  knowing  in  your- 
selves that  ye  have  in  heaven  a  better  and  an  enduring  substance." 

March  4.  The  stork,  which  has  a  nest  on  a  tree,  above  my  study- 
window,  returned  a  few  days  ago,  from  his  southern  pilgrimage  for 
the  winter.  This  sapient  bird,  which  I  had  known  in  America, 
only  in  its  fabled  intercourse  with  the  fox,  is  an  awkward  looking 
fowl,  with  long  legs  and  neck,  seen  only  at  its  lofty  nest,  or  fishing 
in  stagnant  pools  for  frogs.  The  Muhammedans  pay  great  deference 
to  this  bird,  and  treat  it  with  care  and  kindness,  and  on  account  of 
its  regular  periodical  migration,  dignify  it  with  the  name  of  Hdjec- 
legltk,  clacking  pilgrim.  The  return  of  the  stork  is  always  a  wel- 
come event  to  all,  as  it  is  the  unerring  harbinger  of  spring.  The 
Mussulmans  have  a  common  belief,  that  this  sagacious  bird  will  not 
frequent  the  premises  o{ infidels,  (Christians,)  as  they  are  unworthy 
of  its  confidence;  that  it  will  honor  only  the  faithful  Muhammedan 
with  the  favor  of  its  society.  The  one,  perched  above  my  study- 
window  and  conspicuous  from  all  parts  of  the  city,  must,  therefore, 
impress  them  with  the  idea  of  uncommon  sanctity  in  us  for  Chris- 
tians, as  indicated  by  its  partiality  for  our  premises,  which,  however, 
are  owned  by  a  Mussulman  and  only  rented  to  us.  An  instructive 
religious  lesson  is  always  suggested  by  the  stork's  return.  Says 
Jeremiah,  "  Yea,  the  stork  in  the  heaven  knoweth  her  appointed 
times;  but  iny  people  know  not  the  judgment  of  the  Lord."  If 
the  fowls  of  heaven  are  thus  prompt  to  obey  the  instinct  which  God 
has  implanted  in  them,  how  stupid  and  ungrateful  are  his  people, 
with  the  light  of  reasou,  revelation  and  conscience  poured  upon 


CREED  OF  THE  NESTOBIANS. 


417 


their  pathway,  to  neglect  his  requirements  and  wander  from  his 
fold  ! 

March  7.  The  more  I  become  acquainted  with  the  Nestorian 
church,  the  more  am  I  impressed  with  tlie  idea,  that  it  is  not  so 
much  error  in  doctrine  as  spiritual  death,  which  is  its  calamity. 
Many  human  and  childish  traditions  are  indeed  prevalent  among 
the  people;  and  too  many  such  doctrines  of  men,  have  they  incor- 
porated in  their  forms  of  worship.  The  major  part  of  their  liturgy, 
however,  is  composed  of  unexceptionable,  excellent  matter.  The 
charge  of  heresy  on  the  subject  of  Christ's  character*  has  been  so 
violently  thrown  upon  them,  ever  since  the  days  of  Nestorius,  by 
Papists  and  the  other  sects  of  oriental  Christians,  that  suspicion,  in 
relation  to  their  orthodoxy,  on  that  momentous  point,  is  naturally 
felt  also  in  Protestant  Christendom.  I  am  satisfied,  however,  that 
they  are  sound  in  the  faith  on  this  subject.  My  attention  was  re- 
cently directed  to  their  religious  creed,  which  they  always  repeat 
at  their  worship.  It  is  what  they  recognize  as  the  Nicenc  creed, 
and  accords  very  nearly  with  that  venerable  document  as  it  has 
come  down  to  us.  The  following  is  a  translation  of  it,  as  it  occurs 
in  the  Liturgy  of  the  Nestorians  and  is  always  repeated  by  them  at 
the  close  of  their  regular  religious  services,  which  is  the  case  at 
least  twice  a  day. 

Title. 

"  The  creed  lohich  was  composed  by  three  hundred  and  eighteen  holy  Fathers 
who  loere  iisseinlled  at  JYice,  a  city  of  Bithynia^  in  the  tlniti  of  hing  Constan- 
tine,  the  piovs.  The  occasion  of  their  assembling,  loaj  on  account  nf  jirius, 
the  infidel  accursed. 

Creed. 

We  believe  in  one  God,  the  Father  almighty.  Creator  of  all  things, 
which  are  visible  and  invisible: 

And  in  one  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  the  Son  of  God,  the  only  begot- 
ten, the  first  born  of  every  creature,  who  was  begotten  of  his  Father 
before  all  worlds  and  was  not  created ;  the  true  God  of  the  true 
God,  of  the  same  substance  with  his  Father,  by  whose  hands  the 
worlds  were  made  and  all  thincrs  were  created  :  who,  for  us  men  and 
for  our  salvation,  descended  from  heaven,  and  was  incarnate  by  the 
Holy  Ghost  and  became  a  man,  and  was  conceived  and  born  of  the 
Virgin  Mary  and  suffered  and  was  crucified  in  the  days  of  Pontius 
Pilate,  and  died  and  was  buried  and  rose  on  the  third  day  according 
to  the  Scriptures,  and  ascended  into  heaven  and  sitteth  on  the  right 
hand  of  his  Father,  and  is  again  to  come  to  judge  the  living  and 
the  dead  ; 

*  Soon  after  the  Nestorian  bishop's  arrival  in  this  country,  lie  incidentally 
heard  several  gentlemen  in  Boston  speak  of  Unitarians,  of  whom  lie  before 
knew  nothing.  He  inquired  what  was  their  belief ;  and  when  told  that  thoy 
reject  the  doctrine  of  Christ's  divinity,  he  stared  in  amaiement  and  artlessly 
asked,  "  Do  they  possess  the  Bible  ?" 

53 


418 


ARBIVAL  OF  A  NEW  GOVERNOR, 


And  we  believe  in  one  Holy  Spirit ;  the  Spirit  of  truth  who  pro- 
ceedeth  from  the  Father  ;  the  Spirit  that  giveth  life  ; 

And  in  one  Holy,  apostolic,  Catholic  church; 

We  acknowledge  one  baptism  for  the  remission  of  sins ;  and  the 
resurrection  of  the  body  and  the  life  everlasting." 

This  creed,  being  regarded  as  a  summary  of  their  religious  be- 
lief, and  being  so  often  repeated  by  the  Nestorians,  cannot  fail  of 
course  to  exert  a  strong  influence  on  their  religious  views  and  feel- 
ings. And  its  general  correctness  is  a  strong  indication,  that  it  is 
the  quickening  Spirit,  rather  than  revolution  of  doctrines  or  of  forms, 
that  is  needed  in  this  fallen  church,  for  its  renovation  and  salvation. 

March  10.  I  received  an  urgent  request  from  the  priests  and 
principal  men  of  the  village  of  Geog-tapa,  that  we  should  translate, 
or  cause  to  be  translated,  the  Nestorian  Liturgy,  from  the  ancient 
Syriac  into  their  vernacular  tongue.  I  recommended  to  the  appli- 
cants that  they  should  confer  with  their  bishops  on  the  subject. 
The  application  is  encouraging,  as  it  indicates  a  strong  desire  among 
the  clergy  and  people,  for  religious  knowledge  and  the  diffusion  of 
light.  Priests  Dunka  and  Abraham,  to  enforce  the  proposition,  in 
submitting  it,  quoted  the  language  of  Paul  to  the  Corinthians,  "  Yet 
in  the  church,  I  had  rather  speak  five  words  with  my  understanding, 
that  by  my  voice  I  might  teach  others  also,  than  ten  thousand  words 
in  an  unknown  tongue;"  a  very  suitable  comment  and  from  high 
authority  on  the  subject. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

JOURNAL:  MARCH— SEPTEMBER,  1S40. 

Our  friend.  Prince  Malek  Kasem  Meerza,  has  recently  been  ap- 
pointed governor  of  Oroomiah.  To-day,  March  26,  his  brother, 
resident  here,  sent  to  me,  inviting  the  members  of  our  mission  to 
join  him  to-morrow  morning,  and  go  out  a  few  miles  to  meet  the 
prince-governor,  whose  arrival  has  been  appointed,  by  the  astrolo- 
gers, to  take  place  at  that  time. 

March  27.  We  started  about  7  o'clock  in  the  morning,  wit'h 
prince  M.  M.  Meerza,  and  his  great  train,  and  went  out  six  or 
seven  miles,  on  the  Maragha  road,  where  we  met  his  Royal  High- 
ness. A  vast  concourse  of  the  male  inhabitants  of  the  city  and  vil- 
lages were  out  on  the  occasion,  and  testified  their  satisfaction  in 
welcoming  their  new  governor  and  tendered  to  him  their  loyalty, 


THE  MITRIB  ALLUSION  TO  FEMALES. 


419 


whether  feigned  or  real,  by  slaying  animals,  (calves  and  sheep,)  and 
throwing  their  heads  under  the  feet  of  his  horse,  as  he  advanced 
towards  the  city.  The  prince-governor,  as  well  as  his  brother, 
showed  us  distinguished  attention,  assigning  us  a  place  next  to 
themselves  in  the  procession,  in  front  of  all  the  MooUahs,  Khans 
and  other  dignitaries,  thus  evincing  the  general  regard  which  the 
Persians  cherish  for  strangers,  and  the  partiality  of  the  princes  for 
European  society.  His  Highness  called  us  repeatedly  to  his  side, 
and  inquired  very  particularly  after  our  welfare  and  our  work.  Be- 
fore reaching  the  main  body  of  the  vast  procession,  he  sent  forward 
strict  orders  that  the  native  musicians,  (i.  e.  the  players  of  native 
music,)  should  not  perform  on  the  occasion, — another  circumstance 
indicating  the  disposition  of  this  prince  to  do  away  the  noisy,  bar- 
barous practices  of  his  countrymen,  and  substitute,  in  their  places, 
European  customs.  In  the  ardor  of  their  loyalty,  however,  those 
musicians  were  deaf  to  the  orders,  and  the  prince  was  escorted, 
as  is  usual  on  such  occasions,  by  incessant  '  music  and  danc- 
ing,' and  palestrian  and  antic  gambols,  during  the  last  two  or 
three  miles,  till  he  reached  the  door  of  his  palace.  These  musi- 
cians are  often  of  the  Mitrib, — a  wandering  race  of  minstrels  who 
live  in  tents  like  the  gypsies  of  Europe,  and  obtain  their  subsistence 
by  music  and  dancing,  comic  exhibitions,  begging  and  thieving,  in 
which  they  are  very  expert,  and  by  ministering  to  the  corruption  of 
the  dissolute  Persians  in  ways  that  are  not  to  be  named.  The  Nes- 
torians  suppose  them  to  be  descendants  of  the  Moabites. 

March  28.  We  waited  on  the  prince-governor  to  congratulate 
him  on  his  auspicious  entrance  upon  the  high  prerogatives  of  his 
office.  He  received  us  with  his  usual  affability  and  so  far  dispensed 
with  oriental  etiquette  as  to  inquire  after  the  health  of  our  ladies, 
proposing  to  visit  us  soon  and  pay  his  respects  to  them.  It  is  usually 
considered  highly  indecorous,  among  Asiatics,  to  make  inquiries  for 
the  health  of  the  females  of  a  family,  as  such.  If  allusion  be  made 
to  them,  it  must  be  by  a  figure, — the  house  instead  of  the  wife  or 
lady  even;  or  if  more  definiteness  be  required,  as  sometimes  hap- 
pens at  our  medical  dispensary,  in  relation  to  the  sick,  the  gender 
is  even  changed,  and  a  woman  is  spoken  of  under  the  more  deco- 
rous epithet  of  a  man. 

April  3.  Maiek  Kasem  Meerza  sent  to  me  the  firman  which  he 
procured  from  the  king  of  Persia,  when  he  visited  His  Majesty  at 
Tehran.  It  is  the  more  interesting  and  valuable,  as  it  was  pro- 
cured by  the  prince,  entirely  unsolicited  by  us,  and  even  without 
our  knowledge.  The  following  is  a  translation  of  this  august 
document  and  of  the  royal  seal  which  is  prefixed. 


420 


IlOYAL  SEAL  AND  FIRMAN. 


"In  the  name  of  God,  lofty  in  exaltation : 

l|  The  A\m\g\\ij  God  !  |l 
^     MuiiAMMEn  Shah  ; 
^  the  arbiter  of   crown  : 
jj^  and  signet,  hath  come  ;  ; 'm. 
yA  the  light  of  the  realm  j)K 

and    of    nations — the  ' 

lustre  of  laws  and  of  \^ 
5)^1  religion,  liath  come  !  j)!^ 

In  the  name  of  the  Ahnighty  God  !  The  command  to  be  obeyed 
by  the  world  !  It  is  this ;  The  high  in  station,  quick  of  under- 
stnnding;  the  noble;  the  perfection  of  intelligence  and  dignity,  and 
the  fulness  of  exaltation  and  grandeur,  the  greatest  of  christian 
priests  and  the  highest  of  the  perfect  followers  of  Jesus,  Mr.  Per- 
kins, who  has  labored  with  incalculable  devotedness  for  the  weal  of 
the  high  and  refulgent  king  of  kings:  For  the  purpose  of  gratify- 
ing and  exalting  him  [Mr.  P.],  let  hira  know,  that  in  accordance 
with  a  memorial  to  his  refulgent  and  fortunate  Majesty,  by  his  be- 
loved and  exalted  uncle,  Malek  Kasem  Meerza,  stating  that  the 
said  "high  in  station,"  in  accordance  with  his  calling  and  inclina- 
tion, has  established  a  school  in  the  country  of  Oroomiah,  and  has 
been,  with  the  most  assiduous  care  and  attention,  engaged  in  the 
instruction  of  children  and  the  education  of  the  young  and  the  dif- 
fusion of  science  and  knowledge :  These  are  the  reasons  of  the 
manifestation  of  the  graciousness  and  favor  of  the  king  of  kings  to 
the  said  "  high  in  station."  And  it  is  that  the  abundant  gracious- 
ness of  the  king  of  kings  may  be  displayed,  to  exalt  and  honor  him, 
that  this  auspicious  command  is  issued. 

It  is  requisite  that  the  said  "  high  in  station,"  increase  his  efforts 
and  instruction  among  the  young;  and  that,  xvith  even  greater  zeal 
than  hitherto,  he  teach  them  the  science  of  history,  geography, 
geometry  and  mathematics.  And  in  the  performance  of  these  ser- 
vices, His  Majesty's  graciousness  and  favor  will  continue  to  rest 
upon  him. 

Written  on  the  27th  day  of  Rabbeea-al-ewel,  1255. 

The  king's  auspicious  seal  hath  reached  this; 

[The  prime  minister]." 

The  reader,  by  this  time,  knows  enough  of  Persian  style,  to  ap- 
preciate its  pompous  flowers,  figures  and  epithets.  With  all  due 
abatement  for  these,  however,  the  real  design  of  this  firman  was  to 
protect  and  encourage  us  in  our  labors,  and  it  cannot  fail  to  con- 
tribute much  to  that  object,  which  was  the  more  important,  in  the 
absence  of  the  English  embassy.  My  name  only  is  used  in  this 
document,  as  in  prec^eding  ones,  because  most  familiar  to  the  au- 


TITLES  STYLE  FOLDING  LETTERS  SEAL.  421 


thorities.  It  was  intended,  however,  as  the  prince  himself  stated, 
for  the  benefit  of  all  the  members  of  our  mission.  The  strong-  dis- 
position of  the  king,  and  others,  high  in  rank  and  authority,  in  Per- 
sia, to  encourage  the  introduction  of  light  and  knowledge,  should 
be  thankfully  recognized,  as  a  very  cheering  sign  of  the  times,  be- 
tokening that  the  set  time  to  favor  Zion  here  is  at  hand.  The 
missionary,  however,  and  his  patrons,  must  never  for  a  moment  for- 
get, that  borne  on  the  full  tide  of  external  prosperity,  and  fanned 
even  by  the  breath  of  royal  approbation,  (which  is  precarious  enough 
in  the  East,)  without  Christ,  we  can  do  nothing. 

The  titles  by  which  the  kinw  is  usually  addressed  and  spoken  of, 
are,  Shah  (king),  iShdhdn  Shah  (king  of  kings),  and  Kiibla  Alem 
(centre  of  the  world).  In  speaking  of  other  monarchs,  the  Persians 
make  a  distinction  between  king  and  emperor,  by  applying  Shah, 
to  the  former,  and  Shdhdn  Shah,  to  the  latter.  Of  the  grandiloquent 
character  of  official  documents  among  the  Persians,  the  foregoing 
is  a  very  good  illustration ;  and  the  same  general  trait  characterizes 
all  their  written  communications.  In  letters  on  business,  the  first 
page  is  commonly  almost  filled  with  flowery  epithets,  the  mctleb, 
(business,)  occupying  a  few  lines,  perhaps  a  single  line,  at  the  bot- 
tom, upon  which  the  person  addressed  always  casts  his  eye  on  open- 
ing the  document,  without  even  looking  at  the  long  string  of  titles 
and  conipliments  which  precede,  unless  his  relish  for  that  light  food 
is  unusually  strong.  And  however  disagreeable  may  be  the  design 
and  the  matter  of  the  communication,  it  is  still  gorgeously,  if  not 
mellifluously,  prefaced  in  the  same  way.  Such  was,  doubtless, 
true  of  the  document  in  which  our  worthy  governor  was  threatened 
by  the  king,  that  if  he  failed  to  execute  a  certain  order,  he  should 
"receive  a  kick  from  which  he  would  never  recover  in  this  world." 
Letters  and  other  documents,  instead  of  being  folded,  for  transmis- 
sion, are  closely  rolled,  and  are  sealed  by  xneans  of  a  narrow  strip 
of  strong  paper,  like  a  piece  of  riband  or  tape,  wound  tightly 
around  the  middle  of  the  roll,  and  attached  by  a  species  of  wax  or 
gum.  A  seal,  bearing  the  name  or  titles  of  the  writer,  is  sometimes 
instamped  with  ink  upon  the  roll,  wliore  it  is  fastened.  The  super- 
scription is  written  with  the  pen  near  one  end.  The  seal,  with  ink, 
is  used  within,  instead  of  the  written  signature  of  the  author,  though 
sometimes  both  are  inserted.  The  extensive  use  and  high  import- 
ance of  the  seal  in  the  East,  forcibly  illustrates  the  figures  of  Scrip- 
ture, which  attach  to  it  such  sacred  solemnity  and  authority.  The 
profession  of  the  Meerzas  (scribes),  is  an  extensive  one,  the  higher 
classes  in  Persia  eschewing  the  drudgery  of  using  the  pen,  and  the 
peasants  being  too  ignorant  to  do  their  own  writing.  The  lower 
class  of  merchants  usually  keep  their  accounts,  write  their  own 
letters,  and  use  their  own  seal ;  but  not  the  principal  ones.*  Copy- 

*  The  principal  merchants  carry  on  their  business  with  a  cipher,  and 
every  person  has  a  different  one.  For  in  a  country  where  there  are  no  regu- 
lar posts,  their  letters  must  be  trusted  to  couriers,  whom  a  small  sum  would 


422 


BUSINESS  OF  MEERZAS  FINE  WRITING. 


ing  manuscripts  also  opens  a  wide  field  of  labor  for  the  Meerzas,  as 
well  as  for  the  lower  orders  of  the  Moollahs.  The  Persian  pen  is 
a  small  hollow  reed,  instead  of  a  quill ;  the  latter  would  be  likely  to 
cut  the  paper,  in  the  heavy  hand  of  Eastern  characters.  "  We 
don't  trouble  the  goose,"  said  Mar  Yohannan,  when  the  value  of  his 
vegetable  pen  was  once  subjected  to  a  comparison  with  the  quill, 
by  a  Yankee  utilitarian. 

The  beauty  of  Persian  manuscripts  has  long  been  celebrated. 
Sir  William  Jones  was  so  enraptured  with  them,  that  he  almost 
wished  the  art  of  printing  had  never  been  invented.  And  few  can 
inspect  them  and  compare  them  with  printed  copies,  without  parti- 
cipating in  a  measure  of  the  same  feeling,  at  least,  till  they  remember 
the  inestimable  blessings,  so  much  richer  and  higher  than  all  the 
elegance  of  caligraphy,  which  the  press  is  beginning  to  pour  upon 
Eastern  nations.  The  Persians  are  able  to  write  with  a  fineness 
and  distinctness  that  utterly  defy  imitation  with  type.  I  have  seen 
the  whole  of  the  Koran,  written  on  two  strips  of  fine  Chinese  paper, 
three  inches  vvide  and  perhaps  ten  feet  long, — written,  not  "within 
and  without,"  but  only  on  one  side, — which,  when  rolled  up,  made 
a  roll  a  little  larger  than  the  finger  ;  and  still,  every  letter  was  fully 
formed  and  perfectly  legible.  The  Persians  now  usually  write  their 
manuscripts  in  the  form  of  volumes,  rather  than  rolls.  And  the  art 
of  printing  is  rapidly  superseding  the  profession  of  copyists,  in  any 
form.  Some  of  the  Nestorians  are  also  able  to  use  the  pen  with 
great  elegance;  and  the  bolder  stroke  and  square  form  of  the  Syriac 
character,  which  they  use,  appear  in  even  finer  relief  than  the  Per- 
sian letters.  We  need  good  paper  and  type  to  compete  with 
these  copyists  in  matters  of  taste,  sufficiently  to  meet  the  fastidious- 
ness of"  old  school"  men,  and  particularly,  of  the  copyists  them- 
selves, whose  "  craft"  is  so  much  endangered  by  the  innovation  of 
printing.  The  process  of  writing  by  hand,  in  this  elegant  style,  is 
of  course  very  slow;  and  such  manuscripts  are  highly  prized  and 
very  difficult  to  be  procured.  Says  my  worthy  fellow-laborer,  Mr. 
Breath,  our  printer,  in  a  letter  recently  received,  "  I  wish  I  conld 
send  you  some  handsomely  written  books,  but  you  know  bow  diffi- 

bribe  to  betray  their  secrets  to  commercial  rivals;  and  it  is  of  great  conse- 
quence that  they  should  have  the  first  intelligence  of  political  changes,  about 
which  they  would  fear  to  write  openly.  The  authenticity  of  a  merchant's 
letters,  as  of  his  bills,  depends  entirely  npon  the  s£al.  It  is  not  usual  to  sign 
either;  and  they  are  not  often  written  in  the  hand  of  the  person  who  sends 
them;  so  that  it  is  the  seal  which  is  of  importance.  Engraven  upon  it  is  the 
name  and  title,  if  he  has  one,  of  the  person  it  belongs  to,  and  the  date  when 
it  was  cut.  The  occupation  of  seal-cutter  is  one  of  much  trust  and  some 
dano-er;  he  keeps  a  register  of  every  seal  he  m.-ikes,  and  if  one  is  stolen  or 
lost^by  the  party  to  wl\om  he  sold  it,  his  life  would  answer  for  the  crime  of 
making  another  exactly  the  same.  The  person  to  whom  it  belongs,  if  in 
business,  is  obliged  to  take  the  most  respectable  witnesses  of  the  occurrence, 
and  to  write  to  his  correspondents,  declaring  all  accounts  and  business  with 
his  former  seal,  null  from  the  day  upon  which  it  was  lost. — Hist,  of  Persia, 
Vol.  II.  p.  421. 


A   PERSIAK  MEEBZA   OR  SCRiBE. 


OTHER  SERVICES  OF  THE  MEERZAS. 


423 


cult  they  are  to  be  obtained.  Mr.  Holladay  tried  to  buy  a  Prayer- 
Book,  beautifully  written,  for  the  purpose  of  sending  to  Mr.  Hal- 
lock,*  and  offered  a  high  price  for  it;  but  the  owner  could  by  no 
nneans  be  induced  to  part  with  it,  declaring  it  to  be  his  life.'  So 
you  see,  there  is  an  occasional  article  that  Asiatics  value  above 
money." 

In  addition  to  writing,  the  Meerzas  perform  other  important  ser- 
vices.   They  stand  before  their  master,  during  his  daily  levee,  and 
when  not  engaged  in  writing,  echo  his  oracular  sayings,  or  lead  a 
chorus  in  doing  it,  which  is  made  up  usually  of  a  train  of  dependants, 
that  come  to  make  their  bow  to  their  superior  and  give  him  their 
seldm.    I  never  understood  the  full  import  of  syco/jAar/ry,  until  I 
witnessed  it  in  these  Persian  Meerzas,  most  obsequiously  nodding 
at  every  word  their  master  utters,  and  interposing,  once  or  twice, 
in  the  course  of  every  sentence,  Bey  Icy,  (to  be  sure,)  Alhetdeh,  (of 
course,)  etc.    To  pronounce  an  opinion,  themselves,  before  it  had 
come  from  his  lips,  would  be  the  height  of  arrogance  and  presump- 
tion.   The  Meerzas  have  also  in  general  the  responsibility  of  com- 
municating intelligence  to  their  master.    If  this  happens  to  be  of 
an  unpleasant  nature,  the  announcement  of  it  is  no  welcome  nor 
easy  task,  and  must  be  palliated  by  all  the  rhetorical  skill  which  the 
practised  sycophant  can  command.    And  on  extraordinary  occa- 
sions, men  of  the  highest  rank,  as  well  as  of  eloquent  powers,  are 
employed  for  this  purpose.    When  the  late  war  was  concluded  be- 
tween Russia  and  Persia,  the  heir-apparent,  who  had  the  manage- 
ment of  the  foreign  relations  of  the  country,  engaged  to  pay  to  the 
Russian  government  several  Kroor  of  tomans — I  forget  the  number, 
but  believe  the  amount  to  have  been  at  least  half  a  score  of  millions 
of  dollars — to  induce  that  government  to  recal  its  troops  from  Per- 
sia and  accede  to  the  conditions  of  peace.    It  was  for  some  time  a 
question,  who  could  go  and  report  these  terms  to  the  king,  the  im- 
pression being  general,  that  whoever  should  bear  such  tidings  to  his 
Majesty  would  lose  his  head  on  the  spot.    The  governor  of  Tabreez, 
a  celebrated  orator,  was  at  length  appointed  to  the  perilous  service. 
He  approached  the  old  Shah  with  all  due  courtesy  and  ceremony, 
and  told  him,  that  he  was  commissioned,  by  his  exalted  son,  the 
Naib  Sijltan,  to  propose  to  His  Majesty,  the  Admiration  of  the  world, 
that  he  should  throw  out  a  trifle,  say,  perhaps  ten  millions  of 
dollars,  or  so,  from  his  inexhaustible  treasury,  to  those  poor,  miser- 
able, hungry  Russian  infidels  and  let  than  go  home!    The  herald 
was  dismissed  without  harm  or  disgrace,  though  the  "inexhaustible 
treasury"  was  soon  emptied,  in  meeting  the  demand,  and  one  in- 
stalment, a  fifth  of  the  whole  sum,  remains  unpaid  to  the  present 
period,  and  the  Russians  have  the  fertile  district  of  Khoy  in  pledge 
as  security. 

Sometimes  unwelcome  intelligence  is  announced  to  the  king 
through  the  medium  of  emblems,  as  well  as  by  exalted  personages. 


*  To  aid  Mr.  li.  in  preparing  our  now  fnnt  of  Syriac  type. 


4-24 


EIvrSLEMS  POLICY  CONCEALMENT. 


Such  was  the  case,  in  communicating  to  the  present  Shah  the  death 
of  his  favorite  brother,  one  of  our  kind  benefactors,  Kahraman 
Meerza,  an  account  of  which  I  received,  not  long  since,  from  my 
esteemed  associate,  Dr.  Wright,  and  from  which  I  insert  the  follow- 
ing. "  A  chapper  has  arrived  from  Tehran,  since  the  sad  news  of 
the  death  of  his  brother  was  communicated  to  the  king.  He  brings 
intelligence  respecting  the  manner  in  which  the  news  was  made 
known  to  His  Majesty.  I  think  you  will  regard  it  as  truly  oriental. 
A  painting  was  made,  representing  the  deceased  prince,  in  as  perfect 
likeness  as  possible,  in  the  habiliments  of  death.  This  picture  was 
carried  by  the  English  and  Russian  ambassadors  and  laid  before  the 
king,  not  a  word  being  spoken.  It  is  said  that  the  Shah  at  once 
took  the  hint,  (he  had  heard  of  his  brother's  illness  before;)  that 
he  swooned  and  was  carried  into  his  Anderoon  [harem],  where  he 
remained,  not  appearing  in  public,  for  three  days."  The  same  let- 
ter communicates  the  manner  of  temporarily  filling  the  deceased 
prince's  place,  in  the  government  of  Azerbijan,  which  was  as  fol- 
lows; "Maiek  Kasem  Meerza,  [prince-governor  of  Oroomiah,]  still 
remains  at  Tabreez,  and  is  governor,  for  the  time,  by  order  of  the 
Shah.  It  is  generally  thought,  that  the  heiv-apperant,  though  a 
boy  of  twelve  years,  will  be  sent  to  Tabreez.  Our  prince,  in  his 
delicate  position,  shows  his  wisdom.  Since  the  death  of  Kahraman 
Meerza,  all  public  documents  and  orders  have  passed  through  his 
hands.  That  he  may  avoid  all  danger  of  awakening  fears  or  jeal- 
ousies in  the  mind  of  the  king,  or  of  those  about  him,  he  has  placed 
his  01071  seal  upon  none  of  them,  but  has  done  all  business  in  the 
name  of  a  son  of  the  deceased  prince,  a  little  boy  two  years  old  ! 
The  little  boy's  seal  has  been  placed  upon  all  public  orders.  Is  not 
this  shrewd?    All  commend  the  policy  of  the  thing." 

I  may  remark,  in  relation  to  the  communication  of  unwelcome 
intelligence  in  Persia,  that  the  death  of  friends  is  often  kept  stu- 
diously concealed,  by  the  Meerzas  and  others,  from  their  masters, 
as  long  as  they  are  able  to  do  it.  The  governor  of  Oroomiah  once 
returned  from  a  journey,  three  months  after  the  death  of  a  favorite 
little  son.  After  being  greeted,  on  his  arrival,  by  the  rest  of  his 
family,  he  inquired  for  the  little  boy,  and  a  violent  burst  of  grief 
from  all  present,  was  the  first  intimation  he  had  that  the  child  was 
dead.  On  asking  his  Meerza,  who  had  regularly  written  him  and 
reported  his  family  as  well,  why  he  had  not  told  him  the  truth,  the 
latter  replied  to  the  agonized  father,  that  he  was  reluctant  to  give 
him  pain  ;  and  the  benevolence,  of  hie  motives  "excused  him  for  the 
concealment.  "  The  servants  of  David  also  feared  to  tell  him  that 
the  child  was  dead."  But  the  king  of  Israel  had  a  source  of  support 
and  consolation.  "  When  David  saw  that  his  servants  whispered, 
David  perceived  that  the  child  was  dead  ;  then  David  arose  from 
the  earth,  and  washed  and  annointed  himself  and  changed  his  ap- 
parel and  came  into  the  house  of  the  Lord  and  worshipped."  It 
is  often  very  affecting  to  witness  the  efforts  in  Persia  to  keep  from 


JEWISH  PHYSICIAN  FRUIT  IKRIGATION. 


425 


sick  friends  the  extent  of  their  danger.  They  are  always  assured, 
that  they  are-in  a  fair  way  to  recover  and  are  hilled  in  security,  un- 
til the  lamp  of  life  actually  expires,  when  a  scene  of  raving  lamen- 
tation ensues  among  the  relatives  and  connexions,  that  proclaims, 
with  awful  emphasis,  the  entire  absence  of  that  hope,  which  blunts 
the  sting  of  death  and  sheds  light  and  solace  around  the  darkness 
of  the  tomb. 

April  4.  I  received  a  visit  from  a  Jewish  physician.  I  put  into 
his  hands  my  Hebrew  New  Testament,  opening  to  the  Epistle  to 
the  Hebrews,  from  which  I  requested  him  to  read.  He  had  never 
before  seen  a  New  Testament  and  was  much  amused.  In  reading 
from  the  first  chapter  of  Hebrews,  "This,"  said  he,  "is  from  owr 
Psahns;  but  how  it  is  mixed  up,  (meeting  with  quotations  from 
different  Psalms,)  this  is  your  work  is  it,  Sirl"  I  told  him  that, 
far  enough  from  being  my  work,  it  was  about  eighteen  hundred 
years  old,  and  the  work  of  one  of  his  own  nation.  He  excused  him- 
self from  discussion,  being  as  he  said,  a  physician,  and  not  a.  Rabbi. 

April  10.  A  gardener  brought  me  a  present  of  some  very  fine 
pears.  I  measured  the  largest  one  and  found  it  just  twelve  inches 
in  circumference.  The  fruit  of  Orooraiah  is  among  the  ftjiest  in 
the  world  and  it  is  very  abundant.  Its  cherries  are  ripe  commonly 
about  the  10th  of  June ;  and  after  that  period,  one  species  of  fruit 
ripens  after  another,  in  quick  succession,  as  apricots,  plums,  apples, 
melons,  peaches,  pears,  grapes,  quinces,  etc.  until  winter  sets  in; 
and  the  grapes  are  preserved  in  a  state  of  tolerable  freshness  through 
the  winter  and  spring,  until  near  the  period  when  cherries  come 
again.  As  elsewhere  mentioned,  all  crops  in  Persia  must  be  arti- 
ficially irrigated,  as  rain  seldom  falls  there  during  the  warm  months 
of  the  year.  The  fact  that  the  plains  are  nearly  level  facilitates  the 
process.  Water  is  taken  by  canals  from  tlie  small  rivers  that  roll 
down  from  the  mountams,  and  conveyed  along  near  the  foot  of  the 
declivities.  Smaller  canals,  leading  from  the  main  ones,  carry  it 
down  to  prescribed  sections  of  the  plain ;  and  these  are  again  sub- 
divided and  conduct  it  to  particular  fields,  as  it  is  needed.  The 
openings  from  the  main  canals  are  readily  closed,  when  sufficient 
water  is  taken  out  for  a  given  field,  and  the  stream  then  passes  on 
to  cheer  and  fertilize  the  thirsty  soil  of  the  next  neighbor.  The 
ease  with  which  the  gardener  changes  these  streams,  by  closing  or 
opening  a  channel,  with  his  spade,  or  even  with  his  foot,  vividly  il- 
lustrates the  Scripture  allusion  to  divine  sovereignty,  "The  king's 
heart  is  in  the  hand  of  the  Lord,  as  the  rivers  (rivulets)  of  water; 
he  turneth  it  whithersoever  he  will."  If  the  fields  are  not  level,  they 
must  be  divided  and  worked  by  a  spaxie  or  plough  into  level  sections,, 
each  enclosed  within  a  ridge  a  few  inches  high;  and  these  divisions 
are  successively  watered. 

This  water  privilege  is  apportioned, — each  farmer  or  land-holder 
being  entitled  to  it  only  on  particular  days  or  hours  of  the  week. 
And  it  often  happens,  toward  the  close  of  summer,  when  the  streams 

54 


426 


WELLS  GRIST-MILLS — HAND  MILL. 


are  low,  that  quarrels  arise  on  the  subject, — the  water  being  ex- 
hausted before  it  reaches  the  lower  portions  of  the  plain ;  and  the 
village  lords  sometimes  assemble  their  -serfs  and  lead  them  out  to 
battle.  Where  streams  do  not  exist,  or  cannot  readily  be  conduct- 
ed, wells  are  in  some  cases  dug  from  which  water  is  drawn  with  a 
bucket  of  skin,  npon  a  windlass,  turned  by  an  ox,  as  in  Egypt  of 
old.  In  other  cases,  a  well  is  sunk  upon  a  descending  plain,  till  a 
spring  is  found,  and  a  canal  cut  from  the  bottom,  under  ground,  de- 
scending just  enough  to  convey  its  water  along, — and  a  few  yards 
from  the  first,  a  second  well  is  dug,  that  the  earth,  in  cutting  the 
subterranean  passage,  may  be  drawn  out,  and  the  same  process  is 
repeated,  till  the  spring  is  conveyed  to  the  surface  and  made  to  ir- 
rigate the  adjacent  fields.  The  rapidity  with  which  these  wells  are 
dug,  is  surprising.  Two  men, — one  at  the  top  with  a  small  hand 
windlass  and  a  leather  bucket  to  draw  up  the  soil,  and  the  other, 
below,  with  an  iron  prong,  like  a  tusk,  furnished  with  a  short  han- 
dle, to  dig  it  up,  and  a  huge  iron  spoon,  with  which  to  fill  the  buck- 
et,— will  work  down  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet  per  day;  and  the 
soil  is  so  dry,  as  to  need  no  curb  nor  wall  to  prevent  it  from  caving. 

The  larger  canals,  taken  from  the  rivers,  are  made  to  turn  grist- 
mills, in  their  progress  across  the  plain,  as  often  as  the  general  de- 
scent will  leave  a  sufl'icient  elevation  to  the  huge  artificial  ridges, 
that  are  thrown  up  like  rail-road  embankments  and  supported  by 
the  roots  of  the  willows  on  the  margins  of  the  stream,  to  convey  the 
water  for  the  double  purpose  of  irrigating  the  adjacent  fields  and 
turning  the  mills.  The  grist-mill  is  the  only  species  of  machinery, 
which  is  moved  by  water  in  Persia;  and  this  is  exceedingly  simple 
in  its  construction, — consisting  merely  of  a  perpendicular  shaft, 
with  a  water-wheel  attached  to  the  bottom  and  the  upper  mill-stone 
placed  upon  the  top.  The  water  is  conveyed  from  the  canal  down 
to  the  buckets  of  the  wheel,  by  a  large  spout  or  trough,  dug  from 
the  trunk  of  a  tree,  very  narrow  at  the  surface  and  often  entirely 
covered  over  with  pieces  of  board.  This  spout  is  placed  at  an  an- 
gle of  at  least  forty-five  degrees,  and  with  a  head  of  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet,  it  turns  the  wheel  with  prodigious  rapidity  and  power.  The 
Persians,  having  no  means  of  bolting  their  flour  at  the  mill,  sift  it 
with  coarse  sieves  by  hand.  '  Two  women  grinding  at  the  mil],' — 
the  small  hand-mill — is  still  a  familiar  scene  in  Persia  among  the 
peasants;  but  only  for  very  small  quantities  of  grain,  or  when  there 
is  no  water,  or  it  is  inconvenient  from  some  cause  to  resort  to  the 
labor-saving  method. 

I  intended  to  say  more  on  the  subject  of  horticulture  and  agri- 
culture, but  in  following  the  course  of  the  canals  to  water  the  fields, 
have  unconsciously  led  the  reader  away  to  the  grist-mills.  We  will 
return,  for  a  few  moments,  to  the  fruit-gardens  and  the  fields,  taking 
the  apricot  tree  as  ;m  example  in  noticing  the  preparation  of  the 
ground.  The  soil,  before  setting  out  the  young  trees,  is  prepared 
with  a  plough.    To  break  up  the  green-sward,  or  fallow-ground, 


APRICOTS  PLUMS  PEACHES  GRAPES. 


427 


Ihe  Persians  use  a  large  coulter-plough,  twice  the  size  of  a  common 
American  plough,  the  beam  resting  on  an  axle  with  two  wheels, 
one  of  which  is  about  three  feet  in  diameter  and  runs  in  the  furrow, 
while  the  other,  about  half  that  size,  runs  upon  the  unbroken  soil. 
The  whole  is  drawn  by  three,  four,  five,  or  even  six  yoke  of  large 
buffaloes,  with  a  yoke  or  two  of  oxen  before  them,  a  boy  sitting  on 
each,  or  each  alternate,  yoke,  pricking  up  the  team  with  his  goad 
and  sincrino-  in  a  shrill,  monotonous  tone  to  cheer  the  buffaloes  in 
their  toil.  The  soil  is  afterwards  cross-ploughed,  once  or  twice,  by 
the  small  one-handled  plough  already  described,  which  turns  no  fur- 
row, but  cuts  the  earth  sufficiently  deep.  This  light  plough  is 
drawn  by  oxen,  which  in  Persia,  though  a  puny  species,  are  capable 
of  performing  a  good  deal  of  labor.  The  surface  is  then  smoothed 
over  with  a  bush-drag,  a  harrow,  or  a  roller.  The  small  trees  are  set 
out  in  rows,  in  the  style  of  orchards  in  America.  A  small  conical 
mound,  about  a  foot  and  a  half  high,  is  generally  thrown  up  around 
their  trunks.  Most  of  the  family  usually  A"yc  in  the  orchard,  during 
the  season  of  harvest, — all  feeding  on  the  fruit,  assisting  in  gather- 
ing it  and  taking  their  turns  in  guarding  it  by  night.  They  dry  a 
considerable  part  of  the  fruit  (by  simply  spreading  it  upon  the 
ground)  for  sale  and  exportation  and  for  their  own  winter  use.  The 
plum  of  which  there  are  several  kinds — the  al  Bokhara  being  the 
most  esteemed — is  much  cultivated;  and  Persia  is  said  to  be  the 
primitive  home  of  the  Peach — Poinum  Persicum  being  the  name 
given  to  it  by  Linnaeus.  The  peaches  are  of  two  general  descrip- 
tions, one  of  the  size  common  in  America,  and  the  other  much 
larger,  which  is  also  very  superior  in  flavor. 

Grapes  and  melons  are  used  as  food  by  all  classes  in  Persia,  even 
more  extensively  than  the  fruits  already  named.  The  vine  is  set 
out  in  rows.  The  space — about  fifteen  feet  wide — between  the 
rows,  is  sown  two  years  with  cotton.  The  third  year — that  in 
which  it  begins  to  bear — the  soil  is  thrown  up  into  ridges  about 
three  and  a  half  feet  high.  The  vines  stand  usually  in  the  north 
side  of  the  ridge,  that  they  may  be  partially  shielded  from  the  con- 
centrated heat  of  the  sun.  They  run  over,  and  the  clusters  lie  on 
the  top  and  the  opposite  side.  Near  the  high  mud-walls,  by  which 
many  of  the  vineyards  are  enclosed,  for  the  security  of  the  fruit,  the 
vines  often  run  up  and  over  the  wall,  and  afford  striking  illustrations 
of  the  Scripture  allusion,  where  Joseph  is  compared  to  a  thrifty  vine. 
The  growth  of  each  year  is  cut  off,  early  in  the  ensuing  spring,  very 
near  the  point  where  it  sprang  from  the  permanent  stock.  Vine- 
dressers tell  us,  that  the  twentieth  of  an  inch  being  left  by  the  pruner, 
will  ensure  a  future  crop.  It  is  thus  pruned,  "  that  it  may  bring 
forth  more  fruit."  Grapes  are  eaten  fresh  in  their  season.  They 
are  also  braided  by  their  stems,  and  suspended  from  the  ceilings  of 
dry  rooms,  and  kept  fresh  during  the  winter.  They  are  dried,  as 
raisins,  for  sale  and  exportation,  as  well  as  for  domestic  use.  Vast 
quantities  are  also  made  into  molasses.  And  still  more — generally  of 


428 


MELONS  CHERRIES  WHEAT  CORN 


the  inferior  grapes  and  the  gleanings — are  made  into  wine  and 
arrak. 

The  mu^k-melon  is  a  far  greater  favorite  among  the  Persians 
than  the  water-melon,  though  both  are  much  cultivated.  The 
melon  vines  are  once  hoed,  (if  we  may  so  speak,)  with  a  spade,  the 
American  hoe  having  no  place  among  the  farming  implements  of 
Persia.  The  ?7ij«/t-melon,  at  the  size  of  a  walnut,  is  folded  up  in 
a  leaf  from  its  own  vine,  and  covered  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  earth, 
perhaps  to  protect  it  from  worms,  but  more  especially,  to  render 
the  rind  thin,  and  the  fruit  sweet.  All  but  two  or  three  of  the 
blows,  are  stripped  from  each  vine,  which  then  yields  as  many 
melons.  As  it  grows,  and  its  envelope  expands,  it  throws  olF  the 
layer  of  earth,  and  the  process  of  covering  it  is  twice  more  repeated. 
As  it  advances  to  maturity,  it  is  raised  up  from  its  bed  and  placed 
upon  the  ridge,  where  it  rapidly  ripens  under  the  alternate  night 
chills  and  the  hot  sun  of  the  clear  summer  sky.  Melons  are  eaten 
not  only  in  their  season  ;  they  are  also,  (particularly  the  water-melon,) 
kept  fresh  during  most  of  the  winter.  For  an  early  crop,  the  soil 
is  laid  out  in  patches  or  beds,  which  are  sprinkled  over  with  coarse 
sand  or  gravel,  to  keep  the  earth  warm  and  preserve  it  from  baking 
during  the  rains  of  spring.  Soil  thus  prepared,  is  for  obvious  rea- 
sons, not  hoed  (spaded),  but  weeded,  should  occasion  require.  A 
shelter  is  erected  in  the  melon  fields,  by  setting  four  poles  in  the 
earth,  binding  small  rafters  across  their  tops,  and  covering  the  frail 
platform  with  limbs  cut  from  the  poplars  and  willows  on  the  water- 
courses, whose  leaves,  under  the  scorching  sun,  soon  dry,  and  pre- 
sent a  striking  illustration  of  the  "lodge  in  the  garden  of  cucum- 
bers," which  is,  in  Scripture,  made  the  emblem  of  Jerusalem  in  her 
desolation.  This  shelter  is  constantly  occupied,  in  the  season  of 
fruit,  by  the  owners,  who  gather  what  is  ripe  during  the  day,  and 
guard  the  field  from  depredations  by  night. 

Cherries  are  so  abundant  at  Oroomiah,  that  a  bushel  may  be 
purchased  for  twenty-five  cents,  or  even  less,  in  their  season.  There 
are  two  general  kinds,  a  large  reddish,  amber  cherry,'  which  begins 
to  ripen  the  second  week  in  June,  and  a  small,  sour,  crimson  one, 
which  is  two  or  three  weeks  later.  Of  the  mammoth  pears  I  have 
spoken.  Apples  are  comparatively  little  cultivated  in  Persia,  and 
they  are  inferior  in  quality  to  American  apples,  owing  perhaps  to 
the  warmth  and  dryness  of  the  climate.  The  quinces  of  that  coun- 
try are  very  abundant  and  excellent.  Oroomiah  is  a  Rochester  and 
vicinity  for  the  production  of  wheat,  which  is  the  common  bread- 
stuff throughout  Persia.  There  is  the  white  ajid  the  yellow  wheat. 
The  latter  yields  the  finest  flour  that  I  have  ever  seen.  The  natives 
prefer  spring-wheat,  to  that  sown  in  the  autumn,  for  the  quality  of 
its  bread.  Wheat  yields  in  Oroomiah  from  ten  to  thirty  fold — not 
usually  more  than  ten.  Corn  is  raised  in  Persia  only  in  small  quan- 
tities, for  parching.  It  is  sprinkled,  a  stalk  in  a  place,  through  the 
melon-fields.    Barley  is  cultivated  very  extensively  for  horses  and 


RICE  COTTON  TOBACCO  ^FLAX  CUCUMBERS.  429 


buffaloes.  Little  hay  is  laid  up  for  winter — straw,  which  is  cut  very 
fine  in  the  process  of  threshing  being  the  principal  article  of  fodder. 
Rye  is  known  there  little  more  than  as  tares  among  the  wheat.  It 
is  cultivated  in  some  of  the  glens  of  the  Koordish  mountains,  where 
wheat  will  not  grow.  Rice  fields  are  so  extensive  on  the  plain,  as 
to  contribate,  (flooded  as  they  constantly  are  in  summer,)  not  a 
little  to  the  unhealthiness  of  the  climate.  Cotton  is  grown  there 
in  large  quantities,  both  for  domestic  use  and  foreign  trade.  To- 
bacco finds  a  congenial  soil,  and  the  demand  is  great,  all  ages  and 
classes  of  both  sexes  being  devoted  smokers.*  Flax  is  raised  mere- 
ly for  the  oil,  which  is  used  in  paints,  also  like  castor-oil,  for  lights. 
Beans,  onions,  turnips,  beets,  carrots,  cabbages,  and  some  other 
garden  vegetables,  are  cultivated  in  Persia  in  great  abundance  and 
perfection.  So  are  flowers  of  almost  every  description;  but  espe- 
cially the  rose,  to  be  manufactured  into  rose-water,  of  which  the 
higher  classes  are  extremely  fond.  Last,  but  not  least,  cucumbers 
are  a  very  favorite  vegetable  among  the  Persians,  who  eat  them  with 
salt  merely,  and  to  an  amount  that  astounds  an  European.  An  in- 
dividual will  devour  a  peck  at  a  sitting — eating  leisurely,  but  with- 
out cessation,  perhaps  for  hours,  until  all  before  him  are  consumed. 
The  Persians  are  so  fond  of  this  vegetable,  as  often  to  be  seen  with 
a  cucumber  in  their  hands  as  a  nosegay.  Berries  scarcely  occur 
in  Persia.  The  climate  would  doubtless  be  found  congenial,  if 
they  were  introduced.  Lemons  and  oranges  grow  in  the  warm 
provinces  of  Ghilan  and  Mazanderan,  on  the  banks  of  the  Caspian. 

The  Persians  usually  eat  their  fruit  before  the  meal.  When  we 
visit  the  Nestorians,  a  waiter  of  fruit  is  immediately  set  before  us, 
together  with  bread,  cheese,  butter,  honey,  sweetmeats,  elc.  This 
collation  is  not  intended  so  much  to  be  eaten,  as  talked  over — the 
practice  being  to  take  up  a  dish  and  extend  it  to  the  person  to  whom 
you  wish  to  pay  an  attention,  who,  in  return,  touches  your  hand,  or 
the  dish,  with  his  own,  perhaps  takes  a  single  mouthful  and  says, 
"I  thank  you;  may  all  your  life  be  prosperous,  may  God  increase 
your  wealth,  give  you  the  kingdom  of  heaven,  etc."  Mistaking  the 
antepast  for  the  principal  meal,  which  is  not  usually  braught  for- 
ward till  toward  the  close  of  the  visit,  we  repeatedly  committed  the 
mistake,  soon  after  reaching  the  country,  of  eating  from  it  freely, 
particularly,  when  our  appetites  happened  to  be  sharpened,  by  a 
ride  to  a  distant  village.  At  length,  we  were,  on  one  occasion,  re- 
proved and  instructed,  when  committing  this  blunder,  by  overhearing 
our  host,  in  conversation  in  the  native  language,  which  he  did  not 
suppose  we  understood  :  "Are  they  starred  at  home,"  he  inqufred 
of  one  of  the  bishops  who  accompanied  us,  "that  they  eat  so  vora- 
ciously of  the  antepast?"  "Oh  no;"  replied  the  bishop  in  a  hush- 
ing tofit,  "  they  suppose  it  is  the  dinner."  "  Why  don't  you  teach 
them  better,"  continued  our  host?    "I  am  ashamed  to  interrupt 

*  Tlie  J^eslorian  females  do  not  adopt'  tliis  practico ;  nor  do  they  often 
drink  wine. 


430  A  RABBI  EXTEMPORE  PRA.YER  WORK-YABB. 


them  at  the  table,"  replied  the  modest  prelate ;  "they  will  learn  by 
degrees." 

April  11.  Was  visited  by  the  Jewish  Rabbi,  who  at  my  request 
read  Peter's  sermon  on  the  day  of  Pentecost,  Stephen's  dying  appeal 
and  several  other  interesting  portions  of  Scripture.  The  Nestorian 
ecclesiastics  at  length  came  into  my  study  and  joined  issue  in 
the  discussion.  Among  other  passages  of  Scripture,  priest  Dun- 
ka  read  the  fifty-third  chapter  of  Isaiah,  "  Who  hath  believed  our 
report?"  etc.,  and  when  the  Jews  laughed  at  the  idea  of  its  refer- 
ring to  our  Saviour,  the  priest,  at  my  suggestion,  told  them,  '  You 
are  witnesses  this  day,  to  the  truth  of  the  application  of  this  Scrip- 
ture to  the  Messiah,  in  your  rejection  of  him.'  This  unexpected 
appeal  struck  them  with  a  degree  of  solemnity,  which,  however,  was 
soon  succeeded  by  noisy  altercation.  The  Jews  on  one  side  and 
three  Nestorian  bishops  and  a  priest  or  two  on  the  other,  with  their 
ardent  Asiatic  temperament,  found  it  very  difficult  to  keep  cool  on 
so  exciting  a  subject,  even  with  the  occasional  interference  of  Mr. 
Holladay  and  myself  as  moderators.  I  felt  deeply  grieved  with  The 
manifest  blindness  and  hardness  of  the  hearts  of  these  Jews.  The 
arguments  and  passages  of  Scripture  which  we  adduced  seemed 
often  to  confound,  but  failed  to  convince  them. 

April  19.  Priest  Dunka  opened  our  Nestorian  ser^•ice,  to-day, 
with  an  extempore  prayer.  Never,  until  lately,  have  any  Nestorian 
ecclesiastics  attempted  to  pray  extempore  in  public.  I  had  previ- 
ously requested  the  priest  to  consult  the  bishops  on  the  subject, 
which  he  did  and  readily  obtained  their  apj)robation  of  the  measure. 
The  matter  of  his  prayer  was  very  appropriate,  and  the  manner 
was  solemn. 

April  22.  We  were  engaged  in  translating  the  11th  chapter  of 
the  epistle  to  the  Hebrews.  The  passage  relative  to  divine  chas- 
tisements arrested  the  attention  of  priest  Dunka,  who  has  of  late 
suffered  the  loss  of  nearly  all  his  earthly  substance,  when  his  village 
was  plundered  by  the  Koords,  and  been  so  deeply  afflicted  in  the 
death  of  his  wife  and  favorite  brother.  The  priest  artlessly  remark- 
ed, "  Had  it  not  been  for  such  words  as  these,  my  heart  would  have 
been  broken  all  in  pieces,  during  the  last  few  months."  He  and 
priest  Abraham  appear  to  be  in  a  very  delightful  state  of  mind, 
"  growing  in  grace  and  in  the  knowledge  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ." 

May  16.  In  company  with  Mr.  Stocking,  I  visited  the  prince. 
He  conducted  us  back  of  his  palace  to  his  work-yard,  where  many 
and  various  operations  are  in  progress.  Some  of  the  workmen 
were  constructing  a  small  vessel,  or  rather,  a  large  boat,  which  is  to 
be  floated  down  the  river  to  navigate  the  lake.  Others  were  build- 
ing a  china-ware  manufactory.  And  others  still  were  testing  the 
properties  of  different  kinds  of  earth,  which  had  been  collected  from 
divers  places,  some  of  them  a  hundred  miles  distant,  that  the  best 
might  be  selected  for  making  china, — an  art  which  the  prince  hopes 
to  introduce  into  this  part  of  Persia.    His  work-yard  presents,  on 


ARTIZANS  SUMMER-PALACE. 


431 


the  whole,  one  of  the  liveliest  scenes  that  I  have  witnessed  since  I 
left  America.  He  is  expending  an  immense  amount  of  money,  on 
works  of  this  kind;  is  very  enterprising  himself  and  ardently  desi- 
rous of  benefitting  his  countrymen,  by  the  introduction  of  useful 
arts  and  sciences,  as  well  as  by  general  education.  .  Unfortunately, 
however,  he  obtains  but  miserable  assistance.  A  few  strolling  Eu- 
ropeans— Frenchmen  and  Italians,  for  the  m'ost  part — who  profess 
to  know  everything,  but  really  know  little  and  accomplish  still  less, 
are  the  only  professional  artists  he  is  able  to  find.  A  Maltese  cook, 
who  strolled  to  Persia  in  the  employ  of  an  English  traveller,  once 
entered  his  service  as  a  ship-builder  !  The  Maltese  had  sccri  ves- 
sels, which  is  true  of  but  few  Persians.  The  prince  is  so  persever- 
ing, that  there  is  little  doubt  of  his  ultimate  success,  in  introducing 
important  improvements.  But  every  rose,  in  this  fallen  world,  has 
its  thorns.  The  strollina-  adventurers  who  flock  around  this  inter- 
esting  man  are  all  Papists, — not  probably  too  virtuous  in  their  char- 
acter and  habits,  and  seldom  wanting  in  zeal  for  the  interests  of 
Rome.  What  success  might  crown  the  worthy  efforts  of  Malelc 
Kasem  Meerza,  and  what  wood  result  to  Zion  as  well  as  to  the  tern- 
poral  interests  of  Persia,  were  their  places  to  be  occupied  by  pious, 
eneroretic,  American  mechanics  ! 

Maf/  21.  Received  the  following  note  in  English  from  the 
prince-governor. 

"His  Royal  Highness  will  be  very  much  pleased,  if  all  the  Amer- 
ican gentlemen,  with  (heir  ladies,  accept  a  tea,  according  to  the  Eu- 
ropean way;  and  after,  a  breakfast,  according  to  the  Persian  way, 
to-morrow  morning.  Friday,  22nd  of  May,  at  the  garden,  Seeak- 
hoosh." 

Maj/  22.  In  compliance  with  the  above  invitation,  the  members 
of  our  mission  and  three  of  the  ladies,  (the  other  being  ill,)  visited 
the  prince  at  his  summer-palace  in  the  garden,  Seeakhoosh,  which 
is  about  a  mile  south-east  of  the  city.  This  garden  is  a  grand  plot 
of  ground,  a  mile  and  a  half  long  and  about  fifty  rods  wide,  regular- 
ly laid  out,  with  a  broad  central  avenue,  side-walks,  and,  at  regular 
intervals,  cross  allies, — all  studded  with  lofty  sycamores,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  a  few  feei  from  each  other,  and  lined  with  rose-bushes  and 
other  small  shrubbery.  The  plot  descends  from  each  end  to  the 
centre,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  Shaker  chai,  city  river.  At  the 
west  end,  at  the  head  of  the  central  avenue,  is  a  splendid  palace, 
with  its  artificial  pond,  fountains  and  arbors.  Our  entertainment 
was  in  this  palace.  It  was  liberal  and  in  excellent  taste.  It  had 
nothing  of  "  the  Persian  way,"  except  that  we  sat  upon  the  floor. 
His  Royal  Highness  treated  us  with  all  the  respect  and  kindness 
that  he  could  have  shown  to  brothers  and  sisters.  At  his  breakfast, 
besides  our  party,  was  an  Italian  doctor,  who  serves  him  in  the 
quadruple  capacity  of  physician,  privy  counsellor,  private  secretary 


432  ENTERTAINMENT — PREACHING  HELPERS. 


and  member  of  his  council  ;*  a  French  adventurer  and  his  wife ; 
Moosein  Meerza,  the  prince's  nephew,  and  a  Muhammedan  noble. 
The  most  interesting  circumstance  attending  the  meal,  was  the  fact, 
that  at  its  commencement,  the  prince,  knowing  it  to  be  our  custom, 
requested  me  to  implore  a  blessing.  I  did  so;  and  while  I  do  not 
record  the  circumstance  as  indicating  any  deep  religious  interest  in 
him,  it  certainly  evinces  a  liberality  of  sentiment,  (especially  while 
there  were  other  Muhammedans  at  his  table,)  which  is  at  present  a 
most  cheering  sign  of  the  times  among  the  Mussulmans  of  this 
country.  All  were  attentive  while  the  blessing  was  implored,  except 
the  doctor,  who  with  a  mingled  tone  of  levity  and  profaneness  re- 
peated, at  the  same  time,  a  Muhammedan  invocation,  not  apparent- 
ly from  disrespect  to  us,  so  much  as  to  improve  the  opportunity  thus 
offered  to  remind  us  of  his  daring  infidelity,  or  perhaps  atheism, 
which  he  often  and  loudly  avows.  How  long  must  the  Muhamme- 
dans of  Persia  be  abandoned  to  the  influence  and  instruction  of  such 
civilized  Europeans  ? 

May  24.  The  Sabbath.  In  the  morning,  I  went  to  G6og-tapa, 
and  preached  to  about  three  hundred  Nestorians  in  their  church,  a 
larger  number  than  I  have  before  addressed  since  I  left  America. 
It  is  impossible  adequately  to  describe  the  interest  of  preaching  to 
such  a  congregation.  Every  eye  was  fixed  upon  the  speaker  and 
every  ear  intent  to  catch  the  words  as  they  fell  from  his  lips.  The 
audience  was  composed  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages  from  small  child- 
ren up  to  tottering  decrepitude.  Warmed,  animated  and  affected 
by  the  impressive  scene  before  me,  I  enjoyed  a  degree  of  freedom 
in  preaching  in  the  native  language  which  I  have  never  felt  before. 
Seldom,  however,  have  I  been  so  deeply  humbled  and  mortified  as 
when,  on  our  way  home,  priest  Abraham  told  me,  that  the  Nesto- 
rians are  giving  me  the  cognomen  of  Paul  the  apostle.  We  now 
realize  the  advantage  of  having  early  directed  our  efforts  to  the  in- 
struction and  benefit  of  influential  ecclesiastics.  Enlightened,  and 
some  of  them,  as  we  trust,  really  pious,  they  are  not  only  ready  to 
allow  us  to  preach  in  their  churches,  but  urge  us  to  do  so,  and  are 
forward  themselves  in  every  good  work ;  and  their  peo(3le  receive 
the  word  with  gladness,  while  we  thus  act  in  concert  with  their  own 
clergy.  These  ecclesiastics,  who  have  been  a  long  time  with  us, 
now  form,  if  we  may  so  say,  a  veteran,  disciplined  corps,  on  whom 
we  can  rely  for  efficient  agency  in  almost  any  kind  of  service.  How 
different  would  the  case  be,  were  many  times  their  number  of  the 
lay  population  equally  interested  in  our  object  and  labors,  but  these 
native  clergy  arrayed  against  us.  Our  field  is  now  opening  and  the 
harvest  maturing,  in  a  manner  more  rapid  than  at  any  former  pe- 
riod. 

*  Tliis  council  consists  often  persons,  by  whom  minor  business  is  transac- 
ted according  to  the  vote  of  the  majority, — an  innovation  on  the  arbitrary 
usages  of  Persian  governors,  though  not  much  improvement  considering  tlie 
character  of  somo  of  its  mouiijers. 


RAIN  CELIBACY  STUDY  OF  HEBREW. 


433 


May  28.  The  Mdihararaedans  of  Oroomiab  set  apart  this  day  as 
a  season  of  special  prayer  for  raia,  the  spring  having  been  very  dry, 
the  grain  and  other  crops  having  suffered  already,  and  the  prospect 
of  sufficient  water  in  the  streams  to  flood  the  fields  being  very  doubt- 
ful. I  inquired  of  our  Mussulman  scholars  by  whom  the  day  was 
designated,  and  they  replied,  the  astrologers,  who,  by  consulting 
their  books,  ascertained  it  to  be  auspicious  for  the  object. 

May  29.  Cloudy  weather  and  some  rain.  Had  the  prayers  of 
the  Miihammedans,  yesterday,  any  influence  in  the  change  ?  '*  Seest 
thou  how  Ahab  humbleth  himself?  Because  he  humbleth  himself 
before  me,  I  will  not  bring  the  evil  in  his  days."*  But  while  God 
may  send  rain  on  the  unjust  and  avert  temporal  evils,  in  answer  to 
their  prayers,  we  know  that  it  is  onJy^o  the  justified  through  faith 
in  the  blood  of  Christ,  that  he  will  grant  the  blessings  of  salvation. 

May  30.  Mar  Joseph  arrived  from  a  visit  to  the  Patriarch.  He 
returns  much  displeased  with  Mar  Shimon,  who  refused  to  give  him 
a  diocese  as  he  desired  and  had  anticipated.  The  poor  old  man 
now  declares,  that  were  'he  young,  he  would  marry  a  wife  and  eat 
meat  to  his  heart's  content,  as  a  retaliation  on  the  Patriarch.  "For 
what  do  I  gain,"  he  asks,  "by  my  celibacy  and  abstinence,  while 
Mar  Shimon  gives  me  no  villages  T'  But  as  he  is  now  old,  he  wisely 
judges  that  he  should  merely  increase  his  own  troubles  by  marry- 
ing; and  he  has  so  long  accustomed  himself  to  a  vegetable  diet, 
that  it  costs  him  little  self-denial  to  continue  to  adhere  to  it.  The 
good  bishop  makes  no  secret  of  the  motives  that  prompt  his  monas- 
ticisra ;  and  among  all  the  monastic  hordes  of  Papal  Europe  and 
the  world,  are  there  more  devotees  than  there  were  righteous  men 
in  Sodom,  who  are  not  impelled  to  their  asceticism,  by  laziness,  or 
the  hope  of  aggrandizement  1 

June  4.  The  Rev.  Wm.  Glen,  who  is  with  ua  on  a  visit,  attend- 
ed the  recitation  of  my  class  in  Hebrew,  which  consists  of  seven 
Nestorian  ecclesiastics.  He  expressed  himself  equally  gratified  and 
astonished  to  find  them  such  proficients  in  that  language.  The 
Hebrew  and  Syriac  being  cognate  tongues,  the  Nestorians  find  it 
very*  easy  to  acquire  the  former ;  and  their  oriental  organs  enable 
them  to  pronounce  it  far  more  easily  and  perfectly  than  European 
scholars.  Much  may  result  for  the  cultivation  of  the  Hebrew  from 
this  obscure,  humble  beginning,  by  a  people  who  possess  such  pe- 
culiar facilities  for  acquiring  it.  And  important  advantages  will, 
we  trust,  accrue  to  the  Nestorians,  from  so  many  of  their  clergy 
drawing  a  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures  directly  from  the  fountain. 
In  conversation  with  the  prince-governor,  the  other  day,  who  is  a 
remarkable  linguist  for  an  Asiatic,  I  inquired  of  him  what  language 
the  Persians  consider  to  be  the  oldest ;  and  he  replied,  Hebrew. 
Their  religious  prejudices  would  naturally  lead  them  to  award  this 
honor  to  the  Arabic,  the  language  of  their  Koran  and  other  sacred 
literature. 


•  1  Kings  21:  29. 

55 


434 


A  DISCUSSION  THE  WATCHMAN. 


Sr.pt.  6.    Preached  again  at  GSog-tapa.    When  I  arrived,  the 
bishop  and  a  large  number  of  the  villagers  were  collected  in  the 
shady  side  of  the  church,  engaged  in  earnest  conversation.    As  I 
approached,  Mar  Elias  said  to  the  Melik  (chief)  of  the  village, 
"  Why  are  you  angry  ?"    I  came  up  and  gave  the  bishop  my  salu- 
tation, ShUdm  alokhoon — peace  be  with  you — vi'hich  he  rose  and 
cordially  returned ;  but  when  I  inquired  after  the  health  of  his 
household,  he  relapsed  into  his  excited  state  and  answered,  "  My 
household  are  in  a  wretched  condition, — buried  in  wine  drinking; 
and  so  is  the  Melik  and  this  priest  and  that  one,  (pointing  to  them 
as  they  stood  in  the  company) ;  I  tell  them  not  to  drink,  and  they 
promise  fairly  but  still  drink  ;  are  they  not  liars  7    They  say,  'the 
Russians,  that  great  and  powerful  nation,  drink  ;  and  may  we  not 
safely  follow  them  ?'    I  tell  them,  no ;  follow  Jesus  Christ;  he  is 
in  the  midst  of  us  by  his  word."    Upon  this,  the  Melik  interposed, 
in  a  high,  boisterous  tone,  "Did  not  Jesus  Chrjst  drink  wine  and 
make  it  too  ?"    The  priests  were  much  chagrined  and  remonstrated 
with  the  disputants,  telling  them  that  it  was  not  the  place,  nor  the 
time,  for  wrangling.    I  at  length  sat  down  and  invited  the  bishop 
to  sit  on  one  hand  and  the  Melik  on  the  other,  which  they  did  and 
quiet  was  thus  restored.    The  scene  was  interesting  and  in  no 
small  degree  amusing.    This  bishop  was  formerly  given  to  much 
wine ;  but  since  coming  under  our  influence,  he  has  nearly  broken 
off;  and  his  warm  temperament  and,  I  hope,  some  measure  of  pious 
feeling,  can  now  so  ill  brook  continued  indulgence  of  the  bad  prac- 
tice in  his  priests  and  people,  that  he  interposes  his  episcopal  pre- 
rogatives in  quite  an  authoritative  manner.    I  did  not  think  it  expe- 
dient to  take  part  in  the  noisy  discussion  on  the  spot;  but  the  por- 
tion of  Scripture,  the  33rd  chapter  of  Ezekiel,  on  which  I  remark- 
ed, in  the  meeting,  presented  a  good  opportunity  of  reminding  the 
audience,  that  the  "  watchman  "  ought  and  must  blow  his  trumpet, 
— that  the  good  watchman  would  do  this,  at  all  hazards ;  that  it 
was  for  their  interest  and  salvation,  that  he  should  blow  it  faithful- 
ly,— and  I  pointed  out  to  them  the  unreasonableness  of  their  being 
angry  at  the  watchman's  fidelity  and  rejecting  his  call.    They  felt 
the  application  of  the  subject  without  my  formally  making  it,  and 
left  the  church  quite  satisfied  with  the  plain-dealing  of  their  good 
bishop,  on  the  subject  of  their  intemperance. 


EARTHQUAKES  MOUNTAINS  SAMEIL. 


435 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

JOURNAL:  SEPTEMBER— DECEMBER,  1840. 

A  SHOCK  of  an  earthquake  occurred,  to-day,  Sept.  14.  A  shock 
occurred  also  last  July,  which,  by  its  peculiarly  rolling  motion, 
made  us  very  dizzy.  Earthquakes  are  rare  here,  but  frequent  in 
Tabreez,  and  some  other  places  in  the  region.  The  one  in  July 
was  very  severe,  in  the  vicinity  of  Mt.  Ararat,  so  much  so,  that  the 
towns  of  Erivan  and  Nakchevan  were  much  injured  by  it.  Mt. 
Ararat  appears  to  be  their  common  centre. 

Sept..  15.  In  recitation  in  geography,  in  our  Mussulman  school, 
I  had  occasion  to  speak  of  volcanoes  in  the  Andes,  which  suggested 
their  supposed  connexion  with  earthquakes,  and  the  one  that  oc- 
curred last  evening  was  mentioned.  One  of  the  boys  gave  a  Mus- 
sulman theory  on  the  general  subject,  which  is,  that  the  great  bull, 
on  which  the  earth  stands,  beiug  stung  by  a  fly,  angrily  shakes  his 
head  and  thus  causes  the  earthquake.  The  other  boys  laughed  at 
this  theory  and  pronounced  it  the  height  of  folly. 

Sept.  16.  We  rode  to  the  summit  of  Seir,  one  of  the  high  moun- 
tains back  of  Oroomiah,  from  which  we  enjoyed  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  surrounding  country ;  and  in  addition  to  what  we  had  before 
seen,  were  able  to  survey,  from  this  height,  a  large  portion  of 
Koordistan,  that  lay  stretched  out  before  us  like  a  sea  of  mountains, 
being  apparently  little  else  than  peaks  and  ridges,  with  alternate 
ravines,  where  absolute  sterility  seemed  Jo  reign,  except  here  and 
there  a  verdant  patch  in  the  deep  glens.  Perpetual  snow  among 
the  ledges  of  some  of  the  neighboring  mountains,  lay  just  about  on 
a  level  with  ourselves,  which  is  seen  from  our  windows  in  the  city, 
all  the  year.  The  fact  that  snow  remains  during  our  summers  at 
so  small  an  elevation  above  the  plain,  shows  the  country  itself  to  be 
very  high.  The  same  is  also  evident  from  the  coolness  of  the  nights 
compared  with  the  days,  in  this  part  of  Persia.  The  heat  of  day, 
in  this  clear  atmosphere,  is  stated  by  an  English  traveller  to  be  even 
more  penetrating  than  that  of  India  ;  while  in  the  shade  it  is  com- 
fortably cool^  and  a  sensible  chill  is  felt  as  soon  as  the  sun  retires 
at  evening.  From  this  peculiarity  of  the  climate,  health  is  almost 
sure  to  be  sacrificed,  unless  a  large  amount  of  clothing  be  worn  at 
all  seasons.  Strong  winds  are  much  less  prevalent  at  Oroomiah 
than  at  Tabreez.  There  is  a  light  breeze  daily  from  the  lake  which 
is  very  agreeable.  The  Sham  yil  (Turkish)  South  wind,  (Sameil,) 
blows  occasionally  with  considerable  violence,  from  the  south-west, 
filling  the  atmosphere  with  a  dusty  haziness,  inducing  uneasiness, 
lassitude  and  headache,  and  sometimes  even  injuring  the  crops; 
though  the  strength  and  noxiousness  with  which  this  wind  is  charged, 


436         EXCURSION  WITH  PUPILS  PERSIAN  SCHOOLS. 

■alien  it  leaves  the  Arabian  desert,  are  much  broken  and  neutralized, 
by  the  long  distance,  and  the  lofty,  snowy  Koordish  ranges,  over 
which  it  passes,  before  reaching  Oroomiah.  On  the  mountaiii 
which  we  ascended,  a  herdsman  had  been  murdered  and  a  part  of 
the  herd  driven  off  by  the  Koords,  two  or  three  days  before.  The 
herdsman  was  found  after  considerable  search,  with  his  head  cut 
off  and  his  feet  bound  together  ! 

Sept.  17.  Priest  Dunka  gives  an  animating  account  of  the  man- 
ner in  which  many  of  the  mountain  villagers  listened  to  his  preach- 
ing during  a  recent  vacation  that  he  spent  at  his  home.  In  some 
instances,  they  gladly  left  their  work  and  assembled  to  hear  the  word 
of  life  ;  and  when  dismissed,  would  still  importune  him, — "  Give  u& 
q,  little  more  of  the  good  word  of  the  Lord  and  then  we  will  go  to 
our  business ;  never  before  have  we  heard  such  preaching." 

Sept.  25.  We  yielded  to  the  importunity  of  some  of  our  Moham- 
medan scholars,  and  rode  out  about  twelve  miles  from  the  city  to 
Armoot-aghaj,  a  village  belonging  to  their  father,  to  be  their  guests. 
On  Friday,  the  Mussulman  Sabbath,  we  suspend  our  school,  as  that 
class  so  generally  regard  it  as  their  holiday,  that  it  would  be  difficult 
to  confine  the  scholars  to  their  studies.  The  fine  weather,  the 
charming  country  over  which  we  rode,  and  the  youthful  glee  and 
buoyancy  of  the  scholars,  all  contributed  to  render  the  recreation 
agreeable;  but  no  circumstance  gave  it  so  much  interest  as  the  at- 
tention which  the  Muhammedan  boys  paid  to  some  of  the  young 
Nestorians,  who,  by  the  urgent  request  of  the  former,  went  with  us, 
and  were  treated  by  them  as  equals  in  their  playful  gambols  on  the 
road,  and  seated  at  the  same  table  with  themselves  and  with  us,  at 
their  liberal  dinner  in  the  village-  Such  attentions,  shown  by  young 
Mohammedans  of  rank  to  native  Christians,  are  quite  new  in  this 
country  and,  doubtless,  result  to  a  great  extent  from  the  influence  of 
our  Muhammedan  school. 

I  have  nowhere  described  the  native  Persian  schools 'and  colleges. 
Of  the  common  schools,  Malcolm  remarks,  "  Almost  all  the  trades- 
men and  many  of  the  mechaaics  have  received  some  education. 
There  are  schools  in  every  town  and  city,  in  which  the  rudiments  of 
Persian  and  Arabic  are  taught. ,  The  child  who  attends  one  of  them, 
after  learning  the  alphabet,  is  made,  as  a  religious  duty,  to  read  the 
Koran  in  Arabic ;  which  he  usually  does,  without  understanding  a 
word  of  it.  He  is  next  taught  to  read  some  fables  iu  Persian  and 
to  write  a  legible  hand.  Here  his  education  commonly  ends;  and 
unless  he  is  led  by  his  inclination  to  study,  or  his  occupation  re- 
quires that  he  should  practise  what  he  has  learnt,  his  lessons  are 
soon  forgotten.  But  this  education,  slight  and  superficial  as  it  may 
seem,  has  the  effect  of  changing  the  habits,  and  of  introducing  a  de- 
gree of  refinement  among  those  who  use  it,  unknown  to  their  ruder 
countrymen."*  It  is  a  grateful  sight  to  witness  the  beautiful  Persian 


*  Hist,  of  Persia,  Vol.  II.  p.  422. 


DISCIPLINE  COLLEGES  LAW  HUNTING. 


437 


children,  boys  and  girls,  with  their  satchels  on  their  arms,  going  to 
school.  They  are,  however,  as  Sir  J.  Malcolm  further  remarks,  "  of- 
ten under  the  management  of  ignorant  pedants."  These  peda- 
gogues, who  are  usually  from  the  lower  classes  of  the  Moollahs,  or 
'the  candidates  for  that  profession,  sit  in  the  school-room,  writing 
lessons  or  letters,  or  copying  books,  upon  the  knee,  while  the  scholars 
are  scattered  promiscuously  on  the  rush-mat  over  the  room,  all  read- 
ing aloud — «ach  a  different  lesson — at  the  same  time;  the  learners 
constantly  swinging  the  body  back  and  forth  as  they  sit  upon  the 
knees  and  feet,  to  keep  from  weariness,  and  the  whole  presenting  a 
scene  of  singular  confusion.  The  master,  however,  with  his  long 
rod  always  by  his  side — no  despiser  of  Solomon's  counsel — deals 
out  a  bountiful  quota  of  stripes  for  anything  in  his  view  approach- 
ing to  irregularity ;  and  the  indomitables  are  not  unfrequeiitly  bound 
to  the  small  Fallek  (whipping-pole)  which  is  kept  near  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  bastinadoed,  though  mere  children.  Imperfect  as  is  their 
education,  however,  they  do,  as  above  suggested,  acquire  an  ease 
and  grace  of  manners,  a  propriety  of  deportment  and  polish  of  ex- 
pression, which  they  carry  with  them  through  life. 

The  higher  Maddresschs,  or  colleges,  formerly  so  renowned  in 
Persia,  are  at  present,  for  the  most  part,  in  a  low  state — another 
proof  of  the  waning  tendency  of  Muhammedism.  The  edifices 
usually  resemble  the  caravanserais,  in  the  apartments  of  which  the 
students  and  professors  often  reside.  Most  of  them  are  in  a  di- 
lapidated state,  and  present  a  cheerless  aspect.  Arabic  and  Persian 
literature  and  the  Miihammedan  law  and  religion  are  studied  in 
them.  The  profession  of  law,  in  Persia,  is  generally  united  with 
that  of  religion,  in  the  Moollahs.  A  civil  document,  attested  by  the 
seal  of  any  respectable  Moollah  is  valid,  though  always  liable  to  be 
overruled  by  the  Sheikh  ul  Islam,  chief  of  Islamism,  (preeminently, 
of  the  law,)  whose  office  it  is  to  decide  what  is  law,  in  a  given  case, 
and  is,  in  fact,  the  supreme  court ;  though  the  cdzee,  (cadi)  justice 
of  the  peace,  and  still  more,  the  higher  magistrates,  do  not  always 
pay  greater  deference  to  his  august  decision,  than  some  rulers  in 
America  pay  to  the  judiciary  tribunal.  That  might  should  often 
be  right,  in  despotic,  Muhammedan  Persia,  is  of  course,  however, 
less  a  matter  of  wonder,  than  in  a  christian  republic. 

Oct.  2.  The  prince-governor  sent  us  an  invitation  to  accompa- 
ny him  on  a  hunting  excursion.  As  several  of  our  number  had 
never  witnessed  a  Persian  hunt,  and  we  deemed  it  of  some  import- 
ance to  gratify  His  Royal  Highness,  to  whom  we  are  so  much  in- 
debted, we  accepted  the  invitation.  Some  twenty  or  thirty  Khans, 
begs  and  servants  composed  his  retinue.  The  prince  himself  and 
two  or  three  of  the  highest  nobles  of  the  party  carried  falcons, 
(fowling  hawks,)  in  their  hands,  or  rather,  on  them.  The  right 
hand  is  covered  with  a  glove — the  only  case  in  which  the  Persians 
make  use  of  gloves,  except  as  a  few  have  recently  borrowed  the 
practice  from  Europeans — and  the  hawk  is  taught  to  perch  itself 


438 


FALCONS  NETS  THE  ANTELOPE. 


upon  the  hand  thus  secured,  being  held  there  by  small  leather 
strings  noosed  about  its  legs.  The  party  ride  over  the  fields  in 
promiscuous  order,  except  that  no  one  may  advance  in  front  of  the 
prince,  or  the  Magnus  Apollo,  whatever  be  his  rank,  and  as  a 
quail  or  other  bird  is  started  up,  the  hawk  is  let  fly  from  the  hand- 
and  darts  in  an  instant  upon  the  prey,  grasps  it  gracefully  in  its 
claws,  lights,  and  begins  to  devour  it,  when  a  servant  quickly  gal- 
lops up,  dismounts  and  seizes  the  game,  giving  the  hawk  the  head, 
however,  as  an  incentive  to  future  effort.  If  the  pursuer  is  expert 
enough,  he  obtains  the  bird  uninjured,  and  deposites  it  in  his  sack 
alive.  When  the  hawk  fails  of  taking  the  game,  he  flies  away  in 
apparent  mortification,  and  lights  leisurely  on  some  distant  tree; 
but  a  very  small  bell,  attached  to  the  strings  on  his  legs,  soon  re- 
veals his  retreat  to  a  pursuer,  who,  by  throwing  up  a  chicken  kept 
ready  for  the  purpose,  brings  him  down  to  the  ground  ;  and  as  he 
commences  feeding  upon  tlie  bait,  he  is  easily  retaken.  These 
fovvling-hawks  become  great  favorites  with  their  masters  and  receive 
dignified  names.  A  sapient  one  now  in  possession  of  the  prince,  is 
called  the  Mussulman,  because,  in  devouring  his  prey,  he  leaves  the 
blood.  Thirty  quails  constituted  the  sum  of  our  spoil,  to-day,  one- 
half  of  which  the  prince  generously  presented  to  us,  though  we  had 
been  idle  spectators. 

The  peasants  in  Persia  hunt  quails  by  means  of  a  net,  which  is 
carried  in  the  hands  and  thrown  adroitly  over  the  game,  while 
skulking  in  the  grass  or  the  stubble.  To  this  end,  however,  they 
must  resort  to  a  measure  of  stratagem.  Two  sticks,  about  four  feet 
long,  with  one  end  of  each  set  in  the  girdle,  rise  above  the  head  and 
project  forward,  over  which  a  piece  of  cotton  cloth,  or  the  skirt  of 
the  garment,  being  thrown,  gives  to  the  hunter  somewhat  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  horned  animal.  And  as  he  moves  slowly  through  the 
field,  the  quails  merely  attempt  to  hide  themselves  for  the  moment, 
until  the  supposed  animal  shall  pass  by,  unconscious  of  their  danger 
till  caught  under  the  net,  which  the  sportsman  must,  however,  keep 
carefully  concealed  till  the  instant  he  throws  it;  for  "surely  in 
vain  is  the.  net  spread  in  sight  of  any  bird." 

Hawks  are  used  also  in  hunting  wild  animals.  Says  Malcolm, 
"The  favorite  game  is  the  deer,  of  which  there  are  several  kinds. 
That  usually  hunted  is  the  antelope,  which  may  be  termed  the 
fleetest  of  quadrupeds.  A  common  mode  of  hunting  them  is  with 
hawks  and  dogs,  which  are  trained  to  aid  each  other.  Two  hawks 
are  flown,  when  the  deer  is  at  a  great  distance ;  they  soon  reach  it, 
and  strike,  one  after  the  other,  at  its  head.  This  annoys  and  inter- 
rupts the  flight  of  the  animal  so  effectually,  that  the  dogs  come  up 
and  seize  it.  It  is  also  usual  to  surround  the  antelope  with  a  num- 
ber of  horsemen,  each  holding  a  dog  in  a  slip.  When  the  antelope 
tries  to  escape,  the  aim  is  to  try  to  intercept  it ;  and  though  no  dog, 
however  swift,  can  reach  it  at  the  commencement  of  the  chase,  it 
is  tired  out,  by  fresh  ones  being  continually  slipped.    In  this  mode 


BEASTS  OF  PREY  ENGLISH  OFFICERS. 


439 


of  hunting,  the  object  is  to  bring  the  game  near  the  king,  who  com- 
monly holds  a  favorite  dog  in  a  slip.  Hawking  is  a  favorite  amuse- 
ment. Bustards,  hares,  herons  and  partridges,  are  the  usual  game. 
In  this  sport,  the  king  generally  carries  a  hawk  in  his  hand.  Shoot- 
ing game  is  also  very  common.  The  Persiaji  soldiers  are  excellent 
marksmen ;  and  this  is  an  accomplishment,  which  it  is  a  disgrace 
not  to  possess."* 

Many  Persian  nobles  spend  half  their  days  on  the  chase.  Wild 
hogs  and  wild  goats  are  also  among  their  game  on  the  mountains. 
Their  fowling-pieces  are  sometimes  furnished  with  a  forked  fulcrum, 
about  a  foot  from  the  muzzle,  which  turns  upon  a  pivot,  and  can 
be  instantly  set  in  the  ground.  Their  aim,  however  quickly  taken 
with  that  apparatus,  is  almost  sure  to  be  successful.  Of  beasts  of 
prey  in  northern  Persia,  the  wolf,  bear  and  hyena  are  the  principal. 
The  wolf  is  very  common — so  much  so,  that  it  comes  down  from 
the  mountains  by  night,  and  sometimes  even  takes  away  children 
from  their  couches,  on  the  roofs  of  the  houses,  in  the  villages  on  the 
plain.  The  tiger  and  lion  are  found  fiirther  south ;  but  they  are  not  so 
large  nor  ferocious  as  those  of  more  tropical  climes. — Englishmen, 
in  Persia,  are  about  as  fond  of  hunting  as  the  native  inhabitants; 
and  the  practice  does  much  to  invest  them  with  that  hardihood  of 
character  for  which  British  officers  in  the  East  are  so  celebrated. 
Col.  B.,  a  brother  of  lady  Campbell,  on  one  occasion,  rode  up  from 
Tehran  to  Tabreez,  with  chappar  horses,  a  distance  of  four  hun- 
dred miles,  in  three  and  a  half  days ;  and  the  morning  after  his  ar- 
rival, he  was  out  hunting  before  breakfast.  .As  he  advanced  home- 
ward, in  crossing  the  mountains  of  Armenia,  the  snow  was  so  deep, 
that  he  was  obliged  to  spread  his  carpets  for  his  horse  to  walk  over 
the  drifts  upon  them,  often  for  long  distances;  and  this  was  only 
matter  of  amusement  to  him.  Such  is  the  training,  which,  together 
with  the  love  and  the  pride  of  country  that  grow  up  with  them  as  a 
part  of  their  bemg,  nerves  Englishmen  in  the  East,  for  their  arduous 
service,  and  holds  them  so  firm  on  the  field,  in  the  deadly  encounter. 

Sept.  26.  Two  European  Papists  called  on  us,  one  of  whom  is 
engaged  in  a  school  at  Tabreez;  and  the  other,  as  they  stated,  is 
destined  to  Isfahan  to  join  a  third,  already  in  that  city.  Their  ap- 
pearance is  very  urbane  and  friendly ;  but  we  have  had  open  de- 
monstration, that  they  will  injure  us  if  they  can.  Nothing  saddens 
my  heart  and  fills  me  with  apprehension  for  the  prosperity  of  Zion 
in  Persia,  like  the  presence  of  these  men.  They  are  as  artful  as 
they  are  ill-designing, — ready  to  adapt  themselves  to  all  varieties  of 
character  and  circumstances.  It  was  in  the  autumn  of  1838,  that 
two  Papists  first  made  their  appearance  at  Oroomiah  since  we  came 
here, — one  of  them  an  Italian  priest,  and  the  other,  professedly,  a 
French  antiquarian.  They  stated  their  object  to  be  simply  that  of 
travellers  on  their  way  to  Bagdad.  The  principal  was  the  French- 
man, who  gave  us  his  address  as  M.  B.,  with  a  somewhat  pompous 


*  Hist,  of  Persia,  Vol.  II.  p.  307. 


440 


KOMISH  EMISSARIES  SECDLAK  PAPISTS. 


String  of  honorary  titles,  and  attempted  to  astonish  us  with  an  ac- 
count of  his  antiquarian  researches  in  Turkey.  This  same  learned 
antiquarian,  however,  proves  to  be  a  French  Catholic  priest,  of  the 
Lazarist  order.  And  while  at  Oroomiah  at  that  time,  he  so  far  put 
in  operation  his  Jesuistical  plans,  as  to  dupe  Mar  Gabriel,  and 
would  have  made  sure  of  him,  as  we  have  seen,  had  we  not,  some 
time  afterward,  discovered  the  plot  and  warned  the  bishop  of  his 
danger. 

A  year  subsequently  he  visited  Oroomiah  again,  to  confer  with 
the  bishop  whom  he  supposed  he  had  fully  secured  through  corres- 
pondence, by  promises  to  give  him  money  and  obtain  for  him  worldly 
aggrandizement,  should  he  second  his  designs.  Several  of  his  let- 
ters addressed  to  Mar  Gabriel  have  since  fallen  into  my  hands. 
They  are  very  amusing  documents.  The  bishop  being  quite  a 
young  man  and  withaJ  extremely  vain,  the  Frenchman,  in  the  true 
spirit  of  his  profession,  would  of  course  address  his  vanity,  as  the 
most  vulnerable  point  in  his  character,  in  the  hope  of  thus  gaining 
him.  The  following  is  a  specimen  which  I  copied  from  the  com- 
mencement of  one  of  the  letters.  "  To  the  honorable,  exalted  and 
dignified  Mar  Gabriel,  metropolitan  of  the  country  of  Oroomiah, 
who  in  exaltation  is  above  all."  He  also  states  the  ineffable  satis- 
faction he  should  feel,  in  approaching  and  bowing  before  so  venera- 
ble a  personage  and  being  honored  with  permission  to  kis^  his  feet. 
The  conception  of  this  homage  is  consummately  ludicrous  to  us, 
especially  as  we  have  often  seen  this  same  boyish  bishop  barefoot, — 
his  feet  being  in  a  condition  to  deter,  it  should  seem,  the  devotion 
of  even  monkish  piety,  from  the  penance  of  kissing  them.  Such 
might,  however,  be  the  most  effectual  method  of  inflating  the  young 
man's  vanity  and  upsetting  him,  and  just  this  was  the  learned  anti- 
quarian's object.  In  his  second  visit  to  our  city,  in  order  that  he 
might  take  the  better  with  the  Persians,  who  are  very  fond  of  show, 
instead  of  wearing  the  habiliments  of  a  Lazarist  monk,  or  the  dress 
of  a  private  gentleman,  he  assumed  the  garb  of  a  military  officer — 
sword  and  epaulette — and  proclaimed  himself  a  French  colonel! 

These  subtle  foes  become  the  more  formidable,  from  their  alliance 
with  the  numerous  secular  Papists,  who,  banished  for  crime  or  stroll- 
ing for  adventure,  from  their  homes  in  Europe,  seek  a  living  in  Per- 
sia; and  though  many  of  them  are  avowed  infidels  and  atheists,  they 
often  show  an  interest  and  an  activity,  in  promoting  the  Papal  cause, 
that  vie  with  the  zeal  of  a  Jesuit;  and  as  they  sometimes  obtain 
places  of  influence  in  connexion  with  government,  their  power  and 
opportunity  to  advance  that  cause  are  far  greater  than  those  of  the 
Jesuits  themselves.  Their  singular  devotion  to  Papacy  may  arise 
from  a  superstitious  idea — for  infidels  and  atheists  are  often  among 
the  most  superstitious — that  they  shall  thus  atone  for  accumulated 
crimes;  and  such  a  reward  may  not  improbably  be  promised  to 
them  by  the  priesthood.  We  have  a  striking  example  of  these  Pa- 
pal coadjutors  and  their  eflforts  at  Oroomiah.    He  is  an  Italian 


A  EUROPEAN  COUNSELLOR. 


441 


quack,  who  has  been  an  outlaw  from  his  country  twenty  years ; 
whose  adventures  in  the  interval  are  too  fearful  to  repeat,  though 
he  usually  entertains  his  guests  with  a  narration  of  them,  and  prides 
himself  so  much  on  his  boasted  infidelity,  that  he  avows  his  purpose 
of  oriffinatinff  a  new  religion,  denouncing  that  of  the  Bible  as  anti- 
quated  and  obsolete.  Still  this  same  man  is  a  zealous  Papal  agent. 
Being  a  person  of  considerable  intelligence  and  a  confident  insinua- 
ting address,  he  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  place  in  the  service  of  the 
prince-governor  ofOroomiah,  first  as  his  physician,  but  subsequently, 
by  his  subtle  and  artful  management,  as  governor,  under  the  prince, 
of  the  christian  part  of  the  population.  No  position  could  have 
given  him  more  power  to  embarrass  us,  in  our  missionary  work ; 
and  the  prince  of  darkness,  it  should  seem,  could  have  selected  no 
more  practised  and  wily  adversary  to  occupy  that  advantageous  po- 
sition. No  sooner  had  he  assumed  his  office  as  governor  of  the 
Nestorians,  than  he  commenced  a  course  of  open  opposition  to  us 
and  a  vigorous  system  of  efforts  to  make  proselytes  to  Romanism. 
He  threatened  all  the  Nestorian  ecclesiastics  who  were  in  our  em- 
ploy, as  teachers  and  helpers,  with  fines,  if  they  continued  their 
connexion  with  us,  promising  diminution  of  their  heavy  taxes,  free- 
dom from  military  enrolment*  and  other  immunities  to  as  many  as 
would  become  Papists.  In  entering  upon  this  oppressive  system, 
he  began  with  the  four  bishops  of  the  province,  all  of  whom  are 
among  our  native  helpers.  His  own  prerogatives  being  limited,  he 
r.epresented  to  the  prince,  that  these  bishops  receive  annually  large 
salaries  from  their  people,  and  could  well  afford,  and  of  right  ought, 
to  make  a  present  of  a  hundred  dollars  each  to  his  Royal  Highness. 
Tempted  by  his  strong  love  of  money,  and  believing  the  reiterated 
asseverations  of  bis  European  counsellor,  that  the  bishops  were  well 
able  to  pay  that  sum,  the  prince-governor  issued  orders,  that  the 
money  should  be  exacted,  allowing  a  fortnight  for  its  collection. 
The  bishops,  who  do  not  receive  annually  a  hundred  dollars,  nor 
half  that  sura  and  hardly  a  fourth  of  it,  from  their  poor,  oppressed 
people,  were  thrown  into  great  distress  and  knew  not  what  to  do, — 
especially  as  their  Papal  governor  managed  so  effectually  to  hedge 
up  the  way  of  access  to  the  prince,  that  neither  they  nor  their  peo- 
ple could  reach  him  and  represent  the  truth  of  their  condition. 

But  while  iniquity  was  coming  in  like  a  flood,  the  Lord  lifted  up 
a  standard.  Within  the  fortnight,  allotted  to  the  bishops  for  col- 
lecting and  paying  the  demanded  prese7i?5,  the  Muhammedan  popu- 
lation ofOroomiah,  disgusted  with  the  overbearing  conduct  of  the 
same  Italian  quack  and  roused  by  some  instances  of  oppression  to- 
ward themselves  to  which  he  had  instigated  the  prijice,  rose  sud- 
denly, fied  to  Tabreez,  the  seat  of  the  general  g(wernment  of  north- 
ern Persia,  and  represented  their  grievances  to  the  king's  brother. 

*  It  is  only  a  few  years,  since  the  Persian  government  e.xtcnded  military 
enrolment  to  tlie  native  Christians,  who  were  at  first  pleased  with  tiie  novel- 
ty, as  a  child  with  a  new  toy,  but  soon  learned  to  regard  it  as  a  calamity. 

56 


442 


PAPAL  EFFORTS  AND  OPPRESSION. 


The  prince  of  Oroomiah,  following  the  insurgents  toTabreez,  with 
all  practicable  haste,  left  his  unjust  demand  on  the  bishops  unexe- 
cuted. It  was  only  by  paying  a  large  sum  to  his  superior,  and 
pledging  a  more  equitable  administration  in  future  that  he  was  able 
to  retain  his  place  as  governor ;  and  from  that  time  forward,  I  hardly 
need  say,  he  has  not  troubled  the  bishops  about  presents.  And  the 
quack,  having  by  his  evil  deeds  become  so  obnoxious  to  the  Mu- 
hammedans  that  his  life  was  in  peril,  has  not  since  attempted  to  re- 
side in  the  province.  And  being  at  length  dismissed  by  the  prince, 
for  supposed  peculation  in  the  superintendance  of  villages  in  another 
district,  he  has  finally  become  a  school-master  at  Tabreez,  in  the 
school  that  was  first  commenced  there  by  the  Lazarists ! 

Such  is  the  recent  influx  of  Papal  influence  into  Persia.  For 
nearly  two  centuries,  emissaries  from  Rome  have  been  laboring 
elsewhere,  with  a  zeal  and  perseverance  worthy  of  a  better  cause, 
to  effect  the  conversion  of  the  entire  Nestorian  church.  And  they 
have  succeeded,  by  means  as  wicked  as  various,  among  most  of  the 
Nestorians  on  the  western  side  of  the  Koordish  mountains,  to  which 
part  of  the  field  their  efforts  have,  until  within  a  few  years,  been 
principally  directed.  There,  too,  secular  men,  acting  in  connexion 
with  clerical  emissaries,  are  often  equally  zealous  and  far  more  effi- 
cient agents  of  the  Pope  than  Jesuits  themselves.  Mrs.  Perkins  on 
one  occasion,  received  a  letter  from  a  pious  English  lady  who  resides 
in  Bagdad  in  which  the  writer  says,  "The  religious  state  of  this 
city  is  very  unsatisfactory.  The  Roman  Catholics  carry  the  day 
in  every  way.  There  are  many  priests  who  have  been  educated  at 
the  Propaganda  at  Rome,  possessing  all  the  subtlety  of  Jesuits. 
The  French  consul  supports  them  and  fights  for  them  in  all  their 
mundane  concerns.  A  large  body  of  bishops  and  priests  are  going 
to  Mosul,  in  a  day  or  two,  to  form  a  convention  to  endeavor  to  bring 
over  all  the  Chaldeans  to  the  Papal  faith." 

This  mundane  influence  is  well  illustrated  in  a  case  stated  to  me 
by  a  Protestant  missionary,  who  has  recently  travelled  in  Mesopo- 
tamia. About  five  years  ago,  a  Koordish  chief  came  down  from 
his  mountain  fastness,  and,  as  the  Koords  often  do,  sacked  a  Nes- 
torian district,  on  the  declivity,  taking  a  considerable  number  of 
the  females  captives,  whom  he  sold  to  the  Turks,  in  the  region  of 
MosijJ,  as  slaves.  The  French  consul,  at  Bagdad,  heard  of  the 
circumstances,  and  with  an  ostentatious  afifectation  of  philanthropy, 
applied  to  the  Sultan  through  the  French  ambassador  at  Constanti- 
nople, and  obtained  a  Royal  firman  for  the  immediate  and  uncon- 
ditional liberation  of  those  captives.  This  firman  was  committed 
to  the  consul,  who  engaged  to  see  it  faithfully  carried  into  execu- 
tion. But  instead  of  doing  this,  he  offered  freedom  to  such  of  the 
captives  only  as  would,  on  their  liberation,  become  Papists.  In  one 
instance,  a  poor  Nestorian  priest,  whose  daughter  was  among  those 
in  bondage,  travelled  on  foot  a  long  distance,  to  beg  the  consul  to 
liberate  his  captive  child.    To  him  also  the  consul-  submitted  the 


DEVOTIONS  IN  THE  NATIVE  LANGUAGE. 


443 


only  coQdition  on  which  he  would  liberate  any  of  the  captives,  viz., 
their  becoming  Catholics.  But  the  noble-spirited  priest  preferred 
that  his  daughter  should  remain  a  slave  to  a  Muhammedan  master 
rather  than  become  one  to  the  Pope,  and  replied  to  that  effect  to 
the  consul.  The  latter  then  contrived  to  entrap  the  priest  by 
false  accusations  and  caused  him  to  be  seized  and  beaten  by  the 
Turkish  authorities,  hoping  to  effect  his  object,  at  last  by  violent 
coercion.  But  the  priest  remained  unmoved.  Few,  however,  of 
that  company  of  captives  or  their  friends,  were  possessed  of  his 
firmness,  and  the  result  was,  that  most  of  those  in  bondage  were  set 
at  liberty  on  their  becoming  Pajji^its  as  the  price  of  their  freedom. 

Such  is  the  Papacy  which  we  encounter  in  Asia,  in  the  middle  of 
the  nineteenth  century.  It  has  there  all  the  wily  subtlety  and  grasp- 
ing ambition  of  its  essential  character ;  and  all  the  bloody  vindic- 
tiveness,  too,  however  cautiously  and  artfully  concealed,  that  lighted 
the  fires  of  Smithfield  or  plied  the  racks  of  inquisitorial  Spain,  in 
by-gone  centuries.  Even  in  the  dominions  of  the  False  Prophet,  it 
is  still  from  the  agents  of  the  "  man  of  sin,"  that  the  Protestant  mis- 
sionary must  experience  his  most  violent  opposition  and  relentless 
persecution.  But  by  these  formidable  foes,  we  have  little  reason  to 
be  dismayed.  For  even  antichrist  cannot  close  our  field  against 
the  mighty  hand  of  Him  who  openeth  and  no  man  shutteth. 

Oct.  19.  I  mentioned  the  death  of  Williams^  the  heroic  mission- 
ary martyr,  to  Mar  Yohannan  and  priest  Abraham,  to  whom  and 
other  Nestorians  I  read  his  book,  about  two  years  ago,  relative  to 
his  missionary  enterprises  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  Society  Is- 
lands. The  bishop  and  priest  were  deeply  affected  by  the  sad  intel- 
ligence. "  Blessed  is  he,"  they  soon  however  exclaimed;  "a  mar- 
tyr in  the  cause  of  Christ;  his  lot  was  trying  to  the  body  for  the 
moment;  but  how  happy  now  is  his  spirit!"  The  subject  led  to 
some  interesting  conversation,  on  the  importance  of  our  all  being 
prepared  toencounter  trials  and  death  even,  for  the  name  of  Christ ; 
and  being  ever  rmdy,  inasmuch  as  we  know  not  when  trials  or 
death  may  come  upon  us.  They  expressed  the  hope  that  the  Lord 
would  speedily  raise  up,  among  their  own  people,  many  witnesses 
for  the  truth,  who  shall  emulate  the  example  of  their  worthy  ances- 
tors in  labors  and  sufferings  to  extend  the  cause  of  Christ. 

Oct.  27.  Our  mission  resolved  to  have  evening  devotions  in  our 
families  conducted  in  the  native  language,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
large  number  of  Nestorians  who  reside  with  us.  Some  of  the  eccle- 
siastics will  be  happy  to  take  their  turn  with  the  missionaries,  in 
conducting  the  exercise.  Prayer,  in  the  modern  language,  is  a 
great  novelty  to  the  Nestorians,  and  greater  still  when  offered  ex- 
tempore..'' It  is  like  a  day-star  fi-om  on  high,  breaking  through  the 
darkness  of  their  obsolete  tongue,  and  pouring  gleams  of  celestial 
Hght  into  their  benighted  minds. 

Nov.  7.  Our  printer,  Mr.  Breath,  arrived.  We  have  been  long 
and  anxiously  waiting  for  the  arrival  of  the  press,  as  a  great  and  im- 


444 


THE  PRESS  TRADITION  PRINTING. 


portant  auxiliary  in  our  missionai-y  work,  and  trust  tliat  our  antici- 
pations will  be  fully  realized.  The  absence  of  the  English  embassy 
from  Persia,  causes  us  to  enter  upon  this  new  undertaking,  attend- 
ed with  much  notoriety  as  it  necessarily  is,  with  more  apprehension 
and  solicitude  than  we  should  feel,  in  other  circumstances.  Few, 
however,  have  more  reason  to  trust  in  the  Lord  in  view  of  past  mer- 
cies, than  the  members  of  our  mission. 

Nov.  9.  We  took  the  press  from  the  boxes  in  which  it  was 
brought  and  set  it  up.  If  was  constructed  particularly  for  our  sta- 
tion, being  cast  in  smaller  pieces  than  is  usual,  to  render  its  trans- 
portation practicable  on  the  backs  of  horses,  over  the  high,  steep 
and  rugged  mountains.  It  appears  like  an  exotic,  in  this  dark,  re- 
mote land;  and  still,  like  a  familiar  old  acquaintance,  whose  arrival 
is  inexpressibly  welcome. 

Nov.  15.  I  preached  in  the  church  of  St.  Mary,  in  the  Nestori- 
ari  part  of  the  city.  The  attendence  there  is  becoming  more  and 
more  numerous  and  encouraging.  The  Nestorians  suppose  this 
church  to  have  been  built  by  the  "  wise  men  from  the  East,"  who, 
guided  by  the  "  star,"  came  to  Jerusalem  to  worship  the  infant  Re- 
deemer. They  hold  these  "  wise  men"  to  have  been  natives  of 
Oroomiah,  who  reared  this  church  on  their  return,  as  a  token  of 
their  devotion  to  the  Saviour.  Their  tombs  are  still  pointed  out, 
in  the  porches  of  the  church.  This  account  savors,  perhaps,  rather 
too  much  of  legendary  tradition  readily  to  comm&nd  Protestant  be- 
lief. There  is,  however,  no  strong  reason  to  doubt,  that  the  church 
may  have  been  built  very  early,  and  perhaps  in  primitive  times. 

Nov*  20.  The  chief  rabbi  of  the  Jews  called  on  me  and  reques- 
ted a  Hebrew  Bible  from  which  to  instruct  his  little  son.  I  inqui- 
red whether  he  would  not  prefer  a  New  Testament.  Oh  no;  he  re- 
plied ;  I  prnfcr  the  Old  Testaitient,  but  would  be  pleased  with  both. 
I  accordingly  gave  him  both,  to  his  no  small  gratification. 

Nov.  21.  We  put  our  press  in  operation,  by  printing,  on  small 
scraps,  a  few  copies  of  the  Lord's  prayer,  in  the  ancient  Syriac, 
merely  to  gratify  the  curiosity  of  the  natives  who  had  never  before 
witnessed  printing.  The  "Press"  is  now  the  lion  here.  Numbers 
call  daily  to  see  it.  The  Nestorians  are  inexpressibly  delighted  with 
it,  alike  as  a  curiosity  and  as  holding  out  a  pledge  of  opening  a  new 
era  upon  their  people;  while  the  Muhammedans,  equally  pleased 
with  the  novelty,  inquire  with  interest,  "  are  you  not  going  to  make 
books  for  us  also?"  "  We  have  no  Persian  type,"  is  the  reply  by 
which  we  waive  this  inquiry  ;  but  how  long  they  will  rest  satisfied 
to  have  us  work  the  press  for  the  exclusive  benefit  of  their  Nestorian 
subjects,  is  a  point  that  justly  creates  in  us  a  degree  of  solicitude. 
We  may  at  length  find  it  expedient  to  print  some  in  Persian*  for 
the  Mdhammedans,  while  we  do  so  much  for  the  native  Christians. 

"  Tlie  cliief  astrologrer  of  Orooiniali  applied  to  our  mission  to  print  his  Al- 
manac for  1258,  (1S42)  for  which  lie  was  ready  to  pay  a  fair  compensation. 
A  good  geography  and  maps  and  some  other  elementary  works  ought  to  be 
immediately  furnished  by  our  press  for  the  Muhammedans. 


PREACHING  AT  AB.DISHAI. 


445 


Nov.  28.  In  company  with  Dr.  Wright,  I  went  to  Ardishai  to 
spend  the  Sabbath  and  attempt  a  commencement  of  religious  ser- 
vices there,  in  the  Nestorian  church.  We  have  from  the  first,  just- 
ly regarded  Ardishai,  as  one  of  the  most  difficult,  and  at  the  same  time 
important,  points  in  our  field.  The  village  contains  a  population  of 
about  one  thousand  souls.  It  is  the  residence  of  the  unstable  young 
bishop,  Mar  Gabriel,  who  has  a  large  diocese  and  much  general  in- 
fluence in  the  province.  The  people  are  proverbially  the  most  rude 
and  irreligious  of  any  of  the  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah,  owing  proba- 
bly not  a  little  to  the  character  of  their  bishop;  and  Romanists,  as 
we  have  seen,  have  of  late  made  most  strenuous  efforts  to  secure 
that  position.  Priest  Yohannan,  whom  we  placed  there  as  principal 
teacher  in  the  school,  has  been  faithful  to  his  trust.  It  was  at  his 
earnest  recommendation,  that  we  were  led  to  attempt  stated  Sabbath 
services  at  such  a  distance,  (neaj  fifteen  miles,)  from  the  city;  and 
he  had  successfully  importuned  the  volatile  bishop  to  second  the 
undertaking.  We  arrived  at  Ardishai  about  dark.  The  weather 
was  cloudy  and  cold.  Priest  Yohannan  soon  stated,  that  Mar  Ga- 
briel had,  in  anticipation  of  our  coming,  been  out  two  miles  to  Ba- 
randooz  river,  to  take  some  fish  for  us ;  and  in  catching  them,  he 
had  been  wading  several  hours  in  the  stream,  (at  this  cold  season 
of  the  year,)  where  the  water  was  two  or  three  feet  deep.  The 
bishop  appeared  to  be  much  pleased  with  his  success;  and  his  ef- 
forts, made  solely  on  our  account,  were  gratifying  to  us  as  indica- 
tive of  his  friendly  feelings,  but  were  also  rather  amusing  in  a 
christian  bishop,  and  more  painful,  as  showing  his  still  strong 
passion  for  fishing  and  hunting,  to  the  neglect  of  the  appropriate 
duties  of  his  office.  The  instrument  used  in  fishing,  in  the  small 
rivers,  is  a  circular  net,  earned  in  the  hand  and  thrown  adroitly 
over  the  fish.  The  border  of  the  net  is  furni.shed  with  a  leaded  line 
which  sinks  it  quickly  and  holds  it  on  the  ground. 

In  the  evening,  we  sat  down  with  Mar  Gabriel  and  the  priest  and 
two  deacons,  and  read  a  chapter  of  the  New  Testament,  in  the 
manner  of  a  Bible  class.  Such  social  exercises  are  among  the 
most  hopeful  means  of  interesting  and  benefitting  this  worldly  bishop, 
as  well  as  his  people. 

Nov.  29.  The  Sabbath.  The  weather  was  rainy,  and  seemed 
very  unfavorable  for  the  commencement  of  our  meetings;  and 
another  obstacle,  apparently  still  more  serious,,  was  the  celebration 
of  a  seven  days'  wedding  in  the  village,  which  had  begun  the  eve- 
ning before,  and  the  festivities  of  which  were  not  suspended  on  ac- 
count of  the  Sabbath.  This  wedding  was  celebrated,  (by  another 
family,)  in  a  part  of  the  house  occupied  by  priest  Yohannan  ;  and 
as  we  had  been  invited  to  attend  as  guests,  the  bishop  and  priest 
recommended  that  we  should  go  in  and  take  breakfast  with  the 
party,  and  invite  them  in  return  to  go  with  us  to  the  church,  as  the 
only  means  by  which  we  could  secure  a  congregation.  As  it  was 
exceedingly  important  that  our  first  attempt  to  hold  meetings  in 


446 


A  WEDDING  MEETING' 


I  THE  PSALMS. 


the  village  should  not  prove  a  failure,  we  acceded  to  the  proposi- 
tion.   We  found  nearly  one  hundred  persons  at  the  wedding,  who, 
on  our  entering  the  room,  rose  and  welcomed  us,  and  observed 
great  stillness  and  decorum  during  the  whole  time  that  we  were 
with  them.    While  we  sat  at  breakfast,  priest  Yohaiman,  at  my 
suggestion,  repeated  to  the  party  the  parable  of  the  'king's  son,' 
which  was  naturally  suggested  by  our  circumstances.    All  listened 
with  interest  and  marvelled  at  the  unreasonableness  of  the  excuses 
which  were  made  by  the  different  classes,  when  they  had  received 
an  invitation  to  such  a  wedding.    I  then  applied  the  subject  to 
them,  by  remarking,  that  in  the  name  of  our  Lord,  I  invited  them 
all  to  that  same  marriage  feast;  and  in  order  that  they  might  be 
prepared  for  it,  by  having  on  the  wedding  garment,  the  nature  of 
which  I  explained  to  them,  I  requested  them  to  suspend  their  fes- 
tivities and  go  to  the  meeting  that  was  to  be  held  at  the  church, 
suggesting  that  the  reception  which  they  should  give  this  invitation 
might  perhaps  be  a  pretty  good  index  of  their  desire,  or  the  want  of 
it,  to  secure  a  place  at  the  marriage  supper  of  the  Lamb.  The 
suggestions  were  kindly  received  and  the  proposition  to  go  to  meet- 
ing was  accepted  by  acclamation.    We  soon  entered  the  church 
where  about  sixty  adults  and  many  children  were  assembled,  who 
listened  with  fixed  attention  about  an  hour,  while  I  expounded  to 
them  the  l8th  chapter  of  Luke,  which  the  bishop  had  first  read  and 
translated  from  the  ancient  into  the  modern  language;  and  priest 
Yohannan  occasionally  interspersed  a  few  very  practical  and  pointed 
remarks.     At  the  close  of  the  service,  a  venerable  old  man  ex- 
claimed, "  If  we  can  have  such  meetings  as  this,  we  will  corne  and 
listen  twice,  every  day."    The  bishop  replied  that  the  missionaries 
would  corae  and  hold  meetings  there  every  Sabbath,  and  all  present 
seemed  highly  gratified  with  the  prospect.    Thus  did  the  Lord 
smile  upon  the  attempt  to  commence  meetings  in  Ardishai,  far  more 
propitiously  than  we  had  dared  to  expect.    The  very  happy  influ- 
ence of  our  school  in  preparing  the  way,  even  on  that  hard  and  un- 
promising soil,  is  already  apparent. 

Nov.  30.  We  commenced  printing  the  Psalms  in  the  ancient 
Syriac  language,  a  work  we  had  long  promised  to  the  clergy,  as  the 
Jirst  labor  of  the  press.  They  are  very  anxious  that  we  should 
print  the  rubrics  with  red  ink,  according  to  their  own  style  of  illumi- 
nating books  with  the  pen.  This  would  considerably  augment  the 
labor ;  but  the  increased  acceptance  with  which  this  portion  of  the 
Scriptures  would  meet,  particularly  in  their  church  service,  renders 
it  quite  desirable  to  comply  with  their  wishes,  if  we  can  find  mate- 
rials for  red  ink.  We  also  print  this  edition  of  the  Psalms  with 
references,  with  which  the  Nestorians  are  exceedingly  pleased,  pos- 
sessing as  they  do  no  concordance,  and  never  before  having  had 
anything  in  the  form  of  references,  which  they  pertinently  denomi- 
nate "  witnesses."  Those  who  are  able  to  read  English,  use  our 
reference  Bibles  with  great  satisfaction,  and  we  trust  this  humble 


LEARNING  TO  PRINT  MEEAJNA. 


447 


commencement  of  providing  like  facilities  in  their  own  language, 
will  contribute  materially  to  excite  in  them  an  interest  in  the  study 
of  the  Scriptures. 

Dec.  3.  Our  Mulianimedan  Meerza  has  been  very  importunate, 
ever  since  the  arrival  of  our  press,  that  his  brother,  who  is  also  a 
Meerza,  should  be  allowed  to  work  at  it  and  learn  to  print;  and 
whatever  objections  we  have  been  able  to  raise  to  the  proposition, 
he  has  contrived  so  successfully  to  obviate,  that  we  feel  constrained 
to  yield,  and  give  his  brother  a  place  among  the  Nestorian  appren- 
tices. His  object  is  merely  to  learn  to  print.  But  it  is  interesting 
to  us,  and  deeply  so  to  the  Nestorians,  to  behold  a  respectable  Mu- 
hammedan,  engaged  thus  with  the  native  Christians,  in  publishing 
the  christian  Scriptures.  A  brother  of  the  Patriarch  was  in  the 
printing-office,  to-day,  and  on  observing  the  Meerza  at  work  among 
the  Nestorians,  repeated  the  words  of  the  prophet  Joel,  "Audit 
shall  come  to  pass  that  I  will  pour  out  my  Spirit  upon  all  flesh,'" — 
reffardincr  the  scene  before  him  as  an  earnest  of  the  conversion  of 
the  Muhammedans. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

JOURNAL:  JANUARY— JUiNE,  184). 

Accompanied  by  Mr.  Breath,  I  rode  to  Ardishai,  Jan.  2,  to  at- 
tend meeting  there  to-morrow.  We  went  directly  to  the  house  of 
the  bishop,  which  we  regard  as  our  standing  home,  whenever  we 
visit  the  village. 

Jan.  3.  We  repaired  to  the  church,  early  in  the  morning,  to 
attend  the  regular,  daily  prayers.  The  weather  was  severely  cold  ; 
few  were  present ;  the  services  were  hurried  over  in  a  heartless 
manner;  and  the  whole  scene  was  indescribably  cheerless.  From 
the  church,  we  accompanied  the  bishop  X.o\\\s  Mceand ,  which  is  one 
end  of  the  stable,  in  the  form  of  a  room,  elevated  a  few  feet  and 
separated  from  the  rest  by  a  low  railing.  This  place  is  always  kept 
warm,  in  the  winter,  by  the  accumulated  breath  of  the  animals  in 
the  stable.  Two  or  three  of  the  most  wealthy  individuals  in  a  vil- 
lage usually  have  Meednas ;  and  to  these,  the  male  inhabitants  are 
wont  to  resort,  morning  and  evening,  to  warm  themselves  and  hold 
a  social  levee.  This  is,  on  the  whole,  the  most  comfortable  place,  in 
winter,  that  we  find  among  the  peasants.  When  we  entered  the 
Meeana,  a  few  persons  were  already  there ;  and  others  soon  assem- 
bled to  the  number  of  about  seventy.  I  suggested  to  Mar  Gabriel 
that  our  Lord  was  accustomed  to  teach  and  preach  on  all  occasions. 


448  COLD  BREAKFAST  WARMING  THE  CHURCH. 


— sometimes,  sitting,  and  at  other  times,  standing ;  now  in  the 
synagogue  and  anon  by  the  way-side.  Priest  Yohannan  hearing  tlie 
suggestion,  sent  immediately  to  the  church  for  his  Bible.  And  it 
was  truly  interesting  to  observe  how  ingeniously  he  gained  the  at- 
tentioji  of  the  medley  concourse  to  the  reading  of  the  Scriptures. 
Allusion  had  been  made,  by  persons  present,  to  the  prince-governor 
and  the  king.  Said  the  priest,  you  have  been  speaking  of  the  king 
and  prince;  now  listen  to  something  about  the  kingdom  of  hcavm. 
All  instantly  uncovered  their  heads*  and  listened  in  most  respectful 
silence  while  he  read  and  expounded  to  them,  in  a  very  engaging 
and  impressive  manner,  the  two  last  chapters  of  Revelation.  Two 
Catholics  were  present,  who  also  gave  serious  attention.  Without 
■assailing  their  system  directly,  the  priest,  in  reading  the  awful  de- 
nunciation in  Rev.  21:  S,  gave  an  emphasis  to  the  word  idolaters, 
(in  ttie  Syriac,  idol — or  image-worshippers,)  which  could  not  fail  to 
arrest  their  attention. 

The  bishop  next  invited  us  into  his  house  to  take  breakfast.  The 
room  was  cold ;  and  a  cold  dish  of  stewed  beans,  bread  and  a  clus- 
ter of  frozen  grapes,  constituted  the  meal.  It  being  Lent,  we  had 
requested  that  the  family  should  prepare  nothing  for  us  different 
from  what  they  ate  themselves,  wishing  not  to  offend  their  feelings 
by  obliging  them  to  cook  meat  or  seasoned  dishes  for  us,  from 
which  they  abstained.  We  should  much  have  preferred  total  absti- 
nence, mixed  as  the  cold  beans  were  with  vinegar  and  an  abundance 
of  garlics.  But  to  be  social,  we  ate  a  little,  feeling  that  we  must 
not  again  rashly  charge  the  Nestorinns  with  exercising  no  self-denial 
in  their  fasts.  Their  practised  nerves  and  palates,  however,  would 
of  course  be  far  less  likely  to  eschew  the  frigid  temperature  and 
odoriferous  properties  of  such  a  meal,  than  ours  while  uninitiated. 

After  breakfast,  we  repaired  to  the  church.  The  weather  was 
still  very  cold.  Hardly  an  individual  had  preceded  us;  and  as  we 
crept  through  the  small  door,f  Mr.  Breath  remarked  to  me,  "We 
should  have  done  much  better  to  hold  our  meeting  in  that  stable." 
The  windows^  of  the  church  were  open  ;  half  the  earth  floor  was 
naked,  the  rest  being  covered  with  coarse  rush-mats ;  and  the  whole 
scene  was  sufficiently  dreary  to  dishearten  even  the  most  hopeful. 
Soon,  however,  the  old  lady  who  lights  the  church  came  in  with  a 
"  bundle  of  sticks" — the  prunings  of  the  grape-vines — which  she 
kindled  on  the  floor.  The  building  was  soon  filled  with  smoke, 
which  blunted  the  edge  of  the  cold.  My  feelings  were  much  tried 
by  the  levity  of  those  present,  while  they  were  kindling  the  fire, — 

*  As  orientals  shave  tJieir  heads,  they  keep  them  covered  in  their  social 
intercourse  and  usually,  even  in  worship. 

t  The  doors  of  tlic  Nestorian  churches  are  .about  two  and  a  half  or  three 
feet  hinh  and  two  feet  wide.  They  are  thus  small,  to  prevent  MahamYnedans 
from  using-  them  as  stables. 

t  Tiiese  windows  are  very  high,  and  only  a  few  inches  wide,  to  prevent 
the  dutrance  of  thieves. 


DRAWING  MEETING  IN  THE  STABLE. 


449 


the  bishop,  among  the  rest,  taking  his  turn  in  blowing  it  up  and  in- 
dulging in  humorous  reaiarks.  Meanwhile,  however,  the  people 
were  flocking  in  and  they  continued  to  asseoible,  in  those  uninviting 
circumstances,  to  the  number  of  about  two  hundred ;  and  all  lis- 
tened with  the  most  profound  attention,  while  Mar  Gabriel  read  the 
third  chapter  of  Colossians  which  the  priest  and  myself,  speaking 
alternately,  expounded  for  a  full  hour.  The  listening  crowd  soon 
made  me  forget  the  discomfort  of  the  smoke  and  the  cold,  and  ren- 
dered the  season  one  of  the  most  delightful  that  I  have  enjoyed 
among  the  Nestorians.  On  the  hard  soil  of  Ardishai  even,  there  is 
animating  encouragement. 

Jan.  G.  Priest  Abraham,  Moses  and  a  young  Khan  who  is  a 
member  of  our  Mussulman  school,  have  of  late  been  trying  their 
skill  in  map-drawing ;  and  the  rapidity  and  accuracy  with  which 
ihey  are  able  to  sketch  and  fill  out  almost  any  map  are  quite  sur- 
prising. The  Nestorians,  as  well  as  the  Persian  Miihammedans, 
possess,  in  a  wonderful  degree,  the  talent  of  imitation,  which  may 
be  turned  to  important  account,  in  our  efforts  for  their  civilization 
and  salvation. 

Jan.  17.  To  warm  the  large  church  of  Geog-tapa,  three  fires 
were  kindled  on  the  earth-floor,  which  filled  the  house  so  full  of 
smoke  as  to  drive  out  most  of  the  congregation  for  some  time.  But 
it  passed  away  at  length,  through  the  small  windows,  and  the  people 
returned.  The  audience  numbered,  perhaps,  two  hundred  and 
fifty — who  were  unusually  serious  and  attentive.  The  comfortless 
state  of  the  Nestorian  churches,  with  open  windows,  and  no  facili- 
ties for  warming  them,  is  a  serious  obstacle  to  attendance  at  their 
stated  devotions  in  the  winter.  At  their  morning  and  evening 
prayers,  few  are  commonly  present,  besides  the  clergy.  The  large 
attendance  at  our  meeting  is,  therefore,  a  very  encouraging  indica- 
tion of  the  interest  of  the  people  in  religious  instruction,  when  com- 
municated in  a  language  which  they  are  able  to  understand. 

Jan.  23.  Rode  to  Ardishai  to  preach  to-morrow.  Being  de- 
tained at  home  until  almost  evening,  I  was  very  late  in  reaching 
the  villacre,  and  for  several  of  the  last  miles,  wab  obliged  io  feel  out 
a  blind  way  in  the  dark.  The  weather  was  quite  cold,  and  the 
light  snow,  preventing  my  readily  seeing  the  path  which  was  but 
little  trodden,  I  was  for  some  time  apprehensive  that  I  should  be 
compelled  long  to  wander  over  the  plain,  if  not  fail  of  reaching  the 
village.  A  kind  Father's  hand,  however,  guided  me  directly  to  the 
bishop's  door,  and  suffered  me  not  to  miss  ray  winding  way  in  a 
single  instance. 

Jan.  24.  Attended  morning  prayers  at  the  church.  After  re- 
turning to  my  lodgings  in  the  bishop's  stable,  not  only  the  Mccdnd, 
but  much  of  the  great  stable  itself  was  soon  filled  with  the  villagers, 
evidently  eager  to  hear  the  word  of  God,  though  no  call  or  notice 
of  a  meeting  had  been  given.  At  my  suggestion,  the  bishop  di- 
rected priest  Yohannan  to  read  to  the  assembly.  There  were  at 
57 


450  AN  ORATOR  TRUTH  WHEN  FIRST  PRESENTED. 


least  a  hundred  and  fifty  present,  crowded  shoulder  to  shoulder. 
The  audience  listened  with  fixed  attention,  more  than  an  hour,  and 
without  the  least  symptom  of  impatience,  though  huddled  so  closely 
together,  and  many  of  them  standing  among  the  buffaloes  and  oxen 
in  the  stable. 

I  am  more  and  more  impressed  with  priest  Yohannan's  uncom- 
>non  powers  as  a  popular  native  preacher.  His  figures  are  often 
very  striking.  Some  of  them  might  indeed  appear  puerile  to  an 
American,  but  to  these  simple-hearted  Nestorians,  they  are  very 
vivid  and  impressive.  As  a  specimen,  in  explaining  the  nature  and 
importance  of  humility,  as  inculcated  in  James  1:9,  "  Let  the  bro- 
ther of  low  degree  rejoice  in  that  he  is  exalted,"  etc. ;  "  Have  you 
not  often  .seen  the  stnrs,^''  he  inquired,  "  and  observed  how  high 
God  has  placed  them  in  the  heavens?  Well,  look  into  a  stream 
of  water  at  night,  and  see  how  lo7o  they  cast  their  shadows.  Again  ; 
have  you  never  observed  smoke,  that  image  of  vanity,  and  observed 
how  it  puffs  and  throws  itself  vp ;  but  erelong  it  falls  down  again  to  the 
ground.  So  true  are  the  words  of  our  Lord,  He  that  humbleth  himself 
shall  be  exalted,  while  he  that  exaJteth  himself  shall  be  abased."  All 
nature,  animate  and  inanimate,  is  made  to  speak  in  the  course  of 
his  expository  sermons,  which  is  true,  indeed,  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent,  of  oriental  preaching  in  general.  But  priest  Yohannan  has 
a  more  important  requisite  to  render  him  an  eloquent  preacher  than 
figures  and  flowers — a  heart  to  do  good  ;  hence  his  discourses  are 
commonly  practical  and  spiritual,  and  often  searching  and  powerful, 
as  well  as  entertaining. 

We  had  scarcely  closed  our  deeply  interesting  service  in  the  sta- 
ble, when  it  was  announced,  that  the  people  were  already  assembling 
in  the  church  to  listen  to  us  there;  and  we  soon  repaired  thither  to 
attend  the  regular  and  more  public  meeting.  The  church,  though 
warmed  as  before,  was  less  uncomfortable  than  usual,  as  the  fire 
had  been  earlier  kindled  and  some  of  the  smoke  had  passed  away. 
Though  quite  large,  it  was  filled  to  overflowing  by  a  more  serious 
congregation  than  I  have  before  addressed  in  Persia,  and  especially 
at  Ardishai.  As  we  passed  out  of  the  meeting,  several  old  ladies 
came  around  me  and  implored  many  blessings  to  rest  on  me,  for 
coming  so  far  to  preach  to  them.  And  one  of  them  declared,  that 
if  it  had  not  been  for  us,  half  the  village  would  ere  this  have  become 
Catholics. 

With  priest  Yohannan,  I  afterward  rode  to  Alcai,  a  village  two 
miles  south  of  Ardishai,  to  hold  another  meeting.  The  congrega- 
tion there  was  large  and  the  appearance  encouraging,  though  being 
so  little  accustomed  to  the  solemnity  proper  to  be  observed  in  reli- 
gious services,  the  audience  were  inclined  to  indulge  in  conversa- 
tion, as  was  also  the  case  at  first,  in  the  other  villages.  Jt  is  very 
interesting  to  notice  how  forcibly  religions  truth  strikes  these  people, 
when  first  presented,  which  on  becoming  familiar  may  cease  to  af- 
fect them.    As  I  was  to-day  giving  some  account  of  the  nature  of 


APPEAL  SACRIFICIAL  FESTIVAL. 


451 


heaven,  as  sketched  in  the  21st  chapter  of  Revelation,  the  feelings 
of  the  audience  rose  and  moved  on  with  the  description,  until  they 
evidently  reached  a  very  high  degree  of  interest,  when  one  old 
gentleman  involuntarily  exclaimed,  "  What  must  we  do  to  secure  a 
place  there'?"  I  paused,  and  answered  him  in  the  words  of  Paul  to 
the  jailer  ;  for  his  inquiry  was  in  substance,  "What  must  1  do  to 
be  saved  ]" 

After  meeting,  I  dined  with  the  priests,  (a  father  and  son,)  of  the 
village.  Several  persons  came  in  and  uttered  their  long  expressions 
of  gratitude  for  our  coming  to  preach  to  them.  '  You,'  said  the 
priests,  (addressing  the  villagers,)  '  liave  been  accustomed  to  cast 
the  blame  upon  us,  telling  us  that  the  fault  of  your  sins  was  not 
yotjr  own,  because  you  had  nobody  properly  to  teach  you  the  will 
of  God  and  your  duty,  which  was  indeed  partly  true.  But  you  can 
say  this  no  longer.  The  door  is  now  open  for  you  to  hear  the  gos- 
pel every  Sabbath.  Listen  to  it  and  be  saved.'  Priest  Yohannan 
had  also  enjoined  on  the  audience  in  the  church  their  obligation 
promptly  to  attend  meeting,  by  telling  them,  '  this  gentleman,  (re- 
ferring to  me,)  came  to  Ardishai  in  the  cold  and  darkness  of  last 
evening,  not  for  his  own  benefit  but  for  your  good ;  and  will  you 
not  come  from  your  houses  a  few  steps  to  hear  the  gospel,  for  your- 
selves 1  And  these  missionaries  have  come  from  distant  America, 
forsaking  father,  mother  and  all  things,  not  for  their  personal  ad- 
vantage, but  to  preach  to  you  ;  and  will  you  not  come  and  listen 
for  your  own  salvation?'  The  audience  seemed  deeply  to  feel  the 
force  of  this  appeal.  There  need  be  no  other  limil'to  the  number 
of  congregations  of  Nestorians  eager  to  listen  to  our  preaching  in 
their  churches  on  all  parts  of  the  plain,  than  our  ability  to  perform 
the  labor. 

Jan..  30.  A  camel,  gorgeously  arrayed  with  a  shawl  and  other 
trappings,  was  led  into  our  yard,  escorted  by  drums,  bugles  and  a 
large  throng  of  men  ;  and  stationed  before  my  study  window,  and  a 
messenger  was  sent  to  nfe  to  say,  that  the  camel  was  the  harbinger 
of  the  Corban  JBeirdm,  sacrificial  festival,  an  anniversary  of  the  Mo- 
hammedans, in  commemoration  of  Abraham's  offering  up  Isaac, — 
whom  the  "Faithful"  have  changed  to  Ismail,  (Ishmael,) — on  which 
occasion  animals  are  slain  and  distributed  among  the  poor.  The 
rich  are  accustomed  to  offer  camels ;  and  persons  in  humble  life, 
sheep,  or  calves,  according  to  their  circumstances.  This  camel 
was  the  prince's  intended  offering,  which  his  servants  were  now 
conducting  to  the  doors  of  those  whom  they  wished  to  compliment, 
and  from  whom  they  regard  themselves  entitled,  in  return,  to  a 
small  present,  as  an  annual  perquisite  of  the  servants  of  the  chief 
magistrate.  The  Muharamedans,  as  weJl  as  the  Nestorians,  claim 
Ibrahim,  (Abraham,)  as  their  Father. 

Feb.  1.  Our  good  friend.  Dr.  Riach,  is  back  again  in  Persia, 
having  been  sent  by  the  Queen  of  England,  as  a  special  messenger 
to  the  Shah,  for  the  adjustment  of  the  difficulties  existing  between 


452 


nELIGIOUS  INTEREST  EMEER-I-NIZAM. 


England  and  this  country.  He  has  just  gone  on  to  Tehran.  In 
writing  me  from  Tabreez  on  his  way,  he  expressed  a  strong  expec- 
tation, that  his  agency  would  he  successful.  "We  have  peculiar 
cause  for  gratitude  to  God,  that  he  has  watched  over  us,  during 
these  difficulties,  while  no  Protestant  embassy  has  been  in  the  coun- 
try, and  permitted  us  to  prosecute  our  work  without  any  interrup- 
tion. We  have  experienced  enough  of  mercy  and  favor  during 
these  "  troublous  times,"  to  assure  us,  that  the  cause  in  which  we 
are  engaged  is  dearer  to  Christ  than  it  can  be  to  any  of  His  dis- 
ciples. 

Fiih.  7.  There  were  at  least  four  hundred  persons  at  our  meet- 
ing to-day  at  Geog-tapa.  There  is  evidently  a  very  unusual  interest 
on  the  subject  of  religion  among  the  people  there  and  in  several 
other  villages.  A  deacon  came  in  the  afternoon,  to  request  priest 
Abraham  and  one  of  the  missionaries  to  go  to  Charbash  and  hold  a 
meeting.  The  members  of  the  mission  all  being  engaged  elsewhere, 
the  priest  went  alone;  and  he  informed  me  on  his  return,  that  he 
had  a  large  congregation,  who  were  eager  to  hear  the  word  of  God 
and  expressed  a  strong  desire  that  they  might  have  preaching  there 
every  Sabbath.  The  field  around  us  is  thus  ample  and  fully  ripe 
for  the  harvest. 

Feb.  17.  We  visited  the  Emeer-i-nizara,  who  arrived  three  days 
ago.  The  object  of  his  visit  to  this  city  is  to  adjust  the  deranged 
state  of  the  troops.  He  received  us,  to-day,  with  much  kindness 
and  inquired  with  interest  about  our  work  and  welfare.  The  floor 
of  his  great  room  was  half  spread  over  with  large  trays  loaded  with 
sweet-meats,  which  had  been  presented  to  him  by  the  governor  and 
other  high  personages  of  the  city,  scores  of  whom  were  present  at 
the  time.  When  we  took  our  leave  of  the  Emeer,  he  directed  our 
Meerza,  who  was  with  us,  to  remain,  we  knew  not  for  what  reason. 
But  it  was  soon  apparent,  when  the  Meerza  canne  with  four  of  the 
Emeer's  servants,  bearing  two  of  the  huge  trays  of  ^weet-meats,  and 
a  fine  Iamb,  to  our  dwelling,  as  a  present  from  his  Excellency  and 
a  token  of  his  friendship.  He  evidently  intended  this  distinguished 
attention  as  an  open  announcement  to  the  people  here,  that  we  en- 
joy his  confidence  and  protection,  an  impression  which  he  farther 
took  pains  to  strengthen,  during  his  visit,  by  sending  us  portions  of 
his  game — a  wild  goat,  ducks,  etc.  that  he  took  in  hunting.  This 
good  old  Persian  magistrate,  [good  for  Persia,)  has  from  my  first 
acquaintance  with  him  at  Tabreez,  shown  himself  very  friendly  to 
us  and  our  object, — having  repeatedly  written  the  governor  of  Oroo- 
miah,  enjoining  on  hin\  to  take  care  of  us,  and  made  other  special 
efforts  to  protect  us,  iu  the  absence  of  the  English  embassy.  Such 
favors  from  him  are  the  more  grateful,  as  we  have  the  satisfaction 
of  knowing  that  his  personal  character  is  less  exceptionable  than 
that  of  perhaps  any  other  Persian  noble  in  the  empire. 

The  Emeer  has  recently  .been  with  troops  on  an  excursion  to  the 
firontier,  near  Bayazeed,  to  chastise  the  refractory  Koords.    He  ha» 


INTELLIGENCE  PUNISHMENTS. 


453 


taken  several  of  their  chiefs,  beheaded  three  or  four  of  them  and 
placed  others  in  prison.  Alt.  Ararat  and  the  region  around  it,  lie 
stated  to  us,  is  still  terribly  shaken  by  frequent  earthquakes.  In 
one  instance,  when  he  was  near  it,  a  shock  occurred  so  severe  as  to 
break  up  the  ice  on  the  river  Arras.  Last  summer,  a  large  Arme- 
nian village,  near  the  base  of  the  mountain,  was  buried  by  the  earth 
and  rocks  that  were  shaken  down  ;  and  the  sudden  melting  of  the 
vast  avalanches,  which  were  shaken  down  at  that  hot  season  of  the 
year,  swelled  the  Arras  and  flooded  the  region. 

We  also  visited  the  vizier  of  the  Emeer-i-nizam-  When  the 
Emeer  was  sent,  some  years  ago,  as  ambassador  to  St.  Petersburg, 
this  same  vizier  went  with  him  as  his  secretary.  While  there,  they 
both  acquired  many  European  ideas  and  so  much  information,  that 
they  now  appear  a  whole  age  in  advance  of  their  countrymen  of  this 
province.  The  vizier,  in  particular,  has  more  knowledge  of  distant 
America — which  most  Persians,  who  know  of  its  existence,  regard 
as  a  remote  island,  still  under  the  government  of  the  English — than 
any  native,  with  whom  1  have  met  in  this  country. 

JPcb.  27.  The  Emeer,  acting  on  the  plenipotentiary  powers, 
delegated  to  him  by  the  king,  is  causing  great  consternation  at 
Oroomiah,  by  apprehending  and  punishing  a  large  number  of  mili- 
tary officers,  who  mutinied  and  committed  horrid  outrages  on  the  in- 
habitants during  their  campaign  in  Khorasan.  About  twenty  officers 
have  been  imprisoned  and  severely  beaten  ;  heavy  fines  have  also 
been  taken  from  their  families, — the  beatincj  being  continued  until 
the  money  was  forth-coming, — and  most  of  them  have  been  subse- 
quently put  in  chains  and  sent  to  the  capital.  On  going  to  the 
bazar,  a  few  days  ago,  I  observed  three  captains  lying  on  the  city 
common,  with  their  legs  bound  to  sticks  of  timber,  and  they  trem- 
bling and  writhing  under  the  rigor  of  the  whip,  one  of  whom  died 
the  day  following,  from  the  severity  with  which  he  had  been  beaten 
and  subsequent  exposure  to  cold.  The  soles  of  their  feet,  when  I 
saw  them,  were  bruised  almost  to  a  jelly ;  their  legs  were  naked  and 
bloody ;  they  were  agonized  with  pain  and  shaking  with  chills, 
there  being  snow  on  the  ground  around  them  ;  and  twelve  or  fifteen 
were  afterward  exposed  there  together  in  a  similar  condition.  It  is 
trying  to  our  feelings  to  witness  such  severity  and  think  of  the  suf- 
fering of  their  families  inflicted  by  the  heavy  fines.  We  cannot 
■doubt,  however,  that  the  culprits  richly  deserve  severe  punishment 
for  their  lawless  conduct,  both  in  camp  and  at  hotne.  "  The  troops  " 
are  the  terror  of  the  inhabitants  here,  on  whom  they  have  been  ac- 
customed to  comn)it  almost  every  species  of  violence  and  oppres- 
sion with  impunity. 

The  Persian  government  cannot  afFord  to  keep  men  in  confine- 
ment except  princes  and,  rarely,  nobles,  having  no  system  of  prison- 
labor  by  which  they  nnght  defray  their  expenses.  Criminals  are, 
therefore,  usually  punished  with  despatch  as  well  as  severity.  Cap- 
ital punishment  for  murder  and  high-handed  robbery,  is  effected  in 


454 


PRISON  DISCIPLINE  COMMUNION. 


most  cases  by  beheading.  The  criminal,  in  this  case,  has  his  throat 
drawn  across  a  bar,  by  a  rope  aroand  the  neck,  and  being  thus  ad- 
vantageously exposed  and  the  cords  all  strained,  the  huge  knife  of 
the  mrcr-kazdb,  executioner,  often  severs  the  head  from  the  body, 
at  a  single  blow.  Repeated  theft  is  punished  by  the  amputation  of 
a  hand,  an  arm,  an  ear,  or  the  nose.  The  trunk  of  a  limb  thus  am- 
putated is  dipped  immediately  into  a  cauldron  of  boiling  oil,  and 
mortification,  or  very  protracted  ulceration,  hardly  ever  ensues.  For 
adultery  and  murder  united,  I  have  known  a  female  buried  in  the 
earth  alive.  And  the  first  premier  of  the  present  Shah  was  stran- 
gled, or  rather,  smothered,  for  alleged  treason.  His  death  was  ef- 
fected by  being  placed  between  two  large  beds  and  a  file  of  men 
seating  themselves  upon  the  upper  one  closely  around  him.  Less 
serious  offences  are  punished  with  bastinadoing  and  whipping, — as 
heavy  fines  as  the  magistrate  can  obtain  being  also  exacted  in  con- 
nexion with  these  inflictions.  A  bribe  large  enough  to  satisfy  him 
will  of  course  avert  any  and  all  corporeal  punishments. 

Few  things  in  America  have  impressed  Mar  Yohannan  more 
strongly,  than  the  Immane  provisions  in  our  prisons.  On  visiting 
one  in  Charlestown,  for  instance,  seeing  a  Bible  in  every  cell — the 
sick  well-furnished  with  nurses,  medicine  and  a  physician,  the  in- 
mates all  well  clad,  cleanly  and  actively  employed  ;  and  at  the  close 
of  the  labors  of  the  day,  repairing  to  their  chapel  for  devotional  ex- 
ercises, listening  to  a  chapter  from  the  word  of  God — singing  their 
evening  hymn,  and  uniting  in  prayer  with  deep  apparent  solemnity, 
— "The  Bible  rules  in  America,  the  sword  in  Persia;  here,  light 
like  day  ;  there,  darkness  like  midnight,"  was  his  emphatic  and 
very  natural  comment ;  and  the  contrast  was  hardly  more  impres- 
sive to  his  mind  than  my  own.  It  is  the  Bible  that  makes  this  won- 
derful difference.  This  can  and  will  change  every  habitation  of 
cruelty  into  a  garden  and  city  of  our  God. 

3Iarch  7.  The  church  was  so  crowded  at  Ardishai,  that  the 
people  were  obliged  to  stand  as  closely  as  possible  together ;  and  as 
it  was  communion  season,  the  services  were  very  long, — nearly 
three  hours,  including  our  meeting;  but  the  great  congregation 
manifested  not  the  least  impatience  to  the  close.  And  every  morn- 
ing and  evening,  during  the  week,  as  priest  Yohannan  informed 
me,  almost  as  many  now  assemble  to  listen  to  the  good  word  of  the 
Lord.  The  general  attention  to  the  subject  of  religion  there  is  such 
as  to  arrest  the  observation  of  the  people  themselves,  who  say  to 
each  other,  that  their  oldest  men  have  never  before  witnessed  a  time 
of  so  much  interest.  A  circumstance  of  much  encouragement  at 
Ardishai  is,  that  a  number  who  were  drawn  away  by  the  Catholics 
have,  recently,  been  led  back  to  the  Nestorian  fold. 

I  was  deeply  pained  witli  the  appalling  heartlessness  with  which 
some  of  the  ecclesiastics  engaged  in  the  communion  services,  and 
with  the  indiscriminate  admission  of  all  ages  and  characters  to  the 
Lord's  table.    If  the  rite  of  conjirviatioii  exists  in  the  Nestorian 


PREPARATION  OF  THE  ELEMENTS  BAPTISM.  455 


canons,  nothing  of  it  appears  in  their  practice  so  far  as  I  have  ob- 
served. Children,  from  the  age  of  three  years — or  younger — 
are  allowed  and  encouraged  to  partake  of  the  elements,  which 
all  seem  to  regard  as  possessing  a  certain  magic  charm,  that  will 
somehow  tend  to  prepare  them  for  heaven,  or  rather  entitle  them 
to  it,  without  reference  to  any  influence  exerted  on  their  charac- 
ters. Korhdna,  (gift  or  offering,  oblatio,)  is  the  term  which  they 
apply  to  the  elements.  They  do  not  worship  them,  in  the  supersti- 
tious manner  of  the  Papists,  nor  hold  to  7'e.at  presence,  in  the  Papal 
sense  of  that  term.  They,  however,  appear  to  cherish  a  kind  of 
homage  for  the  bread  and  wine  which  is  not  very  intelligent  nor 
scriptural,  and  great  particularity  is  observed  in  the  preparation  of 
these  elements.  The  bread  must  be  baked  in  an  apartment  of  the 
church  ;  and  among  the  most  scrupulous,  the  wheat  must  be  ground 
in  a  consecrated  mill  [hand-mill],  separated  from  the  rest  in  the 
field  and  shelled  by  hand  instead  of  being  trodden  out  by  cattle. 
Alas,  in  how  many  things  do  these  fallen  Christians  strain  out  the 
gnat  and  swallow  the  camel !  As  nearly  as  I  have  been  able  to  as- 
certain, in  the  general  vagueness  of  their  views  on  spiritual  subjects, 
the  consubstantiation  of  the  Lutherans  would  very  well  define  the 
Nestoriaii  belief  in  relation  to  this  ordinance,  if  indeed,  that  term  be 
itself  well  defined  or  understood  by  those  who  adopt  it. 

The  Nestorians  sometimes  speak  of  having  witnessed  the  pres- 
ence of  the  Holy  Spirit  in  their  churches,  not  as  felt  merely,  but 
as  also  visible,  in  the  appearance  of  a  blue  vapor,  hovering  over  the 
elements  at  the  Lord's  supper,  or  the  consecrated  oil,  at  baptisms. 
Some  Romish  priest,  or  other  mystifying  illuminator,  may  possibly 
have  performed  miracles,  long  ago  in  these  regions,  by  means  of 
gas  or  otherwise,  and  thus  contributed  to  give  materiality  to  the 
spiritual  conceptions  of  this  people.  I  have  occasionally  found 
among  some  of  them  obscure  traces  European  light  of  this  same 
general  description. 

At  the  close  of  our  meeting,  several  children  were  baptized. 
The  ceremony  of  baptism,  (Umada)  among  the  Nestorians,  like  most 
of  their  religious  rites,  is  simple,  compared  with  the  forms  of  other 
oriental  sects.  They  have  a  room  in  the  church,  which  is  devoted 
to  baptism,  (Kunkee — place  of  consecration  ;  or  vidmodeeta ,  or  Bact 
mdiHodccta,  place,  or  house  of  baptism).  The  children  are  divested 
of  their  clothing  and  anointed  on  the  head  and  the  breast,  in  the 
form  of  the  cross,  with  consecrated  oil,  [kerne,  horn,  i.  e.  horn  of  oil, 
from  which  the  ancient  kings  and  prophets  were  wont  to  be  anoint- 
ed,— fully  written,  Kerna  d'mishkha).  They  are  then  set  into  a 
vessel  of  tepid  water  which  extends  up  to  the  neck  and  held  there 
by  a  deacon;  while  the  priest  takes  up  water  with  both  hands  three 
times  and  suffuses  it  over  the  head,  repeating  one  person  of  the 
Trinity  each  time.  I  observed  nothing  exceptionable  in  their  man- 
ner of  performing  this  ordinance,  except  the  oiling  and  crossing  of 
the  child,  and  the  same  heartlessness  and  want  of  solemnity  in  the 


456  FIRST  PROOF-SHEETS  BUFFALO-FIGHTING. 


ofEciators  which  marked  their  services  at  the  celebration  of  the 
Lord's  supper.  The  Nestorians  observe  no  rule  in  relation  to  the 
age  at  which  infants  shall  be  presented  for  baptism.  For  the  mu- 
tuaJ  convenience  of  the  parents  and  the  clergy,  some  festival  occa- 
sions are  usually  embraced  for  the  purpose;  particularly  the  day 
which  they  regard  as  commemorating  Christ's  baptism  by  John  in 
Jordan;  also,  the  day  of  his  crucifixion,  taking  the  idea  perhaps 
from  the  apostle's  figure  of  being  "baptized  unto  his  death." 

From  Ardishai,  we  rode  to  Alcai,  and  attended  a  meeting  at  that 
village.  The  audience  was  small,  in  consequence  of  the  Mussul- 
man master  being  there, — the  people  fearing  to  be  seen  by  him 
flocking  together,  lest  they  should  be  taken  up  and  compelled  to  go 
to  work.  I  dined  with  the  priests  of  the  village.  While  at  dinner, 
a  Mussulman,  from  the  vicinity,  came  in,  and  stated  that  his  cow  re- 
fused to  yield  her  usual  quota  of  milk  and  requested  the  elder  priest 
to  prescribe  some  charm  to  remedy  the  evil.  The  priest  took  a 
spoonful  of  salt  in  his  hand,  repeated  over  it  a  prayer  and  gave  it  to 
(he  Mussulman  to  administer  to  his  cow.  Priest  Yohannan  was 
much  mortified  by  this  superstitious  conduct  of  his  clerical  brother, 
and  apologized  by  saying  that  they  have  an  old  book  which  teaches 
them  many  such  foolish  practices. 

March  13.  The  proof-sheets  of  our  first  tract  in  the  Nestorian 
language  was  brought  into  my  study  for  correction.  This  is  in- 
deed the  first  shed,  ever  printed  in  that  language  and  character. 
As  it  was  laid  upon  my  table,  before  our  translators,  priest  Abra- 
ham and  Dunka,  they  were  struck  with  mute  astonishment  and 
rapture,  to  see  their  language  in  print ;  though  they  had  themselves 
assisted  me,  a  few  days  before,  in  preparing  the  same  matter  for  the 
press.  As  soon  as  recovery  from  their  surprise  allowed  them  utte- 
rance, "  it  is  time  to  give  glory  to  God,"  they  mutually  exclaimed, 
"  that  our  eyes  are  permitted  to  behold  the  commencement  of  print- 
ing books  our  people  !"  No  wonder  that  the  priests  are  thus  in- 
terested, pointing,  as  this  tract  does,  to  an  era  of  light  and  hope  for 
their  people.  In  the  evening,  I  held  a  meeting  with  about  twenty 
of  the  young  men  and  boys,  connected  with  our  seminary  and  print- 
ing office,  to  converse  with  them  on  the  concerns  of  their  souls.  I 
found  several  of  them  very  serious  and  tender  in  their  feelings. 

March  21.  Preached  at  Vazerova,  a  village  two  miles  east  of 
the  city.  Mar  Elias  was  with  me,  who  collected  the  congregation 
in  that  village  some  months  ago,  and  preaches  there  every  Sabbath 
with  great  acceptance,  and  apparently  with  very  good  effect.  In 
the  afternoon,  I  attended  meeting  in  the  village  of  Deegala,  a  mile 
east  of  the  city.  There  was  good  attendance,  but  our  service  was 
disturbed  by  the  departure  of  several  persons  who  were  called  out  by 
the  master  of  the  village.  It  being  Noo-7-osc,  new  year's  day,  the  Khan 
had  summoned  the  inhabitants  to  entertain  him  on  the  open  common 
with  an  exhibition  of  bvffalofighiing,  which  is  a  very  favorite 


A    V  K.  H  S  I  AM     S  1 1  L  I )  I  K  K 


FIFTr-FIRST  PSALM  BEARDS. 


457 


amusement  in  Persia,  at  this  season  of  the  year.  If  the  buffaloes 
have  been  well  fed  during  the  winter,  they  are  now  fresh  and 
strong,  having  rested  so  long  from  their  summer  toils.  To  add  to 
their  native  vivacity — or  rather,  ferocity — they  are  sometimes  liberal- 
ly treated  to  wine,  on  such  occasions,  it  being  well  understood  in 
Persia,  ihditjighting  follows  drinking,  whether  among  quadrupeds 
or  bipeds.  Nature  has  guarded  the  terrific  ferocity  to  which  the 
buffaloes  are  capable  of  being  excited,  by  the  conformation  of  their 
horns,  which  retreat  toward  the  neck  about  as  harmlessly  as  the 
horns  of  a  sheep. 

We  recently  translated  the  51st  Psalm,  to  insert  in  the  chapter 
in  our  first  tract,  on  the  necessity  of  a  new  heart.  As  I  was  admir- 
ing the  spirit  of  the  Psalm,  priest  Dunka  reminded  me,  that  the 
Nestorians  repeat  it  daily  in  the  ancient  Syriac,  in  their  regular 
devotions.  They  always  go  to  a  brook  or  spring  and  wash  the 
face  and  hands,  immediately  before  worship,  and  while  washing, 
repeat  in  a  whisper  a  part  of  this  Psalm,  beginning  with  the  second 
verse,  "  Wash  me  thoroughly  from  mine  iniquity  and  cleanse  me 
from  my  sin,"  etc.  Ai  the  commencement , of  their  worship,  in 
their  churches,  an  invocation  is  offered,  consisting  mainly  of  several 
verses  from  the  last  part  of  this  Psalm,  viz.,  *' O  Lord  open  thou 
my  lips,  and  my  mouth  shall  show  forth  thy  praise.  For  thou  de- 
sirest  not  sacrifice,  else  would  T  give  it;  thou  delightest  not  in 
burnt-offering ;  the  sacrifices  of  God  are  a  broken  spirit ;  a  broken 
and  a  contrite  heart,  0  God,  thou  wilt  not  despise."  The  very  promi- 
nent places  which  this  wonderful  Psalm  and  other  portions  of  Scrip- 
ture of  like  import,  hold  in  theNestorian  Liturgy,  have  often  strong- 
ly impressed  me  with  the  former  comparative  purity  of  this  ancient 
church,  and  the  general  excellence  of  the  matter  embodied  in  their 
church  service.  At  the  same  time,  there  is  more  or  less  that  is  ex- 
ceptionable in  it,  which  ought  never  to  be  translated. 

March  25.  The  soldiers,  who  keep  our  gate  and  premises,  were 
required  to  appear  with  their  regiment  for  review.  One  of  them 
sent  to  me,  requesting  that  our  mission  would  petition  the  Emeer- 
i-nizam,  in  behalf  of  his  long  beard,  which  was  in  danger  of  sharing 
the  common  fate  of  all  the  beards  of  the  troops,  i.  e.  he  shaved,  or 
rather,  clipped  closely  with  shears.  Though  the  poor  soldier  pro- 
bably valued  his  beard  far  above  rubies,  and  I  felt  no  particular 
hostility  to  it,  I  still  did  not  deem  it  my  duty  to  interfere.  The  in- 
cident reminded  me  of  the  rapidity  with  which  Asiatic  customs 
are  declining.  Mar  Yohannan,  however,  on  his  arrival  at  New 
York,  half  seriously  started  the  inquiry,  whether  the  beards  that 
are  so  rapidly  vanishing,  in  Persia,  in  this  day  of  change,  have  "noit 
all  come  round  the  globe  on  some  principle  of  transmigration,  and 
are  now  re-appearing  on  the  chins  of  young  men  in  America !  If 
this  idea  be  well  founded  and  beards  are  to  have  a  general  growth 
in  this  western  world,  I  should  perhaps  state,  for  the  information  of 
cultivators  and  admirers,  a  fact  or  two  in  relation  to  the  manner  in 
58 


458  HEALTH-RETREAT  MT.  SEIR  ORDINATION. 


which  they  are  treated  and  regarded  in  Persia.  The  Persians 
usuaJly  clip  the  beard  with  shears,  for  a  few  years,  until  it  acquires 
a  heavy  body.  When  they  allow  it  to  grow  long,  they  are  very 
particular  in  relation  to  the  color,  and  if  need  be,  paint  it  black, 
every  week  or  oftener,  as  Persian  ladies  paint  their  eye-brows. 
They  follow  this  practice,  until  age  so  wrinkles  their  faces,  that  a 
black  beard,  even,  can  no  longer  conceal  its  inroads,  when  suddenly, 
they  are  equally  partial  to  iohite  beards, — these  being  regarded  as 
such  invariable  emblems  of  dignity  and  wisdom,  that  in  Persian  and 
Turkish,  the  term,  Wlnte  Beard,  is  a  title  which  is  applied  to 
venerated  personages  and  often  to  magistrates,  and  carries  with  it 
great  weight  and  authority,  equivalent,  perhaps,  io  sage,  in  English  ; 
and  in  the  Nestorian  language,  the  same  term  is  equivalent  to  elder 
or  presbyter,  as  used  in  the  New  Testaraent. 

March  29.  I  went  up  to  the  small  village  on  Mt.  Seir,  to  com- 
mence building  a  health-retreat,  for  the  invalids  of  our  mission. 
We  feel  constrained  to  delay  this  provision  no  longer,  as  we  would 
save  our  lives  and  labors  to  our  field.  The  situation  of  Seir  is  re- 
markably fine.  It  is  nearly  one  thousand  feet  above  the  plain,  but 
is  reached  by  a  gradual  ascent,  and  is  only  about  five  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  city.  There,  we  may  hope  to  avoid  the  malaria,  and 
not  be  essentially  retarded  in  our  missionary  work.  It  is,  moreover, 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  grand  situations  that  I  ever  beheld, 
overlooking  the  city,  plain,  lake,  and  in  fact,  the  whole  province,  at 
a  single  view.  The  more  efficient  system  of  our  new  governor 
renders  the  mountain  declivities  less  insecure  than  they  formerly 
were,  though  we  must  still  use  precautions. 

I  started  from  home  this  morning  in  a  violent  storm,  which  was 
rain  on  the  plain,  but  snow  on  the  mountain.  I  regarded  it  as  so 
much  of  an  object  to  impress  our  workmen  at  the  outset  of  the  un- 
dertaking, with  the  importance  of  punctuality — tardy  as  Asiatics 
always  are — that  I  hesitated  not  to  encounter  the  inclemency  of 
the  weather.  I  was  not  surprised  that  the  masons  did  not  make 
their  appearance,  according  to  agreement ;  but  the  storm  abating 
a  little,  about  noon,  I  hired  several  common  laborers  of  the  village, 
and  superintended  them  myself,  while  they  dug  a  trench  for  the 
foundation  of-the  wall.  The  ground,  where  we  dug  this  trench,  and 
on  the  declivity  around,  is  filled  with  fine  licorice. 

April  18.  Preached  Mr.  Stocking's  ordination  sermon,  from 
1  Cor.  9:  16,  "For  though  I  preach  the  gospel,  I  have  nothing  to 
glory  of;  for  necessity  is  laid  upon  me;  yea,  wo  is  unto  me  if  I 
preach  not  the  gospel."  The  services  were  performed  in  the  Nes- 
torian church  of  this  city,  (St.  Mary's,)  to  the  use  of  which  we  were 
welcomed  by  the  Nestorian  bishops.  The  occasion  was  rendered 
peculiarly  interesting,  by  the  presence  and  serious.attention  of  a 
crowded  Nestorian  audience,  who,  at  the  close,  advanced  individu- 
ally of  their  own  accord,  and  kissed  Mr.  Stocking's  hand,  in  recog- 
nition of  his  consecration,  while  the  venerable  Mar  Elias  kissed  his 
head,  as  a  token  that  he  also  welcomed  him  as  one  worthy  and  du- 


FRENCH  GUESTS  DISCUSSION. 


459 


ly  authorized  to  break  the  bread  of  life  to  his  people.  We  were 
led  to  advise  Mr.  Stocking  to  receive  ordination,  particularly  from 
the  present  call,  in  this  province,  to  preach  the  gospel — a  call  too 
loud  for  the  two  senior  members  of  the  mission — the  only  ones  be- 
sides Mr.  S.  then  able  to  use  the  native  language — and  in  fact  for 
us  all,  adequately  to  answer.  So  numerous  are  the  doors  thrown 
open,  and  so  strong  is  the  importunity  of  both  ecclesiastics  and 
people,  that  we  should'  enter  their  churches  every  Sabbath  and  pro- 
claim to  them  the  glad  tidings,  that  Mr.  S.  had  felt  constrained  to 
do  this,  for  some  months,  in  an  informal  manner.  It  appeared 
quite  clear,  therefore,  that  he  was  called  of  the  Lord,  yea,  that  a 
"  necessity"  was  laid  upon  him,  "  to  X^ke  part  in  this  ministry." 

June  12.  Several  Frenchmen,  who  were  connected  with  the  late 
embassy  to  Persia,  arrived  on  their  way,  by  Bagdad,  back  to  France. 
They  are  the  guests  of  the  prince-governor. 

June  14.  His  Royal  Highness  sent  to  us  yesterday,  inviting  us 
to  partake  of  a  collation  with  him  and  his  French  guests,  to-day, 
under  his  tent  at  Mt.  Seir ;  and  proposing  that  they  should  all  come 
and  dine  with  us  at  evening.  It  being  the  Sabbath  day,  yesterday, 
we  of  course  deferred  our  reply  until  this  morning.  The  most  in- 
teresting circumstance,  connected  with  the  levee  on  the  mountain, 
was  a  religious  discussion,  which  took  place  between  the  prince  and 
M.  Tlieophane,  a  French  Catholic  priest,  who  has  come  to  Oroo- 
miah  to  commence  Papal  operations,  and  was,  to-day,  one  of  the 
European  party.  'Come  Mr.  Holladay,'  said  the  prince,  (knowing 
that  Mr.  H.  could  speak  some  French,)  'dispute  with  M.  Theo- 
phane  about  the  power  of  the  Pope ;  we  will  beat  down  the  Pope's 
power,  and  not  allow  of  his  arrogant  assumptions ;  I  disputed  long 
with  M.  T.  last  evening  on  this  subject,  and  have  often  done  the 
same  before.'  Mr.  Holladay  excused  himself  by  replying  that  he 
did  not  speak  French  very  fluently,  wisely  deeming  it  inexpedient 
to  expose  his  religious  belief  to  his  imperfect  command  of  a  foreign 
tongue,  in  those  very  delicate  circumstances.  His  Royal  Highness 
himself,  therefore,  undertook  the  burden  of  discussion.  '  M.  Theo- 
phane,'  (who  was  outside  of  the  tent  at  the  time,)  the  prince  called 
out, '  come,  let  us  hear  what  you  can  say  for  the  Pope.'  M.  T.  whh 
all  the  assurance  of  a  Jesuit,  promptly  accepted  the  challenge,  and 
presented  himself  before  the  Muhammedan  prince,  as  the  champion 
of  Papacy.  He  commenced  by  asserting  the  absolute  authority  of 
the  Pope,  in  all  things  spiritual,  and  drew  analogies  from  despotic 
governments,  (which  he  supposed  would  take  well  in  Persia,)  but 
the  prince  replied  in  so  prompt  and  able  a  manner,  that  the  Laza- 
rist  soon  found  himself  in  an  attitude  of  great  embarrassment, — the 
greater,  on  perceiving  that  his  royal  antagonist  had  a  powerful  co- 
adjutor in  one  of  the  French  gentlemen,  who  was  a  free-thinker. 
Poor  M.  T.  colored  and  trembled  like  an  aspen  leaf;  and  no  mar- 
vel ;  for  there  he  was,  strongly  assailed  on  the  tender  point  of  the 
Pope's  authority,  by  a  Persian  prince  sustained  by  one  of  his  own 


460 


A  FREE-THINKER  BUILDING. 


countrymen, — and  all  this,  in  the  presence  of  his  Protestant  adver- 
saries, as  he  of  course  regarded  us.  In  many  cases,  we  could  not 
indeed  second  the  positions  of  the  prince  and  the  French  infidel, 
any  more  than  those  of  the  Papist.  When,  however,  they  appealed 
to  me,  with  propositions  founded  on  truth,  I  did  not  hesitate  to  give 
them  my  sanction,  and  would  have  done  the  same  for  M.  Theophane. 
In  one  instance,  for  example,  the  prince  turned  to  me  thus:  'I  tell 
him  [the  Lazarist]  how  can  the  Pope  be  God's  lieutenant?  He  is 
only  a  man,  like  ourselves  !'  '  So  say,'  I  replied.  A  principle 
so  scriptural  and  Protestant,  as  well  as  in  keeping  with  common 
sense,  I  must  of  course  second  ;  and  so  of  others  of  a  like  character. 

For  the  free-thinking  Frenchman,  moreover,  I  felt  a  strong  de- 
gree of  compassionate  sympathy.  An  intelligent  man  is  excusable, 
for  being  disgusted  with  Papal  corruptions;  and  if  he  knows  the 
christian  religion  in  no  better  form,  it  is  not  strange  that  he  falls 
into  skeptical  principles.  Such,  indeed,  is  the  almost  necessary  re- 
sult of  his  circumstances.  And  is  it  not  in  this  way,  that  Papacy 
is  to  be  prostrated?  It  brings  forth  infidelity  as  its  legitimate  off- 
spring, nurtures  it  in  its  own  bosom  and  rears  it  up  to  become  its 
own  giant  destroyer. 

In  the  evening,  the  prince  and  his  European  guests,  amounting, 
in  connexion  with  our  own  circle,  to  twenty  individuals,  dined  at 
our  house — the  largest  European  and  American  party  that  we  have 
ever  seen  together  at  Oroomiah.  The  evening  passed  agreeably. 
As  the  arrangement  was  proposed  by  His  Royal  Highness,  on  whose 
protection  and  favor  the  prosperity  of  our  work  is  more  or  less  de- 
pendent, we  could  not  well  decline  it,  had  we  been  disposed. 

June  21.  I  took  leave  of  the  workmen,  at  our  health-retreat  on 
Mt.  Seir,  having  stood  among  them  from  morning  till  night  almost 
every  week  day,  for  nearly  three  months,  and  much  of  the  time  la- 
boring with  them,  to  prevent  the  waste  of  missionary  funds.  It 
has  been  a  heavy  undertaking,  especially,  from  the  peculiarity  of 
the  present  season,  as  it  has  rained,  more  or  less,  three-fourths  of 
the  days  during  this  whole  period, — a  thing  almost  unparalleled  in 
Persia.  Many  times  have  I  been  drenched  and  remained  so  for 
hours.  To  dry  bricks  by  the  sun,  for  the  large  building,  in  such  a 
season,  has  been  extremely  difficult;  yet  two  hundred  thousand 
have  been  made,  dried  and  laid;  and  a  stone  wall,  surrounding  the 
premises,  200  feet  long  on  two  sides  and  135  feet  on  the  other  two, 
has  been  carried  up  to  the  height  of  fifteen  or  sixteen  feet.  The 
premises  are  necessarily  thus  spacious,  to  accommodate  all  the  fami- 
lies of  our  mission,  during  the  hot  weather  of  summer,  and  our 
seminary  at  the  same  time;  and  it  was  indispensable  to  secure  them 
by  this  high,  strong  wall,  to  afford  us  the  prospect  of  even  tolerable 
safety  from  the  marauding  Koords.  That  the  undertaking  has  been 
thus  successfully  carried  forward,  toward  completion,  in  such  unfa- 
vorable circumstances,  affords  us  new  occasion  to  set  up  our  "Eben- 
ezer"and  inscribe  upon  it,  "  hitherto  hath  the  Lord  helped  us." 


RETURN  MRS.  PERKINs's  STATE  OF  HEALTH. 


461 


The  materials,  both  for  the  building  and  the  wall,  being  taken  from 
the  earth  on  the  spot,  and  the  price  of  labor  being  extremely  low, 
render  the  expense  of  their  erection  very  moderate. 

How  happy  should  we  have  felt,  could  ice,  with  safety,  have  gone 
directly  to  this  summer-retreat  to  reside.  But  so  impaired  was  Mrs. 
Perkins's  health,  that  previous  journeying,  to  raise  her  prostrated 
system,  appeared  quite  mdispensable,  to  the  reasonable  hope  of  per- 
manent relief,  even  from  the  more  healthy  air  of  Mt.  Seir. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

RETURN  TO  AMERICA. 

While  first  preparing  to  leave  my  native  country,  the  inquiry 
was  often  addressed  to  me,  by  friends,  'Do  you  not  expect  to  return  ?' 
To  which  I  as  often  replied,  'I  do  not  expect,  nor  desire  to  return; 
nothing  but  calamity  could  bring  me  back  ;  and  this  I  cannot  of 
course  desire.'  The  prostration  of  Mrs.  Perkins's  health  and  the 
rapid  inroads  of  an  alarming  disease,  proved  in  the  event  to  be  such 
a  calamity.  Entire  relaxation  from  care  and  labor,  a  temporary 
retreat  from  the  pestilential  climate  of  Oroomiah  and  along  voyage, 
were  the  means  to  which,  in  the  opinion  of  those  competent  to 
judge,  we  were  clearly  called  upon  to  resort,  or  soon  be  compelled 
to  yield  to  the  still  more  trying  alternative  of  abandoning  forever 
our  missionary  field. 

There  is  a  sensitiveness  in  the  christian  community  on  the  sub- 
ject of  the  return  of  missionaries,  and  to  some  extent,  doubtless,  a 
reasonable  one.  Missionaries  should  certainly  not  return  without 
imperative  and  unavoidable  reasons,  incurring  thereby  as  they  must, 
heavy  expenses,  as  well  as  serious  interruption  of  their  work.  And 
as  the  above  general  statement,  in  relation  to  our  own  case,  may  be 
an  insufficient  explanation,  I  will  give  the  circumstances  more  at 
length,  which  1  can  best  do  by  a  brief  reference  to  documents. 
From  a  letter  addressed  to  a  Secretary  of  the  American  Board, 
respecting  the  state  of  Mrs.  Perkins's  health,  more  than  a  year  pre- 
vious to  our  leaving  the  field,  is  the  following,  viz.,  "Probably  few, 
if  any,  missionaries  have  left  America,  with  health  and  constitutions 
more  perfect  than  Mrs.  P.  possessed,  when  we  came  to  this  country. 
And  few,  you  are  aware,  have  been  subjected  to  exposures  and  trials 
to  surpass  hers,  particularly  in  the  early  part  of  our  missionary  ex- 
perience. The  result  is  that  her  originally  fine  constitution  is  bro- 
ken down,  and  an  alarming  disease  seems  to  be  settling  upon  her. 
You  may  recollect  the  sufferings  which  Mrs.  P.  encountered,  on 
our  way  to  Persia,  and  the  very  severe  sickness  she  experienced, 


462 


VIEWS  OF  THE  MISSION. 


immediately  after  our  arrival  at  Tabreez.  Recovery  from  that  sick- 
ness seemed  entirely  beyond  the  reach  of  hope  for  some  time;  nor 
did  she  ever  fully  recover  from  the  effects  of  it.  Though  she  has 
since  enjoyed  tolerable  health,  much  of  the  time,  stilJ,  to  one  pre- 
viously acquainted  with  her,  it  has  always  been  obvious,  that  her 
constitution  was  irreparably  injured  by  her  sickness  at  Tabreez. 
The  climate  of  Oroomiah  has  affected  her  seriously.  Often  has 
she  suffered  severe  attacks  of  fever ;  and  she  has  been  so  much  af- 
flicted with  cphthalmy,  during  a  considerable  part  of  our  residence 
here,  as  to  be  unable  to  read  and  write.  Mr^;.  P.'s  repeated  bereave- 
ments, in  the  death  of  our  three  children,  have  also  borne  heavily 
upon  her  already  impaired  constitution.  Each  has  been  more  severe 
than  the  previous,  in  proportion  to  the  increased  age  of  the  loved 
object  removed,  and  has  given  to  her  system  a  correspondingly  more 
serious  shock. 

"  The  result  of  these  sicknesses  and  trials  is,  that  for  the  last  two 
years  and  a  half,  Mrs.  P.  has  had  symptoms  of  epilepsy,  and  within 
the  last  few  months,  she  has  had  two  severe  attacks  of  that  disease. 
The  last  occurred  a  few  days  ago,  since  the  death  of  William,  our 
only  child.  The  symptoms  have  appeared  whea  her  system  has  be- 
come febrile,  which  is  very  often  the  case  with  us  all,  in  this  cli- 
mate." 

The  following  is  a  communication  of  a  later  date,  addressed  to 
me  by  the  other  members  of  our  mission. 

"  Oroomiah,  YIth  Nov.  1840. 

Rev.  J.  Perkins, 

Dear  Brother, — When  the  subject  of  Mrs.  Perkins's  health  was 
last  discussed  by  the  mission,  we  fondly  hoped  that  the  careful  use 
of  necessary  precautions  would  prevent  a /reg'wcn^  recurrence  of  the 
attacks  to  which  she  is  subject,  or  greatly  mitigate  their  violence ; 
so  that  your  valuable  labors  would  be  saved  to  our  mission  without 
a  greater  sacrifice  on  the  part  of  yourself  and  family,  than  that  to 
which  we  are  all  subjected  by  a  residence  in  this  insalubrious  cli- 
mate; but  the  distressing  nature  of  Mrs.  Perkins's  last  illness  has 
led  us  to  take  a  different  view  of  this  painful  subject.  Deeply  sen- 
sible, as  we  are,  of  the  greatness  of  the  loss  which  we  must  sustain 
in  your  removal  from  the  field  of  our  common  labors,  nve  can  no 
longer  withhold  our  unqualified  consent  to  any  measures  which  hold 
out  a  prospect  of  relief  to  our  dear  afflicted  sister ;  and  we  are  de- 
cidedly of  the  opinion,  that  it  is  expedient  for  you,  by  the  first  safe 
opportunity,  to  endeavor,  by  exercise  and  change  of  scene,  to  effect  a 
change  in  Mrs.  Perkins's  general  health. 

We  would  leave  it  entirely  to  your  own  discretion  to  decide  on 
the  length  of  your  journey,  and  the  expediency  of  a  voyage  to  Amer- 
ica, believjng  that  you  will  be  guided  by  a  sense  of  duty,  and  that 


TIES  TO  OUR  FIELD  OPINION  OF  PHYSICIANS. 


463 


the  duration  of  your  absence  must  depend  upon  circumstances  wliich 
cannot  now  be  anticipated. 

We  feel  that  in  your  affliction,  we  are  afflicted;  weprayjthat  this 
heavy  trial  may  be  blessed  to  both  yourselves  and  us;  that  you  may 
both  be  sustained  in  it  by  the  gracious  hand  of  our  heavenly  Father ; 
and  that,  if  the  will  of  God  be  so,  the  life  of  our  dear  sister  may  be 
spared,  and  her  health  restored.  We  commit  and  commend  you 
and  yours,  dear  brother,  to  the  care  of  Him  who  never  slumbers  nor 
sleeps,  and  who,  we  are  confident,  will  never  leave  you  nor  forsake 
you,  least  of  all  when  you  are  passing  through  the  deep  waters  of 
affliction. 

Be  assured  that  our  sympathies  and  our  prayers  will  follow  you, 
and  that  we  are,  with  much  affection, 

Your  brethren  and  fellow  laborers, 
(Signed)  A.  L.  Holladay, 

Wsi.  R.  Stocking, 
WiLLARD  Jones, 
A.  H.  Wright, 
E.  Breath." 

The  lateness  of  the  season,  when  the  above  letter  was  written,  for- 
bade our  attempting  to  journey  at  least  until  the  ensuing  spring. 
Nor  is  it  prudent  to  travel  with  a  family,  over  the  snowy  heights  of 
Armenia,  until  the  summer  months.  During  the  interval,  Mr^,  P. 
was  twice  visited  with  serious  illness,  but  we  had  no  other  alterna- 
tive than  to  wait  patiently  for  a  proper  season  of  the  year  to  jour- 
ney for  her  benefit,  being  diligently  engaged,  meanwhile,  in  our 
pressing  missionary  labors.  And  when  the  time  at  length  came,  how 
did  our  hearts  shrink  from  leaving,  even  temporarily,  the  charming- 
field  in  which  we  had  been  permitted  to  strike  the  first  blow  and 
toil  SO  long,  especially  at  a  period,  when  we  were  not  only  going 
forth,  weeping  and  bearing  precious  seed,  but  coming  again  with 
rejoicing,  bringing  our  sheaves  with  us.  There,  too,  are  our  child- 
ren's sepulchres,  and  the  ten  thousand  nameless  ties  that  bind  us  to 
our  Persian  home. 

We  left  Oroomiah,  with  the  general  expectation  of  finding  it  ne- 
cessary to  visit  America,  though  with  sonne  hope  that  a  journey  into 
Turkey  might  suffice ;  and  we  waived  the  fiiil  decision  of  the  ques- 
tion, until  we  reached  Constantinople.  There  we  had  an  opportu- 
nity of  consulting  several  eminent  English  physicians,  particularly 
Drs.  Davy  (a  brother  of  Sir  H.  Davy)  and  Dorson,  who  were  sent 
out  by  the  British  government,  to  regulate  the  hospital  system  of 
the  Turks,  and  who  were  very  kind,  in  attending  to  Mrs.  P.'s  case. 
They  and  our  missionary  friends  were  of  opinion,  that  nothing  pro- 
mised so  much  for  the  benefit  of  her  health  as  the  contemplated 
voyage.  And  it  is  my  grateful  privilege  to  record,  that  our  antici- 
pations of  benefit  from  this  measure  have  been  happily  realized  in 
the  improvement  of  her  health. 


464 


JDT^PATITTJIIE  CBOSSING  THE  PLAIN. 


The  inhabitants  of  Oroomiah  have  a  quaint  saying  to  express 
their  strong  attachment  to  their  native  soil,  "  Beat  me,  but  do  not 
drive  me  away  from  Oroomiah  and  to  this  sentiment  our  hearts 
could  fully  respond,  when,  on  the  morning  of  July  5,  1841 — we 
found  ourselves  ready  to  commence  our  journey.  Our  house  was 
filled  with  Nestorians  during  the  forenoon,  who  came  to  express 
to  us  their  sorrow  at  our  departure,  and  tender  to  us  their  best 
wishes  and  prayers  for  our  safety  on  the  way  and  our  speedy  return. 
Thus  occupied,  we  lingered  until  afternoon,  then  dined  and  united 
ia  prayer  with  our  missionary  companions,  closed  the  doors  of  our 
dwelling  and  mounted  our  horses.  The  members  of  the  mission 
accompanied  us  a  few  miles  from  the  city.  So  large  a  crowd  had 
assembled  around  our  gate,  when  we  started,  to  bid  us  farewell,  that 
we  found  it  extremely  difficult  to  make  our  way  through  them.  And  a 
number  of  our  Nestorian  acquaintances  followed  us  far  on  the  road, 
the  venerable  Mar  Ellas,  though  on  foot,  being  the  last  to  turn  back, 
who,  in  spite  of  our  remonstrances,  walked  by  the  side  of  our  horses, 
between  two  and  three  miles,  in  the  hot  sun,  before  he  would  give 
us  his  parting  benediction. 

As  we  rode  across  the  great  plain,  I  was  forcibly  impressed,  as  I 
had  so  often  been  before,  with  its  surpassing  beauty  and  fertility. 
On  every  side,  it  was  now  waving  under  an  abundant  wheat  har- 
vest, which  the  busy,  joyful  reapers  were  cutting  down  and  gather- 
ing into  stacks.  "Not  another  so  charming  a  scene,"  I  remarked, 
"  shall  I  witness  until  I  reach  America."  "  Nor  then,"  replied  Mr. 
Breath,  who  is  from  Illinois,  "  will  you  behold  such  a  land,  unless 
you  see  the  American  bottom,  on  the  Mississippi." 

We  rode  twelve  miles,  to  the  village  of  Chungaralee,  where  we 
found  our  tent,  which  had  been  carried  forward  by  the  muleteer,  al- 
ready pitched  upon  the  green  grass,  on  the  bank  of  the  beautiful 
Nazloo  river.  We  took  some  refreshments,  had  evening  worship 
and  retired  early  to  rest,  filled  with  tender  recollections  of  Oroo- 
miah, and  with  trembling  solicitude  for  the  result  of  the  great 
undertaking  before  us. 

July  6.  We  rose  at  day-break,  rode  briskly  before  our  loads, 
twenty  miles,  and  reached  Gavalan  about  nine  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing. Mar  Yohannan  had  preceded  us  a  week,  to  obtain  permission 
from  his  friends  and  make  preparation  to  accompany  us.  Our  mis- 
sion had  tried  to  dissuade  him ;  but  he  had  been  too  long  and  too 
ardently  bent  on  visiting  the  goodly  land  and  the  good  people  that 
had  sent  the  missionaries,  to  be  turned  from  his  purpose,  especially 
when  such  an  opportunity  as  that  of  accompanying  me  presented. 
We  told  him  that  we  could  not  help  him  to  any  means  for  travel- 
ling; but  he  was  resolved  on  going  at  his  own  expense.  Our  mis- 
sion requested  me  to  take  care  of  him,  justly  deeming  it  a  matter  of 
high  importance  that  he  should  be  benefitted  and  not  injured,  by  this 
great  and  novel  undertaking.  The  bishop  had  not  obtained  his 
father's  permission,  though  he  had  been  importuning  him  00  long, 


bishop's  departure  MINERALS  S ALMAS 


465 


and  had  the  whole  time  been  fully  resolved  on  the  enterprise  at  all 
hazards.  He  soon  engaged  his  episcopal  brother,  Mar  Joseph,  who 
had  accompanied  us  to  Gavalan,  to  intercede  with  his  lather  on  the 
subject.  It  was  deeply  interesting  to  observe  the  importance  in  his 
mind  of  securing  that  point,  (though  resolved  on  going  perhaps 
even  without  it,)  evincing  a  very  commendable  degree  of  dutifulness 
in  the  son,  who  is  more  than  forty  years  old,  and  a  bishop,  whom 
custom  requires  even  his  parents  to  address  by  the  title  of  Aboona, 
our  father,  as  well  as  to  salute  him  by  kissing  his  hand.  He  was, 
however,  doubtless,  influenced  by  the  strong  impression  which  exists 
in  all  orientals,  that  no  enterprise  will  prosper,  if  undertaken  with- 
out a  fatkerh  sanction  and  a  father''s  blessing.  In  the  evening, 
they  all  came  to  our  tent,  the  father's  permission  having  been  finally 
obtained.  The  venerable  old  man  committed  his  son  in  a  very  for- 
mal manner  to  my  hands,  and  I  engaged  to  take  care  of  him. 

Jubj  7.  Very  early  this  morning,  the  bishop  sent  his  bed  (a  sin- 
gle Yorgdn,  comforter,  and  pillow)  and  Hoorjin,  carpet-bag,  to  our 
tent  to  be  put  up  with  our  loads.  Soon  afterward,  his  mother  and  sis- 
ters, their  hearts  failing  them,  despatched  a  brother  to  take  back  the 
effects  and  thus  prevent  his  going.  But  it  was  too  late.  The  loads 
were  on  the  horses  and  on  the  way.  The  villagers  also  assembled 
and  added  their  remonstrances  to  those  of  the^family.  But  the  bish- 
op had  obtained  his  father's  permission ;  and  with  this  he  felt  at 
liberty  to  break  over  ail  remairiing  barriers.  Pushing  his  way 
through  the  great  concourse,  he  suddenly  mounted  his  horse  and 
rode  away. 

The  declivity  on  the  western  side  of  the  ridge,  which  separates 
Oroomiah  from  Salmas,  is  long  and  gradual.  About  halfway  down 
is  a  level  section,  which,  as  we  crossed  it,  rung  and  reverberated  as 
though  the  ground  were  hollow  under  our  feet, — a  circumstance 
that  I  have  often  noticed  here  and  elsewhere,  in  the  East,  and  may 
be  somewhat  peculiar  to  lime-stone  countries.  A  great  variety  of 
minerals  arrested  our  attention.  .  This,  like  all  the  Koordish  ranges, 
and  indeed  all  the  wild  mountains  on  our  route,  would  afford  rich 
fields  for  geological  investigation.  I  picked  up  specimens  only  of 
quartz  and  marble  on  this  ridge.  I  vfras  tempted  to  gather  many 
more,  but  too  long  a  land  journey  lay  before  us,  to  allow  the  addi- 
tional weight  to  our  loads. 

The  district  of  Salmas  is  much  colder  and  less  fertile  than  Oroo- 
miah, but  is  still  a  delightful  valley,  containing  about  fifty  villages, 
some  of  which  are  quite  large,  each  numbering  two  or  three  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  Dilman,  in  the  centre,  is  a  fine  walled  town, 
and  the  residence  of  the  governor,  Yahya  Khan,  a  Koord,  whose 
sister  is  the  favorite  wife  of  the  king.  The  town  of  Salmas,  in  the 
upper  end  of  the  valley,  is  the  old  Armenian  capital,  now  much  in 
decay.  Mr.  Ainsworth,  an  English  traveller,  sent  out  under  the 
joint  patronage  of  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge 
and  the  Geographical  Society,  states  that  there  is  no  such  town  as 

59 


466 


MULETEER  DISTRICT  AND  CITY  OF  KHOY. 


Salmas ;  that  this  name  is  applied  only  to  the  district, — a  mistake 
into  which  he  fell,  from  the  f^ct,  that  the  natives,  by  way  of  emi- 
nence, call  it,  Shaker,  the  city.  The  same  is  true  of  Oroomiah. 
A  native  does  not  usually  call  the  town  by  that  name,  but  Shahtr. 
And  yet  there  is  a  city,  as  well  as  a  province,  w^hose  name  is  pro- 
perly Oroomiah.  I  visited  our  school  at  Oolah,  where  we  stopped, 
and  found  the  scholars  doing  very  well. 

July  8.  Our  muleteer,  who  belongs  in  Dilman,  importuned  me 
yesterday  to  allow  him  to  go  home  and  supply  himself  with  bread 
for  the  journey,  as  there  is  a  great  scarcity  of  provisions,  after  leav- 
ing Persia,  on  the  route  to  Erzroom.  I  gave  him  permission  to  be 
absent  until  noon  torday^  at  which  time  he  solemnly  promised  to  re- 
turn. He  came,  by  being  sent  for,  near  sun-set,  with  plausible 
excuses  enough  for  his  tardiness,  and  too  many  to  be  half  of  them 
true;  but  I  was  not  disappointed;  for  the  w?M/t^ccr5  in  Persia  are 
commonly  among  the  most  treacherous  of  that  treacherous  people. 
We  started  soon  after  he  came,  intending  to  ride  during  the  night, 
and  reach  Khoy  before  stopping.  We  had  proceeded,  however, 
only  about  six  miles,  when  we  were  overtaken  by  a  thunder-storm. 
Happening  to  be  near  the  Mohammedan  village  of  Ahrawan,  we 
sought  a  shelter  in  the  house  of  a  peasant.  Meanwhile  our  mule- 
teer had  lingered  and  taken  another  road,  and  we  were  consequent- 
ly obliged  to  lie  down  upon  the  floor  without  our  bedding  and  thus 
pass  the  night.  The  singularly  rainy  season  of  Oroomiah  extended 
to  Salmas  also,  as  we  now  had  abundant  demonstration. 

July  9.  We  rose  early  from  our  hard  beds,  poorly  refreshed,  and 
started  on  our  way.  We  at  length  overtook  the  muleteer,  who  had 
passed  the  night  in  the  same  village  with  ourselves,  while  each 
party  was  ignorant  that  the  other  was  there.  Khoy  is  second  only 
to  Oroomiah,  in  point  of  beauty  and  fertility,  of  all  the  districts  that 
I  have  seen  in  Persia,  or  in  Asia.  The  valley  is  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  mountains.  Near  our  road  is  a  low  mountain  of  rock  salt, 
from  which  considerable  quantities  are  quarried.  Four  miles  be- 
fore reaching  the  city,  we  crossed  Kdtul-chai,  killing-river,  by  a 
strong  bridge  built  of  brick  and  stone.  From  thence  to  the  city, 
the  road  is  studded,  all  the  way,  with  two  rows  of  willows  and  a  wa- 
ter-course between  them,  on  either  side,  forming  one  of  the  most 
delightful  avenues  that  exists  in  Persia.  On  the  west,  at  a  little 
distance,  is  a  splendid  summer  palace  of  the  prince-governor.  The 
town  and  its  walls  are  in  much  better  repair  than  is  the  case  with 
most  cities  in  Persia;  and  it  has,  both  within  and  without,  a  pecu- 
liarly neat,  tasteful  appearance,  resembling  an  Italian,  more  than  a 
Persian,  town.  But  the  climate  of  this  beautiful  district  is  so  un- 
healthy, that  its  inhabitants  all  wear  a  sallow,  cadaverous  complexion. 

July  10.  Eight  miles  in  a  westerly  direction  from  Khoy,  brought 
us  over  the  plain  to  the  large  village  of  Pera,  surrounded  by  fruitful 
gardens.  The  harvesters  were  thick  and  active  as  swarms  of  bees 
on  all  parts  of  the  plain,  cutting  down  the  crop  and  carrying  it  to 


A  FCR5IAN  *tnLETEf.lt,WITH  HIS  WINTtK  CLOAX  OF  GOATSKPT. 


THRESHING  FLOOD  SUBLWrE  SCENE. 


467 


the  threshing-floors,  or  grassy  patches,  upon  which  the  sheaves  are 
arranged  ia  a  circle  and  threshed  in  the  ancient  manner,  by  cattle 
and  horses,  driven  ai'ound  upon  them,  and  drawing  the  threshing- 
machine.  This  machine  consists  of  a  cylinder,  thickly  set  with 
small  chisels  pointing  outward,  and  fitted  into  a  small  frame  so  as  to 
revolve,  a  boy  sitting  upon  the  frame  and  driving  the  cattle  in  a 
brisk  trot.  This  process  cuts  the  straw  fine  tor  fodder  and  for 
mixing  with  mud  for  plaster,  as  well  as  rapidly  shells  out  the  grain. 
The  mass  is  afterward  thrown  up,  on  a  windy  day,  with  a  wooden 
fork,  and  the  chaff  is  thus  separated  from  the  wheat.  Near  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  there  had  been  a  great  destruction  in  the 
wheat-fields,  two  days  before,  from  an  extraordinary  flood  caused 
by  the  heavy  rain  which  overtook  us  in  Salmas.  A  torrent  came 
down  with  such  suddenness  and  power,  as  to  sweep  everything  be- 
fore it.  It  even  carried  off  one  young  man,  whom  it  was  not  possi- 
ble to  rescue  until  he  was  drowned.  The  bereaved  family  were 
still  making  their  lamentation. 

The  ascent  of  the  mountain  west  of  Khoy  is  gradual,  and  perhaps 
ten  miles  long.  In  many  places,  the  path  was  washed  and  gullied 
so  as  seriously  to  impede  our  passing.  The  rocky  foundations  were 
in  some  cases  laid  bare,  there  being  no  forests  and  roots  of  trees  to 
obstruct  the  washing  of  the  torrents  on  the  declivities;  and  in  one 
instance,  the  road  was  entirely  filled  up  and  intercepted  by  an  ava- 
lanche of  earth.  The  whole  scene  forcibly  reminded  us  of  the  im- 
pressiveness  of  the  figures  used  by  our  Lord,  of  the  houses  built 
respectively  upon  the  rock  and  the  sand,  and  their  condition  "  when 
the  rains  descended  and  the  floods  came."  From  the  abundant 
showers  of  this  season,  this  mountain  was  still  clothed  with  luxuriant 
verdure;  and  the  gentle  slopes  and  swells,  waving  under  their  rich 
growth  of  grass  and  flowers,  stood  in  striking  contrast  with  the 
barren  sterility  of  most  Persian  mountains,  and  of  this,  in  ordinary 
seasons.  As  we  reached  the  summit,  we  were  sprinkled  by  a 
shower.  The  snow  had  but  recently  melted.  We  were  on  a  level 
with  the  clouds.  Clear  spots  of  sky  appeared  through  them,  and 
rain-bows  were  formed  by  the  great  drops  that  were  falling.  These 
almost  fairy  scenes  were  succeeded  by  one  yet  more  beautiful  and 
striking.  On  the  western  side  of  the  table-land,  at  the  top  of  this 
range,  rises  a  bold  ridge,  in  solitary  grandeur,  which  was  also  now 
covered  with  rich  green  grass,  except  here  and  there  a  patch  of 
snow,  or  naked  primitive  rocks.  The  clouds  and  fog  were  gently 
rolling  on  the  summit  and  along  the  sides,  and  heavy  showers  of 
rain  were  pouring  down  upon  it,  alternately  advancing  and  reced- 
ing from  end  to  end,  almost  with  the  precision  and  regularity  of  an 
army  in  its  evolutions  at  a  review.  This  table-land  expands  into  a 
valley,  in  which  are  several  small  villages.  Passing  across  it,  we 
stopped  at  Zoraba,  which  is  about  thirty-five  miles  from  Khoy, 
The  inhabitants  had  all  gone  back  among  the  mountains  to  dwell 
in  tents  and  range  with  their  flocks,  except  a  single  individual  who 


468 


LOSS  OF  HORSES- 


1  INSECURITY. 


remained  to  keep  post-horses  in  readiness,  for  Tartars  and  travellers. 
Our  muleteer  lingered  behind,  and  our  tent  and  bed  did  not  reach 
us  until  8  o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  weather  was  cold,  cloudy 
and  damp ;  and  Mrs.  P.  and  our  babe  would  have  been  much  ex- 
posed, had  not  the  steward  of  Sir  John  McNeill  happened  to  be  at 
the  village,  on  his  way  to  meet  the  ambassador,  with  two  tents,  one 
of  which  he  kindly  vacated  for  us  and  furnished  us  with  comforta- 
ble provisions. 

July  11.  Sabbath.  We  remained  at  Zoraba.  I  read  and  re- 
marked on  the  fifteenth  chapter  of  Luke,  taking  occasion  to  speak 
to  our  travelling  company,  in  connexion  with  the  case  of  the  prodi- 
gal son,  of  the  dangers  incident  to  persons  who  leave  their  homes 
and  travel  to  other  countries.  Toward  midnight,  the  three  horses, 
belonging  to  Mrs.  P.,  the  bishop  and  myself,  which  were  tied  at  the 
door  of  our  tent,  took  fright,  broke  loose  and  in  an  instant  galloped 
away.  Our  travelling  companions  were  sound  asleep  and  before 
they  could  be  roused,  the  horses  had  fairly  escaped.  The  darkness 
prevented  successful  pursuit,  though  the  bishop  and  several  other 
Nestorians,  who  were  on  their  way  to  Constantinople,  were  out  un- 
til morning.  After  day-break,  July  12,  the  tracks  of  the  horses 
were  discovered  by  Mar  Yohannan,  who,  accustomed  to  pursue 
cattle  stolen  from  his  village  by  the  Koords,  by  means  of  their  foot- 
steps, so  skilfully  put  in  practice  his  experience,  that,  after  travel- 
ling about  thirty  miles,  through  narrow  ravines,  up  steep  pitches, 
across  the  plain  and  then  back  again,  until  almost  sunset,  we  found 
two  of  the  horses.  The  best  one  had  been  taken  up  by  a  Persian 
soldier  and  rode  off  to  a  distant  summer  retreat  on  the  mountains ; 
but  this  also,  on  farther  pursuit,  we  obtained. 

Juli/  13.  We  left  Sokhnanava,  the  pleasant  district  in  which  we 
had  now  spent  three  nights  and  two  days.  We  regretted  our  hin- 
drance the  less,  as  we  wished  to  go  in  company  with  a  caravan, 
which  had  now  only  just  come  up  with  us, — the  road  from  this  point 
onward,  for  about  two  hundred  miles,  being  regarded  as  very  unsafe 
at  that  time.  A  village  near  Zoraba  had  been  robbed  by  the  Koords, 
a  few  days  before,  and  seven  men  killed  in  the  encounter.  Our 
course  was  northward ;  and  after  passing  over  a  few  miles  of  rough 
road,  crossing  Akh  Chai,  (white  river,)  a  moderate  stream,  we  en- 
tered the  small  district  of  Tereeat^  The  caravan  which  we  wished 
to  join,  consisting  of  two  hundred  horses,  passed  the  last  night  in 
this  district,  near  Akh  Booldkh,  (white  spring,)  and  two  of  its  horses 
were  stolen.  Crossing  the  valley  of  Tereeat,  we  ascended  a  high 
mountain,  by  a  long  and  gradual  pass.  The  glens  and  declivities 
were  beautifully  clothed  with  a  heavy  growth  of  grass,  which  was 
waving  in  the  breeze  in  wild  luxuriance.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
neighboring  valleys  fear  to  risk  their  flocks  and  herds  so  far  from 
home,  and  the  nomade  Koords  had  not  yet  passed  along  there,  the 
present  season.  At  the  top  of  this  mountain,  we  had  a  fair  view  of 
Mt.  Ararat,  except  that  its  upper  part  was  partially  covered  with 


GRAZING  REGION  SIGHT  OF  THE  KOORDS. 


469 


clouds.  The  sacred  mountain  is  visible  from  some  points,  even  in 
the  vicinity  of  Oroomiah,  a  distance  of  nearly  two  hundred  miles. 
We  next  passed  down,  still  in  a  northerly  direction,  by  a  steep  rocky 
way  and  came  upon  another  table-land,  which,  like  those  preceding, 
gradually  widened  into  a  fertile,  inhabited  valley.  The  name  of 
this  district  is  Childeran.  Its  largest  village,  Kara-i-na,  (black 
fountain,)  near  which  we  stopped,  is  about  thirty  miles  distant  from 
Zoraba. 

Jul^/  14.    Six  miles  from  our  stopping-place,  we  entered  a  rugged 
ravine,  and  followed  up  the  bank  of  the  small  river,  C/iddderkia, 
which,  coming  down  from  the  mountains  above,  crosses  the  north- 
eastern corner  of  this  district,  and  conveys  away  its  waters,  by  a 
tortoise  course,  to  the  river  Arras.    We  then  crossed  successive 
hills,  and  wound  our  way  upward,  until  we  found  ourselves  at  the 
top  of  another  lofty  ridge,  that  looks  away  to  the  north  into  a  fine 
grassy  valley,  surrounded,  like  the  preceding  ones,  by  mountain 
ranges.    On  the  northern  side  of  this  valley,  is  an  arm  of  the  great 
mountain  chain  that  had  all  along  bounded  our  vvestern  horizon, 
which  sweeps  around  toward  the  east  and  forms  the  boundary,  on 
this  route,  between  Turkey  and  Persia.    The  name  of  this  district 
is  Avdjilc.    All  this  lofty  region  of  about  a  hundred  miles,  which 
we  passed  after  leaving  the  parched  and  dusty  plains  of  Persia  pro- 
per and  before  entering  the  Turkish  territory,  is  excellent — nay, 
sicblime,  pasture  ground,  and  contributes  much  to  furnish  the  my- 
riads of  flocks  and  herds  that  are  driven  annually  to  the  distant 
markets  of  Constantinople  and  Smyrna.    While  crossing  the  valley 
of  Avajik,  we  observed  a  party  of  Jellalee  Koords,  passing  along 
under  the  hills  at  some  distance;  and  the  bare  sight  of  them,  sent 
terror  into  the  bosoms  of  our  Persian  companions,  who,  though  they 
had  all  along  been  despising  and  cursing  the  Koords,  quailed  in- 
stantly at  the  appearance  of  not  half  their  own  number.    We  found 
excellent  milk  at  the  village  where  we  stopped,  but  such  was  the 
scarcity  of  wheat  in  the  region,  that  only  one  family  had  flour  to 
make  bread.    A  few  others  had  rice.    The  herd  of  cattle  which 
the  villagers  drove  home  at  evening  was  very  fine.    The  breed,  we 
were  told,  had  been  broucrht  from  Erivan.    The  water  of  this  dis- 
trict  is  about  the  purest  I  ever  drank  and  the  climate  is  very  healthy. 
Mrs.  P.  felt  quite  sensibly  the  beneficial  eflfects  of  the  clear  cool  air. 
Thus  does  a  kind  Providence  distribute  its  gifts.    The  fertile  vale 
of  Oroomiah,  overflowing  with  abundance  of  e^ery  kind,  has  its 
sickly  climate;  while  the  cold  rugged  hills  of  this  uninviting  region, 
affording  no  bread  even,  at  this  time,  to  its  hungry  inhabitants, 
still  deck  their  faces  with  the  bloom  and  vigor  of  health. 

July  15.  As  we  were  now  near  the  frontier,  where  the  greatest 
danger  was  to  be  apprehended,  we  lingered  a  day  for  the  arrival  of 
our  caravan  which  had  fallen  in  the  rear.  Mt.  Ararat  peered  sub- 
limely behind  the  high  boundary  range.  Our  Nestorian  companions 
were  so  much  awed  by  it,  that  they  proposed  to  fast  while  in  sight 


470 


CARAVAN  PRIEST  KAZI-GOEL. 


of  the  "  holy  mountain."  They  no  longer  qaestioned  its  having  been 
the  resting  place  of  the  ark,  though  the  ancient  Syriac  commenta- 
ries and  common  Nestorian  belief  award  that  honor  to  JucJah  Ddgh* 
a  mountain  which,  the  Nestorians  say,  is  situated  somewhere  to  the 
south-west  of  Oroomiah,  among  the  ranges  of  Koordistan. 

A  caravan  of  770  horses  passed  our  tent,  to-day,  on  its  way  to  Ta- 
breez,  laden  principally  with  European  goods.  I  stood  at  our  tent 
door  and  gazed  with  ineffable  satisfaction  on  this  mammoth  caravan, 
as  it  moved  majestically  along,  moralizing  on  the  bearing  of  com- 
merce, in  advancing  the  spread  of  the  gospel,  when  suddenly  there 
came  round  the  hill  above  us  and  right  upon  us,  a  person  in  Euro- 
pean costume,  frequently  crossing  and  re-crossing  the  path,  as  if  skulk- 
ing among  the  loads.  "  An  Englishman  !"  exclaimed  the  delighted 
bishop  ;  but  a  second  look  led  us  both  simultaneously  to  sigh  out, 
"  no;  it  is  a  French  priest,  on  his  way  to  Persia  !"  And  we  instinc- 
tively stepped  back  into  the  tent.  The  French  Catholics,  though 
coming  in  like  a  flood,  find  it  more  difficult  to  carry  all  before  them 
in  Persia  than  they  at  first  seemed  to  anticipate.  The  day  that  we 
left  Oroomiah,  we  received  intelligence  of  an  affair  at  Isfahan,  which 
is  likely  to  check  M.  B's  progress  in  that  city.  He  had  commenced 
making  converts  among  the  Armenians,  vi  ct  armis,  marching  even 
to  the  convent  with  an  armed  posse  and  encountering  the  Patriarch 
and  monks  in  their  head-quarters.  The  Armenians  being  the  more 
numerous,  drove  him  from  their  borders.  M.  B.  appealed  to  the 
Russian  ambassador ;  and  His  Excellency  applied  to  the  king.  His 
majesty  ordered  the  contending  parties  to  appear  before  him  ;  but 
the  Armenians,  in  the  meantime.jinforming  him  of  the  merits  of  the 
case,  the  king  very  properly  decided  that,  as  it  was  a  religious  quar- 
rel, he  would  take  no  notice  of  it. 

July  16.  The  expected  caravan  had  not  arrived;  and  ascertain- 
ing that  it  might  linger  some  time  for  accessions  from  Tabreez,  and 
being  short  of  provisions  with  a  famine  before  us,  I  determined  to 
proceed,  taking  a  small  guard  across  the  frontier.  My  muleteer 
urged  me  so  strongly  and  pathetically  still  to  linger,  accompanying 
his  entreaties  with  tears  and  frightful  gesticulations — drawing  his 
hand  across  his  throat  to  express  his  ap>prehension  of  losing  his  head, 
that  I  was  obliged  to  use  a  decided  tone  before  he  would  go  and  drive 
up  his  horses.  We  took  five  armed  horsemen  from  Avaj'ik,  the  village 
in  which  the  Khan  of  the  district  resides.  We  passed  up  the  boun- 
dary ridge  and  entered  Kdzi-goel,  (goose-pond,)  the  immense  mea- 
dow, in  crossing  which  the  danger  is  always  considered  to  be  great- 
er than  at  any  other  spot  on  the  route.  We  had  not  advanced  far 
before  we  discovered  a  large  party  encamped  on  the  grass,  whom  we 
at  first  supposed  of  course  to  be  foes ;  on  proceeding  nearer  to  them, 


*  I  have  often  been  amused,  in  the  East,  to  find  myself  unexpectedly  intro- 
duced to  old  acquaintances  in  fanailiar  names.  Beltir  Tag  (Billour  Ddgh, 
crystal  Tnoimtnin,)  is  such  a  name,  the  meaning  of  which — or  that  it  had  any 
meaning,— I  never  tind€rstood,  tin'r  learned  the  Turkish  kngnage. 


MERCHANTS  HORSES  PLAIN  Or  ARARAT.  471 


we  ascertained  that  they  were  the  Pasha  of  Bayazeed,  and  a  regi- 
ment of  troops,  who  had  come  out  to  the  line,  a  day  or  two  before, 
and  driven  the  marauding  Koords  from  the  region. 

In  our  company,  were  five  Persian  merchants,  from  Salmas,  on 
their  way  to  Erzroom  and  Constantinople.  Each  had  a  single  horse, 
which  he  rode,  carrying  also  upon  the  same  animal  his  stock  of  mer- 
chandize, consisting  mainly  of  Kerman  shawls,  closely  packed  in 
immense  carpet  saddle-bags  ;  and  in  addition,  a  month's  stock  of 
provisions  for  the  way,  consisting  of  bread,  baked  in  thin  cakes, 
which,  on  becoming  dry,  crumble  into  fine  scales,  and  yogoord,  tied 
up  in  a  small  cloth-bag,  and  hung  dangling  at  the  horse's  side.  At 
night,  these  merchants  slept  upon  the  ground  in  the  open  air.  Their 
strong,  heavily  laden  horses  were  the  ydbee,  drudge,  or  common 
caravan  beasts  ;  not  the  small,  beautiful  Arab,  nor  the  noble,  majes- 
tic and,  scarcely  less  fleet,  Turcoman, — the  only  kinds  which  Per- 
sians of  high  rank  will  deign  to  mount,  and  to  which  they  appropri- 
ate the  dignified  title  of  at,  horse,  and  ndjib,  noble.  In  relation  to 
gait,  the  Persians  prefer  pacers,  for  the  plain  reason,  that  they  like 
the  easy  motion,  under  the  saddle, — their  only  method  of  travelling, 
except  occasionally — rarely,  unless  in  feeble  health — in  the  takt-ra- 
wan,  (walking-seat,)  which  resembles  a  close  palanquin,  or  a  sedan- 
chair,  but  is  carried  like  a  litter,  by  mules  instead  of  men.  White 
and  grey  horses  are  the  favorites  with  the  Persians,  in  point  of  color. 
Black  ones,  they  say,  are  possessed  of  the  Devil ;  and  not  without 
some  reason ;  for  it  is  a  fact,  recognized  also  by  Europeans  in  Per- 
sia, that  black  horses  there  have  in  general,  singularly  vicious,  or  as 
they  say,  '  wicked,'  dispositions. 

The  merchants  were,  as  this  class  of  Persians  usually  are,  cheer- 
ful, friendly  and  pleasant  companions,  sometimes  singing  a  peasant's 
love  ditty,  and  anon  reciting,  in  shrill  measured  tones,  from  their 
oracular  poets,  Hafiz,  Firdousi  and  Sadi,  with  which  many  of  them 
are  familiar. 

Crossing  the  ridge,  we  carae  down  upon  the  great  plain  on 
which  rests  the  base  of  Ararat.  We  had  intended  to  stop  at  Kiizzil- 
dizza,  for  the  niffht,  but  found  the  villacre  deserted,  its  inhabitants 
having  gone  to  the  mountains  to  pasture  their  flocks.  A  solitary 
old  Koord  was  wandering  about  there,  who  appeared  like  the  ghost 
of  hunger,  and  was  very  clamorous  in  his  application  for  bread. 
There  stands  Ararat,  upon  its  vast  pedestal,  in  solemn,  silent  ma- 
jesty, the  eternal  monument  of  the  flood.  The  valley  in  which  we 
were,  was  a  cradle  of  the  second  world,  perhaps  the  home  of  the 
patriarch;  but  its  present  inhabitants  are  wild  and  ruthless  savages  ; 
and  the  foot  of  the  mountain  is  associated  irl  the  minds  of  the  na- 
tives of  these  regions  as  the  lurking-place  of  the  Jellalees.  A  very 
few  degraded  Armenians  are  scattered  in  dilapidated  villages  on  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  plain,  who  are  trodden  down  by  the  wild  Koords  ; 
and  the  town  of  Bayazeed,  the  ruins  of  the  capital  of  the  mighty  Baja- 
zet,  containing  perhaps  from  one  to  two  thousand  inhabitants,  is  oo- 


472 


WESTERN  VIEW  PLAGUE  FAMINE. 


cupied  by  a  small  garrison  of  subject  Koords,  under  Beelul  Pasha, 
whose  office  it  is  to  protect  the  passing  travellers  and  caravans. 

We  proceeded,  intending  to  reach  Diadeen.  After  sunset,  ob- 
serving the  horses  of  a  caravan,  grazing  under  the  mountains,  about 
two  miles  south  of  our  road,  we  determined  to  join  them  and  pass 
the  night,  instead  of  driving  our  already  tired  animals  to  Diadeen. 
This  caravan  consisted  of  250  horses,  laden,  as  were  the  previous 
ones  we  had  met,  with  European  goods.  "Are  you  not  afraid  you 
will  drain  Europe?"  I  inquired  of  the  muleteers;  "Oh  no;  there 
is  a  caravan  of  500  horses  one  day  back  of  us,"  was  their  reply. 
We  had  delightful  views  of  Mt.  Ararat,  during  our  afternoon  ride, 
and  its  snowy  summit  now  glistened  under  the  last  brilliant  rays  of  the 
retiring  sun.  Apprehending  that  I  might  never  again  see  its  features, 
so  advantageously  illumined,  I  hastily  sketched  an  outline,  with  that 
kind  of  reverential  feeling  which  one  experiences  when  about  to  take 
leave  of  a  venerated  acquaintance;  and  as  we  sometimes  find  satis- 
faction in  exhibiting  the  portraits  of  absent  friends,  T  may  venture 
here  to  introduce  to  the  reader  the  western,  or  Turkish  side  of  Ara- 
rat, with  the  common  qualification,  however,  that  the  portrait  can- 
not do  justice  to  the  original,  and  was  intended  merely  for  private 
gratification. 

July  17.  The  muleteers  from  the  west  informed  us,  that  the 
plague  is  raging  in  nearly  all  the  villages  on  our  way  to  Erzroom. 
We  could  do  no  more,  nor  less,  than  put  ourselves  on  strict  allow- 
ance, on  the  small  stock  of  provisions  which  we  had  with  us,  deem- 
ing it  not  prudent  to  venture  into  these  infected  villages.  The 
Murdd-chai,  or  eastern  branch  of  the  Euphrates,  passes  down  from 
the  southern  mountains  near  the  town  of  Diadeen.  How  interest- 
ing is  this  region!  I  could  almost  live  here  contented,  even  amid 
its  melancholy  physical  and  moral  desolations  !  Soon  after  we  en- 
camped on  the  bank  of  the  Euphrates,  opposite  the  Armenian  con- 
vent of  Utch-kileesia,  an  old  Turk,  who  was  travelling  with  his 
family,  came  up  with  us.  They  too  feared  the  plague  and  shunned 
the  villages,  and  they  proposed  to  join  our  party.  They  drove  with 
them  a  few  goats,  from  which  they  engaged  to  supply  us  daily  with 
milk,  until  we  shall  reach  their  home,  which  is  within  one  day's 
journey  of  Erzroom.  Thus  unexpectedly  did  the  Lord  provide  for 
us,  while  encompassed  by  famine,  pestilence  and  savages  in  the 
wilderness.  "  Thou  preparest  a  table  for  me.,  in  the  midst  of  mine 
enemies."  It  was  affecting,  •  all  the  way  through  this  region,  to 
hear  the  hungry  natives  tell  how  long  it  had  been,  that  they  had  not 
seen  a  piece  of  bread.  Grass  and  herbs,  boiled  and  mixed  with 
yogoord,  was  their  only  food.  Their  famine-stricken  state,  doubt- 
less, did  much  to  prepare  the  way  for  the  prevalence  of  the  plague. 

July  18.  We  rode  to  Kara-kilr.csid,  a  distance  of  thirty-five 
miles,  following  the  Euphrates  all  the  way,  in  the  magnificent  val- 
ley, which  is  almost  a  hundred  miles  long,  and  in  the  western  part, 
at  least  twenty  miles  broad.    This  primitive  country  is  too  fair  and 


ALAZGERD  COLONY. 


473 


fertile  to  lie  neglected;  but  a  decayed  and  half  desolate  village  of 
poor  Armenians  and  stationary  Koords,  at  intervals  of  six  or  ten 
miles,  are  all  the  human  habitations  that  appear.  About  midway 
between  the  convent  and  Kara-kileesia,  is  an  old  stone  bridge,  finely 
built,  now  somewhat  dilapidated,  but  obviously  the  work  of  other 
men  and  other  days.  The  Euphrates  has  left  it  and  cut  for  itself  a 
new  channel. 

Julx/  19.  We  rode  to  Moollah  Soieiman,  about  the  same  distance 
as  yesterday.  A  little  west  of  Kara-kileesia,  the  Euphrates  changes 
its  course,  and  passes  by  a  ravine  through  the  soutliern  ridge  of 
mountains,  in  the  direction  of  Moosh,  and  thence  onward  to  Diar- 
beker.  Considerable  streams  enter  it  on  this  stage  from  the  north, 
and  one  from  the  western  end  of  the  valley.  The  principal  village, 
in  this  district,  (Alazgerd,)  is  Toprak-kiilaah,  (earth-castle,)  situa- 
ted at  the  foot  of  the  Ararat  ridge,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  plain. 
It  has  a  strong  fort  on  a  lofty  overlooking  hill.  It  was  formerly  a 
large  Armenian  town,  but  most  of  its  inhabitants  went  away  with 
the  Russians. 

Moollah  Soieiman,  which  I  had  on  former  journeys  made  my  stop- 
ping-place, is  situated  at  the  nnrth-west  corner  of  the  plain  of  Alaz- 
gerd. The  inhabitants  were  digging  graves  in  one  place,  and  per- 
sons sick  of  the  plague  lay  exposed  here  and  there,  with  relatives 
weeping  near  them,  all  which  gave  us  a  melancholy  impression  and 
some  apprehension.  We  passed  by  the  village  and  pitched  our  tent 
in  a  ravine,  near  a  small  brook,  on  the  side  of  the  mountain.  The 
vast  plain  lay  stretched  out  beautifully  before  us,  but  in  silent  deso- 
lation, and  we  could  not  help  contrasting  its  present  condition  with 
that  of  a  century  ago,  when  it  was  enlivened  by  two  or  three  hun- 
dred villages.  Russian  encroachment,  Turkish  misrule  and  Koord- 
ish  violence,  have  driven  away  the  suffering  Armenians,  and  their 
fair  country  now  lies  thus  in  mournful  and  naked  solitude.  In  con- 
versation with  Mr.  Brant,  the  British  consul  at  Erzroom,  he  sucr- 
gested  to  me  the  idea,  that  Alazgerd,  in  its  present  depopulated 
state,  would  be  an  excellent  region  for  a  European  colony.  I  urged 
him  to  pursue  the  thought.  How  much  might  be  contributed  to 
the  advancement  of  the  civilization  and  christianization  of  Asia,  by 
the  existence  of  an  enlightened,  Protestant  christian  community,  on  a 
distant  plain  of  Armenia  !  It  need  not,  and  should  not,  be  a  mission- 
ary colony  in  form  nor  in  fact ;  but  it  could  hardly  help  being  such 
in  its  general  effects.  Mr.  Brant  stated  that  Mr.  Hanson,  a  wealthy, 
enterprising  English  merchant  of  Constantinople,  had  purchased  a 
tract  of  12,000  acres  on  the  Asiatic  shore  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora, 
which  he  is  intending  to  colonize  from  England.  And  a  similar 
experiment,  in  the  eastern  part  of  Turkey,  though  more  difficult, 
seems  at  least  practicable,  and  in  its  moral  bearings,  far  more  ne- 
cessary and  desirable. 

July  20.  We  first  crossed  a  high  ridge  which  was  waving  un- 
der a  growth  of  grass,  so  heavy  as  to  attract  the  mowers  quite  to  the 

60' 


474 


CROSSING  A  SUMMIT  ASCENT  OF  A  MOUNTAIN. 


summit.    On  this  mountain,  Abbas  Meerza  quartered  his  troops 
after  having  put  to  flight  the  Turkish  army  near  Toprak-kiilaah  in 
the  war  about  fifteen  years  ago.    He  pursued  the  Turks  farther 
still  toward  Erzroom,  until  the  Persian  army  was  suddenly  prostra- 
ted, by  a  general  attack  of  cholera.    Thousands  died  on  the  spot ; 
and  the  surviving  remnant  fled  in  panic  and  wild  disorder  back  to 
their  native  country.    Koosy  Dagh,  beardless  mountain,  on  the 
north  of  this  grassy  ridge,  is  a  lofty,  naked  peak,  on  the  top  of  the 
Ararat  range,  peermg  far  above  all  other  summits,  except  the  sacred 
mountain  itself.    About  eight  miles  brought  us  across  the  spur  of 
the  general  range,  descending  which,  we  came  upon  the  shorter  of 
the  two  main  roads  to  Erzroom.    The  sides  of  the  mountains  were 
richly  clothed  with  grass  and  flowers,  quite  up  to  their  summits. 
The  sun  was  uncomfortably  warm,  when  we  began  to  ascend  the 
mountain,  but  we  were  erelong  shivering  with  cold ;  and  a  rushing 
wind  sucked  up  a  ravine  on  the  other  side,  ever  the  pass,  which 
was  a  little  lower  than  the  general  range,  as  we  approached  the  sum- 
mit, almost  with  the  fury  of  a  hurricane.    From  the  top  we  de- 
scended a  steep  pitch,  far  enough  to  be  shielded  from  the  cold  and 
the  violence  of  the  wind,  and  there  encamped  to  dine.    While  our 
party  were  at  rest,  I  made  my  way  up  a  neighboring  peak,  that 
seemed,  when  thus  near,  almost  as  high  as  Koosy  mountain.  I 
found  the  ascent  much  more  long,  steep  and  diflicult,  than  I  had  an- 
ticipated, and  was  quite  exhausted,  when  I  reached  the  top ;  but 
from  that  lofty  position,  I  enjoyed  a  grand  view  of  a  vast  and  sublime 
assemblage  of  mountains,  for  nearly  a  hundred  miles,  along  the 
Ararat  range,  and  the  parallel  ranges,  with  the  ralley  of  the  eastern 
Euphrates  on  one  side,  and  the  hardly  less  beautiful  province  of 
Pasin  on  the  other.    In  descending  by  a  shorter  and  steeper  course 
than  the  one  by  which  I  went  up,  I  once  or  twice  came  very  near 
being  dashed  down  precipices,  in  following  the  course  of  a  rill,  and 
bounding  from  side  to  side  of  the  narrow  ravine.    I  collected  a  few 
stones  on  the  pinnacle,  and  gathered  a  large  number  of  plants  and 
flowers  high  up  the  sides,  on  a  level  with  a  bank  of  snow,  which  I 
crossed  on  my  way  down. 

After  dinner,  we  proceeded  by  a  very  gradual  descent,  down  a 
pleasant  valley.  A  lively  stream,  as  was  the  case  also  on  the  other 
side,  soon  murmured  into  being  and  cheered  us  by  its  music.  We 
had  almost  reached  the  foot,  having  travelled  nearly  forty  miles, 
without  seeing  a  village  or  a  human  habitation,  when  the  sun  dis- 
appeared ;  and  both  ourselves  and  our  horses  being  very  tired,  we 
encamped  for  the  night. 

July  21.  Early  in  the  morning,  the  alarm  was  given,  that  Mrs. 
Perkins's  horse,  which  had  been  tied  near  our  tent  door,  was  gone ! 
And  on  farther  search,  we  discovered  that  the  bishop's  large  carpei 
bag,  containing  all  his  clothing  except  what  he  happened  to  have 
on  at  night,  with  his  prayer-book — and  indeed  his  little  all,  except 
his  money  which  he  had  fortunately  committed  to  me — besides 


THEFT  SUBLIME  PASS  VILLAGE  OF  TURF. 


475 


many  single  articles  belonging  to  others  of  the  company,  had  also 
disappeared.  Inquiry  soon  revealed  the  fact,  that  two  of  our  cona- 
panious  were  not  to  be  found,  which  of  course  satisfied  us  at  once 
who  were  the  thieves.  They  were  transient  Persian  travellers,  who 
had  joined  the  company  to  pass  through  the  Koordish  region,  pro- 
fessedly for  mutual  security,  but  in  reality,  doubtless,  for  this  very 
purpose.  We  had  all,  that  day,  become  very  tired;  and  the  rogues 
took  advantage  of  that  circumstance,  as  well  as  of  our  remote,  soli- 
tary situation.  Late  in  the  evening,  they  proposed  to  relieve  the 
Neslorian  who  was  watching  the  tent,  to  which  he  unwittingly 
agreed  ;  and  when  the  whole  party,  with  the  exception  of  themselves, 
were  in  profound  slumber,  they  committed  the  theft  and  absconded. 
Mrs.  P.'s  horse  was  the  best  traveller  in  the  company,  unless  it  were 
one  of  their  own.  No  village  was  near  and  we  had  no  prospect  of 
successful  pursuit,  particularly  as  they  were  athletic  fellows  and  well 
armed.  I  therefore  concluded  that  we  would  not  add  trouble,  ex- 
pense, and  perhaps  exposure,  to  our  loss,  and  we  put  up  our  effects 
and  proceeded.  It  was  a  severe  visitation  to  the  bishop,  who  was 
left  almost  naked ;  but  he  met  his  misfortune,  alike  with  the  resig- 
nfition  of  a  Christian,  and  the  good  sense  of  a  man,  well  assured 
that  it  avails  little  to  bemoan  lost  articles,  after  they  are  irrecovera- 
bly gone. 

A  mile  from  our  stopping-place  brought  us  to  Dar  Boghos,  nar- 
row throat,  which  is  one  of  the  most  striking  natural  objects  that  I 
have  seen  in  all  my  travels.  On  the  sides  of  a  narrow  pass — perhaps 
sixty  feet  wide — through  which  the  large  brook  we  had  followed 
and  the  road  unitedly  run,  rise,  perpendicularly,  two  rocky  pillars, 
to  the  bold  height  of  more  than  two  hundred  feet.  This  sublime 
gate-way  of  nature  ushered  us  suddenly  into  the  delightful  valley  of 
Pasin,  and  hid  from  our  view,  at  the  same  moment,  the  grassy  ridges 
and  glens,  the  rugged  peaks  and  precipices,  and  the  craggy  cliffs  of 
the  grand  Ararat  range.  And  as  we  crossed  the  hills  and  dales, 
enlivened  by  waving  fields,  and  the  industrious  husbandmen,  the 
feeling  quickly  rose,  that  we  had  now  left  Koordistan.  We  pro- 
ceeded about  twenty-five  miles  and  stopped  for  the  night  near  Bal- 
lou-koy. 

July  22.  We  kept  near  the  southern  side  of  the  plain  of  Has- 
san-kulaah,  and  encamped  not  far  from  the  large,  fine  village  of 
Alvaree.  Near  Hassan-kulaah  rivet,  we  passed  a  large  village, 
built  wholly  of  swards,  cut  in  squares,  a  foot  and  a  half  in  size, 
from  the  immense  green  meadows  that  stretch  along  the  stream. 
The  vast  plain,  over  which  we  had  been  travelling,  both  yesterday 
and  to-day,  gleaming  .with  almost  countless  fields  of  wheat,  now 
nearly  ripe,  presented  a  cheering  and  ample  pledge,  that  \\\&  famine, 
in  this  province,  would  soon  be  at  an  end. 

During  the  last  half  of  our  ride,  the  heat  of  the  sun  was  almost 
overpowering,  and  when  we  stopped,  I  found  myself  burning  with  a 


476  ILLNESS  A  PALACE  MISSIONARY  ASPECT. 


high  fever  and  much  reduced  by  an  attack  of  dysentery,  induced  by 
my  exertion  in  ascending  the  high  mountain  two  days  before.  I 
was  very  sick  in  the  afternoon  and  evening,  and  feared  that  I  should 
be  unable  to  ride  farther,  as  every  step  of  my  horse  subjected  me 
to  severe  pain  and  aggravated  my  disease.  After  resting  until 
midnight,  however,  I  was  much  relieved ;  I  therefore  had  a  mat- 
rass spread  upon  one  of  our  loaded  horses,  on  which  I  was  able  to 
secure  a  half  reclining  posture,  and  we  proceeded,  July  23,  about 
1  o'clock  in  the  morning.  We  started  at  that  early  hour,  that  we 
might  avoid  the  intense  heat  of  the  sun ;  and  we  were  of  course 
anxious  not  to  lose  a  day,  in  our  penury  of  provisions,  within  a 
single  stage  of  Erzroom.  It  was  now  between  seven  and  eight 
years  since  Mrs.  P.  and  myself  had  first  passed  through  Erzroora, 
on  our  untried  way  to  Persia;  and  the  painful  incidents  of  that  try- 
ing journey  were  brought  tenderly  to  mind,  as  we  approached  and 
entered  the  city.  We  reached  the  dwelling  of  our  missionary 
friends,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jackson,  about  8  o'clock  in  the  mornincr. 
The  first  item  of  intelligence,  after  our  mutual  salutation,  was,  "  The 
plague  is  here  and  we  are  in  quarantine."  We  were,  however,  re- 
ceived with  all  cordiality,  notwithsta'hding  the  quarantine.  The 
resting  place  was  to  us  like  a  green  spot  in  a  wide  desert,  and  our 
visit  could  hardly  be  less  welcome  to  them,  alone  as  they  had  long 
been,  in  that  remote,  benighted  land. 

July  24,.  I  called  on  iVIr.  Brant,  the  English  consul.  Since  I 
was  last  here,  he  had  built  a  fine  spacious  mansion,  in  European 
style.  My  feeling,  on  entering  it,  was,  that  I  was  suddenly  trans- 
ported from  the  dreary  desolations  of  Eastern  Turkey,  to  the  heart 
of  Old  England.  There  is  no  such  residence  east  of  Constantino- 
ple,— at  least,  until  we  reach  the  English  palace  at  Tehran. 

The  Armenians  are  now  coming  into  Erzroom,  from  various 
parts  of  Turkey.  They  number  at  present  about  one  thousand 
families,  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  whom  are  Catholics.  The  town 
is  still  rapidly  increasing  in  trade,  as  might  be  inferred  from  the 
number  of  caravans,  (and  I  have  hy  no  means  mentioned  all,)  that 
passed  us  on  their  way  to  Persia ;  and  it  is  destined  to  be  a  yet 
more  important  centre  of  moral  influence.  Our  missionary,  sta- 
tioned there,  has,  as  yet,  found  it  impracticable  to  gain  much  access, 
euen  to  the  nominal  Christians.  The  Papal  intrigues  practised  on 
them,  in  efforts  to  draw  away  their  people,  contribute  much  to  ob- 
struct the  Protestant  missionary,  here  as  elsewhere,  in  whom  also 
they  naturally  suspect  a  secret  foe.  Their  own  superstitious  sys- 
tem, loo,  recoils  from  the  approach  of  light.  Like  other  interior 
towns  of  Turkey,  Erzroom  is  hard  missionary  soil,  which  must  be 
dug  up  as  with  a  pick-axe,  not  by  violent  blows,  but  silent,  patient 
toil,  accompanied  by  faith,  love  and  prayer.  General  obstacles  will 
gradually  yield  to  the  advancing  tide  of  civilization.  The  mission- 
ary will,  by  degrees,  acquire  the  confidence  of,  the  people,  and  reach 


AN  INFANT  TRAVELLEK. 


477 


their  ears  and  hearts  with  his  message.  The  seeds  of  truth  silently, 
but  effectually,  sown,  will  spring  up  and  bear  fruit.  Native  con- 
verts will  at  length  run  to  and  fro,  and  knowledge  be  increased,  and 
light  will  be  diffused  from  those  heights,  as  from  a  radiant  point, 
from  which  it  will  shine  forth  to  the  shores  of  the  Euxine,  to  Asia  Mi- 
nor, Mesopotamia  and  the  confines  of  Persia,  mingling  its  rays  with 
those  sent  forth  from  the  other  mission  stations  in  all  those  regions, 
and  Armenia  again  become  a  christian  land. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

RETURN,  CONTINUED. 

There  was  a  humble  individual  in  our  travelling  company, 
whom  I  have  not  yet  formally  introduced,  and  to  whom,  as  well  as 
to  the  reader,  1  perhaps  owe  an  apology  for  the  omission.  Little 
Judith,  our  only  surviving  child,  was  eleven  months  old  when  we 
left  Oroomiah.  She  rode  in  a  pannier,  or  deep  basket,  suspended 
by  the  side  of  a  horse  and  balanced  by  one  of  a  similar  form  and  di- 
mensions on  the  opposite  side.  In  the  latter,  we  carried  a  few  light 
articles,  which  we  needed  during  our  ride  and  which  were  thus  read- 
ily accessible.  No  additional  horae  was  required  for  the  infant,  as 
our  servant  rode  upon  the  same,  to  keep  the  baskets  adjusted  to  the 
pack-saddle.  The  one  in  which  the  child  rode,  was  partially  lined 
with  a  wool-cushion,  and  had  a  seat  of  the  same  fixed  in  the  bottom, 
with  a  stick  across  in  front,  to  confine  her  in  her  place,  while  it  al- 
lowed her  to  recline  sufficiently  to  sleep.  She  sometimes  remon- 
strated against  being  taken  from  her  bed,  early  in  the  morning,  and 
shut  up  in  her  moving  prison ;  but  she  would  soon  become  quiet 
and  usually  fall  asleep,  as  we  moved  on,  being  lulled  by  the  gentle 
motion  of  the  horse  and  the  music  of  the  bells  ;  or,  if  these  did  not 
suffice,  by  the  shrill  lullaby  of  the  kind  Nestorian  servant.  In  a 
few  instances,  the  horse  fell,  with  his  precious  charge  half  under 
him;  but  providentiaJly  the  child  was  unharmed  and  unfrightened, 
and  with  the  rest  of  us,  safely  survived  the  journey,  though  perform- 
ed amid  the  famine,  pestilence  and  sword. 

While  we  were  at  Erzroom,  our  missionary  friends  there  were 
cheered  by  the  arrival  of  Rev.  Josiah  Peabody  and  his  wife,  who 
were  to  be  their  associates.  They  had  performed  the  rough  jour- 
ney from  Trebizond  with  comparative  ease,  and  would  have  suffer- 


478 


LARGE  BIRDS  FLOWERS  BKES. 


ed  still  less  inconvenience,  had  they  been  provided  with  a  fent. 
We  felt  a  peculiar  satisfaction  in  leaving  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jackson  no 
longer  alone.  Our  Lord  sent  forth  his  disciples  two  and  two  among 
their  own  countrymen,  and  he  would  much  more  have  done  so,  had 
they  gone  to  foreign  nations.  It  was  July  30th,  after  a  week's  stay, 
that  we  left  Erzroom.  We  rode  three  hours  down  a  gentle  plain, 
to  the  village  of  Eelijah,  and  pitched  our  tent  on  the  bank  of  a  small 
stream,  which  is  crossed  by  an  ancient  stone  bridge. 

Jidi/  31.  About  a  mile  west  of  Eelijah,  we  crossed  the  Kara  Soo, 
— the  western  branch  of  the  Euphrates.  On  its  banks,  some  dis- 
tance from  us,  was  avast  flock  of  white  birds,  much  larger  than  the 
goose  or  turkey.  The  bishop  stated  that  these  birds  have  a  reser- 
voir attached  to  the  throat,  large  enough  to  hold  some  half-pints  of 
water.  He  also  said  that  they  frequent  the  lake  of  Oroomiah.  Near 
the  first  ridge  of  mountains  from  Erzroom,  is  the  village  of  Mehman- 
soor,  where  we  had  intended  to  spend  the  Sabbath;  but  a  rumor 
that  the  plague  had  entered  it,  led  us  to  cross  the  Jofty  mountain 
range, — a  barrier  which  we  hoped  the  pestilence  had  not  yet  sur- 
mounted. Our  ride  across  it  was  delightful,  being  rendered  partic- 
ularly so,  by  the  endless  variety  of  brilliant  flowers,  now  in  full  blos- 
som. Mrs.  Peabody  had  counted  135  different  kinds,  in  crossing 
this  mountain.  Our  descent  on  the  opposite  side,  was  steep  and  dif- 
ficult. Crossing  a  large  brook  at  its  foot,  we  immediately  commen- 
ced ascending  a  second  ridge,  and  after  riding  about  a  mile,  reach- 
ed the  village  of  Hoshapana,  which  is  a  little  retired  from  the  main 
road,  and  encamped  there  for  the  Sabbath.  It  is  a  large  Muham- 
niedan  village,  about  thirty  miles  from  Erzroom.  The  inhabitants 
keep  innumerable  bees,  that  feast  on  the  sweet  flowers  of  the  lofty 
surrounding  mountains. 

Aug.  1.  The  Sabbath.  For  our  Bible  exercise,  we  read  the  third 
chapter  of  John.  The  question  was  asked,  why  Nicoderaus  went  to 
Christ  by  night ;  which  was  answered  by  a  Nestorian  boy,  '  because 
he  feared  that  the  Jews  would  cast  him  out,  if  his  going  should  be 
known  to  them.'  Why,  I  inquired,  did  they  object  to  their  people 
going  to  Christ  to  be  taught  1  To  which  Mar  Yohannan  replied, 
'  for  the  same  reason  that  the  Armenian  ecclesiastics,  at  Erzroom, 
object  to  their  people  going  to  Mr.  Jackson  to  be  taught.'"  A  young 
Armenian,  Mr.  J's  teacher,  who  was  travelling  in  company  with  us, 
agreed  with  the  bishop  in  this  opinion.  I  dwelt  on  the  importance 
of  the  new  birth,  as  presented  in  that  chapter,  and  looking  to  Christ 
crucified, — "lifted  up,"  as  the  only  Saviour  ;  and  at  the  close,  sung 
the  hymn  commencing,  "  There  is  a  fountain  filled  with  blood," 
which  is  a  favorite  with  the  Nestorians  who  speak  English,  and  J 
translated  it  into  the  native  language  for  the  benefit  of  all  who  were 
present. 

Aug.  2.  We  rode  seven  hours  and  pitched  our  tent  on  the  bank 
of  the  river  Jorokh.    We  crossed  the  mountain  which  we  had  com- 


GREAT  ROCK  PILGRIMS  UMBRELLAS. 


479 


raenced  ascending  on  Saturday.  It  is  very  high  and  like  the  pre- 
ceding one,  was  now  smiling  and  redolent  with  a  rich  growth  of 
beautiful  flowers.  On  a  stream  on  the  western  side  of  this  mountain, 
is  a  huge  sheking  rock,  under  which  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Peabody  had 
encamped,  in  one  instance,  for  the  night.  It  is  one  of  those  grand 
shelters  from  the  sun  at  mid-day,  which  are  so  welcome  to  the  pil- 
grim, in  those  regions  destitute  of  trees,  and  naturally  reminded  us 
of  the  force  of  the  scripture  allusion  to  the  '  shadow  of  a  great  rock, 
in  a  weary  land.'  This  being  several  miles  from  any  village,  often 
in  summer,  furnishes  the  traveller  with  a  lodging  place  also  for  the 
night. 

In  the  course  of  our  ride,  two  travellers  fell  in  with  us,  who  an- 
nounced themselves  to  be  pilgrims,  on  their  way  to  Mecca,  and  sta- 
ted that  they  were  from  Kona.  (Kochin  1)  forty  days'  journey  beyond 
Bukhara  and  within  twelve  days  of  Chin,  (China).  How  much  toil, 
and  exposure  do  they  incur,  travelling  on  foot  a  distance  of  thou- 
sands of  miles,  over  inhospitable  regions,  to  secure  for  themselves  a 
place  in  their  fancied  paradise.  How  mighty  is  the  sway  of  super- 
stition, over  Asiatic  minds  !  As  an  offset,  however,  I  observed  also, 
to-day,  a  striking  instance  of  the  progress  of  innovation  among 
Asiatics.  When  we  went  to  Persia,  our  umbrellas  were  among  the 
greatest  curiosities  pertaining  to  us,  that  arrested  the  attention  of 
the  natives.  But  now,  scores  of  Turks  and  Persians  pass  us  on 
horseback,  shadowing  themselves  with  these  European  canopies,  and 
apparently  as  much  afraid  of  exposing  their  brown  faces  to  the  rays 
of  the  sun  as  a  Parisian  dandy. 

Aug.  3.  The  last  night  was  very  cold,  as  indeed  the  nights  of 
summer  always  are,  in  these  lofty  regions.  We  rode  down  the 
narrow  valley  of  the  Jorokh,  about  thirty  miles,  to  the  town  of  Bai- 
boot.  We  also  passed  three  considerable  tributaries,  entering  the 
Jorokh  from  the  south,  and  crossed  by  five  arched  stone-bridges. 
On  the  margin  of  one  these  tributaries  is  the  post-road  which  strikes 
the  Euphrates  at  Ash-kulaah  ;  and  a  little  west  of  it,  back  in  a  glen, 
is  Madden,  or  the  copper-mines.  I  rode  up  to  Madden,  and  was 
surprised  to  find  there  a  village  of  nearly  one  hundred  houses  of 
Greeks,  who  are  engaged  in  working  the  mines  for  government.  I 
am  not  aware  that  there  are  Greeks  east  of  this  mining  village. 
We  pitched  our  tent  for  the  night  on  the  beautiful  lawn  that  spreads 
itself  out  above  Baiboot,  almost  as  soft  and  smooth  as  a  Persian 
carpet. 

Aug.  4.  Six  or  eight  miles  from  Baiboot,  on  the  northern  route, 
are  three  ancient  Armenian  churches,  finely  built  of  stone,  situated 
within  a  short  distance  of  each  other.  We  took  a  more  southern 
route  and  stopped  to  rest  at  Balhoor,  about  twelve  miles  west  of  Bai- 
boot. This  is  the  village  where,  almost  six  years  ago,  I  met  Mrs. 
Grant,  with  her  husband  and  Mr.  Merrick,  on  their  way  to  Persia. 
How  many  tender  recollections  did  the  sight  of  it  call  up  !  One  of 
the  number  had  long  since  gone  to  her  rest  and  reward  !    I  tried  to 


4S0 


SODA-SPRING  GLENS  VIEW  OF  THE  SEA. 


find  the  stable,  in  which  the  pilgrim  party  were  encamped  for  the 
night  when  I  reached  them  ;  but  in  the  changes  of  time,  among  those 
rude  habitations,  it  had  disappeared.  While  we  were  taking  a  re- 
past, under  a  tree,  two  Greek  priests,  from  the  copper-mines,  on 
their  way  to  Gijmijsh-khana,  came  up  and  sat  with  us  in  the  shade. 
One  of  them  showed  me  his  prayer-book.  I  read  from  it,  and  they 
were  surprised  that  I  could  translate  the  Greek  into  Turkish,  at  least 
as  readily  as  themselves.  There  were  a  few  pictures  in  the  prayer- 
book,  and  Mar  Yohannan  took  occasion  to  rally  them  on  the  sin  of 
their  picture-worship.  They  attempted  to  palliate  their  case,  but 
evidently  wished  that  the  pictures  had  not  been  in  the  book. 

About  ten  miles  west  of  Balhoor,  among  the  mountains,  on  the 
middle  route,  we  passed  a  soda-spring,  which  boils  up  more  vehe- 
mently than  any  other  that  I  have  ever  seen.  There  are,  in^fact, 
two  fountains, — one  on  each  side  of  a  small  fresh-water  stream. 
That  on  the  west  side  is  three  feet  deep,  and  boils  up  so  vigorously 
as  to  arrest  the  attention  of  the  traveller,  from  the  road  which  is  far 
above.  These  springs,  being  on  the  margin  of  a  brook,  into  which 
they  discharge  their  waters,  are  prevented  from  depositing  tufa,  as 
in  the  case  of  others  which  I  have  mentioned.  We  encamped  for 
the  night,  not  far  from  the  village  of  Agasar,  which  is  fifteen  miles 
from  Balhoor. 

Aug.  5.  Our  course  was  first  west,  and  then  north-west.  We 
soon  entered  a  narrow  glen,  with  high  mountains  on  either  hand, 
and  only  room  enough  for  a  path  on  the  bank  of  a  stream  which  we 
followed,  and  often,  hardly  room  for  that.  Two  hours'  ride  brought 
us  to  the  village  of  Vazerna,  a  nice  hamlet,  lodged  among  the  cliffs  ; 
and  we  passed  several  smaller  ones,  similarly  situated.  All  the 
arable  soil  is  found  in  small  terraced  patches,  on  the  brink  of  the 
streams,  over  which  numerous  beautiful  stone  bridges  are  thrown, 
to  enable  the  caravans  to  thread  their  difficult  way.  Winding  our 
course  still  up  narrow  glens,  skirted  with  patches  of  grass  and 
grain — the  inheritance  and  hope  of  the  peasants — we  proceeded  two 
or  three  hours,  and  came  to  a  steep  lofty  mountain,  which  we  as- 
cended, and  two  or  three  others  still  above.  Our  way  then  lay 
along  the  top  of  a  commanding  ridge,  while  an  ocean  of  lower 
ridges,  with  their  peaks,  cones  and  abysses,  was  stretched  out  to  a 
vast  distance  on  either  hand.  Descending  a  little  on  one  side  of 
the  ridge  we  were  following,  we  halted  to  bait  our  horses,  on  a 
grassy  patch — a  smiling  oasis — near  a  small  spring.  And  mean- 
while, I  made  my  way  up  to  the  top  of  a  neighboring  peak,  from 
which  I  obtained  a  distant  view  of  the  Black  Sea,  far  away  and  far 
below,  enveloped  in  clouds.  How  gratefiil  was  the  sight,  after  our 
long  exile  in  the  interior  !  Perhaps  hardly  less  so,  than  to  Xeno- 
phon  and  his  Ten  Thousand,  when  they  caught  their  first  glimpse 
of  this  sea,  it  may  be,  from  this  same  summit!  We  proceeded  to 
the  north,  along  a  table-land,  on  which  were  drifts  of  snow,  and 
then  crossed  a  still  higher  ridge  from  which  our  whole  party  ob- 


TAVERNS  COTTAGES  SUBLIME  VIEWS.  481 


tained  a  view  of  the  sea.  Descending  in  a  western  direction,  about 
four  miles,  some  of  the  way  down  very  steep  declivities,  we  came 
to  Madden,  the  silver  mines,  at  which  we  had  passed  a  night,  on 
our  way  to  Persia  by  the  southern  route. 

Aug.  6.  Five  hours  brought  us  to  Karakapan.  Snow  was  in  sight 
in  almost  every  direction,  on  the  high  ridges.  Two  taverns  had 
been  erected  on  the  lofty  table-land  we  crossed,  siuce  we  went  to 
Persia.  The  whole  was  then  a  dreary  desolation.  These  taverns, 
however,  which  consist  of  small  shops  where  plain  provisions  are 
sold,  and  spacious  stalls  kept  ready  for  caravans,  can  be  occupied 
only  in  summer.  The  last  two  miles  before  reaching  Karakapan, 
led  us  down  steep,  rocky  and  difficult  precipices,  from  the  top  of 
some  of  the  highest  summits  in  ancient  Pontus. 

While  all  the  mountains,  which  we  had  crossed,  were  naked, 
those  now  below  us  were  richly  covered  with  forests ;  the  trees,  how- 
ever, being  rather  sparse,  with  but  little  under-brush,  and  inter- 
spersed with  cottages  of  the  Greeks  and  Laz,  and  small  cultivated 
patches — no  longer  house  joined  to  house,  in  huddled,  dirty  villages, 
but  dotted  over  the  mountain-sides  and  through  the  valleys,  at  va- 
rious distances.  The  whole  scene  was  delightful,  and  while  it 
deeply  impressed  the  bishop  with  the  superior  security  of  this  coun- 
try to  that  of  all  the  regions  beyond,  in  allowing  people  to  dwell  so 
far  apart,  it  transported  us,  also,  for  the  time,  to  the  hills  and  dales 
of  our  own  New  England. 

The  views  from  Karakapan,  so  grand  and  beautiful — the  waving 
forests,  with  cottages,  barns  and  smiling  fields  scattered  among 
them  in  long  perspective,  and  the  broad  sea,  dimly  rising  and  blend- 
ing with  the  sky,  were  soon  suddenly  shut  from  us  by  the -pavilion 
of  the  great  Creator.  The  deep  dark  clouds  came  rolling  up  from 
the  ravines,  in  a  manner  far  more  sublime  and  awful,  than  at  the 
same  place  on  our  former  journey — curling  and  sweeping  along  the 
cliffs,  till,  almost  in  a  twinkling,  they  rus.hed  furiously  by  us,  and 
enveloped  us  in  a  mist  so  thick,  that  we  could  scarcely  see  each 
other,  while  sitting  side  by  side  and  conversing  together.  In  a 
moment,  a  sudden  gust  of  wind  lifted  up  the  curtain  and  revealed 
the  panorama ;  and  anon,  as  the  wind  subsided,  it  settled  down 
again  and  clothed  us  in  a  darkness  that  we  felt.  We  sat  two  hours, 
almost  overwhelmed  by  these  wonders  and  sublimities  of  nature, 
through  which  our  thoughts  w^ere  most  naturally  and  irresistibly  led 
up  to  nature's  God. 

Starting  at  2  o'clock,  P.  M.  we  descended  the  long  mountain  to 
Javislik — a  second  ride,  to-day,  of  five  hours.  Our  road,  at  first 
very  steep,  at  length  became  less  so ;  and  we  left  the  clouds  above 
us  and  could  now  look  down  directly  upon  farm-houses  and  culti- 
vated fields,  which  we  had  but  indistinctly  seen  from  the  lofty 
heights  above.  About  half  way  down  the  descent,  we  came  upon 
a  level  tract,  the  forest  continuing  on  either  hand,  and  the  road  being 
very  muddy,  as  the  sun  was  entirely  shut  out  by  the  trees.  Here 
61 


482         REMINISCENCES  ILLNESS  STORM  VALLET. 


several  companies  of  men  were  at  work,  paving  with  stone  a  path 
about  seven  feet  wide,  under  the  direction  of  the  Pasha  of  Trebi- 
zond.  Every  two  or  three  miles,  too,  all  the  way  (rom  Karakapan, 
a  post-house  and  stables  had  arisen,  during  our  absence,  which 
strongly  impressed  us  with  the  truth  of  what  we  had  so  often  been 
reminded,  that  civilization  is  rapidly  pushing  itself  over  the  lofty 
and  ruff<Ted  mountains  of  Asia  Minor. 

Our  emotions  were  tender,  as  we  came  to  Javzslik,  and  pitched 
our  tent  by  the  side  of  the  roaring  stream,  on  precisely  the  same 
spot  where  we  pitched  it,  the  first  time  we  ever  lodged  under  a  tent, 
in  the  rain  storm,  the  first  evening  from  Trebizond.  How  many 
dangers,  exposures  and  trials,  through  which  the  Lord  had  carried 
us  in  the  interval,  rose  in  our  recollection,  at  the  sight  of  that  spot ! 
How  many  mercies  had  we  experienced  !  How  wonderfully  had  a 
kind  Providence  led  us  by  the  hand,  during  all  our  wanderings,  suc- 
ceeded us  in  the  long  course  of  our  missionary  labors  and  graciously 
helped  us  so  far  on  our  return  ! 

The  mountains  were  now  crossed,  and  we  felt  that  our  hardships, 
for  the  present,  were  over;  and  as  we  sat  quietly  under  our  tent,  our 
hearts  melted  in  gratitude  in  view  of  the  divine  goodness  to  us. 
Human  life,  however,  is  not  long  uninterrupted  sunshine.  Mrs.  P., 
whose  health  had  appeared  to  be  rapidly  improving  all  the  way  from 
Oroomiah,  was,  the  same  night,  taken  seriously  ill.  She  had  be- 
come very  tired  in  descending  the  long  mountain  from  Karakapan, 
being  obliged  to  walk  a  part  of  the  way,  was  in  a  state  of  perspira- 
tion when  we  reached  our  stopping-place,  and  by  not  taking  suf- 
ficient precaution,  caught  a  severe  cold  which  induced  her  illness. 
And  towards  morning,  a  violent  thunder-storm  occurred.  The  rain 
poured  down  in  such  torrents,  as  soon  to  flood  our  tent.  We  dug  a 
trench  around  it  to  convey  the  water  away,  and  I  spread  quilts  upon 
our  bed  and  placed  an  umbrella  over  Mrs.  P.'s  head,  and  thus  kept 
her  and  our  babe  from  much  exposure;  but  almost  everything  else 
in  our  tent  was  thoroughly  drenched. 

Au^.  7.  Mrs.  P.  was  so  feeble  as  scarcely  to  be  able  to  sit  upon 
her  horse;  but  she  much  preferred  attempting  it,  being  now  with- 
in one  stage  of  Trebizond,  to  remaining  in  our  comfortless  situa- 
tion at  Javislik.  I  found  some  dry  clothing  in  our  thick,  Russian 
leather-bags,  and  we  drank  a  cup  of  coffee  and  started  about  8 
o'clock.  As  we  advanced  down  the  narrow  valley  of  Trebizond 
river,  the  scene  assumed  almost  a  tropical  aspect, — the  olive  and 
fig,  as  well  as  a  great  variety  bf  berries,  growing  wild  and  in  singu- 
lar luxuriance.  The  glen  gradually  widened,  and  the  cultiva- 
ted patches  and  cottages  became  larger  and  more  numerous,  until 
the  whole  scene  seemed  familiar  and  almost  American.  As  we  ap- 
proached Trebizond,  we  rose  from  the  valley  of  the  river,  upon  a 
broad  country,  covered  with  beautiful  farms,  with  their  extensive 
fields,  pastures,  meadows  and  forests,  and  looking  down  upon  the 
quiet  city,  and  the  great  sea  with  here  and  there  a  vessel  upon  its 
bosom. 


EUROPEAN  ASPECT — QUARANTINE 


483 


About  a  mile  from  the  city,  we  found  the  road  intercepted  by  a 
quarantine  guard.  Mr.  Johnston,  in  expectation  of  our  arrival,  had 
made  arrangements  for  us  to  perform  quarantine  in  his  own  house, 
which  we  were  permitted  to  do,  by  the  graciousness  of  the  Pasha, 
on  condition  of  our  employing  a  Guardiano  to  watch  us.  Mr.  J. 
and  his  family  were  out  a  few  miles  in  the  country.  As  his  house 
was,  however,  occupied  by  two  members  of  the  English  embassy, 
who  were  to  proceed  in  two  days  on  their  way  to  Persia,  we  con- 
cluded to  stop  under  our  tent,  outsid-e  of  the  town,  during  the  ap- 
proaching Sabbath. 

Aug.  9.  We  went  into  the  city,  strongly  impressed  with  its 
EuropiMii  appearance,  with  its  houses  of  iYonc-walls,  tastefully 
whitened  with  lime,  and  its  tiled  roofs  inclined.  The  European 
quarter  had  rapidly  assumed  a  civilized  aspect,  both  by  the  increase 
of  foreign  residents  and  the  erection  of  superior  houses,  by  some  of 
the  natives.  The  narrow  streets,  however,  were  still  disagreeable. 
Soon  after  reaching  the  house  of  Mr.  J.,  to  which  we  were  formally 
conducted  through  the  city  by  our  guardiano,  I  sought  an  inter- 
view with  Sir  John  McNeill,  with  whom  1  had  been  acquainted  in 
Persia,  and  who  was  then  on  the  eve  of  commencing  his  land-jour- 
ney, on  his  return  as  ambassador  to  that  country.  He  received  me 
with  the  utmost  kindness,  and  of  his  own  accord  tendered  his  effi- 
cient aid  and  protection  to  our  mission,  expressing  his  confidence 
in  us  and  a  deep  interest  in  our  work. 

Aug.  10.  The  steamer  came  from  Constantinople !  We  had 
long  watched  for  its  appearance,  (it  being  later  by  some  hours  than 
usual,)  and  what  thrilling  recollections  did  the  sight  of  it  awaken  ! 
When  we  passed  here,  a  European  sailing  vessel  was  a  rare  curiosity. 
JS^ow,  two  weekly  steamers  visit  Trebizond.  Our  quarantine  proved 
to  be  an  amusing  farce.  The  entire  oversight  of  it  was  committed 
to  our  guardiano,  who,  instead  of  urging  strictness  in  its  observance, 
contrived  various  methods  to  help  us  through  it  as  superficially  as 
possible.  The  regulations  required,  that  after  bathing  in  the  sea, 
we  should  put  on  clean  clothes,  belonging  to  persons  not  in  quaran- 
tine. Our  Nestorian  companions,  being  strangers  in  a  strange 
land,  could  not  easily  procure  such  changes.  Tlie  guardiano  told 
them  to  put  on  their  own.  The  bishop,  who  had  been  robbed  on 
the  road,  had  two  suits,  one  of  which  he  had  subsequently  purchased 
of  a  Persian  merchant  at  Erzroom.  He  had,  the  day  before,  put  on 
his  clean  clothes,  in  prospect  of  entering  the  city.  But  to  make  the 
required  chwige,  the  guardiano  told  him  he  nmst  take  off  his  clean 
clothes  and  have  them  fumigated  and  laid  aside,  and  put  on  his 
dirty  clothes,  (which  he  had  worn  all  the  way  from  Erzroom,)  and 
wear  them  during  the  period  of  quarantine.  This  is  only  a  speci- 
men of  a  Turkish  quarantine.  From  beginning  to  end  it  was  highly 
amusing, — particularly,  as  we  had  little  apprehension  of  danger. 
We,  however,  made  no  attempt  to  evade  or  transgress  its  regulations. 
I  was  of  course  interested  to  notice  the  religious  and  missionary 


484       MISSIONARY  PROSPECTS  STEAMER  PASSENGERS. 


aspects  of  Trebizond.  The  Greeks  have,  from  the  first,  stoutly  op- 
posed our  mission  there, — not  so  much  the  people,  as  the  bigotted 
ecclesiastics.  Many  of  the  youth,  on  Mr.  Johnston's  first  arrival, 
manifested  an  earnest  desire  to  come  to  him  for  instruction ;  and 
some  actually  came,  but  were  soon  frightened  away  by  the  threats 
of  the  clergy ;  and  the  missionaries  have  never  been  able  to  do  any- 
thing effectual  for  this  class  of  the  population.  The  Armenian 
ecclesiastics  at  first  manifested  little  opposition.  The  bishop  was 
very  friendly  to  the  missionaries, — so  much  so,  that  he  was  removed 
by  the  Patriarch  of  Constantinople,  on  account  of  his  intimacy  with 
them  and  his  desire  to  enlighten  his  people.  He  was  succeeded  by 
a  prelate  whose  bigotry  is  equalled  only  by  his  ignorance ;  but  who 
has  fortimately  rendered  himself  so  obnoxious  to  his  flock,  that  it 
will  be  difficult  for  him  long  to  retain  his  place.  The  Armenians 
of  Trebizond  are  becoming  tired  of  many  of  the  corruptions  of  their 
sect, — particularly  the  use  of  pictures  in  churches;  so  much  so, 
that  churches  recently  built  are  very  sparingly  decorated.  There 
are  also  "  a  few  names"  who  come  to  the  missionary's  house  on  the 
Sabbath,  for  religious  instruction,  and  who  form  a  precious  nucleus, 
around  which  multitudes  will  ultimately  be  gathered  unto  the  Lord. 
I  attended  one  of  their  meetings,  and  have  seldon\  been  more  de- 
lightfully refreshed  in  any  religious  service.  Two  individuals,  in 
particular,  are  evidently  taught  of  the  Holy  Spirit.  Our  Nestorian 
bishop  was  introduced  to  them,  and  it  was  interesting  to  notice  how 
soon  they  were  all  using  one  language,  and  that,  "  the  language  of 
Canaan."  They  mutually  recognized  each  other  as  brethren  in 
Christ,  expressing  their  desire  that  all  Christians  might  lay  aside 
their  national  and  denominational  antipathies  and  become  one  in 
their  common  Lord.  Repeatedly,  too,  while  conversing  together, 
did  they  avow  the  Bible  as  an  ample  and  the  only  standard,  in  all 
matters  of  faith  and  practice. 

The  missionary  there  must  be  reproached  and  vilified  ;  but  he 
can,  still,  drop  here  a  Tract,  there  a  Bible,  and  speak  a  word  in 
season  to  this  and  that  individual ;  and  can  even  preach  to  a  little 
company  on  the  Sabbath,  assembled  secretly  for  fear  of  the  bishop, 
at  his  own  hired  house.  He  can  also  shed  forth  the  savor  of  a  holy 
example.  And,  notwithstanding  his  seclusion,  he  is  a  city  set  on  a 
hill, — an  epistle  of  the  American  churches,  seen  and  read  of  all 
men.  These  united  means,  silently  and  unostentatiously  exerted, 
are,  under  the  divine  blessing,  re-kindling  a  light  in  ancient  Pontus 
which  will  never  be  extinguished. 

Aug.  19.  We  took  passage  on  board  the  Austrian  steamer, 
Metternich, — 'One  of  the  fine  large  boats  that  ply  regularly  between 
Constantinople  and  Trebizond.  On  board  was  the  agent,  Mr. 
Chanaud,  with  his  wife  and  sister,  whom  we  found  very  agreeable 
companions.  The  native  passengers  were  a  motley  mass  of  almost 
all  Eastern  tongues  and  nations,  huddled  thickly  together  all  over 
the  deck,  except  half  of  the  quarter  deck,  which  was  separated  from 


SAMSOON  SINOPE  CHANGES. 


485 


the  rest  by  a  railing,  and  reserved  for  the  use  of  the  cabin  passen- 
gers. It  was  just  about  twelve  o'clock  when  we  glided  gently  away 
from  Trebizond.  The  green  mountains  and  hills,  and  the  city  it- 
self half  embowered  in  fruit-trees,  seemed  smilingly  to  give  us  an 
accordant  permission  to  go,  and  to  pledge  us  a  cordial  welcome  on 
our  hoped-for  return.  The  steamer  touches  at  two  places  on  the 
coast,  viz.  Samsoon  and  Sinope.  The  former  is  about  130  miles 
west  of  Trebizond,  at  the  head  of  a  bay.  It  is  a  small  town,  con- 
taining perhaps  five  thousand  inhabitants.  The  country  around  it 
resembles  that  in  the  vicinity  of  Trebi2ond,  except  that  the  moun- 
tains are  lower  and  less  precipitous.  Samsoon  is  the  great  entry 
from  the  Black  Sea  to  Anatolia  and  Mesopotamia.  Many  passen- 
gers from  the  interior  were  now  waiting  there  to  come  on  board. 
There  is  an  English  vice-consul  there — ^Mr.  Stephens — who  com- 
municates directly  with  the  English  resident  at  Bagdad.  A  regu- 
lar courier  passes  between  the  two  places,  making  the  journey  in 
twelve  or  fifteen  days;  and  this  is  the  route  usually  travelled  by  Eu- 
ropeans, on  their  way  to  Mosul  and  Bagdad,  and  the  best  one  for 
missionaries,  travelling  in  that  direction.  About  seventy  miles  west 
of  Samsoon,  is  Sinope,  celebrated  in  Roman  history.  It  is  situated 
on  a  peninsula,  the  connecting  isthmus  being  low  and  scarcely  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide.  The  peninsuhi  itself  is  a  high  rocky 
promontory. 

Aug.  22.  The  captain  called  us,  very  early,  to  observe  our  en- 
trance of  the  Bosphorus.  The  morning  was  clear  and  calm.  We 
glided  delightfully  down  the  Straits,  recognizing  the  familiar  shores 
of  this  charming  water,  and  seeming  to  ourselves  almost  as  though 
waking  from  a  long  dream.  We  dropped  anchor  in  the  harbor, 
about  six  o'clock  in  the  morning.  All  around  us  was  again  the  great 
city  of  Constantinople.  Everything  appeared  European.  Great 
changes  had  actually  taken  place,  during  our  absence.  Steamers 
were  darting  in  all  directions,  almost  as  briskly  as  in  the  harbor  of 
New  York ;  and  every  European  aspect  was  magnified  and  height- 
ened, in  our  view,  by  our  long  residence  in  the  dark  and  distant 
regions  beyond. 

It  was  soon  determined  that  we  must  all  go  to  the  Lazaretto,  and 
perform  another  quarantine,  on  the  ground  of  the  lax  regulations  at 
Trebizond.  The  native  passengers  blustered,  loudly  demurred  and 
prepared  a  remonstrance  to  send  to  the  Sultan,  being  encouraged 
to  do  so  by  the  captain  and  agent  of  the  steamer.  I  was  strongly 
importuned  to  second  it;  but  thought  it  better  to  submit  quietly 
to  the  powers  that  be,  particularly  as  I  did  not  wish  to  be  troubled 
with  the  matter  on  the  Sabbath.  For  one,  I  felt  fully  concious, 
moreover,  that  we  had  performed  .but  a  shadow  ot  a  quarantine  at 
Trebizond,  though  the  fault  was  not  our  own ;  and  I  was  not  sorry 
to  observe  symptoms  of  a  more  strict  system  at  the  capital.  In  the 
afternoon,  the  steamer  weighed  anchor  and  returned  to  the  Laza- 
retto,  which  is  five  or  six  miles  above  the  harbor  on  the  Asiatic 


486 


CARRIAGES  QUARANTINE  DOCTORS. 


shore  of  the  Bosphorus.  The  establishment  is  spacious,  convenient 
and  imposing.  Our  Nestorian  companions  soon  pronounced  it  the 
finest  palace  they  were  ever  in, — superior  even  to  that  of  the  king 
of  Persia.  It  was  built  for  barracks,  but  has  been  used  for  a  Laza- 
retto, most  of  the  time  since  the  quarantine  system  was  introduced 
into  Turkey.  Among  other  indications  of  advancement  in  civiliza- 
tion, we  here  noticed  carriages,  rattling  along  on  the  fine  level  road 
on  the  water's  edge, — the  pleasure  vehicles  of  Turkish  ladies,  in- 
stead of  their  grotesque  ox-wagons  of  former  times.  Most  of  the 
Turks  around  us,  too,  were  dressed  in  Frank  costume. 

Aug.  23.    We  were  visited  by  several  of  our  missionary  friends 
from  Constantinople.    Our  cup  of  joy  would  have  been  full  on  see- 
ing them,  had  we  not  still  been  separated  by  a  wide  space,  fenced 
off  on  either  hand,  and  cJosely  screened  on  one  side,  by  lattices.  An 
old  lame  Italian  doctor  was  in  an  apartment  near  us,  who  had  been 
employed  by  the  Turkish  government  as  quarantine  physician  at 
Samsoon.    He  gave  me,  to-day,  a  long  story  of  his  singular  adven- 
tures in  Persia,  about  thirty  years  ago,  having,  as  he  states,  been 
entrusted  with  a  secret  letter  from  Napoleon  to  Feth  Ali  Shah,  at 
the  time  when  the  French  emperor  was  meditating  an  expedition  to 
India.    The  bishop  told  me,  that  the  same  doctor  made  his  ac- 
quaintance, on  board  the  steamer,  and  urged  him  to  go  directly  to 
Rome  for  an  education, — offering  to  give  him  a  gratuitous  passage 
and  telling  him  that  the  rest  of  the  world  is  as  nothing  compared 
with  that  /loli/  city.    The  quarantine  system  is  scattering  almost 
innumerable  such  Papal  agents  through  the  ports  and  towns  of  the 
Turkish  empire,  in  the  capacity  of  quarantine  doctors.    The  one 
now  with  us,  told  me  that  nearly  three  hundred  European  phy- 
sicians— most  of  them  Frenchiuen  and  Italians — are  thus  employ- 
ed in  the  Lazarettos  of  Turkey.    What  an  array  of  Papal  influ- 
ence!     As  an  offset,  however,  the  quarantine  system  is  doing 
much  to  shake  down  Muhamm'edism,  by  bringing  all  ranks  -and 
classes  together,  and  placing  them  on  a  level.    Turks,  Armenians, 
Greeks  and  Jews,  are  thrown  into  the  same  apartment  and  com- 
pelled, in  a  great  measure,  to  live  in  common.    In  our  own  enclo- 
sure, our  Nestorian  fellow-travellers  occupied  a  room  in  one  corner, 
and  directly  opposite  was  a  brother  of  Hafis  Pasha,  one  of  the 
highest  officers  in  the  empire;  and  the  Nestorians,  who  may  not 
sit  in  the  presence  of  a  Persian  of  rank  at  home,  I  often  saw  con- 
versing familiarly  with  this  Turkish  noble.    Quarantine  regulations, 
steamboats,  and  other  levelling  influences,  are  working  changes  in 
Turkey,  far  more  mighty  and  rapid  than  could  be  effected  by  fleets 
and  armies. 

Aug.  31.  We  were  liberated  from  our  ten  days'  quarantine. 
Early  in  the  morning,  Mr.  Hamlin  very  kindly  came  over  from  Bey- 
bok — a  village  nearly  opposite  the  Lazaretto  where  he  resides — and 
conducted  us  home,  with  whom  and  his  wife,  we  had  a  delightful 
visit.    Mr.  H.  has  a  boarding-school,  of  very  promising  Armenian 


MEETING  WITH  FRIENDS  BATH  CONCERT.  487 


youth,  who  live  and  receive  instruction  in  his  family.  The  interest 
of  the  scene  can  better  be  conceived  than  described,  when,  at  morn- 
ing devotions,  these  youth  came  into  the  parlor  with  their  New 
Testaments,  and  read  a  chapter — each  reading  a  verse  in  turn — 
after  which  Mr.  H.  led  in  family  prayer,  in  their  native  language. 
His  school  is  almost  under  the  eaves  of  a  branch  of  a  Papal  college, 
and  the  learned  Jesuit  professors  seem  to  be  aware,  that  they  have, 
in  their  Protestant  neighbor,  a  match  for  them. 

Just  at  evening,  we  rode  in  a  caik,  down  to  the  city,  and  landed 
at  Top-khana.  Having  no  guide,  we  wandered  about  some  time  in 
Pera,  inquiring  for  the  American  dcrgyinan,  meaning  Mr.  Goodell, 
and  were  at  length  conducted  to  the  house  of  Dr.  Robertson,  a  long 
distance  out  of  our  way.  We  were,  however,  truly  happy  to  meet 
him  and  his  family,  from  whom  we  had  experienced  so  much  kind- 
ness at  Syra,  on  our  way  to  Persia.  There  also  we  had  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Southgate.  After  tea,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  R.  ac- 
companied us  to  Mr.  Goodell's.  Sweet  were  the  moments,  and 
rich  in  blessing,  as  we,  that  evening,  sal  down  with  our  missionary 
brethren  and  sisters,  and  recounted  together  the  trials  and  mercies 
we  had  experienced,  during  our  long  separation.  The  family  Bible 
was  at  length  brought,  and  a  chapter  read,  after  which  we  sung  a 
hymn,  and  prayer  was  offered  by  Mr.  Goodell,  whose  fervent,  im- 
pressive manner  seemed  to  bear  us  away  from  earth,  quite  to  the 
verge  of  heaven. 

Sept.  3.  We  attended  a  meeting  at  Mr.  Dwight's,  where  a  num- 
ber of  Armenians  statedly  assemble.  Mr.  D.  addressed  them  in 
the  form  of  an  expository  sermon.  They  were  very  attentive,  and 
appear  to  be  humble,  good  men.  Some  of  them  are  hopefully  pious, 
and  others  are  inquirers.  The  whole  number,  ever  present,  is  about 
seventy. 

Sc])t.  4.  We  visited  a  Turkish  bath.  The  ordeal  through  which 
one  passes,  at  the  baths  in  Constantinople,  is  very  thorough.  It 
consists  in  the  operator's  first  kneading  the  body  with  his  hands ; 
next,  nibbing  with  hot  water  and  a  thick  woollen  cloth  ;  and  finally, 
washing  with  soap  and  water.  The  process  was  exceedingly  re- 
freshing and  grateful.  I  had  never  before  visited  a  public  bath  m 
the  East.  The  Persians,  with  all  their  laxness  in  other  respects,  do 
not  admit  Christians  to  tlie  privileges  of  their  baths.  I  have  some- 
times been  questioned  concerning  the  cleanliness  of  the  Persians. 
Tt  is  rather  ceremonial  than  real.  They  may,  perhaps,  to  use  a  fa- 
miliar illustration,  be  compared  to  ducks — always  washing,  but 
never  clean.  A  Persian  once  charged  an  Englishman  with  want  of 
cleanliness,  because  he  did  not  oftener  bathe ;  on  whom  the  Eng- 
lishman, with  infinitely  better  reason,  retorted  the  charge,  because 
the  Persian  seldom  changed  his  linen,  though  he  often  bathed. 

Sept.  6.  We  attended  monthly  concert  at  Mr.  Dwight's,  at  11 
o'clock,  A.  M.,  the  services  being  conducted  in  the  Armenian  and 
Turkish  languages.    The  Nestorian  bishop  and  myself  gave  some 


488 


EXCITE>EENT  MORMON  MISSIONARY. 


account  of  our  mission,  which  seemed  greatly  to  delight  the  Ar- 
menians. Though  of  four  different  nations  and  communions,  Ar- 
menian, Greek,  American  and  Nestorian,  all  present  were  evidently 
of  one  heart  and  one  mind.  At  evening,  Mr.  Dwight  stated  the 
particulars  of  a  late  excitement,  among  the  Armenians,  which  is  of 
a  very  interesting  character,  as  indicating  the  progress  of  light. 
Not  long  since,  a  council  of  twenty-four  Armenians  was  organized 
— a  delegate  being  chosen,  by  all  belonging  to  a  particular  trade  or 
profession — to  confer  with  the  Patriarch,  and  consult  for  the  interests 
of  the  nation.  A  few  rich  bankers  and  the  higher  ecclesiastics, 
who  form  the  Armenian  aristocracy,  were  naturally  opposed  to  the 
existence  of  such  a  council ;  and  bringing  the  Patriarch  to  their 
views,  they  made  out  a  list  of  false  charges  against  its  members, 
which  they  presented  to  the  government.  The  members  of  the  coun- 
cil were  suddenly  arrested  and  thrown  into  prison.  As  soon  as  this 
was  known,  the  merchants  and  other  classes,  rushed  by  thousands 
to  the  Porte,  peremptorily  demanding  the  release  of  those  men,  and 
at  the  same  time  brow-beating  the  bankers  and  bishops  who  had 
also  assembled,  in  such  fearless  terms,  that  the  vizier  was  forced  to 
dismiss  the  prisoners,  and  promise  to  depose  the  Patriarch.  This 
commotion  indicates  a  wonderful  advance  of  free  inquiry,  and  free- 
dom of  speech  and  action,  especially  among  the  native  Christians, 
at  the  Turkish  capital. 

Sept.  21.  We  took  passage  on  board  the  steamer  Crescent,  for 
Smyrna.  We  had  a  delightftil  view  of  Constantinople,  as  we  left 
the  harbor,  and  passed  down  the  Marmora.  Nothing  can  surpass 
its  external  loveliness  and  magnificence.  The  Lord  hasten  the 
time,  when  St.  Sophia,  and  all  the  hallowed  temples  of  ancient 
christian  worship,  now  in  the  hands  of  the  enemy,  may  be  rescued 
and  filled  with  spiritual  worshippers. 

On  board  the  steamer  was  a  countryman — the  Reverend  Mr. 
Hyde,  of  Illinois  !  A  Mormon  missionary,  on  his  way  to  Jerusalem  ! 
He  had  reached  Constantinople  two  days  before,  and  sent  his  mes- 
sage in  writing  to  the  Jewish"  Patriarch  there,  and  hastened  on, 
without  seeing  that  dignitary,  or  waiting  for  an  answer,  in  his  zeal 
to  reach  the  holy  city.  His  particular  object,  he  said,  was  the  con- 
version of  the  Jews,  who,  he  expects,  are  soon  to  return  to  Jerusa- 
lem. He  had  been  twice  in  England,  as  he  stated,  since  1837, 
and  as  the  fruits  of  his  labors  there,  eight  or  ten  thousand  had  em- 
braced the  Mormon  system.  He  had  also  travelled  in  Germany, 
and  was  now  preparing  a  book  for  publication  in  the  German  lan- 
guage, which  was  to  contain  the  Mormon  system.  With  very 
moderate  cultivation,  he  evidently  possessed  no  small  share  of  tact 
and  shrewdness.  He  was  introduced  to  Mr.  Goodell,  as  an  Ameri- 
can clergyman,  and  dined  with  him.  From  some  source  unknown 
to  the  Mormon,  Mr.  Goodell  had  received  an  intimation  of  his  reli- 
gious connexion;  and  with  his  Yankee  birthright  of  asking  ques- 
tions, to  the  no  small  surprise  of  his  guest,  he  at  length  bolted  the 


SMYRNA  CONFLAGRATION. 


489 


inquiry  whether  he  were  not  a  Mormon ;  which,  with  a  momentary 
embarrassment,  the  stranger  answered  in  the  affirmative.  Conver- 
sation then  naturally  ran  upon  the  peculiarities  of  the  sect.  Mr. 
G.  inquirf^d  whether  they  hold,  that  they  enjoy  the  boon  of  inspira- 
tion. "  Yes,"  said  the  Mormon,  "  and  by  the  way,"  (patting  his 
host  upon  the  shoulder,)  "  I  am  thinking  that  you  have  just  had  a 
touch  of  it;"  alluding  to  Mr.  G.'s  knowledge  of  his  being  a  Mor- 
mon. The  names  by  which  the  sect  is  called,  were  next  mentioned. 
Latter  Day  Saints,  said  the  Mormon,  is  the  most  common  title 
among  them.  And  how,  inquired  Mr.  G.  with  a  slightly  curling 
tone,  do  latter  day  saints  differ  from  for7ncr  day  saints  ?  Wc  think 
they  do  not  differ  much  [i.  e.  primitive  Christians  and  his  sect], 
was  the  Mormon's  ready  reply.  Christians  in  America  have  pro- 
bably more  to  apprehend  than  to  despise,  in  that  growing  fanaticism  ; 
and  it  may  be,  in  relation  to  its  progress  abroad,  as  well  as  in  our 
own  country. 

Oct.  22.  While  passing  the  site  of  ancient  Troy  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  Straits  of  Dardanelles,  I  gazed  upon  the  great  plain,  the 
monumental  tumuli  and  mount  Ida  peering  in  the  distance,  with 
inexpressible  emotions. 

Sept.  23.  The  early  light  revealed  to  us  Smyrna,  which  we 
reached  about  eleven  o'clock  last  evening.  It  lies  along  a  low  moun- 
tain range  at  the  south-east  corner  of  the  deep  inland  bay.  I  was 
disappointed  in  its  external  appearance.  From  the  great  amount  of 
foreign  trade  which  is  carried  on  with  that  city,  I  had  supposed  it 
to  be  much  larger,  and  to  wear  a  much  more  European  aspect.  Mr. 
Temple,  the  eldest  of  the  American  missionaries  resident  there, 
came  on  board,  early  in  the  morning,  and  conducted  us  to  his  house. 
Eight  years, — the  period  since  I  had  seen  this  elder  brother, — had 
rapidly  deepened  the  furrows  of  care  and  toil  and  the  impressions  of 
a  foreign  climate  on  his  features,  and  the  same  was  true  of  his  wor- 
thy lady.  Mr.  Riggs,  another  missionary  of  our  Board,  and  Mr. 
Calhoun,  agent  of  the  American  Bible  Society,  soon  called  to  see  us. 
In  the  former,  I  recognized  a  beloved  college  class-mate,  and  with 
the  latter,  I  had  long  held  a  delightful  correspondence.  Mr.  Adger 
and  lady  we  met  at  Constantinople,  where  he  was  just  recovering 
from  the  small-pox,  which  had  laid  him  upon  the  brink  of  the  grave. 
Mr.  Temple  had,  in  accordance  with  a  request  which  I  had  forward- 
ed to  him  from  Constantinople,  already  engaged  a  passage  for  us, 
in  the  brig  Magoun,  of  Philadelphia,  Capt.  Haven ;  and  this  vessel 
was  to  sail  the  next  morning.  We  had  pxpected  to  enjoy  a  longer 
visit  with  our  missionary  friends  at  Smyrna ;  but  considering  the 
lateness  of  the  season,  we  could  not  regret  our  being  required  to 
leave  them  so  soon. 

About  one  third  of  the  city, — as  it  was  estimated  in  round  num- 
bers, 11,000  houses, — had,  a  few  weeks  before,  been  laid  in  ashes  by 
a  sweeping  conflagration.  The  consequent  distress  was  very  great. 
The  fire  did  not  reach  the  Frank  quarter.  The  Muhammedana  and 

62 


490         MISSIONARY  LABOBS  EMBARKATION  V^OYAGE. 


the  Jews  were  the  principal  suflerers.  They  were  now  rapidly  rebuild- 
ing; but  it  unist  require  a  long  period  before  the  town  will  recover 
from  such  a  disaster.  The  Sultan  had  made  some  provision  for  the 
temporary  relief  of  the  houseless  and  pennyless  inhabitants;  but  their 
wants  were  far  enough  from  being  fully  reached  by  the  hand  of 
government  or  of  charity.  Messrs.  Temple  and  Riggs  are  engaged 
in  labors  for  the  benefit  of  the  Greeks;  and  Mr.  Adger,  for  the  Ar- 
menians. They  are  all  doing  much  in  the  preparation  and  publica- 
tion of  books  and  a  Greek  and  an  Armenian  periodical.  The  light 
of  truth  is  advancing,  in  Smyrna  and  the  region  ;  and  the  influence 
of  the  books  and  periodicals  of  the  missionaries,  is  deeply  felt,  through 
the  length  and  breadth  of  the  Greek  and  Armenian  countries. 

Srpt.  24,  Our  emotions  were  peculiar,  as  we  found  ourselves, 
after  all  our  wanderings,  once  more  on  board  an  American  mer- 
chantman, expecting,  if  God  should  prosper  us,  that  our  next  stop- 
ping-place would  be  on  our  native  soil.  Our  vessel  was  the  first  of 
the  fruit-vessels  of  the  season,  that  cleared  the  harbor  of  Smyrna,  and 
our  captain  started  with  a  feeling  of  proud  assurance,  that  his  cargo 
would  be  the  first  in  America.  And  if  untiring  exertions,  anxious  so- 
licitude, and  the  most  scrupulous  fidelity  and  devotion  to  the  inter- 
ests of  his  employers  could  have  effected  it,  he  would  have  been  the 
first  to  reach  home.  But  the  merchantman  must  still  depend  on  the 
fickleness  of  the  wind,  which  blovveth  where  and  when  it  listeth, 
just  as  much  as  it  did  before  rail-roads  and  steam-boats  were  known. 
Sixty-five  days  was  the  time  proposed  by  the  captain,  when  we  start- 
ed, as  the  maximum  period  of  our  voyage  ;  but  so  far  from  that,  we 
were  one  hundred  and  nine  days  on  our  way  to  New  York. 

We  were  forty-three  days  in  reaching  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar, 
during  which  we  "  were  driven  about,"  as  was  Paul,  "  in  Adria," 
being  tempest-tossed  in  one  instance,  between  Sicily  and  Malta,  a 
whole  week,  without  advancing  a  foot,  and  amid  seas  which  the  cap- 
tain estimated  to  be  fifty-five  feet,  from  their  yawning  depths  to  their 
foaming  summits.  We  encountered  another  storm  of  similar  dura- 
tion  and  violence,  between  Sicily  and  Sardinia.  We  then  enjoyed  a 
prosperous  sail  to  the  Western  Islands,  and  our  hopes  of  soon  reach- 
ing home  were  again  high  raised ;  but  a  little  to  the  westward  of 
those  islands,  we  encountered  an  almost  uninterrupted  storm  of 
three  weeks,  during  which  we  were  unable  to  advance  a  single  mile, 
though  we  were  repeatedly  driven  back  hundreds  of  miles,  and  again 
made  our  way  up  to  the  same  Rubicon,  which  was  about  37°  west 
longitude.  The  wonders  of  the  mighty  deep  were  still  more  awful 
and  terrific  in  the  midst  of  the  Atlantic,  during  this  period,  than 
those  which  we  had  witnessed  in  the  storms  of  the  Mediterranean. 
Our  vessel  was  an  old  one  and  we  should  have  been  anxious  for  our 
safety,  had  not  our  captain  been  a  man  of  courage  enough  to  lie  to, 
in  violent  gales,  when  attempts  to  sail  would,  in  any  vessel,  do  little 
more  than  incur  peril.  In  one  instance,  we  were  thrown  into  most 
imminent  danger  from  another  source.    As  we  were  lying  hove  to, 


IMMINENT  PERIL  CONTRAST  INFANT  SAILOR. 


491 


in  a  violent  storm,  a  large  ship  dashed  by  us,  in  the  darkness  oLmid- 
night,  running  before  the  wind  at  the  rapid  rate  of  nine  or  ten  knots 
an  hoar,  and  came  within  a  few  feet  of  us.  Had  she  struck  our  ves- 
sel, we  must  have  been  sunk  in  a  moment,  and  never  known  the 
cause.  I  remonstrated  with  the  captain  as  far  as  it  was  proper,  for 
not  keeping  np  lights  at  night,  as  lie  had  done  in  the  Mediterranean. 
*  There  is  not  one  chance  in  a  thousand,'  he  replied,  '  of  running 
foul  of  a  vessel  on  the  wide  ocean.'  But  who  would  wish  to  be  in 
that  thousandth  vessel  !  There  was  an  apology  in  his  case,  howev- 
er, as  our  unexpectedly  lona  passage  was  likely  to  make  us  short  of 
oil. 

Our  captain  had  early  and  very  properly  put  us  on  allowance  of 
provisions  and  water,  in  prospect  of  a  long  passage.  Considering 
the  length  of  the  period  we  were  out,  we  fared  comfortably  to  the 
end,  though  we  had  reached  our  last  barrel  of  water,  and  had  for 
some  time  felt  anxious  on  this  point,  before  we  reached  New  York, 
on  the  11th  of  Jan.  1842.  Mar  Yohannan,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
rest  of  our-party,  became  tired  enough  of  the  ocean,  and  the  transi- 
tion, as  he  left  the  long  prison  of  the  cabin  of  the  Magoun  and  sal- 
lied forth  into  Broadway,  ranged  over  the  great  commercial  metrop- 
olis of  the  New  World  and  gazed  upon  its  wonders,  was  altogether 
indescribable.  And  to  us  who  had  been  so  long  in  a  distant  exile, 
where  we  had  seen  the  face  of  but  a  single  American  besides  our 
missionary  companions,  our  sudden  change  was  little  less  striking. 
It  appeared  to  us  passing  strange,  to  hear  every  one  around  us  speak- 
ing the  English  language  and  see  them  all  dressed  in  our  own  cos- 
tume. And  at  night,  we  almost  fancied  ourselves  in  a  fairy  land,  as 
we  saw  the  streets  all  lighted,  the  houses  opening  directly  to  them, 
and  gentlemen  and  ladies  briskly  promenading  the  pavements,  un- 
conscious of  exposure, — so  different  was  the  whole  from  Persia. 

While  this  change,  from  the  tedium  and  perils  of  our  long  voyage 
to  the  freedom  of  the  shore,  the  greeting  of  friends  after  our  long  ab- 
sence, and  the  tender  delights  of  reaching  America,  were  grateful 
to  us  beyond  description,  I  must  except  one  of  our  number.  Ju- 
dith, who  was  thirteen  months  old  when  we  left  Smyrna,  earned  an 
eulogiuni  on  the  ocean  as  well  as  on  the  land,  having  thrived  won- 
derfully during  our  whole  rough  passage,  and  seeming  to  enjoy  life 
at  sea  far  more  than  anywhere  else.  She  began  to  walk  the  day 
we  embarked,  and  soon  became  able  to  run  about  the  deck,  with  a 
nimbleness  that  put  to  blush  her  fellow-passengers,  and  almost  vied 
with  the  practised  sailors  ;  and  she  became  so  fond  of  the  deck,  that 
we  found  it  extremely  difficult  to  quiet  her  in  the  cabin,  during  her 
waking  hours,  and  were  obliged  to  allow  her  a  free  range  above, 
even  while  the  vessel  was  lying  to  in  gales,  if  it  did  not  actually 
storm.  Without  any  milk  on  the  passage,  and  living  only  on  ordi- 
nary passenger's  fare,  she  grew  rapidly  and  was  contented  and  hap- 
py, to  the  last,  to  an  extent  that  astonished  all  on  board. 

One  circumstance,  attending  our  voyage,  though  peculiar  to  a 


492        FRUIT  VESSEL  ^WORMS  MISSIONARY  MEETING. 


fruit-vessel,  I  should  not  omit  to  mention.  Our  cargo,  besides  rai- 
sins and  some  other  articles,  contained  15,000  drums  of  figs.  Eve- 
ry fig,  soon  after  being  put  up,  discharges  a  worm,  resembling  in  size 
and  appearance  the  common  worm  of  the  apple.  And  during  the 
first  three  weeks  of  our  voyage,  the  vessel  was  full  of  those  worms. 
The  deck,  and  the  walls  and  ceiling  of  the  cabin,  at  all  times,  pre- 
sented literally  an  animated  scene, — nay,  the  little  creatures  were 
everywhere.  They  would  weave  their  web  in  our  ears  while  we 
were  asleep  at  night,  and  work  themselves  into  every  trunk  and  gar- 
ment and  seam  ;  and  they  had  such  power  of  attenuating  themselves 
that  they  entered  my  writing-desk,  which  appeared  to  shut  perfect- 
ly tight,  and  even  worked  themselves  up  into  the  interior  of  every 
goose-quill,  where  there  was  hardly  a  perceptible  orifice.  They, 
however,  neither  bite  nor  sting,  and  during  the  fourth  week  of  the 
voyage,  they  wholly  disappeared.  Should  the  curious  be  inclined 
more  accurately  to  know  the  number,  besides  the  data  T  have  given, 
he  might  perhaps  estimate  it,  by  ascertaining  the  number  of  figs  in 
a  drum.  I  may  also  add,  that  the  Nestorian  bishop,  in  view  of  the 
number,  would  often  shudder  and  in  his  broken  English,  say  of 
them,  "  Oh,  plenty  " — "  very  plenty."  The  reader  can  do  as  he 
chooses,  with  the  facts  before  him,  about  sailing  in  a  fruit-vessel. 

Our  friends  at  home,  after  the  arrival  of  several  ships  from 
Smyrna,  which  left  that  port  later  than  our  own,  looked  anxiously  for 
us  and  were  at  length  constrained  to  give  us  up  as  lost.  A  reason 
finally  appeared,  wherefore  we  were  detained.  One  of  the  first  items 
of  intelligence  that  reached  me  after  going  on  shore  was,  that  a 
special  meeting  of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.  was  to  take  place  in  New 
York  the  next  week.  How  did  the  news  thrill  our  bosoms,  indica- 
ting, as  the  measure  did,  not  more  an  exigency,  in  the  financial  af- 
fairs of  that  Board,  than  a  deepened,  quickened  and  extended  in- 
terest in  the  great  cause,  in  which  it  is  engaged.  Mar  Yohannan's 
arrival  just  at  that  juncture,  and  his  novel  and  striking  appearance 
at  the  meetings,  naturally  and  necessarily  gave  a  thrilling  interest  to 
the  occasion, — an  interest,  perhaps  important  enough,  in  the  estima- 
tion of  the  great  Head  of  missions,  for  Him  to  have  charged  the 
winds  and  the  waves  concerning  us,  to  keep  us  back  unharmed, 
until  the  eve  of  that  important  occasion.  And  how  did  our  hearts 
melt  and  overflow  within  us,  as  we  came  from  the  deep  darkness  of 
benighted  Persia,  to  be  thus  ushered  directly  into  the  great  congre- 
gation of  the  wise  and  the  good,  convened  from  different  and  distant 
places,  to  consult  and  to  pray  for  the  prosperity  of  Zion  in  heathen 
lands. 


THE  AGENCY  OF  GOD  IN  MISSIONS. 


493 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

CONCLUSION. 

In  the  form  of  a  concluding  chapter,  I  may  briefly  and  informal- 
ly recall  the  attention  of  the  reader,  to  some  of  the  general  impres- 
sions which  he  may  have  received  in  the  perusal  of  the  foregoing 
pages,  to  aid  in  fixing  them  the  more  distinctly  in  his  mind,  as  well 
as  throw  together  a  few  miscellaneous  topics,  not  elsewhere  intro- 
duced. 

One  such  impression  naturally  remarked  is,  the  reality  and  con- 
stancy of  the  presence  and  agency  of  God,  in  all  that  pertains  to  his 
missionary  servants.  He  sustains  them  under  their  toils  and  trials, 
and  protects  them  in  their  exposures.  Not  a  tear  starts  in  their 
eyes  without  his  sympathy.  Not  a  hair  falls  from  their  heads  with- 
out his  notice.  And  not  a  stroke  of  violence  is  inflicted  on  their 
persons  without  his  permission.  Nor  less  real  and  constant  is  his 
agency  in  whatever  of  success  attends  their  labors.  However  sig- 
nally the  word  of  the  Lord  has  free  course  and  is  glorifled  through 
their  instrumentality,  their  part  of  the  work  is  only  instrumentality. 
All  the  efficiency  is  of  God. 

From  the  commencement  of  our  mission  to  the  present  time,  we 
have  had  fresh  occasion,  at  every  step,  to  rear  an  "Ebenezer"  and 
thankfully  inscribe  upon  it,  "Hitherto  hath  the  Lord  helped  us." 
This  cannot  fail  to  appear,  if  we  call  to  mind  our  unobstructed  ac- 
cess to  the  people  from  the  first — our  oft  repeated  restoration  from 
distressing  sickness — the  long  preservation  of  our  lives,  amid  the 
deadly  influences  of  a  pestilentiaJ  climate,  and  of  our  work,  amid  the 
threatening  prospects  of  hostile  commotion — our  manifold  deliver- 
ances from  perplexities  and  difficulties,  from  the  subtle  designs  of 
artful  and  formidable  Papal  adversaries,  from  personal  danger  and 
from  death — the  favor  and  protection  which  we  have  enjoyed  from 
Mohammedan  rulers — the  uninterrupted  general  prosperity  that  has 
attended  our  various  and  extensive  missionary  labors,  and  above  all, 
the  influences  of  the  Holy  S()irit,  vouchsafed  to  crown  with  a  mea- 
sure of  saving  success  our  unworthy  instrumentality.  It  is  one  of 
the  richest  sources  of  encouragement  and  support  to  the  missionary, 
and  should  not  be  less  so  to  his  patrons,  to  be  able  thus  to  recognize 
the  hand  of  God,  as  working  with  them  and  through  them  ;  thus 
and  thus  alone  is  the  ultimate  success  of  the  cause  made  to  rest  up- 
on the  foundation  of  a  blessed  certainty;  for,  " except  the  Lord 
build  the  house,  they  labor  in  vain  that  would  build  it;"  and  \^  He 
build  it,  it  will  be  reared,  and  the  gates  of  hell  shall  not  prevail 
against  it. 

The  enterprise  of  missions,  is,  from  beginning  to  end,  a  work  of 


494 


SACRIFICES  REWARDS  FEMALE  AGENCY. 


sacrifices;  but  this  should  not  impair  its  interest  nor  load  it  with 
objections.  It  uommenced  with  the  great  atoning  Sacrifice,  for  a 
fallen  world  ;  and  sacrifices  must  characterize  it,  till  the  world  is 
brought  back  to  its  allegiance  to  God.  As  the  Lord  Jesus,  though 
being  in  the  form  of  God,  divested  himself  of  the  radiant  splendors 
of  the  divine  glory,  made  himself  of  no  reputation,  took  upon  him 
the  form  of  a  servant,  was  made  in  the  likeness  of  men,  became 
obedient  unto  death,  even  the  death  of  the  cross,  so  his  followers  are 
enjoined  by  an  apostle,  to  let  this  mind  be  in  them,  which  was  also 
in  Christ  Jesus.  The  disciple  is  not  above  his  Master  nor  the  ser- 
vant above  his  Lord.  Because,  then,  the  work  of  diffusing  the 
knowledge  of  that  great  salvation,  which  He,  by  his  infinite  conde- 
scension— his  life  of  sufferings  and  death  of  agony,  has  provided, 
requires  sacrifices  on  the  part  of  his  children,  shall  they  demur,  and 
regretfully  ask,  as  did  the  grudging  disciples  when  the  precious  oint- 
ment was  poured  upon  his  head,  "  to  what  purpose  is  this  waste  V 
Is  the  object  of  such  sacrifices  and  the  reward  for  them  not  an  am- 
ple compensation  1  Ask  an  apostle.  '  For  as  the  sufferings  of 
Christ  abound,  in  us,  so  our  consolation  also  aboundeth  by  Christ. 
I  count  all  things  but  loss,  that  I  may  know  Him  and  the  power 
of  His  resurrection  and  \he  fellowship  of  his  sufferings.  For  to  you 
it  is  given — [an  exalted  privilege] — in  the  behalf  of  Christ,  not  only 
to  believe  on  him,  but  also  to  suffer  for  his  sake.'  O  how  inade- 
quately do  those  believers  prize  their  spiritual  birth-right,  and  esti- 
mate the  salvation  of  a  perishing  world,  who  make  their  sad  lament- 
ation over  the  sacrifices,  involved  in  the  work  of  missions  ! 

Female  consecration  to  the  work  is,  by  many,  regarded,  not  only 
as  a  sacrifice,  but  a  gratuitous  one — not  called  for — thrown  away. 
Little  do  such  know  the  value  of  female  influence  in  the  foreign 
field.  If  the  wife,  by  her  sustaining  power,  can  render  the  mission- 
ary, who,  as  a  single  man,  might  sink  into  the  grave,  under  the 
burden  of  his  work  and  the  solitude  of  his  situation,  within  five  years 
after  reaching  his  post,  an  efficient  laborer,  twice,  thrice  or  four 
times  five  years,  the  probability  of  which  it  would  not  be  difBcult  to 
show,  to  say  nothing  of  the  many  other  inestimable  benefits  of  her 
example  and  labors,  is  the  life  of  that  female  thrown  away  1  It  is 
matter  of  unfeigned  gratitude  to  God,  that  there  are  not  wantmg 
devoted  females,  to  earn  and  to  receive,  in  the  missionary  service, 
that  plaudit,  so  much  more  enviable  than  the  marble  of  the  CsBsars, 
of  which,  not  alone  a  mercenary  Judas,  but  many  a  faithful  disciple, 
unwittingly,  would  rob  them,  "She  hath  done  what  she  could." 
The  churches  may  spare  their  regret  for  the  sacrifice  of  such  females, 
or  at  least,  exchange  it  for  prayer  and  thanksgiving,  on  their  account. 
Says  another,  "Sometimes,  brethren,  when  I  have  thought  of  them, 
[missionaries,]  as  far  off,  surrounded  only  by  the  darkness  and  de- 
gradation of  heathenism,  suffering  every  privation,  toiling  from  year 
to  year  under  every  outward  discouragement,  with  no  friendly  voice 
to  animate  them,  and  no  sympathizing  bosom  on  which  to  repose 


SACRIFICES  AT  HOME  TRIALS  OF  OUR  FIELD.  495 


their  aching  heads  in  the  hour  of  despondency  and  gloom; — when 
I  have  thought  of  the  delicate,  the  refined,  the  enlightened  female 
missionary,  the  dew  of  her  youth  expended  in  ceaseless  anxieties 
and  unremitted  toil — when  I  have  followed  her,  in  iny  imagination, 
to  some  secluded  spot  to  which  she  is  wont  to  retire,  perhaps  in  the 
stillness  of  the  evening  hour,  to  think  of  her  home,  and  to  recall  the 
looks  and  the  affections  of  those  from  whom  she  is  separated  until 
they  meet  beyond  the  vale  of  death,  where  parting  is  unknown ; 
and  when  I  have  there  witnessed  the  deep,  convulsive  throes  of  her 
heart,  while  the  tears  chase  each  other  over  her  pale  and  care-worn 
cheeks — I  have  said  in  my  haste — It  is  too  much — can,  does  God 
require  it]  But  when  I  have  read  of  their  love  for  the  work,  and 
how  their  consolations  abounded  in  the  midst  of  their  trials; — when 
I  have  read  of  their  holy  enjoyment  in  God,  of  their  sweet  peace  of 
mind,  of  their  ardent  aspirations  after  heaven,  as  faith  unfolded  to 
their  enraptured  vision  the  brightness  of  its  glory ; — when  I  have 
read  of  their  composed,  of  their  peaceful  and  triumphant  death,  and 
thought  of  the  unfading  brilliancy  of  that  crown,  which  shall  encir- 
cle their  brows — I  have  said — It  is  not  a  vain  thing  to  serve  the 
Lord; — whatever  sacrifices  it  involves,  its  rewards  are  infinitely 
preferable  to  earth's  highest  honors  and  purest  pleasures."* 

We  would  not  lay  down  the  principle,  that  missionaries  should,  in 
all  cases,  be  married  men.  There  are  fields,  spheres  of  labor  and 
circumstances,  as  there  doubtless  will  be,  till  the  world  is  converted, 
in  which  it  is  as  clearly  expedient  for  modern  missionaries  to  go 
forth  and  labor  single,  as  it  was  for  Paul,  in  the  "distress"  of  the 
times  in  which  he  lived;  and  modern  Pauls,  when  duty  requires  it, 
will  rejoice  to  make  this  sacrifice  also,  and  follow  in  this  particular 
the  example  of  the  great  apostle. 

Most  Christians  at  home  have  hardly  yet  known  the  meaning  of 
the  term,  sacrifice,  in  connexion  with  the  work  of  missions.  How 
few,  comparatively,  have  ever  given  to  this  cause,  a  contribution 
beyond  their  entire  convenience,  or  even  half  what  they  might  have 
given,  without  feeling  it.  God,  in  his  providence,  seems  about  to 
afford  them  an  opportunity  to  learn  the  lesson  and  taste  the  luxury 
of  making  sacrifices.  May  they  prize  and  embrace  the  privilege, 
and  reap  the  recompense  of  reward. 

Our  missionary  field  has  necessarily  been  one' of  somewhat  pecu- 
liar self-denial, — difficult  of  access — facilities  for  communication 
irregular  and  imperfect — encompassed  by  vast  territories  of  Mahara- 
medan  dominion,  and  with  a  sickly  climate.  Any  field,  however, 
is  far  more  trying  to  pioneers  than  to  their  successors.  Ours  may 
now  be  commonly  reached  by  the  missionary,  in  company  with 
caravans,  without  much  danger;  and  the  fatigue  of  the  long  land- 
journey,  with  proper  precautions,  need  not  amount  to  very  serious 
exposure  to  a  lady.  Our  health-retreat  holds  out  the  grateful  promise 


"  Rev.  Dr.  W.  R.  Dewitt's  sermon  before  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.  1842,  p.  18. 


496 


MISSION  PRExMISES- 


;  IMPORTANCE  OF  HOPE. 


of  relief  from  the  sickliness  of  the  climate.  And  our  contiguous 
situation,  iti  the  city  of  Oroomiah,  contributes  much  to  the  security 
and  comfort  of  our  residence.  Our  mission  premises  embrace  about 
an  acre,  pleasantly  shaded  by  numerous  tall  sycamores,  enclosed  on 
all  sides,  by  a  high  mud-wall  and  entered  by  a  single  gate.  Within 
this  enclosure  are  the  dwellings  of  the  missionaries,  (four  families,) 
our  seminary  of  about  fifty  pupils, — our  girl's  boarding-school,  of 
between  twenty  and  thirty — and  our  printing  establishment, — in  dl, 
about  one  hundred  individuals,  besides  our  school  for  young  Mu- 
hammedans  and  our  medical  dispensary.  Our  permanent  commu- 
nity are  regulated  in  their  labors,  studies,  recitations  and  religious 
exercises,  by  the  hours  of  the  day,  somewhat  in  the  manner  of  a 
college  in  America,  while  the  members  of  the  mission  are  also  abroad 
among  the  villages,  more  or  less,  visiting  the  schools  and  preaching 
the  gospel.  Our  proximity  to  each  other  renders  it  easy  for  the 
missionaries  to  be  together  daily,  or  oftener,  for  business,  or  social 
and  religious  purposes,  and  is  an  unspeakable  relief  in  case  of  sick- 
ness. Thus,  far  away  in  a  benighted  land,  and  in  the  heart  of  a 
Muhammedan  city, 

We  are  a  garden,  walled  arnund, 
Chosen  and  made  peculiar  ground, 
A  little  spot,  enclosed  by  grace, 
Out  of  the  world's  wide  wilderness. 

Like  trees  of  myrrh  and  spice  we  stand, 
Planted  by  God,  the  Father's  hand ; 
And  all  his  springs  in  Zion  flow, 
To  make  the  young  plantation  grow. 

We  do  not,  however,  expect  entire  exemption  from  sufferings,  nor 
would  we  ask  it,  while  cheered  by  the  animating  assurance,  that  if 
we  suffer  with  Him  [Christ,]  we  ^hall  also  reign  with  Him. 

While  speaking  of  sacrifices,  I  should  not  omit  to  suggest,  that 
in  view  of  the  self-denials  and  trials  incident  to  hie  work,  hope  is  an 
important  element  in  the  missionary's  character.  It  is  indeed  a 
cardinal  christian  grace,  in  believers  in  general, — placed  between 
faith  and  charity  by  an  apostle.  But  it  is  preeminently  indispensa- 
ble, in  the  foreign  laborer,  who  would  be  happy  and  successful,  in 
his  arduous  undertaking.  No  doubting  Thomas  ought  ever  to  be 
sent  into  the  field,  to  hang  as  a  mill-stone  upon  the  necks  of  his 
sufficiently  burdened  brethren,  magnifying  difficulties,  and  creating 
the  discouragements  which  he  fancies  to  exist.  The  missionary 
must  be  disposed  habitually  to  rejoice  in  hope,  as  well  as  be  patient 
in  tribulation  and  instant  in  prayer.  Not  that  he  need  be,  or  should 
be,  unduly  sanguine  in  his  expectations.  In  medio  tiitissimus  ibis; 
safety  lies  between  the  two.  He  must  expect  great  things,  for 
Christ's  kingdom — at  least  hope  for  them — or  he  will  never  attempt 
great  things. 

The  state  and  prospects  of  our  mission  to  the  Nestorians  are  in- 


SCHOOLS  PEOGRESS  THE  PRESS. 


497 


creasingly  encouraging.  We  have  multiplied  village-schools,  from 
time  to  time,  as  teachers  have  become  qualified  in  our  seminary,  to 
the  utmost  extent  of  our  pecuniary  means.  These  schools  are  now 
about  twenty  in  number,  besides  the  seminary  and  female  boarding- 
school,  all  of  which  have,  from  their  commencement,  been  in  a 
flourishing  condition.  They  contain  about  five  hundred  scholars  *, 
and  it  is  delightful  to  mark  the  progress  of  these  scholars,  where, 
a  few  years  ago,  no  schools  existed, — to  see  them  gradually  rise,  in 
the  brief  course  of  even  the  imperfect  education  which  we  are  able 
to  furnish  them,  from  the  rude,  ignorant,  squalid  children,  first  col- 
lected, up  to  the  comparatively  intelligent  young  men,  like  plants 
grown  up  in  their  youth,  and  daughters,  as  corner-stones,  polished 
after  the  similitude  of  a  palace;  and  yet  more  delightful,  to  mark 
their  rapid  progress  in  religious  knowledge,  their  increased  atten- 
tion to  eternal  things,  and  the  hopeful  conversion  of  here  and  there 
one  from  the  power  and  bondage  of  sin,  to  the  love  and  service  of  the 
living  God.  Our  educational  efforts  hold  out  the  cheering  prospect,  in 
conne.Kion  with  our  other  labors,  of  furnishing  the  Nestorians  with 
an  intelligent  and  pious  ministry;  and  with  their  aid,  of  gradually 
raising  the  whole  mass  to  an  intelligent  and  virtuous  people. 

It  is  but  a  little  more  than  two  years  since  the  arrival  of  our 
press,  and  the  commencement  of  printing  among  the  Nestorians. 
The  power  of  this  mighty  agency  can  never  be  told,  especially  in 
its  operations  in  a  benighted  land.  The  press  has  sometimes  been 
called  the  modern  gift  of  tongues.  It  is  so;  but  is  also  much  more. 
It  is  the  gift  of  tongues  stereotyped.  Instead  of  the  ephemeral  unc- 
tion of  a  Pentecostal  occasion,  by  which  every  man  was  made  to 
hear  of  the  wonderful  works  of  God  in  his  own  language,  it  gives  to 
them  all  the  permanent  record  of  those  wonderful  works,  to  be  read 
and  re-read,  and  transmitted  to  successive  generations.  And  in- 
stead of  being  limited  to  Jerusalem,  or  carried  to  their  respective 
countries,  by  the  living  voice  of  all  those  Parthians  and  Medes  and 
dwellers  in  Mesopotamia,  as  was  the  gospel  originally  conveyed, 
the  press  has  the  power  of  ubiquity.  The  same  organ  proclaims 
the  truth,  not  in  one  country,  nor  two,  nor  ten,  but  on  both  conti- 
nents, and  in  all  lands;  and  in  our  day,  almost  simultaneously.  I 
hardly  need  say,  that  our  printing  establishment,  under  the  able  and 
efficient  management  of  Mr.  Breath,  promises  unspeakable  blessings 
to  the  Nestorians;  and  while  it  is  like  a  tree  of  life  to  that  people 
in  particular,  some  of  its  leaves  will  not  fail  to  prove  a  healing  to 
the  other  nations  also  of  those  benighted  regions,  that  are  impor- 
tuning us  to  make  books  for  them,  as  well  as  for  the  native  Chris- 
tians. In  connexion  with  my  other  labors,  I  have  commonly  spent 
a  part  of  each  day  in  the  work  of  translation,  and  have  thus  been 
enabled  to  complete  a  version  of  the  New  Testament,  and  some 
smaller  works  for  our  schools.  Parts  of  the  New  Testament  are 
already  printed,  and  we  hope  erelong  to  have  the  whole  in  free  cir- 
culation, incur  schools  and  among  the  people.    Several  Tracts,  pre- 


496  MISSION  PREMISES  IMPORTANCE  OF  HOPE. 


of  relief  from  the  sickliness  of  the  climate.  And  our  contiguous 
situation,  in  the  city  of  Oroomiah,  contributes  much  to  the  security 
and  comfort  of  our  residence.  Our  mission  premises  embrace  about 
an  acre,  pleasantly  shaded  by  numerous  tall  sycamores,  enclosed  on 
all  sides,  by  a  high  raud-wall  and  entered  by  a  single  gate.  Within 
this  enclosure  are  the  dwellings  of  the  missionaries,  (four  families,) 
our  seminary  of  about  fifty  pupils, — our  girl's  boarding-school,  of 
between  twenty  and  thirty — and  our  printing  establishment, — in  all, 
about  one  hundred  individuals,  besides  our  school  for  young  Mu- 
hammedans  and  our  medical  dispensary.  Our  permanent  commu- 
nity are  regulated  in  their  labors,  studies,  recitations  and  religious 
exercises,  by  the  hours  of  the  day,  somewhat  in  the  manner  of  a 
college  in  America,  while  the  members  of  the  mission  are  also  abroad 
among  the  villages,  more  or  less,  visiting  the  schools  and  preaching 
the  gospel.  Our  proximity  to  each  other  renders  it  easy  for  the 
missionaries  to  be  together  daily,  or  oftener,  for  business,  or  social 
and  religious  purposes,  and  is  an  unspeakable  relief  in  case  of  sick- 
ness. Thus,  far  away  in  a  benighted  land,  and  in  the  heart  of  a 
Muharamedan  city. 

We  are  a  garden,  walled  arnund, 
Chnsen  and  made  peculiar  ground, 
A  little  spot,  enclosed  by  grace, 
Out  of  the  world's  wide  wilderness. 

Like  trees  of  myrrh  and  spice  we  stand, 
Planted  by  God,  the  Father's  hand; 
And  all  his  springs  in  Zion  flow, 
To  make  the  young  plantation  grow. 

We  do  not,  however,  expect  entire  exemption  from  sufferings,  nor 
would  we  ask  it,  while  cheered  by  the  animating  assurance,  that  if 
we  suffer  with  Him  [Christ,]  we  ^hall  also  reign  with  Him. 

While  speaking  of  sacrifices,  I  should  not  omit  to  suggest,  that 
in  view  of  the  self-denials  and  trials  incident  to  his  work,  hope  is  an 
important  element  in  the  missionary's  character.  It  is  indeed  a 
cardinal  christian  grace,  in  believers  in  general, — placed  between 
faith  and  charity  by  an  apostle.  But  it  is  preeminently  indispensa- 
ble, in  the  foreign  laborer,  who  would  be  happy  and  successful,  in 
his  arduous  undertaking.  No  doubting  Thomas  ought  ever  to  be 
sent  into  the  field,  to  hang  as  a  mill-stone  upon  the  necks  of  his 
sufficiently  burdened  brethren,  magnifying  difficulties,  and  creating 
the  discouragements  which  he  fancies  to  exist.  The  missionary 
must  be  disposed  habitually  to  rejoice  in  hope,  as  well  as  be  patient 
in  tribulation  and  instant  in  prayer.  Not  that  he  need  be,  or  should 
be,  unduly  sanguine  in  his  expectations.  In  medio  tutissimus  ibis; 
safety  lies  between  the  two.  He  must  expect  great  things,  for 
Christ's  kingdom — at  least  hope  for  them — or  he  will  never  attempt 
great  things. 

The  state  and  prospects  of  our  mission  to  the  Nestorians  are  in- 


SCHOOLS  PKOGEESS  THE  PRESS. 


497 


creasingly  encouraging.  We  have  multiplied  village-schools,  from 
time  to  time,  as  teachers  have  become  qualified  in  our  seminary,  to 
the  utmost  extent  of  our  pecuniary  means.  These  schools  are  novt^ 
about  twenty  in  number,  besides  the  seminary  and  female  boarding- 
school,  all  of  which  have,  from  their  commencement,  been  in  a 
flourishing  condition.  They  contain  about  five  hundred  scholars  ; 
and  it  is  delightful  to  mark  the  progress  of  these  scholars,  where, 
a  few  years  ago,  no  schools  existed, — to  see  them  gradually  rise,  in 
the  brief  course  of  even  the  imperfect  education  which  we  are  able 
to  furnish  them,  from  the  rude,  ignorant,  squalid  children,  first  col- 
lected, up  to  the  comparatively  intelligent  young  men,  like  plants 
grown  up  in  their  youth,  and  daughters,  as  corner-stones,  polished 
after  the  similitude  of  a  palace;  and  yet  more  delightful,  to  mark 
their  rapid  progress  in  religious  knowledge,  their  increased  atten- 
tion to  eternal  things,  and  the  hopeful  conversion  of  here  and  there 
one  from  the  power  and  bondage  of  sin,  to  the  love  and  service  of  the 
living  God.  Our  educational  efforts  hold  out  the  cheering  prospect,  in 
conne.xion  with  our  other  labors,  of  furnishing  the  Nestorians  with 
an  intelligent  and  pious  ministry;  and  with  their  aid,  of  gradually 
raising  the  whole  mass  to  an  intelligent  and  virtuous  people. 

It  is  but  a  little  more  than  two  years  since  the  arrival  of  our 
press,  and  the  commencement  of  printing  among  the  Nestorians. 
The  power  of  this  mighty  agency  can  never  be  told,  especially  in 
its  operations  in  a  benig'hted  land.  The  press  has  sometimes  been 
called  the  modern,  gift  of  tongues.  It  is  so;  but  is  also  much  more. 
It  is  the  gift  of  tongues  stereotyped.  Instead  of  the  ephemeral  unc- 
tion of  a  Pentecostal  occasion,  by  which  every  man  was  made  to 
hear  of  the  wonderful  works  of  God  in  his  own  language,  it  gives  to 
them  all  the  permanent  record  of  those  wonderful  works,  to  be  read 
and  re-read,  and  transmitted  to  successive  generations.  And  in- 
stead of  being  limited  to  Jerusalem,  or  carried  to  their  respective 
countries,  by  the  living  voice  of  all  those  Parthians  and  Medes  and 
dwellers  in  Mesopotamia,  as  was  the  gospel  originally  conveyed, 
the  press  has  the  power  of  ubiquity.  The  same  organ  proclaims 
the  truth,  not  in  one  country,  nor  two,  nor  ten,  but  on  both  conti- 
nents, and  in  all  lands;  and  in  our  day,  almost  simultaneously.  I 
hardly  need  say,  that  our  printing  establishment,  under  the  able  and 
efficient  management  of  Mr.  Breath,  promises  unspeakable  blessings 
to  the  Nestorians;  and  while  it  is  like  a  tree  of  life  to  that  people 
in  particular,  some  of  its  leaves  will  not  fail  to  prove  a  healing  to 
the  other  nations  also  of  those  benighted  regions,  that  are  impor- 
tuning us  to  make  books  for  them,  as  well  as  for  the  native  Chris- 
tians. In  connexion  with  my  other  labors,  I  have  commonly  spent 
a  part  of  each  day  in  the  work  of  translation,  and  have  thus  been 
enabled  to  complete  a  version  of  the  New  Testament,  and  some 
smaller  works  for  our  schools.  Parts  of  the  New  Testai^ent  are 
already  printed,  and  we  hope  erelong  to  have  the  whole  in  free  cir- 
culation, in  our  schools  and  among  the  people.    Several  Tracts,  pre- 


498  PREACHrNC  IN  THE  fTESTORlAN-  CHURCHES. 


pared  by  different  members  of  our  mission,  are  also  dropping  from 
the  press  as  the  rain,  and  their  speech  distilling  as  the  dew.  Dur- 
ing my  visit  in  the  United  States,  I  have  superintended  the  pre- 
paration of  models  for  a  new  font  of  Syriac  type,  which  Mr.  Hallock 
is  now  successfully  engaged  in  casting,  and  which  cannot  fail 
greatly  to  facilitate  our  printing  operations. 

But  the  roost  interesting  department  of  our  labors,  is  our  preach- 
ing the  gospel  in  the  Nestorian  churclies,  as  already  noticed.  The 
scene  is  deeply  interesting,  as  we  take  our  places  in  those  plain, 
venerable  churches,  that  point  us  back  so  directly  to  early  times, 
perhaps  to  apostolic  labors — a  Nestorian  bishop  standing  on  one 
hand,  and  a  priest  on  the  other,  and  a  congregation,  seated  upon 
their  coarse  mats,  or  on  the  simple  earth-floor,  crowded  shoulder  to 
shoulder,  and  listening  to  the  words  of  life,  as  they  fall  from  the 
speaker's  lips,  with  an  eagerness  of  countenance,  that  would  almost 
loose  the  tongues  of  those  of  our  mission,  who  had  not  yet  learned 
their  language,  and  inspire  them  with  the  power  of  utterance.  It 
is  always  an  unspeakable  privilege  to  preach  the  gospel  of  salvation; 
but  peculiarly  so,  in  such  circumstances.  Never  have  I  addressed 
audiences  elsewhere,  respecting  which,  it  might  apparently  with  so 
much  truth  be  said,  that  they  received  the  word  with  gladness. 

Some  of  the  native  clergy,  who  have  been  a  considerable  time 
under  the  influence  of  our  mission,  are  becoming  themselves  very 
able  and  faithful  preachers  of  the  gospel.  Often  have  I  heard  them 
address  their  people,  with  a  solemnity  and  power,  which  we  asso- 
ciate with  the  preaching  of  apostles.  The  earnest,  moving  voice 
of  priests  Abraham,  Durika  and  Yohannan,  who  are  in  middle  life, 
and  the  less  pungent,  but  affectingly  serious  and  tremulous  tones  of 
the  venerable  Mar  Eiias,  urging  their  people  to  repentance  and  sal- 
vation, are  so  vivid  in  my  recollection,  as  to  seem  often  to  be  still 
sounding  in  my  ears !  They,  and  a  few  others  of  the  clergy,  go 
out  not  only  in  company  with  the  missionaries,  but  alone  also,  and 
address  other  congregations  on  the  Sabbath. 

The  attendance  on  our  preaching,  during  the  winter  and  spring 
previous  to  my  leaving  the  field,  was  full,  and  a  deep  solemnity 
pervaded  the  assemblies.  Indeed,  an  unwonted  interest,  on  the 
subject  of  religion,  appeared  to  be  awakened  and  extending  itself 
throughout  the  whole  province  of  Oroomiah.  The  indications  that 
the  B.oly  Spirit  was  verily  in  the  midst  of  us,  and  around  us,  were 
clear  and  often  very  impressive, — ^not  in  the  thunder,  nor  the  whirl- 
wind, nor  the  earthquake;  but  in  the  still,  small  voice,  that  con- 
vinced many  of  their  sins  and  their  need  of  a  Saviour,  and  led  some 
to  Christ,  to  the  saving  of  their  souls. 

Such  was  the  state  of  our  mission,  when  I  reluctantly  left  the 
field,  more  than  a  year  ago,  on  account  of  the  impaired  health  of 
Mrs.  Perkins.  Many  of  the  nominal  Christians,  who,  when  I  went 
among  them,  about  nine  years  since,  found  such  ready  apologies 
for  their  sins  and  immoralities,  in  their  depressed  political  condition^ 


CHANGE  PROSPECTS  MOUNTAIN  NESTOBANS.  499 


now  as  readily  turn  the  scale  against  themselves,  recognizing  in  the 
rigor  of  their  bondage,  the  hand  of  a  kind  heavenly  Father,  scourg- 
ing (hem  for  their  backslidings,  and  seeking  to  reclaim  and  save 
them.  The  church  that  was  dead,  while  it  had  a  name  to  live,  is 
beginning  to  awake,  and  arise  into  life.  The  great  valley  which 
was  full  of  bones,  very  many  and  dry,  is  beginning  to  feel  the 
quickening  power  of  the  breath  of  Jehovah.  Bone  is  coming  to  its 
bone,  and  the  ghastly,  lifeless  skeleton  begins  to  be  invested  with 
flesh — with  spiritual  comeliness  and  vitality.  In  a  word,  the  Lord 
is  moving,  through  the  agency  of  our  mission,  and  by  the  influence 
of  his  Spirit,  upon  the  entire  body  of  the  Nestorians  of  Oroomiah, 
a  population  of  between  thirty  and  forty  thousand,  waking  them  to 
thought  and  reflection,  and  a  work,  which  may,  in  a  certain  and  in- 
teresting sense,  be  called,  a  revival  of  religion,  still  and  gradual,  but 
deep  and  general,  is  in  progress  among  them,  which  promises  to 
make  them  again  a  people  whose  God  is  the  Lord.  A  verdant 
oasis  has  thus  suddenly  sprung  up  around  us,  in  the  midst  of  that 
great  moral  wilderness,  as  yet  indeed  small,  but  bidding  fair  rapidly 
to  extend,  until  it  shall  cause  the  whole  mighty  desert  to  bud  and 
blossom  as  the  rose  ! 

1  anticipate  such  a  result,  as  I  have  before  suggested,  and  at  no 
very  distant  period, — not  by  any  human  might  or  power,  nor  by 
miracles,  strictly  so  called;  but  by,  "my  Spirit,  saith  the  Lord  ;"  by 
the  promised,  and  to  some  extent,  the  already  vouchsafed,  blessing 
of  Jehovah,  on  the  humble  efforts  which  American  ^Christians  are 
putting  forth  for  the  revival  of  religion  among  the  Nestorians.  Pure 
religion  once  revived  among  the  remnant  of  that  ancient  raissiona- 
ry  church — situated  as  it  is  in  the  centre  of  Muhammedan  domin- 
ion and  far  toward  the  centre  of  benighted  Asia,  and  still  possessing, 
as  it  does,  rare  native  capabilities,  as  well  as  such  felicity  of  loca- 
tion, for  the  eflfective  renewal  of  its  missionary  efforts,  and  it  must 
be  most  emphatically  a  city  set  on  a  hill  whose  light  can  never  be 
hid.  It  must  shed  forth  such  a  flood  of  celestial  radiance  as  shall 
scatter  the  thick  clouds  and  sweep  away  the  mighty  barriers  of  Mu- 
hammedan and  Papal  abominations,  that  have  so  long  hedged  them 
in  and  lowered  over  them,  and  send  forth  hosts  of  heralds  of  the 
gospel,  of  a  stamp  so  primitive  as  shall  soon  ring  the  joyful  sound 
over  the  mountains  and  plains  and  deserts,  and  through  the  valleys, 
of  their  own  benighted  contment,  and  aid  efficiently  in  speeding  its 
flight  through  all  the  world. 

The  success  of  the  branch  of  our  mission  to  the  Nestorians  of 
Koordistan,  is  at  present  naturally  regarded  as  somewhai;  problemati- 
cal, alike  from  the  peculiarities  of  the  country,  the  character  of  the 
people,  and  the  existing  disturbances  arising  from  the  efforts  of  the 
Turkish  government  to  subject  those  wild  mountain  tribes.  First 
excited  hopes,  in  relation  to  such  fields,  are  usually  subject  to  a  mea- 
sure of  chastening,  as  has  been  the  case  with  the  Zulus  of  South 
Africa,  the  Druses  of  Mt.  Lebanon,  and  many  of  our  western  In- 


500 


INDEPENDENCE  COMPARISON  HYMN. 


dians.  The  mountain  Nestorians  necessarily  present  a  much  more 
precarious  and  less  feasible  missionary  field,  than  those  of  Persia, 
who  dwell  in  a  smooth,  fertile  country,  are  fixed  in  their  habits,  com- 
paratively civilized  in  their  character,  and  live  under  a  regular  sys- 
tem of  government. 

There  is,  however,  a  charm  in  the  word,  independence,  especially 
to  a  republican  ear, — and  a  peculiar  charm,  when  the  term  is  ap- 
plied to  nominal  Christians  in  a  Mohammedan  land.  And  it  is,  in- 
deed, wonderfully  interesting,  that  a  portion  of  the  mountain  Nes- 
torians have  so  long  maintained  a  species  of  independence  among 
savage  Muhammedans ;  nor  less  so,  that  they  have  equally  resisted 
the  encroachments  of  wily  Papal  foes,  and  retained  their  reverence 
for  the  Bible  and  the  simplicity  of  their  religious  forms  and  opinions, 
as  well  as  their  political  freedom.  A  comparison  of  these  Nestori- 
ans with  the  Watdenses  is  perfectly  natural,  nor  is  it,  in  some  re- 
spects, improper,  though  the  former  never  probably  possessed  the 
spirituality  of  the  latter.  And  we  are  not  the  only  ones  who  love  to 
fancy  the  wild  cliffs  of  Koordistan,  as  reverberating  with  the  sweet 
and  "thrilling  notes  that  purport  to  have  echoed  through  the  valleys  of 
Piedmont. 


"THANKS  BE  TO  GOD  FOR  THE  MOUNTAINS.* 

For  the  strength  of  the  hills  we  bless  Thee, 

Our  God,  our  fathers'  God  : 
Thou  hast  made  thy  children  mighty,. 
By  the  touch  of  the  mountain  sod  : 
Thou  hast  fixed  our  ark  of  refuge, 
Where  the  spoiler's  feet  ne'er  trod  ; 

For  the  strength  of  the  hills  we  bless  Thee, 

Our  God,  our  fathers'  God. 

We  are  watchers  of  a  beacon, 

Whose  light  must  never  die  : 
We  are  guardians  of  an  altar, 
'Midst  the  silence  of  the  sky  ; 
The  rocks  yield  founts  of  courage ; 
Struck  forth  as  by  thy  rod  ; 

For  the  strength  of  the  hills  we  bless  Thee, 

Our  God,  our  fathers'  God. 

For  the  dark  resounding  caverns, 

Where  thy  still  small  -voice  is  heard  ; 
For  the  strong  pines  of  the  forest, 
That  by  thy  strength  is  stirred  ; 
For  the  storm  on  whose  free  pinions, 
Thy  Spirit  walks  abroad  ; 

For  the  strength  of  the  hills  we  bless  Thee, 

Our  God,  our  fathers'  God. 


*  Hymn  of  the  Vaudois  mountaineers,  in  times  of  persecution. — Hewitt's 
Book  of  the  Seasons. 


IMPORT  OF  THEIR  INDEPENDENCE  NEW  ERA. 


501 


The  royal  eagle  darteth, 

On  his  quarry  from  the  heights  ; 
And  the  stag  that  knows  no  master. 
Seeks  there  his  wild  delights ; 
But  we  for  thy  communion, 
Have  sought  the  mountain  sod ; 

For  the  strength  of  the  hills  we  bless  Thee, 

Our  God,  our  fathers'  God. 

The  banner  of  the  chieftain, 

Far,  far  below  us  waves ; 
The  war-horse  of  the  spearman. 
Cannot  reach  our  lofty  caves. 
Thy  dark  clouds  wrap  the  threshhold 
Of  freedom's  last  abode  ; 

For  the  stiength  of  the  hills  we  bless  Thee, 

Our  God,  our  fathers'  God. 

For  the  shadow  of  Tiiy  presence, 

Round  our' camp  of  rock  out-spread; 
For  the  stern  defiles  of  battle, 
Bearing  record  of  our  dead ; 
For  the  snows  and  for  the  torrents; 
For  the  free  hearts'  burial  sod; 

For  the  strength  of  the  hills  we  bless  Thee, 

Our  God,  our  fathers'  God." 

But  we  must  look  at  these  mountain  Nestorians  soberly  and  prac- 
tically, as  well  as  poetically,  would  we  wisely  project,  and  success- 
fully execute,  missionary  efforts  among  them.  The  term,  indepen- 
dent, applied  to  them  in  an  unqualified  manner,  may  be  as  decep- 
tive as  it  is  grateful.  What  then  is  the  real  import  of  their  inde- 
pendence 1  Why,  that  by  the  aid  of  the  rocky  ramparts  that  sur- 
round them,  their  muskets  and  spears  which  they  always  keep  near 
them,  and  their  corresponding  habits  of  fierce,  desperate  daring,  two 
clans  have  for  ages  resisted  the  exaction  of  tribute,  demanded  by  the 
neighboring  Koordish  chiefs,  or  taxes,  by  the  Turkish  government 
within  whose  remote  territorial  limits  they  dwell.  This  desperate 
resistence  has  had  its  day  and  accomplished  its  noble  object.  It  has 
preserved  those  christian  clans,  during  long  ages  of  darkness,  from 
being  trodden  down  by  the  vindictive  Mussulman,  and  decoyed  by 
the  artful  Jesuit.  But  it  is  to  be  admired  m  the  past,  rather  than 
for  the  future.  That  dispensation  is  ready  to  vanish  away,  and  a 
new  era  begins  to  dawn.  And  has  the  pacific  cause  of  Protestant 
missions  anything  to  suffer  in  the  loss  of  such  an  independence  ? 
Are  the  inhabitants  of  New  Zealand  that  remain  independent,  better 
off  than  their  neighbors  who  come  under  the  control,  and  feel  the 
civilizing,  humanizing  influence  of  English  authority  and  English 
institutions  ?  If  the  cases  be  not  foWy  parallel,  the  latter  well  illus- 
trates the  former.  The  savage  Koords  and  the  wild  independent 
Nestorians  are  in  little  danger  of  injury,  by  being  made  to  yield  to 
the  influence  of  a  regular  Muhammedan  government ;  especially,  a 
Miiharamedan  government,  which  is  now  rapidly  passing  through 


502  ADVANTAGES  POLITICAL  COMMOTION. 


a  series  of  mutations,  that,  in  their  progress,  will  shake  to  pieces  the 
whole  existing  fabric,  and  distribute  the  fragments  among  civilized, 
christian  nations. 

The  unsettled  state  of  things  in  Koordistan,  in  connexion  with 
the  wild  character  of  the  country  and  the  people,  may,  for  some 
time,  render  it  difficult  for  missionaries  to  reside  there  ;  and  tempo- 
rary visits  to  the  field  cannot  of  course  accomplish  great  results. 
That  the  ultimate  effect  of  political  commotions  there,  will,  however, 
be,  to  lay  open  a  more  ready  and  safe  way  of  access  to  all  parts  and 
classes  of  that  fearful  country,  there  can  be  little  doubt ;  for  the 
arm  that  subjugates  the  wild,  independent  Nestorians,  will  at  the 
same  time  conquer,  and  in  some  measure,  tame,  the  ferocious  Koords 
in  the  midst  of  whom  they  dwell.  Nor  will  those  nominal  Chris- 
tians be  merely  thus  rendered  more  accessible.  They  will  also  be 
in  a  better  condition  to  be  benefitted  by  missionaries.  We  have, 
at  Oroomiah,  felt  the  advantage,  arising  to  our  work,  from  the  fact 
that  the  docile  Nestorians  there,  are  under  dominion  to  the  Maham- 
medan  powers  that  be.  Our  mission  amon^  them  is  doubtless  far 
more  prosperous,  while  they  are  in  that  dependent  state,  than  it 
would  be,  if  it  were  subject  to  the  unchecked  caprices  of  a  people, 
the  mass  of  whom  are  so  imperfectly  influenced  by  the  spirit  of  the 
gospel.  As  Christianity  shall  be  more  revived  among  them  and  be- 
come a  controlling  principle,  and  the  way  be  thus  prepared.  Provi- 
dence, vye  trust,  will  remove  the  galling  Muhammedan  yoke,  as  no 
longer  needed,  and  make  the  Nestorians  of  Persia  independent,  in 
some  measure,  in  a  political  and  civil  sense,  as  well  as  Christ's 
freemen. 

But  far  more  important  is  it  for  the  defenceless  missionary,  that 
those  wild  mountaineers  should  be  put  and  kept  under  the  restraint 
of  a  regular  government,  alike  that  he  may  reach  the  Nestorians 
with  less  exposure  from  their  savage  Koordish  neighbors,  and  that 
he  may  be  less  subject  than  he  must  be  in  their  present  state,  to 
those  rough,  unreasonable  men  of  the  christian  name,  until  they  shall, 
in  like  manner,  be  imbued  and  softened  under  the  influence  of 
Christianity.  We  may  regard  the  present  disturbances  in  Koordis- 
tan, then,  as  not  fraught  with  much  evil  to  the  prospects  of  the  mis- 
sion to  that  region.  "  I  am  sorry,"  said  a  devoted  friend  of  the 
cause,  "  that  I  ever  had  my  interest  so  excited  for  that  people,  only 
to  be  again  disappointed."  This  interest,  if  ^intelligent  and  found- 
ed in  genuine  zeal,  should  not,  and  need  not,  wane.  Those  frown- 
ing clouds  may  soon  display  a  brighter  bow  of  promise,  than  has 
yet  beckoned  us  to  that  field  ;  they  may  be  merely  gathering  show- 
ers of  mercy,  to  distil  in  richness  upon  its  perishing  inhabitants,  till 
"  the  mountains  shall  flow  down  at  the  presence  of  the  Lord,  to 
make  his  name  known  to  his  adversaries  ;"  till  "  the  mountains" — 
so  proverbial  as  the  seats  of  war  and  wild  ferocity  and  terror,  in  the 
East — "  shall  bring  peace  to  the  people."  Commotions,  there,  as 
elsewhere,  should  at  least  be  regarded,  as  only  that  overturning, 


MISSION  IN  TUKKEY. 


503 


which  is  needed  there  and  elsewhere,  to  prepare  the  way  for  Him 
whose  right  it  is  to  reign.  I  have  learned  to  hope,  far  more  than 
to  fear,  from  political  storms  in  Asia. 

Having  spent  a  few  months  in  Constantinople,  on  my  way  to  Per- 
sia, at  the  time  when  the  religious  interest  first  began  to  appear 
among  the  Armenians  there,  I  naturally  visited  that  field,  with  pe- 
culiar interest,  on  my  return.  I  had  expected  to  find  great  and 
pleasing  changes,  that  had  ocvcurred  in  the  interval ;  but  my  antici- 
pations were  far  more  than  realized.  During-  iny  long  absence,  a 
wonderful  advance,  notwithstanding  all  the  storms  which  the  mis- 
sion has  encountered  and  perhaps  partly  in  consequence  of  them, 
had  been  made  in  the  progress  of  the  gospel. 

I  have  mentioned  the  conflagrations  in  that  great  city,  which,  in 
population,  almost  rivals  the  British  metropolis.  It  often  happens, 
during  these  conflagrations,  that  while  the  flames  are  spreading 
them.selves  rapidly  and  irresistibly  in  unbroken  sheets,  in  all  direc- 
tions, a  burning  cinder,  or  shaving,  borne  upward  and  onward,  by 
the  rising  gust  that  is  created  by  the  flames,  is  wafted  silently  away, 
drops  unperceived  at  some  distant  point,  and  kindles  a  new  fire 
there,  similar  to  the  desolating  centre  from  which  it  came.  And 
there  is  something  quite  analogous  to  this,  in  the  religious  phe- 
nomena, that  are  now  presented  in  Constantinople  and  the  surround- 
ing region.  By  the  blessing  of  God,  on  the  labors  of  his  faithful 
missionaries,  a  moral  illumination  is  kindled  in  that  great  and  wick- 
ed metropolis,  that  is  blazing  up  to  heaven  and  spreading  rapidly 
to  the  remotest  parts  of  the  empire.  Sometimes,  a  Tract  or  Bible, 
like  the  lighted  shaving,  flies  away  from  that  city,  as  on  the  wings 
of  the  wind  or  of  the  birds  of  the  air,  and  falls  unobserved  in  some 
distant  place,  and  soon  kindles  another  moral  conflagration,  which 
becomes  itself  the  source  of  others  still  and  so  on. 

An  illustration  of  these  remarks  is  furnished,  in  the  history  of  a 
copy  of  the  Tract,  entitled  the  Dairyman's  Daughter,  dropped,  some 
years  ago,  by  the  Rev.  Wm.  Goodell,  in  the  town  of  Nicomedia,  as 
he  was  travelling  through  the  place,  where  he  knew  nobody  and 
was  known  to  no  one.  The  little  Tract  was  read;  and  under  the 
divine  blessing  on  the  humble  instrumentality,  it  was  made  the 
means  of  effecting  a  change  so  wonderful,  in  that  benighted  place, 
that  when  Nicomedia  was  visited,  several  years  afterward,  by  another 
member  of  the  mission  at  the  Turkish  capital,  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  enlightened,  spiritual  Christians  were  found  there,  who  had 
never  before  met  with  a  missionary.  And  now  Nicomedia  itself 
has  become  a.  radiant  point,  from  which  the  light  of  truth  is  rapidly 
emanating  in  diflferent  directions,  to  aid  in  illumining  that  Muham- 
medan  empire.  The  mission  stations  at  Broosa,  Trebizond  and 
Erzroom  are  also  re-kindling  the  lamps  of  Christianity  which  had 
gone  out,  and  the  truth  is  beginning  to  radiate  from  them  also,  as 
centres,  to  disperse  the  deep  darkness  of  surrounding  regions.  Many 
ofithe  Armenian  Christians  are  merchants — eminently  a  locomotive 


504 


GENERAX.  ASPECTS  : 


■STEAM  1 


COMMERCE. 


people,  found  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  those  of  different  and  distant 
regions  always  having,  at  the  same  time,  nciuch  intercourse  with 
each  other.  This  characteristic  is  highly  favorable  to  the  rapid  and 
extensive  diffusion  of  religious  influence  in  connexion  with  the  la- 
bors of  the  missionaries. 

There  are  encouraging  aspects  in  the  Providence  of  God,  affect- 
ing, at  the  present  time,  the  general  cause  of  truth  in  the  East,  which 
give  to  the  revival  of  religion,  now  in  progress  among  the  oriental 
churches,  a  peculiar  interest  and  importance, — aspects,  which  indi- 
cate another  branch  of  the  divine  working,  but  running  parallel 
with  the  missionary  enterprise,  and  tending  to  the  same  grand  con- 
summation, the  conversion  of  the  world. 

To  the  extension  of  the  power  of  steam,  since  our  mission  was 
commenced,  by  which  the  distance  is  almost  annihilated,  between 
Europe — and  indeed  between  America — and  the  remote  ports  of 
the  Black  Sea,  1  have  already  alluded.  The  influence  of  this  exten- 
sion of  steam-power  is  amazing,  in  preparing  the  way  for  the  spread 
of  the  gospel,  by  bringing  different  and  distant  nations  into  near 
and  familiar  proximity,  and  thus  breaking  down  their  national  and 
sectional  prejudices,  and  in  the  intercommunication  and  rapid  dif- 
fusion of  light  and  general  intelligence. 

Beyond  the  shores  of  that  distant  sea,  the  steamer  even  cannot 
push  its  way.  It  cannot  scale  those  lofty  mountains,  whose  snow- 
capped summits  pierce  and  peer  above  the  clouds.  But  ever  sleep- 
less, restless,  advancing  commerce  can,  and  does,  cross  those  moun- 
tains. And  though  it  cannot  Zewc^  them,  it  can  smooth  the  way 
over  them.  When  I  went  to  Persia,  about  nine  years  ago,  13,000 
caravan  horses  and  mules  were  accustomed  to  pass  annually  on  the 
route  which  we  travelled  between  Trebizond  and  Erzroom ;  i.  e. 
that  number  of  loads  was  then  the  annual  aggregate  of  caravan 
travel.  But  on  our  return,  the  number  had  doubled, — 26,000  in- 
stead of  13,000,  as  the  English  consul  at  Trebizond  informed  me, 
now  annually  travelling  that  same  route.  And  the  adamantine 
ledges  of  the  rocky  passes  had  evidently  been  worn  down  and 
smoothed,  and  the  road  essentially  improved,  in  the  iniervaT,  by  the 
incessant  attrition  of  the  hoofs  of  beasts  of  burden,  in  so  vast  an 
amount  of  travel, — so  much  so,  that  rude  wheel-carriages  are  be- 
ginning to  take  the  place  of  the  backs  of  animals,  as  the  vehicles  of 
merchandize,  over  a  part  of  the  way,  and  the  prospect  is,  that  they 
will  at  length  be  able  to  run  the  whole  of  that  formidable  route. 

But  how  much  more  important  an  effect  of  this  rapid  increase  of 
commerce,  in  that  direction,  is  the  tide  of  light  and  civilization, 
which  it  is  rolling  into  the  dark  empires  beyond  those  mountains !  By 
these  mighty  strides  of  commerce,  the  Earth,  in  the  language  of 
Scripture,  is  verily  helping  the  woman  ; — in  other  words,  the  hand 
of  the  Lord,  in  controlling  and  directing  the  current  of  secular  ad- 
venture and  enterprise,  is  opening  the  way,  for  the  introduction  and 
triumph  of  the  gospel,  in  all  the  world,  but  particularly,  in  western 


VICIOUS  INFLUENCE  INNOVA.TIONS. 


505 


and  central  Asia,  in  a  manner  too  wonderful  to  be  comprehended 
or  hardly  believed,  except  by  the  astonished  beholders  who  person- 
ally  observe  the  surprising  phenomena! 

Not  that  this  flood  of  commerce,  which  is  thus  rolling  eastward, 
is  entirely  unalloyed.  The  vicious  iiifluencc  of  civilized  nations, 
like  the  frogs  of  Egypt,  is  every  where.  In  the  heart  of  Turkey, 
the  missionary  sees  the  children  of  peasants,  playing  briskly  with 
European  cards,  where  not  one  child  in  perhaps  ten  thousand  knows 
a  letter  of  any  language.  And  New  England  Rum,  is  still  almost 
the  only  commercial  representative  with  which  our  christian,  Pro- 
testant country,  has  ever  yet  honored  the  markets  of  distant,  be- 
nighted, Muhammedan  Persia!  But  the  overruling  hand  of  the 
Lord  can,  and  does,  cause  the  good  greatly  to  preponderate  over  the 
evil.  The  swelling  tide  of  trade  and  adventure,  on  which  this  liquid 
poison  and  demoralizing  practices  steal  their  passage,  pours  into 
the  East  far  more  light  than  darkness ;  far  more  blessings  than 
curses;  and  with  all  its  attendant  evils,  commerce  is  rapidly  has- 
tening the  day,  when  holiness  to  the  Lord  shall  be  written  on  all 
the  bells  of  its  caravan  horses.  And  is  it  by  a  mere  figure,  that  the 
extending  rail-roads  of  Europe  and  America — a  mode  of  communi- 
cation which  is  destined  to  pervade  the  world — point  us  to  the  pre- 
dicted period,  when  "every  valley  shall  be  filled  and  every  moun- 
tain and  hill  shall  be  brought  low,  and  the  crooked  shall  be  made 
strait,  and  the  rough  ways  shall  be  made  smooth;  and  all  flesh  shall 
see  the  salvation  of  God,"— a  moral  consummation  which,  as  mat- 
ter of  fact,  who  can  doubt  that  these  rail-roads  are  rapidly  hastening  ! 

The  increasing  disposition  in  Asiatics  to  adopt  European  cus- 
toms and  obtain  European  knowledge,  is  another  highly  encouraging 
aspect  of  things  in  the  East.  Borne  onward  by  this  general  current 
of  light  and  improvement,  the  Persian  monarch,  not  long  ago,  ex- 
changed the  flowing  robes  of  his  oriental  costume,  for  the  less  grace- 
ful, but  more  manly,  tight  coat  and  pantaloons,  which  he  once  as 
heartily  scorned  as  he  did  the  despised  European  who  wore  them  ; 
and  the  beard,  which,  on  the  face  of  his  predecessor,  being  of  ex- 
traordinary length,  was  reverently  styled,  "  the  glory  of  the  empire," 
and  upon  which  he  would  once  have  placed  a  value  scarcely  second 
to  that  of  his  crown,  is  now  clipped  to  his  chin;  and,  as  we  have 
remarked,  he  requires  most  of  his  subjects  who  enter  the  military 
profession,  or  enjoy  the  emoluments  of  office,  to  follow  his  example 
in  these  innovations.  I  attach  no  importance  to  such  changes  of 
custom  and  costume,  being,  as  I  conceive,  things  quite  indifferent 
in  themselves,  except  as  they  strongly  indicate  the  decline  of  Mu- 
hammedan and  Eastern  prejudice,  and  the  rapid  opening  of  facilities 
for  the  spread  of  the  gospel. 

I  have  mentioned  our  MCihammedan  school,  and  the  reasons  for 
it.    I  may  in  this  connexion  insert  a  short  letter,  which  I  have  re- 
ceived since  I  left  Orooraiah,  from  one  of  the  pupils.    He  is  the  son 
of  one  of  the  wealthiest  and  highest  nobles  of  that  city,  a  nephew 
64 


506 


NOTE  DECLINE  OF  MUHAMMEDISM. 


of  the  governor;  and  though  a  small  boy,  is  himself  a  Khan;  and 
1  may  add,  that  he  is  as  bright  a  scholar  and  fine  a  boy,  as  I  ever  in- 
structed in  any  land.  As  he  had  studied  our  language  but  about 
a  year  and  a  half,  and  this  note  is  one  of  his  early  attempts  at  writ- 
ing it,  its  imperfect  style  will  of  course  be  excused. 

"OroomiaJi,  Aug.  5,  1841. 

My  Dear  Sir, 

How  is  your  health,  in  this  month  ?  I  wish  to  write  a  letter  in 
every  month,  but  the  casid  (foot-messenger)  has  not  come  from  Ta- 
breez  yet.  I  hope  the  Koords  did  you  no  harm  on  the  way,  and 
that  you  have  arrived  at  Constantinople,  and  that  you  will  go  safely 
across  the  ocean,  and  God  will  keep  you.  We  read  and  learn  in 
school  with  doctor  Wright,  and  sometimes  talk  with  Mr.  Breath. 
It  is  necessary  for  me  to  speak  the  English  language;  for  perhaps, 
after  two  or  three  years,  I  may  go  to  England  or  to  America. 

Our  Moollah*  wished  rae  to  find  if  it  was  forbidden  in  the  gos- 
pel, to  drink  wine.    We  looked  in  the  gospel,  translated  into  the 
Persian  language,  and  we  found  it  written  in  1  Corinthians  6:  10, 
that  "no  drunkard  shall  inherit  the  kingdom  of  God." 
I  send  you  my  Dooa  Selam  (prayerful  salutation). 

Your  friend  very  truly, 
(Signed)  Hassan  Ali  Khan." 

The  promise  of  good,  which  missionary  instruction,  to  Muham- 
medan  youth,  of  this  boy's  standing  and  prospects,  holds  out  for  Per- 
sia, can  be  fully  understood,  only  by  those  who  have  seen  the  mighty 
barriers  of  prejudice  existing  against  the  christian  religion  there, 
which  must  be  removed  before  the  gospel  can  triumph  in  that  coun- 
try, and  which  such  preparatory  means  alone  can  be  expected  suc- 
cessfully to  undermine.  And  when  bigotted  Moollahs  apply  thus  to 
our  scholars,  for  proof-texts  from  the  gospel,  against  prevalent  vices, 
is  there  not  reason  to  hope  that  their  prejudices  are  already  begin- 
ning to  yield?  Yes;  Muhammedism,  proud,  exclusive,  corrupt, 
revengeful  and  bloody,  as  it  is,  is  tottering  in  its  dotage,  and  ready 
to  fall.  Its  walls,  high  as  heaven,  that  have  so  long  bid  defiance  to 
every  assault,  the  silent  power  of  a  holy  example,  reflected  from  the 
reformed  lives  and  elevated  characters  of  the  nominal  Christians, 
the  prayer  of  faith  and  the  labors  of  love,  will  gradually  shake  to  the 
ground.  Nor  need  we  apprehend  rending  convulsions  from  its  fall. 
Like  a  mighty  polar  iceberg,  breaking  away  from  its  dreary  moorings 
and  floating  gently  downward  into  a  kindlier  zone,  so  Muhammedism, 
amid  the  growing  light  and  warmth  of  civilization  and  Christianity, 
that  are  kindled  up  around  it,  is  silently  and  harmlessly  melting 
away  !  Bo  we  doubt  this  ?  Look  at  the  Muhammedan  monarchs 
of  the  bloody  empires  of  Turkey  and  Persia,  jointly  laying  aside  their 


•*  The  Moollah,  it  will  be  recollected,  is  the  Muhammedan  priest. 


BRITISH  INFLUENCE  PIOUS  OFFICERS. 


507 


swords,  and  referring  their  political  disputes  to  christian  govern- 
ments for  arbitration ! 

The  extension  of  British  political  influence  and  power  in  Asia, 
is  another  sign  of  the  times,  auguring  most  auspiciously  for  the 
spread  of  the  gospel  over  that  continent.  I  say  this,  not  of  course 
as  a  party  politician,  but  as  a  christian  philanthropist  and  a  mis- 
sionary, who  has  had  abundant  opportunity  to  observe  and  iofeel 
the  effect  of  British  influence  in  the  East.  Wherever  English 
power  prevails  in  Asia,  it  is,  in  general,  no  more  certain,  that  there, 
the  rod  of  oppression  is  broken,  the  captive  liberated,  and  the  con- 
dition and  prospects  of  the  inhabitants  vastly  meliorated,  than  that 
there  the  Protestant  missionary — and  especially,  the  Amtrican  mis- 
sionary— has  an  unfailing  pledge  of  protection,  encouragement  and 
aid,  in  his  object  and  labors ;  and  there  only  has  he  any  such  sure 
and  permanent  security.  To  the  eye  of  the  christian  observer,  it  is 
clearly  not  fortuitous  chance,  nor  sagacity  in  the  game  of  politics, 
nor  military  skill  or  prowess,  merely  nor  mainly,  that  is  placing  so 
much  of  Asia  under  British  control.  It  is  the  hand  of  Providence — 
the  right  arm  of  the  God  of  missions. 

It  is  a  most  interesting  circumstance,  that,  among  the  English 
who  are  scattered  through  the  East,  there  is  a  large  number  of  de- 
votedly pious  men;  and  among  them,  many  military  and  civil  offi- 
cers of  high  standing,  who  are  not  ashamed  to  be  known  as  the 
humble  servants  of  God,  as  well  as  the  faithful  servants  of  their 
country.  A  late  British  envoy  to  the  court  of  Herat,  in  East  Per- 
sia, was  Col.  Todd,  who  was  previously  some  time  in  Persia.  He 
is  a  devout  Christian,  and  has  repeatedly  cheered  us  with  his 
counsels  and  letters.  Col.  Stoddart,  another  pious  officer,  was  en- 
voy to  the  yet  more  distant  court  of  Bokhara,  which  is  one  of  the 
strongest  holds  of  the  religion  of  the  False  Prophet,  and  one  of  the 
most  inaccessible  points  and  least  known  to  Europeans,  in  all  central 
Asia.  Muhammedan  bigotry,  on  his  first  arrival  there,  cast  him 
into  prison,  and,  as  it  is  reported,  submitted  to  him  the  fearful  al- 
ternative, of  conversion  to  that  bloody  faith,  or  a  violent  death. 
He,  however,  who  shut  the  lions'  mouths,  that  they  should  not  harm 
Daniel  in  their  den,  preserved  this  his  servant,  also,  unharmed 
amid  the  perils  of  his  distant  and  gloomy  confinement;  and  under 
the  pressure  of  his  own  trials,  Col.  Stoddart  forgot  not  us  and  our 
labors  in  Persia;  but  still  cheered  us  with  fraternal  epistles. 

Need  I  say  that  such  English  officers — and  scores  of  them — yes, 
many  scores,  there  are — scattered  over  the  wild  regions  and  posted 
on  the  high  places  of  benighted  Asia,  are  missionary  pioneers,  rap- 
idly preparing  the  way  for  the  spread  of  the  gospel !  Indeed,  Prov- 
idence seems  to  be  extending  and  strengthening  British  influence  in 
all  parts  of  the  world,  but  especially  in  Asia,  at  the  present  time,  ex- 
-ceptionable  as  is  much  of  its  policy  and  the  character  of  many  of 
its  agents,  yet  as  overruled  by  Providence,  on  the  whole,  as  a  radi- 
ant orb  of  light,  the  protector  of  Protestant  missions  and  the  cham- 


508 


PAPAL  EFFORTS  CHECKED  ^BENEFITS. 


pion  of  pure  Christianity.  It  is  opening  the  proud  gates  of  the  ce- 
lestial empire  itself  to  the  rich  blessings  of  civilization  and  the  ines- 
timable boon  of  Christianity.  May  the  withering  gangrene  of  party 
spirit  never  warp  and  contract  the  noble  views  and  Catholic  policy, 
on  the  subject  of  religion  and  of  missions,  hitherto  pursued  by  En- 
glishmen abroad  !  And  may  favored  America,  never  be  found  slow 
to  emulate  the  father-land,  in  promoting  the  spread  of  the  gospel, — 
this  highest  and  best  of  the  momentous  purposes,  for  wliich  Provi- 
dence has  given  to  the  two  countries  so  exalted  a  place  among  the 
nations. 

The  Providential  interpositions,  that  often  arrest  the  progress  of 
Papal  efforts  in  the  East,  are  also  cheering  signs  of  the  times,  betok- 
ening favor  for  Zion.  To  some  of  these,  I  have  alluded  as  happen- 
ing in  connexion  with  our  mission.  And  while  writing  the  above 
paragraphs,  a  letter  reached  me  from  a  missionary  fellow-laborer, 
announcing  the  fact,  that  the  Shah  of  Persia  had  ordered  all  the 
Papal  emissaries,  in  his  dominions,  to  leave  the  empire.  The  fol- 
lowing is  an  extract  from  that  letter;  "The  Papal  missionaries,  it 
seems,  have  been  all  ordered  out  of  Persia  by  the  Shah.  It  is  said, 
that  this  has  been  done,  in  consequence  of  the  complaints  of  the  Ar- 
menians against  them,  through  the  Russian  ambassador,  or  rather 
through  the  Catholocos  at  Echmiadzen,  and  the  Russian  government. 
It  remains  to  be  seen  what  the  French  government  will  do  in  the 
matter.  Q-uery — will  she  think  it  best  to  send  an  army  to  take  ven- 
geance on  the  Persian  king,  and  compel  him  to  pay  a  handsome 
fine,  for  daring  to  rule  in  his  own  dominions,  as  she  did  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands  ?" 

It  is  wonderful  that  those  agents  of  the  "  man  of  sin,"  should  thus 
be  arrested  in  their  career  of  scattering  tares,  by  the  influence  of  a 
Muhammedan  government.  If  it  be  an  instance  of  Satan  divided 
against  Satan,  it  at  least  points  us  to  the  grateful  certainty,  that  his 
kingdom  will  not  always  stand;  and  it  is  just  as  really  and  clearly 
the  hand  of  the  Lord,  as  though  their  path  had  been  hedged  up  by 
the  armed  angel,  who  stayed  the  beast  of  Balaam.  If  this  royal  or- 
der be  never  executed,  (and  if  it  savor  of  intolerance,  we  would  not 
desire  it  to  be  carried  into  effect,)  it  will  at  least  rebuke  the  arro- 
gance which  provoked  it,  and  tend  to  check  the  oppressive  course 
of  Papal  emissaries  in  those  regions,  in  their  fiery  zeal  to  make  con- 
verts. It  is  worthy  of  remark,  moreover,  that  their  influx  into  Per- 
sia, has  hitherto  turned  out  for  the  furtherance  of  the  gospel ;  and 
the  same  is  true,  in  relation  to  some  other  fields.  We  should,  for 
instance,  never  have  dared,  in  our  lack  of  pecuniary  means,  to  open 
half  of  the  schools  which  are  now  flourishing  among  the  Nestorians, 
had  we  not  been  impelled  to  do  it,  by  the  presence  of  an  enemy, 
who,  on  the  other  hand,  have  succeeded  in  making  very  little  im- 
pression at  Oroomiah.  Protestants  and  their  missionaries,  need  the 
scourge  of  Papacy  to  keep  them  humble,  and  especially,  to  rouse 
them  from  their  slumbers  and  prompt  them  to  higher  and  holier  de- 


ENCOURAGEMENT  MOTIVES. 


509 


votedness,  in  their  Master's  service.  This  important  agency  for 
Zion,  during  the  death-struggles  of  the  system,  Papacy  may  be  des- 
tined by  Providence  to  perform. 

In  view  of  the  general  aspects  in  the  signs  of  the  times,  which  I 
have  mentioned,  and  many  others  of  a  similar  character,  as  well  as 
of  the  success  that  attends  the  laborers  in  the  missionary  fields, 
what  occasion  have  believers  to  thank  God  and  take  courage!  It 
is  not  enough,  however,  that  they  admire  and  acknowledge  what 
God  hath  wrought.  How  imperatively  are  they  called  upon,  at  the 
same  time,  to  inquire  what  he  would  have  them  to  do — what  efforts 
make  and  influence  exert,  in  the  advancement  of  his  kingdom! 
What  infinite  condescension  is  it  on  his  part,  and  how  exalted  the 
honor  and  the  privilege  conferred  on  them,  that  he  permits  them  to 
be  co-workers  with  himself,  in  the  accomplishment  of  the  matchless 
scheme  of  the  world's  salvation !  And  while  he  grants  to  them 
the  privilege,  he  of  course  expects  and  requires  a  prompt  and  will- 
ing cooperation.  The  Lord  is  far  in  advance  of  his  people,  in  the 
great  work,  by  the  movements  of  his  Providence  and  the  bestow- 
ment  of  his  grace.  The  wonderful  political  revolutions  and  civil 
changes  of  our  day,  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  the  general  success  of 
missions,  and  the  copious  effusions  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  vouchsafed  in 
some  cases,  are  sufficient  to  assure  us,  that  God  waits  only  to  be 
properly  inquired  of  by  his  people,  in  fervent  prayer  and  corres- 
ponding exertion,  to  give  to  His  Son  the  heathen  for  an  inheritance 
and  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth  for  a  possession, — to  fill  the  whole 
world  with  the  knowledge  and  glory  of  his  name,  as  the  waters  fill 
the  mighty  deep.  O  that  they  all  had  hearts  to  pray  and  labor,  for 
the  advancement  of  his  kingdom,  as  they  have  opportunity  and  the 
object  demands ;  and  how  soon  would  the  light  of  the  moon  be  as 
the  light  of  the  sun — the  light  of  the  sun  be  seven  fold — and  all  the 
ends  of  the  earth  behold  the  salvation  of  our  God. 


GLOSSARY  or  FOREIGN  WORDS. 


Mlui,  fatiier,  (Syriac),  183. 

JJbha.ht'uha,  Fathers,  i.  e.  their  writings,  16. 

Jibuona,  our  Father,  18. 

^gd,  Master,  (Turkish),  132. 

Jtgirtha,  epistle,  (Syriac),  15. 

jljic-ckai,  bitter  river,  (Turkish),  a  stream  near  Tabreez,  142. 

.Qjcvi,  down,  an  epithet  applied  to  the  Persians  by  the  Soonees,  144. 

MjcmistAri,  down  land,  applied  to  Persia,  by  the  Soonees,  144. 

Jilch  Dentris,  white  sea,  (Turkish),  i.  e.  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  85. 

jSkuld&rcc,  wise  sayings,  a  Nestorian  book,  16. 

Mlbttdch,  of  course,  (Persian),  423. 

Jilcf,  first  letter  in  the  Syriac  alphabet,  183. 

Jilhimdoolcddh,  Thanks  unto  God,  (Arabic),  184. 

midha,  God,  (Syriac),  183. 

Aramaian,  the  ancient  language  of  Syria  and  Mesopotamia,  178. 
Arig,  (ark),  a  citadel,  (Persian),  148. 

£rmcna-Turkish,  the  Turkish  language  written  in  the  Armenian  character,  89. 
^rmjnl.  Pear,  (Turkish),  name  of  a  Greek  village  in  ancient  Pontus,  lOO. 
Arpii-cJiai,  Barley  River,  (Turkish),  a  tributary  of  the  ArrAs,  which  separates 

Turkey  from  a  part  of  Georgia,  123. 
Jirra,  Earth,  (Syriac),  meaning  also,  land,  183. 

Bacth,  second  letter  In  the  Syriac  alphabet,  183. 

Bdhra,  light,  (Syriac),  183. 

Barukln,  marriage  service,  (Syriac),  15,  237. 

BAslc-ilsla,  Upon  my  head,  (Turkish),  an  affirmative  assent,  or  pledge,  169. 
BazAr-giin,  market  day,  (Turkish),  name  of  the  Sabbath, — that  being  the 

public  market  day,  89. 
Bttr,  Bey,  (Turkish  and  Persian),  an  order  of  nobility,  much  higher  in  rank 

in  Turkey  tlian  in  Persia,  1.51. 
Bcyleij,  to  be  sure,  (Persian),  used  also  as  an  interrogatory,  and  for  assent,  and 

strong  asseveration,"-having  many  shades  of  meaning,  423. 
Bhcrimin,  (Syriac),  t)ie  two  books  of  Chronicles,  15. 
Bitmehoee,  (Syriac),  several  books  of  the  Old  Testament,  15. 
Boo)/L/or,  command,  (Turkish);  i.e.  command  me — 1  am  at  your  service;  a 

word  used  in  Turkish  parlance  oftener  than  almost  any  other,  167. 
Brieta,  world,  or  creation,  (modern  Syriac),  183. 
BrSona,  Son,  (modern  Syriac),  12, 183. 

B'shivieed'Alldha,  in  the  name  of  God,  (modern  Syriac),  a  common  oath,  248. 

Caik,  a  small,  light  boat,  used  at  Constantinople,  73. 

Cajavdh,  (Persian),  a  vehicle,  slung  upon  the  sides  of  a  horse,  94. 

Calecdon,  a  Persian  pipe,  in  using  which,  the  smoke  is  made  to  pass  through 

a  vessel  of  water,  154. 
Cnravan-Serdi,  carrican-palace,  (Persian),  a  public  inn,  93,  307. 
Cdsid,  foot-messenger,  (Persian),  341. 
Cdzi  (cadi),  a  justice  of  the  peace,  437. 

CkaK&r-bdrj,  four  towers,  (Persian),  a  celebrated  palace  in  Oroomiali,  270. 


GLOSSARY. 


511 


Chailcr,  rivers,  (Turkish),  name  of  a  village  in  ancient  Pontus,  94. 
Cfidk/i,  tat,  (Turkish),  used  in  salutation,  in  asking- about  the  health,  184. 
Chemdn,  meadow,  or  grassy  land,  261. 

Chemie,  the  term  used  by  the  Persians  to  denote  alchemy,  2%. 
Cheskviek,  a  fountain  ;   from  Ckeslim,  the  eyes  ;  hence,  the  expression, 
B'ckeshm,  upon  my  eyes,  a  strong  pledge,  very  often  repeated  in  Persia,  167. 
Cdrbdn-bierdm,  sacrificial  festival,  451. 
C'drbdn-oldm,  (Turkish),  I  will  be  your  sacrifice,  167. 

DdmcLghiin,  your  palate  or  appetite,  (Turkish, — root  Arabic),  184. 
Desti-IOiod,  autograph,  hand  uf  one's  self,  (Persian),  397. 
Devl6lavnz,  youi  wealth,  or  prosperity,  used  in  compliments,  184. 
Douldh,  fortune  or  wealth,  used  also  as  a  proper  name,  310. 

Een,  this,  (Persian),  the  demonstrative  pronoun  ;  prefixed  to  other  words,  it 

forms  adverbs ;  as,  eenjd,  here,  (Uiis  place),  ^74. 
ELcliie,  ambassador,  a  term  often  applied  by  Orientals  to  other  foreigners, 

also,  as  an  honorary  title,  213. 
Emeer-i-nizdm,  chief  of  the  army,  216,  389,  452. 

Emeer-zdilih,  a  royal  descendant,  one  generation,  or  more,  removed  from  the 
king,  151 . 

Estrangilo,  an  ancient  written  character  of  the  Syriac,  stilJ  used  by  the  Nes- 
torians  for  capital  letters,  11. 

FdlUk,  a  pole  to  which  culprits  are  bound,  to  be  bastinadoed,  437. 
Ferdj-Ldshee,  chief  officer,  231. 

Fez,  the  small  red  cap,  worn  by  all  classes  of  the  Turks,  except  the  priest- 
hood, 116. 
Firm&n,  (Persian),  a  royal  order,  91. 

Firmoosh-khdnd,  house  of  forgetfalness,  a  term  applied  by  the  Persians  to 

freemasonry,  from  mere  resemblance  of  sound,  2D7. 
Fursdkh,  measure  of  distance,  the  ancient  parasang;  usually  reckoned  four 

miles,  but  it  is  probably  nearer  five,  166. 

Gaudor,  infidel,  a  term  of  reproach  applied  by  the  Mahammedans  to  the 

nominal  Christians,  292. 
Gddili,  you  have  come,  or  your  coming ;  with  Kkosh,  welcome,  (Turkish),  184. 
Gizza,  a  Nestorian  book,  containing  prayers  for  Lent,  15. 
Gkoldm,  slave,  or  servant,  (Persian),  applied  particularly  to  couriers,  138. 
Gileedna,  revelation,  (Syriac).  15. 
Gul-dub,  rose-water,  (Persian),  263. 

Hajte,  pilgrim,  i.  e.  to  Mecca,  (Arabic),  89,  143. 

Hakim-bdshee,  chief  physician. 

Hike,  much,  very,  used  adverbially,  (Persian),  271. 

Hudra,  a  prayer-book  of  the  Nestorians,  for  Lord's  day  and  festivals,  15. 

Hv.po-deed.con,  sub-deacon,  an  order  of  the  Nestorian  clergy,  18. 

Jind.m,  a  Turkish  priest;  in  Persia,  a  departed  saint,  101. 

Irdn6e,  a  Persian,  i.  e.  an  inhabitant  of  Irdn,  144. 

Islmat,  the  name  of  a  Nestorian  month,  (February),  207. 

Jacobites,  Monophysite  Syrians,  45,  258. 
Jaldos,  coronation,  201. 
Jikkd,  crown,  (Persian),  201. 

Kaeftiz,  your  health,  (Turkish),  183. 
l{aim  Makd.m,  pillar  of  state,  165. 

Kara-papdk,  black  caps,  a  name  given  to  the  Persians  of  SCildooz,  191. 
Kdslia,  Kaskteslui,  (Syriac),  priest,  literally,  elder,  15. 


512 


GLOSSARY. 


KeUAh,  meat  cut  into  small  pieces  and  roasted  on  spits,  230. 
Kelh/iodiih,  lord  of  a  village,  (Persian),  166. 

Kaklaphu,  caliph,  used  in  Turkey,  as  chief  carpenter  ;  in  Persia,  a  MoollSh 

who  acts  as  a  public  crier;  in  Arabia,  head  of  the  faith,  18. 
Khalat.-pooshan^  putting  on  a  robe,  (Persian),  209. 
Kh&Lisd,  property  of  the  crown,  280. 
Khdn,  Lord,  (Persian),  highest  rank  of  nobility,  114. 
KkAnmn,  Lady,  (Persian^,  feminine  of  Khiin,  295. 
Khardj,  capitation  tax,  280. 
Kfiuli,  good,  (Persian),  271. 
Khosh,  delightsome,  welcome,  cheerful,  184. 
Khoshicba,  number  one  of  the  week,  i.  e.  the  Sabbath,  (Syriac). 
Kileesid,  church,  (Turkish,  from  the  Greek),  308. 
Koek,  fat,  lusty,  (Turkish),  used  in  salutation,  184. 
KrooT,  3.  sum  of  500,000  tomans,  423. 
Kubld-dlem,  centre  of  the  world,  a  title  of  the  Shdh,  421. 

Looiee,  Lotitcs,  a  class  of  ruffians,  259. 
Madrdsseli,  a  school  or  college,  (Persian),  437. 
Mdngdl,  fire-pan,  267. 

Mce&nd,  an  elevated  portion  of  the  stable,  449. 
Meer-kdzdb,  executioner,  (chief  of  butchery),  454 
Mehmdnddr,  a  convoy,  (Persian),  a  guest-man,  478. 
Melpina,  an  old  teacher,  writer,  or  saint,  (Syriac)  318. 
MeharTim,  a  Mtlhamniedan  month,  208. 
Muhasil,  a  sheriff,  (Persian),  267. 
MooUd.li,  a  Persian  priest,  151. 
Mukddddsi,  (Syriac),  a  pilgrim,  (holy  one),  232. 

JVoohdree,  commentary,  lighter,  (Syriac),  16. 

JVoo-rose,  new  year, — literally,  new  day,  (Persian),  207. 

Pr.shkish,  a  present  fi-om  an  inferior  to  a  superior ;   one  from  a  superior  to  an 

inferior,  is  Mndm,  (Persian),  169. 
Pildv,  cooked  rice,  269. 

Raydh^  a  subject,  serf ;  literally, _^ocA:,  86. 

Sddir,  special  imposts,  or  taxes,  281. 

Sdhib,  literally,  owner,  a  term  of  honor,  applied  by  the  Persians  to  foreigners, 

as  Sir,  213. 
Seldm,  peace,  a  common  salutation,  523. 
Shaldr,  city,  (Turkish),  431. 

Takt-rawdn,  a  walking  scat,  Persian  vehicle,  139. 

Yer-elfnasi,  the  earth's  apples — potatoes,  382. 


END. 


Princeton  Theological  Seminary  Libraries 


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DATE  DUE 


HIGHSMITH  #45115 


